CN113584908B - Dyeing and finishing processing technology of T800 stretch fabric based on PBT/PET composite yarn - Google Patents
Dyeing and finishing processing technology of T800 stretch fabric based on PBT/PET composite yarn Download PDFInfo
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/16—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed using dispersed, e.g. acetate, dyestuffs
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06L—DRY-CLEANING, WASHING OR BLEACHING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR MADE-UP FIBROUS GOODS; BLEACHING LEATHER OR FURS
- D06L1/00—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods
- D06L1/12—Dry-cleaning or washing fibres, filaments, threads, yarns, fabrics, feathers or made-up fibrous goods using aqueous solvents
- D06L1/14—De-sizing
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M11/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with inorganic substances or complexes thereof; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment, e.g. mercerising
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M13/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, with non-macromolecular organic compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M15/00—Treating fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics, or fibrous goods made from such materials, with macromolecular compounds; Such treatment combined with mechanical treatment
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P1/00—General processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or general processes of dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the dyes, pigments, or auxiliary substances employed
- D06P1/0032—Determining dye recipes and dyeing parameters; Colour matching or monitoring
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
- D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
- D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
- D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
- D06P3/8276—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing ester groups
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
- D06M—TREATMENT, NOT PROVIDED FOR ELSEWHERE IN CLASS D06, OF FIBRES, THREADS, YARNS, FABRICS, FEATHERS OR FIBROUS GOODS MADE FROM SUCH MATERIALS
- D06M2101/00—Chemical constitution of the fibres, threads, yarns, fabrics or fibrous goods made from such materials, to be treated
- D06M2101/16—Synthetic fibres, other than mineral fibres
- D06M2101/30—Synthetic polymers consisting of macromolecular compounds obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- D06M2101/32—Polyesters
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- Y—GENERAL TAGGING OF NEW TECHNOLOGICAL DEVELOPMENTS; GENERAL TAGGING OF CROSS-SECTIONAL TECHNOLOGIES SPANNING OVER SEVERAL SECTIONS OF THE IPC; TECHNICAL SUBJECTS COVERED BY FORMER USPC CROSS-REFERENCE ART COLLECTIONS [XRACs] AND DIGESTS
- Y02—TECHNOLOGIES OR APPLICATIONS FOR MITIGATION OR ADAPTATION AGAINST CLIMATE CHANGE
- Y02P—CLIMATE CHANGE MITIGATION TECHNOLOGIES IN THE PRODUCTION OR PROCESSING OF GOODS
- Y02P70/00—Climate change mitigation technologies in the production process for final industrial or consumer products
- Y02P70/50—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product
- Y02P70/62—Manufacturing or production processes characterised by the final manufactured product related technologies for production or treatment of textile or flexible materials or products thereof, including footwear
Abstract
The invention discloses a dyeing and finishing process of T800 stretch fabric based on PBT/PET composite yarn, which comprises a pretreatment process, a dyeing process and a shaping process which are sequentially carried out; the pretreatment process comprises a cold pad-batch process and a BO open width desizing process; the dyeing process is characterized in that a high-temperature high-pressure air flow overflow dual-purpose dyeing machine is utilized to dye and process the T800 elastic fabric, the dyeing agent adopted in the dyeing process comprises dye and dyeing auxiliary agent, and the dyeing auxiliary agent comprises a high-temperature leveling agent and an oligomer remover; the shaping process is to carry out shaping treatment on the dyed fabric by a shaping machine and by using shaping finishing liquid; the setting finishing liquid comprises a waterproof agent and a cross-linking agent. According to the dyeing and finishing process, according to the self characteristics of the T800 elastic fabric, through making a proper pretreatment process, a proper dyeing process and a proper shaping process, the dyeing quality is improved, meanwhile, a good waterproof function is also provided for the fabric, and the durability of the waterproof function of the fabric is improved.
Description
Technical Field
The invention belongs to the technical field of textile printing and dyeing, and particularly relates to a dyeing and finishing process of T800 stretch fabric based on PBT/PET composite yarns.
Background
Polybutylene terephthalate, abbreviated as PBT, is a crystalline linear saturated polyester, originally invented by the chemist P Schlack of the company Interessen Gemeinschaft Farbenindustrie AG in Germany in 1942. But the method is not suitable for mass popularization and application due to the world war atmosphere, raw materials, equipment, technology, market and the like.
The use of PBT in the textile sector began at the earliest in Japanese at the end of the 70 s of the 20 th century and in the cone of rayon and Celanese, inc. of the early 80 s. However, the development and application of PBT fiber are different from manufacturers in Japan and the United states, and the PBT fiber in Japan mainly comprises a fine yarn and is mainly used in the aspects of bathrobe, women's underwear, panty hose, sportswear and the like; PBT fiber of American company is mostly filaments with medium and heavy denier, and is mainly applied to producing labor fabrics such as elastic jeans, sportswear and the like. PBT fiber has not been produced in a large scale at first due to the restrictions of raw materials, technology, cost, market and other factors. Until the later 90 s of the 20 th century, with the development of the domestic PBT resin industry, the breakthrough of the BDO production technology of the main raw material is not achieved, and the mature PBT fiber production technology is gradually formed in China.
The research of Jakeway et al considers that the PBT macromolecule has an alpha configuration and a beta configuration, and can generate reversible deformation under the action of external force. Is in alpha structure when relaxed, at this time, 4-CH in molecular chain 2 -assuming a GGTGG (paraanti-parade) conformation, the molecular chain having a helical structure; - (CH 2) when stretched by external force 4 The group molecule conformation changes to TSTST (trans-cis, trans-trans) in the beta linear conformation. PBT macromolecules undergo a reversible transformation of the alpha, beta configuration during strain and are therefore elastic.
The T800 elastic fiber is prepared from two polyester fibers of PBT and PET through parallel composite processing. Because two components with different properties and microstructures exist on the cross section at the same time, after the wet heat treatment, the two components can shrink to different degrees, so that the fiber generates strong longitudinal stress and simultaneously generates torsion deviating from a longitudinal axis, thereby the fiber is spirally curled in a three-dimensional way, and the three-dimensional curled structure endows the fiber with excellent elasticity. Since the curl is determined by the nature of the molecular structure itself, its elasticity and recovery are more durable than ordinary elastic fibers.
Oligomers are inevitably produced during the polymerization spinning of PBT and PET, among which are monomers, dimers, trimers, tetramers, etc., wherein the cyclic oligomers account for about 75% of the total content. The cyclic oligomer has high content, easy aggregation and crystallization, high chemical and temperature stability, poor water solubility, good compatibility with polyester fiber and difficult washing, so that the oligomer does not interfere with spinning process, but brings a lot of troubles to spinning and dyeing.
In addition, in the dyeing process, the PBT and PET bi-components in the T800 stretch fabric are difficult to realize better homochromatic effect due to the difference of glass transition temperature and different dyeing rates.
T800 stretch fabrics are commonly used for manufacturing windwear, yoga clothes, sportswear, swimwear and the like, and are generally required to have certain waterproof performance; after the T800 stretch fabric is subjected to waterproof treatment by the traditional after-finishing process, the waterproof performance of the T800 stretch fabric tends to be reduced or even completely lost after the T800 stretch fabric is used and washed.
Therefore, it is necessary to develop a dyeing and finishing process for the T800 stretch fabric, so as to improve dyeing quality, give the fabric a better waterproof function, and improve durability of the waterproof function.
Disclosure of Invention
In order to solve the technical problems, the invention aims to provide a dyeing and finishing processing technology of a T800 stretch fabric based on PBT/PET composite yarns. According to the dyeing and finishing process, according to the self characteristics of the T800 elastic fabric, through making a proper pretreatment process, a proper dyeing process and a proper shaping process, the dyeing quality is improved, meanwhile, a good waterproof function is also provided for the fabric, and the durability of the waterproof function of the fabric is improved.
In order to achieve the technical purpose and the technical effect, the invention is realized by the following technical scheme:
a dyeing and finishing process of T800 stretch fabric based on PBT/PET composite yarn comprises a pretreatment process, a dyeing process and a shaping process which are sequentially carried out; the pretreatment process comprises a cold pad-batch process and a BO open width desizing process;
the cold pad-batch process adopts a roller to pad the fabric grey cloth, then the padded fabric grey cloth is rolled, and a layer of plastic film is sleeved outside the fabric grey cloth and tightly tied and sealed, and the rolling cold pad-batch process is carried out;
the BO open width desizing process is that T800 elastic fabric after cold pile treatment is fed into a BO desizing machine in an open width mode, and open width desizing treatment is carried out on the T800 elastic fabric by utilizing open width desizing liquid;
the dyeing process is characterized in that a high-temperature high-pressure airflow overflow dual-purpose dyeing machine is utilized to dye and process the T800 elastic fabric, the dyeing agent adopted in the dyeing process comprises dye and dyeing auxiliary agent, and the dyeing auxiliary agent comprises a high-temperature leveling agent and an oligomer remover;
the shaping process is used for shaping the dyed fabric through a shaping machine and by using shaping finishing liquid; each liter of the shaping finishing liquid comprises 40-60g of waterproof agent NT-X668 and 15g of cross-linking agent XAN.
Further, the cold pad-batch process adopts the following process recipe and process conditions:
further, the BO open width desizing process adopts the following process prescription and process conditions:
further, in the dyeing process, the dye is a disperse dye.
Further, the disperse dye comprises disperse turquoise blue S-GL, large Ainsliaea yellow S-4G and disperse fluorescent yellow.
Further, the dyeing process adopts the following process recipe:
further, the dyeing process comprises the following steps: when the temperature of a dye vat of the dyeing machine reaches 45 ℃, sequentially injecting dyeing auxiliary agent and dye, then heating the temperature of the dye vat to 75 ℃ at a heating rate of 0.7 ℃/min, preserving heat for 10min, heating to 110 ℃ at a heating rate of 0.7 ℃/min, preserving heat for 10min, heating to 120 ℃ at a heating rate of 1.1 ℃/min, preserving heat for 8min, heating to 130 ℃ at a heating rate of 1.1 ℃/min, preserving heat for 50min, then cooling to 80 ℃ at a cooling rate of 1.2 ℃/min, and then entering a water washing stage.
Further, the process recipe and the process conditions of the shaping process are as follows:
compared with the prior art, the invention has the following advantages and effects:
(1) The cold pad-batch process provided by the invention can effectively decompose and remove spinning oil in T800 fabric, chemical sizing agent used in the sizing process, other stain impurities and the like by setting reasonable alkali concentration and cooperating with environment-friendly low-alkali cold pad-batch HLD and oxidation desizing agent A-301 under a lower temperature condition; the whole cold rolling pile process does not need special temperature, pressure, equipment and the like, has low energy consumption, clean and simple production process and obvious energy-saving and emission-reducing effects; the BO open width desizing process can effectively wash out liquid alkali, slurry, auxiliary agent and the like on the fabric treated by the cold pile process, and thoroughly treat the surface of the fabric under the secondary action of desizing agent and the like; under the damp and hot effect of the open width desizing process, the internal stress of the fabric is eliminated, the width of the fabric is contracted to a certain extent, and the meter gram weight, the handfeel, the style and the like of the fabric are also partially changed so as to meet the quality requirement;
(2) The dyeing auxiliary agent adopted in the dyeing process comprises a high-temperature leveling agent and an oligomer remover; the oligomer remover TF-205 can well remove the oligomer accumulated or deposited on the fabric or dyeing equipment, so that the influence of the oligomer on dyeing is avoided;
in addition, in the front-stage dyeing process of the dyeing process, the temperature rising speed of the dye vat is controlled to be 0.7 ℃/min, so that the excessive quick dyeing speed of the PBT component under the condition of lower front-stage dyeing temperature can be avoided; in the later dyeing process, the temperature rising speed of the dye vat is controlled at 1.1 ℃/min, so that the temperature rising is relatively fast, and the PET component can quickly absorb dye under the condition of higher later dyeing temperature; under the condition of higher post-dyeing temperature, the dye diffusion effect is obvious, and the uniform dyeing of the dye is realized; the dyeing temperature process curve designed by the invention can ensure the dyeing uniformity, so that the PBT component and the PET component in the fabric can obtain better homochromatic effect, and can prevent the formation of crinkles;
(3) The sizing finishing liquid adopted in the sizing process disclosed by the invention contains the waterproof agent NT-X668 and the cross-linking agent XAN, and the waterproof agent NT-X668 and the cross-linking agent XAN cooperate to ensure that the treated fabric has a more durable waterproof effect.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a graph showing the dyeing temperature process in the dyeing process of the present invention.
Detailed Description
The preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the accompanying drawings so that the advantages and features of the present invention can be more easily understood by those skilled in the art, thereby making clear and defining the scope of the present invention.
Examples
A fabric blank: t800 stretch fabric, white blank width 195cm, white blank square meter gram weight: 78g/m 2 Warp and weft yarns: 75D/48F x 75D/48F, warp and weft densities: 132 roots/10 cm x 99 roots/10 cm.
The T800 stretch fabric is sequentially subjected to pretreatment process, dyeing process and shaping process.
The dyeing and finishing process of the embodiment adopts the following sources of dye and auxiliary agent:
dye: disperse turtleya S-GL, disperse fluorescein (Zhejiang Severe Co., ltd.), large Ainix yellow S-4G (Deseta, shanghai) trade Co., ltd.
Auxiliary agent: 32-ion membrane alkali (Jiangsu Su group Co., ltd.), environment-friendly low-alkali cold reactor HLD, oxidation desizing agent A-301 (Soviet corporation), emulsifying refining agent TF-188A, dispersing chelating agent TF-510C, polyester superfine fiber high-temperature leveling agent TF-212K, oligomer remover TF-205 (Zhejiang transmission Co., ltd.), deoiling agent SB-101 (Wu Jiang Co., ltd.), high-temperature leveling agent MDL01 (Tuo Na trade Co., ltd.), waterproofing agent NT-X668 (Shanghai Nanot technology Co., ltd.), and crosslinking agent XAN (Hensmei chemical Co., ltd.).
(1) Pretreatment process
The pretreatment process comprises a cold pad-batch process and a BO open width desizing process;
the cold pad-batch process adopts a roller to pad the fabric grey cloth, then the padded fabric grey cloth is rolled, and a layer of plastic film is sleeved outside the fabric grey cloth and tightly tied and sealed, and the rolling cold pad-batch process is carried out;
the cold pad-batch process adopts the following process recipe and process conditions:
wherein g/L represents the gram number of the mass of the substance contained in 1L of cold mass liquid. The 1L cold reactor liquid is prepared by using the 32-ionic membrane alkali, the environment-friendly low-alkali cold reactor king HLD and the oxidation desizing agent A-301 with the prescribed amount, and then adding water to fix the volume to 1L.
And padding T800 fabric with cold pad-batch at a speed of 45m/min under a pressure of 2.5MPa, wherein the liquid carrying rate is about 80%, rolling the padded fabric on an A-shaped frame, tightly binding, sealing and stacking a layer of plastic film outside, and driving the fabric to rotate at a constant speed at normal temperature by utilizing motor so as to ensure full reaction inside. Under the lower temperature condition, the spinning oil agent in the T800 fabric, the chemical sizing agent used in the sizing process, other stain impurities and the like can be effectively decomposed and removed by setting reasonable alkali concentration and cooperating with the environment-friendly low-alkali cold reactor king HLD and the oxidation desizing agent A-301; the whole cold rolling pile process does not need special temperature, pressure, equipment and the like, has low energy consumption, clean and simple production process and obvious energy-saving and emission-reducing effects.
The BO open width desizing process is that T800 elastic fabric after cold pile treatment is fed into a BO desizing machine in an open width mode, and open width desizing treatment is carried out on the T800 elastic fabric by utilizing open width desizing liquid;
the BO open width desizing process adopts the following process prescription and process conditions:
wherein g/L represents the number of grams of the mass of the substance contained in 1L of the open width desizing liquid. The 1L open width desizing liquid is prepared by adding water to a constant volume of 1L by using 32-ionic membrane alkali, oxidation desizing agent A-301, emulsification refining agent TF-188A, oil removing agent SB-101 and dispersion chelating agent TF-510C with the prescribed amount.
The T800 fabric after cold pad-batch treatment enters a BO type desizing machine in an open width mode, and the fabric is not under tension in the machine, so that internal stress and the like of the fabric in the processes of spinning, weaving and the like can be effectively eliminated. The oxidation desizing agent A-301 has good alkali resistance stability under the condition of 98 ℃ hot alkali, and can oxidize and degrade ester bonds in common polyacrylate slurry macromolecules for fabric weaving, so that the polyacrylate slurry macromolecules form small molecule chain segments with good water solubility, the viscosity is rapidly reduced, and the polyacrylate slurry macromolecules drop from the fabric under the conditions of gravity and in-tank solution dynamic. In order to remove the slurry and keep the hydrolyzed slurry from further staining the fabric, the emulsion refining agent TF-188A may also be used to swell the slurry in water and to be emulsified into a dispersed state for removal. The dispersed chelating agent TF-510C has good chelating effect on metal ions, can prevent the falling slurry from being anti-contaminated, and can soften the pretreatment water quality. The synergistic effect of the oil removing agent SB-101 can enhance the desizing effect on fabrics.
The BO open width desizing process can effectively wash out liquid alkali, slurry, auxiliary agent and the like on the fabric treated by the cold pile process, and thoroughly treat the surface of the fabric under the secondary action of desizing agent and the like; under the damp and hot effect of the open width desizing process, the internal stress of the fabric is eliminated, the width of the fabric is contracted to a certain extent, and the meter gram weight, the handfeel, the style and the like of the fabric are also partially changed so as to meet the quality requirement.
(2) Dyeing process
The dyeing process is characterized in that a high-temperature high-pressure air flow overflow dual-purpose dyeing machine is utilized to dye and process the T800 elastic fabric, the dyeing agent adopted in the dyeing process comprises disperse dye and dyeing auxiliary agent, and the dyeing auxiliary agent comprises a high-temperature leveling agent and an oligomer remover; the disperse dye comprises disperse turquoise blue S-GL, large mugwort yellow S-4G and disperse fluorescent yellow.
The dyeing process adopts the following process recipe:
the technological parameters of the dyeing machine are set as follows:
75 percent of main pump,
80 percent of fan,
the lifting wheel is 340rpm.
The dyeing process utilizes a high-temperature high-pressure airflow overflow dual-purpose dyeing machine to carry out dyeing, and the dyeing auxiliary agent and the disperse dye are added when the temperature in a dye vat reaches 45 ℃. The dyeing auxiliary agent is injected by adopting a direct pumping method; the disperse dye is injected in a proportional injection mode, and the injection flow rate is controlled to ensure uniform injection, so that the problems of uneven overall dyeing of the fabric and the like caused by easy dyeing of PBT fiber under the condition of too fast injection are prevented.
Compared with the traditional warp beam dyeing and overflow dyeing technologies, the airflow dyeing adopted by the dyeing process utilizes high-speed airflow to gasify the dye liquor into vaporous liquid drops, atomized dye molecules have high kinetic energy and permeability, and the high-speed migration improves the level dyeing property of the product, shortens the dyeing time and is not easy to generate color patterns and dyeing folds. In addition, the bath ratio in the dyeing process is only 1:6, and the water consumption is greatly reduced compared with the traditional dyeing, so that the consumption of dye, chemical auxiliary agents and energy sources is also greatly reduced, and the requirements of environmental protection, energy conservation, emission reduction and high efficiency are met.
The glass transition temperature (Tg) of the PBT fiber is about 25 ℃, which is about 50 ℃ lower than the PET fiber at 75 ℃. Therefore, with the rise of temperature, the macromolecular chain segment of the PBT starts to move at first, so that gaps and the like are generated, the disperse dye is facilitated to enter, and further dye dyeing is realized. Therefore, in the front-stage dyeing process, the heating speed is controlled to be 0.7 ℃/min, the heat preservation time is controlled, and the PBT is prevented from being dyed faster. With the continuous temperature rise and pressurization in the dye vat, the movement of the molecular chain segments of the fabric is aggravated, more 'holes' can be formed by the change of the microstructure, the diffusion of dye is facilitated, and the diffusion effect is more obvious when the temperature is higher. In the subsequent dyeing process, the temperature rising speed is increased to 1.1 ℃/min so as to ensure that the PET component rapidly adsorbs the dye, further ensure that the dye uptake of the PBT and the dye uptake of the PET component keep the consistency to the greatest extent, improve the dyeing uniformity, realize the homochromatic effect of the two components and prevent the formation of crepe marks.
The dyed fabric can be subjected to sample comparison at about 80 ℃, if there is no problem, and then can be subjected to washing operation after dyeing. The first water washing is carried out at about 60 ℃ for about 20min, so that most of floating color, foam and the like can be washed off. Then, the fabric is washed again for about 10min at normal temperature, and the water in the vat is clear and has no obvious foam. If the second washing does not meet the requirement, the washing can be continued as the case may be.
In the dyeing process, the oligomer remover TF-205 in the dyeing auxiliary agent can well remove the oligomer accumulated or deposited on the fabric or dyeing equipment, so that the influence of the oligomer on dyeing is avoided.
(3) Shaping process
The shaping process is characterized in that the dyed fabric is shaped by a shaping machine and by using shaping finishing liquid; each liter of the shaping finishing liquid comprises 40-60g of waterproof agent NT-X668 and 15g of cross-linking agent XAN.
The shaping process has the following process conditions:
the waterproof shaping treatment of the shaping process can make the waterproof effect of the T800 fabric more durable.
Effect example
The performance test methods are as follows:
the color difference is measured by using computer color measuring and matching instrument to test L, a and b values according to GB/T3979-1997 method for measuring object color, and the workshop production and processing samples are set as comparison samples, respectively measured 3 times at different positions, and averaged. The color measurement condition is D65 light source, 10 degree visual angle.
The rubbing color fastness is measured according to GB/T3920-2008 "rubbing color fastness for textile color fastness test".
The fastness to soaping is determined according to GB/T3921-2008 "fastness to soaping for textile color fastness test".
The waterproof effect is measured according to GB/T4745-2012 Water-repellent test and evaluation method for textile Water resistance.
Washing durability test the washing durability test was performed with reference to GB/T8629-2017 "household washing and drying procedure for textile test".
The processed T800 stretch fabrics and the standard samples are subjected to comparison test, and the dyeing processing effects are shown in the following table 1:
table 1 t800 stretch fabric production sample and standard sample color differences
As can be seen from Table 1, the total color difference ΔE of the T800 stretch fabric produced and customer samples was 0.18 at a D65 light source and a 10 degree viewing angle, which can be determined to have a high color reproducibility.
The color fastness test was performed on the T800 dyed fabric produced and processed, and the results are shown in table 2 below:
table 2 t800 color fastness of stretch fabrics
As can be seen from Table 2, the dry friction and wet friction color fastness of the T800 stretch fabric reach 4-5 levels; in terms of the color fastness of soaping, the color fastness is 4-5 grade, and the cotton color fastness is also 4-5 grade.
In conclusion, the processed T800 elastic force has better effects of soaping resistance and abrasion resistance.
Performing waterproof performance test on the T800 elastic fabric treated by the dyeing and finishing process; the waterproof effect is evaluated according to GBT 4745-2012 water-dipping method for detecting and evaluating the waterproof performance of textiles; wash durability test the wash durability performance was performed with reference to GB/T8629-2017 "household washing and drying procedure for textile test".
The result shows that the waterproof grade of the fabric after the waterproof treatment is 4, the fabric has better anti-wetting performance and meets the basic requirements of customers and textiles leaving the factory. After 20 times of washing, the waterproof effect of the T800 elastic fabric is still 4 grades, and after 30 times of washing, the waterproof effect is 3-4 grades, and the T800 elastic fabric has better durability.
The foregoing description is only illustrative of the present invention and is not intended to limit the scope of the invention, and all equivalent structures or equivalent processes or direct or indirect application in other related technical fields are included in the scope of the present invention.
Claims (7)
1. A dyeing and finishing process of T800 stretch fabric based on PBT/PET composite yarn is characterized in that: the dyeing and finishing processing technology comprises a pretreatment technology, a dyeing technology and a shaping technology which are sequentially carried out; the pretreatment process comprises a cold pad-batch process and a BO open width desizing process;
the cold pad-batch process adopts a roller to pad the fabric grey cloth, then the padded fabric grey cloth is rolled, and a layer of plastic film is sleeved outside the fabric grey cloth and tightly tied and sealed, and the rolling cold pad-batch process is carried out;
the BO open width desizing process is that T800 elastic fabric after cold pile treatment is fed into a BO desizing machine in an open width mode, and open width desizing treatment is carried out on the T800 elastic fabric by utilizing open width desizing liquid;
the dyeing process is characterized in that a high-temperature high-pressure airflow overflow dual-purpose dyeing machine is utilized to dye and process the T800 elastic fabric, the dyeing agent adopted in the dyeing process comprises dye and dyeing auxiliary agent, and the dyeing auxiliary agent comprises a high-temperature leveling agent and an oligomer remover; the dyeing process comprises the following steps: when the temperature of a dye vat of the dyeing machine reaches 45 ℃, sequentially injecting dyeing auxiliary agent and dye, then heating the temperature of the dye vat to 75 ℃ at a heating rate of 0.7 ℃/min, preserving heat for 10min, heating to 110 ℃ at a heating rate of 0.7 ℃/min, preserving heat for 10min, heating to 120 ℃ at a heating rate of 1.1 ℃/min, preserving heat for 8min, heating to 130 ℃ at a heating rate of 1.1 ℃/min, preserving heat for 50min, then cooling to 80 ℃ at a cooling rate of 1.2 ℃/min, and then entering a water washing stage;
the shaping process is used for shaping the dyed fabric through a shaping machine and by using shaping finishing liquid; each liter of the shaping finishing liquid comprises 40-60g of waterproof agent NT-X668 and 15-20g of cross-linking agent XAN.
2. The dyeing and finishing process for the T800 stretch fabric based on the PBT/PET composite yarn, which is disclosed in claim 1, is characterized in that:
the cold pad-batch process adopts the following process prescription and process conditions:
50-60g/L of 32-ionic membrane alkali,
HLD3-5g/L of environment-friendly low-alkali cold reactor king,
oxidizing desizing agent A-3013-5g/L;
the rolling pressure is 2.5MPa,
the rolling speed is 45-50m/min,
the stacking temperature is at room temperature,
stacking time is 24-36h.
3. The dyeing and finishing process for the T800 stretch fabric based on the PBT/PET composite yarn, which is disclosed in claim 1, is characterized in that: the BO open width desizing process adopts the following process prescription and process conditions:
45-50g/L of 32-ionic membrane alkali,
oxidizing desizing agent A-3012-3g/L,
emulsifying refining agent TF-188A 1-3g/L,
de-oiled SB-101 1-3g/L,
dispersing chelating agent TF-510C 2-3g/L;
the temperature is between 95 and 98 ℃,
the speed of the vehicle is 40-45m/min.
4. The dyeing and finishing process for the T800 stretch fabric based on the PBT/PET composite yarn, which is disclosed in claim 1, is characterized in that: in the dyeing process, the dye is a disperse dye.
5. The dyeing and finishing process for the T800 stretch fabric based on the PBT/PET composite yarn, which is disclosed in claim 4, is characterized in that: the disperse dye comprises disperse turquoise blue S-GL, large mugwort yellow S-4G and disperse fluorescent yellow.
6. The dyeing and finishing process for the T800 stretch fabric based on the PBT/PET composite yarn, which is disclosed in claim 5, is characterized in that: the dyeing process adopts the following process recipe:
dispersing the turquoise blue S-GL0.026% (o.w.f),
large mugwort yellow S-4g 0.120% (o.w.f),
disperse fluorescent yellow 0.011% (o.w.f),
high-temperature leveling agent MDL010.5-1.0g/L,
high-temperature leveling agent TF-212K0.3-0.5g/L for polyester superfine fiber,
oligomer remover TF-2050.5-1.0g/L,
the dyeing liquid 1200L is used for dyeing the color,
the bath ratio is 1:6.
7. The dyeing and finishing process for the T800 stretch fabric based on the PBT/PET composite yarn, which is disclosed in claim 1, is characterized in that: the shaping process has the following process conditions:
the temperature is 180 ℃,
the speed of the vehicle is 40-45m/min,
the rotating speed of the fan is 1200-1300r/min,
the positive overfeeding is 0 to +2,
the width of the door is 150-152cm.
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