WO2021000631A1 - 一种化妆品用舒敏物质的评价方法 - Google Patents

一种化妆品用舒敏物质的评价方法 Download PDF

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WO2021000631A1
WO2021000631A1 PCT/CN2020/085326 CN2020085326W WO2021000631A1 WO 2021000631 A1 WO2021000631 A1 WO 2021000631A1 CN 2020085326 W CN2020085326 W CN 2020085326W WO 2021000631 A1 WO2021000631 A1 WO 2021000631A1
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facial mask
mask
soothing
detection agent
sensitive detection
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PCT/CN2020/085326
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English (en)
French (fr)
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张芝华
廖筝筝
聂菁
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上海中翊日化有限公司
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Publication of WO2021000631A1 publication Critical patent/WO2021000631A1/zh

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61BDIAGNOSIS; SURGERY; IDENTIFICATION
    • A61B5/00Measuring for diagnostic purposes; Identification of persons
    • A61B5/44Detecting, measuring or recording for evaluating the integumentary system, e.g. skin, hair or nails
    • A61B5/441Skin evaluation, e.g. for skin disorder diagnosis
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/365Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/42Amides
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61MDEVICES FOR INTRODUCING MEDIA INTO, OR ONTO, THE BODY; DEVICES FOR TRANSDUCING BODY MEDIA OR FOR TAKING MEDIA FROM THE BODY; DEVICES FOR PRODUCING OR ENDING SLEEP OR STUPOR
    • A61M35/00Devices for applying media, e.g. remedies, on the human body
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/005Preparations for sensitive skin

Definitions

  • the invention belongs to the technical field of cosmetics, and specifically relates to an evaluation method of soothing substances for cosmetics.
  • Sensitive skin refers specifically to a state of high reaction of the skin under physiological or pathological conditions, which mainly occurs on the face.
  • the clinical manifestation is that the skin is prone to burning, tingling, itching and tightness when stimulated by physical, chemical, spiritual and other factors.
  • Subjective symptoms such as sensation, with or without objective signs such as erythema, scales, and telangiectasia.
  • the possible trigger factors for sensitive skin are: (1) Physical factors: such as seasonal changes, temperature changes, and sun exposure; (2) Chemical factors: such as cosmetics, cleaning supplies, disinfection products, tretinoin and other irritating topical drugs, Environmental pollutants (such as haze, dust, exhaust gas), etc.; (3) Mental factors: such as anxiety, depression, etc.
  • Sensitive skin has a high incidence in all countries in the world. Among them, the incidence of Asian women is 40% to 55.98%, and the incidence of Chinese women is about 36.1%. In recent years, on the one hand, with the increase of environmental pollution and mental stress, the incidence of sensitive skin has continued to increase; on the other hand, with the improvement of people’s living standards and awareness of sensitive skin, the perception rate of sensitive skin has increased Attention is gradually increasing. As a result, cosmetics with anti-sensitivity and anti-irritation effects have received increasing attention, and substances with anti-sensitivity and anti-irritation effects have also been favored by the majority of researchers in the cosmetics field.
  • the present invention aims to provide a method for screening soothing substances for cosmetics that is simple and easy to implement, has high sensitivity, and has objective and true results.
  • the principle of the present invention is:
  • the facial mask includes a facial mask cloth and a facial mask liquid
  • the facial mask liquid contains a cosmetic base and a sensitive detection agent.
  • the sensitive detection agent is any one of phenoxyethanol, lactic acid, capsaicin, sodium lauryl sulfate and hydroxybenzoate.
  • the cosmetic base is composed of the following raw materials in weight percentage:
  • the preparation method of the facial mask includes the following steps:
  • step 2) After cooling the mixture liquid obtained in step 1) to 40-45°C, add the sensitive detection agent, glycerin and NaCl in sequence, stir for 15-25 minutes, and cool to 30-35°C to obtain a facial mask liquid;
  • step 3 Store the facial mask liquid obtained in step 2) in a facial mask base material to obtain a facial mask.
  • the mask substrate is any one of non-woven fabric, silk cloth, biological fiber, and nano fiber.
  • the preparation process of the facial mask specifically includes filling the facial mask liquid into a facial mask bag containing a folded facial mask base material, that is, the amount of liquid on the surface of the facial mask base material is 17.5-22.5 g.
  • the prepared mask is added with a sensitive detection agent to the mask liquid of the specified formula. Consumers can detect the sensitive skin by sensing the irritation location and time when applying the mask.
  • the specific method is: apply the prepared mask to On the face, sense whether there is irritation; if there is irritation, record the irritation location and the irritation time to evaluate the skin sensitivity.
  • the irritation includes any one or more of tingling, itching, burning, tightness, tingling, and itching.
  • the present invention provides a method for evaluating soothing substances for cosmetics using sensitive detection agents.
  • the method evaluates whether the soothing substance has soothing activity by detecting the skin's irritation response to the sensitive detection agent before and after adding the soothing substance.
  • the sensitive detection agent is prepared into a facial mask, and the skin's irritation response to the sensitive detection agent is detected by applying the facial mask to human skin.
  • the method includes the following steps:
  • a facial mask for detecting sensitive skin including a facial mask base material and a facial mask liquid, the facial mask liquid containing a cosmetic base and a sensitive detection agent;
  • step 2) Add a soothing substance to the facial mask liquid in step 1) above to prepare a mask containing the soothing substance;
  • step 1) Apply the mask prepared in step 1) and step 2) respectively to sense irritation, and evaluate whether the soothing substance has soothing activity according to the skin's irritation response to the sensitive detection agent.
  • the sensitive detection agent is any one or more of phenoxyethanol, lactic acid, capsaicin, sodium lauryl sulfate and hydroxybenzoate.
  • the cosmetic base is composed of the following raw materials in weight percentage:
  • the irritation includes any one or more of burning, tingling, tightness, tingling, and itching.
  • the preparation of the facial mask in step 1) includes the following steps:
  • step 2) After cooling the mixture liquid obtained in step 1) to 40-45°C, add the sensitive detection agent, glycerin and NaCl in sequence, stir for 15-25 minutes, and cool to 30-35°C to obtain a facial mask liquid;
  • step 3 Store the mask liquid obtained in step 2) in the mask base material to obtain a mask.
  • the preparation of the facial mask in step 2) includes the following steps:
  • step 2) After cooling the mixture liquid obtained in step 1) to 40 ⁇ 45°C, add the sensitive detection agent, glycerin, NaCl and soothing substances in sequence, stir for 15 ⁇ 25 minutes, and cool to 30 ⁇ 35°C to obtain a facial mask liquid;
  • step 3 Store the mask liquid obtained in step 2) in the mask base material to obtain a mask.
  • the mask substrate is any one of non-woven fabric, silk cloth, biological fiber, and nanofiber.
  • the present invention provides a method for evaluating a soothing substance for cosmetics using a facial mask.
  • the method includes the following steps:
  • a facial mask for detecting sensitive skin including a facial mask base material and a facial mask liquid, the facial mask liquid containing a cosmetic base and a sensitive detection agent;
  • step 2) Add a soothing substance to the facial mask liquid in step 1) above to prepare a mask containing the soothing substance;
  • step 1) Apply the mask prepared in step 1) and step 2) respectively to sense irritation, and evaluate whether the soothing substance has soothing activity according to the skin's irritation response to the sensitive detection agent.
  • the sensitive detection agent is any one or more of phenoxyethanol, lactic acid, capsaicin, sodium lauryl sulfate and hydroxybenzoate.
  • the cosmetic base is composed of the following raw materials in weight percentage:
  • the irritation includes any one or more of burning, tingling, tightness, tingling, and itching.
  • the preparation of the facial mask in step 1) includes the following steps:
  • step 2) After cooling the mixture liquid obtained in step 1) to 40-45°C, add the sensitive detection agent, glycerin and NaCl in sequence, stir for 15-25 minutes, and cool to 30-35°C to obtain a facial mask liquid;
  • step 3 Store the mask liquid obtained in step 2) in the mask base material to obtain a mask.
  • the preparation of the facial mask in step 2) includes the following steps:
  • step 2) After cooling the mixture liquid obtained in step 1) to 40 ⁇ 45°C, add the sensitive detection agent, glycerin, NaCl and soothing substances in sequence, stir for 15 ⁇ 25 minutes, and cool to 30 ⁇ 35°C to obtain a facial mask liquid;
  • step 3 Store the mask liquid obtained in step 2) in the mask base material to obtain a mask.
  • the mask substrate is any one of non-woven fabric, silk cloth, biological fiber, and nanofiber.
  • the present invention provides a facial mask which includes a sensitive detection agent and a soothing substance.
  • the facial mask includes a facial mask base material and a facial mask liquid, and the facial mask liquid contains a sensitive detection agent and a soothing substance.
  • the sensitive detection agent contained in the facial mask liquid is any one or more of phenoxyethanol, lactic acid, capsaicin, sodium lauryl sulfate and hydroxybenzoate.
  • the weight percentage of phenoxyethanol contained in the facial mask liquid is 0.01-1.0%.
  • the weight percentage of lactic acid contained in the facial mask liquid is 4.0-6.0%.
  • the weight percentage of capsaicin contained in the facial mask liquid is 0.01-0.03%.
  • the weight percentage of sodium dodecyl sulfonate contained in the facial mask liquid is 5.0-8.0%.
  • the weight percentage of the hydroxybenzoate contained in the facial mask liquid is 0.1-0.3%.
  • the facial mask liquid also contains a cosmetic base.
  • the cosmetic base is composed of the following raw materials in weight percentage:
  • the mask substrate is any one of non-woven fabric, silk cloth, biological fiber, and nanofiber.
  • the present invention provides a new application of a sensitive detection agent as a new application for evaluating whether a soothing substance for cosmetics has soothing activity.
  • the sensitive detection agent is used to screen soothing substances for cosmetics.
  • the sensitive detection agent is used to verify the soothing activity of the soothing substance for cosmetics.
  • the sensitive detection agent is used to compare the soothing activities of two or more cosmetic soothing substances.
  • whether the soothing substance has soothing activity is evaluated by detecting the skin's irritation response to the sensitive detection agent before and after adding the soothing substance.
  • the sensitive detection agent is prepared into a facial mask, and the skin's irritation response to the sensitive detection agent is detected by applying the facial mask to human skin.
  • the method for evaluating whether a soothing substance has soothing activity includes the following steps:
  • a facial mask for detecting sensitive skin including a facial mask base material and a facial mask liquid, the facial mask liquid containing a cosmetic base and a sensitive detection agent;
  • step 2) Add a soothing substance to the facial mask liquid in step 1) above to prepare a mask containing the soothing substance;
  • step 1) Apply the mask prepared in step 1) and step 2) respectively to sense irritation, and evaluate whether the soothing substance has soothing activity according to the skin's irritation response to the sensitive detection agent.
  • the sensitive detection agent is any one or more of phenoxyethanol, lactic acid, capsaicin, sodium lauryl sulfate and hydroxybenzoate.
  • the cosmetic base is composed of the following raw materials in weight percentage:
  • the irritation includes any one or more of burning, tingling, tightness, tingling, and itching.
  • the invention of the present invention includes the following three meanings: (1) It is used to screen soothing substances for cosmetics, that is, the method of the present invention can be used to screen substances with soothing activity, so that it is low irritation, Preparation of high temperature and cosmetics Screen new raw materials capable of exerting soothing activity (2) Used to verify the soothing activity of soothing substances, that is, the method of the present invention can verify the anti-allergy activity of a known soothing substance Specifically, the activity level can be verified to verify whether it exerts its anti-sensitivity activity by relieving tingling, itching, burning, tightness, or tingling; (3) used for different soothing substances The method of the present invention can be used to compare the anti-sensitivity activities of a variety of soothing substances, so as to have a more comprehensive understanding of the anti-sensitivity activities of different types of soothing substances. Adding amount provides technical guidance.
  • a sensitive detection agent is used to screen the soothing substances for cosmetics in the form of a facial mask. This method is simple to operate and requires lower requirements for operators. The subject can determine whether the facial mask is comfortable or not. The conclusion of sensitive effect is more gentle and effective than other test methods.
  • the present invention screens and verifies the soothing substances by directly applying the mask on the face.
  • the experimental results obtained are more intuitive, closer to the real situation of the human body, and can be used more truthfully and objectively for the screening and verification of soothing substances.
  • the activity of soothing substances is known.
  • Phenoxyethanol Phenoxyethanol (PE) as a preservative and bactericide is a common ingredient in the cosmetic production process, but at the same time phenoxyethanol is also an irritant to the skin.
  • the choice of phenoxyethanol, a commonly used raw material for cosmetics, has good acceptance for consumers.
  • the concentration is controlled within the 1% limit range to ensure the safety of the present invention.
  • the addition amount of phenoxyethanol as a sensitive detection agent is preferably 0.01-1.0%.
  • Lactic acid has good biocompatibility, has the effects of wrinkle removal, skin care, and brightening. It can also effectively adjust the pH of cosmetics to make it closer to the human body. Therefore, it is widely used in skin care products to improve dry skin And keratinization phenomenon. But lactic acid has a certain irritation and is one of the typical irritation sources for detecting skin sensitivity. In the present invention, the addition amount of lactic acid as a sensitive detection agent is preferably 4.0 to 6.0%.
  • Capsaicin is a high-quality natural pigment found in red pepper. It has bright color, good thermal stability, safety and reliability. It can be added as a natural pigment in cosmetics. At the same time, capsaicin has the effect of activating blood vessels. , Can make the complexion rosy and shiny. Although capsaicin is not in the list of cosmetics and is not a common raw material in cosmetics, it is used as one of the common typical irritation sources for detecting skin sensitivity due to its strong irritation. In the present invention, capsaicin is only used for testing, and the addition amount of capsaicin as a sensitive detection agent is preferably 0.01-0.03%.
  • Sodium dodecyl sulfonate is a commonly used surfactant in cosmetics, which has good emulsification, penetration and dispersion properties. However, high concentrations of SDS can quickly cause cell membrane damage, causing obvious cell rupture to cause hemolysis. Therefore, SDS is a commonly used standard stimulus source in existing stimulation experiments. In the present invention, the addition amount of SDS as a sensitive detection agent is preferably 5.0-8.0%.
  • Hydroxybenzoate is mainly used as a bactericidal preservative in cosmetics. It can destroy the cell membrane of microorganisms, denature the protein in the cell, and has a broad-spectrum antibacterial effect. However, excessive use of hydroxybenzoic acid esters in cosmetics can cause contact dermatitis and allergic dermatitis.
  • the maximum concentration of hydroxybenzoic acid esters used in the Cosmetic Hygiene Specification is 0.4%.
  • hydroxybenzene The addition amount of formate as a sensitive detection agent is preferably 0.1-0.3%.
  • Figure 1 shows the trial results of the facial masks of Examples 1-11.
  • Figure 2 is a statistical chart of the number of stinging people after using masks A, B, and C.
  • Figure 3 is a statistical chart of different degrees of tingling after using masks A, B and C.
  • Figure 4 is a statistical chart showing different degrees of tightness after using masks A, B, and C.
  • facial masks it should be understood in a broad sense. It can be a facial mask with a carrier that can be applied directly, or it can be a smear-type liquid or slurry.
  • the mask is in a form that has a carrier that can be applied directly, it is formed by adsorbing the mask liquid on the mask substrate as the carrier.
  • the method of adsorbing the mask liquid on the mask substrate is a general technology in the field. Among them, it is preferable that the size of the mask substrate is 300 to 350 cm 2 , the amount of liquid in the mask liquid in the single sheet mask substrate is 17.5 to 22.5 g, and the amount of liquid in the mask is 0.05 to 0.075 g/cm 2 .
  • the application part of the mask is not limited to the face, but can be applied to other parts of the human body, such as the neck and arms.
  • Soothing substances refer to substances that can be added to cosmetics with anti-sensitivity and anti-irritation activities, such as plant extracts, polysaccharides, polyphenols, flavonoids, alkaloids and other substances. Any sensitive activating substance commonly used in the art can be used as a soothing substance in the present invention.
  • Example 1 A facial mask for detecting sensitive skin
  • the components of the mask liquid are shown in the following table.
  • the xanthan gum is first dispersed with 1,3-butanediol and then heated to 80-85°C by adding water, stirring and dissolving uniformly, and keeping it warm for 15 minutes. After cooling to 40-45°C, add phase B in sequence, stir for 15-25 minutes, then turn to low speed stirring and cool to 30-35°C before discharging.
  • Preparation of the mask Fill the mask liquid into a mask bag containing a folded mask base material.
  • the mask base material used is a non-woven fabric, the area of the mask base material is 350 square centimeters, and the amount of mask liquid poured is 17.5 g.
  • Example 2 A facial mask for detecting sensitive skin
  • the components of the facial mask liquid are shown in the following table, and the preparation of the facial mask liquid and the facial mask is the same as that described in Example 1. This mask is labeled as Mask A.
  • Example 3 A facial mask for detecting sensitive skin
  • the components of the facial mask liquid are shown in the following table.
  • the mask substrate used is a non-woven fabric
  • the area of the mask substrate is 300 square centimeters
  • the pouring amount of the facial mask liquid is 22.5 g
  • the rest are the same as those described in Example 1.
  • Example 4 A facial mask for detecting sensitive skin
  • the components of the facial mask liquid are shown in the following table, and the preparation of the facial mask liquid and the facial mask is the same as that described in Example 1.
  • Embodiment 5 A facial mask for detecting sensitive skin
  • the components of the facial mask liquid are shown in the following table, and the preparation of the facial mask liquid and the facial mask is the same as that described in Example 1.
  • Example 6 A facial mask for detecting sensitive skin
  • the components of the facial mask liquid are shown in the following table, and the preparation of the facial mask liquid and the facial mask is the same as that described in Example 1.
  • Example 7 A facial mask for detecting sensitive skin
  • the components of the facial mask liquid are shown in the following table, and the preparation of the facial mask liquid and the facial mask is the same as that described in Example 1.
  • Example 8 A facial mask for detecting sensitive skin
  • the components of the facial mask liquid are shown in the following table, and the preparation of the facial mask liquid and the facial mask is the same as that described in Example 1.
  • Table 8 The composition of the mask liquid with SDS as the sensitive detection agent
  • Example 9 A facial mask for detecting sensitive skin
  • the components of the facial mask liquid are shown in the following table, and the preparation of the facial mask liquid and the facial mask is the same as that described in Example 1.
  • Example 10 A facial mask for detecting sensitive skin
  • the components of the facial mask liquid are shown in the following table, and the preparation of the facial mask liquid and the facial mask is the same as that described in Example 1.
  • Example 11 A facial mask for detecting sensitive skin
  • the components of the facial mask liquid are shown in the following table, and the preparation of the facial mask liquid and the facial mask is the same as that described in Example 1.
  • the use test of the facial masks of Examples 1-11 was carried out, and a facial mask containing no sensitive detection agent and only a cosmetic base was used as a control group (the components of the control facial mask liquid were: 1,3-butanediol 3.0%, xanthogen Gum 0.2%, glycerol 2.0%, NaCl 1.0%, water 93.8%).
  • the inventors also commented on the content of 4.0% lactic acid, 5.0% lactic acid, 0.03% capsaicin, 5% sodium dodecyl sulfonate, 7% sodium dodecyl sulfonate, 0.2% hydroxybenzoate and 0.3% hydroxybenzene
  • the formate mask was tried and the same effect was obtained, indicating that the mask containing the above concentration of sensitive detection agent can be used to screen sensitive skin.
  • Example 13 A facial mask added with soothing substances
  • Example 2 On the basis of the above-mentioned mask of Example 2 (label the mask prepared in Example 2 as mask A), add the soothing effect SymSitive1609 to the mask liquid to prepare a mask containing soothing substances.
  • the mask liquid of this mask The components of the mask are shown in the following table. The preparation method of the mask liquid and mask is the same as that described in Example 1. This mask is labeled as Mask B.
  • the Sumin raw material SymSitive 1609 selected in this example was purchased from Dezhixin (Shanghai) Co., Ltd.
  • the corresponding name of this substance in the "List of Names of Used Cosmetic Ingredients (2015) Edition” is 4-tert-butylcyclohexanol, which has a relatively high Good to soothe the sensitive skin.
  • Example 14 A facial mask added with soothing substances
  • the soothing material phenoxyethanol partner selected in this example was purchased from Beijing Dongfang Miaosen Biotechnology Co., Ltd. It is known that the material has the effect of soothing skin sensitivity caused by phenoxyethanol.
  • Figure 2 shows the statistics of the number of people with tingling pain after applying masks A to C. It can be seen from Figure 2 that for the A mask, 10 of the subjects did not have a tingling sensation, and 8 people had a tingling sensation, indicating that the A mask containing phenoxyethanol can be used to screen people with sensitive skin; After adding the soothing ingredients to the A mask (B and C masks), for the B mask, 11 people had no tingling sensation, 7 people had the tingling sensation, and for the C mask, 12 people had no tingling. Feeling, 6 people had a tingling sensation. It was found that the number of people with stinging pain decreased, indicating that the added soothing materials can relieve the stimulation of phenoxyethanol and have a certain soothing effect. Among them, the soothing effect of phenoxyethanol partner is better than SymSitive1609.
  • Figure 3 shows the statistics of different degrees of tingling after using masks A to C. It can be seen that mask C has the most no tingling sensation, mask B caused the most moderate tingling sensation, and mask A caused strong tingling. The most sensation, indicating that the tingling sensation caused by the B mask is stronger than that of the C group.
  • Figure 4 shows the statistics of different degrees of tightness after using facial masks A to C. It can be seen that the most people who have no tightness after using facial masks A, B, and C illustrate the tightness caused by facial masks A, B, and C. Weak, where A mask can cause slight tightness.
  • mask B caused more irritation than mask C (not significant by T test), and was less mild than mask C (not significant by T test). Among them, it caused more irritation on cheeks and nose than C mask. The number of masks is large.
  • phenoxyethanol partner corresponding to C mask, content 0.1%) has better soothing activity than SymSitive 1609 (corresponding to B mask, content 0.5%), that is, the method of the present invention can be applied to compare different comforts Soothing activity of sensitive substances, so as to evaluate the anti-sensitive activity of different soothing substances.
  • Example 16 A facial mask added with cactus extract
  • the preparation method of cactus extract is as follows: take fresh cactus, wash it, peel it, cut it into small pieces, beat it with a pulverizer, add 3 times the weight of the cactus to deionized water and extract for 1 hour to obtain a slurry, which is filtered and centrifuged The supernatant is obtained, and the supernatant is concentrated and freeze-dried to obtain the cactus extract.
  • Example 6 The facial masks prepared in Example 6 and Example 16 were applied to humans, and 20 healthy subjects were selected from 25 to 40 years old, including 4 male subjects and 16 female subjects.
  • the subject's screening requirements and experimental process are the same as those described in Example 15.
  • the D mask with the sensitive detection agent lactic acid can be effectively used to screen people with sensitive skin.
  • 14 people have a irritation response to the D mask; while the D mask added with cactus extract After the E mask, the number of people who felt irritation decreased significantly, indicating that cactus extract can effectively relieve the stimulation of lactic acid, that is, cactus extract has soothing activity.
  • the method of the present invention can not only be used to screen substances with soothing activity, but also can be used to evaluate the soothing activity of existing soothing substances. It can also be used to determine the specific soothing properties of soothing substances.
  • the activity is explored, providing technical guidance for the preparation of low irritation, high temperature and cosmetics.
  • the method of the present invention can draw conclusions by applying a facial mask on the face. Compared with other animal experiments and cell experiments, the method is more true and reliable, and can accurately reflect the real condition of the human body.
  • the method of the present invention is simple and easy to operate without additional equipment. .

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Abstract

一种利用敏感检测剂评价化妆品用舒敏物质的方法,包括如下步骤:1)制备用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜,面膜包括面膜基材和面膜液,面膜液中含有化妆品基质和敏感检测剂;2)在步骤1)的面膜液中添加舒敏物质,制备添加舒敏物质的面膜;3)分别在面部敷用步骤1)和步骤2)所制备的面膜,感知刺激,根据皮肤对敏感检测剂的刺激响应情况评价舒敏物质是否具有舒敏活性。评价方法操作简便,对操作人员要求较低,实验结果更加客观真实,具有操作简便,实验结果客观真实、灵敏度高的优点。

Description

一种化妆品用舒敏物质的评价方法 技术领域
本发明属于化妆品技术领域,具体涉及一种化妆品用舒敏物质的评价方法。
背景技术
敏感性皮肤特指皮肤在生理或病理条件下发生的一种高反应状态,主要发生于面部,临床表现为受到物理、化学、精神等因素刺激时皮肤易出现灼热、刺痛、瘙痒及紧绷感等主观症状,伴或不伴红斑、鳞屑、毛细血管扩张等客观体征。敏感性皮肤可能的触发因素主要有:(1)物理因素:如季节交替、温度变化、日晒;(2)化学因素:如化妆品、清洁用品、消毒产品、维A酸等刺激性外用药、环境污染物(如雾霾、灰尘、尾气)等;(3)精神因素:如焦虑、抑郁等。敏感性皮肤在世界各国均有较高的发生率,其中,亚洲女性发生率为40%~55.98%,我国女性发生率约为36.1%。近年来,一方面随着环境污染,精神压力的增大,使得敏感性皮肤发病率不断增高;另一方面随着人们生活水平的提高和对敏感性皮肤认识的提高,敏感皮肤的感知率和关注度逐渐上升。由此,具有抗敏感、抗刺激功效的化妆品日益受到人们的重视,而具有抗敏感、抗刺激功效的物质在化妆品领域也受到了广大研发人员的青睐。
目前,已经针对敏感皮肤开发和筛选出了多种能够应用于化妆品的抗敏感物质(舒敏物质),同时也具有多种针对众多不同侧重点的舒敏物质的活性评价实验,包括体外实验、动物实验、人体实验、细胞实验以及斑贴模型法等,针对性有促进屏障功能、神经镇静、抑制炎症反应之分。然而,当前国内对化妆品用舒敏物质的研究还处于起步阶段,现有的评价方法通常需要在特定的环境下才能完成,对操作者要求很高,而且实验结果与人体使用结果往往存在较大差异,无法真实地反映舒敏物质对敏感皮肤的抗敏感效果。并且,采用体内模型测定物质的抗过敏活性用时较长,花费较多。因此,急需要建立一种体外快速评价化妆品用舒敏物质的方法。
发明内容
为了克服上述不足,本发明旨在提供了一种简便易行、灵敏度高、结果客观真实的用于筛选化妆品用舒敏物质的方法。
本发明的原理为:
(1)制备一种用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜
其中,所述面膜包括面膜布和面膜液,所述面膜液含有化妆品基质和敏感检测剂组成。
其中,所述敏感检测剂为苯氧乙醇、乳酸、辣椒素、十二烷基硫酸钠和羟基苯甲酸酯中的任意一种。
其中,所述化妆品基质由以下重量百分比的原料组成:
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000001
余量的水。
其中,所述的面膜的制备方法,包括以下步骤:
1)将黄原胶用1,3-丁二醇分散后加水升温至80~85℃,搅拌溶解均匀,保温15min,得混合料液;
2)将所述步骤1)得到的混合料液降温至40~45℃后依次加入敏感检测剂,甘油和NaCl,搅拌15~25分钟,冷却至30~35℃后,得到面膜液;
3)将所述步骤2)得到的面膜液储存于面膜基材中,得到面膜。
其中,所述的面膜基材为无纺布、蚕丝布、生物纤维、纳米纤维中的任意一种。
面膜的制备过程具体为将面膜液灌装至含有折叠面膜基材的面膜袋中,即得,面膜基材上面膜液的带液量为17.5~22.5g。
所制备的面膜在指定配方的面膜液中添加敏感检测剂,消费者在敷用本面膜时通过感知刺激部位与刺激时间,以此用于检测敏感皮肤,具体方法为:将制备的面膜敷于面部,感知是否存在刺激;若存在刺激,记录刺激部位与刺激时间,以此评价皮肤敏感程度。
其中,所述刺激包括刺痛、瘙痒、烧灼、紧绷、麻刺、瘙痒中的任意一种或多种感觉。
(2)在上述制备的用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜的面膜液中加入一种疑似具有舒敏活性的舒敏物质后,制成面膜,分别敷用未添加上述舒敏物质的面膜和添加了上述舒敏物质的面膜,根据人体面部皮肤对两种面膜的刺激的响应程度来评价该舒敏物质是否具有舒敏活性,以此来筛选化妆品用舒敏物质。
基于以上描述,作为本发明的第一方面,本发明提供了一种利用敏感检测剂评价化妆品用舒敏物质的方法。
作为优选,所述方法通过检测添加舒敏物质前后皮肤对敏感检测剂的刺激响应情况来评价该舒敏物质是否具有舒敏活性。
作为优选,所述的敏感检测剂被制备成面膜,通过将面膜敷于人体皮肤来检测皮肤对敏感检测剂的刺激响应情况。
作为优选,所述方法包括如下步骤:
1)制备用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜,所述面膜包括面膜基材和面膜液,所述面膜液中含有化妆品基质和敏感检测剂;
2)在上述步骤1)的面膜液中添加舒敏物质,制备含有该舒敏物质的面膜;
3)分别敷用上述步骤1)和步骤2)所制备的面膜,感知刺激,根据皮肤对敏感检测剂的刺激响应情况评价该舒敏物质是否具有舒敏活性。
作为优选,所述的敏感检测剂为苯氧乙醇、乳酸、辣椒素、十二烷基硫酸钠和羟基苯甲酸酯中的任意一种或几种。
作为优选,所述的化妆品基质由以下重量百分比的原料组成:
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000002
余量的水。
作为优选,所述的刺激包括灼烧、刺痛、紧绷、麻刺、瘙痒中的任意一种或多种感觉。
作为优选,其中,步骤1)的面膜的制备包括以下步骤:
1)将黄原胶用1,3-丁二醇分散后加水升温至80~85℃,搅拌溶解均匀,保温15min,得混合料液;
2)将所述步骤1)得到的混合料液降温至40~45℃后依次加入敏感检测剂,甘油和NaCl,搅拌15~25分钟,冷却至30~35℃后,得到面膜液;
3)将所述步骤2)得到的面膜液储存于面膜基材中,即得面膜。
作为优选,其中,步骤2)的面膜的制备包括以下步骤:
1)将黄原胶用1,3-丁二醇分散后加水升温至80~85℃,搅拌溶解均匀,保温15min,得混合料液;
2)将所述步骤1)得到的混合料液降温至40~45℃后依次加入敏感检测剂,甘油,NaCl和舒敏物质,搅拌15~25分钟,冷却至30~35℃后,得到面膜液;
3)将所述步骤2)得到的面膜液储存于面膜基材中,即得面膜。
作为优选,所述的面膜基材为无纺布、蚕丝布、生物纤维、纳米纤维中的任意一种。
作为本发明的第二方面,本发明提供一种利用面膜评价化妆品用舒敏物质的方法。
作为优选,所述方法包括如下步骤:
1)制备用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜,所述面膜包括面膜基材和面膜液,所述面膜液中含有化妆品基质和敏感检测剂;
2)在上述步骤1)的面膜液中添加舒敏物质,制备含有该舒敏物质的面膜;
3)分别敷用上述步骤1)和步骤2)所制备的面膜,感知刺激,根据皮肤对敏感检测剂的刺激响应情况评价该舒敏物质是否具有舒敏活性。
作为优选,所述的敏感检测剂为苯氧乙醇、乳酸、辣椒素、十二烷基硫酸钠和羟基苯甲酸酯中的任意一种或几种。
作为优选,所述的化妆品基质由以下重量百分比的原料组成:
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000003
余量的水。
作为优选,所述的刺激包括灼烧、刺痛、紧绷、麻刺、瘙痒中的任意一种或多种感觉。
作为优选,其中,步骤1)的面膜的制备包括以下步骤:
1)将黄原胶用1,3-丁二醇分散后加水升温至80~85℃,搅拌溶解均匀,保温15min,得混合料液;
2)将所述步骤1)得到的混合料液降温至40~45℃后依次加入敏感检测剂,甘油和NaCl,搅拌15~25分钟,冷却至30~35℃后,得到面膜液;
3)将所述步骤2)得到的面膜液储存于面膜基材中,即得面膜。
作为优选,其中,步骤2)的面膜的制备包括以下步骤:
1)将黄原胶用1,3-丁二醇分散后加水升温至80~85℃,搅拌溶解均匀,保温15min,得混合料液;
2)将所述步骤1)得到的混合料液降温至40~45℃后依次加入敏感检测剂,甘油,NaCl和舒敏物质,搅拌15~25分钟,冷却至30~35℃后,得到面膜液;
3)将所述步骤2)得到的面膜液储存于面膜基材中,即得面膜。
作为优选,所述的面膜基材为无纺布、蚕丝布、生物纤维、纳米纤维中的任意一种。
作为本发明的第三方面,本发明提供一种面膜,所述面膜中包括敏感检测剂和舒敏物质。
作为优选,所述面膜包括面膜基材和面膜液,所述面膜液中含有敏感检测剂和舒敏物质。
作为优选,所述的面膜液中含有的敏感检测剂为苯氧乙醇、乳酸、辣椒素、十二烷基硫酸钠和羟基苯甲酸酯中的任意一种或几种。
作为优选,当敏感检测剂为苯氧乙醇时,所述面膜液中含有的苯氧乙醇的重量百分比为0.01~1.0%。
作为优选,当敏感检测剂为乳酸时,所述面膜液中含有的乳酸的重量百分比为4.0~6.0%。
作为优选,当敏感检测剂为辣椒素时,所述面膜液中含有的辣椒素的重量百分比为0.01~0.03%。
作为优选,当敏感检测剂为十二烷基磺酸钠时,所述面膜液中含有的十二烷基磺酸钠的重量百分比为5.0~8.0%。
作为优选,当敏感检测剂为羟基苯甲酸酯时,所述面膜液中含有的羟基苯甲酸酯的重量百分比为0.1~0.3%。
作为优选,所述的面膜液中还含有化妆品基质。
作为优选,所述化妆品基质由以下重量百分比的原料组成:
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000004
余量的水。
作为优选,所述的面膜基材为无纺布、蚕丝布、生物纤维、纳米纤维中的任意一种。
作为本发明的第四方面,本发明提供一种敏感检测剂作为评价化妆品用舒敏物质是否具有舒敏活性的新用途。
作为优选,所述敏感检测剂用于筛选化妆品用舒敏物质。
作为优选,所述敏感检测剂用于对化妆品用舒敏物质的舒敏活性进行验证。
作为优选,所述敏感检测剂用于对两种或多种化妆品舒敏物质的舒敏活性进行比较。
作为优选,通过检测添加舒敏物质前后皮肤对敏感检测剂的刺激响应情况来评价该舒敏物质是否具有舒敏活性。
作为优选,所述的敏感检测剂被制备成面膜,通过将面膜敷于人体皮肤来检测皮肤对敏感检测剂的刺激响应情况。
作为优选,评价舒敏物质是否具有舒敏活性的方法,包括如下步骤:
1)制备用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜,所述面膜包括面膜基材和面膜液,所述面膜液中含有化妆品基质和敏感检测剂;
2)在上述步骤1)的面膜液中添加舒敏物质,制备含有该舒敏物质的面膜;
3)分别敷用上述步骤1)和步骤2)所制备的面膜,感知刺激,根据皮肤对敏感检测剂的刺激响应情况评价该舒敏物质是否具有舒敏活性。
作为优选,所述的敏感检测剂为苯氧乙醇、乳酸、辣椒素、十二烷基硫酸钠和羟基苯甲酸酯中的任意一种或几种。
作为优选,所述的化妆品基质由以下重量百分比的原料组成:
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000005
余量的水。
作为优选,所述的刺激包括灼烧、刺痛、紧绷、麻刺、瘙痒中的任意一种或多种感觉。
需要理解的是,本发明的发明包括以下三个方面的含义:(1)用于筛选化妆品用舒敏物质,即本发明的方法能够用于筛选具有舒敏活性的物质,从而为低刺激、高温和化妆品的制备筛选新的能够发挥舒敏活性的原料(2)用于进行舒敏物质的舒敏活性验证,即本发明的方法可以对某一已知舒敏物质的抗敏感活性进行验证,具体地,可以验证其活性大小,验证其是具体是通过缓解刺痛、还是瘙痒、还是灼烧、还是紧绷、还是麻刺来发挥抗敏感活性;(3)用于对不同舒敏物质的舒敏活性进行比较,即本发明的方法可以用来对多种舒敏物质的抗敏感活性进行对比,从而更全面的了解不同种类舒敏物质的抗敏感活性,为化妆品中舒敏物质的添加量提供技术指导。
有益效果:
(1)本发明首次利用敏感检测剂,以面膜的形式来筛选化妆品用舒敏物质,该方法操作简便,对操作人员要求较低,受试者在敷用面膜时就能得出是否具有舒敏效果的结论,相较于其他测试方法更加温和有效。
(2)本发明通过将面膜直接敷于面部来进行舒敏物质的筛选和验证,所得实验结果更为直观,更接近人体真实情况,能更真实和客观的用于筛选舒敏物质,以及验证已知舒敏物质的 活性。
本发明的面膜所用敏感检测剂具有如下所述的特点:
苯氧乙醇:苯氧乙醇(PE)作为防腐杀菌剂是化妆生产过程中的常用成分,但同时苯氧乙醇也是对皮肤的刺激物。选择化妆品常用原料苯氧乙醇对消费者来说具有较好的接受度。安全性方面,严格按照《化妆品安全技术规范》相关要求,控制浓度在1%限用范围,以保证本发明的安全性。在本发明中,以苯氧乙醇作为敏感检测剂的添加量优选0.01~1.0%。
乳酸:乳酸具有良好的生物相容性,具有去皱、护肤、增亮的功效,并且还可以有效调节化妆品的pH,使其更接近于人体,因此被广泛应用于护肤品中以改善肌肤干燥及角质化现象。但乳酸具有一定的刺激性,是检测皮肤敏感的典型刺激源之一。在本发明中,以乳酸作为敏感检测剂的添加量优选4.0~6.0%。
辣椒素:辣椒素是存在于红辣椒中的优质天然色素,具有鲜艳的色泽、良好的热稳定性、安全性和可靠性,可作为天然色素添加在化妆品中,同时辣椒素具有活化血管的作用,能够使脸色红润有光泽。辣椒素虽然不在化妆品名录中,不属于化妆品中的常用原料,但因其具有较强的刺激性,被作为检测皮肤敏感的常用典型刺激源之一。在本发明中,辣椒素只做测试使用,以辣椒素作为敏感检测剂的添加量优选0.01~0.03%。
十二烷基磺酸钠:十二烷基磺酸钠(SDS)是化妆品中常用的表面活性剂,其具有良好的乳化、渗透和分散性能。然而,高浓度的SDS能够迅速导致细胞膜的损伤,使细胞发生明显的破裂造而成溶血现象,因此,SDS是现有刺激实验中常用的标准刺激源。在本发明中,以SDS作为敏感检测剂的添加量优选5.0~8.0%。
羟基苯甲酸酯:羟基苯甲酸酯在化妆品中主要作为杀菌防腐剂,其能够破坏微生物的细胞膜,使细胞内的蛋白质变性,具有广谱的抗菌作用。但是在化妆品中过量使用羟基苯甲酸酯会引发接触性皮炎和过敏性皮炎,在《化妆品卫生规范》中规定羟基苯甲酸酯类使用的最大浓度为0.4%,在本发明中,以羟基苯甲酸酯作为敏感检测剂的添加量优选0.1~0.3%。
附图说明
图1是实施例1-11的面膜的试用结果。
图2是使用A、B、C面膜后的刺痛人数统计图。
图3是使用A、B、C面膜后产生不同程度刺痛的统计图。
图4是使用A、B、C面膜后产生不同程度紧绷的统计图。
具体实施方式
下面结合实施例,更具体地说明本发明的内容。应当理解,本发明的实施并不局限于下面的实施例,对本发明所做的任何形式上的变通和/或改变都将落入本发明保护范围。
在本发明中,若非特指,所有的份、百分比均为重量单位,所有的设备和原料等均可从市场购得或是本行业常用的。若无特别指明,实施例采用的方法为本领域通用技术。
面膜
对于面膜,应做广义的理解,可以为具有载体能够直接敷用的面膜,也可以为涂抹式的液体或浆体。当面膜为具有载体能够直接敷用的形式时,是通过将面膜液吸附在作为载体的面膜基材上所形成,面膜液吸附在面膜基材上的方法为本领域的通用技术,在本发明中,优选面膜基材的尺寸为300~350cm 2,单片面膜基材中面膜液的带液量为17.5~22.5g,面膜的带液量为0.05~0.075g/cm 2。面膜的敷用部位不仅仅限于面部,可以敷在人体其他部位,例如颈部、手臂等。
舒敏物质
舒敏物质是指能够添加与化妆品中具有抗敏感、抗刺激活性的物质,例如植物提取物、多糖、多酚、黄酮、生物碱等物质。本领域常用的任何具有敏感激活性的物质均可作为舒敏物质应用于本发明中。
实施例1 一种用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜
面膜液的制备:面膜液的组分如下表所示,黄原胶先用1,3-丁二醇分散后加水升温至80-85℃,搅拌溶解均匀,保温15min。降温至40-45℃后依次加入B相,搅拌15-25分钟,后转低速搅拌冷却至30-35℃后出料。
面膜的制备:将面膜液灌装至含有折叠面膜基材的面膜袋中,其中,所用的面膜基材为无纺布,面膜基材的面积为350平方厘米,面膜液的灌入量为17.5g。
表1 以苯氧乙醇作为敏感检测剂的面膜液组成
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000006
实施例2 一种用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜
面膜液的组分如下表所示,面膜液和面膜的制备同实施例1所述。该面膜被标记为面膜A。
表2 以苯氧乙醇作为敏感检测剂的面膜液组成
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000007
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000008
实施例3 一种用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜
面膜液的组分如下表所示,其中,所用的面膜基材为无纺布,面膜基材的面积为300平方厘米,面膜液的灌入量为22.5g,其余同实施例1所述。
表3 以苯氧乙醇作为敏感检测剂的面膜液组成
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000009
实施例4 一种用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜
面膜液的组分如下表所示,面膜液和面膜的制备同实施例1所述。
表4 以乳酸作为敏感检测剂的面膜液组成
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000010
实施例5 一种用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜
面膜液的组分如下表所示,面膜液和面膜的制备同实施例1所述。
表5 以乳酸作为敏感检测剂的面膜液组成
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000011
实施例6 一种用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜
面膜液的组分如下表所示,面膜液和面膜的制备同实施例1所述。
表6 以乳酸作为敏感检测剂的面膜液组成
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000012
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000013
实施例7 一种用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜
面膜液的组分如下表所示,面膜液和面膜的制备同实施例1所述。
表7 以辣椒素作为敏感检测剂的面膜液组成
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000014
实施例8 一种用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜
面膜液的组分如下表所示,面膜液和面膜的制备同实施例1所述。
表8 以SDS作为敏感检测剂的面膜液组成
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000015
实施例9 一种用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜
面膜液的组分如下表所示,面膜液和面膜的制备同实施例1所述。
表9 以羟基苯甲酸酯作为敏感检测剂的面膜液组成
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000016
实施例10 一种用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜
面膜液的组分如下表所示,面膜液和面膜的制备同实施例1所述。
表10 以苯氧乙醇和乳酸作为敏感检测剂的面膜液组成
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000017
实施例11 一种用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜
面膜液的组分如下表所示,面膜液和面膜的制备同实施例1所述。
表11 以苯氧乙醇和乳酸作为敏感检测剂的面膜液组成
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000018
实施例12 实施例1~11所制备的面膜的试用试验
对实施例1-11的面膜的进行使用试验,同时以不含敏感检测剂只含有化妆品基质的面膜作为对照组(对照组面膜液的组分为:1,3丁二醇3.0%,黄原胶0.2%,甘油2.0%,NaCl 1.0%,水93.8%)。
选年龄段在25岁到40岁健康受试者7名,所有受试者面部皮肤健康光滑,无红斑、脱屑等皮疹,无其他皮肤疾患或系统性疾病。试验前,每位受试者签署知情同意书,洁面后按照平时使用面膜习惯使用受试面膜,并进行自我评价。每位受试者每天使用一种面膜,在试验期间面部不使用其他任何护肤产品,并在试验期间避免过度的日光暴晒。实验结果如图1所示。
从图1的结果可以看出,受试者对0.5%乳酸、1.0%乳酸的刺激感不如0.5%苯氧乙醇和1.0%苯氧乙醇明显,说明苯氧乙醇相较于乳酸具有更强的刺激性,是筛选敏感皮肤人群的良好选择。1.0%的苯氧乙醇的反应率为100%,伴有较低的刺痛感和灼烧感,在受试者可以忍受的范围之内,为较为优选方案。
同时发现,6.0%乳酸、8.0%十二烷基磺酸钠和0.1%羟基苯甲酸酯均能够作为敏感刺激剂用于区分和筛选敏感人群;0.01%辣椒素的反应率为100%,但对皮肤较为敏感的人群来说刺激性较大,其亦可作为敏感刺激剂,但需严格控制其添加量。
在面膜液中同时添加两种敏感检测剂,例如同时添加乳酸和苯氧乙醇所引起的刺激较大,刺痛感和灼烧感更加明显,也更快,但是可能会对敏感人群产生不可忍受的刺痛。
发明人同时对含有4.0%乳酸、5.0%乳酸、0.03%辣椒素、5%十二烷基磺酸钠、7%十二烷基磺酸钠、0.2%羟基苯甲酸酯和0.3%羟基苯甲酸酯的面膜进行了试用,得到了同样的效果,说明含有以上浓度的敏感检测剂的面膜均可以用于筛选敏感皮肤。
上述实验表明含有0.01%~1.0%苯氧乙醇,或4.0%~6.0%乳酸,或0.01%~0.03%辣椒素,或5.0%~8.0%十二烷基苯磺酸钠,或0.1~0.3%羟基苯甲酸酯的面膜均能够用于筛选敏感皮肤,该方法具有安全可靠、有效、全面的优点。
实施例13 一种添加舒敏物质的面膜
在上述实施例2的面膜的基础上(将实施例2所制备的面膜标记为面膜A),在面膜液中添加舒敏功效物SymSitive1609制备一种含舒敏物质的面膜,该面膜的面膜液的组分如下表所示,面膜液和面膜的制备方法同实施例1所述。该面膜被标记为面膜B。
表12 一种添加舒敏物质的面膜液组分
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000019
本实施例中选择的舒敏原料SymSitive1609购买自德之馨(上海)有限公司,此物质在《已使用化妆品原料名称目录(2015)版》中对应的名称为4-叔丁基环己醇,具有较好的舒缓皮肤敏感的作用。
实施例14 一种添加舒敏物质的面膜
在实施例2的面膜的基础上,在面膜液中添加舒敏功效物苯氧乙醇伴侣制备一种含舒敏物质的面膜,该面膜的面膜液的组分如下表所示,面膜液和面膜的制备方法同实施例1所述。该面膜被标记为面膜C。
表13 一种添加舒敏物质的面膜液组分
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000020
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000021
本实施例中选择的舒敏原料苯氧乙醇伴侣购买自北京东方淼森生物科技有限公司,已知该原料具有舒缓苯氧乙醇造成皮肤敏感的功效。
实施例15 实施例2、13、14的面膜的使用评价
选年龄段在25岁到40岁健康受试者18名,其中男受试者2名,女受试者16名,所有受试者面部皮肤健康光滑,无红斑、脱屑等皮疹,无其他皮肤疾患或系统性疾病。试验前,每位受试者签署知情同意书,洁面后按照平时使用面膜习惯使用受试面膜(A、B、C),并进行自我评价。每位受试者每天使用一种面膜,在试验期间面部不使用其他任何护肤产品,并在试验期间避免过度的日光暴晒。
受试者在敷用面膜时感知皮肤出现灼烧、刺痛、紧绷、麻刺、瘙痒的感觉,并记录出现刺激的部位与刺激时间,以此来评价舒敏原料的舒敏功效,具体如下:
1、是否出现不适感,包括刺痛、灼烧、紧绷、麻刺、瘙痒;
2、不适感的程度,包括无感觉、隐约有感觉、轻微感觉、中等感觉、强烈感觉;
3、不适感的出现部位,包括额头、脸颊、鼻翼两侧、眼周。
图2为敷用面膜A~C后,产生刺痛的人数统计。从图2可以看出,对于A面膜,在受试者中有10人没有产生刺痛感觉,有8人产生了刺痛感觉,说明含有苯氧乙醇的A面膜可以用于筛选敏感皮肤人群;在A面膜的基础上加入舒敏原料后(B和C面膜),对于B面膜,有11人没有产生刺痛感觉,7人产生了刺痛感觉,对于C面膜,有12人没有产生刺痛感觉,6人产生了刺痛感觉。发现产生刺痛的人数减少,说明添加的舒敏原料能够缓解苯氧乙醇的刺激,具有一定的舒敏作用,其中,苯氧乙醇伴侣的舒敏功效好于SymSitive1609。
图3为使用A~C面膜后,产生不同程度刺痛的统计,可以看出,选择C面膜无刺痛感的最多,B面膜引起的中等刺痛感最多,A面膜引起的强烈的刺痛感最多,说明B面膜引起的刺痛感较C组强烈。
图4为使用A~C面膜后,产生不同程度紧绷的统计,可以看出,使用A、B、C面膜后无紧绷感的人最多,说明A、B、C面膜引起的紧绷感较弱,其中A面膜能够引起轻微的紧绷。
根据以上所的结论,B面膜引起刺痛的人数较C面膜多(T检验无显著性),温和性较C面膜差(T检验无显著性),其中,引起脸颊、鼻翼的刺痛较C面膜的人数多。
上述数据可以看出苯氧乙醇伴侣(对应C面膜,含量0.1%)相较于SymSitive1609(对应 B面膜,含量0.5%)具有更好的舒敏活性,即本发明的方法能够应用于对比不同舒敏物质的舒敏活性,从而对不同舒敏物质的抗敏感活性做出评价。
实施例16 一种添加仙人掌提取物的面膜
在上述实施例6的面膜的基础上(将实施例6所制备的面膜标记为面膜D),在面膜液中添加仙人掌提取物,该面膜的面膜液的组分如下表所示,面膜液和面膜的制备方法同实施例1所述。该面膜被标记为面膜E。
表19 一种添加舒敏物质的面膜液组分
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000022
仙人掌提取物的制备方法如下:取新鲜仙人掌,将其清洗、去皮、切成小块,用粉碎机打浆后加入仙人掌3倍重量的去离子水加热提取1小时得到浆液,浆液经过滤、离心得到上清液,将上清液浓缩、冷冻干燥即得仙人掌提取物。
实施例17 实施例6、16的面膜的使用评价
对实施例6和实施例16所制备的面膜进行人体敷用实验,选年龄段在25岁到40岁健康受试者20名,其中男受试者4名,女受试者16名。受试者的筛选要求及实验过程同实施例15所述。
1、产生敏感刺激的人数统计
Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-000023
从上述结果可以看出,添加敏感检测剂乳酸的D面膜能够有效的用于筛选敏感皮肤人群,在受试者中,有14人对D面膜产生了刺激反应;而敷用添加仙人掌提取物的E面膜后,感觉到刺激的人数明显降低,说明仙人掌提取物能够有效缓解乳酸的刺激,即仙人掌提取物具有舒敏活性。
2、刺激类型统计
  刺痛 紧绷 麻刺 灼烧 瘙痒
D面膜 12 2 3 9 5
E面膜 5 2 2 4 2
从上述结果可以看出,以乳酸作为敏感检测剂引起的刺痛和灼烧最为明显,而添加仙人掌提取物后,能够明显的缓解刺痛,并在一定程度上缓解灼烧和瘙痒,以上结果说明,仙人掌提取物可以作为主要用来缓解刺痛的舒敏物质。仙人掌富含多糖、多酚、黄酮类物质,可能是此类物质发挥主要的抗敏感作用。
综上所述,本发明的方法不仅能够用于筛选具有舒敏活性的物质,而且能够用于对现有舒敏物质的舒敏活性进行评价,也可以对舒敏物质具体具有何种舒敏活性进行探究,为低刺激、高温和化妆品的制备提供了技术指导。本发明的方法通过在面部敷用面膜即可得出结论,相较于其他动物实验、细胞实验更加真实可靠,更能准确反映人体真实状况,并且本发明的方法简单易操作,无需额外仪器设备。
以上所述仅为本发明的优选实施例而已,而不是本发明全部的实施例。上述实施例并不用于限制本发明,对于本领域的技术人员来说,本发明可以有各种更改和变化。凡在本发明的精神和原则范围内,所作的任何修改、等同替换、改进等,均应包含在本发明的保护范围之内。

Claims (37)

  1. 一种利用敏感检测剂评价化妆品用舒敏物质的方法,其特征在于,所述方法通过检测添加舒敏物质前后皮肤对敏感检测剂的刺激响应情况来评价该舒敏物质是否具有舒敏活性。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的方法,其特征在于,所述的敏感检测剂被制备成面膜,通过将面膜敷于人体皮肤来检测皮肤对敏感检测剂的刺激响应情况。
  3. 根据权利要求2所述的方法,其特征在于,所述方法包括如下步骤:
    1)制备用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜,所述面膜包括面膜基材和面膜液,所述面膜液中含有化妆品基质和敏感检测剂;
    2)在上述步骤1)的面膜液中添加舒敏物质,制备含有该舒敏物质的面膜;
    3)分别敷用上述步骤1)和步骤2)所制备的面膜,感知刺激,根据皮肤对敏感检测剂的刺激响应情况评价该舒敏物质是否具有舒敏活性。
  4. 根据权利要求3所述的方法,其特征在于,所述的敏感检测剂为苯氧乙醇、乳酸、辣椒素、十二烷基硫酸钠和羟基苯甲酸酯中的任意一种或几种。
  5. 根据权利要求3所述的方法,其特征在于,所述的化妆品基质由以下重量百分比的原料组成:
    Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-100001
  6. 根据权利要求3所述的方法,其特征在于,所述的刺激包括灼烧、刺痛、紧绷、麻刺、瘙痒中的任意一种或多种感觉。
  7. 根据权利要求5所述的方法,其特征在于,其中,步骤1)的面膜的制备包括以下步骤:
    1)将黄原胶用1,3-丁二醇分散后加水升温至80~85℃,搅拌溶解均匀,保温15min,得混合料液;
    2)将所述步骤1)得到的混合料液降温至40~45℃后依次加入敏感检测剂,甘油和NaCl,搅拌15~25分钟,冷却至30~35℃后,得到面膜液;
    3)将所述步骤2)得到的面膜液储存于面膜基材中,即得面膜。
  8. 根据权利要求5所述的方法,其特征在于,其中,步骤2)的面膜的制备包括以下步骤:
    1)将黄原胶用1,3-丁二醇分散后加水升温至80~85℃,搅拌溶解均匀,保温15min,得混合料液;
    2)将所述步骤1)得到的混合料液降温至40~45℃后依次加入敏感检测剂,甘油,NaCl和舒敏物质,搅拌15~25分钟,冷却至30~35℃后,得到面膜液;
    3)将所述步骤2)得到的面膜液储存于面膜基材中,即得面膜。
  9. 根据权利要求7或8所述的方法,其特征在于,所述的面膜基材为无纺布、蚕丝布、生物纤维、纳米纤维中的任意一种。
  10. 一种利用面膜评价化妆品用舒敏物质的方法,其特征在于,所述方法包括如下步骤:
    1)制备用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜,所述面膜包括面膜基材和面膜液,所述面膜液中含有化妆品基质和敏感检测剂;
    2)在上述步骤1)的面膜液中添加舒敏物质,制备含有该舒敏物质的面膜;
    3)分别敷用上述步骤1)和步骤2)所制备的面膜,感知刺激,根据皮肤对敏感检测剂的刺激响应情况评价该舒敏物质是否具有舒敏活性。
  11. 根据权利要求10所述的方法,其特征在于,所述的敏感检测剂为苯氧乙醇、乳酸、辣椒素、十二烷基硫酸钠和羟基苯甲酸酯中的任意一种或几种。
  12. 根据权利要求10所述的方法,其特征在于,所述的化妆品基质由以下重量百分比的原料组成:
    Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-100002
  13. 根据权利要求10所述的方法,其特征在于,所述的刺激包括灼烧、刺痛、紧绷、麻刺、瘙痒中的任意一种或多种感觉。
  14. 根据权利要求12所述的方法,其特征在于,其中,步骤1)的面膜的制备包括以下步骤:
    1)将黄原胶用1,3-丁二醇分散后加水升温至80~85℃,搅拌溶解均匀,保温15min,得混合料液;
    2)将所述步骤1)得到的混合料液降温至40~45℃后依次加入敏感检测剂,甘油和NaCl,搅拌15~25分钟,冷却至30~35℃后,得到面膜液;
    3)将所述步骤2)得到的面膜液储存于面膜基材中,即得面膜。
  15. 根据权利要求12所述的方法,其特征在于,其中,步骤2)的面膜的制备包括以下步骤:
    1)将黄原胶用1,3-丁二醇分散后加水升温至80~85℃,搅拌溶解均匀,保温15min,得混 合料液;
    2)将所述步骤1)得到的混合料液降温至40~45℃后依次加入敏感检测剂,甘油,NaCl和舒敏物质,搅拌15~25分钟,冷却至30~35℃后,得到面膜液;
    3)将所述步骤2)得到的面膜液储存于面膜基材中,即得面膜。
  16. 根据权利要求14或15所述的方法,其特征在于,所述的面膜基材为无纺布、蚕丝布、生物纤维、纳米纤维中的任意一种。
  17. 一种面膜,其特征在于,所述面膜中包括敏感检测剂和舒敏物质。
  18. 根据权利要求17所述的面膜,其特征在于,所述面膜包括面膜基材和面膜液,所述面膜液中含有敏感检测剂和舒敏物质。
  19. 根据权利要求18所述的面膜,其特征在于,所述的面膜液中含有的敏感检测剂为苯氧乙醇、乳酸、辣椒素、十二烷基硫酸钠和羟基苯甲酸酯中的任意一种或几种。
  20. 根据权利要求19所述的面膜,其特征在于,当敏感检测剂为苯氧乙醇时,所述面膜液中含有的苯氧乙醇的重量百分比为0.01~1.0%。
  21. 根据权利要求19所述的面膜,其特征在于,当敏感检测剂为乳酸时,所述面膜液中含有的乳酸的重量百分比为4.0~6.0%。
  22. 根据权利要求19所述的面膜,其特征在于,当敏感检测剂为辣椒素时,所述面膜液中含有的辣椒素的重量百分比为0.01~0.03%。
  23. 根据权利要求19所述的面膜,其特征在于,当敏感检测剂为十二烷基磺酸钠时,所述面膜液中含有的十二烷基磺酸钠的重量百分比为5.0~8.0%。
  24. 根据权利要求19所述的面膜,其特征在于,当敏感检测剂为羟基苯甲酸酯时,所述面膜液中含有的羟基苯甲酸酯的重量百分比为0.1~0.3%。
  25. 根据权利要求18所述的面膜,其特征在于,所述的面膜液中还含有化妆品基质。
  26. 根据权利要求26所述的面膜,其特征在于,所述化妆品基质由以下重量百分比的原料组成:
    Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-100003
  27. 根据权利要求18所述的面膜,其特征在于,所述的面膜基材为无纺布、蚕丝布、生物纤维、纳米纤维中的任意一种。
  28. 敏感检测剂作为评价化妆品用舒敏物质是否具有舒敏活性的新用途。
  29. 根据权利要求28所述的用途,其特征在于,所述敏感检测剂用于筛选化妆品用舒敏物质。
  30. 根据权利要求28所述的用途,其特征在于,所述敏感检测剂用于对化妆品用舒敏物质的舒敏活性进行验证。
  31. 根据权利要求28所述的用途,其特征在于,所述敏感检测剂用于对两种或多种化妆品舒敏物质的舒敏活性进行比较。
  32. 根据权利要求28所述的用途,其特征在于,通过检测添加舒敏物质前后皮肤对敏感检测剂的刺激响应情况来评价该舒敏物质是否具有舒敏活性。
  33. 根据权利要求32所述的用途,其特征在于,所述的敏感检测剂被制备成面膜,通过将面膜敷于人体皮肤来检测皮肤对敏感检测剂的刺激响应情况。
  34. 根据权利要求33所述的用途,其特征在于,评价舒敏物质是否具有舒敏活性的方法,包括如下步骤:
    1)制备用于检测敏感皮肤的面膜,所述面膜包括面膜基材和面膜液,所述面膜液中含有化妆品基质和敏感检测剂;
    2)在上述步骤1)的面膜液中添加舒敏物质,制备含有该舒敏物质的面膜;
    3)分别敷用上述步骤1)和步骤2)所制备的面膜,感知刺激,根据皮肤对敏感检测剂的刺激响应情况评价该舒敏物质是否具有舒敏活性。
  35. 根据权利要求34所述的用途,其特征在于,所述的敏感检测剂为苯氧乙醇、乳酸、辣椒素、十二烷基硫酸钠和羟基苯甲酸酯中的任意一种或几种。
  36. 根据权利要求34所述的用途,其特征在于,所述的化妆品基质由以下重量百分比的原料组成:
    Figure PCTCN2020085326-appb-100004
  37. 根据权利要求34所述的用途,其特征在于,所述的刺激包括灼烧、刺痛、紧绷、麻刺、 瘙痒中的任意一种或多种感觉。
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