WO2020235789A1 - Composition cosmétique pour les lèvres offrant une meilleure longévité et une amélioration de la sensation de sécheresse - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique pour les lèvres offrant une meilleure longévité et une amélioration de la sensation de sécheresse Download PDF

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WO2020235789A1
WO2020235789A1 PCT/KR2020/003261 KR2020003261W WO2020235789A1 WO 2020235789 A1 WO2020235789 A1 WO 2020235789A1 KR 2020003261 W KR2020003261 W KR 2020003261W WO 2020235789 A1 WO2020235789 A1 WO 2020235789A1
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fluorine
oil
weight
cosmetic composition
composition
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PCT/KR2020/003261
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English (en)
Korean (ko)
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정선아
김정아
윤성원
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주식회사 엘지생활건강
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/69—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing fluorine
    • A61K8/70—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing fluorine containing perfluoro groups, e.g. perfluoroethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/897—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing halogen, e.g. fluorosilicones
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for lips that contains a large amount of volatile oil and has improved durability and dryness.
  • a lip fluid formulation that seeks a long lasting effect, it is manufactured in a water-in-oil type W/O emulsion type or a small amount of non-volatile oil is prescribed in the oil formulation to improve dryness, but in this case, it causes bleeding and bleeding, resulting in persistence. There is a problem of dropping.
  • Korean Patent Application Publication No. 10-2018-0129694 is a water-in-oil type emulsifier containing an acrylic film forming agent, a volatile oil, purified water, a thickener, and an emulsifier, and it is about improved water resistance by including a coating agent in the water-in-oil type formulation. If it contains an aqueous phase, it gives a moist and soft feeling of use rather than an oil-dispersion formulation made of an emulsion, but there is a problem in that it is vulnerable to smearing and bleeding, that is, lasting power of the lip makeup. In addition, when the water is dry, dryness is induced and dead skin cells are highlighted, as in oil dispersion, and there is a problem that the dryness is not fundamentally resolved.
  • the prior art for improving the dryness in the oil dispersion formulation is disclosed in Korean Patent Application Publication No. 10-2014-0122582.
  • This relates to a cosmetic composition for lips and is characterized by containing distearyl maleate, which is a non-volatile oil.
  • distearylmalate slows the evaporation rate of moisture on the lips, reduces dryness of the lips, and has the effect of sustaining the color of the lips, but the raw material has an alkyl group having 18 carbon atoms formed at both ends, so it has a hydrophobic property. It is strong, and there is a problem that the feeling of use is heavy and stuffy when applied to the lips.
  • the raw material has a long chain structure with an alkyl group having 18 carbon atoms and has a lipophilic property, and viscosity increases due to the long chain structure and lipophilic properties, resulting in a problem of stickiness and greasy lips. Accordingly, there is a problem in that the color of the lips is not maintained for a long time because the lips must be frequently wiped with a cotton pad or tissue in order to eliminate the stickiness and greasyness of the lips.
  • the problem to be solved by the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition for lips that does not contain an aqueous phase or non-volatile oil in order to solve the problems of the prior art, does not deteriorate persistence, and has improved dryness and tight feeling.
  • the inventors of the present invention when including a fluorine-based oil and a fluorine-based silicone wax together in the oil dispersion formulation containing a large amount of volatile oil and a coating agent of the present invention, formulation stability and A surprising discovery that not only the durability but also the dry feeling and the feeling of use are remarkably improved, the present invention has been completed.
  • the present invention provides a cosmetic composition for lips comprising a fluorine-based oil and a fluorine-based silicone wax.
  • the inventors of the present invention when including a fluorine-based oil having excellent oil resistance and water resistance in a volatile oil solvent in which the coating agent is dissolved, provides a moist and soft feeling to the cosmetic formulation for lips, unlike non-volatile oils that reduce the persistence, while adding to water or oil. It was found that the lip makeup was not easily removed and the persistence was strengthened.
  • fluorine-based oils are poor in compatibility with both handmade and emulsions, and separation occurs even when a small amount of less than 1% by weight is prescribed in an oil dispersion formulation, and formulation stability is poor when prescribed alone.
  • the inventors of the present invention have applied various stabilizers or thickeners to solve the problem that the fluorine-based oil deteriorates the formulation stability.
  • the formulation stability is remarkably improved with the increase in viscosity, and water resistance.
  • a lip fluid formulation with improved dryness and lasting power was realized by imparting oil resistance.
  • the fluorine-based oil may be a compound that can be used in a conventional cosmetic composition for lips, polyperfluoromethylisopropyl ether, polyperfluoroethoxymethoxy difluoroethyl PEG phosphate, poly Perfluoroethoxymethoxy difluorohydroxyethyl ether, polyoxyperfluoroalkane, perfluoropolymethylether, perfluorinated polyether, perfluorodecalin, perfluorodimethylcyclohexane, and purple Luoromethylcyclopentane It may include any one or more selected from the group consisting of, but is not limited thereto.
  • the fluorine-based oil may include polyperfluoromethylisopropyl ether, which may be represented by the following formula (1).
  • polyperfluoromethyl isopropyl ether When the polyperfluoromethyl isopropyl ether is included, a moist and soft feeling of use is imparted to the cosmetic formulation for lips, and the lasting power is remarkably improved.
  • n and m are each independently an integer of 1 to 100, and n/m may be 5 to 50, preferably 10 to 45, more preferably 20 to 40.
  • the molecular weight of the polyperfluoromethylisopropyl ether may be 800 to 8000, preferably 1000 to 7000, more preferably 1500 to 6250.
  • the polyperfluoromethylisopropyl ether may be a product of the brand name Fomblin HC-04.
  • the fluorine-based oil may be included in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.3 to 4% by weight, and more preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. If the fluorine-based oil is less than 0.1% by weight, the effect of increasing the persistence and feeling of use of the cosmetic may not be sufficiently exhibited, and if it is more than 5% by weight, the formulation stability may be deteriorated.
  • the fluorine-based silicone wax has excellent compatibility with the fluorine-based oil in the fluorine portion of the compound, and a compound having excellent compatibility with an organic material by a long-chain alkyl group in the compound may be used.
  • a compound having excellent compatibility with an organic material by a long-chain alkyl group in the compound may be used.
  • perfluorononylethylstearyldimethicone may be used as the fluorine-based silicone wax.
  • the perfluorononylethylstearyldimethicone may be represented by the following formula (2).
  • l, m, and n may each independently be an integer of 1 to 100.
  • the n/m may be 1 to 20, preferably 1 to 10, more preferably 1 to 7.
  • the perfluorononylethylstearyldimethicone may be in the form of a solid wax at room temperature, which n/m is 2 to 20, preferably 2 to 4, and m is any one of 20 to 25 It can be an integer.
  • the cosmetic composition containing the solid wax form of perfluorononylethylstearyldimethicone significantly improves not only formulation stability, but also durability and feeling of use.
  • the viscosity (cPs) of the perfluorononylethylstearyldimethicone may be 400 to 1000, and the viscosity may be measured under the conditions of Spindle RV-7, 5 rpm, and 40°C using Brookfield RVT.
  • the volatility (%) of the perfluorononylethylstearyldimethicone may be up to 4.0 at 150°C and 1 hour, and the refractive index may be 1.400 to 1.423 at 20°C.
  • the perfluorononylethylstearyldimethicone may be a product such as Basel's SF-30W or Siltech's Fluorosil L118.
  • the fluorine-based silicone wax may be included in an amount of 0.5 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.7 to 8% by weight, and more preferably 1 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of the fluorine-based silicone wax is less than 0.5% by weight, the effect of improving the persistence and feeling of use of the cosmetic is not sufficiently exhibited, and when it is more than 10% by weight, the viscosity is excessively increased.
  • non-volatile oil may mean an oil having a vapor pressure of about 0.2 mmHg or less at 25°C at 1 atmosphere and/or an oil having a boiling point of about 300°C or more at 1 atmosphere.
  • Volatile oil may mean an oil exhibiting a vapor pressure of about 0.2 mmHg or more at 25°C.
  • the cosmetic composition for lips of the present invention may contain a large amount of volatile oil, the volatile oil is isododecane, isohexadecane, C7-8 isoparaffin, C8-9 isoparaffin, C10-11 Isoparaffin, C10-13 isoparaffin, C11-12 isoparaffin, C11-13 isoparaffin, C13-14 isoparaffin, methyltrimethicone, caprylylmethicone, cyclomethicone, cyclotetrasiloxane, cyclopentasiloxane and cyclo It may include any one or more selected from the group consisting of hexasiloxane, etc., but is not limited thereto.
  • the volatile oil may act to smoothly form a film of the coating agent while being volatilized when the lips are applied.
  • the volatile oil may be included in 50 to 90% by weight, preferably 60 to 80% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. If the volatile oil is less than 50% by weight, other ingredients in the formulation may not be sufficiently dispersed, and if it is more than 90% by weight, the feeling of use of the cosmetic may be impaired.
  • the cosmetic composition for lips of the present invention may include a coating agent, and the coating agent is an acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, trimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, poly Methylsilsesquioxane, dimethicone/vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate crosspolymer, trimethylsiloxysilicate/dimethiconol crosspolymer, trimethylsiloxysilylcarbamoyl pullulan polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinylpyrrolidone, acrylate-based copolymer It may include any one or more selected from the group consisting of coalescence and vinylpyrrolidone-based copolymer, but is not limited thereto.
  • the coating agent is an acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, trimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, poly Methyls
  • the coating agent may be included in an amount of 5 to 40% by weight, preferably 10 to 30% by weight, and more preferably 15 to 25% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. If the coating agent is less than 5% by weight, the film formation on the lips may be insufficient and the persistence may be reduced, and when it is more than 40% by weight, the stability of the formulation may be impaired.
  • the cosmetic composition for lips of the present invention may substantially contain no non-volatile oil.
  • the composition substantially free of non-volatile oil may contain 5% by weight or less, preferably 3% by weight or less, more preferably 1% by weight or less, based on the total weight of the composition, and most preferably May not be included at all. Since the cosmetic composition for lips of the present invention substantially does not contain non-volatile oil, it is not easily removed by water or oil, so that the durability is improved, and a moist and soft feeling of use is provided.
  • the non-volatile oil is caprylic/capric triglyceride, triethylhexanoin, diisostearylmalate, tridecyltrimelitate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, triisostearin, di Glyceryl sebacate/isopalmitate, phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyldimerdilinoleate, dipentaerythritylhexahydroxystearate/hexastearate/hexaloginate, phytosteryl /Isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyldimerdilinoleate, hydrogenated castor oil isostearate, dimethicone crosspolymer, dimethicone/vinyldimethicone crosspolymer, PEG-12dimethicone/PP -20 may be any one or more selected from the group consisting of crosspolymers
  • the cosmetic composition for lips of the present invention comprises a fluorine-based oil and a fluorine-based silicone wax of 1:0.1 to 10, preferably 1:0.5 to 7, more preferably 1:1 to 5, and most preferably 1:2 to It may be included in a weight ratio of 4 (fluorine-based oil: fluorine-based silicone wax).
  • fluorine-based oil fluorine-based silicone wax
  • the composition of the present invention contains a fluorine-based oil and a fluorine-based silicone wax in the weight ratio, formulation stability, makeup persistence, and feeling of use are remarkably increased.
  • the viscosity (cPs) of the cosmetic composition for lips of the present invention may be 8000 to 25000, preferably 10000 to 20000, more preferably 12000 to 18000.
  • the viscosity can be measured under Spindle Number 4, 30 rpm, and room temperature conditions. When the viscosity is less than 8000, separation of the formulation may occur, and when the viscosity is more than 25000, the viscosity is excessively high, and the feeling of use may be inhibited.
  • the cosmetic composition for lips of the present invention may include a pigment to impart a vivid color
  • the pigment may be used without limitation as long as it is commonly used in the art.
  • the pigment is Yellow No. 203, Yellow No. 4, Yellow No. 5, Yellow No. 201, Yellow No. 204, Red No. 103, Red No. 104, Red No. 201, Red No. 202, Red No. 218, Red No. 220 , Red No. 223, Red No. 226, Red No. 227, Red No. 203, Red Iron Oxide, Blue No. 1, Blue No. 2, Titanium Dioxide, and the like may be included, but are not limited thereto.
  • the pigment may be included in an amount of 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight, and more preferably 1 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. If the pigment is less than 0.1% by weight, the color development power may be insufficient, and if it is more than 30% by weight, the formulation stability may be deteriorated.
  • the cosmetic composition for lips of the present invention may be prepared in an oil dispersion formulation, and may be prepared in a liquid formulation such as lip gloss or lip cream that may be applied to the skin.
  • the cosmetic composition for lips according to the present invention is a group consisting of antifoam, wax, thickener, powder thickener, antioxidant, emollient, moisturizer, soothing agent, lubricant, preservative, moisturizer, ultraviolet absorber, and fragrance. It may further include one or more additives selected from.
  • the present invention is a lip cosmetic comprising 0.1 to 5% by weight of fluorine-based oil, 0.5 to 10% by weight of fluorine-based silicone wax, 50 to 90% by weight of volatile oil, and 5 to 40% by weight of a coating agent based on the total weight of the composition
  • the composition is provided.
  • the composition containing each of the above ingredients in a specific amount does not contain non-volatile oils, but gives a moist and soft feeling of use to the lip cosmetic formulation, and is not easily erased by water or oil, so it has excellent durability and stability of the formulation. Remarkably excellent.
  • the cosmetic composition for lips of the present invention has a moist and soft feeling of use, which improves dryness, is not easily erased by water or oil, has excellent persistence, and has a high viscosity, so that the formulation stability is remarkably excellent.
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of film formation showing a bonding structure of a film agent and a thickener after volatilization of volatile oil.
  • FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram of a lip formed with a film after use of a cosmetic composition for lips.
  • the cosmetic compositions of Examples and Comparative Examples 1 to 3 were prepared with the ingredients disclosed in Table 1 below. First, an acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer was dispersed and dissolved in isododecane with a disper mixer at room temperature. Thereafter, disteadimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate were added, followed by heating and dispersing at 80 to 85° C. for 10 minutes or more. Thereafter, the cosmetic compositions of Examples and Comparative Examples were prepared by mixing the raw materials according to the composition of Table 1 below, and dispersing, degassing, and cooling at room temperature at 80 to 85°C.
  • a suitable viscosity at which the formulation does not separate is at least 8,000 cPs at Spindle Number 4, 30 rpm, and room temperature conditions.
  • Table 2 below shows the formulation stability evaluation results of Examples and Comparative Examples 1 to 3.
  • Comparative Example 2 in which non-volatile oil was prescribed, had a significantly reduced viscosity compared to Comparative Example 3, which was not prescribed, and thus formulation separation occurred.
  • the viscosity of Comparative Example 1 is 8,000 cPs or more, it was confirmed that the fluorine-based oil was not stabilized and thus a separation phenomenon occurred.
  • the examples in which the fluorine-based silicone wax was prescribed had excellent formulation stability because oil separation did not occur. That is, it was confirmed that the fluorine-based oil could not be stabilized with the conventional wax or thickener, but formulation stability could be remarkably increased by prescribing a fluorine-based silicone wax.
  • Persistence was evaluated for burying, smearing, and oil resistance.
  • the formulation was uniformly applied to a thickness of 60 micrometers using an SI 1107 80mmm 4 side applicator and dried for 15 minutes.
  • a white paper was placed on the artificial leather of which the formulation was dried and pressed with a weight of 4.5 kg for 10 seconds, and the degree of burying on the paper was measured with a colorimeter.
  • a white paper was placed on the artificial leather of which the formulation was dried, and the white paper was pulled out under conditions of pressing with a weight of 1.5 kg, and the degree of smearing on the paper was measured with a colorimeter.
  • oil resistance to edible oil was evaluated in order to confirm that the oil is erased when eating.
  • Apply 10 microliters of canola oil using a micropipette on the dried artificial leather apply evenly, and after 1 minute, rotate the M1 grade 1kg round weight 10 times against the rough side of the paper filter. The shear force of was implemented, and the degree of burying on the paper filter was then measured with a colorimeter.
  • the model of the color difference meter used is KONICA MINOLTA CHROMA METER CR-400.
  • the average value of smearing or smearing was calculated by randomly measuring clean white paper three times with BLANK (L1, a1, b1), and the average value of smearing or smearing was calculated by randomly measuring the paper measured in the above conditions three times.
  • the measured values are expressed as L(Lightness), a(red-green chromaticity), and b(yellow blue chromaticity), and the degree of difference between the color immediately after application and the color on the paper is quantified by calculating the ⁇ E value as shown below. I did.
  • Comparative Example 2 corresponds to a case in which 3% by weight of diisostearylmaleate, which is a nonvolatile oil, is added compared to Comparative Example 3, in which case smearing, smearing and oil It was confirmed that the oil resistance value increased significantly, that is, the persistence decreased significantly. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1 where fluorine-based oil was prescribed, the level of staining and bleeding ⁇ E was less than 1, which was unidentifiable, and the oil resistance ⁇ E value was also smaller than that of Comparative Example 2, confirming that the oil resistance was further increased.
  • FIG. 1 is a result of confirming the degree of burying of each formulation on the filter paper after measuring the oil and oil resistance, and when looking at the difference shown in FIG. 1, it can be confirmed that the persistence of the embodiment is the best.
  • Comparative Example 2 in which non-volatile oil was prescribed, the dryness was very excellent compared to Comparative Example 3, but the lasting power was significantly decreased.
  • Comparative Example 1 in which a fluorine-based oil was prescribed, spreadability, dryness, and durability were all increased compared to Comparative Example 3. It can be seen that the example in which the fluorine-based silicone wax was prescribed in addition to Comparative Example 1 improved the spreadability due to the use of the wax, and was significantly superior to Comparative Examples 1 and 3 in both dryness and lasting power.

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique pour les lèvres comprenant de l'huile à base de fluor et de la cire de silicone à base de fluor dans une grande quantité d'huile volatile. La composition cosmétique pour les lèvres de la présente invention est améliorée au niveau de la sensation de sécheresse du fait d'une sensation d'hydratation et de douceur, n'est pas facilement retirée par l'eau ou les matières grasses et présente de ce fait une excellente longévité, et de plus possède une viscosité élevée de telle sorte que la stabilité de la formulation est excellente, d'une manière significative.
PCT/KR2020/003261 2019-05-21 2020-03-09 Composition cosmétique pour les lèvres offrant une meilleure longévité et une amélioration de la sensation de sécheresse WO2020235789A1 (fr)

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KR102460157B1 (ko) * 2021-11-17 2022-11-01 (주)나우코스 사용감이 향상된 고광택 립 메이크업 조성물

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KR20150023842A (ko) * 2012-06-21 2015-03-05 로레알 오일, 소수성 실리카 에어로겔 입자 및 반결정성 중합체를 포함하는 화장용 조성물

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