WO2018097584A1 - Composition cosmétique de maquillage de type à dispersion aqueuse - Google Patents

Composition cosmétique de maquillage de type à dispersion aqueuse Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2018097584A1
WO2018097584A1 PCT/KR2017/013316 KR2017013316W WO2018097584A1 WO 2018097584 A1 WO2018097584 A1 WO 2018097584A1 KR 2017013316 W KR2017013316 W KR 2017013316W WO 2018097584 A1 WO2018097584 A1 WO 2018097584A1
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Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
phase
water
weight
dispersion type
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PCT/KR2017/013316
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English (en)
Korean (ko)
Inventor
김기백
지진구
박명삼
우영화
Original Assignee
코스맥스 주식회사
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Publication of WO2018097584A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018097584A1/fr

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06Emulsions
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A61K8/362Polycarboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/98Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of animal origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06Lipsticks

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a water dispersion type makeup cosmetic composition, and more particularly, to a water dispersion type makeup cosmetic composition comprising a solubilization of a D-phase emulsion in a water phase in a water dispersion type makeup cosmetic composition including an aqueous phase in which pigments are dispersed. It relates to a composition.
  • the water dispersion type cosmetic composition has a characteristic of having a moist moisture due to the inclusion of water.
  • the moisture disappears over time to have a dry feeling, and the glossiness decreases with evaporation of water.
  • a thickener to solve such a problem, it is possible to reduce the problem slightly by increasing the content of the thickener, but has a problem such as stickiness and heavy feeling, there is no satisfactory improvement.
  • a method of maintaining the moisture and glossiness of the water phase using polyol types has been used, but there is still a problem in that the moisture and glossiness decreases over time due to the characteristics of the polyol, and the problem that the stickiness peculiar to the polyol species remains. It also occurs and there is no satisfactory improvement.
  • D-phase emulsion refers to an emulsion prepared by the D-phase emulsification method. Specifically, when oil is slowly added to the D-phase, which is composed of a surfactant, a polyol, and a small amount of water, it is mixed to form a highly viscous transparent gel through an O / D form. Again, water is added to the low viscosity O / W emulsion having fine particles.
  • the stability is very excellent compared to other emulsifications, and it is possible to use a wide range of surfactants due to less influence of HLB, and more stable formulation development is possible.
  • it is less susceptible to temperature changes, and has the advantage that there is little risk of occurrence of temporal changes, odors, and stability abnormalities with temperature.
  • the D-phase oil painting has the advantage that it can be applied to the solubilization type, unlike other emulsification method has the advantage that it can be applied to the current water-dispersible makeup cosmetic composition.
  • the present inventors have diligently researched to overcome the problems of the prior art, and as a result, the emulsion obtained through the D-phase emulsification is applied to the solubilization type water dispersion formulation, not a method using a conventional thickener or a method using a polyol. It was confirmed that the formulation can be developed that was not previously seen, specifically, in the case of the water-dispersible type formulation in which the oil and water are emulsified in D phase and solubilized in the water phase, it is confirmed that the moisture and glossiness is excellent. The present invention has been completed.
  • a main object of the present invention is to provide a water-dispersible type makeup cosmetic composition in which a D-phase emulsion having excellent moisturizing power and glossiness is solubilized in a water phase part.
  • the present invention provides a water dispersion type makeup cosmetic composition characterized in that the D phase emulsion is solubilized in the water phase in the water dispersion type makeup cosmetic composition comprising a water phase dispersed pigment. .
  • the conventional water-dispersion type cosmetic composition it has the property of giving a moisture feeling due to the inclusion of water, but as time goes by, evaporation of water increases the dryness and decreases the glossiness.
  • a method of maintaining moisture and glossiness using a polyol was used, but this method was also difficult to solve the problem of reducing moisture and glossiness. Accordingly, the present inventors have invented a makeup cosmetic composition of the water dispersion type solubilizing the D-phase emulsion in the water phase in order to solve the above problems.
  • Solubilization in the present invention refers to completely dissolving a small amount of D-phase emulsion completely in the water phase to dissolve transparently, and distinguishes from an emulsion in which two liquids that do not dissolve with each other, such as water and oil, are mixed with each other and milky-white. do.
  • the D-phase emulsion refers to an emulsion made by the D-phase emulsification method
  • D-phase emulsification method is mixed with a slowly adding oil to the D phase consisting of a surfactant, a polyol and a small amount of water while a high viscosity transparent O / It means a method of making a low viscosity O / W emulsion having fine particles by adding water to it after making the D gel.
  • the D phase emulsion may be used in any D phase emulsion that can be used in the cosmetic field, preferably diphenyldimethicone, glycerin, squalane, purified water, triethylhexanoin, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, disodium It is characterized by using a combination of IDT, sodium citrate, and citric acid.
  • the water phase portion is characterized in that it comprises purified water, moisturizers, thickeners and pigments.
  • the moisturizing agent may be used any moisturizer used for skin moisturizing in the cosmetic field, for example, glycerin, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol And the like.
  • the thickener may be used any thickener that has been used to increase the viscosity of the conventional cosmetics, for example, gelatin, xanthan gum, carbomer, polyacrylate crosspolymer, ammonium acryloyl dimethyl taurate / V copolymer It may include.
  • the pigment may be used in any pigment included in the makeup cosmetics, for example, organic pigments, white pigments (titanium oxide, zinc oxide, etc.), pearl pigments, such as sieving pigments such as talc, mica, mica, silica. It may include a coloring pigment.
  • the content of the D-phase emulsion is 0.01 to 10% by weight of diphenyldimethicone, 1 to 20% by weight of glycerin, 0.01 to 7% by weight of squalane, 0.1 to 25% by weight of purified water, tree based on the total weight of the composition 0.01 to 7% by weight of hexahexanoin, 0.01 to 3% by weight of polyglyceryl-10 myristate, 0.001 to 0.1% by weight of disodium ethane, 0.001 to 0.1% by weight of sodium citrate, and 0.001 to 0.1% by weight of citric acid It is characterized by including the%.
  • the purified water may be 0.1 to 25% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • butylene glycol, glycerin and the like widely used in cosmetics may be further included as an aqueous phase.
  • the diphenyl dimethicone of the present invention may be 0.01 to 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. If the content of diphenyldimethicone is less than 0.01% by weight, the oil content is low, so it is difficult to see it as a normal D-phase emulsion, and when the content of diphenyldimethicone is more than 10% by weight, the oil content is high, which may reduce the stability of the emulsion. . It is preferably used in an amount of 10% or less based on the total weight of the composition, more preferably 8% by weight or less based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Diphenyldimethicone It has an oily feeling with little stickiness and can maintain a moist moisture by minimizing moisture loss. It also has excellent luster. However, when the content of diphenyldimethicone is too high, it rather hinders the formation of D-phase emulsification.
  • the glycerin of the present invention may be 1 to 20% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the glycerin component content is less than 1% by weight, the moisturizing feeling is difficult to have the expected effect, and when it exceeds 20% by weight, the applicability is not good due to the sticky feeling.
  • the glycerin is a kind of polyol, and is used as a raw material to improve moisture and glossiness. Compared with other types of polyols, it has a high moisturizing feeling and is recognized as a stable raw material.
  • the content of the glycerin is set in consideration of the non-sticky feeling.
  • the squalane of the present invention may be 0.01 to 7% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the squalane is a soft and less sticky raw material can improve the rich usability and smooth application.
  • the triethylhexanoin of the present invention may be 0.01 to 7% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the triethylhexanoin is a fatty acid type obtained from glycerin and fatty acids, and is mainly used as a raw material for moisturizing.
  • the polyglyceryl-10 myristate of the present invention may be 0.01 to 3% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the polyglyceryl-10 myristate is a raw material that is used as a polyglycerol fatty acid ester (PGFE) solubilizer and emulsifier, and also used as a solubilizer and emulsifier in the present invention. It is a raw material that is currently recommended as a PEG-free solubilizer.
  • PGFE polyglycerol fatty acid ester
  • the disodium ID of the present invention may be 0.001 to 0.1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the disodium IDT was used as a chelating agent as a raw material to increase the emulsion stability.
  • the sodium citrate of the present invention may be 0.001 to 0.1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the sodium citrate was used as a pH adjuster.
  • the citric acid of the present invention may be 0.001 to 0.1% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the citric acid was used as a pH adjuster.
  • the content of the pigment of the present invention may be 0.01 to 5% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the pigment may be used in combination of various kinds of pigments. For example, coloring pigments, such as red 102, orange 205, red 104 (1), red 227, yellow 4, yellow 5, blue 1, can be mix
  • coloring pigments such as red 102, orange 205, red 104 (1), red 227, yellow 4, yellow 5, blue 1, can be mix
  • kinds of pigments are not limited to the pigments and include water soluble pigments which are soluble in water.
  • the makeup cosmetic composition of the present invention may be formulated with preservatives, humectants, film-forming agents and fragrances used in cosmetics in the art within the range not impairing the effects of the present invention, depending on the purpose.
  • the D-phase emulsion is characterized in that it comprises 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the makeup cosmetic composition of the water dispersion type.
  • the D-phase emulsion is used at 0.5% by weight or less, it is difficult to expect the effect of improving the moisturizing feeling and glossiness, and when using more than 20% by weight, the oily feeling is severe and it is difficult to expect the improvement effect.
  • the cosmetic composition is characterized by excellent moisture, gloss and stability.
  • the cosmetic composition may be used in the formulation of liquid foundation, concealer, base, etc., but preferably in the formulation of the lip makeup cosmetic composition for lips, specifically, consisting of lipstick, liquid rouge, lip balm and lip gloss It is characterized in that the formulation is selected from the group.
  • the present invention provides a method of preparing a water-dispersible type makeup cosmetic composition comprising the following steps:
  • phase D emulsion by combining diphenyldimethicone, glycerin, squalane, purified water, triethylhexanoin, polyglyceryl-10 myristate, disodium ethane, sodium citrate and citric acid;
  • step c) solubilizing the D phase emulsion of step a) by adding it to the aqueous phase of step b).
  • the makeup cosmetic composition according to the present invention may prepare the cosmetic composition through a process such as heating, mixing and stirring the components mentioned above in a conventional manufacturing method. This manufacturing process is obvious in view of the skill level of those skilled in the art.
  • the water-dispersion type cosmetic composition solubilizing the D-phase emulsion in the water phase gives a non-sticky oily application and moist feeling as the emulsion type, and improves glossiness and is visible in the water-dispersible formulation. It shows new usability that there was not.
  • FIG. 1 is a view showing a graph comparing the skin moisture content and the rate of change of the Examples and Comparative Examples of the present invention.
  • FIG. 2 is a diagram showing a graph comparing the reflectance before and after the application of the present invention and the comparative example.
  • Table 1 shows the raw materials of the D-phase emulsion and the raw materials of the water phase formulation. The content of Table 1 was prepared based on the weight%.
  • the manufacturing method of the first phase D emulsion in Table 1 and then, in a separate container in order to disperse and dissolve the water phase raw material in order to prepare a water dispersion formulation, and finally to form the water phase formulation D phase emulsion Added to and dispersed.
  • the method was prepared by preparing a D-phase emulsion, and then injecting the D-phase emulsion into the aqueous dispersion formulation.
  • the method for preparing a D-phase emulsion is a small amount of purified water, glycerin and polyglyceryl-10 myristate are mixed and heated (70 ° C.), and then diphenyldimethicone, squalane and triethylhexanoin are slowly mixed in small amounts. , Disperse. At this time, high-viscosity OD Gel is formed, and after cooling, it is cooled to 30 °C and purified water, gold and silver extract, disodium ID, sodium citrate, citric acid, and honeysuckle extract are sequentially added and mixed to low viscosity O.
  • the phase D emulsion which is the / W emulsion phase, can be completed.
  • D phase air is added and completely dispersed.
  • the perfume is added and dispersed, followed by degassing (defoaming) to remove the air bubbles and the formulation is completed.
  • Comparative Examples 1 and 2 it is a prescription of an existing company's water dispersion formulation, and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 used different thickeners.
  • Comparative Examples 1 and 2 the formulation of the existing company's water dispersion formulation, and Comparative Example 1 used another thickener of Carbomer type which is most widely used in the water dispersion formulation. In Comparative Example 2, the same thickener and the same content as in Example were applied.
  • Comparative Example 3 only the D-phase raw material itself was used without solubilizing the D-phase raw material in the aqueous phase formulation, and additionally, only the pigment was added.
  • the manufacturing process of the comparative examples is the same as the embodiment.
  • the pH and viscosity were compared and evaluated using the Examples and Comparative Examples 1 to 3. Specifically, after storing the samples in a 25 °C thermostat for 24 hours, using a Brookfield LVT viscometer (brookfield VISCOMETER) to measure the viscosity at 64 PIN 12RPM, using a pH meter (Bench pH meter HI 4221) pH was measured. The measurement results are shown in Table 2.
  • Example Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 Comparative Example 3 pH 7.05 6.89 6.98 7.31 Viscosity 19000 16000 18000 5000
  • the pH value is a factor that affects the formulation stability and antiseptic power, and the pH part is about 7.05 in the region close to neutral, and Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were similarly identified as about 7.0.
  • Comparative Example 3 has a low viscosity, and compared with Examples and Comparative Examples 1 and 2, the pH was slightly higher.
  • Corneometer CM825 (CK electronic, Germany) instrument was used to evaluate the moisturizing power of the Examples and Comparative Examples 1-2.
  • Evaluation method was measured after applying the moisturizing power to five healthy adult women (mean age 26.2 years), the results are shown in a graph (Fig. 1). Specifically, when measuring the moisturizing power, first, the skin moisture content of the test site (inside Habakkuk, 22 cm 2 ) was measured, and 20 ⁇ l of the product was applied to the test site for absorption, and after 30 minutes of application, 2 hours later, After 4 hours, the skin moisture content after 8 hours was measured 3 times each.
  • the measurement results were calculated by comparing the skin moisture content and the rate of change using the average value of the three times measured values, and then comparing them with the uncoated values.
  • 1 is a graph comparing the skin moisture change rate of the Examples and Comparative Examples of the present invention.
  • Micro-TRI-gloss (BYK Gardner, Germany) was used to evaluate the glossiness of the makeup cosmetic composition of Example and Comparative Example 2.
  • Comparative Example 1 In the case of Comparative Example 1, Examples and Comparative Examples 2 and the thickener was used differently, Carbomer, a thickener applied to Comparative Example 1 was generally a low gloss raw material when the naked eye was confirmed when the visual confirmation, Therefore, it excluded from glossiness evaluation.
  • Figure 2 is a graph comparing the reflectance before and after the application of the present invention and Comparative Example 2.
  • the glossiness of the Example was excellent as shown in Graph 2. It has about 2.6 times improved glossiness compared to before application, and about 2 times improved compared to Comparative Example 2.
  • Example of the present invention to which the D-phase emulsion was applied has better glossiness compared to Comparative Example 2.
  • Example Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 2 25 °C ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ 37 °C ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ 45 °C ⁇ ⁇ ⁇ cycle ⁇ ⁇ ⁇

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique de maquillage de type à dispersion aqueuse comprenant une partie de phase aqueuse dans laquelle un pigment est dispersé, une émulsion de phase D étant solubilisée dans la partie de phase aqueuse. Selon la présente invention, dans le cas d'une composition cosmétique de maquillage de type à dispersion aqueuse dans laquelle de l'huile et de l'eau sont émulsifiées en phase D, puis solubilisées dans la partie de phase aqueuse, la composition est remarquablement excellente en termes d'hydratation et de brillance par rapport à la composition cosmétique de type à dispersion aqueuse classique et offre une nouvelle sensation d'utilisation en tant que type à dispersion aqueuse.
PCT/KR2017/013316 2016-11-22 2017-11-22 Composition cosmétique de maquillage de type à dispersion aqueuse WO2018097584A1 (fr)

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KR1020160155980A KR101878687B1 (ko) 2016-11-22 2016-11-22 수분산 타입 메이크업 화장료 조성물
KR10-2016-0155980 2016-11-22

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Cited By (2)

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WO2020252201A1 (fr) * 2019-06-13 2020-12-17 Aesthetics Biomedical, Inc. Composition de conservation biologique et procédés d'utilisation
CN114392198A (zh) * 2022-01-14 2022-04-26 广州暨大美塑生物科技有限公司 一种化妆品组合物及其制备方法

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JP7304741B2 (ja) * 2019-06-03 2023-07-07 株式会社 資生堂 水中油型乳化唇用化粧料
KR102334717B1 (ko) * 2019-10-29 2021-12-03 코스맥스 주식회사 가용화된 수상을 함유하는 반 고형상의 메이크업 화장료 조성물
KR102462795B1 (ko) * 2020-05-25 2022-11-03 코스맥스 주식회사 오일 입자 및 파우더 과립을 포함하는 수분산타입 화장료 제형 및 이의 제조방법
KR102462794B1 (ko) * 2020-10-19 2022-11-03 코스맥스 주식회사 가용화된 실리콘을 포함하는 반고형상 화장료 조성물
KR102535756B1 (ko) * 2023-02-28 2023-05-30 주식회사 위즈온컴퍼니 립밤 조성물 및 이의 제조방법

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2020252201A1 (fr) * 2019-06-13 2020-12-17 Aesthetics Biomedical, Inc. Composition de conservation biologique et procédés d'utilisation
CN114392198A (zh) * 2022-01-14 2022-04-26 广州暨大美塑生物科技有限公司 一种化妆品组合物及其制备方法

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