WO2020230859A1 - Knitted fabric and garment - Google Patents
Knitted fabric and garment Download PDFInfo
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- WO2020230859A1 WO2020230859A1 PCT/JP2020/019318 JP2020019318W WO2020230859A1 WO 2020230859 A1 WO2020230859 A1 WO 2020230859A1 JP 2020019318 W JP2020019318 W JP 2020019318W WO 2020230859 A1 WO2020230859 A1 WO 2020230859A1
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- knitted fabric
- loop surface
- knitting
- friction coefficient
- sinker loop
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
- D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/02—Underwear
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
Definitions
- the present invention relates to knitted fabrics and garments.
- the design is given mainly to the outside air side of the garment by printing, but since the print is made on the relatively smooth needle loop surface of the knitted fabric, the sinker loop surface, which is inferior in smoothness to the needle loop surface, is used as the garment. It had to be placed on the skin side, and I sometimes felt irritation to the skin.
- a method of arranging the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric on the skin side of the garment see Patent Document 1 below) or arranging the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric on the skin side of the garment in order to reduce irritation to the skin.
- Patent Document 2 discloses a knitted fabric having a layered structure in which soft cellulose fibers are arranged on the needle loop surface.
- Patent Document 3 discloses a knitted fabric in which the positional relationship between loops appearing on the back surface of the knitted fabric is controlled in order to obtain a knitted fabric that feels good to the touch and reduces discomfort due to a bad tactile sensation such as unevenness. There is.
- Patent Document 3 does not provide a solution to the ease of printing on both the front and back surfaces and the peeling resistance of the pressure-bonding tape.
- a knitted fabric suitable for clothing which can express a design pattern by printing regardless of the front and back of a single knitted fabric and has good peeling resistance of a pressure-bonding tape, has not yet been provided.
- an object to be solved by the present invention is to provide a single knitted fabric in which a print can be easily placed regardless of the front and back of the knitted fabric and the pressure-bonding tape has good peel resistance.
- the present invention is as follows. [1] It is a single knitted fabric having a tenjiku structure composed of inelastic fibers and elastic fibers, and the coefficient of kinetic friction when the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction is 0.500 or less.
- the difference between the dynamic friction coefficient when the needle loop surface and the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric are rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction and the dynamic friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction are both 0.13 or less.
- a knitted fabric characterized in that the ratio of the dynamic friction coefficient of the needle loop surface to the dynamic friction coefficient of the sinker loop surface when rubbing from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction is 0.70 to 1.00.
- the standard deviation of the friction coefficient when the sinker loop surface is rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction is 0.500 or less, and the friction coefficient when the sinker loop surface is rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction.
- Knitted fabric [5] The above-mentioned [1] to [4], wherein the ratio of the cool contact value of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric to the cool contact value of the sinker loop surface is 1.00 to 1.30. Knitted fabric. [6] The above-mentioned [1] to [5], wherein the number of courses is 70 to 150 / inch, the number of wells is 50 to 80 / inch, and the density index is 4000 to 12000. Knitted fabric. [7] The knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [6] above, wherein the longest inelastic fiber among the inelastic fibers contained in the knitted fabric has a yarn length of 160 to 240 mm / 100 w.
- the inelastic fiber includes a thread containing a cellulose-based filament thread and a thread made of a synthetic fiber, and the two types of threads are alternately arranged in the well direction, and the thread made of the synthetic fiber is arranged in a living machine.
- the single knitted fabric of the present invention has improved smoothness of the sinker loop surface, and the difference in the coefficient of dynamic friction between the sinker loop surface and the needle loop surface is small, so that it is easy to place a print on the front and back of the knitted fabric. By doing so, the convenience of the knitted fabric is improved, and the peeling resistance of the crimping tape is also improved.
- the knitted fabric of the present embodiment is a single knitted fabric having a tenjiku structure composed of inelastic fibers and elastic fibers, and the coefficient of kinetic friction when the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction is 0. It is 500 or less, and the difference between the dynamic friction coefficient when the needle loop surface and the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric are rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction and the difference between the dynamic friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction are both. It is characterized by being 0.13 or less, and the ratio of the dynamic friction coefficient of the needle loop surface to the dynamic friction coefficient of the sinker loop surface when rubbing from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction is 0.70 to 1.00. To do.
- the knitted fabric of the present embodiment is characterized by being composed of elastic fibers and non-elastic fibers.
- the inelastic fiber used may be either a filament yarn or a spun yarn.
- synthetic fibers such as polyamide fibers, polyester fibers, acrylic fibers, polypropylene fibers, vinyl chloride fibers, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, and regenerated cellulose fibers are used.
- synthetic fibers such as fibers are preferable.
- the form of the filament yarn may be any of a raw yarn (unprocessed yarn), a false twisted yarn, a yarn-dyed yarn, and the like, or a composite yarn thereof.
- the cross-sectional shape of the filament yarn is not particularly limited, such as ⁇ , ⁇ , cross, W type, M type, C type, I type, dogbone type, and hollow fiber.
- the spun yarn includes natural fibers such as cotton, wool and hemp, synthetic fibers such as polyamide fibers, polyester fibers, acrylic fibers, polypropylene fibers and vinyl chloride fibers, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, and It may be made of chemical fibers such as regenerated fibers such as cellulose-based fibers, and these may be either alone or blended. That is, a suitable material may be appropriately selected depending on the application.
- filament yarns made of cellulosic fibers (hereinafter, " It is preferable to use "cellulosic filament yarn") and polyester filament, or cellulose filament yarn and polyamide filament as the composite false twisted yarn.
- the two types of the above fibers (for example, a yarn containing a cellulosic filament yarn and a yarn made of a synthetic fiber) may be alternately arranged in the well direction such as 1: 1, 1: 2, 2: 2.
- the knitted fabric may be aligned and have a layered structure.
- the inelastic fiber is composed of two types, a thread containing a cellulose filament yarn and a thread made of a synthetic fiber, and when these two types of threads are alternately arranged in the well direction, the thread length of the thread made of the synthetic fiber is increased. It is preferable to set the yarn length of the yarn containing the cellulose-based filament yarn to be 5 mm to 20 mm longer than the yarn length of the yarn to manufacture the raw machine. Since the cellulosic filament has low heat shrinkage and crimp development, the heat shrinkage and crimp development of the yarn composed of only the cellulose filament and the yarn containing the cellulosic filament such as the composite yarn are also small.
- the yarn made of synthetic fibers has a larger heat shrinkage than the yarn containing a cellulosic filament, and when it is a false twisted yarn, the occurrence of crimping is also large. Therefore, in the production of knitted fabrics in which yarns containing cellulosic filament yarns and yarns made of synthetic fibers are alternately arranged in the well direction, in order to reduce unevenness of the finished fabric and improve smoothness, it is necessary to improve the smoothness at the raw machine manufacturing stage. It is preferable to set the thread length of the thread made of synthetic fibers to be long.
- the yarn length of the synthetic fiber is 5 mm or more and 20 mm or less with respect to the yarn containing the cellulosic filament yarn because the surface of the finished fabric is less likely to have irregularities and the standard deviation of the friction coefficient can be easily reduced.
- the elastic fibers used may be polyurethane elastic yarns, polyether ester elastic yarns, polyamide elastic yarns, polyolefin elastic yarns, or those coated with non-elastic fibers to bring them into a covering state.
- rubber threads which are in the form of threads made of natural rubber, synthetic rubber, and semi-synthetic rubber, can be used, but polyurethane elastic threads, which are excellent in elasticity and are generally widely used, are preferable.
- polyurethane elastic yarn is preferable, and more preferably, polyurethane made of polyurethane produced by performing a chain extension reaction with a prepolymer from polytetramethylene glycol and diphenylmethane-4,4-diisocyanate and ethylenediamine as a chain extender. It is an elastic thread.
- the knitted fabric of the present embodiment is characterized by being a single knitted fabric made of a plain fabric.
- the single knitted fabric made of a plain fabric is the simplest knitted fabric, has good production efficiency, can be made thin, and is lightweight, so it is suitable as wear.
- the shapes of the needle loop surface and the sinker loop surface are significantly different, and it may be difficult to align the shapes and make the smoothness equal.
- Single knitted fabrics that are not Tianzhu organizations include inlay organizations and Kanoko organizations. Double knitted fabrics and tricot knitted fabrics, which are not single knitted fabrics, have lower production efficiency than single knitted fabrics, and may be difficult to reduce in thickness and weight.
- a generally-called three-layer tenjiku knitted fabric composed of two types of inelastic fibers and one type of elastic fibers may be used.
- a three-layer knitted fabric one more type of inelastic fiber can be used than in a normal knitted fabric, so that the characteristics of the added inelastic fiber can be imparted to the knitted fabric.
- a fiber having the property to be imparted may be arbitrarily used. For example, if it is desired to impart moisture absorption and desorption to the knitted fabric, cellulose fibers may be used.
- the knitted fabric of the present embodiment has a dynamic friction coefficient of 0.500 or less, preferably 0.400 or less, more preferably 0.300 or less when the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction. It is as follows. If the coefficient of kinetic friction when rubbing from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric exceeds 0.500, the smoothness of the knitted fabric surface is poor and the print on the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is poor. This may result in a decrease in the peeling resistance of the crimping tape.
- the knitting ends when the inelastic fibers in the knitted fabric can be easily extracted, and the knitting starts in the opposite direction. Further, "friction from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction" means friction in the well direction (warp direction) from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction.
- the difference between the dynamic friction coefficient when the needle loop surface and the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric are rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction and the dynamic friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction are both 0.13 or less, preferably 0.12 or less, and more preferably 0.11 or less.
- the difference between the dynamic friction coefficient when rubbing the needle loop surface and sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction and the dynamic friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction exceeds 0.13, In particular, the smoothness of the sinker loop surface is poor, the print on the sinker loop surface is poorly printed, and the peeling resistance of the pressure-bonding tape may be lowered.
- the ratio of the dynamic friction coefficient of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric to the dynamic friction coefficient of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric when the knitted fabric is rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction (dynamic friction of the needle loop surface).
- the coefficient / coefficient of dynamic friction of the sinker loop surface) is 0.70 to 1.00, preferably 0.80 to 1.00, and more preferably 0.90 to 1.00.
- the ratio of the dynamic friction coefficient of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric to the dynamic friction coefficient of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric when rubbing from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction of the knitted fabric is less than 0.70, the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric Since the smoothness is poor, the print on the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is poorly placed, and the peeling resistance of the crimping tape may also be lowered. Due to the structure of the loop, the friction of the sinker loop of the knitted fabric when it rubs from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction of the knitted fabric is the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric when it rubs from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction of the knitted fabric.
- the ratio of the dynamic friction coefficient of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric to the dynamic friction coefficient of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric when rubbing from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction of the knitted fabric is 1. It rarely exceeds 00.
- the standard deviation of the friction coefficient when rubbing the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric of the present embodiment from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction shall be 0.500 or less. Is preferable, more preferably 0.400 or less, still more preferably 0.300 or less, and particularly preferably 0.200 or less.
- the knitted fabric of the present embodiment has a standard deviation of friction coefficient and a knitting end when the knitted fabric is rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knit end direction on the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric from the viewpoint of print placement and peeling resistance of the pressure-bonding tape.
- the difference in the standard deviation of the friction coefficient when rubbing from the direction to the knitting start direction is preferably 0.20 or less, more preferably 0.18 or less, still more preferably 0.15 or less.
- the knitted fabric of the present embodiment has the standard deviation of the coefficient of friction and the knitting end direction when the knitted fabric is rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knit end direction on the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric from the viewpoint of print placement and peeling resistance of the pressure-bonding tape.
- the difference in the standard deviation of the friction coefficient when rubbing in the knitting start direction is preferably 0.025 or less, more preferably 0.020 or less, and further preferably 0.017 or less.
- a single knitted fabric consisting of a plain structure has a different structure on the front and back of the knitted fabric, and has a needle loop surface and a sinker loop surface.
- the needle loop surface has V-shaped continuous stitches arranged, there is little friction in the vertical and horizontal directions of the knitted fabric, whereas the sinker loop surface has semicircular stitches. Since they are arranged, the friction in the vertical direction of the knitted fabric is particularly high.
- the friction from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction of the knitted fabric is larger than the friction from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction of the knitted fabric, and it is directional and has uniform smoothness.
- the friction on the sinker loop surface varies greatly depending on the direction. This is because the knitting gives direction to the way the threads overlap. Therefore, making the friction on the sinker loop surface uniform greatly affects the ease of printing and the peeling resistance of the crimping tape.
- the friction characteristics showing the smoothness of the knitted fabric of the present embodiment are measured using a static / dynamic friction measuring machine Tribomaster Type: TL201Ts manufactured by Trinity Lab.
- the conditions for measurement are: grinder: patternless type / contact surface 11 mm ⁇ 15 mm, measurement load: 3.75 g, friction speed 30 mm / sec, friction distance 100 mm, and reciprocate three times. Friction is started from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction, and after rubbing 100 mm, the friction direction is reversed and the knitting start direction is rubbed from the knitting end direction. This operation is repeated 3 times to calculate the dynamic friction coefficient and the standard deviation of the friction coefficient from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction, and the dynamic friction coefficient and the friction coefficient standard deviation from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction. Use the calculated value of the average of.
- the ratio of the water diffusion area of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric to the water diffusion area of the sinker loop surface is preferably 1.00 to 1.10, more preferably 1.00 to 1. It is 08, more preferably 1.00 to 1.06, and even more preferably 1.00 to 1.04. If the surface of the knitted fabric is smooth, the moisture absorbed by the surface of the knitted fabric easily spreads to the surface of the knitted fabric, so that the water diffusion area can be considered as one of the functions expressing smoothness.
- the ratio of the water diffusion area of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric to the water diffusion area of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric exceeds 1.10 means that the water on the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric Since the diffusivity is inferior to the water diffusibility of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric and the smoothness is inferior, the print on the sinker loop surface may not be printed well and the peeling resistance of the crimping tape may be reduced. .. Due to the structure of the loop, the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is never better than the smoothness of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric.
- the water diffusivity of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is the water of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric. It is not better than diffusivity, and the ratio of the water diffusion area of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric to the water diffusion area of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is rarely less than 1.00.
- the ratio of the cool contact value of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric to the cool contact value of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is preferably 1.00 to 1.30, more preferably 1. It is .00 to 1.25, more preferably 1.00 to 1.20. If the surface of the knitted fabric is smooth, the contact area increases and the cool contact feeling becomes high. Therefore, the cool contact feeling value can be considered as one of the functions expressing the smoothness. If the ratio of the cool contact value of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric to the cool contact value of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric exceeds 1.30, the smoothness of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is inferior.
- the print on the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is poorly printed, and the peeling resistance of the crimping tape may also be reduced.
- the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is never better than the smoothness of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric. Therefore, the cool contact sensitivity value of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric. It is not better than the cool contact value, and the ratio of the cool contact value of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric to the cool contact value of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is rarely less than 1.00.
- the knitted fabric of the present embodiment preferably has a number of courses of 70 to 150 / inch (2.54 cm), a number of wells of 50 to 80 / inch, and a density index of 4000 to 12000.
- the number of courses of the knitted fabric is more preferably 80 to 130 pieces / inch, still more preferably 90 to 110 pieces / inch.
- the number of wells in the knitted fabric is more preferably 55 to 70 / inch, still more preferably 55 to 65 / inch.
- the density index is more preferably 4200 to 10000, still more preferably 4400 to 8000, and particularly preferably 4600 to 6000.
- the number of courses of the knitted fabric was 150 / inch or less, the number of wells was 80 / inch or less, and the density index was 12000 or less, it was obtained without the need for the use of a high gauge knitting machine or the use of fine yarn.
- the knitted fabric is not too thin, the burst strength is sufficiently high, and the durability as wear does not become a problem.
- the fineness of the inelastic fiber used for the knitted fabric of the present embodiment is preferably in the range of 15 to 200 detex, more preferably 20 to 170 dtex, further preferably 30 to 120 dtex, and particularly preferably 40 to 100 dtex. If the fineness of the inelastic fiber is less than 15 dtex, the burst strength at the time of knitting becomes too low, and the durability as a garment may become a problem. On the other hand, when the fineness of the inelastic fiber exceeds 200 dtex, the use of a low gauge knitting machine becomes indispensable, a suitable density index cannot be obtained, and the desired effect cannot be obtained.
- the fineness of the elastic fiber used for the knitted fabric of the present embodiment is preferably in the range of 15 to 80 dtex, more preferably 20 to 60 dtex, and further preferably 30 to 50 dtex. If the fineness of the elastic fiber is less than 15 detx, the required extensibility and recoverability may not be obtained. On the other hand, when the fineness of the elastic fiber exceeds 80 dtex, the basis weight becomes large and the wear may become too heavy.
- the knitted fabric of the present embodiment preferably has a basis weight in the range of 50 to 300 g / m 2 , more preferably 80 to 200 g / m 2 , and further preferably 100 to 170 g / m 2 . If the basis weight is less than 50 g / m 2 , the feeling of scale and burst strength may deteriorate. On the other hand, if the basis weight exceeds 300 g / m 2 , it may be too heavy when worn as wear and hinder the operation.
- the knitted fabric of the present embodiment preferably has the longest yarn length of 160 to 240 mm / 100 W (well) among the inelastic fibers used, more preferably 170 to 220 mm / 100 W, and further preferably 190 to 210 mm. / 100W.
- the yarn length per 100 W was obtained as follows. Mark both ends of 100 continuous knitting loops along the lateral direction (course direction) of the knitted fabric, pull out the thread at the marked part from the knitted fabric, apply a load of fineness x 0.1 g, and its length. To measure.
- the inelastic fibers used when the longest yarn length is 160 mm / 100 W or more, the stretchability of the knitted fabric becomes sufficient, the texture is soft, and it tends to be sufficient as wear. On the other hand, when the longest yarn length of the inelastic fibers used is 240 mm / 100 W or less, the inelastic fibers do not emerge on the surface of the knitted fabric, and the smoothness tends to be excellent. In order to keep the yarn length within the above range while making the knitted fabric dense, it is necessary to adjust the density and the yarn length by significantly shrinking the knitted fabric in post-processing such as dyeing.
- the single yarn fineness of the non-elastic fiber is preferably 0.3 to 3.0 dtex, more preferably 0.5 to 25 dtex, in order not to inhibit the elasticity of the elastic fiber and to obtain a garment having a soft texture. More preferably, it is 0.8 to 2.3 dtex.
- the draft ratio of the elastic fibers of the knitted fabric of the present embodiment is not particularly limited as long as the knitted fabric has an appropriate stretchability and yarn breakage does not occur during knitting, but is in the range of 2.5 to 3.5 times, for example. Is often used.
- the knitted fabric of the present embodiment can be knitted with a flat knitting machine or a single circular knitting machine, and is not particularly limited as long as a basis weight and a sense of organization suitable for the purpose can be obtained.
- the gauge of the knitting machine is also not particularly limited, but it is preferable to arbitrarily select an 18 to 50 gauge knitting machine depending on the application and the thickness of the fiber used, more preferably 24 to 40 gauge, and further. It is preferably 28 to 36 gauge.
- the knitted fabric of this embodiment may be put into a dyeing process such as preset, dyeing, and final set after knitting.
- the processing method may be the same as that of a normal elastic fiber mixed knitted fabric, but in order to achieve the required smoothness, the temperature at the time of presetting, the width-out rate, and the indentation rate in the warp direction should be adjusted. It is preferable to make timely adjustments.
- antifouling processing As ancillary processing at the dyeing stage, antifouling processing, antibacterial processing, deodorizing processing, deodorizing processing, water absorption processing, moisture absorption processing, ultraviolet absorption processing, weight loss processing, etc., and further post-processing such as calendar processing, embossing processing, wrinkle processing, brushing It can be appropriately applied according to the final required characteristics such as processing, opal processing, and softening processing using a silicon-based softener or the like.
- the water absorption process is effective in reducing stickiness when worn as clothing.
- the method and method are not limited, and a hand printing method, a roller printing method, a screen printing method, a gravure printing method, a transfer printing method, an inkjet printing method, etc. Any of the above methods may be adopted, and it is preferable to select an appropriate method depending on the target pattern, the material to be printed, and the like.
- a coloring component an organic or inorganic pigment (including a metal powder) may be used, and a disperse dye, an acid dye, a cationic dye, a reactive dye, a direct dye, or a fluorescent dye is used according to the material to be printed. Etc. may be used alone or in combination.
- the knitted fabric of the present embodiment When the knitted fabric of the present embodiment is used as clothing, it is possible to bond the knitted fabric and the knitted fabric with a crimping tape without sewing.
- the crimping tape to be used is not particularly limited, and a crimping tape suitable for the purpose of use may be used as appropriate.
- the knitted fabric of the present embodiment can be used, for example, for innerwear, sportswear, outerwear, swimwear, etc. that fit the body.
- the needle loop surface is on the skin side, which is larger than that of the garment in which the sinker loop surface of the normal knitted fabric is used on the skin side. Since the coefficient of friction is low and the cool contact value is high, it is easy to feel smoothness and coolness.
- This operation is repeated 3 times, and the dynamic friction coefficient and the standard deviation of the friction coefficient from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction and the dynamic friction coefficient and the friction coefficient standard deviation from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction are calculated for 3 times. Use the calculated value of the average.
- the amount of peeling is more than 0 and 2 mm or less. 3: The amount of peeling is more than 2 and 4 mm or less. 2: The amount of peeling is more than 4 and 6 mm or less. 1: The amount of peeling is more than 6 mm.
- Example 1 Using a 36-gauge single circular knitting machine, a polyurethane elastic fiber 22dtex (A) manufactured from a prepolymer using polytetramethylene glycol for the elastic fiber, and a nylon filament 22dtex20f and a cupra filament 56dtex45f for the non-elastic fiber are temporarily combined.
- a knitting loop composed of a twisted and mixed 80dtex65f mixed fiber (B) and a nylon filament false twisted yarn 78dtex68f (C), and an alignment of the elastic fiber (A) and the inelastic fiber (B), and the above.
- the knitting loops composed of the elastic fibers (A) and the non-elastic fibers (C) are alternately arranged in the well direction of the knitted fabric at a ratio of 1: 1 with respect to the mixed fiber (B).
- a raw machine of bare tenjiku knitted fabric having a length of 10 mm longer for false-twisted yarn (C) was obtained.
- the presetting conditions, dyeing conditions, and finishing conditions for dyeing and finishing the raw machine are the same as those for processing a normal polyurethane elastic fiber-blended knitted fabric, with a basis weight of 130 g / m 2 and a thickness of 0.43 mm.
- Knitted fabrics of 81 courses / inch and 56 wells / inch were obtained. The results are shown in Table 1 below.
- the obtained knitted fabric had good print placement and good peeling resistance of the pressure-bonding tape.
- Example 2 Bare Tenjiku knitting using the same circular knitting machine, elastic fiber, and inelastic fiber as in Example 1 except that the thread length of the inelastic fiber of Example 1 was changed, and the arrangement of the elastic fiber and the inelastic fiber was the same. I got a living machine of the earth. The raw machine was adjusted to have a basis weight of 128 g / m 2 , a thickness of 0.41 mm, a course of 90 pieces / inch, and a well of 54 pieces / inch in the same dyeing step as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in Table 1 below. The obtained knitted fabric had good print placement and good peeling resistance of the pressure-bonding tape.
- Example 3 The same circular knitting machine and elastic fiber as in Example 1 except that a raw machine having the same yarn length of the false twisted yarn (C) was used for the non-elastic fiber mixed yarn (B) of Example 1. , We obtained a raw material for bare woven fabric using non-elastic fibers and having the same arrangement of elastic fibers and non-elastic fibers. The raw machine was adjusted to have a basis weight of 132 g / m 2 , a thickness of 0.46 mm, a course of 75 pieces / inch, and a well of 55 pieces / inch in the same dyeing step as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in Table 1 below. The obtained knitted fabric had good print placement and good peeling resistance of the pressure-bonding tape.
- Example 4 Bare Tenjiku knitting using the same circular knitting machine, elastic fiber, and inelastic fiber as in Example 1 except that the thread length of the inelastic fiber of Example 1 was changed, and the arrangement of the elastic fiber and the inelastic fiber was the same. I got a living machine of the earth. The raw machine was adjusted to have a basis weight of 165 g / m 2 , a thickness of 0.53 mm, a course of 96 pieces / inch, and a well of 56 pieces / inch in the same dyeing step as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in Table 1 below. The obtained knitted fabric had good print placement and good peeling resistance of the pressure-bonding tape.
- Example 5 67dtex65f mixed fiber yarn (B) and nylon filament false twisted yarn 56dtex48f (C), which are composite false twisted blended yarns of nylon filament 22dtex20f and cupra filament 44dtex45f, are used for the inelastic fibers of Example 1, and the respective yarn lengths are adjusted.
- a raw machine of a bare woven fabric was obtained using the same circular knitting machine and elastic fibers as in Example 1 except for the modification, and the arrangement of the elastic fibers and the non-elastic fibers was the same.
- the raw machine was adjusted to have a basis weight of 105 g / m 2 , a thickness of 0.48 mm, a course of 85 pieces / inch, and a well of 50 pieces / inch in the same dyeing step as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric.
- the results are shown in Table 1 below.
- the obtained knitted fabric had good print placement and good peeling resistance of the pressure-bonding tape.
- Example 6 Tenjiku knitted fabric knitted by using only the inelastic fiber mixed yarn (B) and elastic fiber (A) used in Example 5 and aligning the elastic fiber (A) and the mixed fiber yarn (B). I got a living machine. The raw machine was adjusted to have a basis weight of 120 g / m 2 , a thickness of 0.42 mm, a course of 92 pieces / inch, and a well of 57 pieces / inch in the same dyeing step as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in Table 1 below. The obtained knitted fabric had good print placement and good peeling resistance of the pressure-bonding tape.
- Example 1 A bear that uses the same elastic fibers and inelastic fibers as in Example 1 except that the yarn lengths of the circular knitting machine and the inelastic fibers used in Example 1 are changed, and the arrangement of the elastic fibers and the inelastic fibers is also the same.
- Table 1 The results are shown in Table 1 below.
- the obtained knitted fabric had insufficient smoothness on the sinker loop surface, and the print placement and the peeling resistance of the crimping tape were problems in the practical range.
- a raw machine of a bare tenjiku knitted fabric having a three-layer structure in which elastic fibers (A) were arranged in the intermediate layer of the knitted fabric, which were alternately arranged in the well direction at a ratio of 1: 1 was obtained.
- the raw machine was adjusted to have a basis weight of 135 g / m 2 , a thickness of 0.46 mm, a course of 77 pieces / inch, and a well of 50 pieces / inch in the same dyeing step as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric.
- the results are shown in Table 1 below.
- the obtained knitted fabric had insufficient smoothness on the sinker loop surface, and the print placement and the peeling resistance of the crimping tape were problems in the practical range.
- Example 3 A bear that uses the same elastic fibers and inelastic fibers as in Example 1 except that the yarn lengths of the circular knitting machine and the inelastic fibers used in Example 1 are changed, and the arrangement of the elastic fibers and the inelastic fibers is also the same.
- the results are shown in Table 1 below.
- the obtained knitted fabric had insufficient smoothness on the sinker loop surface, and the print placement and the peeling resistance of the crimping tape were problems in the practical range.
- the single knitted fabric of the present invention has improved smoothness of the sinker loop surface, and the difference in the coefficient of dynamic friction between the sinker loop surface and the needle loop surface is small, so that it is easy to place a print on the front and back of the knitted fabric. By doing so, the convenience of the knitted fabric is improved, and the peeling resistance of the crimping tape is also improved. Therefore, the single knitted fabric of the present invention can be suitably used for clothing such as sportswear, casual wear, and underwear with enhanced design.
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Abstract
Description
肌への刺激を軽減するために編地のニードルループ面をウェアの肌側に配置する方法(以下の特許文献1を参照のこと)やウェアの肌側に編地のニードルループ面を配置するとともに、肌触りの良いセルロース繊維をニードルループ面に配置した層構造を有した編地(以下の特許文献2を参照のこと)も提案されているものの、どちらもウェアの外気側がシンカーループ面となり、プリントの載りが悪くなり、良好な品位の意匠柄が得られないとともに、圧着テープの耐剥離性の改善にはならない。
また、以下の特許文献3では、凹凸感等の悪い触感による不快感を低減した肌触りの良い編地とするために、編地裏面に現れるループ間の位置関係を制御した編地が開示されている。しかし、特許文献3には、表裏両面のプリントの載りやすさ及び圧着テープの耐剥離性に対する解決手段は示されていない。
このように、シングル編地の表裏にとらわれずにプリントによる意匠柄の表現ができ、圧着テープの耐剥離性が良好な衣料に適した編地は未だ提供されていない。 Conventionally, as a method of giving a design to a garment, there is a method of giving a design by printing on a knitted fabric. There is also a method of laminating the knitted fabric and the knitted fabric with a crimping tape in order to reduce the seam contact when the knitted fabric is sewn into a garment. However, although the conventional single knitted fabric is lightweight and easy to obtain a thin knitted fabric and has high versatility, printing is suitable only on one direction surface (needle loop surface) of the knitted fabric, and the crimping tape is knitted. The front surface and the back surface (needle loop surface and sinker loop surface) of the ground were attached, but there was some difficulty in the peeling resistance of the crimping tape on the sinker loop surface. In addition, the design is given mainly to the outside air side of the garment by printing, but since the print is made on the relatively smooth needle loop surface of the knitted fabric, the sinker loop surface, which is inferior in smoothness to the needle loop surface, is used as the garment. It had to be placed on the skin side, and I sometimes felt irritation to the skin.
A method of arranging the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric on the skin side of the garment (see Patent Document 1 below) or arranging the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric on the skin side of the garment in order to reduce irritation to the skin. At the same time, a knitted fabric having a layered structure in which soft cellulose fibers are arranged on the needle loop surface (see Patent Document 2 below) has been proposed, but in both cases, the outside air side of the garment becomes the sinker loop surface. The print quality is poor, a design pattern of good quality cannot be obtained, and the peeling resistance of the crimping tape is not improved.
Further, Patent Document 3 below discloses a knitted fabric in which the positional relationship between loops appearing on the back surface of the knitted fabric is controlled in order to obtain a knitted fabric that feels good to the touch and reduces discomfort due to a bad tactile sensation such as unevenness. There is. However, Patent Document 3 does not provide a solution to the ease of printing on both the front and back surfaces and the peeling resistance of the pressure-bonding tape.
As described above, a knitted fabric suitable for clothing, which can express a design pattern by printing regardless of the front and back of a single knitted fabric and has good peeling resistance of a pressure-bonding tape, has not yet been provided.
すなわち、本発明は、以下のとおりのものである。
[1]非弾性繊維と弾性繊維からなる天竺組織のシングル編地であり、該編地のシンカーループ面の編始め方向から編終わり方向に摩擦した際の動摩擦係数が0.500以下であり、該編地のニードルループ面及びシンカーループ面の編始め方向から編終わり方向に摩擦した際の動摩擦係数と編終わり方向から編始め方向に摩擦した際の動摩擦係数の差が共に0.13以下であり、かつ、編始め方向から編終わり方向に摩擦した際のニードルループ面の動摩擦係数とシンカーループ面の動摩擦係数の比が0.70~1.00であることを特徴とする編地。
[2]シンカーループ面の編始め方向から編終わり方向に摩擦した際の摩擦係数の標準偏差が0.500以下であり、シンカーループ面の編始め方向から編終わり方向に摩擦した際の摩擦係数の標準偏差と編終わり方向から編始め方向に摩擦した際の摩擦係数の標準偏差の差が0.200以下である、前記[1]に記載の編地。
[3]ニードルループ面の編始め方向から編終わり方向に摩擦した際の摩擦係数の標準偏差と編終わり方向から編始め方向に摩擦した際の摩擦係数の標準偏差の差が0.025以下である、前記[1]又は[2]に記載の編地。
[4]前記編地のニードルループ面の水拡散面積とシンカーループ面の水拡散面積の比が1.00~1.10である、前記[1]~[3]のいずれかに記載の編地。
[5]前記編地のニードルループ面の接触冷感値とシンカーループ面の接触冷感値の比が1.00~1.30である、前記[1]~[4]のいずれかに記載の編地。
[6]コース数が70~150個/inch及びウェル数が50~80個/inchであり、かつ、密度指数が4000~12000である、前記[1]~[5]のいずれかに記載の編地。
[7]編地内に含まれる非弾性繊維のうち、最も長い非弾性繊維の糸長が160~240mm/100wである、前記[1]~[6]のいずれかに記載の編地。
[8]前記[1]~[7]のいずれかに記載の編地を含む、衣服。
[9]前記編地のニードルループ面が肌側に配されている、前記[8]に記載の衣服。[10]前記非弾性繊維として、セルロース系フィラメント糸を含む糸と、合成繊維からなる糸とを含み、該2種類の糸を、ウェル方向に交互に配置し、生機において該合成繊維からなる糸の糸長を、該セルロース系フィラメント糸を含む糸の糸長よりも5mm~20mm長くする、前記[1]~[7]のいずれかに記載の編地の製造方法。 As a result of diligent studies and experiments to solve the above problems, the inventor of the present application unexpectedly found that a single knitted fabric having a small difference in frictional characteristics between the front and back surfaces could be produced, and completed the present invention. Is.
That is, the present invention is as follows.
[1] It is a single knitted fabric having a tenjiku structure composed of inelastic fibers and elastic fibers, and the coefficient of kinetic friction when the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction is 0.500 or less. The difference between the dynamic friction coefficient when the needle loop surface and the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric are rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction and the dynamic friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction are both 0.13 or less. A knitted fabric characterized in that the ratio of the dynamic friction coefficient of the needle loop surface to the dynamic friction coefficient of the sinker loop surface when rubbing from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction is 0.70 to 1.00.
[2] The standard deviation of the friction coefficient when the sinker loop surface is rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction is 0.500 or less, and the friction coefficient when the sinker loop surface is rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction. The knitted fabric according to the above [1], wherein the difference between the standard deviation of the above and the standard deviation of the friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction is 0.200 or less.
[3] The difference between the standard deviation of the friction coefficient when rubbing the needle loop surface from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction and the standard deviation of the friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction is 0.025 or less. The knitted fabric according to the above [1] or [2].
[4] The knitting according to any one of the above [1] to [3], wherein the ratio of the water diffusion area of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric to the water diffusion area of the sinker loop surface is 1.00 to 1.10. Ground.
[5] The above-mentioned [1] to [4], wherein the ratio of the cool contact value of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric to the cool contact value of the sinker loop surface is 1.00 to 1.30. Knitted fabric.
[6] The above-mentioned [1] to [5], wherein the number of courses is 70 to 150 / inch, the number of wells is 50 to 80 / inch, and the density index is 4000 to 12000. Knitted fabric.
[7] The knitted fabric according to any one of [1] to [6] above, wherein the longest inelastic fiber among the inelastic fibers contained in the knitted fabric has a yarn length of 160 to 240 mm / 100 w.
[8] A garment containing the knitted fabric according to any one of the above [1] to [7].
[9] The garment according to the above [8], wherein the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric is arranged on the skin side. [10] The inelastic fiber includes a thread containing a cellulose-based filament thread and a thread made of a synthetic fiber, and the two types of threads are alternately arranged in the well direction, and the thread made of the synthetic fiber is arranged in a living machine. The method for producing a knitted fabric according to any one of the above [1] to [7], wherein the yarn length of the above is increased by 5 mm to 20 mm from the yarn length of the yarn containing the cellulose-based filament yarn.
本実施形態の編地は、非弾性繊維と弾性繊維からなる天竺組織のシングル編地であり、該編地のシンカーループ面の編始め方向から編終わり方向に摩擦した際の動摩擦係数が0.500以下であり、該編地のニードルループ面及びシンカーループ面の編始め方向から編終わり方向に摩擦した際の動摩擦係数と編終わり方向から編始め方向に摩擦した際の動摩擦係数の差が共に0.13以下であり、かつ、編始め方向から編終わり方向に摩擦した際のニードルループ面の動摩擦係数とシンカーループ面の動摩擦係数の比が0.70~1.00であることを特徴とする。 Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
The knitted fabric of the present embodiment is a single knitted fabric having a tenjiku structure composed of inelastic fibers and elastic fibers, and the coefficient of kinetic friction when the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction is 0. It is 500 or less, and the difference between the dynamic friction coefficient when the needle loop surface and the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric are rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction and the difference between the dynamic friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction are both. It is characterized by being 0.13 or less, and the ratio of the dynamic friction coefficient of the needle loop surface to the dynamic friction coefficient of the sinker loop surface when rubbing from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction is 0.70 to 1.00. To do.
使用される非弾性繊維は、フィラメント糸又は紡績糸のいずれであってもよい。
具体的には、フィラメント糸としては、ポリアミド系繊維、ポリエステル系繊維、アクリル系繊維、ポリプロピレン系繊維、塩化ビニル系繊維等の合成繊維、アセテート等の半合成繊維、及び、セルロース系繊維等の再生繊維といった、化学繊維からなるものが好ましい。フィラメント糸の形態は、原糸(未加工糸)、仮撚加工糸、先染糸などのいずれであってもよく、また、これらの複合糸であってもよい。更にフィラメント糸の断面形状は〇、△、十字、W型、M型、C型、I型、ドッグボーン型、中空糸など特に制限はない。紡績糸としては、木綿、羊毛、麻などの天然繊維や、ポリアミド系繊維、ポリエステル系繊維、アクリル系繊維、ポリプロピレン系繊維、塩化ビニル系繊維等の合成繊維、アセテート等の半合成繊維、及び、セルロース系繊維等の再生繊維といった、化学繊維からなるものでもよく、これらは単独又は混紡されたもの等、いずれであってもよい。すなわち用途によって、適宜好適な素材を選定すればよい。例えば、ウェアとして衣服内の蒸れを軽減するような素材が必要な場合は、セルロース系繊維が良く、更に接触冷感性や速乾性を付与するには、セルロース系繊維からなるフィラメント糸(以降、「セルロース系フィラメント糸」ともいう)とポリエステル系長繊維、もしくはセルロース系フィラメント糸とポリアミド系長繊維を複合仮撚加工糸として用いることが好ましい。又、上記の繊維の2種類(例えば、セルロース系フィラメント糸を含む糸と、合成繊維からなる糸)をウェル方向に1:1、1:2、2:2など交互に配置してもよいし、引き揃えて層構造を有する編地としてもよい。 First, the knitted fabric of the present embodiment is characterized by being composed of elastic fibers and non-elastic fibers.
The inelastic fiber used may be either a filament yarn or a spun yarn.
Specifically, as the filament yarn, synthetic fibers such as polyamide fibers, polyester fibers, acrylic fibers, polypropylene fibers, vinyl chloride fibers, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, and regenerated cellulose fibers are used. Those made of synthetic fibers such as fibers are preferable. The form of the filament yarn may be any of a raw yarn (unprocessed yarn), a false twisted yarn, a yarn-dyed yarn, and the like, or a composite yarn thereof. Further, the cross-sectional shape of the filament yarn is not particularly limited, such as 〇, Δ, cross, W type, M type, C type, I type, dogbone type, and hollow fiber. The spun yarn includes natural fibers such as cotton, wool and hemp, synthetic fibers such as polyamide fibers, polyester fibers, acrylic fibers, polypropylene fibers and vinyl chloride fibers, semi-synthetic fibers such as acetate, and It may be made of chemical fibers such as regenerated fibers such as cellulose-based fibers, and these may be either alone or blended. That is, a suitable material may be appropriately selected depending on the application. For example, when a material that reduces stuffiness in clothes is required as clothing, cellulosic fibers are good, and in order to further impart cool contact feeling and quick-drying properties, filament yarns made of cellulosic fibers (hereinafter, " It is preferable to use "cellulosic filament yarn") and polyester filament, or cellulose filament yarn and polyamide filament as the composite false twisted yarn. Further, the two types of the above fibers (for example, a yarn containing a cellulosic filament yarn and a yarn made of a synthetic fiber) may be alternately arranged in the well direction such as 1: 1, 1: 2, 2: 2. , The knitted fabric may be aligned and have a layered structure.
天竺組織からなるシングル編地は最も単純な編組織であり、生産効率もよく、厚みが薄くできることで、軽量であるのでウェアとして好適である。天竺組織でないシングル編地では、ニードルループ面とシンカーループ面の形状が大きく異なり、その形状を揃え、平滑性を同等にすることが困難となることがある。天竺組織でないシングル編地としては、インレー組織、鹿の子組織等がある。シングル編地でない、ダブル編地やトリコット編地では、シングル編地に比べて生産効率が低く、厚みを薄く、軽量にすることが困難となることがある。天竺組織においては、編地の性能をより付加するために、2種類の非弾性繊維と1種類の弾性繊維からなる、一般的に言われる3層天竺編地としてもよい。3層天竺編地にすることにより、通常の天竺編地よりも非弾性繊維を1種類多く使用できることから、その追加する非弾性繊維の特性を編地に付与することができる。その際の非弾性繊維は付与したい特性を有する繊維を任意に使用すればよい。例えば、吸放湿性を編地に付与したければセルロース繊維を使用すればよい。 The knitted fabric of the present embodiment is characterized by being a single knitted fabric made of a plain fabric.
The single knitted fabric made of a plain fabric is the simplest knitted fabric, has good production efficiency, can be made thin, and is lightweight, so it is suitable as wear. In a single knitted fabric that is not a plain structure, the shapes of the needle loop surface and the sinker loop surface are significantly different, and it may be difficult to align the shapes and make the smoothness equal. Single knitted fabrics that are not Tianzhu organizations include inlay organizations and Kanoko organizations. Double knitted fabrics and tricot knitted fabrics, which are not single knitted fabrics, have lower production efficiency than single knitted fabrics, and may be difficult to reduce in thickness and weight. In the tenjiku structure, in order to further add the performance of the knitted fabric, a generally-called three-layer tenjiku knitted fabric composed of two types of inelastic fibers and one type of elastic fibers may be used. By using a three-layer knitted fabric, one more type of inelastic fiber can be used than in a normal knitted fabric, so that the characteristics of the added inelastic fiber can be imparted to the knitted fabric. As the inelastic fiber at that time, a fiber having the property to be imparted may be arbitrarily used. For example, if it is desired to impart moisture absorption and desorption to the knitted fabric, cellulose fibers may be used.
尚、本実施形態の編地において、編地内の非弾性繊維が容易に抜き出すことができるほうが編終わりとなり、その反対方向が編始めとなる。また、「編始め方向から編終わり方向に摩擦」とは、編始めの方向から編終わりの方向に向かってウェル方向(経方向)に摩擦することを指す。 The knitted fabric of the present embodiment has a dynamic friction coefficient of 0.500 or less, preferably 0.400 or less, more preferably 0.300 or less when the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction. It is as follows. If the coefficient of kinetic friction when rubbing from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric exceeds 0.500, the smoothness of the knitted fabric surface is poor and the print on the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is poor. This may result in a decrease in the peeling resistance of the crimping tape.
In the knitted fabric of the present embodiment, the knitting ends when the inelastic fibers in the knitted fabric can be easily extracted, and the knitting starts in the opposite direction. Further, "friction from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction" means friction in the well direction (warp direction) from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction.
密度指数=編地のコース数(個/inch)×編地のウェル数(個/inch) (1)
により算出され、緻密感の目安となる数値である。密度指数が高いと緻密感が高いものとなる。編地のコース数が70個/inch以上、ウェル数が50個/inch以上、密度指数が4000以上であると、平滑性に必要な緻密性が優れ、プリントの載りが良く、圧着テープの耐剥離性も向上しやすい。編地のコース数が150個/inch以下、ウェル数が80個/inch以下、密度指数が12000以下であると、ハイゲージの編み機の使用や細い繊度の糸の使用を必要とせず、得られた編地が薄すぎず、破裂強度が十分高く、ウェアとしての耐久性が問題になることがない。 The knitted fabric of the present embodiment preferably has a number of courses of 70 to 150 / inch (2.54 cm), a number of wells of 50 to 80 / inch, and a density index of 4000 to 12000. The number of courses of the knitted fabric is more preferably 80 to 130 pieces / inch, still more preferably 90 to 110 pieces / inch. The number of wells in the knitted fabric is more preferably 55 to 70 / inch, still more preferably 55 to 65 / inch. The density index is more preferably 4200 to 10000, still more preferably 4400 to 8000, and particularly preferably 4600 to 6000. The density index is calculated by the following formula (1):
Density index = number of knitted fabric courses (pieces / inch) x number of knitted fabric wells (pieces / inch) (1)
It is a numerical value that is calculated by the above and serves as a guide for a sense of precision. The higher the density index, the higher the sense of precision. When the number of courses of the knitted fabric is 70 / inch or more, the number of wells is 50 / inch or more, and the density index is 4000 or more, the fineness required for smoothness is excellent, the print is good, and the pressure resistance of the crimping tape is good. The peelability is also easy to improve. When the number of courses of the knitted fabric was 150 / inch or less, the number of wells was 80 / inch or less, and the density index was 12000 or less, it was obtained without the need for the use of a high gauge knitting machine or the use of fine yarn. The knitted fabric is not too thin, the burst strength is sufficiently high, and the durability as wear does not become a problem.
使用する非弾性繊維のうち、最も長い糸長が160mm/100W以上であると、編地のストレッチ性が十分なものとなり、風合いが柔らかく、ウェアとして十分なものとなりやすい。他方、使用する非弾性繊維のうち、最も長い糸長が240mm/100W以下であると、編地の表面に非弾性繊維が浮き出すことがなく、平滑性に優れたものになりやすい。尚、編地を緻密にしつつ、糸長を前記範囲にするためには、染色加工等の後加工で大きく収縮させて密度と糸長を調整する必要がある。 The knitted fabric of the present embodiment preferably has the longest yarn length of 160 to 240 mm / 100 W (well) among the inelastic fibers used, more preferably 170 to 220 mm / 100 W, and further preferably 190 to 210 mm. / 100W. The yarn length per 100 W was obtained as follows. Mark both ends of 100 continuous knitting loops along the lateral direction (course direction) of the knitted fabric, pull out the thread at the marked part from the knitted fabric, apply a load of fineness x 0.1 g, and its length. To measure.
Among the inelastic fibers used, when the longest yarn length is 160 mm / 100 W or more, the stretchability of the knitted fabric becomes sufficient, the texture is soft, and it tends to be sufficient as wear. On the other hand, when the longest yarn length of the inelastic fibers used is 240 mm / 100 W or less, the inelastic fibers do not emerge on the surface of the knitted fabric, and the smoothness tends to be excellent. In order to keep the yarn length within the above range while making the knitted fabric dense, it is necessary to adjust the density and the yarn length by significantly shrinking the knitted fabric in post-processing such as dyeing.
実施例、比較例における各評価は次のとおり行った。
(1)動摩擦係数及び摩擦係数の標準偏差
トリニティラボ社製の静・動摩擦測定機トライボマスターType:TL201Tsを使用して測定する。測定する際の条件は、摩擦子:パターンなしタイプ/接触面11mm×15mm、測定荷重:3.75g、摩擦速度30mm/秒、摩擦距離100mmにて、3回往復する。編始め方向から編終わり方向に摩擦を開始し、100mm摩擦した後、摩擦方向が反転し、編終わり方向から編始め方向を摩擦する。この動作を3回繰り返し、各回の編始め方向から編終わり方向の動摩擦係数、摩擦係数の標準偏差及び、編終わり方向から編始め方向の動摩擦係数、摩擦係数の標準偏差を算出し、3回分の平均を算出した値を使用する。 Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples.
Each evaluation in Examples and Comparative Examples was performed as follows.
(1) Dynamic friction coefficient and standard deviation of friction coefficient Tribomaster Type: TL201Ts, a static / dynamic friction measuring machine manufactured by Trinity Lab, is used for measurement. The conditions for measurement are: grinder: patternless type / contact surface 11 mm × 15 mm, measurement load: 3.75 g, friction speed 30 mm / sec, friction distance 100 mm, and reciprocate three times. Friction is started from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction, and after rubbing 100 mm, the friction direction is reversed and the knitting start direction is rubbed from the knitting end direction. This operation is repeated 3 times, and the dynamic friction coefficient and the standard deviation of the friction coefficient from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction and the dynamic friction coefficient and the friction coefficient standard deviation from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction are calculated for 3 times. Use the calculated value of the average.
水又は、住友科学社製の反応染料「Sumifix Brilliant Blue」を水100gに対して0.05g溶解させた染液を、マイクロピペットを使用し、20℃、65%RH下の環境で、アクリル板上に0.1cc水玉状に乗せる。その上に同環境で24時間調湿した布帛から採取した、10cm×10cmの試料を測定面が下になるようにし、染液上に静かに載せ、5分後の染液が拡散された面積を測定する。拡散面積は楕円状に拡散されたと仮定して、タテ方向の拡散長さとヨコ方向の拡散長さから(π/4)×(タテ長さ×ヨコ長さ)として求める。 (2) Water diffusion area Using a micropipette, use a micropipette to dissolve 0.05 g of water or the reactive dye "Sumifix Brilliant Blue" manufactured by Sumitomo Kagaku Co., Ltd. in 100 g of water, under 65% RH. Place 0.1cc polka dots on an acrylic plate in the above environment. A 10 cm x 10 cm sample collected from a fabric that has been humidity-controlled for 24 hours in the same environment is gently placed on the dyeing solution with the measurement surface facing down, and the area where the dyeing solution is diffused after 5 minutes. To measure. The diffusion area is calculated as (π / 4) × (vertical length × horizontal length) from the diffusion length in the vertical direction and the diffusion length in the horizontal direction, assuming that the diffusion area is elliptical.
20℃×65%環境下において調湿された8cm×8cmにカットされた編地を、カトーテック社製KES-F7-IIにて、冷却ベースを20℃±0.5℃の範囲に設定し、冷却ベースの上に編地の肌面が上になるように編地を置く。その後、冷却ベースの温度+10℃に温められた該装置の熱板を編地の肌面に置いた時の最大熱移動量(W/cm2)を測定する。 (3) Contact cooling sensation value 20 ° C x 65% The knitted fabric cut to 8 cm x 8 cm, which was adjusted in humidity in an environment, was used with KES-F7-II manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd., and the cooling base was 20 ° C ± 0. Set to a range of 5 ° C and place the knitted fabric on the cooling base with the skin surface of the knitted fabric facing up. Then, the maximum heat transfer amount (W / cm 2 ) when the hot plate of the apparatus heated to the temperature of the cooling base + 10 ° C. is placed on the skin surface of the knitted fabric is measured.
作製した編地のシンカーループ面にドット柄のプリントを乗せ、JIS-L-1096-G法に準じた洗濯処理を100回実施した際のブリント柄の状態を以下の評価基準で目視判定した。実用上問題がないのは下記の基準で3以上である:
5 : プリントのひび割れや剥がれが全くない。
4 : プリントのひび割れや剥がれが全体の0超20%以下発生している。
3 : プリントのひび割れや剥がれが全体の20超40%以下発生している。
2 : プリントのひび割れや剥がれが全体の40超60%以下発生している。
1 : プリントのひび割れや剥がれが全体の60%超発生している。 (4) Print placement The following shows the state of the Blind pattern when a dot pattern print is placed on the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric and the washing process according to the JIS-L-1096-G method is performed 100 times. Visual judgment was made based on the evaluation criteria. There is no problem in practical use with 3 or more according to the following criteria:
5: There are no cracks or peeling of the print.
4: The print is cracked or peeled off from 0 to 20% or less of the total.
3: The print is cracked or peeled off more than 20% and 40% or less of the whole.
2: The print is cracked or peeled off more than 40% and 60% or less of the whole.
1: More than 60% of the prints are cracked or peeled off.
作製した編地から幅50mm×長さ150mmの試料を2枚採取し、採取した試料1枚のシンカーループ面ともう一枚の試料のニードルループ面の試料の端から10mmの位置に幅10mmの圧着テープを張り合わせる。その試料をJIS-L-1096-G法に準じた洗濯処理を100回実施し、試料の全幅をつかむように引張試験機にセットし、14.7Nの荷重を加え、1分間保持後の剥離量を測定した。実用上問題がないのは下記の基準で3以上である:
5 : 剥離量が0mmである。
4 : 剥離量が0超2mm以下である。
3 : 剥離量が2超4mm以下である。
2 : 剥離量が4超6mm以下である。
1 : 剥離量が6mm超である。 (5) Peeling resistance of pressure-bonding tape Two samples with a width of 50 mm and a length of 150 mm were collected from the prepared knitted fabric, and the sample on the sinker loop surface of one sample and the sample on the needle loop surface of another sample were collected. A crimping tape with a width of 10 mm is attached at a position 10 mm from the end. The sample was washed 100 times according to the JIS-L-1096-G method, set in a tensile tester so as to grasp the entire width of the sample, a load of 14.7 N was applied, and the sample was peeled off after being held for 1 minute. The amount was measured. There is no problem in practical use with 3 or more according to the following criteria:
5: The amount of peeling is 0 mm.
4: The amount of peeling is more than 0 and 2 mm or less.
3: The amount of peeling is more than 2 and 4 mm or less.
2: The amount of peeling is more than 4 and 6 mm or less.
1: The amount of peeling is more than 6 mm.
36ゲージシングル丸編機を用いて、弾性繊維にはポリテトラメチレングリコールを用いたプレポリマーから製造されるポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtex(A)、非弾性繊維にはナイロンフィラメント22dtex20fとキュプラフィラメント56dtex45fを複合仮撚混繊した80dtex65fの混繊糸(B)とナイロンフィラメント仮撚加工糸78dtex68f(C)を、前記弾性繊維(A)と前記非弾性繊維(B)の引き揃えで構成される編みループと前記弾性繊維(A)と前記非弾性繊維(C)の引き揃えで構成される編みループが、編地のウェル方向に1:1の割合で交互に配置され、混繊糸(B)に対して、仮撚加工糸(C)の糸長が10mm長い、ベア天竺編地の生機を得た。その生機を染色仕上げ加工する際のプレセット条件や染色条件、仕上げ条件は通常のポリウレタン弾性繊維混の編地を加工する条件と同様の加工を行い、目付130g/m2、厚み0.43mm、コース81個/inch、ウェル56個/inchの編地を得た。結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地はプリントの載りが良く、圧着テープの耐剥離性も良好な編地であった。 [Example 1]
Using a 36-gauge single circular knitting machine, a polyurethane elastic fiber 22dtex (A) manufactured from a prepolymer using polytetramethylene glycol for the elastic fiber, and a nylon filament 22dtex20f and a cupra filament 56dtex45f for the non-elastic fiber are temporarily combined. A knitting loop composed of a twisted and mixed 80dtex65f mixed fiber (B) and a nylon filament false twisted yarn 78dtex68f (C), and an alignment of the elastic fiber (A) and the inelastic fiber (B), and the above. The knitting loops composed of the elastic fibers (A) and the non-elastic fibers (C) are alternately arranged in the well direction of the knitted fabric at a ratio of 1: 1 with respect to the mixed fiber (B). , A raw machine of bare tenjiku knitted fabric having a length of 10 mm longer for false-twisted yarn (C) was obtained. The presetting conditions, dyeing conditions, and finishing conditions for dyeing and finishing the raw machine are the same as those for processing a normal polyurethane elastic fiber-blended knitted fabric, with a basis weight of 130 g / m 2 and a thickness of 0.43 mm. Knitted fabrics of 81 courses / inch and 56 wells / inch were obtained. The results are shown in Table 1 below. The obtained knitted fabric had good print placement and good peeling resistance of the pressure-bonding tape.
実施例1の非弾性繊維の糸長を変更した以外は、実施例1と同じ丸編機、弾性繊維、非弾性繊維を使用し、弾性繊維と非弾性繊維の配置も同じとしたベア天竺編地の生機を得た。その生機を実施例1と同じ染色工程で、目付128g/m2、厚み0.41mm、コース90個/inch、ウェル54個/inchになるように調整し、編地を得た。結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地はプリントの載りが良く、圧着テープの耐剥離性も良好な編地であった。 [Example 2]
Bare Tenjiku knitting using the same circular knitting machine, elastic fiber, and inelastic fiber as in Example 1 except that the thread length of the inelastic fiber of Example 1 was changed, and the arrangement of the elastic fiber and the inelastic fiber was the same. I got a living machine of the earth. The raw machine was adjusted to have a basis weight of 128 g / m 2 , a thickness of 0.41 mm, a course of 90 pieces / inch, and a well of 54 pieces / inch in the same dyeing step as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in Table 1 below. The obtained knitted fabric had good print placement and good peeling resistance of the pressure-bonding tape.
実施例1の非弾性繊維の混繊糸(B)に対して、仮撚加工糸(C)の糸長を同一にした生機を使用した以外は、実施例1と同じ丸編機、弾性繊維、非弾性繊維を使用し、弾性繊維と非弾性繊維の配置も同じとしたベア天竺編地の生機を得た。その生機を実施例1と同じ染色工程で、目付132g/m2、厚み0.46mm、コース75個/inch、ウェル55個/inchになるように調整し、編地を得た。結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地はプリントの載りが良く、圧着テープの耐剥離性も良好な編地であった。 [Example 3]
The same circular knitting machine and elastic fiber as in Example 1 except that a raw machine having the same yarn length of the false twisted yarn (C) was used for the non-elastic fiber mixed yarn (B) of Example 1. , We obtained a raw material for bare woven fabric using non-elastic fibers and having the same arrangement of elastic fibers and non-elastic fibers. The raw machine was adjusted to have a basis weight of 132 g / m 2 , a thickness of 0.46 mm, a course of 75 pieces / inch, and a well of 55 pieces / inch in the same dyeing step as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in Table 1 below. The obtained knitted fabric had good print placement and good peeling resistance of the pressure-bonding tape.
実施例1の非弾性繊維の糸長を変更した以外は、実施例1と同じ丸編機、弾性繊維、非弾性繊維を使用し、弾性繊維と非弾性繊維の配置も同じとしたベア天竺編地の生機を得た。その生機を実施例1と同じ染色工程で、目付165g/m2、厚み0.53mm、コース96個/inch、ウェル56個/inchになるように調整し、編地を得た。結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地はプリントの載りが良く、圧着テープの耐剥離性も良好な編地であった。 [Example 4]
Bare Tenjiku knitting using the same circular knitting machine, elastic fiber, and inelastic fiber as in Example 1 except that the thread length of the inelastic fiber of Example 1 was changed, and the arrangement of the elastic fiber and the inelastic fiber was the same. I got a living machine of the earth. The raw machine was adjusted to have a basis weight of 165 g / m 2 , a thickness of 0.53 mm, a course of 96 pieces / inch, and a well of 56 pieces / inch in the same dyeing step as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in Table 1 below. The obtained knitted fabric had good print placement and good peeling resistance of the pressure-bonding tape.
実施例1の非弾性繊維にナイロンフィラメント22dtex20fとキュプラフィラメント44dtex45fを複合仮撚混繊した67dtex65fの混繊糸(B)とナイロンフィラメント仮撚加工糸56dtex48f(C)を使用し、各々の糸長を変更した以外は、実施例1と同じ丸編機、弾性繊維を使用し、弾性繊維と非弾性繊維の配置も同じとしたベア天竺編地の生機を得た。その生機を実施例1と同じ染色工程で、目付105g/m2、厚み0.48mm、コース85個/inch、ウェル50個/inchになるように調整し、編地を得た。結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地はプリントの載りが良く、圧着テープの耐剥離性も良好な編地であった。 [Example 5]
67dtex65f mixed fiber yarn (B) and nylon filament false twisted yarn 56dtex48f (C), which are composite false twisted blended yarns of nylon filament 22dtex20f and cupra filament 44dtex45f, are used for the inelastic fibers of Example 1, and the respective yarn lengths are adjusted. A raw machine of a bare woven fabric was obtained using the same circular knitting machine and elastic fibers as in Example 1 except for the modification, and the arrangement of the elastic fibers and the non-elastic fibers was the same. The raw machine was adjusted to have a basis weight of 105 g / m 2 , a thickness of 0.48 mm, a course of 85 pieces / inch, and a well of 50 pieces / inch in the same dyeing step as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in Table 1 below. The obtained knitted fabric had good print placement and good peeling resistance of the pressure-bonding tape.
実施例5で使用した非弾性繊維の混繊糸(B)と弾性繊維(A)だけを使用し、前記弾性繊維(A)と混繊糸(B)を引き揃えて編まれた天竺編地の生機を得た。その生機を実施例1と同じ染色工程で、目付120g/m2、厚み0.42mm、コース92個/inch、ウェル57個/inchになるように調整し、編地を得た。結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地はプリントの載りが良く、圧着テープの耐剥離性も良好な編地であった。 [Example 6]
Tenjiku knitted fabric knitted by using only the inelastic fiber mixed yarn (B) and elastic fiber (A) used in Example 5 and aligning the elastic fiber (A) and the mixed fiber yarn (B). I got a living machine. The raw machine was adjusted to have a basis weight of 120 g / m 2 , a thickness of 0.42 mm, a course of 92 pieces / inch, and a well of 57 pieces / inch in the same dyeing step as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in Table 1 below. The obtained knitted fabric had good print placement and good peeling resistance of the pressure-bonding tape.
実施例1で使用した丸編機、非弾性繊維の糸長を変更した以外は、実施例1と同じ弾性繊維、非弾性繊維を使用し、弾性繊維と非弾性繊維の配置も同じとしたベア天竺編地の生機を得た。その生機を実施例1と同じ染色工程で、目付134g/m2、厚み0.49mm、コース91個/inch、ウェル45個/inchになるように調整し、編地を得た。結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地はシンカーループ面の平滑性が不十分で、プリントの載り及び圧着テープの耐剥離性が実用範囲上問題となる編地であった。 [Comparative Example 1]
A bear that uses the same elastic fibers and inelastic fibers as in Example 1 except that the yarn lengths of the circular knitting machine and the inelastic fibers used in Example 1 are changed, and the arrangement of the elastic fibers and the inelastic fibers is also the same. I got a raw machine of Tenjiku knitted fabric. The raw machine was adjusted to have a basis weight of 134 g / m 2 , a thickness of 0.49 mm, a course of 91 pieces / inch, and a well of 45 pieces / inch in the same dyeing step as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in Table 1 below. The obtained knitted fabric had insufficient smoothness on the sinker loop surface, and the print placement and the peeling resistance of the crimping tape were problems in the practical range.
32ゲージシングル丸編機を用いて、弾性繊維にはポリテトラメチレングリコールを用いたプレポリマーから製造されるポリウレタン弾性繊維22dtex(A)、非弾性繊維にはキュプラフィラメント糸(B)とポリエステルフィラメント仮撚加工糸56dtex72f(C)を、編地のニードルループ面に前記非弾性繊維(C)、編地のシンカーループ面に前記非弾性繊維(B)と前記非弾性繊維(C)が編地のウェル方向に1:1の割合で交互に配置され、編地の中間層に弾性繊維(A)を配置するような3層構造のベア天竺編地の生機を得た。その生機を実施例1と同じ染色工程で、目付135g/m2、厚み0.46mm、コース77個/inch、ウェル50個/inchになるように調整し、編地を得た。結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地はシンカーループ面の平滑性が不十分で、プリントの載り及び圧着テープの耐剥離性が実用範囲上問題となる編地であった。 [Comparative Example 2]
Using a 32-gauge single circular knitting machine, polyurethane elastic fiber 22dtex (A) manufactured from prepolymer using polytetramethylene glycol for elastic fiber, cupra filament yarn (B) and polyester filament temporary for non-elastic fiber The twisted yarn 56dtex72f (C) has the inelastic fibers (C) on the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric, and the inelastic fibers (B) and the inelastic fibers (C) on the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric. A raw machine of a bare tenjiku knitted fabric having a three-layer structure in which elastic fibers (A) were arranged in the intermediate layer of the knitted fabric, which were alternately arranged in the well direction at a ratio of 1: 1 was obtained. The raw machine was adjusted to have a basis weight of 135 g / m 2 , a thickness of 0.46 mm, a course of 77 pieces / inch, and a well of 50 pieces / inch in the same dyeing step as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in Table 1 below. The obtained knitted fabric had insufficient smoothness on the sinker loop surface, and the print placement and the peeling resistance of the crimping tape were problems in the practical range.
実施例1で使用した丸編機、非弾性繊維の糸長を変更した以外は、実施例1と同じ弾性繊維、非弾性繊維を使用し、弾性繊維と非弾性繊維の配置も同じとしたベア天竺編地の生機を得た。その生機を実施例1と同じ染色工程で、目付118g/m2、厚み0.43mm、コース87個/inch、ウェル40個/inchになるように調整し、編地を得た。結果を以下の表1に示す。得られた編地はシンカーループ面の平滑性が不十分で、プリントの載り及び圧着テープの耐剥離性が実用範囲上問題となる編地であった。 [Comparative Example 3]
A bear that uses the same elastic fibers and inelastic fibers as in Example 1 except that the yarn lengths of the circular knitting machine and the inelastic fibers used in Example 1 are changed, and the arrangement of the elastic fibers and the inelastic fibers is also the same. I got a raw machine of Tenjiku knitted fabric. The raw machine was adjusted to have a basis weight of 118 g / m 2 , a thickness of 0.43 mm, a course of 87 pieces / inch, and a well of 40 pieces / inch in the same dyeing step as in Example 1 to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in Table 1 below. The obtained knitted fabric had insufficient smoothness on the sinker loop surface, and the print placement and the peeling resistance of the crimping tape were problems in the practical range.
Claims (10)
- 非弾性繊維と弾性繊維からなる天竺組織のシングル編地であり、該編地のシンカーループ面の編始め方向から編終わり方向に摩擦した際の動摩擦係数が0.500以下であり、該編地のニードルループ面及びシンカーループ面の編始め方向から編終わり方向に摩擦した際の動摩擦係数と編終わり方向から編始め方向に摩擦した際の動摩擦係数の差が共に0.13以下であり、かつ、編始め方向から編終わり方向に摩擦した際のニードルループ面の動摩擦係数とシンカーループ面の動摩擦係数の比が0.70~1.00であることを特徴とする編地。 It is a single knitted fabric made of non-elastic fibers and elastic fibers, and has a dynamic friction coefficient of 0.500 or less when the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction. The difference between the dynamic friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction and the dynamic friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction of the needle loop surface and sinker loop surface is 0.13 or less, and , A knitted fabric characterized in that the ratio of the dynamic friction coefficient of the needle loop surface to the dynamic friction coefficient of the sinker loop surface when rubbing from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction is 0.70 to 1.00.
- シンカーループ面の編始め方向から編終わり方向に摩擦した際の摩擦係数の標準偏差が0.500以下であり、シンカーループ面の編始め方向から編終わり方向に摩擦した際の摩擦係数の標準偏差と編終わり方向から編始め方向に摩擦した際の摩擦係数の標準偏差の差が0.200以下である、請求項1に記載の編地。 The standard deviation of the friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction of the sinker loop surface is 0.500 or less, and the standard deviation of the friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction of the sinker loop surface. The knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the difference between the standard deviations of the friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction is 0.200 or less.
- ニードルループ面の編始め方向から編終わり方向に摩擦した際の摩擦係数の標準偏差と編終わり方向から編始め方向に摩擦した際の摩擦係数の標準偏差の差が0.025以下である、請求項1又は2に記載の編地。 Claimed that the difference between the standard deviation of the friction coefficient when rubbing the needle loop surface from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction and the standard deviation of the friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction is 0.025 or less. Item 1. The knitted fabric according to Item 1 or 2.
- 前記編地のニードルループ面の水拡散面積とシンカーループ面の水拡散面積の比が1.00~1.10である、請求項1~3のいずれか1項に記載の編地。 The knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the ratio of the water diffusion area of the needle loop surface to the water diffusion area of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is 1.00 to 1.10.
- 前記編地のニードルループ面の接触冷感値とシンカーループ面の接触冷感値の比が1.00~1.30である、請求項1~4のいずれか1項に記載の編地。 The knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the ratio of the cool contact value of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric to the cool contact value of the sinker loop surface is 1.00 to 1.30.
- コース数が70~150個/inch及びウェル数が50~80個/inchであり、かつ、密度指数が4000~12000である、請求項1~5のいずれか1項に記載の編地。 The knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the number of courses is 70 to 150 / inch, the number of wells is 50 to 80 / inch, and the density index is 4000 to 12000.
- 編地内に含まれる非弾性繊維のうち、最も長い非弾性繊維の糸長が160~240mm/100wである、請求項1~6のいずれか1項に記載の編地。 The knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the longest inelastic fiber among the inelastic fibers contained in the knitted fabric has a yarn length of 160 to 240 mm / 100 w.
- 請求項1~7のいずれか1項に記載の編地を含む、衣服。 Clothing containing the knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7.
- 前記編地のニードルループ面が肌側に配されている、請求項8に記載の衣服。 The garment according to claim 8, wherein the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric is arranged on the skin side.
- 前記非弾性繊維として、セルロース系フィラメント糸を含む糸と、合成繊維からなる糸とを含み、該2種類の糸を、ウェル方向に交互に配置し、生機において該合成繊維からなる糸の糸長を該セルロース系フィラメント糸を含む糸の糸長よりも5mm~20mm長くする、請求項1~7のいずれか1項に記載の編地の製造方法。 The inelastic fiber includes a thread containing a cellulose-based filament thread and a thread made of a synthetic fiber, and the two types of threads are alternately arranged in the well direction, and the thread length of the thread made of the synthetic fiber is arranged in a living machine. The method for producing a knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the yarn length is 5 mm to 20 mm longer than the yarn length of the yarn containing the cellulose-based filament yarn.
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