CN113853459A - Knitted fabric and garment - Google Patents
Knitted fabric and garment Download PDFInfo
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- CN113853459A CN113853459A CN202080035226.9A CN202080035226A CN113853459A CN 113853459 A CN113853459 A CN 113853459A CN 202080035226 A CN202080035226 A CN 202080035226A CN 113853459 A CN113853459 A CN 113853459A
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A41—WEARING APPAREL
- A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
- A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/16—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials synthetic threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/14—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
- D04B1/18—Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
- D04B—KNITTING
- D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
- D04B1/22—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration
- D04B1/24—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes specially adapted for knitting goods of particular configuration wearing apparel
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2201/00—Cellulose-based fibres, e.g. vegetable fibres
- D10B2201/20—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres
- D10B2201/22—Cellulose-derived artificial fibres made from cellulose solutions
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/02—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyamides
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2331/00—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
- D10B2331/10—Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyurethanes
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/02—Underwear
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- D—TEXTILES; PAPER
- D10—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B—INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
- D10B2501/00—Wearing apparel
- D10B2501/04—Outerwear; Protective garments
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- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Textile Engineering (AREA)
- Knitting Of Fabric (AREA)
- Knitting Machines (AREA)
Abstract
Provided is a single-layer knitted fabric which is easily printed on both the front and back surfaces of the knitted fabric and has excellent peel resistance of a pressure-sensitive adhesive tape. The present invention relates to a knitted fabric and a garment including the knitted fabric, the knitted fabric being a single layer knitted fabric of a plain stitch formed of inelastic fibers and elastic fibers, the knitted fabric having sinker loops of which a dynamic friction coefficient when rubbed from a knitting start direction to a knitting end direction is 0.500 or less, the knitted fabric having the sinker loops of which a difference between the dynamic friction coefficient when rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction and the dynamic friction coefficient when rubbed from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction is 0.13 or less, and the knitted fabric being characterized in that a ratio of the dynamic friction coefficient of the needle loops when rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction to the dynamic friction coefficient of the sinker loops is 0.70 to 1.00.
Description
Technical Field
The present invention relates to a knitted fabric and a garment.
Background
Conventionally, as a method for imparting design to clothing, there is a method for imparting a design pattern to a knitted fabric by printing. In addition, in order to reduce stitch contact when a knitted fabric is sewn to form a garment, there is also a method of attaching the knitted fabric to the knitted fabric with a pressure-sensitive adhesive tape. However, although a conventional single-layer knitted fabric is easy to obtain, is light and thin, and has high versatility, it is suitable only for printing on the surface (the needle loop surface) of the knitted fabric in one direction, and the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape sticks the surface and the back surface (the needle loop surface and the sinker loop surface) of the knitted fabric, but the peel resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape of the sinker loop surface has some difficulties. In addition, although the design is mainly provided by printing on the outside air side of the garment, since printing is performed on the relatively smooth needle loop surface of the knitted fabric, it is necessary to dispose a sinking arc surface having a lower smoothness than the needle loop surface on the skin side of the garment, and irritation to the skin may be felt.
Although also proposed: however, in these techniques, the outer air side of the garment becomes a sinker loop, adhesion of printing is deteriorated, a design pattern of good quality is not obtained, and the peel resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape is not improved.
Further, patent document 3 below discloses a knitted fabric in which the positional relationship between stitches appearing on the back surface of the knitted fabric is controlled in order to produce a knitted fabric having a good skin feeling in which discomfort due to poor touch such as uneven touch is reduced. However, patent document 3 does not provide a solution to the ease of adhesion and the peel resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape in printing on both the front and back surfaces.
As described above, there has not been provided a knitted fabric suitable for clothing which can express a design pattern by printing, is not limited to the front and back surfaces of a single-layer knitted fabric, and has excellent peeling resistance of a pressure-sensitive adhesive tape.
Documents of the prior art
Patent document
Patent document 1: japanese patent laid-open publication No. 2013-213300
Patent document 2: international publication No. 2018/180801
Patent document 3: japanese patent laid-open No. 2015/218407
Disclosure of Invention
Problems to be solved by the invention
In view of the above-described conventional technology, an object of the present invention is to provide a single-layer knitted fabric which is easy to print on both the front and back surfaces of the knitted fabric and has excellent peel resistance of a pressure-sensitive adhesive tape.
Means for solving the problems
The present inventors have intensively studied and repeatedly conducted experiments to solve the above-mentioned problems, and as a result, have unexpectedly found that a single-layer knitted fabric having a small difference in frictional characteristics between the front surface and the back surface can be produced, thereby completing the present invention.
Namely, the present invention is as follows.
[1] A knitted fabric is a single-layer knitted fabric of a plain stitch formed of inelastic fibers and elastic fibers, wherein the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric has a coefficient of dynamic friction when rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction of 0.500 or less, the difference between the coefficient of dynamic friction when rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction and the coefficient of dynamic friction when rubbed from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction of the needle loop surface and the sinker loop surface is 0.13 or less, and the ratio of the coefficient of dynamic friction of the needle loop surface when rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction to the coefficient of dynamic friction of the sinker loop surface is 0.70 to 1.00.
[2] The knitted fabric according to the above [1], wherein a standard deviation of a friction coefficient when the sinker loop faces in the knitting end direction from the knitting start direction is 0.500 or less, and a difference between the standard deviation of the friction coefficient when the sinker loop faces in the knitting end direction from the knitting start direction and the standard deviation of the friction coefficient when the sinker loop faces in the knitting start direction from the knitting end direction is 0.200 or less.
[3] The knitted fabric according to the above [1] or [2], wherein a difference between a standard deviation of a friction coefficient when the needle loop surface is rubbed from a knitting start direction toward a knitting end direction and a standard deviation of a friction coefficient when the needle loop surface is rubbed from the knitting end direction toward the knitting start direction is 0.025 or less.
[4] The knitted fabric according to any one of the above [1] to [3], wherein a ratio of a water diffusion area of the needle loop surface to a water diffusion area of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is 1.00 to 1.10.
[5] The knitted fabric according to any one of the above [1] to [4], wherein a ratio of a contact cold feeling value of the needle loop surface to a contact cold feeling value of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is 1.00 to 1.30.
[6] The knitted fabric according to any one of the above [1] to [5], wherein the number of courses is 70 to 150 per inch, the number of wales is 50 to 80 per inch, and the density index is 4000 to 12000.
[7] The knitted fabric according to any one of the above [1] to [6], wherein the yarn length of the longest inelastic fiber among the inelastic fibers contained in the knitted fabric is 160 to 240mm/100 w.
[8] A garment comprising the knitted fabric according to any one of the above [1] to [7 ].
[9] The garment according to item [8], wherein the needle-knitted loop surface of the knitted fabric is disposed on the skin side.
[10] A method for producing the knitted fabric according to any one of the above [1] to [7], wherein the non-elastic fiber includes: the yarn comprising the cellulose-based filament yarn and the yarn comprising the synthetic fiber are alternately arranged in the wale direction, and the yarn length of the yarn comprising the synthetic fiber is 5mm to 20mm longer than the yarn length of the yarn comprising the cellulose-based filament yarn in the raw fabric.
ADVANTAGEOUS EFFECTS OF INVENTION
The single-layer knitted fabric of the present invention has improved smoothness of the sinker loop surface and a small difference in coefficient of dynamic friction between the sinker loop surface and the needle loop surface, and therefore, printing is easily applied to both the front and back surfaces of the knitted fabric, thereby improving the convenience of the knitted fabric and also improving the peel resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape.
Drawings
FIG. 1 is a schematic view of a needle stitch arc surface and a sinker arc surface of a plain stitch.
Detailed Description
Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
The knitted fabric of the present embodiment is a single layer knitted fabric of plain (geranium) stitch formed of inelastic fibers and elastic fibers, the knitted fabric having sinker loops of which the dynamic friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction is 0.500 or less, the knitted fabric having needle loops and sinker loops of which the difference between the dynamic friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction and the dynamic friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction is 0.13 or less, and the ratio of the dynamic friction coefficient of the needle loops when rubbing from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction to the dynamic friction coefficient of the sinker loops being 0.70 to 1.00.
First, the knitted fabric of the present embodiment is characterized by being formed of elastic fibers and inelastic fibers.
The non-elastic fibers used may be any of filament yarns or spun yarns.
Specifically, the filament yarn is preferably a filament yarn made of chemical fibers such as synthetic fibers including polyamide fibers, polyester fibers, acrylic fibers, polypropylene fibers and vinyl chloride fibers, semisynthetic fibers including acetate fibers, and regenerated fibers including cellulose fibers. The form of the filament yarn may be any of raw yarn (raw yarn), false twist yarn, dyed yarn, and the like, or may be a composite yarn thereof. Further, the cross-sectional shape of the filament yarn may be good, Δ, cross, W-type, M-type, C-type, I-type, dog-bone type, hollow yarn, etc., and is not particularly limited. The spun yarn may be any of spun yarns made of chemical fibers such as natural fibers including cotton, wool, hemp, and the like, polyamide fibers, polyester fibers, acrylic fibers, polypropylene fibers, synthetic fibers including vinyl chloride fibers, semisynthetic fibers including acetate fibers, and regenerated fibers including cellulose fibers, and may be spun yarns made of these fibers alone or by blending. That is, an appropriate material may be selected according to the application. For example, when a material that can reduce the stuffiness in the clothing is required as clothing, cellulose fibers are preferable, and in order to impart a cool touch feeling and quick-drying properties, a composite false-twisted yarn made of a filament yarn made of cellulose fibers (hereinafter also referred to as "cellulose filament yarn") and a polyester-based long fiber, or a cellulose filament yarn and a polyamide-based long fiber is preferably used. In addition, 2 kinds of the above fibers (for example, a yarn including a cellulose-based filament yarn and a yarn formed of a synthetic fiber) may be arranged in a wale direction in a ratio of 1: 1. 1: 2. 2: 2, etc. may be arranged alternately, and the knitted fabric having a layer structure may be produced by doubling.
When the inelastic fiber is formed of two types of yarn including cellulosic filament yarn and yarn including synthetic fiber and the two types of yarn are alternately arranged in the wale direction, the yarn length of the yarn including synthetic fiber is preferably set to be 5mm to 20mm longer than the yarn length of the yarn including cellulosic filament yarn to manufacture a raw fabric. Since the cellulose-based filaments have low heat shrinkage and crimp behavior, yarns made of only cellulose-based filaments, such as yarns and composite yarns, which include cellulose-based filaments also have low heat shrinkage and crimp behavior. On the other hand, a yarn made of synthetic fiber has a larger thermal shrinkage than a yarn containing cellulose filaments, and a large crimp behavior is exhibited when a false twist yarn is produced. Therefore, in the production of a knitted fabric in which a yarn including a cellulose-based filament yarn and a yarn made of a synthetic fiber are alternately arranged in the wale direction, it is preferable to set the yarn length of the yarn made of the synthetic fiber to be long in the stage of producing a raw fabric in order to reduce unevenness of a finished fabric and improve smoothness. When the yarn length of the synthetic fiber is longer by 5mm to 20mm than the yarn length of the yarn including the cellulose-based filament yarn, unevenness is less likely to be formed on the surface of the finished fabric, and particularly, the standard deviation of the friction coefficient is likely to be reduced, which is preferable.
The elastic fiber to be used may be a polyurethane elastic yarn, a polyether ester elastic yarn, a polyamide elastic yarn, a polyolefin elastic yarn, or an elastic fiber obtained by covering these yarns with a non-elastic fiber in a covered state. Further, a yarn-like so-called rubber yarn made of natural rubber, synthetic rubber, or semi-synthetic rubber may be used, but a polyurethane elastic yarn which is excellent in stretchability and is widely used in general is suitable. Among them, polyurethane elastic yarn is preferable, and polyurethane elastic yarn formed of polyurethane produced as follows is more preferable: a prepolymer formed from poly (1, 4-butanediol) and diphenylmethane-4, 4-diisocyanate is subjected to a chain extension reaction using ethylenediamine as a chain extender, thereby producing the polyurethane.
The knitted fabric of the present embodiment is a single-layer knitted fabric formed of a plain stitch.
A single-layer knitted fabric formed of a plain stitch is a simplest knitted structure, has good productivity, can be thin, and is lightweight, and therefore is suitable as a garment. In the case of a single layer knitted fabric having a non-plain stitch structure, the needle loop surface and the sinker loop surface have significantly different shapes, and it may be difficult to make the shapes uniform and to make the smoothness uniform. The single-layer knitted fabric having a non-plain stitch includes a mosaic stitch, a bead mesh stitch, and the like. Double-sided knitted fabrics and warp knitted fabrics, which are non-single-layer knitted fabrics, are less efficient in production than single-layer knitted fabrics, and it is sometimes difficult to reduce the thickness and weight. In the plain stitch, in order to further impart the properties to the knitted fabric, a so-called 3-layer plain stitch knitted fabric formed of 2 types of inelastic fibers and 1 type of elastic fibers may be used. By providing a 3-layer plain knitted fabric, 1 type of inelastic fiber can be used more than a normal plain knitted fabric, and therefore the characteristics of the additional inelastic fiber can be imparted to the knitted fabric. In this case, the inelastic fiber may be any fiber having a desired property. For example, if it is desired to impart moisture absorption and moisture elimination properties to the knitted fabric, cellulose fibers may be used.
In the knitted fabric of the present embodiment, the coefficient of dynamic friction when the sinker loops of the knitted fabric are rubbed from the knitting start direction toward the knitting end direction is 0.500 or less, preferably 0.400 or less, and more preferably 0.300 or less. If the coefficient of dynamic friction of the sinker loop of the knitted fabric when rubbed from the knitting-starting direction to the knitting-ending direction exceeds 0.500, the knitted fabric surface will have poor smoothness, resulting in poor adhesion of the printing of the sinker loop of the knitted fabric, and a decrease in the peel resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape.
In the knitted fabric of the present embodiment, one side from which the inelastic fibers in the knitted fabric can be easily pulled out is a knitting end, and the opposite side is a knitting start. Further, "rubbing from the knitting start direction toward the knitting end direction" means rubbing from the knitting start direction toward the knitting end direction in the wale direction (warp direction).
In the knitted fabric of the present embodiment, the difference between the dynamic friction coefficient when the needle loop surface and the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric are rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction and the dynamic friction coefficient when the needle loop surface and the sinker loop surface are rubbed from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction is 0.13 or less, preferably 0.12 or less, and more preferably 0.11 or less. When the difference between the coefficient of dynamic friction between the needle loop surface and the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric when the knitted fabric is rubbed in the knitting direction from the knitting start direction and the knitting end direction and the coefficient of dynamic friction when the knitted fabric is rubbed in the knitting start direction from the knitting end direction exceeds 0.13, the smoothness of the sinker loop surface is poor, the adhesion of the printing of the sinker loop surface is poor, and the peel resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape is also reduced.
In the knitted fabric of the present embodiment, the ratio of the dynamic friction coefficient of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric to the dynamic friction coefficient of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric when the knitted fabric is rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction (dynamic friction coefficient of the needle loop surface/dynamic friction coefficient of the sinker loop surface) is 0.70 to 1.00, preferably 0.80 to 1.00, and more preferably 0.90 to 1.00. If the ratio of the dynamic friction coefficient of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric to the dynamic friction coefficient of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric at the time of rubbing the knitted fabric from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction is less than 0.70, the smoothness of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is poor, and therefore the adhesion of the printing of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is poor, and the peel resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape is also reduced in some cases. In the stitch structure, the friction of the sinker loop of the knitted fabric at the time of the friction from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction of the knitted fabric is not superior to the friction of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric at the time of the friction from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction of the knitted fabric, and therefore the ratio of the kinetic friction coefficient of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric at the time of the friction from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction of the knitted fabric to the kinetic friction coefficient of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric does not substantially exceed 1.00.
From the viewpoint of adhesion of printing and peeling resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape, the standard deviation of the friction coefficient when the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric of the present embodiment is rubbed from the knitting-start direction toward the knitting-end direction is preferably 0.500 or less, more preferably 0.400 or less, still more preferably 0.300 or less, and particularly preferably 0.200 or less.
In the knitted fabric of the present embodiment, in the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric, from the viewpoint of adhesion of printing and peeling resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape, the difference between the standard deviation of the friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting-start direction to the knitting-end direction and the standard deviation of the friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting-end direction to the knitting-start direction is preferably 0.20 or less, more preferably 0.18 or less, and still more preferably 0.15 or less.
In the knitted fabric of the present embodiment, in terms of adhesion of printing and peeling resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape, the difference between the standard deviation of the friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting-starting direction to the knitting-ending direction and the standard deviation of the friction coefficient when rubbing from the knitting-ending direction to the knitting-starting direction is preferably 0.025 or less, more preferably 0.020 or less, and still more preferably 0.017 or less on the needle-loop side of the knitted fabric.
Single layer knitted fabrics, which are usually formed of plain stitches, differ in structure on the surface and back of the knitted fabric, having a needle loop side and a sinker loop side. As illustrated in fig. 1, since the stitches are arranged in a V-shape on the needle loop surface, the friction in the longitudinal direction and the lateral direction of the knitted fabric is small, while the stitches are arranged in a semicircular shape on the sinker loop surface, and the friction in the longitudinal direction of the knitted fabric is particularly high. Further, the friction of the knitted fabric from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction is larger than the friction of the knitted fabric from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction on the needle loop surface and the sinker loop surface, and the knitted fabric has directionality and uneven smoothness, and particularly the difference in friction of the sinker loop surface is large depending on the direction. This is because the directionality appears in the overlapping manner of the yarns by the knitting. Therefore, making the friction of the settling arcs uniform has a great influence on the ease of adhesion of printing and the peel resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape.
The frictional characteristics of the knitted fabric of the present embodiment, which exhibited smoothness, were measured using a Tribo Master Type of a static/dynamic friction measuring machine manufactured by Trinity-Lab inc: TL201 Ts. The conditions in the measurement were as follows: unpatterned contact surface 11mm × 15mm, measurement load: 3.75g, a rubbing speed of 30 mm/sec, and a rubbing distance of 100mm were reciprocated 3 times. The rubbing was started from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction, and after 100mm of rubbing, the rubbing direction was reversed and the rubbing was started from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction. This operation was repeated 3 times, and the dynamic friction coefficient and the standard deviation of the friction coefficient from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction, and the dynamic friction coefficient and the standard deviation of the friction coefficient from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction were calculated for each time, and the average value calculated 3 times was used.
In the knitted fabric of the present embodiment, the ratio of the water diffusion area of the needle loop surface to the water diffusion area of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is preferably 1.00 to 1.10, more preferably 1.00 to 1.08, further preferably 1.00 to 1.06, and further preferably 1.00 to 1.04. Since the moisture absorbed by the surface of the knitted fabric tends to spread on the surface of the knitted fabric when the surface of the knitted fabric is smooth, the water diffusion area is considered to be one of the functions of indicating smoothness. When the ratio of the water diffusion area of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric to the water diffusion area of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric (needle loop surface/sinker loop surface) exceeds 1.10, the water diffusivity of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is inferior to the water diffusivity of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric, and the smoothness is poor. In the stitch structure, the sinking curves of the knitted fabric are not superior to the smoothness of the needle-loop side of the knitted fabric, and therefore the water diffusibility of the sinking curves of the knitted fabric is not superior to that of the needle-loop side of the knitted fabric, and the ratio of the water diffusibility area of the needle-loop side of the knitted fabric to that of the sinking curves of the knitted fabric is not substantially lower than 1.00.
In the knitted fabric of the present embodiment, the ratio of the contact cold feeling value of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric to the contact cold feeling value of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is preferably 1.00 to 1.30, more preferably 1.00 to 1.25, and further preferably 1.00 to 1.20. Since the contact area increases and the contact cold feeling increases when the surface of the knitted fabric is smooth, the contact cold feeling value is considered as one of the functions of indicating smoothness. Regarding the smoothness of the knitted fabric, when the ratio of the contact cold feeling value of the needle loop surface of the knitted fabric to the contact cold feeling value of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric exceeds 1.30, the smoothness of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is deteriorated, and therefore the adhesion of the printing of the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is deteriorated, and the peel resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape is also deteriorated in some cases. In the stitch structure, the sinking curves of the knitted fabric are not more smooth than the needle curves of the knitted fabric, so the contact cold feeling value of the sinking curves of the knitted fabric is not better than the contact cold feeling value of the needle curves of the knitted fabric, and the ratio of the contact cold feeling value of the needle curves of the knitted fabric to the contact cold feeling value of the sinking curves of the knitted fabric is not lower than 1.00 basically.
The knitted fabric of the present embodiment preferably has a number of courses of 70 to 150 per inch (2.54cm), a number of wales of 50 to 80 per inch, and a density index of 4000 to 12000. The number of courses of the knitted fabric is more preferably 80 to 130/inch, and still more preferably 90 to 110/inch. The number of wales of the knitted fabric is more preferably 55 to 70 per inch, and still more preferably 55 to 65 per inch. The density index is more preferably 4200 to 10000, still more preferably 4400 to 8000, and particularly preferably 4600 to 6000. The density index is calculated from the following formula (1) and is a numerical value that serves as an index of the dense feeling.
Density index (number of courses/inch) of knitted fabric x number of wales/inch of knitted fabric) (1)
When the density index is high, the dense feeling is high. When the knitted fabric has a stitch width of 70 stitches or more per inch, a stitch wale of 50 stitches or more per inch, and a density index of 4000 or more, the compactness required for smoothness is excellent, adhesion of printing is good, and the peel resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape is also easily improved. When the number of courses of the knitted fabric is 150/inch or less, the number of wales is 80/inch or less, and the density index is 12000 or less, it is not necessary to use a knitting machine with a high gauge or use a fine-denier yarn, and the obtained knitted fabric is not too thin, has sufficiently high breaking strength, and does not pose a problem in durability as a garment.
The fineness of the non-elastic fiber used in the knitted fabric of the present embodiment is preferably in the range of 15 to 200detx, more preferably 20 to 170dtex, still more preferably 30 to 120dtex, and particularly preferably 40 to 100 dtex. If the fineness of the non-elastic fiber is less than 15dtex, the breaking strength when the non-elastic fiber is formed into a knitted fabric becomes too low, and there is a problem in durability as a garment. On the other hand, when the fineness of the non-elastic fibers exceeds 200dtex, a low-gauge knitting machine is required, and an appropriate density index cannot be obtained, and thus a desired effect cannot be obtained.
The fineness of the elastic fiber used in the knitted fabric of the present embodiment is preferably in the range of 15 to 80dtex, more preferably 20 to 60dtex, and further preferably 30 to 50 dtex. When the fineness of the elastic fiber is less than 15detx, the elongation and recovery properties may not be necessarily obtained. On the other hand, when the fineness of the elastic fiber exceeds 80dtex, the weight per unit area becomes large, and the elastic fiber may become too heavy as a garment.
The knitted fabric of the embodiment preferably has a weight per unit area of 50 to 300g/m2More preferably 80 to 200g/m2More preferably 100 to 170g/m2. The weight per unit area is less than 50g/m2Sometimes, the feeling of clearness or breaking strengthAnd the deterioration is made. On the other hand, the weight per unit area exceeds 300g/m2In this case, the garment is too heavy to be worn, and may hinder the operation.
The longest yarn length among the inelastic fibers used in the knitted fabric of the present embodiment is preferably 160 to 240mm/100W (wale), more preferably 170 to 220mm/100W, and still more preferably 190 to 210 mm/100W. The yarn length per 100W was determined as follows. Both ends of 100 knitted loop portions continuous in the lateral direction (course direction) of the knitted fabric were marked, the yarn at the marked position was pulled out from the knitted fabric, and a load of fineness × 0.1g was applied to measure the length.
When the longest yarn length among the used non-elastic fibers is 160mm/100W or more, the stretchability of the knitted fabric becomes sufficient, and the fabric has a soft texture and is easily made sufficiently usable as apparel. On the other hand, when the longest yarn length among the used non-elastic fibers is 240mm/100W or less, the non-elastic fibers are not exposed on the surface of the knitted fabric, and the smoothness is easily excellent. In order to make the knitted fabric dense and to set the yarn length within the above range, it is necessary to adjust the density and the yarn length by greatly contracting in the post-processing such as dyeing.
In order to provide a soft garment without impairing the stretchability of the elastic fiber, the non-elastic fiber preferably has a single yarn fineness of 0.3 to 3.0dtex, more preferably 0.5 to 25dtex, and still more preferably 0.8 to 2.3 dtex.
The draft ratio of the elastic fibers in the knitted fabric of the present embodiment is not particularly limited as long as the knitted fabric has appropriate stretchability and does not break during knitting, and is usually in the range of 2.5 to 3.5 times, for example.
The knitted fabric of the present embodiment can be knitted by a flat knitting machine or a single-sided circular knitting machine, and is not particularly limited as long as the weight per unit area and the texture according to the object are obtained. The needle pitch of the knitting machine is also not particularly limited, but the knitting machine is preferably one in which the needle pitch is arbitrarily selected from 18 to 50, more preferably 24 to 40, and still more preferably 28 to 36, depending on the application and the thickness of the fiber to be used.
The knitted fabric of the present embodiment may be subjected to a dyeing step such as presetting, dyeing, and final setting after knitting. The processing method may be performed according to a usual processing method of an elastic fiber blended knitted fabric, but it is preferable to adjust the temperature, tenter ratio, and press-in ratio in the warp direction at the time of setting at appropriate timing in order to achieve desired smoothness. As the secondary processing in the dyeing stage, stain-proofing processing, antibacterial processing, deodorizing processing, water absorbing processing, moisture absorbing processing, ultraviolet absorbing processing, weight loss processing, and the like may be appropriately applied according to the characteristics finally required, and as the post-processing, calendering processing, embossing processing, drape processing, fuzzing processing, opal (opal) processing, softening processing using a silicon-based softener, and the like may be appropriately applied according to the characteristics finally required. In particular, the water absorption process is effective for reducing tackiness when worn as clothes.
In the printing process of the knitted fabric of the present embodiment, the mode and method are not limited, and any of a manual printing method, a roll printing method, a screen printing method, a gravure printing method, a transfer printing method, an inkjet printing method, and the like may be used, and it is preferable to select an appropriate method according to a target pattern, a printing material, and the like. As the coloring component, an organic or inorganic pigment (including metal powder) may be used, and a disperse dye, an acid dye, a cationic dye, a reactive dye, a direct dye, a fluorescent dye, or the like may be used alone or in combination depending on a printing material.
When the knitted fabric of the present embodiment is made into a garment, the knitted fabric can be attached to the knitted fabric with a pressure-sensitive adhesive tape without sewing. The pressure-bonding tape to be used is not particularly limited, and a pressure-bonding tape suitable for the purpose of use may be suitably used.
The knitted fabric of the present embodiment can be used for applications such as underwear, sportswear, outerwear, and swimwear.
In the knitted fabric of the present embodiment, for example, when the sinker loop of the knitted fabric is used on the outside air side of the garment, the needle loop surface is on the skin side, and the knitted fabric has a lower friction coefficient and a higher contact cold feeling value than a garment in which the sinker loop of the knitted fabric is normally used on the skin side, and therefore smoothness and a cold feeling are more likely to be felt.
Examples
The present invention will be specifically described below with reference to examples and comparative examples.
Each evaluation in examples and comparative examples was performed as follows.
(1) Coefficient of dynamic friction and standard deviation of coefficient of friction
The static/dynamic Friction determinator Tribo Master Type manufactured by Trinity-Lab inc.: TL201 Ts. The conditions in the measurement were as follows: unpatterned contact surface 11mm × 15mm, measurement load: 3.75g, a rubbing speed of 30 mm/sec, and a rubbing distance of 100mm were reciprocated 3 times. The rubbing was started from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction, and after 100mm of rubbing, the rubbing direction was reversed and the rubbing was performed from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction. This operation was repeated 3 times, and the dynamic friction coefficient and the standard deviation of the friction coefficient from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction, and the dynamic friction coefficient and the standard deviation of the friction coefficient from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction were calculated for each time, and the average value calculated 3 times was used.
(2) Area of water diffusion
Using a micropipette, 0.1cc of water or a staining solution obtained by dissolving 0.05g of a reaction dye "Sumifix Brilliant Blue" manufactured by Sumitomo science Co., Ltd in 100g of water was placed on an acrylic plate in a circular spot shape in an atmosphere at 20 ℃ and 65% RH. On this, a 10cm × 10cm sample collected from a fabric conditioned for 24 hours in the same environment was gently placed on the dyeing solution with the measurement surface facing downward, and the area of the sample after 5 minutes after the diffusion of the dyeing solution was measured. The diffusion area is determined as follows: assuming that the diffusion is elliptical, the diffusion length in the vertical direction and the diffusion length in the horizontal direction are determined as (pi/4) × (vertical length × horizontal length).
(3) Cold contact value
For the knitted fabric cut into 8cm × 8cm and conditioned at 20 ℃ × 65% environment, the cooling base was set to the range of 20 ℃ + -0.5 ℃ by using KATO TECH CO., manufactured by LTD., KES-F7-IIThe knitted fabric is placed on the cooling base such that the skin of the knitted fabric faces upward. Then, the maximum amount of heat transfer (W/cm) when the hot plate of the apparatus heated to +10 ℃ which is the temperature of the cooling base was placed on the skin surface of the knitted fabric was measured2)。
(4) Adhesion condition of printing
The state of the printed pattern obtained by performing the washing treatment according to JIS-L-1096-G100 times on the knitted fabric produced and printing the pattern of dots on the sinking curve was visually evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria. Practically, no problem is found in the following criteria, namely 3 or more:
5: there was no cracking or peeling of the print at all.
4: over 0% and 20% or less of the total amount of the ink had cracks or peeling of the print.
3: over 20% and 40% or less of the total amount of the ink had cracks or peeling of the print.
2: over 40% and 60% or less of the total amount of the ink had cracks or peeling of the print.
1: over 60% of the total was cracked or peeled off of the print.
(5) Peeling resistance of pressure-sensitive adhesive tape
2 samples having a width of 50mm × a length of 150mm were collected from the knitted fabric produced, and pressure-sensitive adhesive tapes having a width of 10mm were attached to the sinker loop surface of the collected 1 sample and the needle loop surface of the other sample at positions 10mm from the ends of the samples. The test piece was subjected to a washing treatment according to JIS-L-1096-G100 times, and the test piece was mounted on a tensile testing machine so as to hold the entire width of the test piece, and a load of 14.7N was applied to measure the amount of peeling after holding for 1 minute. Practically, no problem is found in the following criteria, namely 3 or more:
5: the amount of peeling was 0 mm.
4: the amount of peeling was more than 0mm and 2mm or less.
3: the amount of peeling was more than 2mm and 4mm or less.
2: the amount of peeling was more than 4mm and 6mm or less.
1: the amount of peeling exceeded 6 mm.
[ example 1]
A36-needle single-face circular knitting machine was used, and 22dtex (A) polyurethane elastic fibers made of a prepolymer obtained by using poly-1, 4-butanediol were used as elastic fibers, and 80dtex65f blended yarn (B) and 78dtex68f (C) nylon filament false-twisted yarn (C) blended by composite false twisting of nylon filament 22dtex20f and copper ammonia filament 56dtex45f were used as non-elastic fibers, and the yarn ratio in the wale direction of the knitted fabric was set to 1: 1 and a knitted loop formed by doubling the elastic fiber (a) and the inelastic fiber (B) and a knitted loop formed by doubling the elastic fiber (a) and the inelastic fiber (C) were alternately arranged at a ratio of 1, to obtain a blank of a plain knitted fabric in which the yarn length of the false-twist yarn (C) was 10mm longer than that of the blended yarn (B). The fabric was processed under the same predetermined conditions, dyeing conditions and finishing conditions as those for the usual processing of a knitted fabric with polyurethane elastic fiber to obtain a weight per unit area of 130g/m2A knitted fabric having a thickness of 0.43mm, a wale of 81 stitches per inch, and wales of 56 stitches per inch. The results are shown in table 1 below. The resulting knitted fabric was excellent in adhesion of printing and also excellent in peeling resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape.
[ example 2]
A blank of a plain jersey knitted fabric having the same arrangement of elastic fibers and inelastic fibers was obtained by using the same circular knitting machine, elastic fibers, and inelastic fibers as in example 1, except that the yarn length of the inelastic fibers in example 1 was changed. The gray fabric was adjusted to a weight of 128g/m per unit area through the same dyeing process as in example 12A thickness of 0.41mm, a course of 90 stitches per inch, and wales of 54 stitches per inch, to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in table 1 below. The resulting knitted fabric was excellent in adhesion of printing and also excellent in peeling resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape.
[ example 3]
The same circular knitting machine, elastic fiber and inelastic fiber as in example 1 were used except that the same raw fabric as the yarn length of the yarn mixture (B) of inelastic fibers and the false twist yarn (C) as in example 1 was used, and the arrangement of the elastic fiber and inelastic fiber was also the sameThe blank of the bare plain knitted fabric of (1). The gray fabric was adjusted to a weight of 132g/m per unit area through the same dyeing process as in example 12A thickness of 0.46mm, a course of 75 stitches per inch, and wales of 55 stitches per inch, to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in table 1 below. The resulting knitted fabric was excellent in adhesion of printing and also excellent in peeling resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape.
[ example 4]
A blank of a plain jersey knitted fabric having the same arrangement of elastic fibers and inelastic fibers was obtained by using the same circular knitting machine, elastic fibers, and inelastic fibers as in example 1, except that the yarn length of the inelastic fibers in example 1 was changed. The gray fabric was adjusted to a basis weight of 165g/m through the same dyeing process as in example 12A thickness of 0.53mm, a course of 96 stitches per inch, and wales of 56 stitches per inch, to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in table 1 below. The resulting knitted fabric was excellent in adhesion of printing and also excellent in peeling resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape.
[ example 5]
In the inelastic fiber of example 1, a plain knitted fabric blank was obtained in which the arrangement of the elastic fiber and the inelastic fiber was the same, using the same circular knitting machine and the elastic fiber as in example 1, except that the inelastic fiber of example 1 was changed in the yarn length by using the blended yarn (B) of 67dtex65f obtained by composite false twist blending of the nylon filament 22dtex20f and the copper ammonia filament 44dtex45f and the nylon filament false twist processed yarn 56dtex48f (C). The gray fabric was adjusted to a basis weight of 105g/m through the same dyeing process as in example 12A thickness of 0.48mm, a course of 85 stitches per inch, and wales of 50 stitches per inch, to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in table 1 below. The resulting knitted fabric was excellent in adhesion of printing and also excellent in peeling resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape.
[ example 6]
A plain knitted fabric blank knitted by doubling the elastic fiber (a) and the blended yarn (B) was obtained by using only the blended yarn (B) of the inelastic fiber and the elastic fiber (a) used in example 5. The gray fabric was subjected to the same dyeing procedure as in example 1The order is adjusted to 120g/m of unit area weight2A thickness of 0.42mm, a wale of 92/inch, and wales of 57/inch, to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in table 1 below. The resulting knitted fabric was excellent in adhesion of printing and also excellent in peeling resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape.
Comparative example 1
A blank of a plain jersey knitted fabric having the same arrangement of elastic fibers and inelastic fibers was obtained by using the same elastic fibers and inelastic fibers as in example 1, except that the yarn length of the inelastic fibers and the circular knitting machine used in example 1 was changed. The gray fabric was adjusted to a basis weight of 134g/m through the same dyeing process as in example 12A thickness of 0.49mm, a wale of 91 pieces/inch, and wales of 45 pieces/inch, to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in table 1 below. The resulting knitted fabric had insufficient smoothness of the sedimentation curve and had problems in terms of adhesion of the printing and peeling resistance of the pressure-bonding tape in practical use.
Comparative example 2
Using a 32-needle single-face circular knitting machine, the polyurethane elastic fiber 22dtex (a) made of prepolymer obtained by using poly 1, 4-butanediol as elastic fiber, the copper ammonia filament yarn (B) and the polyester filament false-twist processed yarn 56dtex72f (C) as non-elastic fiber, the non-elastic fiber (C) is arranged on the needle arc surface of the knitted fabric, and the warp direction of the knitted fabric is set to be 1: 1 in the ratio of the non-elastic fiber (B) to the non-elastic fiber (C), and an elastic fiber (A) in the middle layer of the knitted fabric. The gray fabric was adjusted to a basis weight of 135g/m through the same dyeing process as in example 12A thickness of 0.46mm, a course of 77 stitches per inch, and wales of 50 stitches per inch, to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in table 1 below. The resulting knitted fabric had insufficient smoothness of the sinking curve and had problems in terms of adhesion of the printing and peeling resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape in practical use.
Comparative example 3
Except that the composition used in example 1 was changedUsing the same elastic fibers and inelastic fibers as in example 1 except for the yarn length of the circular knitting machine and inelastic fibers, a blank of a plain jersey knitted fabric was obtained with the same arrangement of elastic fibers and inelastic fibers. The gray fabric was adjusted to a basis weight of 118g/m through the same dyeing process as in example 12A thickness of 0.43mm, a course of 87 stitches per inch, and wales of 40 stitches per inch, to obtain a knitted fabric. The results are shown in table 1 below. The resulting knitted fabric had insufficient smoothness of the sinking curve and had problems in terms of adhesion of the printing and peeling resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape in practical use.
[ Table 1]
[ Table 2]
Industrial applicability
The single-layer knitted fabric of the present invention has improved smoothness of the sinker loop surface and a small difference in coefficient of dynamic friction between the sinker loop surface and the needle loop surface, and therefore, printing is easily applied to both the front and back surfaces of the knitted fabric, thereby improving the convenience of the knitted fabric and also improving the peel resistance of the pressure-sensitive adhesive tape. Therefore, the single-layer knitted fabric of the present invention can be suitably used for clothes such as sportswear, and underwear, which have improved designability.
Claims (10)
1. A knitted fabric is a single-layer knitted fabric of a plain stitch formed of inelastic fibers and elastic fibers, wherein the sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric has a coefficient of dynamic friction when rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction of 0.500 or less, the difference between the coefficient of dynamic friction when rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction and the coefficient of dynamic friction when rubbed from the knitting end direction to the knitting start direction of the needle loop surface and the sinker loop surface is 0.13 or less, and the ratio of the coefficient of dynamic friction of the needle loop surface when rubbed from the knitting start direction to the knitting end direction to the coefficient of dynamic friction of the sinker loop surface is 0.70 to 1.00.
2. The knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein a standard deviation of a friction coefficient when the sinker loop is rubbed from a knitting start direction toward a knitting end direction is 0.500 or less, and a difference between the standard deviation of the friction coefficient when the sinker loop is rubbed from the knitting start direction toward the knitting end direction and the standard deviation of the friction coefficient when the sinker loop is rubbed from the knitting end direction toward the knitting start direction is 0.200 or less.
3. The knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein a difference between a standard deviation of a friction coefficient when the needle loop surface is rubbed from a knitting start direction toward a knitting end direction and a standard deviation of a friction coefficient when the needle loop surface is rubbed from the knitting end direction toward the knitting start direction is 0.025 or less.
4. The knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein a ratio of a water diffusion area of a needle loop surface to a water diffusion area of a sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is 1.00 to 1.10.
5. The knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein a ratio of a contact cold feeling value of a needle loop surface to a contact cold feeling value of a sinker loop surface of the knitted fabric is 1.00 to 1.30.
6. The knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the number of courses is 70 to 150 per inch and the number of wales is 50 to 80 per inch, and the density index is 4000 to 12000.
7. The knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the yarn length of the longest inelastic fiber among the inelastic fibers contained in the knitted fabric is 160 to 240mm/100 w.
8. A garment comprising the knitted fabric of any one of claims 1 to 7.
9. The garment according to claim 8, wherein the needle-knitted loop surface of the knitted fabric is disposed on the skin side.
10. A method for producing a knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein the non-elastic fiber contains: the yarn comprising the cellulose-based filament yarn and the yarn comprising the synthetic fiber are alternately arranged in the wale direction, and the yarn length of the yarn comprising the synthetic fiber is 5mm to 20mm longer than the yarn length of the yarn comprising the cellulose-based filament yarn in the raw fabric.
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| PCT/JP2020/019318 WO2020230859A1 (en) | 2019-05-14 | 2020-05-14 | Knitted fabric and garment |
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| JP7065258B2 (en) | 2022-05-11 |
| TW202104699A (en) | 2021-02-01 |
| KR20210118913A (en) | 2021-10-01 |
| WO2020230859A1 (en) | 2020-11-19 |
| JPWO2020230859A1 (en) | 2021-10-28 |
| CN113853459B (en) | 2023-05-26 |
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