WO2020202195A1 - Procédé de fabrication de tissu denim compatible avec de la lumière laser - Google Patents

Procédé de fabrication de tissu denim compatible avec de la lumière laser Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020202195A1
WO2020202195A1 PCT/IN2020/050297 IN2020050297W WO2020202195A1 WO 2020202195 A1 WO2020202195 A1 WO 2020202195A1 IN 2020050297 W IN2020050297 W IN 2020050297W WO 2020202195 A1 WO2020202195 A1 WO 2020202195A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
fabric
yarn
dye
yarns
dyed
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/IN2020/050297
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Debasish Halder
Dharmesh Shah
Rahul Roy
Original Assignee
Arvind Limited
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Arvind Limited filed Critical Arvind Limited
Publication of WO2020202195A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020202195A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/15—Locally discharging the dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02—YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02G—CRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00—Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/26—Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre with characteristics dependent on the amount or direction of twist
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06B—TREATING TEXTILE MATERIALS USING LIQUIDS, GASES OR VAPOURS
    • D06B11/00—Treatment of selected parts of textile materials, e.g. partial dyeing
    • D06B11/0093—Treatments carried out during or after a regular application of treating materials, in order to get differentiated effects on the textile material
    • D06B11/0096—Treatments carried out during or after a regular application of treating materials, in order to get differentiated effects on the textile material to get a faded look
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P5/00—Other features in dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form
    • D06P5/20—Physical treatments affecting dyeing, e.g. ultrasonic or electric
    • D06P5/2005—Treatments with alpha, beta, gamma or other rays, e.g. stimulated rays
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/34—Material containing ester groups
    • D06P3/52—Polyesters
    • D06P3/523—Polyesters using vat or sulfur dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/58—Material containing hydroxyl groups
    • D06P3/60—Natural or regenerated cellulose
    • D06P3/6025—Natural or regenerated cellulose using vat or sulfur dyes
    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D06—TREATMENT OF TEXTILES OR THE LIKE; LAUNDERING; FLEXIBLE MATERIALS NOT OTHERWISE PROVIDED FOR
    • D06P—DYEING OR PRINTING TEXTILES; DYEING LEATHER, FURS OR SOLID MACROMOLECULAR SUBSTANCES IN ANY FORM
    • D06P3/00—Special processes of dyeing or printing textiles, or dyeing leather, furs, or solid macromolecular substances in any form, classified according to the material treated
    • D06P3/82—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres
    • D06P3/8204—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature
    • D06P3/8223—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and ester groups
    • D06P3/8228—Textiles which contain different kinds of fibres fibres of different chemical nature mixtures of fibres containing hydroxyl and ester groups using one kind of dye

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to method of manufacturing laser friendly denim fabrics.
  • Denim is popular apparel for many generations. Over a period of time, Denim has undergone various changes such as non-stretch to stretch, comfort stretch, high stretch, skinny denim, performance denim, ripped denim etc.
  • the denim garments include jeans, jacket, shirt, dresses etc.
  • the washing processes are categorised in two categories, i.e., a dry washing process and a wet washing process.
  • the dry processes include micro sanding, brushing, fraying, and making whiskers and chevrons on denim garments.
  • the wet processes include different washes like rinse, enzyme, stone and bleach.
  • denim garments can be subjected to laser treatments for removing dye from predefined area to achieve desired aesthetic look of garment instead of using water and chemicals. Due to the laser treatment, desired results can be obtained in short time span and reproducibility of the same pattern can be achieved.
  • the laser finishing process is a highly controlled system, wherein laser intensity and pixel density along with laser exposure time are controlled. However, there is no control on temperature generated due to the laser rays. The intensity of laser rays is mainly based on fiber contents of the fabric to be treated and also on desired aesthetic look. Thus, the portion of the fabric may get melt due to exposure to the laser rays.
  • the exposed area of the synthetic fibers melts or burn and also gets stiffen causing defect in fabric/garment. Further, the fabric does not show a good whisker or chevron effect thereon when exposed to laser rays.
  • the present invention envisages a method of manufacturing a laser friendly denim fabric.
  • the method comprises following steps. Initially, a yarn is made in a ring spinning machine to have a twist multiplier ranging from 4.5 to 6. Further, the yarn is passed through a dye solution at a speed ranging from 22 meter/minute to 35 meter/minute to obtain a dyed yarn.
  • a fabric is woven using weft yams and a plurality of the dyed yarns as a warp yams on a weaving machine.
  • the present invention further envisages a yarn dyed with a dye.
  • the dye is penetrated from 16% to 20% of a cross-sectional area of the yarn.
  • a fabric is woven using the yams as warp yams kept on a surface of the fabric exposed to laser rays.
  • Figure 1 shows a cross sectional view of a surface dyed yam.
  • references in the specification to“an embodiment” mean that a particular feature, structure, characteristic, or function described in connection with the embodiment is included in at least one embodiment of the invention.
  • the appearances of the phrase “in an embodiment” in various places in the specification are not necessarily all referring to the same embodiment.
  • the present invention envisages a method of manufacturing a laser friendly denim fabric. The method is elaborated in subsequent paragraphs.
  • the first step of the laser-friendly fabric manufacturing process includes manufacturing of yam, preferably a warp yarn.
  • the yarn may be made from natural fibers and man-made fibers including cotton and cotton-synthetic fibres blends and the like.
  • the yarn morphology is changed by changing various process parameters and spinning technique.
  • the yams are spun by ring spinning machine.
  • yam twist flows from surface to the core of the yarn.
  • the method includes the step of making a yarn in a ring spinning machine to have a twist multiplier ranging from 4.5 to 6. More specifically, the yam multiplier is increased as compared to yarn twist multiplier in conventional yam manufacturing processes. The increase in the yam twist multiplier results in compact structure of the yam. Thus, during dyeing, the dye particles cannot get penetrated deep into the yam.
  • the yam is spun from two rovings in a ring spinning machine.
  • the method further includes the step of dyeing the yarn.
  • the yarn is dyed with indigo dye or sulphur dye or combination thereof in such a way that the dye does not penetrate inside the core of the yam.
  • changes may be carried out in the condition of dyeing.
  • dyeing of yarn with a dye is carried out in alkaline medium.
  • the pH during dyeing is maintained more towards neutral to ensure surface dyeing. More specifically, the pH value of the alkaline medium is kept between 11 to 11.5.
  • the yarn is passed through the dye solution at a speed ranging from 22 meter/minute to 35 meter/minute to obtain a dyed yam.
  • this speed of the yam is 10% more than the speed of passing the yam in conventional dyeing processes.
  • the increase in the speed of passing the yam through the dyeing solution reduces the contact time between the yarn and the dyeing solution. Thus, the dye particles get lesser time to penetrate into the yarn.
  • the speed of passing the yam is adjusted so as to prevent the dye particles to enter beyond 20% of a cross-sectional area of the yarn.
  • the dye particles enter the yarn from circumference of the yarn and travel towards the core of the yam. Reduction in contact time between the yarn and the dye solution and increased twist multiplier of the yarn makes it difficult for the dye particles to enter deep into the core of the yarn.
  • Figure 1 shows a cross sectional view of the surface dyed yarn (100). The dye does not penetrate too deep into the core of the yarn.
  • the dyed yarn as shown in the Figure 1 has un-dyed core (120) and surface dyed (110) with indigo dye or sulphur dye or combination thereof.
  • the method includes the step of sizing.
  • the yarns are sized with water soluble size recipe which does not hinder the action of laser ray.
  • the water-soluble size of the yarns provides easement during the laser treatment of the fabric.
  • the method includes the step of weaving a fabric with weft yarns and a plurality of the dyed yarns as warp yams on a weaving machine.
  • weft yarns include yams made of natural fibers or a blend of natural and synthetic fibers, stretch yams, or 100% synthetic filaments or combination thereof.
  • the fabric is woven in denim weaves such as twill, satin/sateen and dobby and the like.
  • the method includes a sub-step of weaving the warp yarns by keeping them on a surface of the fabric exposed to laser rays. More specifically, the fabric is woven in such a way that warp yams remain on surface of the fabric exposed to laser rays. This helps to remove dye on the surface by using laser ray. Thereafter, the woven fabric undergoes finishing process such as singing, desizing, and a final finishing.
  • the woven fabric thus manufactured is laser friendly and allows to provide garment with reproducible aesthetic look.
  • the garments made from the woven fabric may be treated with laser.
  • the laser removes dyes from pre-defmed area of the garment and gives desired garment finishing effect. As the dye is not penetrated deep into the yarns of the fabric, the laser treatment does not cause any damage to the fabric when exposed. Typically, if the fabric has polyester content, the polyester may melt when exposed to laser rays for longer duration of time.
  • invented fabric is laser friendly. The dye is not penetrated deeply into the yams. Thus, even if the fabric has polyester content, the risk of melting polyester in the fabric is reduced.
  • Laser treatment is typically useful for fabric which is dyed with dyes having a wash down characteristic. Indigo and sulphur dyes are having wash-down effect which means said dyes can be easily removed after each wash. Laser sensitivity rating of the fabric is given based on response of the fabric to laser.
  • the present invention further discloses a yam and a fabric made of the yams.
  • the yarn is made of natural fibers and man-made fibers including cotton and cotton- synthetic fibres blends.
  • the yam is dyed with Indigo or sulphur dyes or combination thereof, wherein the Indigo or sulphur dye is penetrated from 16% to 20% of a cross-sectional area of the yarn.
  • the yarn is dyed as per the method described in foregoing paragraphs. As the dye is not penetrated deep into the yarn, it can be easily removed by exposing to laser rays to achieve aesthetic effects such as making whiskers and chevrons on denim fabrics.
  • the fabric is woven using the plurality of aforementioned yarns. During weaving the fabric, the dyed yams are retained as warp yams.
  • LSF is a well known grading system for determining the effect of the laser treatment on the fabric. It is well known that higher LSF grade depicts better laser treatment effect on the fabric. With reference to Table 1, a fabric, which is not manufactured according to the process steps of the present invention, shows LSF of grade 6 when exposed to laser treatment. On the other hand, a fabric, which is manufactured according to the process steps of the present invention, shows LSF of grade 9, thereby showing a better laser treatment effect.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Coloring (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention concerne des procédés de fabrication de tissu denim compatible avec de la lumière laser. Le procédé fournit un tissu dans lequel des particules de colorant n'ont pas pénétré au-delà de 20 % de la surface en section transversale des fils. Le procédé comprend les étapes suivantes. Initialement, un fil est réalisé dans un métier à filer à anneaux avec un coefficient de torsion allant de 4,5 à 6. Ensuite, le fil est amené à passer dans une solution de colorant à une vitesse allant de 22 mètres/minute à 35 mètres/minute pour obtenir un fil teint. Un tissu est tissé à l'aide de fils de trame et d'une pluralité de fils teints en tant que fils de chaîne sur un métier à tisser.
PCT/IN2020/050297 2019-03-29 2020-03-28 Procédé de fabrication de tissu denim compatible avec de la lumière laser WO2020202195A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
IN201921012353 2019-03-29
IN201921012353 2019-03-29

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2020202195A1 true WO2020202195A1 (fr) 2020-10-08

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP4006228A1 (fr) 2020-11-27 2022-06-01 Jeanología, S.L. Procédé de marquage de textiles au laser

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20140150187A1 (en) * 2011-06-30 2014-06-05 Celanese International Corporation Preparation of indigo-dyed cotton denim fabrics and garments
US20180160756A1 (en) * 2016-12-13 2018-06-14 Levi Strauss & Co. Fabric with Enhanced Response Characteristics for Laser Finishing

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20140150187A1 (en) * 2011-06-30 2014-06-05 Celanese International Corporation Preparation of indigo-dyed cotton denim fabrics and garments
US20180160756A1 (en) * 2016-12-13 2018-06-14 Levi Strauss & Co. Fabric with Enhanced Response Characteristics for Laser Finishing

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
HIRAL D BARODIA, DR ASHOK KHARE: "Some variations in Siro spinning | Spinning & Weaving", THE INDIAN TEXTILE JOURNAL, 5 November 2012 (2012-11-05), pages 1 - 5, XP055746808, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:https://indiantextilejournal.com/articles/FAdetails.asp?id=4489> *

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP4006228A1 (fr) 2020-11-27 2022-06-01 Jeanología, S.L. Procédé de marquage de textiles au laser

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