WO2020104129A1 - Composition de nettoyage cosmétique - Google Patents

Composition de nettoyage cosmétique

Info

Publication number
WO2020104129A1
WO2020104129A1 PCT/EP2019/078634 EP2019078634W WO2020104129A1 WO 2020104129 A1 WO2020104129 A1 WO 2020104129A1 EP 2019078634 W EP2019078634 W EP 2019078634W WO 2020104129 A1 WO2020104129 A1 WO 2020104129A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
weight
cleansing composition
composition according
surfactant
relation
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2019/078634
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Mingjia LI
Chaochun Dong
Zhaoxia Bao
Ji Feng
Zebao JIA
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf Ag filed Critical Beiersdorf Ag
Publication of WO2020104129A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020104129A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5428—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge amphoteric or zwitterionic

Definitions

  • the present invention belongs to the cosmetic field, and it is directed to a mild and clear cosmetic cleansing composition, especially a shampoo composition, containing a surfactant system, comprising at least one amino acid based surfactant, and at least one amphoteric polymer, preferably Polyquaternium-47, the composition advantageously being sulfate- and silicone-free.
  • the main purpose of a shampoo for cleansing hair is to remove dirt.
  • Dirt may be composed of external components, such as dust particles, which were deposited on hair and scalp or residues of styling and conditioning compositions, as well as lipids and dead cell materials, which are originated from the scalp and hair itself.
  • surfactants By the aid of surfactants in the cleansing compositions, the components of the dirt are solubilized and removed from the surface of hair and skin during rinsing off.
  • the surfactant sodium laureth sulfate was the first and main choice for cleans ing compositions.
  • This surfactant has good cleansing properties and develops, optionally together with further surfactants, rich and stable foam.
  • the incorporation of sodium laureth sulfate in cleansing products is well established and results in stable products, which build up a sufficient and relatively stable viscosity. This is advantageous in relation to a constant good removal of products from the packaging and a constant consistency of the products over the time period of storage, sale and usage.
  • EP 2410979 B1 is directed to compositions free from components having poly eth ylene glycol (PEG) residues, there is a disclosure of shampoo compositions, which are free from PEG and sulfate.
  • PEG poly eth ylene glycol
  • EP 2468842 B1 describes mild and clear cleansers, containing polyglyceryl nonionic surfac tants. In addition, it is described that the anionic surfactants are non-sulfate surfactants.
  • WO 2015/079026 A1 describes compositions free from sulfate surfactants and amphoteric surfactants.
  • EP 3145483 B1 discloses foaming compositions, which do not contain soaps and sulfate surfactants.
  • WO 2016/093155 A1 discloses cleansing compositions free from anionic surfactants containing sulfate residues.
  • US 9974726 B2 describes gentle cleansing compositions containing a taurate surfactant, an isethionate surfactant, a betaine and a nonionic emulsifier. Said surfactants were chosen, because sulfate surfactants should be eliminated.
  • US 2018/01 16937 A1 discloses cleansing compositions free from sulfate surfactants and ethoxylated surfactants.
  • ON 106619162 A describes a mild cleansing composition containing surfactants in form of N- fatty acyl amino acid salts, fatty acid alkyl betaine and a thickening agent; the thickening agent being chosen from glycerol monolaurate, PEG-120 methyl glucose fatty acid, and co conut oil fatty acid monoethanolamide.
  • the surfactants chosen as a replacement for sulfate surfactants, especially sodi um laureth sulfate are surfactants based on amino acids and/or surfactants containing resi dues of sulfonic acid.
  • the conventional ingredients such as natural oils and silicone oils, providing a conditioning and/or caring effect to hair, cannot be used because of their poor solubility and hence resulting in turbid preparations.
  • CN 106420423 A describes preparations containing amino acid foaming agents, in addition said preparations are free from silicone components. However, there is no disclosure of transparent preparations and how this could be achieved.
  • a mild and clear cleansing composition especially shampoo composition, which has a constant consistency and a suffi cient long term stability.
  • Said composition shall be sulfate-free.
  • the composition shall provide good combability to hair.
  • a surfactant system comprising at least one amino acid based surfactant
  • the composition is a cosmetic cleansing composition, especially a shampoo composition.
  • the composition is an aqueous composition and contains water in an amount of 30 to 90 % by weight, preferably 60 to 80 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • sulfates are salts or esters of sulfuric acid.
  • the salts are represented by the formulas SO 4 2 (anion) and HSO 4 2 (bisulfate anion), whereas the es ters have the formula R-O-SO 2 -O-R’, wherein R and R’ are organic residues and R’ may be hydrogen.
  • sulfuric acid dissociates and salts are formed.
  • free from sulfates means that the respective raw ma terial or the respective composition contains less than 0.1 % by weight, preferably less than 0.01 % by weight, and more preferably 0 % by weight of sulfate ions and/or sulfate esters in relation to the total weight of the raw material and/or in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention does not contain any surfactants having sulfate residues.
  • the total composition is free from any sulfate.
  • Silicones are synthetic components, mostly in form of polymers, containing silicium atoms connected via oxygen atoms.
  • the composition is free from silicone components.
  • the term“free from” is intended to mean a composition containing less than 0.1 % by weight, preferably less than 0.01 % by weight, more preferably 0.001 % by weight, most preferably 0 % by weight, of a respective compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the surfactant system comprises at least one amino acid based surfactant, with the proviso that nonionic surfactants are not contained in the surfac tant system.
  • Amino acid based surfactants are anionic surfactants.
  • amino acid based surfactants are acyl amino acids (and their salts), examples being presented in the following listing:
  • acyl glutamates for example, sodium acyl glutamate, di-TEA-palmitoyl aspartate, and sodium caprylic/capric glutamate,
  • acyl peptides for example, palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl- hydrolyzed soy protein, and sodium/potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
  • ⁇ sarcosinates for example, myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
  • the at least one acyl amino acid is cho sen from sarcosinates, more preferably sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, which may be purchased as AMIN LS 30 or as AMIN LS30-NP, both from Guangzhou Tinci.
  • the at least one amino acid based surfactant is contained in a total amount of 0.5 to 50.0 % by weight, preferably 9.0 to 40.0 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the surfactant system may additionally contain at least one alkyl or alkyl- amidopropyl betaine surfactant.
  • the at least one alkyl or alkylamido betaine surfactant is chosen from alkyl amidopropyl betaine surfactants, more preferably lauramidopropyl betaine, which may be purchased as LAB-30K from Wuhan Double.
  • the at least one alkyl or alkylamido betaine sur factant is contained in a total amount of 0.5 to 50.0 % by weight, preferably 7.0 to 30.0 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and lauramidopropyl betaine are contained.
  • a thickening system comprising at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one highly ethoxylated fatty derivative may be contained in the composition of the present invention, with the proviso that nonionic surfactants are not contained in the surfactant sys tem.
  • Nonionic surfactants may be characterized by polyether chains. Nonionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium. Besides their function as surfactants nonionic surfactants may have a thickening effect, depending on the surfactants and/or other components of the respective cleansing composition.
  • Nonionic surfactants which may be used according to the invention are:
  • Alkanol amides such as cocoamides MEA/DEA/MIPA
  • Amine oxides such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide
  • Esters that are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerin, sorbitan, or other alcohols, ethoxylated/propoxylated esters, ethoxylated/propoxylated glycerin esters, ethoxylated/propoxylated triglyceride esters
  • Ethers for example, ethoxylated/propoxylated alcohols (e.g., Iaureth-X, X being 2 to 10, wherein X represents ethylene oxide residues), ethoxylat- ed/propoxylatedcholesterines, ethoxylated/propoxylated lanolin, propoxylated POE ethers, and alkyl polyglycosides, such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside, cocoglyco side,
  • ethoxylated/propoxylated alcohols e.g., Iaureth-X, X being 2 to 10, wherein X represents ethylene oxide residues
  • ethoxylat- ed/propoxylatedcholesterines ethoxylated/propoxylated lanolin
  • propoxylated POE ethers propoxylated POE ethers
  • alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside
  • Methyl glucose esters esters of hydroxy acids.
  • the at least one nonionic surfactant is chosen from alkanol amides, more prefera bly from cocoamides MEA/DEA/MIPA.
  • cocamide MEA may be purchased as Uceomid CMEA from Guangzhou Startec.
  • the at least one nonionic surfactant preferably the at least one alkanolamide, more preferably the at least one cocamide, is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2.5 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • highly ethoxylated fatty derivatives are esters of a fatty acid and a highly ethoxylated polyol.
  • the fatty acid ester of an ethoxylated polyol may be a single fatty acid ester of an ethoxylated polyol or a mixture of such esters wherein each component of the mixture is a fatty acid ester of an ethoxylated polyol having a definite degree of ethoxylation and/or a definite degree of esterification.
  • An ethoxylated poly ol is any compound having at least 3 alcohol groups wherein the majority of the alcohol func tionalities has been etherified with polyoxyethylene.
  • Preferred alcohols are glycerine and glucose.
  • highly ethoxylated fatty derivatives are polyethylene glycol mono- or diester of fatty acids having 12 to 30 carbon atoms. In the sense of the present invention highly ethoxylated means that in average at least 50 ethylene glycol residues per molecule are contained.
  • preferred highly ethoxylated fatty acid derivatives are PEG-150 Distearate, PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate and PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate.
  • composition of the present invention contains PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, which may be purchased as Glucamate DOE-120 from Lubrizol Advanced Materials or purchased as Methyl Gluceth DOE 120 KC from KCI.
  • the at least one highly ethoxylated fatty derivative is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.3 to 2.0 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention cocamide MEA and PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate are contained.
  • composition of the present invention contains a surfac tant system comprising at least one amino acid based surfactant.
  • the amino acid based sur factants are known to be up to seven times less harsh than conventional sulfate-based ani onic surfactants. Therefore, by including a mild amino acid based surfactant the composition of the present invention is significantly less irritative than conventional sulfate surfactant con taining compositions.
  • composition of the pre sent invention a conditioning and caring effect should be provided by the composition of the pre sent invention.
  • the conventional components for providing said effects such as natural oils and silicones had to be avoided because of causing turbidi ty-
  • compositions containing equal amounts of Polyquaternium-10, guar hydrox yl propyl trimonium chloride (cationic polymers) and amphoteric polymers revealed differ ences.
  • the conditioning effect of compositions containing amphoteric polymers was evaluat ed better than the effect for those containing cationic polymers.
  • the transparency of some compositions was affected. If compositions containing Polyquaternium-10 or guar hydroxyl propyl trimonium chloride were exposed to air, the compositions turned turbid.
  • compositions containing Polyquaternium-10 and guar hydroxyl propyl trimonium chloride could not be achieved by compositions containing Polyquaternium-10 and guar hydroxyl propyl trimonium chloride. Only the compositions containing amphoteric polymers stayed clear, even after exposure to air.
  • the composition may contain amphoteric polymers, pref erably chosen from Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-47, and Polyquaternium-53.
  • Polyquaternium-22 may be purchased as Merquat 295, Polyquaternium-47 as Merquat 2001 polymer and Polyquaternium 53 as Merquat 2003, all from the company of Lubrizol.
  • Polyquaternium 47 and Polyquaternium 53 are characterized by the formulas shown below: Polyquaternium 47:
  • the at least one amphoteric polymer is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.02 to 2.0 % by weight, and more pref- erably 0.02 to 0.63 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition and in rela tion to the active content.
  • the pH value of the compositions according to the present invention may be adjusted by all means suitable for cosmetic compositions. However, it is preferred, if suitable amounts of a- and b-hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, and/or glycolic acid, are contained to adjust the pH value to a value from 4.5 to 7.0.
  • a- and b-hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, and/or glycolic acid
  • the cleansing composition of the present invention may further comprise one or more pre servatives.
  • Suitable preservatives to be comprised in the composition of the present inven tion are for example phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyglycerinmethylparaben, ethylparaben, benzyl alcohol, methylisothiazolinone, methyl chloroisothiazolinone and/or DMDM hydantoin.
  • the one or more preservatives are contained in an amount of 0.0001 to 0.2 % by weight, preferably 0.01 to 0.15 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may be prepared by any technique known or effec tive to prepare a hair cleansing composition.
  • the process to prepare the composition of the present invention comprises conventional formulating and mixing techniques. However, it is recommended to use the following process for preparation:
  • one or more amino acid based surfactants e.g., Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
  • one or more alkyl or alkylamidobetaine surfactants e.g., Lauramidopropyl Betaine
  • one or more nonionic surfactants e.g., Cocamide MEA
  • one or more ethoxylated fatty derivative e.g., PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate
  • amphoteric polymers e.g., Polyquaternium-47
  • an IKA RW20 digital or IKA Eurostar stir equipment and a stirrer e.g., a paddle stirrer, is used.
  • the amounts given refer to raw material content.
  • compositions comprising Polyquaternium-47 at different concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight (raw material content, corresponding to 0.021 ; 0.105; 0.21 ; 0.315; 0.63; and 1.05 % by weight active content; Composition Examples 1 to 6) are prepared as samples of the present invention, and a blank shampoo is used as the comparative sample, which does not comprise any amphoteric polymer. Respective test samples are filled in syringes, not revealing any details of the compositions therein. Depending on the length of the hair, the amount of sample will be 3-5 ml.
  • a trained hairdresser starts with an initial assessment of the subject's hair to be treated by evaluating and recording the condition of the subject's hair.
  • the evaluation is based on a 10-point system, "1 point” corresponds to "bad", and "10 points” corresponds to "good”.
  • a value of 5 points is a medium value, corresponding to sufficient qualities.
  • the values of 9 to 6 points give descending values, making it possible to differenti ate stepwise between good and sufficient.
  • the values of 4 to 2 points give descending values, making it possible to differentiate stepwise between sufficient and bad.
  • test and evaluation results are shown in Table 3, wherein the average score based on the 8 evaluation scores is recorded for each sample.
  • compositions of the invention were milder than products actually being on the market a RBC assay was conducted.
  • RBC assay The cell membrane destroying and protein denaturating properties of test samples are exam ined by measuring the release of hemoglobin (hemolysis) and the spectral changes of he moglobin (protein denaturation) from bovine erythrocytes.
  • the RBC test (1 hour) has been used within the EC/HO International Validation Study (Balls et al., 1995) and the COLIPA Validation Project on alternatives to the Draize eye irritation test (Brantom et al., 1997). The test demonstrated its validity for the assessment of the in vivo eye irritation potential.
  • bovine erythrocytes are incubated by shaking for one hour at room tem perature with increasing concentrations of test sample (1 , 10, 100, 1000, 10000, 100000 mg/I in PBS at pH 7.4). After centrifugation the spectral absorption of released hemoglobin is de termined photometrically at 541 nm in the resulting supernatants (extracellular hemoglobin). The cells of the pellet are lysed with water and the spectral absorption of this solution (intra cellular hemoglobin) is also determined at 541 nm.
  • the Di ow threshold concentration [mg/I] > 10% denaturation
  • the D max maximum dena turation [%]
  • composition Example 4 composition Example 4
  • the L/D ratio of Composi tion Example 4 of the present invention is about 10 times better than the ratio for the prod ucts presently on the market.
  • composition Examples 1 to 4 were evaluated in relation to phase separation, product performance, and transmittance. Respective samples of the Composition Examples were then kept at 45°C for 2 months, at -10°C for 1 month, and at 40°C in front of a window (day light) for 8 months. After the respective time the compositions were evaluated in relation to the above mentioned properties again.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

La présente invention se rapporte au domaine de la cosmétique. De façon spécifique, la présente invention concerne une composition de nettoyage cosmétique douce et claire, en particulier un shampooing, contenant un système tensioactif, comprenant un tensioactif à base d'acide aminé, de préférence du lauroylsarcosinate de sodium, et au moins un polymère amphotère, de préférence du polyquaternium-47. La composition est avantageusement exempte de sulfate et de silicone. La composition a une consistance constante et une stabilité suffisante à long terme, et offre un bon démêlage des cheveux.
PCT/EP2019/078634 2018-11-22 2019-10-22 Composition de nettoyage cosmétique WO2020104129A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2018/116893 WO2020103069A1 (fr) 2018-11-22 2018-11-22 Composition de nettoyage cosmetique
CNPCT/CN2018/116893 2018-11-22

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WO2020104129A1 true WO2020104129A1 (fr) 2020-05-28

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PCT/EP2019/078634 WO2020104129A1 (fr) 2018-11-22 2019-10-22 Composition de nettoyage cosmétique

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DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 15 July 2011 (2011-07-15), ANONYMOUS: "Shampoo", XP055658299, retrieved from www.gnpd.com Database accession no. 1587832 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 18 February 2013 (2013-02-18), ANONYMOUS: "Extra Gentle Shampoo", XP055658328, retrieved from www.gnpd.com Database accession no. 1996793 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 30 August 2017 (2017-08-30), ANONYMOUS: "Fullness & Strength Shampoo", XP055658318, retrieved from www.gnpd.com Database accession no. 5059625 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 4 July 2012 (2012-07-04), ANONYMOUS: "Candy Apple Shampoo", XP055658310, retrieved from www.gnpd.com Database accession no. 1825910 *
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 9 February 2017 (2017-02-09), ANONYMOUS: "6 Ginger Shampoo", XP055658306, retrieved from www.gnpd.com Database accession no. 4605773 *

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