WO2020103069A1 - Composition de nettoyage cosmetique - Google Patents

Composition de nettoyage cosmetique

Info

Publication number
WO2020103069A1
WO2020103069A1 PCT/CN2018/116893 CN2018116893W WO2020103069A1 WO 2020103069 A1 WO2020103069 A1 WO 2020103069A1 CN 2018116893 W CN2018116893 W CN 2018116893W WO 2020103069 A1 WO2020103069 A1 WO 2020103069A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
weight
cleansing composition
composition according
surfactant
relation
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2018/116893
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Mingjia LI
Zebao JIA
Zhaoxia Bao
Chaochun Dong
Ji Feng
Original Assignee
Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co. Ltd.
Beiersdorf Ag
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co. Ltd., Beiersdorf Ag filed Critical Beiersdorf Daily Chemical (Wuhan) Co. Ltd.
Priority to PCT/CN2018/116893 priority Critical patent/WO2020103069A1/fr
Priority to PCT/EP2019/078634 priority patent/WO2020104129A1/fr
Publication of WO2020103069A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020103069A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/54—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties
    • A61K2800/542—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge
    • A61K2800/5428—Polymers characterized by specific structures/properties characterized by the charge amphoteric or zwitterionic

Definitions

  • the present invention belongs to the cosmetic field, and it is directed to a mild and clear cosmetic cleansing composition, especially a shampoo composition, containing a surfactant system, comprising at least one amino acid based surfactant, and at least one amphoteric polymer, preferably Polyquaternium-47, the composition advantageously being sulfate-and silicone-free.
  • the main purpose of a shampoo for cleansing hair is to remove dirt.
  • Dirt may be composed of external components, such as dust particles, which were deposited on hair and scalp or residues of styling and conditioning compositions, as well as lipids and dead cell materials, which are originated from the scalp and hair itself.
  • surfactants By the aid of surfactants in the cleansing compositions, the components of the dirt are solubilized and removed from the surface of hair and skin during rinsing off.
  • the surfactant sodium laureth sulfate was the first and main choice for cleansing compositions.
  • This surfactant has good cleansing properties and develops, optionally together with further surfactants, rich and stable foam.
  • the incorporation of sodium laureth sulfate in cleansing products is well established and results in stable products, which build up a sufficient and relatively stable viscosity. This is advantageous in relation to a constant good removal of products from the packaging and a constant consistency of the products over the time period of storage, sale and usage.
  • EP 2410979 B1 is directed to compositions free from components having poly ethylene glycol (PEG) residues, there is a disclosure of shampoo compositions, which are free from PEG and sulfate.
  • PEG poly ethylene glycol
  • DE 102011003170 A1 discloses the use of alternative thickening agents in cosmetic preparations.
  • the example compositions describe PEG-and sulfate-free compositions.
  • EP 2468842 B1 describes mild and clear cleansers, containing polyglyceryl nonionic surfactants.
  • anionic surfactants are non-sulfate surfactants.
  • WO 2015/079026 A1 describes compositions free from sulfate surfactants and amphoteric surfactants.
  • EP 3145483 B1 discloses foaming compositions, which do not contain soaps and sulfate surfactants.
  • WO 2016/093155 A1 discloses cleansing compositions free from anionic surfactants containing sulfate residues.
  • US 9974726 B2 describes gentle cleansing compositions containing a taurate surfactant, an isethionate surfactant, a betaine and a nonionic emulsifier. Said surfactants were chosen, because sulfate surfactants should be eliminated.
  • US 2018/0116937 A1 discloses cleansing compositions free from sulfate surfactants and ethoxylated surfactants.
  • CN 106619162 A describes a mild cleansing composition containing surfactants in form of N-fatty acyl amino acid salts, fatty acid alkyl betaine and a thickening agent; the thickening agent being chosen from glycerol monolaurate, PEG-120 methyl glucose fatty acid, and coconut oil fatty acid monoethanolamide.
  • the surfactants chosen as a replacement for sulfate surfactants, especially sodium laureth sulfate, are surfactants based on amino acids and/or surfactants containing residues of sulfonic acid.
  • the conventional ingredients such as natural oils and silicone oils, providing a conditioning and/or caring effect to hair, cannot be used because of their poor solubility and hence resulting in turbid preparations.
  • CN 106420423 A describes preparations containing amino acid foaming agents, in addition said preparations are free from silicone components. However, there is no disclosure of transparent preparations and how this could be achieved.
  • a mild and clear cleansing composition especially shampoo composition, which has a constant consistency and a sufficient long term stability.
  • Said composition shall be sulfate-free.
  • the composition shall provide good combability to hair.
  • a surfactant system comprising at least one amino acid based surfactant
  • ⁇ at least one amphoteric polymer preferably Polyquaternium-47.
  • the composition is a cosmetic cleansing composition, especially a shampoo composition.
  • the composition is an aqueous composition and contains water in an amount of 30 to 90 % by weight, preferably 60 to 80 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • sulfates are salts or esters of sulfuric acid.
  • the salts are represented by the formulas SO 4 2- (anion) and HSO 4 2- (bisulfate anion) , whereas the esters have the formula R-O-SO 2 -O-R', wherein R and R'are organic residues and R'may be hydrogen.
  • SO 4 2- anion
  • HSO 4 2- bisulfate anion
  • esters have the formula R-O-SO 2 -O-R', wherein R and R'are organic residues and R'may be hydrogen.
  • sulfuric acid dissociates and salts are formed.
  • free from sulfates means that the respective raw material or the respective composition contains less than 0.1 % by weight, preferably less than 0.01 % by weight, and more preferably 0 % by weight of sulfate ions and/or sulfate esters in relation to the total weight of the raw material and/or in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention does not contain any surfactants having sulfate residues.
  • the total composition is free from any sulfate.
  • Silicones are synthetic components, mostly in form of polymers, containing silicium atoms connected via oxygen atoms.
  • the composition is free from silicone components.
  • the term “free from” is intended to mean a composition containing less than 0.1 % by weight, preferably less than 0.01 % by weight, more preferably 0.001 % by weight, most preferably 0 % by weight, of a respective compound, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the surfactant system comprises at least one amino acid based surfactant, with the proviso that nonionic surfactants are not contained in the surfactant system.
  • Amino acid based surfactants are anionic surfactants.
  • amino acid based surfactants are acyl amino acids (and their salts) , examples being presented in the following listing:
  • acyl glutamates for example, sodium acyl glutamate, di-TEA-palmitoyl aspartate, and sodium caprylic/capric glutamate,
  • acyl peptides for example, palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein, and sodium/potassium cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
  • ⁇ sarcosinates for example, myristoyl sarcosine, TEA-lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
  • the at least one acyl amino acid is chosen from sarcosinates, more preferably sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, which may be purchased as AMIN LS 30 or as AMIN LS30-NP, both from Guangzhou Tinci.
  • the at least one amino acid based surfactant is contained in a total amount of 0.5 to 50.0 % by weight, preferably 9.0 to 40.0 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • the surfactant system may additionally contain at least one alkyl or alkylamidopropyl betaine surfactant.
  • Alkyl or alkylamidopropyl betaine surfactants are amphoteric surfactants containing anionic as well as cationic groups and behave accordingly in aqueous solution like anionic or cationic surfactants, depending on the pH value. In strongly acidic solutions, they have a positive charge and in alkaline solutions, a negative charge. On the other hand, they are zwitterionic at a neutral pH value, illustrated by the following example:
  • the at least one alkyl or alkylamido betaine surfactant is chosen from alkylamidopropyl betaine surfactants, more preferably lauramidopropyl betaine, which may be purchased as LAB-30K from Wuhan Double.
  • the at least one alkyl or alkylamido betaine surfactant is contained in a total amount of 0.5 to 50.0 % by weight, preferably 7.0 to 30.0 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and lauramidopropyl betaine are contained.
  • a thickening system comprising at least one nonionic surfactant and at least one highly ethoxylated fatty derivative may be contained in the composition of the present invention, with the proviso that nonionic surfactants are not contained in the surfactant system.
  • Nonionic surfactants may be characterized by polyether chains. Nonionic surfactants do not form ions in an aqueous medium. Besides their function as surfactants nonionic surfactants may have a thickening effect, depending on the surfactants and/or other components of the respective cleansing composition.
  • Nonionic surfactants which may be used according to the invention are:
  • esters that are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerin, sorbitan, or other alcohols, ethoxylated/propoxylated esters, ethoxylated/propoxylated glycerin esters, ethoxylated/propoxylated triglyceride esters
  • ethoxylated/propoxylated alcohols e.g., laureth-X, X being 2 to 10, wherein X represents ethylene oxide residues
  • ethoxylated/propoxylatedcholesterines ethoxylated/propoxylated lanolin
  • propoxylated POE ethers ethoxylated/propoxylated alcohols
  • alkyl polyglycosides such as lauryl glucoside, decyl glycoside, cocoglycoside
  • the at least one nonionic surfactant is chosen from alkanol amides, more preferably from cocoamides MEA/DEA/MIPA.
  • cocamide MEA may be purchased as Uceomid CMEA from Guangzhou Startec.
  • the at least one nonionic surfactant preferably the at least one alkanolamide, more preferably the at least one cocamide, is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.5 to 2.5 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • highly ethoxylated fatty derivatives are esters of a fatty acid and a highly ethoxylated polyol.
  • the fatty acid ester of an ethoxylated polyol may be a single fatty acid ester of an ethoxylated polyol or a mixture of such esters wherein each component of the mixture is a fatty acid ester of an ethoxylated polyol having a definite degree of ethoxylation and/or a definite degree of esterification.
  • An ethoxylated polyol is any compound having at least 3 alcohol groups wherein the majority of the alcohol functionalities has been etherified with polyoxyethylene.
  • Preferred alcohols are glycerine and glucose.
  • highly ethoxylated fatty derivatives are polyethylene glycol mono-or diester of fatty acids having 12 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • highly ethoxylated means that in average at least 50 ethylene glycol residues per molecule are contained.
  • preferred highly ethoxylated fatty acid derivatives are PEG-150 Distearate, PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate and PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate. It is preferred, if the composition of the present invention contains PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, which may be purchased as Glucamate DOE-120 from Lubrizol Advanced Materials or purchased as Methyl Gluceth DOE 120 KC from KCl.
  • the at least one highly ethoxylated fatty derivative is contained in a total amount of 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.3 to 2.0 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention cocamide MEA and PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate are contained.
  • composition of the present invention contains a surfactant system comprising at least one amino acid based surfactant.
  • the amino acid based surfactants are known to be up to seven times less harsh than conventional sulfate-based anionic surfactants. Therefore, by including a mild amino acid based surfactant the composition of the present invention is significantly less irritative than conventional sulfate surfactant containing compositions.
  • composition of the present invention a conditioning and caring effect should be provided by the composition of the present invention.
  • the conventional components for providing said effects such as natural oils and silicones had to be avoided because of causing turbidity.
  • compositions containing equal amounts of Polyquaternium-10, guar hydroxyl propyl trimonium chloride (cationic polymers) and amphoteric polymers revealed differences.
  • the conditioning effect of compositions containing amphoteric polymers was evaluated better than the effect for those containing cationic polymers.
  • the transparency of some compositions was affected. If compositions containing Polyquaternium-10 or guar hydroxyl propyl trimonium chloride were exposed to air, the compositions turned turbid.
  • compositions containing Polyquaternium-10 and guar hydroxyl propyl trimonium chloride could not be achieved by compositions containing Polyquaternium-10 and guar hydroxyl propyl trimonium chloride. Only the compositions containing amphoteric polymers stayed clear, even after exposure to air.
  • the composition may contain amphoteric polymers, preferably chosen from Polyquaternium-22, Polyquaternium-47, and Polyquaternium-53.
  • Polyquaternium-22 may be purchased as Merquat 295, Polyquaternium-47 as Merquat 2001 polymer and Polyquaternium 53 as Merquat 2003, all from the company of Lubrizol.
  • Polyquaternium 47 and Polyquaternium 53 are characterized by the formulas shown below:
  • the at least one amphoteric polymer is contained in an amount of 0.01 to 5.0 % by weight, preferably 0.02 to 2.0 % by weight, and more preferably 0.02 to 0.63 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition and in relation to the active content.
  • the pH value of the compositions according to the present invention may be adjusted by all means suitable for cosmetic compositions. However, it is preferred, if suitable amounts of ⁇ -and ⁇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids such as citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid, and/or glycolic acid, are contained to adjust the pH value to a value from 4.5 to 7.0.
  • the cleansing composition of the present invention may further comprise one or more preservatives.
  • Suitable preservatives to be comprised in the composition of the present invention are for example phenoxyethanol, ethylhexyglycerinmethylparaben, ethylparaben, benzyl alcohol, methylisothiazolinone, methyl chloroisothiazolinone and/or DMDM hydantoin.
  • the one or more preservatives are contained in an amount of 0.0001 to 0.2 % by weight, preferably 0.01 to 0.15 % by weight, in relation to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may be prepared by any technique known or effective to prepare a hair cleansing composition.
  • the process to prepare the composition of the present invention comprises conventional formulating and mixing techniques. However, it is recommended to use the following process for preparation:
  • ⁇ Mix one or more amino acid based surfactants e.g., Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
  • one or more alkyl or alkylamidobetaine surfactants e.g., Lauramidopropyl Betaine
  • one or more nonionic surfactants e.g., Cocamide MEA
  • one or more ethoxylated fatty derivative e.g., PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate
  • ⁇ optionally add further components, such as e.g., perfume, solvents, pH adjusting agents, and preservative (s) ;
  • an IKA RW20 digital or IKA Eurostar stir equipment and a stirrer e.g., a paddle stirrer, is used.
  • the amounts given refer to raw material content.
  • compositions comprising Polyquaternium-47 at different concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 5.0 % by weight (raw material content, corresponding to 0.021; 0.105; 0.21; 0.315; 0.63; and 1.05 % by weight active content; Composition Examples 1 to 6) are prepared as samples of the present invention, and a blank shampoo is used as the comparative sample, which does not comprise any amphoteric polymer. Respective test samples are filled in syringes, not revealing any details of the compositions therein. Depending on the length of the hair, the amount of sample will be 3-5 ml.
  • a trained hairdresser starts with an initial assessment of the subject′s hair to be treated by evaluating and recording the condition of the subject′s hair.
  • Comb the hair with wide tooth comb, assess the dry detangling properties. After this, comb the hair with fine tooth comb, and assess the dry combability.
  • the evaluation is based on a 10-point system, "1 point” corresponds to “bad” , and "10 points” corresponds to "good” .
  • a value of 5 points is a medium value, corresponding to sufficient qualities.
  • the values of 9 to 6 points give descending values, making it possible to differentiate stepwise between good and sufficient.
  • the values of 4 to 2 points give descending values, making it possible to differentiate stepwise between sufficient and bad.
  • test and evaluation results are shown in Table 3, wherein the average score based on the 8 evaluation scores is recorded for each sample.
  • compositions of the invention were milder than products actually being on the market a RBC assay was conducted.
  • test samples The cell membrane destroying and protein denaturating properties of test samples are examined by measuring the release of hemoglobin (hemolysis) and the spectral changes of hemoglobin (protein denaturation) from bovine erythrocytes.
  • the RBC test (1 hour) has been used within the EC/HO International Validation Study (Balls et al., 1995) and the COLIPA Validation Project on alternatives to the Draize eye irritation test (Brantom et al., 1997) . The test demonstrated its validity for the assessment of the in vivo eye irritation potential.
  • bovine erythrocytes are incubated by shaking for one hour at room temperature with increasing concentrations of test sample (1, 10, 100, 1000, 10000, 100000 mg/l in PBS at pH 7.4) . After centrifugation the spectral absorption of released hemoglobin is determined photometrically at 541 nm in the resulting supernatants (extracellular hemoglobin) . The cells of the pellet are lysed with water and the spectral absorption of this solution (intracellular hemoglobin) is also determined at 541 nm.
  • the D low (threshold concentration [mg/l] > 10% denaturation) and the D max (maximum denaturation [%] ) are calculated from the change of total hemoglobin absorption (intra-and extracellular) in comparison to the total native hemoglobin (HbO 2 ) of the 100% control.
  • composition of the present invention (Composition Example 4) is evaluated milder than the products on the market.
  • the L/D ratio of Composition Example 4 of the present invention is about 10 times better than the ratio for the products presently on the market.
  • composition Examples 1 to 4 were evaluated in relation to phase separation, product performance, and transmittance. Respective samples of the Composition Examples were then kept at 45°C for 2 months, at -10°C for 1 month, and at 40°C in front of a window (day light) for 8 months. After the respective time the compositions were evaluated in relation to the above mentioned properties again.

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  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition de nettoyage cosmétique douce et transparente. La composition de nettoyage, en particulier un shampooing, contient un système tensioactif, comprenant un tensioactif à base d'acide aminé et au moins un polymère amphotère, de préférence du polyquaternium -47. La composition est avantageusement exempte de sulfate et de silicone. La composition a une consistance constante et une stabilité à long terme suffisante, et assure aux cheveux une bonne aptitude au peignage.
PCT/CN2018/116893 2018-11-22 2018-11-22 Composition de nettoyage cosmetique WO2020103069A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2018/116893 WO2020103069A1 (fr) 2018-11-22 2018-11-22 Composition de nettoyage cosmetique
PCT/EP2019/078634 WO2020104129A1 (fr) 2018-11-22 2019-10-22 Composition de nettoyage cosmétique

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
PCT/CN2018/116893 WO2020103069A1 (fr) 2018-11-22 2018-11-22 Composition de nettoyage cosmetique

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2020103069A1 true WO2020103069A1 (fr) 2020-05-28

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PCT/CN2018/116893 WO2020103069A1 (fr) 2018-11-22 2018-11-22 Composition de nettoyage cosmetique
PCT/EP2019/078634 WO2020104129A1 (fr) 2018-11-22 2019-10-22 Composition de nettoyage cosmétique

Family Applications After (1)

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US20060128591A1 (en) * 2002-07-27 2006-06-15 Harald Albrecht Detergent-dipped cleaning substrate
CN104224575A (zh) * 2014-09-12 2014-12-24 广州市天吻娇颜化妆品有限公司 一种透明无硅油洗发组合物及其制备方法
CN105748376A (zh) * 2016-04-26 2016-07-13 成都彦宁科技有限公司 一种控油防脱洗发水
CN106667797A (zh) * 2016-12-30 2017-05-17 广州市科能化妆品科研有限公司 具有自防腐功能的温和洗发水组合物
CN106619162A (zh) * 2017-03-10 2017-05-10 九江天赐高新材料有限公司 一种温和的清洁组合物
CN108096173A (zh) * 2017-12-28 2018-06-01 广州蜜妆生物科技有限公司 一种绿色温和的氨基酸洗发水及其制备方法

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