WO2020052778A1 - A hair care composition - Google Patents

A hair care composition Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2020052778A1
WO2020052778A1 PCT/EP2018/074904 EP2018074904W WO2020052778A1 WO 2020052778 A1 WO2020052778 A1 WO 2020052778A1 EP 2018074904 W EP2018074904 W EP 2018074904W WO 2020052778 A1 WO2020052778 A1 WO 2020052778A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
peg
sodium
dimethicone
acid
ppg
Prior art date
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PCT/EP2018/074904
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Adelino NAKANO
Carolina LOURENÇO
Márcia PAULA DE
Rita De Cássia CARTAXO
Original Assignee
Symrise Ag
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
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Publication date
Application filed by Symrise Ag filed Critical Symrise Ag
Priority to KR1020217010657A priority Critical patent/KR102698153B1/ko
Priority to PCT/EP2018/074904 priority patent/WO2020052778A1/en
Priority to JP2021513881A priority patent/JP2022500411A/ja
Priority to CN201880097561.4A priority patent/CN113226267A/zh
Priority to AU2018441463A priority patent/AU2018441463A1/en
Priority to US17/272,534 priority patent/US20220117881A1/en
Priority to EP18770006.7A priority patent/EP3849505A1/en
Priority to BR112021004054-4A priority patent/BR112021004054B1/pt
Publication of WO2020052778A1 publication Critical patent/WO2020052778A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/002Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • a hair care composition A hair care composition
  • the present invention belongs to the area cosmetics and refers to new blends for strengthening and protecting human hair.
  • wheat bran extracts particularly extracts of Triticum vulgare. These extracts are typically obtained by extraction of wheat bran by means of overcritical carbon dioxide. They provide moisture and provide softness and smooth feeling to human skin. The extracts are particular useful for making skin care prod ucts, but are also used for shampoos and treatment of scalp.
  • wheat bran extracts show interesting approaches for example with respect to hair combability, their overall performance leaves space for improvement.
  • EP 1 923 041 A1 discloses a composition for prophylaxis and treatment of /77a//assez/a-induced dandruff formation.
  • Formulation 4 shows a hair lotion for treating dan druff comprising less than 3 wt. -percent of an oil-soluble wheat bran extract, 0.5 wt. -percent cetearyl octanoate and 3.5 wt. -percent polyols.
  • EP 1 959 915 A1 refers to a similar composition against itching.
  • US 2013/129646 A1 is related to a whitening composition for skin and hair comprising menthyl carbamate.
  • Table 1 discloses a blend of less than 2 wt. -percent wheat gluten, 4 wt. -percent ethylhexyl isononanoate and less than 1 wt. -percent pentylene glycol.
  • the object of the present invention is directed to a hair care blend, comprising:
  • (b2) at least one carboxylic acid and/or its alk(en)yl ester other as (bl); and/or
  • Wheat bran means the broken coat of wheat.
  • Wheat bran extracts are also called Triticum vulgare extracts (CAS 84012-44-2). They are obtainable for example by overcritical extraction of wheat bran using carbon dioxide as for example disclosed in EP 0623100 A1 (UNIVERSITY R&M).
  • a water soluble product may contain addi tional solvents such as for example ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or glycerol in amounts up to 25 % b.w.
  • a water soluble product may contain about 30 to 35 % of wheat bran extracts, about 15 to 25 % b.w. propylene glycol and up to 100 % b.w. water, optionally including small quantities of preservatives.
  • An oil soluble product may contain oil bodies, such as long-chain unsaturated fatty acids or their esters.
  • an oil soluble product may contain 75 to 85 % b.w. wheat bran extracts and 15 to 25 % linoleic acid. Since the extracts are of plant origin, they may contain minor amounts of natural antioxidants. Preferred extracts are Biobranil ® Oily and Biobranil ® PGW (both SYMRISE AG).
  • Fatty acid glyceride forming component (b) typically comply with general formula (I)
  • R 1 CO stands for a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 and preferably 6 to 12 carbon atoms
  • X and Y individually represent either hydrogen or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • the glycerides can represent a fatty acid monoglyceride, a fatty acid diglyc eride, a fatty acid triglyceride or a mixture thereof.
  • triglycerides are used.
  • fatty acid triglycerides with 6 to 12 carbon atoms in the acyl res idues, and particularly capric/caprylic triglyceride.
  • compositions according to the present invention may also include carboxylic acids and/or carboxylic acid alk(en)yl esters forming component (b2) and being different from component (bl). They may follow general formula (II)
  • R 2 CO stands for a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 and preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms and 0 or 1 to 5 double bonds and R 3 for hydro gen and/or a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical having 1 to 18 and preferably 12 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • Suitable examples encompass carboxylic acids selected from the group consisting of capronic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethyl hexanoic acid, caprinic acid, nonanoic acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmoleic acid, stearic acid, elaidic acid, linolicacid, linoleic acid, gadoleic acid, arachidonic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and their mixtures.
  • the preferred acid is linoleic acid.
  • Suitable esters encompass Ci-Cis alkyl or alkenyl esters of the carboxylic acids men tioned above.
  • the said carboxylic acid esters contain an alkyl or alkenyl radical that is selected from the group consisting of methyl, ethyl, propyl isopropyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undcyl, dodecyl, tridecyl, tetradecyl, hexadecyl and octade- cyl and mixtures thereof.
  • the preferred ester is cetearyl nonanoate or cetearyl isononano- ate.
  • the preferred diols representing component (b3) are 1,2-alkanediols, preferably fol lowing general formula (III)
  • R 4 stands for an alkyl radical having 5 to 12 carbon atoms.
  • R 4 stands for an alkyl radical having 5 to 12 carbon atoms.
  • Particular preferred are the following species: 1,2-pentanediol (Hydrolite ® S, SYMRISE AG), 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2- octanediol or a binary (Symdiol ® 68, SYMRISE AG) or ternary mixture of these compounds.
  • Said alkanediols, particular mixtures of two or three of them, are well-known cosmetic in gredients, which are often used for improving antimicrobial protection of a cosmetic com position (EP 1478231 Bl, SYMRISE)
  • compositions may comprise said components (a) and (bl+b2) in a ratio by weight from about 1:5 to about 5:1, preferably from about 1:3 to about 3:1, more preferably from about 1:2 to about 2:1. Most preferred is a ratio by weight that is about 1:1.
  • compositions encompass components (bl) and (b2) their ratio by weight may reach from about 1:10 to about 10:1, preferably from about 1:5 to about 5:1 and more preferably from about 1:2 to about 2:1.
  • compositions may consist of components (a), (bl) and (b2), but it is also possible that they encompass additional auxiliary agents.
  • component (a) is water soluble or at least water dispersible
  • the blend may comprise solvents such as water, aliphatic alcohols as for example ethanol, or polyols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or glycerol.
  • the blends are soluble or dispersible in lipids, they may comprise additional oil bodies, and other lipophilic additives like antioxidants, extracts and the like.
  • components (a+bl+b2+b3) represent at least 70 % b.w., preferably at least 80 %, and more preferably at least 90 % b.w. of the blend.
  • the compositions contain about 70 to 90 % of components (a+bl+b2+b3) and about 10 to 30 % b.w. additives and/or solvents.
  • Another object of the present invention refers to a hair care or personal care prod uct or product formulation, comprising the composition as defined above in a working amount, for example about 0.1 to about 10 % b.w., preferably about 0.5 to about 8 % b.w. and particularly from about 1 to about 5 % b.w. - calculated on the composition(s).
  • the hair care or personal care composition may represent for example a cosmetic cream, lotion, spray, emulsion, ointment, gel or mouse and the like. Typical examples are hair shampoos, hair conditioners and corresponding "2-in-l" products.
  • the preparations according to the invention may contain antidandruff agents, irrita tion-preventing agents, irritation-inhibiting agents, antioxidants, adstringents, perspiration- inhibiting agents, antiseptic agents, ant-statics, binders, buffers, carrier materials, chelating agents, cell stimulants, cleansing agents, care agents, deodorizing agents, antiperspirants, softeners, emulsifiers, enzymes, essential oils, fibres, film-forming agents, fixatives, foam forming agents, foam stabilizers, substances for preventing foaming, foam boosters, gelling agents, gel-forming agents, hair care agents, hair-setting agents, hair-straightening agents, moisture-donating agents, moisturizing substances, moisture-retaining substances, bleach ing agents, strengthening agents, stain-removing agents, optically brightening agents, im pregnating agents, dirt-repellent agents, friction-reducing agents, lubricants, moisturizing creams, ointments, opacifying agents, plastic
  • auxiliaries and additives are anionic and/or amphoteric or zwitterionic sur factants.
  • Non-ionic and cationic surfactants can be also present in the composition. Suitable examples are mentioned along with the paragraph dealing with emulsifiers.
  • Typical examples for anionic and zwitterionic surfactants encompass: Almondami- dopropylamine Oxide, Almondamidopropyl Betaine, Aminopropyl Laurylglutamine, Ammo- nium C12-15 Alkyl Sulfate, Ammonium C12-16 Alkyl Sulfate, Ammonium Capryleth Sulfate, Ammonium Cocomonoglyceride Sulfate, Ammonium Coco-Sulfate, Ammonium Cocoyl Isethionate, Ammonium Cocoyl Sarcosinate, Ammonium C12-15 Pareth Sulfate, Ammonium C9-10 Perfluoroalkylsulfonate, Ammonium Dinonyl Sulfosuccinate, Ammonium Dodecylben- zenesulfonate, Ammonium Isostearate, Ammonium Laureth-6 Carboxylate, Ammonium Lau- reth-8 Carboxylate, Ammonium
  • PEG/PPG-20/60 Copolymer PEG/PPG- 20/65 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-22/25 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-28/30 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-30-35 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-30/55 Copolymer,
  • PEG/PPG-35/40 Copolymer PEG/PPG-50/40 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-150/35 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-160/30 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-190/60 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-200/40 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-300/55 Copolymer, PEG/PPG-20/22 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG-26-PPG-30 Phosphate, PEG/PPG-4/2 Propylheptyl Ether, PEG/PPG-6/2 Propylheptyl Ether, PEG-7/PPG-2 Propylheptyl Ether, PEG/PPG-8/2 Propylheptyl Ether, PEG/PPG- 10/2 Propylheptyl Ether, PEG/PPG-14/2 Propylheptyl Ether, PEG/PPG-40/2 Propylheptyl Ether, PEG/P
  • the percentage content of surfactants in the preparations may be from 0.1 to 10% by weight and is preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the preparation.
  • Suitable oil bodies which form constituents of the O/W emulsions, are, for example, Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters of linear C 6 -C 22 -fatty acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 -fatty alcohols or esters of branched C 6 -C 13 -carboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 -fatty alcohols, such as, for example, myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, myristyl isostearate, myri- styl oleate, myristyl behenate, myristyl erucate, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stea rate, cetyl isostearate, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, cetyl erucate, stearyl
  • esters of linear C 6 -C 22 -fatty acids with branched alcohols in particular 2-ethylhexanol
  • esters of Cis- C 38 - alkylhydroxy carboxylic acids with linear or branched C 6 -C 22 -fatty alcohols in particular Dioctyl Malate
  • esters of linear and/or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols such as, for example, propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimertriol
  • Guerbet alcohols triglyc erides based on C 6 -Cio-fatty acids, liquid mono-/di-/triglyceride mixtures based on C 6 -C 18 - fatty acids
  • esters of C 6 - C 22 -fatty alcohols and/or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids in particular benzoic acid
  • Fin- solv ® TN linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 car bon atoms per alkyl group, such as, for example, dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol ® OE), ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicone methicone grades, etc.) and/or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
  • dicaprylyl ether Cetiol ® OE
  • silicone oils cyclomethicones, silicone methicone grades, etc.
  • aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons such as, for example, squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexanes.
  • non-ionic or cationic surfactants may also be added to the preparations as emulsifiers, including for example:
  • polyol esters and, in particular, polyglycerol esters such as, for example, polyglycerol polyricinoleate, polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate or polyglycerol dimerate isos tearate. Mixtures of compounds from several of these classes are also suitable;
  • Partial glycerides Typical examples of suitable partial glycerides are hydroxystearic acid monoglyceride, hydroxystearic acid diglyceride, isostearic acid monoglyceride, isos tearic acid diglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid diglyceride, ricinoleic acid mono glyceride, ricinoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid monoglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride, linoleic acid diglyceride, linolenic acid monoglyceride, linolenic acid diglyceride, erucic acid monoglyceride, erucic acid diglyceride, tartaric acid monoglyceride, tartaric acid diglyceride, citric acid monoglycer ide, citric acid diglyceride, malic acid monoglyceride, malic acid diglyceride and technical mixtures thereof which
  • Sorbitan esters are sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan ses- quiisostearate, sorbitan diisostearate, sorbitan triisostearate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan trioleate, sorbitan monoerucate, sorbitan ses- quierucate, sorbitan dierucate, sorbitan trierucate, sorbitan monoricinoleate, sorbitan ses- quiricinoleate, sorbitan diricinoleate, sorbitan triricinoleate, sorbitan monohydroxystearate, sorbitan sesquihydroxystearate, sorbitan dihydroxystearate, sorbitan trihydroxystearate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorbitan sesquitartrate, sorbitan ditartrate, sorbitan tritartrate, sorbitan monotartrate, sorb
  • Polyglycerol esters are Polyglyceryl- 2 Dipolyhydroxystearate (Dehymuls ® PGPH), Polyglycerin-3-Diisostearate (Lameform ® TGI), Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate (Isolan ® Gl 34), Polyglyceryl-3 Oleate, Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate (Isolan ® PDI), Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate (Tego Care ® 450), Poly- glyceryl-3 Beeswax (Cera Beilina ® ), Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate (Polyglycerol Caprate T2010/90), Polyglyceryl-3 Cetyl Ether (Chimexane ® NL
  • polystyrene resin examples include the mono-, di- and triesters of trimethylol propane or pentaerythritol with lauric acid, cocofatty acid, tallow fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, behenic acid and the like optionally reacted with 1 to 30 mol ethylene oxide.
  • Cationically active surfactants comprise the hydrophobic high molecular group required for the surface activity in the cation by dissociation in aqueous solution.
  • a group of important representatives of the cationic surfactants are the tetraalkyl ammonium salts of the general formula: (R 1 R 2 R 3 R 4 N + ) X .
  • R1 stands for Ci-Cs alk(en)yl, R 2 , R 3 and R 4 , independently of each other, for alk(en)yl radicals having 1 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • X is a counter ion, preferably selected from the group of the halides, alkyl sulfates and alkyl carbonates.
  • Cationic surfactants, in which the nitrogen group is substituted with two long acyl groups and two short alk(en)yl groups are particularly preferred.
  • Esterquats A further class of cationic surfactants particularly useful as co-surfactants for the present invention is represented by the so-called esterquats.
  • Esterquats are generally understood to be quaternised fatty acid triethanolamine ester salts. These are known compounds which can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. Reference is made in this connection to International patent application WO 91/01295 Al, according to which triethanolamine is partly esterified with fatty acids in the presence of hypophosphorous acid, air is passed through the reaction mixture and the whole is then quaternised with dimethyl sulphate or ethylene oxide.
  • German patent DE 4308794 Cl describes a process for the production of solid esterquats in which the quaternisation of triethanolamine esters is carried out in the presence of suitable dispersants, preferably fatty alcohols.
  • esterquats suitable for use in accordance with the invention are products of which the acyl component derives from monocarboxylic acids corresponding to formula RCOOH in which RCO is an acyl group containing 6 to 10 carbon atoms, and the amine component is triethanolamine (TEA).
  • monocarboxylic acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid and technical mixtures thereof such as, for example, so-called head-fractionated fatty acid.
  • Esterquats of which the acyl component derives from monocarboxylic acids containing 8 to 10 carbon atoms are preferably used.
  • esterquats are those of which the acyl component derives from dicarboxylic acids like malonic acid, succinic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, glutaric acid, sorbic acid, pimelic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid and/or dodecanedioic acid, but preferably adipic acid.
  • esterquats of which the acyl component derives from mixtures of monocarboxylic acids containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, and adipic acid are preferably used.
  • the molar ratio of mono and dicarboxylic acids in the final esterquat may be in the range from 1:99 to 99:1 and is preferably in the range from 50:50 to 90:10 and more particularly in the range from 70:30 to 80:20.
  • other suitable esterquats are quaternized ester salts of mono-/dicarboxylic acid mixtures with diethanolalkyamines or 1,2-dihydroxypropyl dialkylamines.
  • the esterquats may be obtained both from fatty acids and from the corresponding triglycerides in admixture with the corresponding dicarboxylic acids.
  • Superfatting agents may be selected from such substances as, for example, lanolin and lecithin and also polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fat ty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides, the fatty acid alkanolamides also serving as foam stabilizers.
  • the consistency factors mainly used are fatty alcohols or hydroxyfatty alcohols con taining 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and also partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxyfatty acids.
  • a combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and/or fatty acid N-methyl glucamides of the same chain length and/or polyglycerol poly-12- hydroxystea rates is preferably used.
  • Suitable thickeners are polymeric thickeners, such as Aerosil ® types (hydrophilic sili cas), polysaccharides, more especially xanthan gum, guar-guar, agar-agar, alginates and ty loses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl cellulose, also relatively high molecular weight polyethylene glycol monoesters and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates (for exam ple Carbopols ® [Goodrich] or Synthalens ® [Sigma]), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone, surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols, for example pentaerythritol or trimethylol propane, nar- row-range fatty alcohol ethoxylates and electrolytes, such as sodium chloride and ammoni um chloride.
  • Aerosil ® types hydrophil
  • Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives such as, for example, the quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose obtainable from Amerchol under the name of Polymer JR 400 ® , cationic starch, copolymers of diallyl ammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl imidazole polymers such as, for example, Luviquat ® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides such as, for example, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen (Lamequat ® L, Grilnau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers such as, for example, amodimethicone, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohy- droxypropyl diethylenetriamine (Carta retine
  • Suitable anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers are, for example, vinyl acetate/crotonic acid copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate/butyl maleate/isobornyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinylether/maleic anhydride copolymers and esters thereof, uncrosslinked and polyol-crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyl trimethylammonium chloride/acrylate copolymers, octylacryl- amide/methyl methacrylate/tert.-butylaminoethyl methacrylate/2-hydroxypropyl methacry late copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone/dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate/vinyl caprolactam
  • Suitable pearlising waxes are, for example, alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid alkanolamides, especially cocofatty acid diethanolamide; partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; esters of polybasic, optionally hydroxy- substituted carboxylic acids with fatty alcohols containing 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain esters of tartaric acid; fatty compounds, such as for example fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, fatty ethers and fatty carbonates which contain in all at least 24 carbon atoms, especially laurone and distearylether; fatty acids, such as stearic acid, hy- droxystearic acid or behenic acid, ring opening products of olefin epoxides containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and/or polyols con ta
  • Suitable silicones can be chosen from the group consisting of: Acefylline Methylsi- lanol Mannuronate, Acetylmethionyl Methylsilanol Elastinate Acrylates/Behenyl, Acry- late/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Behenyl Methacrylate/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Bis-Hydroxypropyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Acry- lates/Dimethicone Copolymer, Acrylates/Dimethicone Methacrylate/Ethylhexyl Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Dimethiconol Acrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Ethylhexyl Acry- late/Dimethicone Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates/Octylacrylamide/Diphenyl Amodime
  • silicones to be contained in the mixture according to the inven tions are Dimethicone, Cyclomethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone, Cyclohexasiloxane and Cyclo- pentasiloxane.
  • Dimethicone Cyclomethicone
  • Phenyl Trimethicone Phenyl Trimethicone
  • Cyclohexasiloxane Cyclo- pentasiloxane
  • waxes may also be present in the preparations, more espe cially natural waxes such as, for example, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, espar- tograss wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), uropygial fat, ceresine, ozocerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes and microwaxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes) such as, for example, montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes such as, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol wax es.
  • candelilla wax carnauba wax, Japan wax, espar- tograss wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice oil wax
  • Metal salts of fatty acids such as, for example, magnesium, aluminium and/or zinc stearate or ricinoleate may be used as stabilizers.
  • Primary sun protection factors in the context of the invention are, for example, or ganic substances (light filters) which are liquid or crystalline at room temperature and which are capable of absorbing ultraviolet radiation and of releasing the energy absorbed in the form of longer-wave radiation, for example heat.
  • ganic substances light filters
  • the formulations according to the invention advantageously contain at least one UV- A filter and/or at least one UV-B filter and/or a broadband filter and/or at least one inorgan ic pigment.
  • Formulations according to the invention preferably contain at least one UV-B filter or a broadband filter, more particularly preferably at least one UV-A filter and at least one UV-B filter.
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions preferably topical formulations according to the present invention comprise one, two, three or more sun protection factors selected from the group consistiung of 4-aminobenzoic acid and derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, ben- zophenone derivatives, dibenzoylmethane derivatives, diphenyl acrylates, 3-imidazol-4-yl acrylic acid and esters thereof, benzofuran derivatives, benzylidene malonate derivatives, polymeric UV absorbers containing one or more organosilicon radicals, cinnamic acid deriva tives, camphor derivatives, trianilino-s-triazine derivatives, 2-hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole derivatives, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid derivatives and salts thereof, anthranilic acid menthyl esters, benzotriazole derivativesand indole derivatives.
  • sun protection factors selected from the group consistiung of 4-aminobenzoic acid
  • UV filters cited below which can be used within the context of the present in vention are preferred but naturally are not limiting.
  • UV filters which are preferably used are selected from the group consisting of
  • beta-imidazole-4(5)-acrylic acid (urocanic acid)
  • Broadband filters which are preferably combined with one or more compounds of formula (I) in a preparation according to the present invention are selected from the group consisting of
  • compositions can comprise further typical detergent and cleansing composition ingredients such as UV-A filters filters which are preferably combined with one or more compounds of formula (I) in a preparation according to the present invention are selected from the group consisting of
  • compositions can comprise further typical detergent and cleansing composition ingredients such as UV filters which are more preferably combined with one or more com pounds of formula (I) in a preparation according to the present invention are selected from the group consisting of
  • menthyl anthranilate (Neo Heliopan ® MA)
  • these preparations contain at least one UVA filter and/or at least one UVB filter and/or at least one inorganic pigment.
  • the preparations may be present here in various forms such as are conventionally used for sun protection prepa rations. Thus, they may be in form of a solution, an emulsion of the water-in-oil type (W/O) or of the oil-in-water type (O/W) or a multiple emulsion, for example of the water-in-oil-in- water type (W/O/W), a gel, a hydrodispersion, a solid stick or else an aerosol.
  • a formulation according to the invention contains a total amount of sunscreen agents, i.e. in particular UV filters and/or inorganic pigments (UV filtering pigments) so that the formulation according to the invention has a light protec tion factor of greater than or equal to 2 (preferably greater than or equal to 5).
  • sunscreen agents i.e. in particular UV filters and/or inorganic pigments (UV filtering pigments) so that the formulation according to the invention has a light protec tion factor of greater than or equal to 2 (preferably greater than or equal to 5).
  • UV filters and/or inorganic pigments UV filtering pigments
  • Secondary sun protection factors of the antioxidant type interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is initiated when UV rays penetrate into the skin.
  • Typical examples are amino acids (for example gly cine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane) and derivatives thereof, imidazoles (for example urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides, such as D,L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L- carnosine and derivatives thereof (for example anserine), carotinoids, carotenes (for exam ple alpha-carotene, beta-carotene, lycopene) and derivatives thereof, chlorogenic acid and derivatives thereof, liponic acid and derivatives thereof (for example dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (for example thioredoxine, glutathione, cysteine,
  • amino acids for example gly cine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophane
  • Advantageous inorganic secondary light protection pigments are finely dispersed metal oxides and metal salts which are also mentioned in WO 2005 123101 Al.
  • the total quantity of inorganic pigments, in particular hydrophobic inorganic micro-pigments in the finished cosmetic preparation according to the present invention is advantageously from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • particulate UV filters or inorganic pigments which can optionally be hydrophobed, can be used, such as the oxides of titanium (Ti0 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (Fe 2 03), zirconium (Zr0 2 ), silicon (Si0 2 ), manganese (e.g. MnO), aluminium (AI 2 Os), cerium (e.g. Ce 2 03) and/or mixtures thereof.
  • Preferred active ingredients for hair lightening are selected from the group consist ing of: kojic acid (5-hydroxy-2-hydroxymethyl-4-pyranone), kojic acid derivatives, preferably kojic acid dipalmitate, arbutin, ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid derivatives, preferably magnesi um ascorbyl phosphate, hydroquinone, hydroquinone derivatives, resorcinol, resorcinol de rivatives, preferably 4-alkylresorcinols and 4-(l-phenylethyl)l,3-dihydroxybenzene (phe- nylethyl resorcinol), cyclohexylcarbamates (preferably one or more cyclohexyl carbamates disclosed in WO 2010/122178 and WO 2010/097480), sulfur-containing molecules, prefera- bly glutathione or cysteine, alpha-hydroxy acids (preferably citric acid, lactic acid, malic a
  • Advantageous skin and hair tanning active ingredients in this respect are substrates or substrate analogues of tyrosinase such as L-tyrosine, N-acetyl tyrosine, L-DOPA or L- dihydroxyphenylalanine, xanthine alkaloids such as caffeine, theobromine and theophyl-line and derivatives thereof, proopiomelanocortin peptides such as ACTH, alpha-MSH, peptide analogues thereof and other substances which bind to the melanocortin receptor, peptides such as Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, Lys-lle- Gly-Arg-Lys or Leu-lle-Gly-Lys, purines, pyrimidines, folic acid, copper salts such as copper gluconate, chloride or pyrrolidonate, 1,3,4-oxadiazole- 2-thiols such as 5-pyrazin-2-yl-
  • Flavonoids which bring about skin and hair tinting or brown-ing (e.g. quercetin, rham- netin, kaempferol, fisetin, genistein, daidzein, chrysin and api-genin, epicatechin, diosmin and diosmetin, morin, quercitrin, naringenin, hesperidin, phloridzin and phloretin) can also be used.
  • brown-ing e.g. quercetin, rham- netin, kaempferol, fisetin, genistein, daidzein, chrysin and api-genin, epicatechin, diosmin and diosmetin, morin, quercitrin, naringenin, hesperidin, phloridzin and phloretin
  • the amount of the aforementioned examples of additional active ingredients for the modulation of skin and hair pigmentation (one or more compounds) in the products accord ing to the invention is then preferably 0.00001 to 30 wt.%, preferably 0.0001 to 20 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 5 wt.%, based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • Formulations and products according to the present invention may also comprise one or more hair growth activators, i.e. agents to stimulate hair growth.
  • Hair growth activa tors are preferably selected from the group consisting of pyrimidine derivatives such as 2,4- diaminopyrimidine-3-oxide (Aminexil), 2,4-diamino-6-piperidinopyrimidine-3-oxide (Minox idil) and derivatives thereof, 6-amino-l,2-dihydro-l-hydroxy-2-imino-4-piperidinopyrimidine and its derivatives, xanthine alkaloids such as caffeine, theobromine and theophylline and derivatives thereof, quercetin and derivatives, dihydroquercetin (taxifolin) and derivatives, potassium channel openers, antiandrogenic agents, synthetic or natural 5-reductase inhibi tors, nicotinic acid esters such as tocopheryl nicotinate, benzyl nicotinate
  • formulations and products according to the present invention may comprise one or more hair growth inhibitors (as described above), i.e. agents to reduce or prevent hair growth.
  • Hair growth inhibitors are preferably selected from the group consist ing of activin, activin derivatives or activin agonists, ornithine decarboxylase inhibitors such as alpha-difluoromethylornithine or pentacyclic triterpenes like for example ursolic acid, betulin, betulinic acid, oleanolic acid and derivatives thereof, 5alpha-reductase inhibitors, androgen receptor antagonists, S-adenosylmethionine decarboxylase inhibitors, gamma- glutamyl transpeptidase inhibitors, transglutaminase inhibitors, soybean-derived serine pro tease inhibitors, extracts from microorganisms, algae, different microalgae or plants and plant parts of for example the families Leguminosae,
  • compositions may also contain one or more substances with a physiological cooling effect (cooling agents), which are preferably selected here from the following list: menthol and menthol derivatives (for example L-menthol, D-menthol, racemic menthol, isomenthol, neoisomenthol, neomenthol) menthylethers (for example (l-menthoxy)-l,2- propandiol, (l-menthoxy)-2-methyl-l,2-propandiol, l-menthyl-methylether), menthylesters (for example menthylformiate, menthylacetate, menthylisobutyrate, menthyllactates, L- menthyl-L-lactate, L-menthyl-D-lactate, menthyl-(2-methoxy)acetate, menthyl-(2- methoxyethoxy)acetate, menthylpyroglutamate), menthylcarbonates (for example L-menthol
  • Suitable anti-inflammatory agents may be selected from the group formed by:
  • steroidal anti-inflammatory substances of the corticosteroid type in particular hy drocortisone, hydrocortisone derivatives such as hydrocortisone 17-butyrate, dexa- methasone, dexamethasone phosphate, methylprednisolone or cortisone
  • non-steroidal anti-inflammatory substances in particular oxicams such as piroxicam or tenoxicam, salicylates such as aspirin, disalcid, solprin or fendosal, acetic acid de rivatives such as diclofenac, fenclofenac, indomethacin, sulindac, tolmetin or clin- danac, fenamates such as mefenamic, meclofenamic, flufenamic or niflumic, propi onic acid derivatives such as ibuprofen, naproxen or benoxaprofen, pyrazoles such as pheny
  • histamine receptor antagonists include serine protease inhibitors (e.g. of Soy extracts), TRPV1 antagonists (e.g. 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol), NK1 antagonists (e.g. Aprepitant, Hy- droxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid), cannabinoid receptor agonists (e.g. Palmitoyl Ethanolamine) and TRPV3 antagonists.
  • serine protease inhibitors e.g. of Soy extracts
  • TRPV1 antagonists e.g. 4-t-Butylcyclohexanol
  • NK1 antagonists e.g. Aprepitant, Hy- droxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid
  • cannabinoid receptor agonists e.g. Palmitoyl Ethanolamine
  • TRPV3 antagonists e.g. Palmitoyl Ethanolamine
  • Suitable anti-microbial agents are, in principle, all substances effective against Gram positive bacteria, such as, for example, 4- hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts and esters, N-(4- chlorophenyl)-N'-(3,4- dichlorophenyl)urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxy-diphenyl ether (triclosan), 4-chloro-3, 5-dimethyl-phenol, 2,2'-methylenebis(6-bromo-4- chlorophenol), 3- methyl-4-(l-methylethyl)phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chloro-phenol, 3-(4-chlorophenoxy)-l,2- propanediol, 3-iodo-2-propynyl butylcarbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, oil of cloves, menthol, mint oil,
  • Suitable enzyme inhibitors are, for example, esterase inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates, such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and, in particular, triethyl citrate (Hydagen CAT). The substances inhibit enzyme activity, thereby reducing the formation of odour.
  • esterase inhibitors such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and, in particular, triethyl citrate (Hydagen CAT).
  • esterase in hibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof, such as, for example, glutaric acid, monoethyl glutarate, diethyl glutarate, adipic acid, monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycar- boxylic acids and esters thereof, such as, for example, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate, and zinc glycinate.
  • sterol sulfates or phosphates such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate
  • dicarboxylic acids and esters thereof such as, for example, glutaric acid, mono
  • Suitable odour absorbers are substances which are able to absorb and largely retain odour-forming compounds. They lower the partial pressure of the individual components, thus also reducing their rate of diffusion. It is important that perfumes must remain unim paired in this process. Odour absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They comprise, for example, as main constituent, a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or specific, largely odour-neutral fragrances which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixatives", such as, for example, extracts of labdanum or styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives.
  • the odour masking agents are fragrances or perfume oils, which, in addition to their function as odour masking agents, give the deodorants their respective fragrance note.
  • Perfume oils which may be mentioned are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts from flowers, stems and leaves, fruits, fruit peels, roots, woods, herbs and grasses, needles and branches, and resins and balsams. Also suitable are animal products, such as, for example, civet and castoreum.
  • Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol, and hydrocarbon type.
  • Fragrance compounds of the ester type are, for example, benzyl acetate, p-tert- butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl for mate, allyl cyclohexylpropionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.
  • Essential oils of rela tively low volatility which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as per fume oils, e.g. sage oil, camomile oil, oil of cloves, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden flower oil, juniperberry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil.
  • Suitable astringent antiperspirant active ingredients are primarily salts of aluminium, zirconium or of zinc.
  • suitable antihydrotic active ingredients are, for example, alumini um chloride, aluminium chlorohydrate, aluminium dichlorohydrate, aluminium sesquichlo- rohydrate and complex compounds thereof, e.g. with 1,2- propylene glycol, aluminium hy- droxyallantoinate, aluminium chloride tartrate, aluminium zirconium trichlorohydrate, alu minium zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminium zirconium pentachlorohydrate and com plex compounds thereof, e.g. with amino acids, such as glycine.
  • Standard film formers are, for example, chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quater- nized chitosan, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone/vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof and similar compounds.
  • Suitable antidandruff agents are Pirocton Olamin (l-hydroxy-4-methyl-6-(2,4,4- trimethylpentyl)-2-(lH)-pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypivaf (Climbazole), Keto- conazol ® (4-acetyl-l- ⁇ 4-[2-(2,4-dichlorophenyl) r-2-(lH-imidazol-l-ylmethyl)-l,3-dioxylan-c- 4-ylmethoxyphenyl ⁇ -piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, colloidal sulfur, sulfur polyethylene glycol sorbitan monooleate, sulfur ricinol polyethoxylate, sulfur tar dis tillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid, monoeth- anolamide sulfosuccinate Na salt, Lamepon ® UD
  • Preferred cosmetics carrier materials are solid or liquid at 25°C and 1013 mbar (in cluding highly viscous substances) as for example glycerol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,2- butylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, ethanol, water and mixtures of two or more of said liquid carrier materials with water.
  • these preparations ac cording to the invention may be produced using preservatives or solubilizers.
  • Other pre ferred liquid carrier substances which may be a component of a preparation according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of oils such as vegetable oil, neutral oil and mineral oil.
  • Preferred solid carrier materials which may be a component of a preparation ac cording to the invention are hydrocolloids, such as starches, degraded starches, chemically or physically modified starches, dextrins, (powdery) maltodextrins (preferably with a dex trose equivalent value of 5 to 25, preferably of 10 - 20), lactose, silicon dioxide, glucose, modified celluloses, gum arabic, ghatti gum, traganth, karaya, carrageenan, pullulan, cur- dlan, xanthan gum, gellan gum, guar flour, carob bean flour, alginates, agar, pectin and inu- lin and mixtures of two or more of these solids, in particular maltodextrins (preferably with a dextrose equivalent value of 15 - 20), lactose, silicon dioxide and/or glucose.
  • hydrocolloids such as starches, degraded starches, chemically or physically modified star
  • hydrotropes for example ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols
  • Suitable polyols preferably contain 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups.
  • the polyols may contain other functional groups, more especially amino groups, or may be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are
  • alkylene glycols such as, for example, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average mo lecular weight of 100 to 1000 Dalton;
  • methylol compounds such as, in particular, trimethylol ethane, trimethylol propane, trimethylol butane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol;
  • lower alkyl glucosides particularly those containing 1 to 8 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, for example methyl and butyl glucoside;
  • sugar alcohols containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms for example sorbitol or mannitol
  • sugars containing 5 to 12 carbon atoms for example glucose or sucrose
  • dialcoholamines such as diethanolamine or 2-aminopropane-l,3-diol.
  • Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid and the other classes of compounds listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Kosmetikverowski ("Cosmetics Directive").
  • Suitable perfume oils are mixtures of natural and synthetic perfumes. Natural per fumes include the extracts of blossoms (lily, lavender, rose, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juni per), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, orange), roots (nutmeg, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), woods (pinewood, sandalwood, guaiac wood, cedarwood, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, lemon grass, sage, thyme), needles and branches (spruce, fir, pine, dwarf pine), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax).
  • Typical synthetic perfume compounds are products of the ester, ether, aldehyde, ketone, alcohol and hydrocarbon type.
  • perfume compounds of the ester type are benzyl ace tate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert.
  • butyl cyclohexylacetate linalyl acetate, dimethyl ben zyl carbinyl acetate, phenyl ethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethyl phenyl glycinate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate.
  • Ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether while aldehydes include, for example, the linear alkanals containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetalde- hyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal.
  • suitable ketones are the ionones, -isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone.
  • Suitable alcohols are anethol, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpine- ol.
  • the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, it is preferred to use mixtures of different perfume compounds which, together, produce an agreeable per fume.
  • Other suitable perfume oils are essential oils of relatively low volatility which are mostly used as aroma components. Examples are sage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, melissa oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime-blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil, ladanum oil and lavendin oil.
  • bergamot oil dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzyl acetone, cyclamen aldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, citrus oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavendin oil, clary oil, damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose
  • Suitable dyes are any of the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes as listed, for example, in the publication "Kosmetician mistakestoff” of the Farbstoff- kommission der Deutschen Deutschen Anlagenstician, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pag- es 81 to 106. Examples include cochineal red A (C.l. 16255), patent blue V (C.l. 42051), in- digotin (C.l. 73015), chlorophyllin (C.l. 75810), quinoline yellow (C.l. 47005), titanium dioxide (C.l. 77891), indanthrene blue RS (C.l. 69800) and madder lake (C.l. 58000).
  • cochineal red A C.l. 16255
  • patent blue V C.l. 42051
  • in- digotin C.l. 73015
  • chlorophyllin C.l. 75810
  • quinoline yellow C.l. 47005
  • titanium dioxide C.l.
  • Luminol may also be present as a luminescent dye.
  • Advantageous coloured pigments are for example titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (e.g. Fe 2 03 Fe30 4 , FeO(OH)) and/or tin oxide.
  • Advanta geous dyes are for example carmine, Berlin blue, chromium oxide green, ultramarine blue and/or manganese violet.
  • compositions according to the present inventions are selected from the group of products for treatment, protecting, care and cleansing of the skin and/or hair or as a make-up product, preferably as a leave-on product (meaning that the one or more com pounds of formula (I) stay on the skin and/or hair for a longer period of time, compared to rinse-off products, so that the moisturizing and/or anti-ageing and/or wound healing pro moting action thereof is more pronounced).
  • the formulations according to the invention are preferably in the form of an emul sion, e.g. W/O (water-in-oil), O/W (oil-in-water), W/O/W (water-in-oil-in-water), O/W/O (oil- in-water-in-oil) emulsion, PIT emulsion, Pickering emulsion, emulsion with a low oil content, micro- or nanoemulsion, a solution, e.g.
  • a gel including hydrogel, hydrodisper sion gel, oleogel
  • spray e.g. pump spray or spray with propellant
  • a foam or an impreg nating solution for cosmetic wipes e.g. soap, synthetic detergent, liquid wash ing, shower and bath preparation, bath product (capsule, oil, tablet, salt, bath salt, soap, etc.), effervescent preparation, a skin care product such as e.g.
  • an emulsion as described above, ointment, paste, gel (as described above), oil, balsam, serum, powder (e.g. face powder, body powder), a mask, a pencil, stick, roll-on, pump, aerosol (foaming, non-foaming or post-foaming), a deodorant and/or antiperspirant, mouthwash and mouth rinse, a foot care product (including keratolytic, deodorant), an insect repellent, a sunscreen, aftersun preparation, a shaving product, aftershave balm, pre- and aftershave lotion, a depilatory agent, a hair care product such as e.g.
  • shampoo including 2-in-l shampoo, anti-dandruff shampoo, baby shampoo, shampoo for dry scalps, concentrated shampoo
  • conditioner hair tonic, hair water, hair rinse, styling creme, pomade, perm and setting lotion, hair spray, styl ing aid (e.g. gel or wax), hair smoothing agent (detangling agent, relaxer), hair dye such as e.g. temporary direct-dyeing hair dye, semi-permanent hair dye, permanent hair dye, hair conditioner, hair mousse, eye care product, make-up, make-up remover or baby product.
  • the formulations according to the invention are particularly preferably in the form of an emulsion, in particular in the form of a W/O, O/W, W/O/W, O/W/O emulsion, PIT emul sion, Pickering emulsion, emulsion with a low oil content, micro- or nanoemulsion, a gel (in cluding hydrogel, hydrodispersion gel, oleogel), a solution e.g. in oil (fatty oils or fatty acid esters, in particular C 6 -C 32 fatty acid C 2 -C 30 esters)) or silicone oil, or a spray (e.g. pump spray or spray with propellant).
  • a spray e.g. pump spray or spray with propellant.
  • Auxiliary substances and additives can be included in quantities of 5 to 99 % b.w., preferably 10 to 80 % b.w., based on the total weight of the formulation.
  • the amounts of cosmetic or dermatological auxiliary agents and additives and perfume to be used in each case can easily be determined by the person skilled in the art by simple trial and error, de pending on the nature of the particular product.
  • the preparations can also contain water in a quantity of up to 99 % b.w., preferably 5 to 80 % b.w., based on the total weight of the preparation.
  • Another object of the present invention refers to a method for strengthening and protecting human hair, comprising the following steps:
  • the invention also encompasses the use of said compositions for improving and strengthening human hair.
  • SymHair Shape ® Shape & Color has the following composition:
  • Volume is the gain of body in a hair tress due to its humidity exposure or mechanical actions such as combing or friction of fibers.
  • Frizz is the bristling of some fibers of hair that get apart from the tress body (fly-away effect).
  • Volume / Frizz control test measures the variation in the shape of the hair tress after exposure to a high humidity environment, for a controlled period of time. The parameter measured is the number of pixels in the Image, as expression the gain of volume.
  • Protocol 5 afro hair tresses (5 g, 15 cm) were previously cleaned with SLES 10% solution for 1 minute.
  • Test products were applied 5 times in each tress (0.5 mL of product + massaging for 1 minute, followed by 1 minute of rinsing at running water at 33 °C, ⁇ 3 °C).
  • Curl definition / retention test evaluates the capability of a product in holding up the shape of the hair tress exposed to a high humidity environment. The parameter measured is:
  • Tensile test refers to a method which measures different linear mechanical proper ties of the hair fiber. Parameters measured:
  • Elastic Module measure of the stiffness of a material. The higher is elastic module, the higher is its stiffness.
  • Break extension maximum extension achieved at breaking point. Stress at 15% strain: measure of the necessary mechanical tension to deform hair fiber in 15%.
  • Break Stress measure of the necessary mechanical tension to lead the hair fiber to breakage.
  • Test products were applied 5 times in each tress (0.5 mL of product + massaging for 1 minute, followed by 1 minute of rinsing at running water at 33 °C, ⁇ 3°C).
  • Tresses were left at controlled environment (22°C, ⁇ 2°C; 50% RH, ⁇ 5%) overnight for drying.
  • Test products were applied 5 times in each tress (0.5 mL of product + massaging for 1 minute, followed by 1 minute of rinsing at running water at 33 °C, ⁇ 3°C).
  • Tresses were left at controlled environment (22°C, ⁇ 2°C; 50% RH, ⁇ 5%) overnight for drying.
  • the color of the hair may be affected by chemical and light aggression.
  • luminosity and chromatic variation are analyzed by L* a* b* scale and compared before and after hair exposure to these aggres sive agents.
  • Test products were applied 5 times in each tress (0.5 mL of product + massaging for 1 minute, followed by 1 minute of rinsing at running water at 33 °C , ⁇ 3 °C. Leave-on was not rinsed off).
  • Tresses were dried at combing machine (speed 6) for 5 minutes with blow-driers (80 °C, high wind speed).
  • Iron flat was applied 10 times on each tress (270 °C, 5 seconds per time).
  • Tresses were left at high humidity environment (25 °C, ⁇ 2 °C; 70% RH, ⁇ 5%) for 30' and lh. • Images at each time (T30'and Tlh) were then acquired .
  • Anti-dandruff Shampoo (Amounts in % b.w.)

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PCT/EP2018/074904 2018-09-14 2018-09-14 A hair care composition WO2020052778A1 (en)

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WO2024078913A1 (en) * 2022-10-11 2024-04-18 Unilever Ip Holdings B.V. Hair care compositions and methods
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RU2810486C2 (ru) * 2021-12-09 2023-12-27 Общество с ограниченной ответственностью "ПК АСПЕРА" Средство для стимулирования роста волос и средство против выпадения волос

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