WO2020004006A1

WO2020004006A1 - Circular knitted fabric

Info

Publication number: WO2020004006A1
Application number: PCT/JP2019/023065
Authority: WO
Inventors: 克彦柳; 木津　祐晴; 潔武岸本
Original assignee: セーレン株式会社
Priority date: 2018-06-26
Filing date: 2019-06-11
Publication date: 2020-01-02
Also published as: TWI791852B; CN112352073A; TW202016383A; CN112352073B; US20210189615A1; JP7198817B2; JPWO2020004006A1; EP3816332A1; EP3816332A4

Abstract

[Problem] To provide a circular knitted fabric having a good balance of elongation in the wale and course directions and having a knitted pattern. [Solution] A circular knitted fabric having a 1 × 1 rib jaquard knitting structure as the basic structure thereof. The circular knitted fabric is characterized by: having non-elastic yarn and elastic yarn being each fed in full sets and plate-knitted; knit loops occupying 10%–90% of the total structure; at least either a tuck or a welt being included; differences in the structure at different places forming a knitted pattern on the knitted fabric surface; the elongation in the wale and course directions under a load of 14.7 N/2.54 cm being 100%–280% respectively; and the elongation ratio, i.e., (elongation in the wale direction) ÷ (elongation in the course direction) under a load of 14.7 N/2.54 cm being 0.5–2.0.

Description

Circular knitted fabric

The present invention relates to a circular knitted fabric having a 1 × 1 rib jacquard knitted structure as a basic structure and plated by inelastic fiber yarns and elastic fiber yarns.

丸 Conventionally, a circular knitted fabric using an elastic yarn has been known. For example, in a rib knitting (milling knitting), by performing knitting in which a cotton yarn or a synthetic fiber blended yarn and a coated elastic yarn are knitted alternately, a moisturizing property, a hygroscopic property, and an appropriate fit property are provided. Set circular knitted fabric is known.

In addition, by knitting the entire circular knitted fabric with cotton yarn or synthetic fiber blended yarn and plating knitting of elastic yarn in part, it is excellent in hygiene and thin fabric excellent in followability to wearer's movement etc. It is known that a circular knitted fabric as a single knit can be obtained. Such circular knitted fabric is widely used for casual wear and sportswear.

By the way, in the circular knitted fabric, even if elastic yarn is not used, the course direction (lateral direction, that is, the cylindrical circumferential direction) is better than the well direction (vertical direction, that is, the cylindrical axial direction) because of its structure. ) Becomes larger. If elastic yarn is used in a part of the knitting course of such a circular knitted fabric, the stretchability in the course direction, which is originally excellent in stretchability, is further enhanced. However, in such a circular knitted fabric, since the elasticity in the well direction is not so high, the balance between the well direction and the course direction is not good.

On the other hand, as disclosed in Patent Documents 1 to 3, attempts have been made to increase the elasticity in the well direction and the course direction. In the circular knitted fabrics of these documents, elastic yarns are used for some loops, and the loops are continuous in the well direction. Therefore, the elasticity between the courses to which the elastic yarns are fed is increased, so that the elasticity in the well direction is also increased. As a whole, the elasticity in the well direction, the course direction, and the diagonal direction is increased. Is getting higher.

Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 59-35595 Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 61-11265 Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-37377

However, the conventionally known circular knitted fabric is not sufficient in terms of the balance between the elongation in the well direction and the elongation in the course direction, and there is still room for improvement. Also, it has been required to form a knitted pattern (that is, a pattern formed during knitting) on a circular knitted fabric.

Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a circular knitted fabric having a well-balanced elongation between the well direction and the course direction and further having a knitted pattern, and a method for producing the same.

The circular knitted fabric of the present invention is a circular knitted fabric in which a non-elastic fiber yarn and an elastic fiber yarn are supplied in a full set and plated and knitted in a circular knitted fabric having a 1 × 1 rib jacquard knitted structure as a basic structure. Knit loops occupy 10 to 90% of the whole structure, and include at least one of tack and welt; the difference in structure depending on the location forms a knitted pattern on the surface of the knitted fabric; The elongation in the well direction and the course direction under a load condition of 0.7 N / 2.54 cm are 100 to 280%, respectively, and the elongation ratio under the load condition of 14.7 N / 2.54 cm, that is, (elongation in the well direction) ) ÷ (elongation in the course direction) is 0.5 to 2.0.

In the above-mentioned circular knitted fabric, it is desirable that the knitting density of the finish is 105 courses / 2.54 cm or more and 48 wells / 2.54 cm or more.

In the circular knitted fabric, the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn is 11 to 110 dtex, the fineness of the inelastic fiber yarn is 11 to 110 dtex, and the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn: the fineness of the non-elastic fiber yarn is 1: 0. It is desirable that the ratio be 3 to 1: 4.5.

Further, the method for producing a circular knitted fabric according to the present invention is a method for producing a circular knitted fabric in which a 1 × 1 rib jacquard knitted structure is knitted as a basic structure. The knitting loop is formed by knitting, and 10 to 90% of the entire structure is formed into a knit loop, and at least one of tack and welt is formed. In each of the above-described inelastic fiber yarns and elastic fiber yarns, the yarn supply amount is adjusted while monitoring the tension of the supplied yarn so as to keep the tension constant. .

The circular knitted fabric of the present invention is a knitted fabric in which elastic fiber yarns are supplied in a full set and plated, and has the above elongation and elongation ratio, so that the elongation in the well direction and the course direction is high. Moreover, the elongation in both directions is well balanced.

Furthermore, in the circular knitted fabric of the present invention, since at least one of tack and welt is included in addition to the knit loop, it is possible to form various knitted patterns due to differences in structure. In a portion where the knit loop ratio is high, the surface is uniform, whereas in a portion where the knit loop ratio is low, a sense of sheer occurs and the surface changes. Therefore, when the ratio of the knit loops is arbitrarily changed depending on the location, the circular knitted fabric becomes excellent in design with a change in the surface.
Further, in the circular knitted fabric of the present invention, the knit loop occupies 10 to 90% of the entire structure, and the other portion is occupied by a characteristic portion of tack and welt. The degree of freedom of the pattern is high.

Further, according to the method for producing a circular knitted fabric of the present invention, since the inelastic fiber yarns and the elastic fiber yarns are fed in full sets to perform the plating knitting, the elongation balance between the well direction and the course direction is balanced. Can produce a good circular knitted fabric. Furthermore, in addition to the knit loop, by forming at least one of a tack and a welt, it is possible to manufacture a circular knitted fabric having various knit patterns depending on a difference in structure. In each of the supply of the inelastic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn, the knit loop, the tack and the welt are used to adjust the yarn supply amount so as to keep the tension constant while monitoring the tension of the supplied yarn. Can be formed freely.

The figure which shows a 1x1 rib knitting structure. All the structures in this figure are knit loops. The figure which shows tack. The figure which shows a welt. The figure which looked at the circular knitted fabric from the direction perpendicular | vertical to the surface.

実施 An embodiment of the present invention will be described. The embodiments described below are merely examples, and those appropriately changed without departing from the spirit of the present invention are included in the scope of the present invention.

In the following description, the numerical range is expressed as “lower limit to upper limit”, and the lower limit and the upper limit are naturally included in the numerical range. In the following description, three of "A and B", "A only", and "B only" may be collectively expressed as "A and / or B".
Further, a portion formed by tack knitting is expressed as "tuck", and a portion formed by welt knitting is expressed as "welt". The knit loop, tack, and welt are collectively referred to as “organization”. That is, the expression “organization” includes knit loops, tacks, and welts. However, when it is expressed as “1 × 1 rib knitting structure”, “1 × 1 rib jacquard knitting structure”, “basic structure”, “ground structure”, etc., the “structure” means knit loop, tack and welt. Means a wide range of knitting structures consisting of combinations of

First, the structure of the circular knitted fabric of the embodiment will be described.

The circular knitted fabric of the embodiment is a circular knitted fabric having a 1 × 1 rib jacquard knitting structure as a basic structure, and is a type of double knit. The 1 × 1 rib jacquard knitted structure is a structure in which a part of the structure in the 1 × 1 rib knitted structure is a structure other than the knit loop (specifically, at least one of tack and welt). It can be realized by card organization.

The 1 × 1 rib jacquard knitted structure is composed of two layers of ground structure on the front and back. The two layers of the ground structure on the front and back are connected by entanglement of the yarns of each ground structure, and no connecting yarn for connecting the two layers of the ground structure is used. Since the connecting yarn is not used, the elongation of the circular knitted fabric is hardly impaired, knitting is easy, and problems such as displacement of the two-layer ground structure hardly occur.

In the circular knitted fabric of the embodiment, inelastic fiber yarns and elastic fiber yarns are supplied in full sets, respectively, and are subjected to plating knitting (also referred to as auxiliary yarn knitting). Therefore, in the circular knitted fabric of the embodiment, all the structures of the two layers of the ground structure on the front and back are made of the inelastic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn. Therefore, the elastic fiber yarns are continuously connected in the well direction and the course direction, and the elongation of the circular knitted fabric in both directions is increased.

丸 The knitting structure of the circular knitted fabric of the embodiment includes a knit loop. Further, in addition to the knit loop, at least one of tack and welt is included. That is, the knitting structure has a knit loop and a tack, a knit loop and a welt, and a knit loop having a knit loop, a tack and a welt. All these knit loops, tacks and welts consist of inelastic fiber yarns and elastic fiber yarns.

FIG. 1 shows a 1 × 1 rib knit structure in the circular knitted fabric of the embodiment. In this figure, all tissues are knit loops. Further, as shown in the figure, all the structures are composed of the inelastic fiber yarns 4 and the elastic fiber yarns 5. FIG. 2 shows the tack and FIG. 3 shows the welt. 2 and 3, the tissues near the center of the figures are tack or welt, respectively.

In the circular knitted fabric of the embodiment, the difference in the structure depending on the location forms a knitted pattern on the surface of the knitted fabric. That is, at the position of the tack or the welt, the knitted fabric is transparent or the surface of the knitted fabric is concave compared to the position of the knit loop. Therefore, when the knit loop portion and the tack and / or welt portions are combined, the tack and / or the welt portion becomes a transparent portion (light-transmitting portion) or a concave portion, and the light-transmitting portion or the concave portion forms a knitted fabric surface. A knitted pattern is formed. This knitted pattern is excellent in design with a swelling feeling and a sheer feeling.

FIG. 4 shows a circular knitted fabric 1 as an example. In the circular knitted fabric 1, a thin material portion 3 in which a plurality of tacks and / or welts are gathered is regularly formed in a thick material portion 2 formed of a knit loop. These thin portions 3 form a knitted pattern on the surface of the knitted fabric.
Further, as an example, on one surface of the circular knitted fabric (for example, the back surface of the fabric, that is, the dial side at the time of knitting), all the structures are configured by a knit loop, and the other surface (for example, the surface of the fabric, ie, the knitted fabric). On the cylinder side at the time), tack and / or welt are formed in addition to the knit loop.

In knitting of circular knitted fabric, semi-jacquard knitting and full jacquard knitting are performed using a computer or a mechanical mechanism while knitting a basic organization such as an interlock organization or a rib (milling) organization. Can change the organization. When such knitting is performed, a predetermined knitting pattern is repeated in the vertical or horizontal direction on the circular knitted fabric. The basic range of this repetition is referred to as the “effective pattern range”. Therefore, the "effective pattern range" is repeated in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction to form the entire circular knitted fabric.
Incidentally, in FIG. 4, one thin pattern portion 3 and the surrounding thick portion 2 form one effective pattern range, and this effective pattern range is repeated in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction to form the circular knitted fabric 1. Of the whole.

ニット In the circular knitted fabric of the embodiment, the knit loop accounts for 10 to 90% of the entire structure. That is, the number of knit loops is 10 to 90% of the total number of tissues obtained by adding the number of knit loops, the number of tacks, and the number of welts. The remainder is occupied by tack and / or welt. Expressing this in another way, (number of knit loops) :( number of tacks and / or welts) is 9: 1 to 1: 9. This ratio is a ratio in one effective pattern range.

(4) Since the knit loop occupies 10 to 90% of the entire structure, the circular knitted fabric is stabilized, and the degree of freedom of the knitting pattern is increased.

(4) It is more preferable that the knit loop occupies 20% or more, and more preferably 35% or more of the entire structure.

丸 Further, in the circular knitted fabric of the embodiment, the finished knitting density is desirably 105 courses / 2.54 cm or more and 48 wells / 2.54 cm or more. The finished knitting density of the circular knitted fabric is equal to the knitting density of clothing or the like made by sewing the circular knitted fabric. However, the knitting density of the garment or the like after sewing may partially differ slightly from the knitting density of the finished circular knitted fabric due to a load or the like at the time of sewing.

丸 The circular knitted fabric of the embodiment has sufficient elongation in the well direction and the course direction at such knitting density. And the clothing made from the circular knitted fabric will be comfortable.

Next, the yarn used for the circular knitted fabric of the embodiment will be described. First, the elastic fiber yarn will be described.

繊 The fineness of the elastic fiber yarn used in the circular knitted fabric of the embodiment is 11 to 110 dtex (decitex). When the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn is within this range, run does not easily occur in the circular knitted fabric, and the circular knitted fabric has sufficient elongation in the well direction and the course direction. When the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn is 110 dtex or less, a phenomenon called “blinking” occurs in the circular knitted fabric (that is, the elastic fiber yarn appears on the outer peripheral side of the loop from the inelastic fiber yarn and appears on the surface of the knitted fabric, A phenomenon in which the appearance of a circular knitted fabric is impaired.In a non-defective product, inelastic fiber yarns appear on the outer peripheral side of the loop and appear on the surface of the knitted fabric more than elastic fiber yarns).

A more desirable fineness of the elastic fiber yarn is 15 to 33 dtex. When the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn is within this range, run and turning are less likely to occur, and the circular knitted fabric has sufficient elongation in the well direction and the course direction.

Further, it is desirable that the breaking elongation of the elastic fiber yarn is from 400% to 1200% since the elasticity is excellent. The breaking elongation is the breaking strength measured by the method of the standard elongation test of JIS-L-1013-1998. Furthermore, it is desirable that the elastic fiber yarn does not lose its elasticity at a temperature around 195 ° C. which is the temperature at the time of presetting.

Elastic fiber yarns are specifically polyurethane-based elastic fiber yarns. As the polyurethane elastic fiber yarn, a polyether urethane elastic yarn is preferable, but a polyether ester elastic yarn or the like may be used.

As the polyurethane-based elastic fiber yarn, for example, dry-spun or melt-spun yarn can be used. Further, it is not limited to the polymer of the polyurethane elastic fiber yarn or the spinning method.

Next, the inelastic fiber yarn used for the circular knitted fabric of the embodiment will be described.

The fineness of the inelastic fiber yarn used for the circular knitted fabric of the embodiment is 11 to 110 dtex. When the fineness of the inelastic fiber yarn is within this range, run does not easily occur in the circular knitted fabric, and the circular knitted fabric has sufficient elongation in the well direction and the course direction. In addition, when the fineness is 11 dtex or more, turning is difficult to occur in the circular knitted fabric.

A more desirable fineness of the inelastic fiber yarn is 17 to 33 dtex. When the fineness of the inelastic fiber yarn is within this range, run and turn-over are less likely to occur, and the circular knitted fabric has sufficient elongation in the well direction and the course direction.

The inelastic fiber yarn used in the circular knitted fabric of the embodiment may be either a filament yarn or a spun yarn. The filament yarn is preferably composed of synthetic fibers such as viscose rayon, cupra rayon, acetate fiber, polyamide fiber, polyester fiber, polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, acrylic fiber, polypropylene fiber, vinyl chloride fiber, etc. May be any of unprocessed raw yarn, false twisted yarn, yarn-dyed yarn and the like, and may be a composite yarn of these yarns. For spun yarn, use natural fibers such as cotton, wool and hemp, and short fibers made of synthetic fibers such as viscose rayon, cupra rayon, acetate fiber, polyamide fiber, polyester fiber, acrylic fiber, polypropylene fiber, and vinyl chloride fiber. And these may be either single or blended.

In addition, as the inelastic fiber yarn used in the circular knitted fabric of the embodiment, it is preferable to use at least two types of inelastic yarns having different gloss and / or fineness. When two types of inelastic yarns having different finenesses are used as the inelastic fiber yarns, the fineness ratio is preferably 1: 0.5 to 1: 4.

糸 Further, regarding the yarn used for the circular knitted fabric of the embodiment, the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn: the fineness of the inelastic fiber yarn is 1: 0.3 to 1: 4.5. As a more desirable ratio, the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn: the fineness of the inelastic fiber yarn is 1: 0.5 to 1: 1.5. In a more desirable form, under the condition that the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn is 11 to 110 dtex and the fineness of the inelastic fiber yarn is 11 to 110 dtex, the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn: the fineness of the inelastic fiber yarn is 1 : 0.3 to 1: 4.5 (or 1: 0.5 to 1: 1.5).

Further, the total fineness of the yarn used for the circular knitted fabric of the embodiment (that is, the fineness obtained by adding the fineness of the inelastic fiber yarn and the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn) is preferably 22 to 310 dtex, more preferably 22 to 122 dtex. .

Next, features other than the above in the circular knitted fabric of the embodiment will be described.

The circular knitted fabric of the embodiment has an elongation of 100 to 280% in the well direction and the course direction under a load condition of 14.7 N / 2.54 cm, respectively, and has an elongation under a load condition of 14.7 N / 2.54 cm. The power ratio, that is, (elongation in the well direction) / (elongation in the course direction) is 0.5 to 2.0.

When the elongation is 100% or more, the garment using this circular knitted fabric fits the body, does not give a sense of tension, and is therefore comfortable to wear. Further, when the elongation is 100% or more, an extra force is not required when attaching / detaching the clothing using the circular knitted fabric. Further, when the elongation is 280% or less, the elastic fatigue of the elastic fiber yarn is suppressed, the durability is maintained, and the strength of the fabric is secured. When the elongation ratio is 0.5 to 2.0, the garment using the circular knitted fabric is excellent in comfort and the like.

More desirable ranges of the elongation in the well direction and the course direction under a load condition of $ 14.7 N / 2.54 cm are 120 to 250%, respectively. A more desirable range of the elongation ratio under a load condition of 14.7 N / 2.54 cm is 0.8 to 1.2. If the elongation or the elongation ratio is within these ranges, the effects such as good wearing comfort of the garment using the circular knitted fabric will be further enhanced.

Here, the elongation in the present invention is an elongation measured on a test piece having a width of 2.54 cm according to the elongation test B method (constant load method) of JIS-L-1096. The load condition of 14.7 N / 2.54 cm is a reproduction of the condition of the load applied to the clothing when the average person wears the clothing and performs an operation in daily life. Note that 14.7 N / 2.54 cm means that a load of 14.7 N is applied to a test piece having a width of 2.54 cm.

Further, the circular knitted fabric of the embodiment has an elongation of 120 to 300% in the well direction and the course direction under a load condition of 22.1 N / 2.54 cm, respectively, and a load condition of 22.1 N / 2.54 cm. , Ie (elongation in the well direction) ÷ (elongation in the course direction) is preferably 0.5 to 2.0. More preferable ranges of the elongation in the well direction and the course direction under a load condition of 22.1 N / 2.54 cm are 140 to 270%, respectively. A more desirable range of the elongation ratio under a load condition of 22.1 N / 2.54 cm is 0.8 to 1.2.

Here, the load condition of 22.1 N / 2.54 cm is a reproduction of the condition of the load applied to the garment when the average person pulls the garment as much as possible. Here, 22.1 N / 2.54 cm means that a load of 22.1 N is applied to a test piece having a width of 2.54 cm.

Next, an example of an apparatus and a method for manufacturing a circular knitted fabric according to the embodiment will be described.

The circular knitted fabric manufacturing apparatus according to the embodiment is capable of performing jacquard knitting for changing knit loops, tacks, and welts for each stitch position, and a circular knitting machine capable of high-density knitting. This is realized by a combination with an electric control type yarn feeding device capable of changing the yarn feeding amount.

The circular knitting machine is a circular knitting machine having two rows of needle beds on the cylinder side and the dial side (a so-called double knit circular knitting machine). The position of the knitting needle on the cylinder side and the knitting needle on the dial side is a half pitch of the knitting needle row. It is something that is shifted (what is called “rib encounter”). Further, the circular knitting machine has an electrically controlled needle selection mechanism for performing jacquard knitting. The number of gauges of the circular knitting machine is desirably 32 to 40 gauges, and more desirably 36 to 40 gauges, in order to enable high-density knitting.

Here, the yarn supply amounts required to form the knit loop, tack and welt are different from each other. Therefore, in order to perform jacquard knitting in which knit loops, tacks, and welts are changed, a yarn feeding device that can supply an appropriate amount of yarn for each tissue is used.

Specifically, the yarn supplying device has a monitoring device (for example, a load cell) that monitors the tension of the yarn supplied toward the circular knitting machine. Further, the yarn feeding device has a control device that adjusts the yarn feeding amount based on the yarn tension detected by the monitoring device, and controls the yarn feeding to keep the yarn tension constant. By controlling the yarn tension to be kept constant, even if the structure changes, it is possible to stably supply a yarn amount suitable for the structure. Such a yarn supplying device is used for supplying both inelastic fiber yarns and elastic fiber yarns.

丸 The circular knitted fabric of the above embodiment is knitted using such a circular knitting machine manufacturing apparatus. At this time, the inelastic fiber yarns and the elastic fiber yarns are supplied in a full set, are aligned, and are knitted by plating. The two-layer ground structure on the front and back of the circular knitted fabric is knitted by two rows of needle beds on the dial side and the cylinder side of the circular knitting machine. At this time, jacquard knitting is performed, and tack and / or welt are formed in addition to the knit loop. As an example, the knitting needle on the dial side knits a knit loop at all stitch positions, the knitting needle on the cylinder side is regularly controlled to knit a knit loop at a predetermined stitch position, and another predetermined stitch position. Knit the tack and / or the welt.

Here, as an example of a method of knitting a circular knitted fabric having a sense of transparency, a fineness ratio of yarns supplied from an odd number feeder and an even number feeder is increased (for example, the fineness ratio of a yarn supplied from one feeder is increased). The ratio of the fineness of the yarn supplied from the other feeder to the other is set to 40% or less or 140% or more). Then, while knitting the entire circular knitted fabric with high fineness yarn, knitting the part to be used as the light-transmitting part with small fineness yarn, the transparent knitted fabric with the light-transmitting part formed partially Can be obtained.

Another example of a method of knitting a circular knitted fabric having a sense of sheer is that a tack, a welt, and a knit loop are regularly combined in accordance with a design to be expressed, so that the entirety utilizing the sheer sense peculiar to the tack is provided. As a result, a circular knitted fabric with a sense of sheer feeling can be obtained. In order to realize these examples, it is important to use a circular knitting machine having the above-described electrically controlled needle selection mechanism and an electrically controlled yarn feeding device.

During this knitting, the yarn feeding device adjusts the yarn feeding amount so as to keep the tension constant while monitoring the tension of the inelastic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn to be fed. Thereby, yarn supply suitable for each structure is performed.

仕上げ The finished green machine is subjected to finishing, drying, and final setting, for example, opening, scouring, presetting (dry heat setting), dyeing, resin processing, and the like. The knitting density of the circular knitted fabric completed through these steps is the knitting density of the finish described above.

丸 The finished circular knitted fabric becomes a product such as clothing through processes such as cutting and sewing. Clothing includes, for example, innerwear, casual wear, and sportswear. The entire garment may be made of this circular knitted fabric, or this circular knitted fabric may be used only for a part of the garment.

Next, examples and comparative examples will be described.

丸 The circular knitted fabrics of the following examples and comparative examples were evaluated. The evaluation items and evaluation methods are as follows (1) to (3).

(1) Evaluation of elongation As test pieces for elongation in the well direction, three test pieces of 16 cm in the vertical direction (well direction) and 2.54 cm in the horizontal direction (course direction) were prepared. Three test pieces of 2.54 cm in the vertical direction and 16 cm in the horizontal direction were prepared as test pieces of the degree. For the measurement, a constant-speed elongation type tensile tester (Autograph, AG-500D, manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation) was used. Using a chuck jig having a test piece grip portion having a tooth shape, the upper grip length was 2.5 cm, the lower grip length was 3.5 cm, the chuck interval was 10 cm, and the test piece gripping pressure was 490 kPa. Then, the elongation at a load of 14.7 N was measured at a tensile speed of 30 cm / min. After the measurement, the average value of the elongation of the three test pieces was calculated.

(2) Elongation ratio Calculated by the following formula based on the measurement result of the elongation ratio.
Elongation ratio = (elongation in well direction) / (elongation in course direction)

(3) Evaluation of Runs A cut was made in the vertical direction from the end of knitting of the circular knitted fabric, a stitch near the cut was squeezed with a nail, and the occurrence of run was visually evaluated. The evaluation results are indicated by Δx as follows.
：: No run was generated from the end of the cut x: Run was generated from the end of the cut

(4) Evaluation of knitting pattern The presence or absence of a knitting pattern based on the difference between the knit loop, tack, and welt was evaluated.

(5) Evaluation of knitting quality The knitting quality (mainly the presence or absence of a return) was visually evaluated. The evaluation results are indicated by Δx as follows.
○: Knitting quality is good ×: Knitting quality is not good

(Example 1)
As a knitting machine, a double knit circular knitting machine M-LEC7BSD (38 inch diameter, 36 gauge) manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Seisaku-Sho, Ltd. was used. In addition, E-COMPACT ATTIVO and SPINI manufactured by LGL of Italy were used as a yarn feeding device. Using this yarn feeder, a nylon filament yarn of 22 dtex 20 f and a polyurethane yarn of 22 dtex (Roika (registered trademark) C805 manufactured by Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd.) are simultaneously fed to the dial and the needle on both sides of the cylinder from the same feeder. A circular knitted fabric (double knit) having a 1 × 1 rib jacquard knitting structure as a basic structure was knitted such that nylon filament yarns appeared on both sides of the ground and polyurethane yarns were arranged inside the nylon filament yarns. The nylon filament yarn and polyurethane yarn were supplied in full sets. The knit loop was 50% of the entire structure.

The knitted circular knitted fabric is scoured, and then, an aqueous solution of 4.0% by weight of sodium benzenesulfonate, 1.0% by weight of tartaric acid as a non-volatile acid, and 0.1% by weight of EDTA as a chelating agent is prepared, and is treated at room temperature. After being immersed in the solution for 5 seconds, it was set to dry heat at a temperature of 195 ° C. for 1 minute. Then, as a dye, Aminyl Yellow FD-3RL (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.) 0.3% o. w. f. (On @ weight @ fabric), Amyl @ RedFD-GL (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.) 0.3% o. w. f. Aminyl Blue FD-GL (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.) 0.3% o. w. f. And dyeing was carried out at 100 ° C. by a liquid jet dyeing machine according to a normal prescription. After that, final setting was performed to obtain a circular knitted fabric having a finishing density of 130 courses / 2.54 cm and 73 wells / 2.54 cm.

(Example 2)
The ratio of the knit loop was 26%. Others were knitted and processed in the same manner as in Example 1.

(Example 3)
The ratio of the knit loop was set to 80%. Others were knitted and processed in the same manner as in Example 1.

(Comparative Example 1)
The 1 × 1 rib knitting in Example 1 was changed to an interlock knitting (a knitting in which 1 × 1 rib knitting is doubled, also called a smooth knitting). The knit loop ratio was 100%. Others were knitted and processed in the same manner as in Example 1.

(Comparative Example 2)
Rather than performing plating knitting with a nylon filament yarn and a polyurethane yarn, knitting was performed using only a covering yarn obtained by covering a nylon filament yarn of 77 dtex 36 f with a polyurethane yarn of 22 dtex. Others were knitted and processed in the same manner as in Example 1.

評価 Tables 1 and 2 show the evaluation results of the above Examples and Comparative Examples. In Tables 1 and 2, “〇” in the items of “1 × 1 rib knitting”, “full set of polyurethane yarns” and “plating knitting” means that the items described in the items have been performed, and × does not. Means that

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 ... Circular knitted fabric, 2 ... Thick fabric part, 3 ... Thin fabric part, 4 ... Inelastic fiber yarn, 5 ... Elastic fiber yarn

Claims

In a circular knitted fabric whose basic structure is a 1 × 1 rib jacquard structure,
Inelastic fiber yarns and elastic fiber yarns are supplied in full sets, respectively, and are knitted in a circular knitted fabric,
The knit loop occupies 10 to 90% of the entire structure, and includes at least one of tack and welt, and the difference in structure depending on the location forms a knitted pattern on the surface of the knitted fabric,
Elongation in a well direction and a course direction under a load condition of 14.7 N / 2.54 cm are 100 to 280%, respectively;
A circular knitted fabric, wherein an elongation ratio under a load condition of 14.7 N / 2.54 cm, that is, (elongation in a well direction) ÷ (elongation in a course direction) is 0.5 to 2.0.
The circular knitted fabric according to claim 1, wherein the finished knitting density is 105 courses / 2.54 cm or more and 48 wells / 2.54 cm or more.
The fineness of the elastic fiber yarn is 11 to 110 dtex, the fineness of the inelastic fiber yarn is 11 to 110 dtex,
The fineness of the elastic fiber yarn: the fineness of the inelastic fiber yarn is 1: 0.3 to 1: 4.5.
The circular knitted fabric according to claim 1.
The circular knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein at least two types of inelastic yarns are used as the inelastic fiber yarns.
The circular knitted fabric according to claim 4, wherein two types of inelastic yarns having different finenesses are used as the inelastic fiber yarns, and the fineness ratio is 1: 0.5 to 1: 4.
In a method for producing a circular knitted fabric knitting a 1 × 1 rib jacquard knitted structure as a basic structure,
While feeding the inelastic fiber yarns and the elastic fiber yarns in full sets, respectively, and performing plating knitting,
10-90% of the entire structure is a knit loop, and at least one of tack and welt is formed, and a knitted pattern is formed on the surface of the knitted fabric due to a difference in structure depending on a place.
In each of the inelastic fiber yarns and the elastic fiber yarns, while monitoring the tension of the supplied yarn, the yarn supply amount is adjusted so as to maintain the tension constant. Manufacturing method.