TW202016383A - Circular knitted fabric - Google Patents

Circular knitted fabric Download PDF

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TW202016383A
TW202016383A TW108121118A TW108121118A TW202016383A TW 202016383 A TW202016383 A TW 202016383A TW 108121118 A TW108121118 A TW 108121118A TW 108121118 A TW108121118 A TW 108121118A TW 202016383 A TW202016383 A TW 202016383A
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Taiwan
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yarn
knitting
elastic fiber
elongation
circular
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TW108121118A
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Chinese (zh)
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TWI791852B (en
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柳克彥
木津祐晴
岸本潔武
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日商世聯股份有限公司
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10Patterned fabrics or articles
    • D04B1/102Patterned fabrics or articles with stitch pattern
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials
    • D04B1/18Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials elastic threads
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/061Load-responsive characteristics elastic
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/06Load-responsive characteristics
    • D10B2401/062Load-responsive characteristics stiff, shape retention
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2403/00Details of fabric structure established in the fabric forming process
    • D10B2403/01Surface features
    • D10B2403/011Dissimilar front and back faces
    • D10B2403/0114Dissimilar front and back faces with one or more yarns appearing predominantly on one face, e.g. plated or paralleled yarns

Abstract

To provide a circular knitted fabric having a good balance of elongation in the wale and course directions and having a knitted pattern. A circular knitted fabric having a 1 × 1 rib jaquard knitting structure as the basic structure thereof. The circular knitted fabric is characterized by: having non-elastic yarn and elastic yarn being each fed in full sets and plate-knitted; knit loops occupying 10%-90% of the total structure; at least either a tuck or a welt being included; differences in the structure at different places forming a knitted pattern on the knitted fabric surface; the elongation in the wale and course directions under a load of 14.7 N/2.54 cm being 100%-280% respectively; and the elongation ratio, i.e., (elongation in the wale direction) / (elongation in the course direction) under a load of 14.7 N/2.54 cm being 0.5-2.0.

Description

圓編織物Round braid

本申請案係以日本專利申請案2018-120901(申請日:2018年6月26日)為基礎,基於日本專利申請案2018-120901享有優先利益。本申請案藉由參照日本專利申請案2018-120901而包含該申請案之所有內容。This application is based on the Japanese patent application 2018-120901 (application date: June 26, 2018), and enjoys priority based on the Japanese patent application 2018-120901. This application includes all contents of the application by referring to Japanese Patent Application 2018-120901.

本發明係有關於一種以1×1羅紋提花編織組織作為基本組織,利用非彈性纖維紗與彈性纖維紗進行添紗編織而成之圓編織物。The present invention relates to a circular knitted fabric which uses a 1×1 rib jacquard weave structure as a basic structure and uses an inelastic fiber yarn and an elastic fiber yarn to add yarn to weave.

先前已知有一種使用彈性紗之圓編織物。例如已知有一種圓編織物,其係藉由於羅紋編織(fraise stitch)中進行以棉紗或化學合成纖維混紡紗、與包覆彈性紗交替地排列之方式進行編織之交織,而具有保濕性、吸濕性、及適度之服貼性。A circular knit fabric using elastic yarn has been previously known. For example, there is known a circular knit fabric which is moisturized due to interweaving of cotton yarn or chemical synthetic fiber blended yarn and woven elastic yarn alternately arranged in a ribbed stitch (fraise stitch). Hygroscopicity and moderate suitability.

又,已知藉由一邊利用棉紗或化學合成纖維混紡紗編織圓編織物整體,一邊於一部分中將彈性紗進行添紗編織,而獲得於衛生方面優異,且對穿著者之活動之追隨性等優異之作為薄布之單面針織之圓編織物。此種圓編織物廣泛地用於休閒服或運動服。Furthermore, it is known that by knitting the whole circular knit fabric with cotton yarn or chemical synthetic fiber blended yarn while adding elastic knitting in a part, it is excellent in hygiene and follows the activity of the wearer, etc. Excellent as a single-sided knitted circular knit of thin cloth. Such circular knit fabrics are widely used in casual wear or sportswear.

且說,圓編織物即便於其組織結構上不使用彈性紗,緯圈方向(橫向,即圓筒狀之圓周方向)之伸縮性亦較經圈方向(縱向,即圓筒狀之軸向)大。若對此種圓編織物之一部分編織緯圈使用彈性紗,則原本伸縮性優異之緯圈方向之伸縮性進一步提高。然而,此種圓編織物由於經圈方向之伸縮性不甚提高,故而經圈方向與緯圈方向之伸度之平衡性欠佳。Moreover, even if the circular knit fabric does not use elastic yarn in its structure, the stretchability in the weft loop direction (transverse direction, that is, the cylindrical circumferential direction) is greater than that in the warp loop direction (longitudinal direction, that is, the cylindrical axial direction). . If an elastic yarn is used for weaving a part of the circular knitting fabric, the stretchability in the weft loop direction which is originally excellent in stretchability is further improved. However, since the elasticity of the circular knitting fabric is not very improved in the warp direction, the balance between the elongation in the warp direction and the weft direction is not good.

針對於此,如專利文獻1~3中所揭示般,嘗試提高經圈方向及緯圈方向之伸縮性。於該等文獻之圓編織物中,對一部分線圈使用彈性紗,該線圈向經圈方向連續。因此,於被供給有彈性紗之緯圈彼此之間產生伸縮性,藉此向經圈方向之伸縮性亦變高,於整體上,向經圈方向、緯圈方向、及斜方向3個方向伸縮性變高。 專利文獻1:日本專利實公昭59-35595號公報 專利文獻2:日本專利實公昭61-11265號公報 專利文獻3:日本專利特公昭61-37377號公報In response to this, as disclosed in Patent Documents 1 to 3, attempts have been made to increase the stretchability in the warp and weft directions. In the circular knitting of these documents, an elastic yarn is used for a portion of the stitches, and the stitches are continuous in the warp direction. Therefore, stretchability is generated between the weft loops to which the elastic yarn is supplied, whereby the stretchability in the warp direction also becomes higher, and as a whole, in three directions of the warp direction, the weft direction, and the oblique direction Scalability becomes higher. Patent Document 1: Japanese Patent Publication No. 59-35595 Patent Document 2: Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-11265 Patent Document 3: Japanese Patent Publication No. 61-37377

然而,關於經圈方向與緯圈方向之伸度之平衡性,若為先前已知之圓編織物則不夠充分,仍有改善之餘地。又,亦要求於圓編織物形成編織花紋(即編織時形成的花紋)。However, the balance of the elongation in the warp and weft directions is not sufficient if it is a previously known circular knit, and there is still room for improvement. In addition, it is also required to form a knitting pattern (that is, a pattern formed during knitting) on a circular knit fabric.

因此,本發明之目的在於提供一種經圈方向與緯圈方向之伸度之平衡性良好,進一步具有編織花紋之圓編織物及其製造方法。Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a circular knit fabric having a good balance between the elongation in the warp direction and the weft direction, and further having a woven pattern, and a method for manufacturing the same.

本發明之圓編織物係以1×1羅紋提花編織組織作為基本組織者,其特徵在於其係將非彈性纖維紗及彈性纖維紗分別以滿穿(full set)之方式給紗,進行添紗編織而成者,織圈佔全組織中之10~90%,並包含集圈及浮線中之至少任一者,隨部位所產生之組織差異會在編織物表面形成編織花紋,14.7N/2.54cm之負荷條件下之經圈方向及緯圈方向之伸度分別為100~280%,14.7N/2.54cm之負荷條件下之伸度比即(經圈方向之伸度)÷(緯圈方向之伸度)為0.5~2.0。The circular knitting fabric of the present invention uses a 1×1 rib jacquard weave as the basic organizer, and is characterized in that the non-elastic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn are respectively fed to the yarn in a full set manner to add yarn For woven fabrics, the woven loops account for 10 to 90% of the entire structure, and include at least any one of the tucks and floats. The woven pattern on the surface of the woven fabric will be formed according to the structural differences generated by the parts, 14.7N/2.54 The elongation in the warp and latitude directions under the load condition of cm is 100~280%, respectively, and the elongation ratio under the load condition of 14.7N/2.54cm is (elongation in the warp direction) ÷ (weft direction The elongation) is 0.5 to 2.0.

又,於上述圓編織物中,較理想為最終之編織密度為105緯圈/2.54cm以上且48經圈/2.54cm以上。Furthermore, in the above circular knitting, the final knitting density is preferably 105 weft loops/2.54 cm or more and 48 warp loops/2.54 cm or more.

又,於上述圓編織物中,較理想為彈性纖維紗之纖度為11~110dtex,非彈性纖維紗之纖度為11~110dtex,彈性纖維紗之纖度:非彈性纖維紗之纖度為1:0.3~1:4.5。Furthermore, in the above circular knitting, it is preferable that the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn is 11 to 110 dtex, and the fineness of the non-elastic fiber yarn is 11 to 110 dtex. The fineness of the elastic fiber yarn: the fineness of the non-elastic fiber yarn is 1: 0.3 to 1: 4.5.

又,本發明之圓編織物之製造方法係以1×1羅紋提花編織組織作為基本組織進行編織之圓編織物之製造方法,其特徵在於將非彈性纖維紗及彈性纖維紗分別以滿穿之方式給紗,進行添紗編織,並同時將全組織中之10~90%設為織圈,形成集圈及浮線中之至少任一者,利用隨部位所產生之組織差異而在編織物表面形成編織花紋,於前述非彈性纖維紗及彈性纖維紗各自之給紗中,係以一邊監視所供給之紗之張力並一邊使該張力保持固定之方式來調整給紗量。In addition, the method of manufacturing a circular knit fabric of the present invention is a method of manufacturing a circular knit fabric knitted using a 1×1 rib jacquard weave as a basic structure, and is characterized in that the non-elastic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn are fully worn Weave yarn by way of adding yarn, and at the same time set 10 to 90% of the whole structure as a knitting loop to form at least any one of a tuck and a floating line, and use the difference in texture generated by the part to make it on the surface of the knitted fabric. A knitting pattern is formed, and in each of the above-mentioned non-elastic fiber yarns and elastic fiber yarn feeding yarns, the yarn feeding amount is adjusted in such a manner as to monitor the tension of the supplied yarn while keeping the tension constant.

本發明之圓編織物係將彈性纖維紗以滿穿之方式給紗,進行添紗編織而成者,且具有上述伸度及伸度比,因此經圈方向及緯圈方向之伸度較高,而且向兩方向之伸度之平衡性良好。The circular knitting fabric of the present invention is a yarn made of elastic fiber yarns in a full-threading manner and added yarns, and has the above-mentioned elongation and elongation ratio, so the elongation in the warp and weft directions is high , And the balance of the extension in both directions is good.

進一步而言,於本發明之圓編織物中,除包含織圈以外,亦包含集圈及浮線中之至少任一者,因此可形成由組織差異所形成之各種編織花紋。於織圈之比率較高之部分,表面均勻,相對於此,於織圈之比率較低之部分,產生透明感,從而表面產生變化。因此,織圈之比率根據部位而任意地變化,藉此圓編織物成為表面有變化之設計性優異者。Furthermore, in the circular knitting of the present invention, in addition to the knitting loop, at least any one of the tuck stitch and the floating thread is included, so that various knitting patterns formed by differences in texture can be formed. The surface with a higher ratio of woven loops has a uniform surface. On the other hand, the portion with a lower ratio of woven loops produces a sense of transparency and changes in the surface. Therefore, the ratio of the knitting loops is arbitrarily changed according to the position, and thereby the circular knit fabric becomes a design with excellent surface change.

又,於本案發明之圓編織物中,織圈佔全組織中之10~90%,剩餘部分由集圈及浮線所形成之具有特徵性之部分所占,因此不僅圓編織物穩定,而且編織花紋之自由度較高。Moreover, in the circular knitting of the invention of the present invention, the knitting loop accounts for 10 to 90% of the whole structure, and the remaining part is occupied by the characteristic part formed by the tuck and the float, so not only is the circular knitting stable, but also the knitting The degree of freedom of the pattern is higher.

又,根據本發明之圓編織物之製造方法,將非彈性纖維紗及彈性纖維紗分別以滿穿之方式給紗來進行添紗編織,因此可製造經圈方向與緯圈方向之伸度之平衡性良好之圓編織物。進一步而言,除形成織圈以外,亦形成集圈及浮線中之至少任一者,藉此可製造具有由組織差異所形成之各種編織花紋之圓編織物。並且,於非彈性纖維紗及彈性纖維紗各自之給紗中,係以一邊監視所供給之紗之張力並一邊使該張力保持固定之方式來調整給紗量,因此可自由地形成織圈、集圈及浮線。In addition, according to the method of manufacturing the circular knit fabric of the present invention, the non-elastic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn are added to the yarn in a full-threading manner, and thus the elongation in the warp direction and the weft direction can be produced. Round braid with good balance. Furthermore, in addition to forming a knitting loop, at least one of a tuck stitch and a floating thread is also formed, whereby a circular knit fabric having various knitting patterns formed by differences in structure can be manufactured. In addition, in the yarn feeding of each of the non-elastic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn, the yarn feeding amount is adjusted in such a manner as to monitor the tension of the supplied yarn while keeping the tension constant, so the loop can be formed freely. Tuck and float.

對本發明之實施形態進行說明。以下所說明之實施形態僅為一例,關於在不脫離本發明之主旨之範圍內進行適當變更而成者,包含於本發明之範圍內。An embodiment of the present invention will be described. The embodiments described below are only examples, and those that are appropriately modified without departing from the gist of the present invention are included in the scope of the present invention.

於以下說明中,將數值範圍表達為「下限值~上限值」,下限值及上限值自然包含在該數值範圍內。又,於以下說明中,存在將「A及B」、「僅A」、「僅B」3個統一表達為「A及/或B」之情況。In the following description, the numerical range is expressed as "lower limit to upper limit", and the lower limit and upper limit are naturally included in the numerical range. In addition, in the following description, there are cases where three of "A and B", "A only", and "B only" are collectively expressed as "A and/or B".

又,將藉由集圈編織所形成之部分表達為「集圈」,將藉由浮線編織所形成之部分表達為「浮線」。又,將織圈、集圈及浮線之總稱設為「組織」。即,「組織」此表達包含織圈、集圈及浮線。然而,於表達「1×1羅紋編織組織」、「1×1羅紋提花編織組織」、「基本組織」、「底組織」等時,該「組織」意指遍及由織圈、集圈及浮線之組合所構成之廣範圍之編織組織。Also, the part formed by tuck weaving is expressed as "tuck", and the part formed by floating knitting is expressed as "float". In addition, the general term for woven loops, tuck loops and floats is referred to as "organization". That is, the expression "organization" includes woven loops, tuck loops and floating threads. However, when expressing "1×1 rib knitting weave", "1×1 rib jacquard weave", "basic weave", "bottom weave", etc., "weave" means all over the loops, tucks and floats The combination of a wide range of woven organization.

首先,對實施形態之圓編織物之結構進行說明。First, the structure of the circular knit fabric of the embodiment will be described.

實施形態之圓編織物係以1×1羅紋提花編織組織作為基本組織者,為雙面針織之一種。1×1羅紋提花編織組織係1×1羅紋編織組織中之組織之一部分成為織圈以外之組織(具體而言為集圈及浮線中之至少任一者)之組織,可藉由提花編織來實現。The circular knit fabric of the embodiment is a kind of double-knitted fabric with a 1×1 rib jacquard weave as the basic organizer. The 1×1 rib jacquard weave is a part of the 1×1 rib weave that becomes a structure other than the woven loop (specifically, at least one of the tuck and the float), which can be obtained by jacquard weaving. achieve.

1×1羅紋提花編織組織由表裡2層底組織所構成。表裡2層底組織係各個底組織之紗彼此交纏而連結,未使用將2層底組織連結之連結紗。由於未使用連結紗,故而圓編織物之伸度不易受到損傷,且容易編織,而且亦不易產生2層底組織偏移等問題。The 1×1 rib jacquard weave is composed of two layers of bottom and top layers. In the front and back, the two-layer bottom structure is the yarn of each bottom structure intertwined and connected, and the connecting yarn connecting the two-layer bottom structure is not used. Since the connecting yarn is not used, the elongation of the circular knit fabric is not easily damaged, and it is easy to knit, and it is also not easy to cause problems such as two-layer bottom tissue deviation.

實施形態之圓編織物係將非彈性纖維紗及彈性纖維紗分別以滿穿之方式給紗,進行添紗編織(亦稱為plating stitch)而成者。因此,於實施形態之圓編織物中,表裡之2層底組織之所有組織由非彈性纖維紗及彈性纖維紗所構成。因此,藉由彈性纖維紗於經圈方向及緯圈方向連續地相連,而圓編織物之向兩方向之伸度變高。The circular knit fabric of the embodiment is obtained by giving non-elastic fiber yarns and elastic fiber yarns to the yarns in a full-threading manner, and adding yarn knitting (also referred to as plating stitch). Therefore, in the circular knitting of the embodiment, all the structures of the bottom structure in the front and back layers are composed of non-elastic fiber yarns and elastic fiber yarns. Therefore, by continuously connecting the elastic fiber yarns in the warp and weft directions, the elongation of the circular knit fabric in both directions becomes higher.

實施形態之圓編織物之編織組織中包含織圈。又,除包含織圈以外,亦包含集圈及浮線中之至少任一者。即,存在編織組織具有織圈及集圈之情況、具有織圈及浮線之情況、以及具有織圈、集圈及浮線之情況。該等所有織圈、集圈及浮線由非彈性纖維紗及彈性纖維紗所構成。The knitting structure of the circular knit fabric of the embodiment includes a knitting loop. In addition to the woven loop, it also includes at least any one of the tuck and the float. That is, there are cases where the knitted structure has woven loops and tucks, cases with woven loops and floats, and cases with woven loops, tucks and floats. All of these woven loops, tucks and floats are composed of non-elastic fiber yarns and elastic fiber yarns.

於圖1中示出實施形態之圓編織物中之1×1羅紋編織組織。於該圖中,所有組織為織圈。又,如圖所示,所有組織由非彈性纖維紗4及彈性纖維紗5所構成。又,於圖2中示出集圈,於圖3中示出浮線。於圖2及圖3中,圖之中央附近之組織分別成為集圈或浮線。FIG. 1 shows the 1×1 rib knitting structure in the circular knitting of the embodiment. In this figure, all organizations are woven loops. In addition, as shown in the figure, all structures are composed of inelastic fiber yarns 4 and elastic fiber yarns 5. In addition, the tuck is shown in FIG. 2 and the floating line is shown in FIG. 3. In Figures 2 and 3, the tissue near the center of the figure becomes a tuck or floating line, respectively.

並且,於實施形態之圓編織物中,隨著部位不同所產生之組織差異在編織物表面形成編織花紋。即,於集圈或浮線之位置,與織圈之位置相比,編織物呈透明或編織物表面變成凹部。因此,若將織圈部分、與集圈及/或浮線部分予以組合,則集圈及/或浮線部分成為透明之部分(透光部)或凹部,從而藉由透光部或凹部於編織物表面形成編織花紋。該編織花紋係伴有膨起感或透明感之設計性優異者。In addition, in the circular knitting of the embodiment, the difference in texture caused by the different parts forms a knitting pattern on the surface of the knitting fabric. That is, at the position of the tuck or float, the braid is transparent or the surface of the braid becomes a concave portion compared to the position of the woven loop. Therefore, if the woven loop portion and the tuck and/or float portion are combined, the tuck and/or float portion becomes a transparent portion (light-transmitting portion) or a recessed portion, so that the light-transmitting portion or the recessed portion is applied to the knitted fabric A woven pattern is formed on the surface. This woven pattern is excellent in design with swelling or transparency.

於圖4示出作為一例之圓編織物1。於該圓編織物1中,於由織圈所構成之厚布部分2中有規律地形成有由複數個集圈及/或浮線集合而成之薄布部分3。該等薄布部分3成為編織物表面之編織花紋。FIG. 4 shows a round knitted fabric 1 as an example. In this circular knitted fabric 1, a thin cloth portion 3 formed by a plurality of tucks and/or floating threads is regularly formed in a thick cloth portion 2 composed of a woven loop. These thin cloth portions 3 become a woven pattern on the surface of the knitted fabric.

又,作為一例,於圓編織物之一面(例如布料內面,即編織時之針盤側之面),所有組織由織圈所構成,於另一面(例如布料表面,即編織時之針筒側之面),形成有織圈以及集圈及/或浮線。Also, as an example, on one side of a circular knit fabric (such as the inner surface of the fabric, that is, the side of the dial side when knitting), all the tissues are composed of the knitting ring, and on the other side (such as the surface of the fabric, that is, the cylinder when knitting) Side surface), weaving loops and tuck loops and/or floats are formed.

再者,於圓編織物之編織中,可一邊編織雙羅紋組織或羅紋(fraise)組織等基本組織,一邊於其編織中使用電腦或機械性機構進行小提花編織或大提花編織而使組織變化。若進行此種編織,則於圓編織物在縱向或橫向上重複特定之編織花紋。將成為該重複之基本之範圍設為「有效花紋範圍」。因此,「有效花紋範圍」於縱向或橫向上重複,而成為圓編織物整體。Furthermore, in the weaving of circular knit fabrics, while weaving basic structures such as double rib structures or fraise structures, we can use computers or mechanical mechanisms to perform small jacquard weave or large jacquard weave while weaving to change the structure. . If such knitting is performed, a specific knitting pattern is repeated on the circular knit fabric in the longitudinal direction or the transverse direction. Let the range that becomes the basis of the repetition be the "effective pattern range". Therefore, the "effective pattern range" is repeated in the longitudinal direction or the transverse direction, and becomes the whole circular knit.

順帶一提,於圖4中,藉由1個薄布部分3及其周圍之厚布部分2形成1個有效花紋範圍,該有效花紋範圍於縱向及橫向上重複,而成為圓編織物1之整體。Incidentally, in FIG. 4, an effective pattern range is formed by a thin cloth portion 3 and the thick cloth portion 2 around it, and the effective pattern range is repeated in the longitudinal direction and the transverse direction to become a circular knitted fabric 1. overall.

於實施形態之圓編織物中,織圈佔全組織中之10~90%。即,織圈之數量係相對於將織圈之數量、集圈之數量及浮線之數量相加所得之全組織數量為10~90%。並且,集圈及/或浮線占剩餘之百分比。若以其他方法來表達該情況,則為(織圈之數量):(集圈及/或浮線之數量)為9:1~1:9。再者,該比率為1個有效花紋範圍中之比率。In the circular knitting of the embodiment, the knitting ring accounts for 10 to 90% of the entire structure. That is, the number of woven loops is 10 to 90% relative to the total number of tissues obtained by adding the number of woven loops, the number of tucks and the number of floats. Also, tucks and/or floats account for the remaining percentage. If the situation is expressed by other methods, it is (the number of woven loops): (the number of loops and/or floats) is 9:1 to 1:9. In addition, this ratio is a ratio in 1 effective pattern range.

藉由織圈佔全組織中之10~90%,而圓編織物變得穩定,又,編織花紋之自由度提高。With the woven loops accounting for 10 to 90% of the entire organization, the circular knit fabric becomes stable, and the degree of freedom of the woven pattern increases.

又,更宜為織圈佔全組織中之20%以上、進一步為35%以上。Moreover, it is more preferable that the woven loops account for more than 20% of the entire organization, and further more than 35%.

又,於實施形態之圓編織物中,較理想為最終之編織密度為105緯圈/2.54cm以上且48經圈/2.54cm以上。圓編織物之最終之編織密度與將該圓編織物進行縫製而成之衣物等之編織密度相等。然而,因縫製時之負載等,導致縫製後之衣物等之編織密度與圓編織物之最終之編織密度在局部有些許不同。Furthermore, in the circular knitting of the embodiment, the final knitting density is preferably 105 weft loops/2.54 cm or more and 48 warp loops/2.54 cm or more. The final knitting density of the circular knit fabric is equal to the knitting density of the clothing etc. made by sewing the circular knit fabric. However, due to the load at the time of sewing, the knitting density of the clothing and the like after sewing and the final knitting density of the circular knit are slightly different in part.

實施形態之圓編織物若成為此種編織密度,則成為於經圈方向及緯圈方向上具有足夠之伸度者。並且,基於該圓編織物製成之衣物成為穿著感良好者。When the circular knit fabric of the embodiment has such a knitting density, it has sufficient elongation in the warp and weft directions. In addition, clothing made based on the circular knit fabric becomes a well-dressed person.

其次,對實施形態之圓編織物中所使用之紗進行說明。首先,對彈性纖維紗進行說明。Next, the yarn used in the circular knitting of the embodiment will be described. First, the elastic fiber yarn will be described.

實施形態之圓編織物中所使用之彈性纖維紗之纖度為11~110dtex(分德士)。若彈性纖維紗之纖度為該範圍內,則圓編織物不易產生抽絲(run),且圓編織物成為於經圈方向及緯圈方向上具有足夠之伸度者。又,若彈性纖維紗之纖度為110dtex以下,則圓編織物不易產生被稱為「起卷」之現象(即彈性纖維紗較非彈性纖維紗更向線圈之外周側突出而出現於編織物表面,從而有損圓編織物之外觀之現象,若為良品,則非彈性纖維紗較彈性纖維紗更向線圈之外周側突出而出現於編織物表面)。The elastic fiber yarn used in the circular knitting of the embodiment has a fineness of 11 to 110 dtex (cents). If the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn is within this range, the circular knit fabric is less likely to run, and the circular knit fabric has sufficient elongation in the warp and weft directions. Also, if the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn is 110 dtex or less, the phenomenon of "winding" is less likely to occur in the circular knit fabric (that is, the elastic fiber yarn protrudes more toward the outer peripheral side of the loop than the non-elastic fiber yarn and appears on the surface of the knitted fabric Therefore, if the appearance of the circular knitted fabric is impaired, if it is a good product, the non-elastic fiber yarn protrudes to the outer peripheral side of the loop more than the elastic fiber yarn and appears on the surface of the knitted fabric).

更理想之彈性纖維紗之纖度為15~33dtex。若彈性纖維紗之纖度為該範圍內,則進一步不易產生抽絲及起卷,且圓編織物成為於經圈方向及緯圈方向具有足夠之伸度者。The more ideal elastic fiber yarn has a fineness of 15 to 33 dtex. If the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn is within this range, it is further less likely to cause spinning and winding, and the circular knit fabric has sufficient elongation in the warp and weft directions.

又,若彈性纖維紗之斷裂伸度為400%~1200%,則伸縮性優異,故而較理想。再者,斷裂伸度係藉由JIS-L-1013-1998之伸長率標準試驗之方法而測定之斷裂強度。進一步而言,彈性纖維紗較理想為於作為預定型時之溫度之195℃附近之溫度下伸縮性不受損。In addition, if the elongation at break of the elastic fiber yarn is 400% to 1200%, the stretchability is excellent, which is preferable. Furthermore, the elongation at break is the breaking strength measured by the method of the standard test for elongation of JIS-L-1013-1998. Furthermore, it is preferable that the elastic fiber yarn is not damaged at a temperature around 195° C. which is the temperature at the time of the predetermined type.

彈性纖維紗具體而言為聚胺基甲酸酯系彈性纖維紗。作為聚胺基甲酸酯系彈性纖維紗,宜為聚醚系胺基甲酸酯彈性紗,亦可為聚醚酯系彈性紗等。The elastic fiber yarn is specifically a polyurethane elastic fiber yarn. As the polyurethane-based elastic fiber yarn, a polyether-based urethane elastic yarn is preferred, and a polyether-ester-based elastic yarn may also be used.

作為聚胺基甲酸酯系彈性纖維紗,例如可使用進行乾式紡絲或熔融紡絲而成者。又,聚胺基甲酸酯系彈性纖維紗之聚合物及紡絲方法並無限定。As the polyurethane elastic fiber yarn, for example, one obtained by dry spinning or melt spinning can be used. In addition, the polymer and spinning method of the polyurethane elastic fiber yarn are not limited.

其次,對實施形態之圓編織物中所使用之非彈性纖維紗進行說明。Next, the non-elastic fiber yarn used in the circular knitting of the embodiment will be described.

實施形態之圓編織物中所使用之非彈性纖維紗之纖度為11~110dtex。若非彈性纖維紗之纖度為該範圍內,則圓編織物不易產生抽絲,且圓編織物成為於經圈方向及緯圈方向上具有足夠之伸度者。又,若纖度為11dtex以上,則圓編織物不易產生起卷。The inelastic fiber yarn used in the circular knitting of the embodiment has a fineness of 11 to 110 dtex. If the fineness of the non-elastic fiber yarn is within this range, the circular knit fabric is less likely to be drawn, and the circular knit fabric has sufficient elongation in the warp and weft directions. In addition, if the fineness is 11 dtex or more, the circular knit fabric is less likely to curl.

更理想之非彈性纖維紗之纖度為17~33dtex。若非彈性纖維紗之纖度為該範圍內,則進一步不易產生抽絲及起卷,且圓編織物成為於經圈方向及緯圈方向上具有足夠之伸度者。A more ideal non-elastic fiber yarn has a fineness of 17 to 33 dtex. If the fineness of the non-elastic fiber yarn is within this range, it is further less likely to cause spinning and winding, and the circular knit fabric has sufficient elongation in the warp and weft directions.

實施形態之圓編織物中所使用之非彈性纖維紗可為長絲紗及短纖維紡紗中之任一者。作為長絲紗,較理想為由黏液嫘縈、銅氨嫘縈、乙酸纖維、聚醯胺纖維、聚酯纖維、聚對苯二甲酸丙二酯纖維、丙烯酸系纖維、聚丙烯纖維、氯乙烯纖維等化學合成纖維等所構成者,作為纖維之形態,可為未實施加工之原紗、假撚加工紗、色紗等中之任一者,亦可為該等之複合紗。作為短纖維紡紗,較理想為使用由棉紗、羊毛、麻等天然纖維、黏液嫘縈、銅氨嫘縈、乙酸纖維、聚醯胺纖維、聚酯纖維、丙烯酸系纖維、聚丙烯纖維、氯乙烯纖維等化學合成纖維所構成之短纖維者,該等可為單一物質或經混紡而成者中之任一者。The non-elastic fiber yarn used in the circular knitting of the embodiment may be any of filament yarn and short fiber spinning. As a filament yarn, it is preferably made of mucous rayon, copper ammonia rayon, acetate fiber, polyamide fiber, polyester fiber, polytrimethylene terephthalate fiber, acrylic fiber, polypropylene fiber, vinyl chloride The fiber and other chemical synthetic fibers may be any one of unprocessed raw yarn, false-twisted yarn, colored yarn, etc., or may be a composite yarn thereof. As staple fiber spinning, it is more desirable to use natural fibers such as cotton yarn, wool, hemp, mucilage rayon, cuprammonium rayon, acetate fiber, polyamide fiber, polyester fiber, acrylic fiber, polypropylene fiber, chlorine For short fibers composed of chemical fibers such as ethylene fibers, these may be any of a single substance or blended fibers.

又,作為實施形態之圓編織物中所使用之非彈性纖維紗,宜為使用至少兩種光澤及/或纖度不同之非彈性紗。於作為非彈性纖維紗使用兩種纖度不同之非彈性紗之情形時,其纖度比宜為1:0.5~1:4。In addition, as the non-elastic fiber yarn used in the circular knitting of the embodiment, at least two types of non-elastic yarns having different gloss and/or fineness are preferably used. When two types of non-elastic yarns with different deniers are used as the non-elastic fiber yarns, the fineness ratio is preferably 1:0.5 to 1:4.

又,關於實施形態之圓編織物中所使用之紗,彈性纖維紗之纖度:非彈性纖維紗之纖度為1:0.3~1:4.5。作為更理想之比率,彈性纖維紗之纖度:非彈性纖維紗之纖度為1:0.5~1:1.5。又,作為更理想之形態,於彈性纖維紗之纖度為11~110dtex且非彈性纖維紗之纖度為11~110dtex之條件下,彈性纖維紗之纖度:非彈性纖維紗之纖度為1:0.3~1:4.5(或1:0.5~1:1.5)。In addition, regarding the yarn used in the circular knitting of the embodiment, the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn: the fineness of the non-elastic fiber yarn is 1:0.3 to 1:4.5. As a more ideal ratio, the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn: the fineness of the non-elastic fiber yarn is 1:0.5 to 1:1.5. Furthermore, as a more ideal form, under the condition that the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn is 11 to 110 dtex and the fineness of the non-elastic fiber yarn is 11 to 110 dtex, the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn: the fineness of the non-elastic fiber yarn is 1: 0.3 to 1: 4.5 (or 1: 0.5 to 1: 1.5).

又,實施形態之圓編織物中所使用之紗之總纖度(即將非彈性纖維紗之纖度與彈性纖維紗之纖度相加所得之纖度)較理想為22~310dtex,更理想為22~122dtex。In addition, the total fineness of the yarn used in the circular knitting of the embodiment (that is, the fineness obtained by adding the fineness of the non-elastic fiber yarn and the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn) is preferably 22 to 310 dtex, more preferably 22 to 122 dtex.

其次,對實施形態之圓編織物中之上述以外之特徵進行說明。Next, the features other than the above in the circular knitting of the embodiment will be described.

實施形態之圓編織物係14.7N/2.54cm之負荷條件下之經圈方向及緯圈方向之伸度分別為100~280%,14.7N/2.54cm之負荷條件下之伸度比即(經圈方向之伸度)÷(緯圈方向之伸度)為0.5~2.0。The circular knitting fabric of the embodiment is 100 to 280% in the warp and weft directions under a 14.7N/2.54cm load condition, and the elongation ratio under the 14.7N/2.54cm load condition is (warp The elongation in the loop direction) ÷ (the elongation in the weft direction) is 0.5 to 2.0.

藉由伸度為100%以上,使用該圓編織物之衣物成為貼合身體,且不感覺到緊繃感,從而穿著感良好者。又,藉由伸度為100%以上,而於穿脫使用圓編織物之衣物時無需多餘之力氣。又,藉由伸度為280%以下,而抑制彈性纖維紗之伸縮疲勞,維持耐久性,且確保布料之強度。又,藉由伸度比為0.5~2.0,使用圓編織物之衣物成為穿著感等優異者。With an elongation of 100% or more, the clothing using the circular knit fabric becomes fit to the body without feeling tight, and thus has a good wearing feeling. Also, with an elongation of 100% or more, there is no need for extra effort when putting on or taking off clothing that uses circular knits. In addition, with an elongation of 280% or less, the elastic fatigue of the elastic fiber yarn is suppressed, the durability is maintained, and the strength of the cloth is ensured. In addition, with an elongation ratio of 0.5 to 2.0, clothing using a circular knit fabric becomes excellent in wearing and the like.

14.7N/2.54cm之負荷條件下之經圈方向及緯圈方向之伸度之更理想之範圍分別為120~250%。又,14.7N/2.54cm之負荷條件下之伸度比之更理想之範圍為0.8~1.2。若伸度或伸度比為該等範圍內,則使用圓編織物之衣物之穿著感良好等效果進一步變大。The more ideal ranges of the elongation in the warp and weft directions under the load condition of 14.7N/2.54cm are 120-250%, respectively. In addition, the elongation ratio under a load condition of 14.7 N/2.54 cm is more preferably 0.8 to 1.2. If the elongation or elongation ratio is within these ranges, the effect of the clothing using the circular knit fabric is good, and the effect becomes larger.

此處,本發明中之所謂伸度,係指依據JIS-L-1096之伸長率試驗B法(定負荷法)對寬度2.54cm之試片進行測定時之伸度。又,14.7N/2.54cm此負荷條件再現了普通人穿著衣物進行日常生活上之動作時對衣物負載之負荷之條件。再者,所謂14.7N/2.54cm,意指對寬度2.54cm之試片負載14.7N之負荷。Here, the "elongation" in the present invention refers to the elongation when a test piece having a width of 2.54 cm is measured in accordance with the elongation test B method (constant load method) of JIS-L-1096. In addition, the load condition of 14.7N/2.54cm reproduces the condition of the load on the clothes when ordinary people wear clothes to perform daily activities. In addition, the so-called 14.7N/2.54cm means that the test piece with a width of 2.54cm is loaded with 14.7N.

又,實施形態之圓編織物較理想為22.1N/2.54cm之負荷條件下之經圈方向及緯圈方向之伸度分別為120~300%,22.1N/2.54cm之負荷條件下之伸度比即(經圈方向之伸度)÷(緯圈方向之伸度)為0.5~2.0。22.1N/2.54cm之負荷條件下之經圈方向及緯圈方向之伸度之更理想之範圍分別為140~270%。又,22.1N/2.54cm之負荷條件下之伸度比之更理想之範圍為0.8~1.2。In addition, the circular knit fabric of the embodiment is preferably an elongation in the warp and weft directions under a load condition of 22.1 N/2.54 cm of 120 to 300%, and an elongation under a load condition of 22.1 N/2.54 cm, respectively. The ratio (elongation in the warp direction) ÷ (elongation in the weft direction) is 0.5 to 2.0. The more ideal ranges of the elongation in the warp and weft directions under a load condition of 22.1 N/2.54 cm are 140~270%. In addition, the elongation ratio under a load condition of 22.1 N/2.54 cm is more preferably 0.8 to 1.2.

此處,22.1N/2.54cm此負荷條件再現了普通人進行如將衣物最大限度繃緊之動作時對衣物負載之負荷之條件。再者,所謂22.1N/2.54cm,意指對寬度2.54cm之試片負載22.1N之負荷。Here, the load condition of 22.1N/2.54cm reproduces the condition of the load on the clothes when an ordinary person performs an action such as maximally tightening the clothes. In addition, the so-called 22.1N/2.54cm means that a test piece with a width of 2.54cm is loaded with 22.1N.

其次,對實施形態之圓編織物之製造裝置及製造方法之一例進行說明。Next, an example of the manufacturing apparatus and manufacturing method of the circular knit fabric of the embodiment will be described.

實施形態之圓編織物之製造裝置能夠進行對每個紗圈位置賦予織圈、集圈及浮線之變化之提花編織,且藉由能夠進行高密度之編織之圓編機、與能夠針對組織之每個種類使給紗量變化之電性控制式給紗裝置之組合來實現。The manufacturing apparatus of the circular knit fabric of the embodiment can perform jacquard knitting that imparts changes in knitting loops, tucks, and floats to each yarn loop position, and by a circular knitting machine capable of high-density knitting, and capable of targeting tissues Each type realizes the combination of the electrically controlled yarn feeding device that changes the yarn feeding amount.

圓編機係具有針筒側與針盤側之雙針床之圓編機(所謂之雙面針織圓編機)中之針筒側之織針與針盤側之織針之位置偏移了織針行之半間距量者(成為所謂之「羅紋相交」者)。又,圓編機具有用以進行提花編織之電性控制式選針機構。又,為了可進行高密度編織,圓編機之機號數較理想為32~40機號,進一步理想為36~40機號。The circular knitting machine is a circular knitting machine with a double needle bed on the cylinder side and the dial side (the so-called double-sided knitting circular knitting machine). The positions of the knitting needles on the cylinder side and the needles on the dial side are offset. The amount of half-pitch of the knitting needle row (becomes the so-called "rib intersecting"). In addition, the circular knitting machine has an electrically controlled needle selection mechanism for jacquard knitting. In addition, in order to enable high-density weaving, the number of circular knitting machines is preferably 32 to 40, and further preferably 36 to 40.

此處,形成織圈、集圈及浮線所需之給紗量各不相同。因此,為了進行賦予織圈、集圈及浮線之變化之提花編織,而使用能夠針對每種組織供給適當之紗量者作為給紗裝置。Here, the amount of yarn feed required to form the knitting loops, tuck loops and floats varies. Therefore, in order to perform jacquard knitting that imparts changes in knitting loops, tucks, and floats, a yarn feeder that can supply an appropriate amount of yarn for each type of tissue is used.

具體而言,給紗裝置具有對朝圓編機供給之紗之張力進行監視之監視裝置(例如荷重元)。進一步而言,給紗裝置具有控制裝置,其根據監視裝置所檢測之紗之張力來調整給紗量以使紗之張力保持固定,依此方式進行控制。藉由進行控制使紗之張力保持固定,即便組織發生變化,亦可穩定地供給適合該組織之紗量。此種給紗裝置用於非彈性纖維紗及彈性纖維紗兩者之給紗。Specifically, the yarn feeding device includes a monitoring device (for example, a load cell) that monitors the tension of the yarn supplied to the circular knitting machine. Further, the yarn feeding device has a control device that adjusts the yarn feeding amount according to the tension of the yarn detected by the monitoring device to keep the tension of the yarn fixed, and performs control in this manner. By controlling the yarn tension to be fixed, even if the structure changes, the amount of yarn suitable for the structure can be stably supplied. This yarn feeding device is used to feed both non-elastic fiber yarns and elastic fiber yarns.

使用此種圓編機之製造裝置而編織上述實施形態之圓編織物。此時,於將非彈性纖維紗及彈性纖維紗分別以滿穿之方式給紗並併排整齊後,進行添紗編織。又,圓編織物之表裡2層之底組織係藉由圓編機之針盤側與針筒側之雙針床分別編織。此時,進行提花編織,形成織圈以及集圈及/或浮線。作為一例,針盤側之織針於所有紗圈位置處編織織圈,針筒側之織針被有規律地控制,而於特定之紗圈位置處編織織圈,於其他特定之紗圈位置處編織集圈及/或浮線。Using the manufacturing apparatus of such a circular knitting machine, the circular knitted fabric of the above embodiment is knitted. At this time, after the non-elastic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn are respectively fed in a full-threading manner and arranged side by side, the yarn is added and knitted. In addition, the bottom structure of the two layers on the front and back of the circular knit fabric is knitted separately by the double needle bed on the dial side and the cylinder side of the circular knitting machine. At this time, jacquard weaving is performed to form a knitting loop and a tuck stitch and/or a floating thread. As an example, the knitting needles on the dial side knit the knitting loops at all the yarn loop positions, the knitting needles on the cylinder side are regularly controlled, and the knitting loops at the specific yarn loop position, at other specific yarn loop positions Weave tucks and/or floats.

此處,作為編織具有透明感之圓編織物之方法之一例,使自奇數送料機與偶數送料機供給之紗之纖度比率變高(例如將自另一者送料機供給之紗之纖度相對於自一者送料機供給之紗之纖度的比率設為40%以下或140%以上)。然後,一邊利用纖度較大之紗編織圓編織物整體,一邊利用纖度較小之紗編織欲作為透光部之部分,藉此可獲得局部形成有透光部之具有透明感之圓編織物。Here, as an example of a method of knitting a circular knit fabric having a transparent feeling, the fineness ratio of the yarn supplied from the odd-numbered feeder and the even-numbered feeder is increased (for example, the fineness of the yarn supplied from the other feeder is (The ratio of the fineness of the yarn supplied from one feeder is set to 40% or less or 140% or more). Then, while weaving the entire circular knit fabric with a yarn with a larger fineness, and weaving a portion to be used as a light-transmitting portion with a yarn with a smaller fineness, a transparent circular knit fabric with a light-transmitting portion partially formed can be obtained.

又,作為編織具有透明感之圓編織物之方法之另一例,藉由根據欲表現之設計將集圈、浮線及織圈有規律地組合,可獲得利用集圈特有之透明感且整體亦具有透明感之圓編織物。為了實現該等例,重要的是使用上述具有電性控制式選針機構之圓編機及電性控制式給紗裝置。In addition, as another example of a method of weaving a circular knit fabric with a transparent feeling, by regularly combining tuckers, floats, and knitting loops according to the design to be expressed, a unique sense of transparency using the tuckers can be obtained and the overall Transparent round braid. In order to realize these examples, it is important to use the above-mentioned circular knitting machine with electrically controlled needle selection mechanism and electrically controlled yarn feeder.

於該編織中,前述給紗裝置係以一邊監視所供給之非彈性纖維紗及彈性纖維紗之張力並一邊使該張力保持固定之方式來調整給紗量。藉此進行適合各組織之給紗。In this knitting, the yarn feeding device adjusts the yarn feeding amount while monitoring the tension of the supplied non-elastic fiber yarn and elastic fiber yarn while keeping the tension constant. With this, yarn feeding suitable for each organization is performed.

對於所完成之胚布,例如進行開纖、精練、預定型(乾熱定型)、染色、樹脂加工等精加工、乾燥、最終定型。經過該等步驟而完成之圓編織物之編織密度為上述最終之編織密度。For the finished fabric, for example, finishing, drying, final setting such as opening, scouring, pre-setting (dry heat setting), dyeing, resin processing, etc. The knitting density of the circular knit fabric completed through these steps is the above-mentioned final knitting density.

所完成之圓編織物經由裁斷或縫製等步驟,成為衣物等製品。作為衣物,例如可列舉內衣、休閒服及運動服。衣物整體可由該圓編織物所構成,亦可僅對衣物之一部分使用該圓編織物。The finished circular knit fabric becomes garments and other products through steps such as cutting or sewing. Examples of clothing include underwear, casual wear, and sportswear. The whole garment may be composed of the circular knit, or the circular knit may be used for only a part of the garment.

其次,對實施例及比較例進行說明。Next, Examples and Comparative Examples will be described.

進行下述實施例及比較例之圓編織物之評價。評價項目及評價方法如下述(1)~(3)所述。 (1)伸度之評價Evaluation of the circular knit fabrics of the following examples and comparative examples was carried out. The evaluation items and evaluation methods are as described in (1) to (3) below. (1) Evaluation of elongation

準備3片縱向(經圈方向)上為16cm且橫向(緯圈方向)上為2.54cm之試片作為經圈方向之伸度之試片,又,準備3片縱向上為2.54cm且橫向上為16cm之試片作為緯圈方向之伸度之試片。於測定中使用定速伸長型拉伸試驗機(Autograph,島津製作所(股)製造,AG-500D)。使用試片夾持部為齒形形狀之夾頭夾具,設為上部夾持長度2.5cm、下部夾持長度3.5cm、夾頭間隔10cm、試片固持壓力490kPa。然後,將拉伸速度設為30cm/分鐘,測定14.7N負荷時之伸度。於測定後算出3片試片之伸度之平均值。 (2)伸度比Prepare 3 test strips with a length of 16 cm in the longitudinal direction (warp direction) and 2.54 cm in the horizontal direction (weft direction) as the test pieces for the elongation in the warp direction. In addition, prepare 3 test pieces with a longitudinal length of 2.54 cm and the horizontal direction The 16cm test piece is used as the test piece in the direction of the weft circle. A constant-speed tensile tester (Autograph, manufactured by Shimadzu Corporation, AG-500D) was used for the measurement. A chuck jig with a test piece holding part in a tooth shape was used, and the upper holding length was 2.5 cm, the lower holding length was 3.5 cm, the chuck interval was 10 cm, and the test piece holding pressure was 490 kPa. Then, the stretching speed was set to 30 cm/min, and the elongation under a load of 14.7 N was measured. After the measurement, the average value of the elongation of the three test pieces was calculated. (2) Elongation ratio

基於上述伸長率之測定結果根據如下式算出。 伸度比=(經圈方向之伸度)÷(緯圈方向之伸度) (3)抽絲之評價The measurement result based on the above elongation is calculated according to the following formula. Elongation ratio = (elongation in warp direction) ÷ (extension in weft direction) (3) Evaluation of thread drawing

自圓編織物之編織結束端沿縱向切出切口,用指甲捋切口附近之紗圈,目視評價有無抽絲之產生。將評價結果如下所述般以○×進行表示。 ○:自切口端起無抽絲之產生 ×:自切口端起有抽絲之產生 (4)編織花紋之評價Cut the longitudinal end of the braided end of the self-knitted fabric into the longitudinal direction, and use your fingernail to pluck the yarn circle near the incision to visually evaluate the occurrence of threading. The evaluation results are shown as ○× as follows. ○: No threading occurs from the cut end ×: There is threading from the cut end (4) Evaluation of woven patterns

評價有無基於織圈、集圈及浮線之不同的編織花紋。 (5)編織品質之評價Evaluate the presence or absence of different weave patterns based on loops, tucks and floats. (5) Evaluation of weaving quality

以目視評價編織品質(主要是有無起卷)。將評價結果如下所述般以○×進行表示。 ○:編織品質良好 ×:編織品質欠佳 (實施例1)Visually evaluate the weaving quality (mainly the presence or absence of winding). The evaluation results are shown as ○× as follows. ○: Good weaving quality ×: Poor weaving quality (Example 1)

使用福原精機製作所(股)製造之雙面針織圓編機M-LEC7BSD(38英吋直徑,36機號)作為編織機。又,使用義大利LGL公司製造之E-COMPACT ATTIVO與SPINI作為給紗裝置。使用該給紗裝置,將22dtex20f之尼龍長絲紗與22dtex之聚胺基甲酸酯紗(Asahi Kasei(股)製造 ROICA(註冊商標)C805)自同一送料機同時供紗至針盤及針筒兩面之針,使尼龍長絲紗出現於編織物兩側之表面並使聚胺基甲酸酯紗配置於其內側,從而編織以1×1羅紋提花編織組織作為基本組織之圓編織物(雙面針織)。再者,尼龍長絲紗及聚胺基甲酸酯紗係以滿穿之方式給紗。又,將織圈設為全組織中之50%。The double-sided knitting circular knitting machine M-LEC7BSD (38 inch diameter, 36 gauge) manufactured by Fukuhara Seiki Co., Ltd. was used as the knitting machine. In addition, E-COMPACT ATTIVO and SPINI manufactured by LGL Italy were used as the yarn feeder. Using this yarn feeding device, 22dtex 20f nylon filament yarn and 22dtex polyurethane yarn (ROICA (registered trademark) C805 manufactured by Asahi Kasei Co., Ltd.) were simultaneously fed from the same feeder to the dial and the cylinder The needles on both sides make the nylon filament yarn appear on the surface of both sides of the braid and arrange the polyurethane yarn on the inner side, thereby weaving a circular knit fabric with a 1×1 rib jacquard weave as the basic structure (double Knitting). Furthermore, nylon filament yarn and polyurethane yarn are used to give the yarn in a full-threaded manner. Also, set the woven loop to 50% of the whole organization.

對所編織成之圓編織物進行精練,然後製作苯磺酸鈉4.0重量%、作為非揮發性酸之酒石酸1.0重量%、作為螯合劑之EDTA0.1重量%之水溶液,在該常溫處理液中浸漬5秒後,於溫度195℃乾熱定型1分鐘。然後,使用Aminyl Yellow FD-3RL(住友化學工業(股)製造)0.3%o.w.f.(按織物重)、Aminyl Red FD-GL(住友化學工業(股)製造)0.3%o.w.f.、Aminyl Blue FD-GL(住友化學工業(股)製造)0.3%o.w.f.作為染料,藉由噴射式染色機於100℃以通常配方進行染色。然後進行最終定型,獲得精加工密度為130緯圈/2.54cm、73經圈/2.54cm之圓編織物。 (實施例2)After refining the woven circular knit fabric, an aqueous solution of 4.0% by weight of sodium benzenesulfonate, 1.0% by weight of tartaric acid as a non-volatile acid, and 0.1% by weight of EDTA as a chelating agent was prepared in the normal temperature treatment liquid After immersion for 5 seconds, dry heat was set at a temperature of 195°C for 1 minute. Then, use Aminyl Yellow FD-3RL (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.) 0.3% owf (by fabric weight), Aminyl Red FD-GL (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.) 0.3% owf, Aminyl Blue FD-GL ( (Sumitomo Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.) 0.3% owf is used as a dye, and it is dyed by a jet dyeing machine at 100°C with the usual formula. Then the final setting is performed to obtain a round knitted fabric with a finishing density of 130 wefts/2.54cm and 73 warp/2.54cm. (Example 2)

將織圈之比率設為26%。關於其他,與實施例1時同樣地進行編織及加工。 (實施例3)Set the ratio of the loop to 26%. Regarding the others, knitting and processing were performed in the same manner as in Example 1. (Example 3)

將織圈之比率設為80%。關於其他,與實施例1時同樣地進行編織及加工。 (比較例1)Set the loop ratio to 80%. Regarding the others, knitting and processing were performed in the same manner as in Example 1. (Comparative example 1)

將實施例1中之1×1羅紋編織變更為雙羅紋編織(為將1×1羅紋編織重疊兩層之編織,亦稱為平滑編織)。織圈之比率為100%。關於其他,與實施例1時同樣地進行編織及加工。 (比較例2)The 1×1 rib knitting in Example 1 was changed to double rib knitting (knitting that overlaps the 1×1 rib knitting by two layers, also known as smooth knitting). The ratio of the loop is 100%. Regarding the others, knitting and processing were performed in the same manner as in Example 1. (Comparative example 2)

不利用尼龍長絲紗與聚胺基甲酸酯紗進行添紗編織,僅使用將77dtex36f之尼龍長絲紗包覆於22dtex之聚胺基甲酸酯紗而成之包覆紗進行編織。關於其他,與實施例1時同樣地進行編織及加工。It does not use nylon filament yarn and polyurethane yarn for weaving, but only uses 77dtex36f nylon filament yarn to cover 22dtex polyurethane yarn. Regarding the others, knitting and processing were performed in the same manner as in Example 1.

將以上實施例及比較例之評價結果示於表1及表2。再者,表1及表2中之「1×1羅紋編織」、「聚胺基甲酸酯紗為滿穿」及「添紗編織」項目中之○意指進行了該項目之記載事項,×意指未進行。 [表1]

Figure 108121118-A0304-0001
[表2]
Figure 108121118-A0304-0002
The evaluation results of the above examples and comparative examples are shown in Table 1 and Table 2. In addition, ○ in the items “1×1 rib knitting”, “polyurethane yarn is fully worn” and “adding yarn knitting” in Tables 1 and 2 means that the items described in this item have been performed, × means not proceeding. [Table 1]
Figure 108121118-A0304-0001
[Table 2]
Figure 108121118-A0304-0002

1:圓編織物 2:厚布部分 3:薄布部分 4:非彈性纖維紗 5:彈性纖維紗1: Round braid 2: Thick cloth part 3: Thin cloth part 4: Non-elastic fiber yarn 5: Elastic fiber yarn

圖1係表示1×1羅紋編織組織之圖。該圖中之所有組織為織圈。Fig. 1 is a diagram showing a 1×1 rib weave. All organizations in this figure are woven loops.

圖2係表示集圈之圖。Figure 2 is a diagram showing tucks.

圖3係表示浮線之圖。Fig. 3 is a diagram showing a floating line.

圖4係自與圓編織物之表面垂直之方向觀察圓編織物所得之圖。Fig. 4 is a view of the circular braid viewed from a direction perpendicular to the surface of the circular braid.

1:圓編織物 1: Round braid

2:厚布部分 2: Thick cloth part

3:薄布部分 3: Thin cloth part

Claims (6)

一種圓編織物,係以1×1羅紋提花編織組織作為基本組織者,其特徵在於: 其係將非彈性纖維紗及彈性纖維紗分別以滿穿之方式給紗,進行添紗編織者, 織圈佔全組織中之10~90%,並包含集圈及浮線中之至少任一者,隨部位所產生之組織差異在編織物表面形成編織花紋, 14.7N/2.54cm之負荷條件下之經圈方向及緯圈方向之伸度分別為100~280%, 14.7N/2.54cm之負荷條件下之伸度比即(經圈方向之伸度)÷(緯圈方向之伸度)為0.5~2.0。A round braid with a 1×1 rib jacquard weave as the basic organizer, characterized by: It is a person who adds non-elastic fiber yarns and elastic fiber yarns to the yarn in a full-through manner and adds yarn to the knitting. The woven loops account for 10 to 90% of the entire structure, and include at least any one of the tucks and floats. The woven pattern is formed on the surface of the woven fabric according to the structural difference generated by the parts. The extension of the warp and weft directions under the load condition of 14.7N/2.54cm is 100~280%, The elongation ratio under the load condition of 14.7N/2.54cm, ie (elongation in the warp direction) ÷ (elongation in the weft direction) is 0.5 to 2.0. 如請求項1之圓編織物,其最終之編織密度為105緯圈/2.54cm以上且48經圈/2.54cm以上。If the circular knit fabric of claim 1, its final knitting density is 105 weft loops/2.54cm or more and 48 warp loops/2.54cm or more. 如請求項1或2之圓編織物,其彈性纖維紗之纖度為11~110dtex,非彈性纖維紗之纖度為11~110dtex, 彈性纖維紗之纖度:非彈性纖維紗之纖度為1:0.3~1:4.5。If the circular knit fabric of claim 1 or 2, the fineness of the elastic fiber yarn is 11~110dtex, and the fineness of the non-elastic fiber yarn is 11~110dtex, The fineness of elastic fiber yarn: The fineness of non-elastic fiber yarn is 1:0.3~1:4.5. 如請求項1或2之圓編織物,其中使用至少兩種非彈性紗作為前述非彈性纖維紗。The circular knit fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein at least two kinds of non-elastic yarns are used as the aforementioned non-elastic fiber yarns. 如請求項4之圓編織物,其中使用纖度不同之兩種非彈性紗作為前述非彈性纖維紗,其纖度比為1:0.5~1:4。The round knit fabric of claim 4, wherein two types of non-elastic yarns with different deniers are used as the aforementioned non-elastic yarns, and the denier ratio is 1:0.5 to 1:4. 一種圓編織物之製造方法,該圓編織物係以1×1羅紋提花編織組織作為基本組織進行編織者,該製造方法之特徵在於: 將非彈性纖維紗及彈性纖維紗分別以滿穿之方式給紗,進行添紗編織,並同時 將全組織中之10~90%設為織圈,形成集圈及浮線中之至少任一者,藉由隨部位所產生之組織差異而在編織物表面形成編織花紋, 於前述非彈性纖維紗及彈性纖維紗各自之給紗中,係以一邊監視所供給之紗之張力並一邊使該張力保持固定之方式來調整給紗量。A method for manufacturing a circular knit fabric, which is a knitting process using a 1×1 rib jacquard weave as a basic structure. The method is characterized by: The non-elastic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn are respectively fed to the yarn in a full-through mode, and the yarn is woven and added at the same time Set 10 to 90% of the whole structure as a knitting loop to form at least one of a tuck and a floating thread, and form a knitting pattern on the surface of the knitting fabric by the tissue difference caused by the part, In the yarn feeding of the non-elastic fiber yarn and the elastic fiber yarn, the yarn feeding amount is adjusted in such a manner that the tension of the supplied yarn is monitored while the tension is kept constant.
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