JP2004115955A - Circular knitted fabric of three-layer structure - Google Patents

Circular knitted fabric of three-layer structure Download PDF

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Publication number
JP2004115955A
JP2004115955A JP2002280459A JP2002280459A JP2004115955A JP 2004115955 A JP2004115955 A JP 2004115955A JP 2002280459 A JP2002280459 A JP 2002280459A JP 2002280459 A JP2002280459 A JP 2002280459A JP 2004115955 A JP2004115955 A JP 2004115955A
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Japan
Prior art keywords
knitted fabric
yarn
elastic
fabric
elastic yarn
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JP2002280459A
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Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Yuji Yoshida
吉田 裕司
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Asahi Kasei Corp
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Asahi Kasei Fibers Corp
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Priority to JP2002280459A priority Critical patent/JP2004115955A/en
Publication of JP2004115955A publication Critical patent/JP2004115955A/en
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Abstract

<P>PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To provide a circular knitted fabric having favorable fittedness and shape retainability when worn despite having good stretch property. <P>SOLUTION: The circular knitted fabric of three-layer structure is such one that obverse and reverse two sheets of elastic yarn-containing ground knitted fabrics are joined to each other via joining yarns. This circular knitted fabric is ≥50% in elastic recovery percentage of elongation. <P>COPYRIGHT: (C)2004,JPO

Description

【0001】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、表裏二枚の地編地を連結糸で連結して構成された立体構造を有する三層構造丸編地に関するものである。
【0002】
【従来の技術】
表裏二枚の地編地と、これらを接合するつなぎ糸(連結糸)により構成される立体構造を有する丸編地は、衣料用及び産業資材用として用いられている。この丸編地の場合、表面、裏面及び連結糸ともに、通常の糸(フィラメント、仮撚糸、紡績糸等の一般に使用される糸)が用いられてきたが、高機能な衣料用として使用するために、立体構造編地に伸縮性を持たせようとする試みがなされ、各種の方法で良好な伸縮性を有する立体構造編地が得られている。
【0003】
しかし、近年、例えば、インナー分野、スポーツ分野など、よりフィッティング性と保型性が求められる分野の生地では、従来の伸縮性を有する立体構造編地では伸びはあるものの伸張回復性に劣り、良好なフィッティング性と美しい保型性は得られないという問題があった。従来技術の例として、表裏両面の地編地が非弾性糸と破断伸度250%以上の弾性糸とを引き揃えて製編された、抗スナッギング性に優れた三層構造編地が提案されている(例えば、特許文献1参照)。しかし、この編地は、確かに抗スナッギング性には効果があるがフィッティング性と保型性は不十分で、着用時に快適な着用感が得られない。
このように、従来の伸縮性を有する立体構造編地には、良好なフィッティング感と保型性を備える立体構造編地はなかった。
【0004】
【特許文献1】
特許第3145209号公報
【0005】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
本発明の目的は、優れた伸縮特性を持ちながら、着用時に良好なフィッティング性と、保型性を有する三層構造丸編地を提供することである。
【0006】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明者は、伸張時の伸張回復性をより向上させる方法について種々検討した結果、本発明に至ったものである。すなわち、本発明は、表裏二枚の弾性糸を含有する地編地を連結糸で連結してなる三層構造丸編地であって、伸張回復率が50%以上であることを特徴とする三層構造丸編地である。
【0007】
【発明の実施の形態】
以下、本発明を詳細に説明する。
三層構造丸編地を使用した衣服等、幅広い面積をもった生地の伸張回復性については、5cm程度の細い巾の生地による伸張回復性とは異なり、複雑な生地の伸張時挙動を示し、この複雑な生地挙動を解明した結果本発明に至ったものであり、すなわち伸張回復性の評価方法と生地開発、さらに特定の組織との組み合わせにより本発明の目的が達成できたもので、公知の生地では全く達成できないものである。
本発明の三層構造丸編地は、表面と裏面の地編地に弾性糸を含有しており、弾性糸としては、弾性糸の裸糸、あるいは被覆弾性糸でもよいが、弾性糸の裸糸を表面、および裏面ともに含有している方が本発明の目的を達成するのに適している。また、地編地の組織を天竺編みとし、連結糸により連結することにより本発明の目的を達成することができる。
【0008】
弾性糸の裸糸を含有させる方法としては、弾性糸と非弾性糸とを引き揃え、あるいは添え糸編みにより編成すればよく、被覆弾性糸を含有させる場合には、非弾性糸と被覆弾性糸とを引き揃え、あるいは添え糸編みにより含有させる。また、弾性糸の裸糸と、被覆弾性糸が地編地中に混在していても良く、表面と裏面の弾性糸の含有方法が異なっていてもよい。例えば、片面には弾性糸の裸糸を含有し、他面には被覆弾性糸を含有する三層構造丸編地とすることができる。
本発明において、表面と裏面の地編地の組織については、天竺編が好ましく、また、表面と裏面の地編地を連結する組織については、タック組織により表面と裏面を連結することが好ましい。
【0009】
弾性糸の交編状態については任意な状態が選定できるが、好ましくは全コースとも含有しているのがよく、1〜2コース毎に含有されていてもよい。また、弾性糸の混率については、弾性丸編地として全体の3〜30重量%が好ましく、より好ましくは、5〜20重量%である。3重量%未満では伸縮性に劣る丸編地となる。また、弾性糸の混率が30重量%より多くなると、丸編地の収縮が大きくなり、風合いの硬い生地となりがちで好ましくない。また、表面と裏面のそれぞれの地編地中に含まれる弾性糸と非弾性糸との比率についても同様に、弾性糸の比率が3〜30重量%が好ましく、より好ましくは5〜20重量%であればよく、さらに、表面と裏面の弾性糸の含有量が同じでも、また異なっていても良く、表面と裏面の弾性糸の含有量が異なる場合はどちらが多くても本発明の目的は達成できる。
【0010】
本発明による弾性糸の裸糸とは、弾性糸をそのまま使用する状態であり、通常、非弾性糸と引き揃えや、添え糸編みにより編成される。また、非弾性糸と弾性糸との編成時における、弾性糸の給糸速度と非弾性糸の給糸速度との比であるドラフト率(ドラフト率=非弾性糸の給糸速度/弾性糸の給糸速度)についても任意に設定可能であるが、製編性を考慮すればドラフト率は、1.2〜4.0程度が好ましい。弾性糸の太さについては、弾性糸を裸糸として使用する場合はニットループが形成可能な太さであれば使用可能で、10〜160dtexが好ましく、より好ましくは20〜120dtex、特に好ましくは30〜80dtexである。
【0011】
また、被覆弾性糸とは、弾性糸を芯に、ポリエステル繊維、ナイロン繊維等のマルチフィラメント合成繊維等を鞘成分としてカバーリングした被覆弾性糸、FTY(フィラメント・ツイスト・ヤーン)、STY(スパン・ツイスト・ヤーン)、DCY(ダブル・ツイスト・ヤーン)、SCY(シングル・ツイスト・ヤーン)と称されるような被覆弾性糸、綿等の短繊維で被覆されたCSYと称される被覆弾性糸、さらには、非弾性糸と弾性糸とを撚糸した被覆弾性糸等が挙げられる。これらの被覆弾性糸のドラフト率(被覆弾性糸のドラフト率=被覆弾性糸を伸長したときの非弾性糸の長さ/伸張しない状態の弾性糸の長さ)についても任意なドラフト率が設定可能であり、1.2〜4.0程度の範囲内に設定することが好ましい。また、被覆弾性糸の使用する弾性糸の太さについてはとくに限定されないが、20〜160dtexが好ましく、非弾性糸との混率についても特に限定されないが、5〜70重量%程度が好ましく、製造したい編地により任意に選定できる。
【0012】
本発明において、弾性糸としては、ポリウレタン系、ポリエーテルエステル系等の弾性を有する糸が使用可能である。例えば、ポリウレタン系弾性糸として、乾式紡糸又は溶融紡糸したものが使用できる。弾性糸として用いるポリマーや紡糸方法には限定されない。弾性糸の破断伸度は400〜1000%が好ましい。さらに、伸縮性に優れ、染色加工時のプレセット工程の通常処理温度180℃近辺で伸縮性を損なわないことが好ましい。また、弾性糸に、抗菌性や、防臭、吸湿、吸水性等の機能性を付与した糸も使用可能である。
【0013】
本発明の表裏二枚の地編地に使用する弾性糸以外の糸、すなわち、非弾性糸にも何ら制限はなく、キュプラレーヨン、ビスコースレーヨン等の化学繊維、ポリエステル、ナイロン、アクリル、ポリトリメチレンテレフタレート等の合成繊維、また、綿、羊毛、麻、等の繊維が使用でき、特に、ポリエステル繊維やナイロン繊維を使用すれば、寸法安定性の良い衣料となる。吸水性や吸湿性を付与する場合には、綿、キュプラレーヨン、ビスコースレーヨン等の繊維を使用すればよい。2種以上の糸を混紡、混繊、交撚、又は編機上で交編する等により、混合して使用することもできる。
【0014】
さらに、表裏の地編地に使用する糸種を変えて表裏の機能が異なった編地とすることも可能で、例えば、表地編地にポリエステル繊維、裏地編地にキュプラレーヨンを使用すると、吸水性と速乾性に優れる弾性丸編地となる。また、表地編地に疎水性合成繊維、裏地編地に綿を使用し、表地編地に通常の撥水加工剤を用いて公知の方法で撥水処理すると、光沢があり、表撥水、裏吸湿機能を有する弾性編地が得られる。
使用する非弾性糸の糸形態も任意であり、フィラメント糸、仮撚り等の加工糸、スパン糸、異型断面糸等が使用できる。
これらの非弾性糸の太さは限定されないが、好ましくは20〜170dtex、綿番手では120〜30Sであり、より好ましくは、30〜110dtex、綿番手では100S〜50Sである。編地に薄地、軽量を求める場合にはなるべく細い糸使いとし、強度向上を求める場合には、なるべく太い糸使いとすればよい。
【0015】
本発明において、表裏二枚の地編地を連結する連結糸については、前記した任意の非弾性糸が使用できる他、弾性糸の使用も可能である。これらの連結糸の太さについても任意な太さの糸が使用でき、太い糸を使用するほど弾性丸編地の厚みが増し、編地の面方向の反発力が増す傾向となる。
本発明の三層構造丸編地は、二列針床を有するダブルの丸編機で編成することができる。編機のゲージは、使用目的によって適宜選定すればよく、18〜40ゲージが好ましい。歯口間隔は任意な間隔を選定でき、厚みの厚い編地が必要な場合には歯口を広く設定すればよい。弾性丸編地の厚みが、JIS−L−1018法による測定で0.5〜5mmであれば本発明の目的が達成しやすいため好ましい。三層構造丸編地の厚みが0.5mm未満の場合は、衣服とした場合は適度な保型性が得にくいことがあり、厚みが5mmを越えると、シワが発生することがある。
【0016】
これらにより得られた三層構造丸編地の生機は開反し、一般的な染色工程である、前処理した後、染色工程を経て、樹脂加工を含めた仕上げセットを行い、出来上がった生地を縫製して製品とすることが可能である。
本発明の三層構造丸編地は、着用時の複雑な生地の伸張時挙動を解明した結果本発明に至ったものであり、その生地評価方法、すなわち、一軸固定二軸伸張テストにより生地評価が可能であることを究明した。つまり、一軸固定二軸伸張試験機(STRIP BIAXIAL TENSILE TESTER KES−G2−SB1 カトーテック社製)により、生地の一方向を拘束して他方向の生地伸度を測定することにより、実用に即した伸度の測定が可能となる。なお、従来伸張性等の測定法は伸張方向のみを固定し、他の方向は拘束されていない状態で測定する方法であり、着用時における生地の伸張挙動を代用しているとは言い難い。
【0017】
本発明では、着用時を想定した評価方法を開発するとともに、着用快適性との関係も検討した結果、伸張回復率が50%以上であれば、快適な着用感が得られることを見出した。つまり、一軸固定二軸伸張試験機で50%まで生地を伸張し、その往路と復路の30%伸張時点での応力を測定し、この往路応力と復路応力との割合を伸張回復率とし、下記式によりこれを求め、生地のタテ方向とヨコ方向の平均で示す。本発明では該伸張回復率が50%以上であることが必要であり、伸張回復率が50%未満であれば、着用時のフィッティング感が優れず、また、好ましくは60%以上となるように生地を製造すれば、着用フィッティング性に優れ、保型性にも優れる快適な衣料となる。
伸張回復率=(復路30%伸張時応力/往路30%伸張時応力)×100
【0018】
このような伸張回復率が50%以上の三層構造丸編地を製造する方法としては、表裏二枚の弾性糸を含有する天竺組織による地編地を連結糸で連結してなる三層構造丸編地とし、かつ、編地の密度を適切な範囲に設定すればよく、編地密度、すなわち、コース/インチ(2.54cm)×ウェール/インチ、の値を1500〜4000にすることにより本発明の目的を達成できるため好ましい。より好ましくは、2000〜3500である。この範囲以外では伸張ヒステリシスが低下し好ましくない。また、該編地の密度を変更するには、編機のゲージ、使用する非弾性糸の太さ、弾性糸の太さ、編成時における弾性糸のドラフト条件、染色加工時のセット密度等の選定により調整を行う。
【0019】
本発明の三層構造丸編地は、通常の染色仕上げ加工を実施して仕上げることが可能であるが、生地の厚みが厚い場合は染色加工中にシワが発生しやすい場合があり、その場合には、プレセット時に温度、時間の調製を行い、染色時には液流染色機の使用、シワが多い場合にはビーム染色機により染色すれば、シワのない美しい編地が得られる。出来上がった三層構造丸編地は、インナー、スポーツ等の衣服の他、サポーター、靴のインソール、シーツ等の寝具、および椅子張り等各種資材にも使用可能である。
【0020】
【実施例】
以下、本発明を実施例及び比較例を用いて具体的に説明する。なお、実施例、比較例における評価は下記の方法により実施した。
(1)伸張回復率
試料をタテ方向、およびヨコ方向に140mm×165mm(引張側×拘束側)に裁断し、一軸固定二軸伸張試験機(STRIP BIAXIAL TENSILE TESTER KES−G2−SB1 カトーテック社製)に取り付ける。このとき、応力がかかる試料の有効寸法は100mm×100mmであり、伸度を換算する有効試料長は11.5cmである。引張速度300mm/分で50%まで伸張を行い、同じ速度で元の長さまで伸張緩和し、これを3回繰り返し、3回目の往路、復路それぞれ30%伸張時の応力を読みとり、これを3回行い、N=3の平均値を求め、さらに、タテ方向、ヨコ方向の平均値を算出して伸張回復率とした。
【0021】
(2)着用快適性
実施例および比較例で得られた生地を用いてロングガードルを作製し、パネラー10名にて着用した。パネラーにはロングガードル着用後、日常生活におけるフィッティング性、保型性をヒアリングし、下記の様に評価した。
○:フィッティング性、保型性とも極めて優れる。着用していて快適である。
△:フィッティング性、保型性とも優れる。快適な着用感である。
×:フィッティング感物足りず、保型性も十分とはいえない。
【0022】
【実施例1】
28Gのダブルの丸編機を使用し、ダイアルとシリンダーの歯口間隔を4mmとして下記の糸使いにより三層構造丸編地を編成した。
表編地:編機シリンダーを使用し、ポリエステル84dtex/24fの加工糸と、44dtexのポリウレタン弾性糸(旭化成(株)製、登録商標“ロイカ”、以下、ロイカ、という)を添え糸編みによりドラフト率2.5で天竺編組織とした。
裏編地:編機ダイアルを使用し、糸使い、組織等条件を表編地と同じにして編成した。
【0023】
連結糸:ポリエステル84dtex/36f加工糸を用い、編機シリンダーとダイアルとの両方の針にかかるタック組織とし、シリンダー、ダイアルともタックとウェルトを交互にし、次のコースではタックとウェルトとが逆になり、2コースで1レピートとなるような組織にして表編地と裏編地を接合した。
こうして製編した編地に染色加工を行って、編地密度65C/in×45W/inに仕上げた生地でロングガードルを縫製し、着用テストを行った結果を表1に示す。フィッティング性と保型性が良好であるため、優れた着用感を有する製品となった。
【0024】
【実施例2〜3、比較例1】
実施例1において、ロイカのドラフト率、染色加工時のプレセット時の条件変更により伸張回復率を変えたものを製造し、その評価を行った。その結果を表1に示す。
【0025】
【実施例4】
26Gのダブルの丸編機を使用し、ダイアルとシリンダーの歯口間隔を1mmとして下記の糸使いにより弾性丸編地を編成した。
表編地:編機シリンダーを使用し、ナイロン78dtex/24fの加工糸と、78dtexのロイカを添え糸編みによりドラフト率2.5で天竺編組織とした。
裏編地:編機ダイアルを使用し、ナイロン78dtex/24fの加工糸と、44dtexのロイカを添え糸編みによりドラフト率2.5で天竺編組織とした。
【0026】
連結糸:ナイロン78dtex/24f加工糸を用い、編機シリンダーとダイアルとの両方の針にかかるタック組織とし、シリンダー、ダイアルともタックとウェルトを交互にし、次のコースではタックとウェルトとが逆になり、2コースで1レピートとなるような組織にして表編地と裏編地を接合した。
こうして製編した編地に染色加工を行い、編地密度55C/in×42w/inに仕上げた生地でロングガードルを縫製し、着用テストを行った結果を表1に示す。フィッティング性と保型性が良好であるため、優れた着用感を有する製品となった。
【0027】
【実施例5】
26Gのダブルの丸編機を使用し、ダイアルとシリンダーの歯口間隔を4mmとして下記の糸使いにより弾性丸編地を編成した。
表編地:編機シリンダーを使用し、ポリエステル84dtex/24fの加工糸と、33dtexのロイカを添え糸編みによりドラフト率2.5で天竺編組織とした。
裏編地:編機ダイアルを使用し、ロイカ44dtexにポリエステル84dtex/36fを400T/m、ドラフト率3.0の条件でカバーリングした被覆弾性糸を用い、天竺編組織とした。
【0028】
連結糸:ポリエステル56dtex/24f加工糸を用い、編機シリンダーとダイアルとの両方の針にかかるタック組織とし、シリンダー、ダイアルともタックとウェルトを交互にし、次のコースではタックとウェルトとが逆になり、2コースで1レピートとなるような組織にして表編地と裏編地を接合した。
製編した編地に染色加工を行い、編地密度45C/in×42W/inに仕上げた生地でロングガードルを縫製し、着用テストを行った。その結果、表1に示すように良好な着用感を有する製品となった。
【0029】
【比較例2】
実施例1において、表編地、裏編地の組織を図1の様に変更して製編、染色加工により編地密度65C/in×45W/inの丸編地を製造した。
得られた生地でロングガードルを縫製し、着用テストを行った結果を表1に示す。フィッティング性、保型性とも実施例より劣るため、着用感の劣った製品であった。
【0030】
【表1】

Figure 2004115955
【0031】
【発明の効果】
本発明の三層構造丸編地は、優れた伸縮特性を持ちながら、着用時に良好なフィッティング性と、保型性を有した丸編地を提供できる。この編地を衣服に加工した場合は、着用感に優れた製品となる。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図1】比較例2の三層構造丸編地において例示される編成図である。
【符号の説明】
1:連結編部
2:表面の地編部
3:裏面の地編部
4:連結編部
5:表面の地編部
6:裏面の地編部
7:連結編部
8:表面の地編部
9:裏面の地編部
10:連結編部
11:表面の地編部
12:裏面の地編部[0001]
TECHNICAL FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a three-layer circular knitted fabric having a three-dimensional structure formed by connecting two front and back ground knitted fabrics with connecting yarns.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Circular knitted fabrics having a three-dimensional structure composed of two front and back ground knitted fabrics and a connecting yarn (connecting yarn) for joining them are used for clothing and industrial materials. In the case of this circular knitted fabric, normal yarns (yarns generally used such as filaments, false twisted yarns and spun yarns) have been used for the front, back and connecting yarns. In addition, attempts have been made to impart elasticity to the three-dimensional structure knitted fabric, and a three-dimensional structure knitted fabric having good elasticity has been obtained by various methods.
[0003]
However, in recent years, for example, in the inner field, sports field, and other fabrics in which fitting and shape retention properties are required, the conventional three-dimensional structure knitted fabric having elasticity is inferior in stretch recovery although stretchability is good. There is a problem that a good fitting property and a beautiful shape retention property cannot be obtained. As an example of the prior art, a three-layer structure knitted fabric excellent in anti-snagging properties has been proposed, in which ground knitted fabrics on both front and back sides are knitted by pulling an inelastic yarn and an elastic yarn having a breaking elongation of 250% or more together. (For example, see Patent Document 1). However, although this knitted fabric is certainly effective in anti-snagging properties, the fitting properties and the shape retention properties are insufficient, and a comfortable wearing feeling cannot be obtained when worn.
As described above, there is no conventional three-dimensional knitted fabric having elasticity and good fitting feeling and shape retention.
[0004]
[Patent Document 1]
Japanese Patent No. 3145209 [0005]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
An object of the present invention is to provide a circular knitted fabric having a three-layer structure, which has excellent elasticity and good fitting properties when worn and shape retention.
[0006]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
The present inventor has conducted various studies on a method for further improving the elongation recovery property during elongation, and as a result, has reached the present invention. That is, the present invention is a three-layer circular knitted fabric in which a ground knitted fabric containing two elastic yarns is connected by a connecting yarn, and the stretch recovery rate is 50% or more. It is a three-layer circular knitted fabric.
[0007]
BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
Regarding the stretch recovery of cloth with a wide area, such as clothes using a three-layered circular knitted fabric, unlike the stretch recovery of a cloth with a narrow width of about 5 cm, it shows the behavior at the time of stretching of a complicated cloth, As a result of elucidating this complicated dough behavior, the present invention has been achieved, that is, a method of evaluating elongation recoverability and dough development, in which the object of the present invention could be achieved by a combination with a specific tissue, a known method. It cannot be achieved with fabric.
The circular knitted fabric of the three-layer structure of the present invention contains elastic yarns in the front and back ground knitted fabrics, and the elastic yarns may be bare elastic yarns or coated elastic yarns. It is more suitable to achieve the object of the present invention if the yarn contains both the front and back surfaces. In addition, the object of the present invention can be achieved by forming the structure of the ground knitted fabric into a knitted fabric and connecting them with connecting yarns.
[0008]
As a method of including the bare elastic yarn, the elastic yarn and the non-elastic yarn may be aligned or knitted by an additional yarn, and when the coated elastic yarn is contained, the non-elastic yarn and the coated elastic yarn are used. And knitting them together, or containing them by means of knitting. In addition, the bare yarn of the elastic yarn and the coated elastic yarn may be mixed in the ground knitted fabric, and the method of containing the elastic yarn on the front surface and the back surface may be different. For example, a three-layer circular knitted fabric containing a bare elastic yarn on one surface and a coated elastic yarn on the other surface can be used.
In the present invention, for the structure of the ground knitted fabric on the front surface and the back surface, a plain knitting is preferable, and for the structure connecting the ground knitted material on the front surface and the back surface, it is preferable to connect the front surface and the back surface with a tack structure.
[0009]
An arbitrary state can be selected for the cross-knitting state of the elastic yarn, but the elastic yarn is preferably contained in all the courses, and may be contained in every one or two courses. In addition, the mixing ratio of the elastic yarn is preferably 3 to 30% by weight, more preferably 5 to 20% by weight of the whole elastic circular knitted fabric. If it is less than 3% by weight, a circular knitted fabric having poor elasticity will be obtained. On the other hand, if the mixing ratio of the elastic yarns is more than 30% by weight, the circular knitted fabric has a large shrinkage, and the fabric tends to have a hard texture, which is not preferable. Similarly, the ratio of the elastic yarn to the non-elastic yarn contained in each of the front and back ground knitted fabrics is preferably 3 to 30% by weight, more preferably 5 to 20% by weight. Further, the content of the elastic yarn on the front surface and the back surface may be the same or different, and when the content of the elastic yarn on the front surface and the back surface is different, whichever is greater, the object of the present invention is achieved. it can.
[0010]
The bare yarn of the elastic yarn according to the present invention is a state in which the elastic yarn is used as it is, and is usually knitted by aligning it with the non-elastic yarn or by knitting with an additional yarn. In addition, a draft rate (draft rate = a feeding rate of the inelastic yarn / a feeding rate of the elastic yarn) which is a ratio of a feeding speed of the elastic yarn and a feeding speed of the inelastic yarn at the time of knitting the inelastic yarn and the elastic yarn. Although the yarn feeding speed can be arbitrarily set, the draft rate is preferably about 1.2 to 4.0 in consideration of knitting properties. Regarding the thickness of the elastic yarn, when the elastic yarn is used as a bare yarn, it can be used as long as a knit loop can be formed, and is preferably 10 to 160 dtex, more preferably 20 to 120 dtex, and particularly preferably 30 dtex. 8080 dtex.
[0011]
The coated elastic yarn is a coated elastic yarn obtained by covering an elastic yarn as a core and a multifilament synthetic fiber such as polyester fiber or nylon fiber as a sheath component, FTY (filament twist yarn), STY (span yarn). Coated elastic yarn called CSY (twisted yarn), DCY (double twisted yarn), SCY (single twisted yarn), CSY coated with short fibers such as cotton, Further, a coated elastic yarn obtained by twisting an inelastic yarn and an elastic yarn can be used. An arbitrary draft rate can be set for the draft rate of these coated elastic yarns (draft rate of coated elastic yarn = length of inelastic yarn when coated elastic yarn is stretched / length of elastic yarn in non-elongated state). It is preferable to set the value in a range of about 1.2 to 4.0. The thickness of the elastic yarn used in the coated elastic yarn is not particularly limited, but is preferably from 20 to 160 dtex, and the mixing ratio with the inelastic yarn is not particularly limited, but is preferably from about 5 to 70% by weight. It can be selected arbitrarily depending on the knitted fabric.
[0012]
In the present invention, as the elastic yarn, a yarn having elasticity such as a polyurethane-based or polyetherester-based yarn can be used. For example, dry-spun or melt-spun polyurethane elastic yarns can be used. The polymer used as the elastic yarn and the spinning method are not limited. The elongation at break of the elastic yarn is preferably 400 to 1000%. Further, it is preferable that the elasticity is excellent and the elasticity is not impaired at around the normal processing temperature of 180 ° C. in the pre-setting step at the time of dyeing. In addition, a yarn in which functions such as antibacterial property, deodorization, moisture absorption, and water absorption are imparted to the elastic yarn can be used.
[0013]
The yarns other than the elastic yarns used for the two-sided and knitted fabrics of the present invention, that is, the inelastic yarns are not limited at all, and include synthetic fibers such as cupra rayon and viscose rayon, polyester, nylon, acrylic, and polytriene. Synthetic fibers such as methylene terephthalate, and fibers such as cotton, wool, and hemp can be used. In particular, if polyester fibers or nylon fibers are used, the garment will have good dimensional stability. To impart water absorbency or moisture absorbency, fibers such as cotton, cupra rayon, viscose rayon and the like may be used. Two or more yarns can be mixed and used by blending, blending, twisting, or knitting on a knitting machine.
[0014]
Furthermore, it is also possible to change the yarn type used for the front and back ground knitted fabric to make the front and back functions different from each other.For example, if polyester fiber is used for the front knitted fabric and cupra rayon is used for the backed knitted fabric, water absorption will occur. It becomes an elastic circular knitted fabric with excellent properties and quick drying properties. In addition, when a hydrophobic synthetic fiber is used for the outer knitted fabric and cotton is used for the lining knitted fabric, and the outer fabric is knitted by a known method using a normal water-repellent agent, a glossy, surface water-repellent, An elastic knitted fabric having a back moisture absorbing function is obtained.
The form of the inelastic yarn to be used is also arbitrary, and a filament yarn, a processed yarn such as false twist, a spun yarn, a modified cross-section yarn and the like can be used.
The thickness of these inelastic yarns is not limited, but is preferably 20 to 170 dtex, 120 to 30S for cotton count, more preferably 30 to 110 dtex, and 100S to 50S for cotton count. When a knitted fabric is required to be thin and lightweight, a thin yarn should be used as much as possible, and when a strength improvement is required, a thick yarn should be used as much as possible.
[0015]
In the present invention, as the connecting yarn for connecting the front and back two ground knitted fabrics, any of the above-described inelastic yarns can be used, and an elastic yarn can also be used. Regarding the thickness of these connecting yarns, yarns of any thickness can be used, and as the thicker yarns are used, the thickness of the elastic circular knitted fabric increases, and the repulsive force in the surface direction of the knitted fabric tends to increase.
The three-layer circular knitted fabric of the present invention can be knitted by a double circular knitting machine having two rows of needle beds. The gauge of the knitting machine may be appropriately selected depending on the purpose of use, and is preferably 18 to 40 gauge. The gap between teeth can be arbitrarily selected, and if a thick knitted fabric is required, the gap between teeth can be set wide. It is preferable that the thickness of the elastic circular knitted fabric is 0.5 to 5 mm as measured by the JIS-L-1018 method, because the object of the present invention is easily achieved. When the thickness of the three-layered circular knitted fabric is less than 0.5 mm, it may be difficult to obtain an appropriate shape retention property when used as clothing, and when the thickness exceeds 5 mm, wrinkles may occur.
[0016]
The greige of the three-layered circular knitted fabric obtained by these methods is opened and finished, including pre-treatment, which is a general dyeing process, and after the dyeing process, finishing setting including resin processing, and sewing the finished fabric. It can be made into a product.
The three-layered circular knitted fabric of the present invention is a result of elucidating the elongation behavior of a complex fabric when worn, and has led to the present invention.The fabric evaluation method, that is, the fabric evaluation by a uniaxial fixed biaxial extension test Is possible. That is, by using a uniaxial fixed biaxial extension tester (STRIP BIAXIAL TENSILE TESTER KES-G2-SB1 manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.), one direction of the cloth is restrained, and the cloth elongation in the other direction is measured, thereby achieving practical use. The elongation can be measured. Conventionally, the method of measuring the extensibility or the like is a method in which only the stretching direction is fixed and the other directions are measured without being constrained, and it cannot be said that the stretching behavior of the cloth when worn is substituted.
[0017]
In the present invention, an evaluation method assuming wearing was developed, and the relationship with wearing comfort was also studied. As a result, it was found that a comfortable wearing feeling can be obtained if the stretch recovery rate is 50% or more. That is, the dough is stretched to 50% by a uniaxial fixed biaxial extension tester, and the stress at the time of 30% extension of the outward path and the return path is measured, and the ratio between the outward path stress and the return path stress is defined as the extension recovery rate. This is obtained by the formula, and the average is shown in the vertical and horizontal directions of the fabric. In the present invention, the stretch recovery rate needs to be 50% or more, and if the stretch recovery rate is less than 50%, the fitting feeling at the time of wearing is not excellent, and preferably 60% or more. If the fabric is manufactured, it will be a comfortable garment with excellent fitting properties and excellent shape retention.
Elongation recovery rate = (30% elongation stress at return / 30% elongation stress at forward elongation) × 100
[0018]
As a method for producing such a three-layer circular knitted fabric having an elongation recovery rate of 50% or more, a three-layered circular knitted fabric having a sheet-in-laid structure containing two elastic yarns is connected by a connecting yarn. A circular knitted fabric may be used, and the density of the knitted fabric may be set in an appropriate range. By setting the value of the knitted fabric density, that is, the value of course / inch (2.54 cm) × wale / inch to 1500 to 4000, It is preferable because the object of the present invention can be achieved. More preferably, it is 2000-3500. Outside this range, the elongation hysteresis is undesirably reduced. To change the density of the knitted fabric, the gauge of the knitting machine, the thickness of the inelastic yarn to be used, the thickness of the elastic yarn, the draft conditions of the elastic yarn at the time of knitting, the set density at the time of dyeing, etc. Adjust by selection.
[0019]
The three-layer circular knitted fabric of the present invention can be finished by performing a normal dyeing finishing process, but when the thickness of the fabric is large, wrinkles may easily occur during the dyeing process. In addition, the temperature and time are adjusted at the time of presetting, and a dyeing machine is used at the time of dyeing, and if there are many wrinkles, dyeing is performed with a beam dyeing machine to obtain a beautiful knitted fabric without wrinkles. The finished three-layered circular knitted fabric can be used not only for clothes such as innerwear and sports, but also for supporters, shoe insoles, beddings such as sheets, and various materials such as upholstery.
[0020]
【Example】
Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically described with reference to Examples and Comparative Examples. The evaluation in Examples and Comparative Examples was performed by the following methods.
(1) Elongation recovery rate The sample was cut into 140 mm x 165 mm (tensile side x restraint side) in the vertical direction and horizontal direction, and a uniaxial fixed biaxial extension tester (STRIP BIAXIAL TENSILE TESTER KES-G2-SB1 manufactured by Kato Tech Co., Ltd.) ). At this time, the effective dimension of the sample to which stress is applied is 100 mm × 100 mm, and the effective sample length for elongation conversion is 11.5 cm. Elongate to 50% at a pulling speed of 300 mm / min, relax to the original length at the same speed, repeat this three times, read the stress at the time of 30% elongation for the third forward and return trips, and repeat this three times. Then, the average value of N = 3 was obtained, and the average value in the vertical direction and the horizontal direction was calculated to obtain the extension recovery rate.
[0021]
(2) Wearing comfort A long girdle was produced using the fabrics obtained in the examples and comparative examples, and was worn by 10 panelists. After wearing the long girdle, the panelists were interviewed for their fitting and shape-retaining properties in daily life, and evaluated as follows.
:: Both fitting properties and shape retention properties are extremely excellent. It is comfortable to wear.
Δ: Both fitting property and shape retention property are excellent. Comfortable wearing feeling.
X: The feeling of fitting is insufficient, and the shape retention is not sufficient.
[0022]
Embodiment 1
Using a 28G double circular knitting machine, a three-layer circular knitted fabric was knitted by using the following yarns with the gap between the dial and the cylinder being 4 mm.
Outer knitting fabric: Using a knitting machine cylinder, drafting by yarn knitting with a processed yarn of polyester 84dtex / 24f and a polyurethane elastic yarn of 44dtex (manufactured by Asahi Kasei Corporation, registered trademark "Loica", hereinafter referred to as Loica). The sheet was knitted at a rate of 2.5.
Back knitted fabric: Knitting was performed using a knitting machine dial under the same conditions as yarn knitting and structure, etc., for the front knitted fabric.
[0023]
Connecting yarn: Polyester 84dtex / 36f processed yarn is used, and the tack structure is applied to both needles of the knitting machine cylinder and dial. Tack and welt are alternated for both cylinder and dial, and in the next course, tack and welt are reversed. In other words, the front knitted fabric and the back knitted fabric were joined to form an organization in which one repeat was made in two courses.
The knitted fabric thus knitted was dyed, a long girdle was sewn with the fabric finished to a knitted fabric density of 65 C / in × 45 W / in, and the wearing test was performed. Since the fitting property and the shape retention property were good, a product having an excellent wearing feeling was obtained.
[0024]
Examples 2-3, Comparative Example 1
In Example 1, a product was manufactured in which the draft recovery rate of Leica was changed and the elongation recovery rate was changed by changing the conditions at the time of presetting during dyeing, and the evaluation was performed. Table 1 shows the results.
[0025]
Embodiment 4
Using a 26G double circular knitting machine, an elastic circular knitted fabric was knitted by using the following thread while setting the gap between the dial and the cylinder to 1 mm.
Outer knitted fabric: Using a cylinder of a knitting machine, a processed yarn of nylon 78dtex / 24f and a loica of 78dtex were added, and a knitted fabric was formed at a draft rate of 2.5 by thread knitting.
Back knitted fabric: A knitting machine dial was used, and a processing yarn of nylon 78dtex / 24f and a loica of 44dtex were added, and a knitted fabric was formed at a draft rate of 2.5 by yarn knitting.
[0026]
Connecting yarn: Using a nylon 78 dtex / 24f processed yarn, a tack structure is applied to both the needle of the knitting machine cylinder and the dial, and the cylinder and the dial alternate the tack and the welt. In the next course, the tack and the welt are reversed. In other words, the front knitted fabric and the back knitted fabric were joined to form an organization in which one repeat was made in two courses.
The knitted fabric thus knitted was dyed, a long girdle was sewn with a fabric finished to a knitted fabric density of 55 C / in × 42 w / in, and a wearing test was performed. Since the fitting property and the shape retention property were good, a product having an excellent wearing feeling was obtained.
[0027]
Embodiment 5
Using a 26G double circular knitting machine, an elastic circular knitted fabric was knitted by using the following yarns with a gap between the dial and the cylinder of 4 mm.
Outer knitted fabric: Using a knitting machine cylinder, a processed yarn of polyester 84dtex / 24f and a loica of 33dtex were added, and a knitting structure was formed at a draft rate of 2.5 by yarn knitting.
Back knitted fabric: Using a knitting machine dial, using a coated elastic yarn obtained by covering Polyester 84 dtex / 36f on Leica 44 dtex under the conditions of 400 T / m and a draft rate of 3.0, a sheet knitting fabric was formed.
[0028]
Connecting yarn: Using a polyester 56dtex / 24f processed yarn, a tack structure is applied to both the needle of the knitting machine cylinder and the dial, and the cylinder and the dial alternate the tack and the welt. In the next course, the tack and the welt are reversed. In other words, the front knitted fabric and the back knitted fabric were joined to form an organization in which one repeat was made in two courses.
The knitted fabric was dyed, a long girdle was sewn with a fabric finished to a knitted fabric density of 45 C / in × 42 W / in, and a wearing test was performed. As a result, as shown in Table 1, a product having a good wearing feeling was obtained.
[0029]
[Comparative Example 2]
In Example 1, a circular knitted fabric having a knitted fabric density of 65 C / in × 45 W / in was manufactured by knitting and dyeing while changing the structure of the front knitted fabric and the back knitted fabric as shown in FIG.
A long girdle was sewn with the obtained fabric, and a wearing test was performed. The results are shown in Table 1. Since the fitting property and the shape retention property were inferior to those of the examples, the product was inferior in wearing feeling.
[0030]
[Table 1]
Figure 2004115955
[0031]
【The invention's effect】
The three-layered circular knitted fabric of the present invention can provide a circular knitted fabric having excellent fitting properties and shape retention when worn while having excellent stretchability. When this knitted fabric is processed into clothes, it becomes a product excellent in wearing feeling.
[Brief description of the drawings]
1 is a knitting diagram exemplified in a three-layer circular knitted fabric of Comparative Example 2. FIG.
[Explanation of symbols]
1: Connected knitted portion 2: Front ground knitted portion 3: Back ground knitted portion 4: Connected knitted portion 5: Front ground knitted portion 6: Backside ground knitted portion 7: Connected knitted portion 8: Front ground knitted portion 9: Back knit 10: Connection knit 11: Front knit 12: Back knit

Claims (1)

表裏二枚の弾性糸を含有する地編地を連結糸で連結してなる三層構造丸編地であって、伸張回復率が50%以上であることを特徴とする三層構造丸編地。A three-layer circular knitted fabric comprising a ground knitted fabric containing two front and back elastic yarns connected by a connecting yarn, wherein a stretch recovery rate is 50% or more. .
JP2002280459A 2002-09-26 2002-09-26 Circular knitted fabric of three-layer structure Pending JP2004115955A (en)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2009024276A (en) * 2007-07-19 2009-02-05 Gunze Ltd Garment having opening part made by tubular knitting

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2009024276A (en) * 2007-07-19 2009-02-05 Gunze Ltd Garment having opening part made by tubular knitting

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