WO2019223772A1 - 一种单面针织面料 - Google Patents

一种单面针织面料 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019223772A1
WO2019223772A1 PCT/CN2019/088218 CN2019088218W WO2019223772A1 WO 2019223772 A1 WO2019223772 A1 WO 2019223772A1 CN 2019088218 W CN2019088218 W CN 2019088218W WO 2019223772 A1 WO2019223772 A1 WO 2019223772A1
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Prior art keywords
yarn
knitted fabric
hydrophilic
sided
hydrophobic
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PCT/CN2019/088218
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
何晓霞
张晴
楚玉松
吴卓伟
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东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司
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Priority to CN201980032551.7A priority Critical patent/CN112105771B/zh
Publication of WO2019223772A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019223772A1/zh

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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04BKNITTING
    • D04B1/00Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/14Other fabrics or articles characterised primarily by the use of particular thread materials

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a single-sided knitted fabric, in particular to a single-sided knitted fabric with a water-absorbing and quick-drying function.
  • Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 10-131000 discloses a double-sided knitted fabric having a concave-convex structure with a height difference of 0.2 mm or more and 2 mm or less on the back side.
  • the knitted fabric below is made of viscose filament or polyester / viscose mixed filament, and the convex part and the front side are made of polyester filament.
  • Such a knitted fabric can reduce the feeling of sweltering and stickiness after sweating.
  • Japanese Patent Document Laid-Open No. 2011-256495 discloses a water-absorbent fabric.
  • the fabric is a double-layer knitted or woven fabric, the surface layer is formed of hydrophilic yarns, the inner layer is formed of hydrophilic yarns and hydrophobic yarns, and the shrinkage rate of the inner hydrophilic yarns is hydrophobic More than 5% of the yarn uses a design with a hydrophilic surface and a hydrophobic part to achieve the purpose of quick drying.
  • the double-layer design of these technologies there is more water retention space between the yarns, and the sweat conduction channel is relatively long, which makes the time required for moisture diffusion longer, and the quick-drying property still needs to be improved.
  • Chinese patent document CN103668732A discloses a one-way wet quick-drying method using cotton yarn as the inner layer material and a "Y" -shaped ultra-fine denier polyester filament as the outer layer material.
  • Cotton / polyester composite knitted fabric Use the poor moisture permeability of the top and bottom yarns to guide the body's sweat to the outer layer and quickly evaporate to keep the inner layer of the fabric dry.
  • the inner layer is made of high-water-retention cotton yarn, it is difficult to ensure the dryness of the muscle surface and the wearing comfort is poor.
  • Japanese Patent Publication No. 5596886 discloses a fabric including a fiber A without water repellency and a fiber B having water repellency, wherein a weight ratio of the fiber A and the fiber B is 50:50 to 87:13.
  • fabrics have the characteristics of water absorption, water repellency and easy to float on the water surface, but there is no solution for quick drying in this document.
  • An object of the present invention is to provide a single-sided knitted fabric which has excellent water absorption and quick-drying properties and can maintain the dryness of the muscle surface.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention is a single-sided weft knitted fabric, including a surface and an inner surface, wherein the inner surface is formed by alternately arranging hydrophobic yarns and hydrophilic yarns A along the weft loop, and is provided on the inner surface Hydrophobic section.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention has the function of quickly absorbing sweat and exporting it to the surface, and then rapidly spreads on the surface. At the same time, it can maintain a dry feeling at all times without the discomfort of sticking to the skin after sweating. It is especially suitable for making summer sweatshirts such as T-shirts and sportswear.
  • FIG. 1 is a back view of the fabric of Example 3 of the present invention, a is a hydrophilic yarn, and b is a hydrophobic yarn.
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic diagram of a pad structure in Embodiment 1 of the present invention.
  • Fig. 3 is a schematic view of the yarn adding structure of Example 2 of the present invention.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention is a weft knitted fabric with a single-sided structure. Compared with a double-sided knitted fabric formed with the same fineness yarn, the light-weight advantage is obvious and it is more conducive to sports. On the other hand, the perspiration channel of single-sided tissue fabric is relatively short, and the problem of sweat retention after sweat absorption like double-sided tissue fabric does not occur, and the quick-drying property is better.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention includes a surface and an inner surface, wherein the inner surface is formed by alternately arranging hydrophobic yarns and hydrophilic yarns A along the weft loop, and the hydrophobic yarns form a hydrophobic portion on the inner surface.
  • the sexual yarn forms a hydrophilic portion.
  • the alternate arrangement of the weft-wise coils here means that the hydrophilic yarns and the hydrophobic yarns are alternately arranged at intervals of one.
  • the molecular structure of the hydrophobic yarn is relatively tight, water molecules do not easily enter the fiber, and the moisture (sweat) on the skin is concentrated to the hydrophilic part and absorbed and transmitted. The dry feeling in the fabric is guaranteed, even if the amount of sweat is very high.
  • the water-repellent portion in the present invention means a portion having no function of absorbing water.
  • the hydrophilic part is a part having a function of quickly absorbing sweat generated by the human body and transmitting it to the surface.
  • the use of hydrophilic yarn B has better sweat absorption and conductivity and surface diffusion. It is preferable because the drying speed of the inner hydrophilic portion can be increased.
  • the hydrophilic yarn in the present invention means that 6 to 8 yarns are visually juxtaposed side by side without a gap to form a yarn bundle, and a drop of water is dripped with a dropper from 1 cm directly above, which can be applied within 60 seconds. The water is completely absorbed by the yarn.
  • the hydrophobic yarn in the present invention refers to a yarn that fails to completely absorb water within 60 seconds according to the method described above.
  • the hydrophilic yarn A (or the hydrophilic yarn B) is a yarn having a hydrophilic property or a yarn with a hydrophilic resin attached to the surface
  • the hydrophobic yarn is a yarn having a hydrophobic property or Water-repellent resin is attached to the surface.
  • the fiber raw material may be one or more of cotton, viscose, polyamide (Ny), and the like.
  • the hydrophilic yarn A is a yarn with a hydrophilic resin attached to the surface
  • the hydrophilic resin is obtained from a monomer having a strong hydrophilic group after moderate crosslinking
  • the type of the resin capable of absorbing hundreds or even thousands of times of water is not particularly limited, and may be a water-based polyurethane resin, a water-based acrylic resin, or a water-based polyester resin.
  • the fiber raw material of the yarn attached with hydrophilic resin in the present invention may be ordinary polyester (PET), polybutylene terephthalate (PBT), polytrimethylene terephthalate (PTT), and cation modification.
  • PET polybutylene terephthalate
  • PTT polytrimethylene terephthalate
  • CDP polyester
  • the fiber raw materials of the hydrophilic yarn A and the hydrophilic yarn B in the present invention may be the same or different.
  • the hydrophilic yarn A and the hydrophilic yarn B are the same, and are both yarns having a hydrophilic resin adhered to the surface.
  • the fiber material may have water-repellent properties.
  • the water-repellent resin here may be derived from paraffin, silicone, carbohydrate, One or more of fluorine. Among them, the fluorine type may be carbon 4, carbon 6, carbon 8 and the like.
  • the fiber raw material may be one or more of PET, PBT, PTT, CDP, polypropylene (PP), and the like.
  • the PP fibers include ordinary unmodified PP fibers, dyeable PP fibers, colored PP fibers (color masterbatch coloring), and the like.
  • Dyeable PP fibers are obtained by uniformly dispersing a dyeable polymer (polyester or polyamide) in a PP resin and extruding and spinning. Colored PP fiber is made by mixing masterbatch with polypropylene resin in a certain ratio and melt-spinning.
  • PP fiber is the chemical fiber with the smallest density, especially fine denier PP fiber.
  • PP fiber is not easy to chemically react with conventional hydrophilic chemicals.
  • the binding becomes hydrophilic, that is, even if a hydrophilic resin is processed during finishing, the hydrophobicity is not affected, so it is preferred.
  • These fiber raw materials can be used as they are, or they can be synthesized according to a technique known in the art.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention is preferably a yarn-added structure or a pad structure. Among them, taking into account the exponential performance of the dynamic moisture transfer method, the smoothness and comfort of the fabric, the added yarn structure is preferred.
  • the area of the hydrophilic part on the inside of the fabric is too large, it may affect the dryness of the muscle surface.
  • the hydrophobic part is dominant on the inside, it may be difficult for sweat to be absorbed in time.
  • the area ratio between the hydrophobic portion and the hydrophilic portion on the back surface of the fabric is between 1: 1.0 and 4.0. More preferably, the area ratio of the two is 1: 1.0 to 2.0.
  • the threads of the hydrophilic yarn are longer than the threads of the hydrophobic yarn.
  • the coils formed by hydrophilic yarns appear large and fluffy. Such coils form the hydrophilic part close to the skin, which is more conducive to sweating and perspiration when sweating.
  • the hydrophilic yarn is more preferably 5% to 15% longer than the hydrophobic yarn.
  • the monofilament fineness ratio between the hydrophilic yarn B on the surface and the hydrophilic yarn A on the inside is 1: 1.1 to 4.0. More preferably, the monofilament fineness ratio between the hydrophilic yarn B on the surface and the hydrophilic yarn A on the inside is 1: 2.0 to 3.5. Because the monofilament fineness of the surface yarn is thinner than the monofilament inside, the surface yarn is denser than the monofilament gap (capillary) of the inner yarn, and the capillary wicking effect will be more obvious, so the sweat inside it will be more Can better conduct to the surface and spread quickly. The finer the monofilament fineness of the surface yarn, the smaller the gap (capillary) between the monofilaments can be formed, and the better the water absorption effect.
  • the hydrophilic yarn B on the surface is preferably a multifilament filament of 50 to 150 denier (abbreviated as D) or a staple fiber yarn of 30 to 80 inches (abbreviated as S ).
  • D denier
  • S staple fiber yarn
  • filament multifilament less than 50 denier or staple fiber finer than 80 S if the inner yarn is thicker than the surface yarn, weaving problems such as anti-filament may occur, and The layering inside is not clear, and the dryness of the muscle surface tends to decrease; if the yarn used is thinner than the surface yarn, although the problem of anti-filament will not occur, it is possible that the resulting fabric is thinner. There will be problems with the fabric soaking and sticking to the skin.
  • the inner yarn uses a yarn that is about the same thickness as the surface yarn, the layering of the surface layer and the inner layer becomes unclear, and the skin is dry and dry. The downward trend; and the resulting fabric is thicker and its use is limited. If the inner yarn uses a thinner yarn than the surface yarn, the inner layer structure is not obvious, and the sweat treatment on the muscle surface may not be achieved, which may affect the dry feeling.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention may be obtained by weaving colored yarns, or may be obtained by dyeing grey fabrics.
  • the colored yarn here can be the original yarn obtained by adding color masterbatch during the spinning process, or the colored yarn prepared by dyeing the natural colored yarn, or the colored spinning yarn made by dyeing the fiber .
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention when dripped with water droplets after washing 10 times, its water absorption time is measured within 1 second, and the dynamic moisture transfer method index (MMT) is 24 or more; The residual moisture content after the back washing is within 10%.
  • MMT index the lower the residual moisture content and the better the quick-drying property.
  • test method of the parameters involved in the present invention is as follows:
  • the 4-way yarn feeder is a tissue cycle.
  • 150D-144f-PET false-twisted yarn is fed as the surface yarn in the first yarn feeding port, and the feeding length is 270mm / 100 coils.
  • 75D-48f-PET false-twisted yarn is fed as the inner yarn in the second channel.
  • the feeding line length is 140mm / 100 coils; the third yarn feeding port is fed with 150D-144f-PET false twist processing yarn as the surface yarn, the feeding line length is 270mm / 100 coils, and the fourth line is fed with 75D- 48f-water-repellent resin-processed PET false twist processing yarn is used as the lining yarn, and the feeding length of the surface yarn and the lining yarn is 130mm / 100 stitches, and the pad structure (see FIG. 2) is knitted to obtain a grey fabric.
  • the grey cloth was refined (refining agent 2g / L, refining conditions: 90 ° C ⁇ 20 minutes), dyeing (PET dyeing conditions: disperse dye, 130 ° C ⁇ 40 minutes), hydrophilic resin processing (water-based polyester resin, Hua TWSOFT (HS-TC, 2% owf) manufactured by Dahaohong Co., Ltd. was finished and shaped to obtain the single-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. See Table 1 for specific parameters.
  • the two yarn feeders are a tissue cycle.
  • 150D-144f-PET false twist processing yarn is used as the surface yarn in the first yarn feeding mouth
  • 75D-48f-PET false twist processing yarn is used as the inner yarn
  • the feeding line length is 270mm / 100 coils
  • the second yarn feeding is 150D-144f-PET false twist processing yarn is fed as the surface yarn
  • 75D-48f-water-repellent resin processed PET false twist processing yarn is used as the inner yarn
  • the feeding length is 260mm / 100 coils, and the yarn is fed.
  • the fabric (see Fig. 3) is knitted to obtain a grey fabric, and the rest is the same as in Example 1 to obtain a single-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. See Table 1 for specific parameters.
  • the two yarn feeders are a tissue cycle.
  • the first yarn feeding mouth is fed with 100D-144f-PET false twist processing yarn as the surface yarn, and the feeding line length is 275mm / 100 loops; 50D-36f-PET false twist processing yarn is used as the inner yarn and feeding line.
  • the length is 275mm / 100 coils.
  • 100D-144f-PET false twist processing yarn is fed as the surface yarn, and the thread length is 275mm / 100 coils; 50D-48f-colored PP false twist processing yarn is used as the inner yarn, and the inner yarn is fed.
  • the length of the feeding line is 250 mm / 100 stitches, and the yarn adding structure is knitted to obtain a grey fabric.
  • the rest is the same as in Example 1 to obtain the single-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. See Table 1 for specific parameters.
  • a 50 S blended yarn composed of CDP short fibers and ordinary PET short fibers was selected as the first and second surface yarns, and the rest were the same as in Example 3 to obtain the single-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. See Table 1 for specific parameters.
  • 50D-96f-PET false-twisted processing yarn is used as the surface yarn of the first and second routes
  • 30D-24f-PET false-twisted processing yarn is used as the first yarn of the inner yarn
  • 30D-24f-colored PP false-twisted processing yarn is used as the surface yarn.
  • the rest is the same as in Example 3 to obtain the single-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. See Table 1 for specific parameters.
  • 40D-96f-PET false-twist-processed yarn was selected as the first and second surface yarns, and the rest were the same as in Example 5 to obtain the single-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. See Table 1 for specific parameters.
  • the 200D-96f-PET false-twist-processed yarn was selected as the first and third surface yarns, and the rest were the same as in Example 1 to obtain the single-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. See Table 1 for specific parameters.
  • An 80 S blended yarn composed of CDP staple fibers and ordinary PET staple fibers was selected as the first and second surface yarns, and the rest was the same as in Example 5 to obtain the single-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. See Table 1 for specific parameters.
  • An 85 S blended yarn composed of CDP staple fibers and ordinary PET staple fibers was selected as the first and second surface yarns, and the rest were the same as in Example 5 to obtain the single-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. See Table 1 for specific parameters.
  • a 30 S blended yarn composed of CDP staple fibers and ordinary PET staple fibers was selected as the first and third surface yarns, and the rest were the same as in Example 1 to obtain the single-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. See Table 1 for specific parameters.
  • a 28 S blended yarn formed from CDP staple fibers and ordinary PET staple fibers was selected as the first and third surface yarns, and the rest were the same as in Example 1 to obtain the single-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. See Table 1 for specific parameters.
  • the feeding length of the PET false twist processing yarn in the first yarn is 260mm / 100 coils
  • the feeding length of the PP false twist processing yarn in the second yarn is 280mm / 100 coils.
  • the rest is the same as in Example 3.
  • the first yarn feeder is fed with 100D-144f-Ny false twist processing yarn as the surface yarn, and the 50D-36f-Ny fake twist processing yarn is fed as lining yarn; the second yarn feeder is fed with 100D-144f-Ny fake yarn.
  • the twisted yarn was used as the surface yarn, and the 50D-48f-colored PP false twisted yarn was fed as the inner yarn.
  • the hydrophilic resin was not processed. The rest was the same as in Example 3 to obtain the single-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. See Table 1 for specific parameters.
  • 50D-72f-PET false-twisted yarn was used as the second yarn, and the rest was the same as in Example 3 to obtain the single-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. See Table 1 for specific parameters.
  • the first yarn feeding mouth is fed with 75D-48f-PET false twist processing yarn as the inner yarn, and the feeding line length is 275mm / 100 coils; the second yarn feeding mouth is fed with 20D-12f-modified dyeable PP fake
  • the twisted yarn was used as a lining yarn, and the feeding line length was 275 mm / 100 loops.
  • the rest was the same as in Example 3 to obtain the single-sided knitted fabric of the present invention. See Table 1 for specific parameters.
  • the 50D-36f-Ny false-twisted yarn was used as the first and second lining yarns, and the rest were the same as in Example 13 to obtain a single-sided knitted fabric. See Table 1 for specific parameters.
  • 50D-48f-colored PP false twist processing yarn was used as the first and second lining yarns, and the rest were the same as in Example 13 to obtain a single-sided knitted fabric. See Table 1 for specific parameters.
  • the 6 yarn feeders are a tissue cycle.
  • 100D-144f-Ny false-twisted yarn is fed as the surface yarn in the first and fourth yarn feeders, and the feeding length is 270mm / 100 coils;
  • 50D-36f-Ny false-twisted yarn is fed as the second yarn Yarn is fed with 50D-48f-colored PP false twist processing yarn as the inner yarn on the 5th line, and the feeding line length is 260mm / 100 coils;
  • 100D-144f-Ny false twist is fed on the 3rd and 6th yarn feeders.
  • the processed yarn was used as a surface yarn, and the feeding length was 295 mm / 100 loops.
  • the rest was the same as in Example 1 to obtain a double-sided knitted fabric. See Table 1 for specific parameters.
  • Example 2 It can be seen from Example 2 and Example 1 that under the same conditions, the knitted fabric obtained by adding yarn structure and the fabric obtained by pad structure have similar water absorption, but the former has fast-drying properties (high MMT index, Low residual moisture content) is better than the latter.
  • Example 3 It can be seen from Example 3 and Example 13 that under the same conditions, the fabric of which the hydrophilic yarn is a PET fiber with a hydrophilic resin adhered is compared with the fabric of which the hydrophilic yarn is a Ny fiber.
  • the water absorption is equivalent, and the quick-drying property (high MMT index and low residual moisture content) of the former is better than the latter.
  • Example 3 According to Example 3 and Example 12, under the same conditions, the MMT index of the former fabric with long hydrophilic yarns and the fabric with long hydrophobic yarns when knitted is the same. Below the latter, the residual moisture content is slightly higher than the latter, and water absorption is significantly better than the latter.
  • Example 3 It can be known from Example 3 and Example 14 that under the same conditions, the fabric with a ratio of monofilament of the front and back hydrophilic yarns of 1: 2.0 and the fabric of the monofilament of the front and back hydrophilic yarns with a ratio of 1: 1 In comparison, the former has slightly better water absorption than the latter, and the quick-drying property (high MMT index and low residual moisture content) is better than the latter.
  • Example 8 As can be seen from Example 8 and Example 9, under the same conditions, the fabric of the surface hydrophilic yarn B using 80 s staple fiber is compared with the fabric of the surface hydrophilic yarn B using 85 s staple fiber Both have similar water absorption, and the MMT index and residual moisture content of the former are slightly higher than the latter.
  • Example 10 As can be seen from Example 10 and Example 11, under the same conditions, the fabric of 30 s staple fiber on the surface hydrophilic yarn B is compared with the fabric of 28 s staple fiber on the surface hydrophilic yarn B. Both have similar water absorption, and the former is slightly faster than the latter (high MMT index and low residual moisture content).

Abstract

一种单面针织面料。该针织面料为单面组织的纬编物,包括表面和里面,其中里面由疏水性纱线(b)和亲水性纱线A(a)沿纬向线圈相互间隔交替配列而成,且在里面上设置有疏水部。该面料具有优异的吸水速干性及肌肤干爽感。

Description

一种单面针织面料 技术领域
本发明涉及一种单面针织面料,具体涉及一种具有吸水速干功能的单面针织面料。
背景技术
随着生活水平的不断提高,人们对穿着舒适性的要求也越来越高,普通的吸水速干类产品已不能满足人们的需求。特别是运动时人体会产生大量的汗液,这些汗液如果不能及时且完全被吸收、排出的话,就会导致面料湿透并粘在皮肤上,不适感尤为严重。
目前,人们对面料的吸水速干性能的研究也是比较多的。如,日本专利文献特开10-131000中公开了一种里侧设计为具有0.2mm以上2mm以下高度差的凹凸结构的双面针织物,其中凹部由单丝纤度1旦尼尔以上5旦尼尔以下的粘胶长丝或者聚酯/粘胶的混纤丝构成,凸部和表侧由聚酯长丝构成,这样的针织物可以降低闷热感以及出汗后的发粘感。日本专利文献特开2011-256495中公开了一种吸水性面料。该面料为双层针织物或机织物,表层由亲水性纱线形成、里层由亲水性纱线和疏水性纱线形成,且里层亲水性纱线的卷缩率是疏水性纱线的5%以上,即采用表面亲水、里面部分疏水的设计,实现了速干的目的。但这些技术由于采用的是双层设计,纱线间的保水空间较多,汗液传导通道也相对较长,使得水分扩散所需时间延长,速干性仍待进一步提高。
再如,中国专利文献CN103668732A中公开了一种采用棉纱作为内层材料,“Y”型断面超细旦涤纶长丝作为外层材料,平纹单面的组织结构进行编织得到的单向导湿快干的棉/涤复合针织面料。利用表里层纱线的导湿能力差将体表的汗液导向外层并迅速蒸发,保持面料内层干爽。但由于里层全部为高保水性的棉纱,很难保证肌面的干爽感,穿着舒适性差。
另外,日本专利文献特许第5596886号中公开了一种布帛,包括无拒水性的纤维A和有拒水性的纤维B,其中,纤维A和纤维B的重量比在50:50~87:13的范围内,这样的布帛同时具有吸水性、拒水性以及易浮于水面的特性,但是该文献中并没有对速干性提出解决方案。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种具有优异的吸水速干性,且能保持肌面干爽感的单面针织面料。
本发明的针织面料为单面组织的纬编物,包括表面和里面,其中里面由疏水性纱线和亲水性纱线A沿纬向线圈相互间隔交替配列而成,且在里面上设置有疏水部。
本发明的针织面料,具有快速吸收汗液并导出到表面,进而在表面迅速扩散的功能,同时里面可时刻保持干爽感,不会出现流汗后粘在肌肤上的不快感。特别适合用于制作夏季用的T恤衫、运动服等需要汗处理的服装。
附图说明
图1为本发明实施例3面料的里面图,a为亲水性纱线,b为疏水性纱线。 图2为本发明实施例1的衬垫组织示意图。
图3为本发明实施例2的添纱组织示意图。
具体实施方式
本发明的针织面料为单面组织的纬编物,与同纤度纱线形成的双面组织针织面料相比,轻薄优势明显,更有利于运动。另一方面,单面组织面料的导汗通道相对较短,不会出现双面组织面料那样吸汗后汗液滞留的问题,速干性更好。
本发明的针织面料包括表面和里面,其中里面由疏水性纱线和亲水性纱线A沿纬向线圈相互间隔交替配列而成,且在里面上疏水性纱线形成了疏水部,亲水性纱线形成了亲水部。这里的沿纬向线圈相互间隔交替配列是指,亲水性纱线与疏水性纱线1隔1相互交替的排列。疏水性纱线的分子结构较为紧密,水分子不容易进入纤维内部,肌肤上的水分(汗液)向亲水部集中并被吸收、传导,面料里面的干爽感得到保证,即便是出汗量很大也不会出现面料粘附在肌肤上的现象。如果里面全部是亲水性纱线的话,虽然可以将汗液吸收,但吸收后的汗液会将纤维润湿,使得面料粘贴在皮肤上。反之,里面全部是疏水性纱线的话,汗液滞留在皮肤表面,无法及时导出,同样也会导致面料粘贴皮肤的问题发生。
本发明中的疏水部是指不具有吸收水分功能的部分。亲水部是指具有快速吸收人体产生的汗液并传导到表面的功能的部分。
汗液被里面的亲水性纱线A吸收后需要尽快向表面传导,与在表面使用疏水性纱线相比,使用亲水性纱线B的话,汗液的吸收传导性以及表面 扩散性更好,可加快里面亲水部的干燥速度,因此,作为优选。
本发明中的亲水性纱线是指,将6~8根的纱线目测无间隙地并排在一起形成纱束,从正上方1厘米处用滴管滴下一滴水,能够在60秒内把水完全吸收的纱线。本发明中的疏水性纱线是指,按照上述方法未能在60秒内将水完全吸收的纱线。
亲水性纱线A(或亲水性纱线B)为本身具有亲水性的纱线或者为表面附着有亲水树脂的纱线,疏水性纱线为本身具有疏水性的纱线或者是表面附着有拒水树脂的纱线。
亲水性纱线A(或亲水性纱线B)为本身具有亲水性的纱线时,其纤维原料可以是棉、粘胶、聚酰胺(Ny)等中的一种或多种。
亲水性纱线A(或亲水性纱线B)为表面附着有亲水树脂的纱线时,其中亲水树脂是由强亲水性基团的单体经过适度交联后得到,并能够吸收上百倍甚至上千倍的水分的树脂,其种类没有特别限定,可以是水性聚氨酯树脂、水性丙烯酸树脂、水性聚酯树脂等。本发明中附着亲水树脂的纱线,其纤维原料可以是普通聚酯(PET)、聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯(PBT)、聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯(PTT)、阳离子改性聚酯(CDP)等中的一种或多种。
本发明中亲水性纱线A和亲水性纱线B的纤维原料可以相同也可以不相同。优选,亲水性纱线A和亲水性纱线B相同,均为表面附着有亲水树脂的纱线。
本发明中的疏水性纱线为表面附着有拒水树脂的纱线时,其纤维原料 可以是具有拒水性能的,这里的拒水树脂可以来自于石蜡类、有机硅类、碳化水素类、氟类等中的一种或多种。其中,氟类可以是碳4、碳6、碳8等。
本发明中的疏水性纱线为本身具有疏水性的纱线时,其纤维原料可以是PET、PBT、PTT、CDP、聚丙烯(PP)等中的一种或几种。其中PP纤维包括普通未改性PP纤维、可染PP纤维、有色PP纤维(色母粒着色)等。可染PP纤维是通过将可染色聚合物(聚酯类或者聚酰胺类等)均匀分散于PP树脂中,经挤出纺丝而得到。有色PP纤维是通过将色母粒与聚丙烯树脂以一定比例混合,经熔融纺丝制得。PP纤维为密度最小的化学纤维,特别是细旦PP纤维,具有超疏水性、低回潮率、强导湿性以及独特的芯吸效应,而且,PP纤维不易与常规亲水性化学药剂发生化学反应而结合变得亲水,也就是说即便是在后整理时进行亲水树脂加工,也不会影响其疏水性,因此作为优选。这些纤维原料可直接使用市售品,也可按照本领域的公知技术合成。
本发明的针织面料,优选为添纱组织或衬垫组织。其中,考虑到动态水分传递法指数性能,面料的着用平滑性和舒适性,优选添纱组织。
考虑到面料里面上的亲水部面积过大的话,有可能会影响到肌面干爽感;反之如果在里面上疏水部占主导的话,有可能出现汗液难以及时被吸收的现象。本发明中,优选,在无张力的状态下,面料里面上的疏水部与亲水部之间的面积比在1:1.0~4.0之间。更优选,两者的面积比为1:1.0~2.0。
作为优选,本发明面料的里面上,亲水性纱线比疏水性纱线的线长长。相较于疏水性纱线形成的线圈,亲水性纱线形成的线圈显得大而蓬松,这样的线圈形成亲水部贴近肌肤,在出汗时更利于吸汗排汗。本发明中,更优选亲水性纱线比疏水性纱线的线长长5%~15%。
本发明中,优选,表面的亲水性纱线B与里面的亲水性纱线A之间的单丝纤度比为1:1.1~4.0。更优选,表面的亲水性纱线B与里面的亲水性纱线A之间的单丝纤度比为1:2.0~3.5。由于表面纱线的单丝纤度比里面的单丝纤度细,表面纱线相对于里面纱线的单丝间隙(毛细管)更为致密,毛细管芯吸效果会更明显,因此里面的汗液也就越能够更好地传导到表面并迅速扩散。表面纱线的单丝纤度越细,越能形成足够小的单丝间的间隙(毛细管),吸水效果也就越好。
本发明中,优选,表面上的亲水性纱线B为50~150旦尼尔(简称为D)的长丝复丝或者30~80英支(简称为 S)的短纤纱。当选用小于50旦尼尔的长丝复丝或者比80 S细的短纤纱时,如果里纱使用较表纱粗的纱线的话,有可能会出现反丝等编织不良的问题,而且表里的分层变得不清晰,肌面干爽感有下降的趋势;如果里纱使用较表纱更细的纱线的话,虽然不会出现反丝的问题,但是由于所得面料比较薄,有可能会出现面料湿透粘附在皮肤上的问题。当选用大于150D的长丝复丝或者比30 S粗的短纤纱的话,如果里纱使用与表纱差不多粗细的纱线的话,表里层的分层变得不清晰,肌面干爽感有下降的趋势;而且所得面料较厚,用途受到限制。如果里纱使用比表纱更细的纱线的话,里层结构不明显,可能无法实现肌面的 汗处理,可能会影响到干爽感。
本发明的针织面料,可以是通过色纱织造获得,也可以通过坯布染色获得。这里的色纱可以是通过在纺丝过程中添加色母粒获得的原着纱,也可以是对本色纱染色制得的色纱,还可以是将纤维染色后纺制而成的色纺纱。
作为优选,本发明的针织面料经过10回洗涤后再向其里面滴下水滴时,测得其吸水时间为1秒内、动态水分传递法指数(MMT)为24点以上;且上述针织面料经过10回洗涤后的残留水分率在10%以内。MMT指数越高,残留水分率越低,速干性越好。
下面结合实施例及比较例对本发明进行进一步说明,但本发明的保护范围并不限于此。
本发明所涉及的参数的测试方法如下:
(1)亲水树脂(或拒水树脂)附着有无
在面料的任意部位剪取10cm×10cm的样布1块,拆开其中一部分的纱线,根据组织的区别标明表面纱线和里面纱线。接着利用走查式电子显微镜(SEM、日本岛津公司制)对拆得的各根纱线进行观察判断其表面是否附着有树脂。然后对附着有树脂的纱线作进一步分析,判断树脂的亲水性。具体如下:将6~8根的纱线目测无间隙地并排在一起形成纱束,从正上方1厘米处用滴管滴下一滴水,能够在60秒内把水完全吸收的话,则认为这些纱线上附着有亲水树脂;如果不能在60秒内把水完全吸收的话,则认为这些纱线上附着有拒水树脂。
(2)动态水分传递法指数(MMT)
参照GB/T21655.2-2009进行测试,并根据如下公式计算得到。动态水分传递法指数(MMT)=浸湿时间(级)+最大浸湿半径(级)+单向传递指数(级)×2。
(3)吸水性
参照JIS L1907滴下法(2010)。
(4)洗涤
参照JIS L0217-103法(1995)吊干×10回。
(5)残留水分率
在面料的任意部位剪取10cm×10cm的样布3块。称取其中1块样布的重量并记为M0,接着在该样布的里面上滴上0.3毫升的蒸馏水,称其重量并记为M1,然后每隔5分钟称重并分别记为M5,M10,M15……,一直记录到90分钟的重量M90。根据如下公式计算:残留水分率(%)={1-【(M60-M0)/(M1-M0)】}×100%。按照上记方法测试并计算出余下两块样布的残留水分率,取3块样布的平均值作为本发明的残留水分率。
(6)疏水部与亲水部之间的面积比
在面料的任意部位剪取10cm×10cm的样布3块。使用电子数码显微镜(KEYENCE公司制)在50倍率条件下对无张力状态的样布的里面进行观察。在相机模式下分别测量出1cm 2中疏水性纱线(相当于疏水部)所占面积以及亲水性纱线(相当于亲水部)所占面积,然后计算出面积比,每块样布上任取10处进行测量,共30组数据,取平均值作为本发明的疏水部与亲 水部之间的面积比。
实施例1
在单面圆编机上,4路喂纱口为一个组织循环。第1路喂纱口喂入150D-144f-PET假捻加工纱作为表纱、喂入线长为270mm/100个线圈,第2路喂入75D-48f-PET假捻加工纱作为里纱、喂入线长为140mm/100个线圈;第3路喂纱口喂入150D-144f-PET假捻加工纱作为表纱,喂入线长为270mm/100个线圈,第4路喂入75D-48f-拒水树脂加工的PET假捻加工纱作为里纱,表纱和里纱的喂入线长均为130mm/100个线圈,衬垫组织(见图2)进行编织得到坯布。然后将坯布经过精练(精练剂2g/L,精练条件:90℃×20分钟),染色(PET染色条件:分散型染料、130℃×40分钟),亲水树脂加工(水性聚酯树脂,华大浩宏公司制TWSOFT HS-TC,2%owf),整理定型,得到本发明的单面针织面料。具体参数见表1。
实施例2
在单面圆编机上,2路喂纱口为一个组织循环。第1路喂纱口喂入150D-144f-PET假捻加工纱作为表纱,75D-48f-PET假捻加工纱作为里纱、喂入线长为270mm/100个线圈;第2路喂纱口喂入150D-144f-PET假捻加工纱作为表纱,喂入75D-48f-拒水树脂加工的PET假捻加工纱作为里纱,喂入线长均为260mm/100个线圈,添纱组织(见图3)进行编织得到坯布,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的单面针织面料。具体参数见表1。
实施例3
在单面圆编机上,2路喂纱口为一个组织循环。第1路喂纱口喂入 100D-144f-PET假捻加工纱作为表纱、喂入线长为275mm/100个线圈;喂入50D-36f-PET假捻加工纱作为里纱、喂入线长为275mm/100个线圈。第2路喂纱口喂入100D-144f-PET假捻加工纱作为表纱,喂入线长为275mm/100个线圈;喂入50D-48f-着色PP假捻加工纱作为里纱,里纱的喂入线长为250mm/100个线圈,添纱组织进行编织得到坯布,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的单面针织面料。具体参数见表1。
实施例4
选用由CDP短纤维与普通PET短纤维形成的50 S混纺纱作为第1、2路的表纱,其余同实施例3,得到本发明的单面针织面料。具体参数见表1。
实施例5
选用50D-96f-PET假捻加工纱作为第1、2路的表纱,选用30D-24f-PET假捻加工纱作为第1路的里纱,选用30D-24f-着色PP假捻加工纱作为第2路的里纱,其余同实施例3,得到本发明的单面针织面料。具体参数见表1。
实施例6
选用40D-96f-PET假捻加工纱作为第1、2路的表纱,其余同实施例5,得到本发明的单面针织面料。具体参数见表1。
实施例7
选用200D-96f-PET假捻加工纱作为第1、3路的表纱,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的单面针织面料。具体参数见表1。
实施例8
选用由CDP短纤维与普通PET短纤维形成的80 S混纺纱作为第1、2路的表纱,其余同实施例5,得到本发明的单面针织面料。具体参数见表1。
实施例9
选用由CDP短纤维与普通PET短纤维形成的85 S混纺纱作为第1、2路的表纱,其余同实施例5,得到本发明的单面针织面料。具体参数见表1。
实施例10
选用由CDP短纤维与普通PET短纤维形成的30 S混纺纱作为第1、3路的表纱,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的单面针织面料。具体参数见表1。
实施例11
选用由CDP短纤维与普通PET短纤维形成的28 S混纺纱作为第1、3路的表纱,其余同实施例1,得到本发明的单面针织面料。具体参数见表1。
实施例12
第1路里纱PET假捻加工纱的喂入线长为260mm/100个线圈,第2路里纱着色PP假捻加工纱的喂入线长为280mm/100个线圈,其余同实施例3,得到本发明的单面针织面料。具体参数见表1。
实施例13
第1路喂纱口喂入100D-144f-Ny假捻加工纱作为表纱、喂入50D-36f-Ny假捻加工纱作为里纱;第2路喂纱口喂入100D-144f-Ny假捻加工纱作为表纱,喂入50D-48f-着色PP假捻加工纱作为里纱,不进行亲水树脂加工,其余同实施例3,得到本发明的单面针织面料。具体参数见表1。
实施例14
选用50D-72f-PET假捻加工纱作为第2路里纱,其余同实施例3,得到本发明的单面针织面料。具体参数见表1。
实施例15
第1路喂纱口喂入75D-48f-PET假捻加工纱作为里纱、喂入线长为275mm/100个线圈;第2路喂纱口喂入20D-12f-改性可染PP假捻加工纱作为里纱、喂入线长为275mm/100个线圈,其余同实施例3,得到本发明的单面针织面料。具体参数见表1。
比较例1
选用50D-36f-Ny假捻加工纱作为第1、2路的里纱,其余同实施例13,得到单面针织面料。具体参数见表1。
比较例2
选用50D-48f-着色PP假捻加工纱作为第1、2路的里纱,其余同实施例13,得到单面针织面料。具体参数见表1。
比较例3
在双面28针圆编机上,6路喂纱口为一个组织循环。第1、4路喂纱口喂入100D-144f-Ny假捻加工纱作为表纱、喂入线长为270mm/100个线圈;第2路喂入50D-36f-Ny假捻加工纱作为里纱,第5路喂入50D-48f-着色PP假捻加工纱作为里纱,喂入线长均为260mm/100个线圈;第3、6路喂纱口喂入100D-144f-Ny假捻加工纱作为表纱,喂入线长为295mm/100个线圈,其余同实施例1,得到双面针织面料。具体参数见表1。
表1
Figure PCTCN2019088218-appb-000001
根据表1,
(1)由实施例2和实施例1可知,同等条件下,添纱组织所得针织面料与衬垫组织所得面料相比,两者的吸水性相当,但前者的速干性(MMT指数高、残留水分率低)优于后者。
(2)由实施例3和实施例13可知,同等条件下,亲水性纱线为附着有亲水性树脂的PET纤维的面料与亲水性纱线为Ny纤维的面料相比,两者的吸水性相当,前者的速干性(MMT指数高、残留水分率低)优于后者。
(3)由实施例3和实施例12可知,同等条件下,编织时里面亲水性纱线线长长的面料与编织时里面疏水性纱线线长长的面料相比,前者的MMT指数低于后者、残留水分率略高于后者,而吸水性则明显优于后者。
(4)由实施例3和实施例14可知,同等条件下,表里亲水纱线单丝纤度比为1:2.0的面料与表里亲水纱线单丝纤度比为1:1的面料相比,前者的吸水性略优于后者,速干性(MMT指数高、残留水分率低)优于后者。
(5)由实施例8和实施例9可知,同等条件下,表面亲水性纱线B采用80 s短纤纱的面料与表面亲水性纱线B采用85 s短纤纱的面料相比,两者的吸水性相当,前者的MMT指数、残留水分率均略高于后者。
(6)由实施例10和实施例11可知,同等条件下,表面亲水性纱线B采用30 s短纤纱的面料与表面亲水性纱线B采用28 s短纤纱的面料相比,两者的吸水性相当,前者的速干性(MMT指数高、残留水分率低)略优于后者。
(7)由比较例1和实施例13可知,同等条件下,里面仅由亲水性纱线形成的面料与里面由亲水性纱线以及疏水性纱线形成的面料相比,两者的吸水性相当,但前者的速干性差(MMT指数小、残留水分率高)。
(8)由比较例2和实施例13可知,同等条件下,里面仅由疏水性纱线形成的面料与里面由亲水性纱线以及疏水性纱线形成的面料相比,前者吸水性很差。
(9)由比较例3和实施例13可知,同等条件下,双面组织的面料与单面添纱组织的面料相比,前者的速干性差(MMT指数小、残留水分率高)。

Claims (13)

  1. 一种单面针织面料,包括表面和里面,其特征是:所述针织面料为单面组织的纬编物,所述里面由疏水性纱线和亲水性纱线A沿纬向线圈相互间隔交替配列而成,且所述里面上设置有疏水部。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述单面针织面料,其特征是:所述表面由亲水性纱线B形成。
  3. 根据权利要求1或2所述单面针织面料,其特征是:所述针织面料为添纱组织或衬垫组织。
  4. 根据权利要求3所述单面针织面料,其特征是:所述针织面料为添纱组织。
  5. 根据权利要求1所述单面针织面料,其特征是:所述亲水性纱线A为本身具有亲水性的纱线或者为表面附着有亲水树脂的纱线,所述疏水性纱线为本身具有疏水性的纱线或者是表面附着有拒水树脂的纱线。
  6. 根据权利要求5所述单面针织面料,其特征是:所述亲水性纱线A为表面附着有亲水树脂的聚酯类纱线,所述疏水性纱线为聚丙烯类纱线。
  7. 根据权利要求1或2所述单面针织面料,其特征是:所述里面包括疏水部与吸水部,且两者的面积比为1:1.0~4.0。
  8. 根据权利要求1或2所述单面针织面料,其特征是:所述里面上,亲水性A纱线的线长比疏水性纱线的线长长。
  9. 根据权利要求2所述单面针织面料,其特征是:所述亲水性纱线B为本身具有亲水性的纱线或者为表面附着有亲水树脂的纱线。
  10. 根据权利要求9所述单面针织面料,其特征是:所述亲水性纱线B为 表面附着有亲水树脂的聚酯类纱线。
  11. 根据权利要求2所述单面针织面料,其特征是:所述表面上的亲水性纱线B与所述里面上的亲水性纱线A之间的单丝纤度比为1:1.1~4.0。
  12. 根据权利要求2所述单面针织面料,其特征是:所述表面上的亲水性纱线B为50~150旦尼尔的长丝复丝或者30~80英支的短纤纱。
  13. 根据权利要求1或2所述单面针织面料,其特征是:所述针织面料经过10回洗涤后再向其里面滴下水滴时,测得所述针织面料的吸水时间为1秒内、动态水分传递法指数为24点以上;且所述针织面料经过10回洗涤后,测得其残留水分率在10%以内。
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