WO2019126855A1

WO2019126855A1 - Cosmetic composition comprises licuri oil, use of the said composition and cosmetic method

Info

Publication number: WO2019126855A1
Application number: PCT/BR2018/050481
Authority: WO
Inventors: Bruno LUIZ OLIVEIRA; Simone ROCHTASCHEL FOSS; Larissa DA SILVA SPEHAR
Original assignee: Loccitane Do Brasil S.A.
Priority date: 2017-12-27
Filing date: 2018-12-26
Publication date: 2019-07-04
Also published as: BR102017028213A2; BR102017028213B1

Abstract

The present invention refers to the technological sector of cosmetics having as object a cosmetic composition comprising licuri oil and other components/excipients besides a vehicle cosmetically acceptable being presented particularly in the form of bath oil and cream in oil. Such cosmetic composition particularly of topical application comprises: - licuri oil; - at least one emollient being selected among: coconut- caprylate/caprate ether dicaprylic, ethylhexyl Isononanoate, methylphosphonofluoridate palmitate and combinations thereof; - a tocopherol derivative being preferably tocopherol acetate and - a vehicle cosmetically acceptable Furthermore, the present invention refers to the use of the said cosmetic composition and the cosmetic method of application of the same.

Description

Specification of Patent of Invention for “COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISES OIL FROM LICURI, USE OF THE SAID COMPOSITION AND COSMETIC METHOD”

TECHNOLOGY FIELD

[001]. The present invention refers to the technological sector of cosmetics having as object a cosmetic composition comprising licuri oil and other components/excipients besides a cosmetically acceptable vehicle being presented particularly in the form of bath oil or cream in oil for skin.

[002]. Furthermore, the present invention refers to the use of the said cosmetic composition and cosmetic method of application of it.

STATE OF THE ART

[003]. Bath oils and moisturizers for skin are creams or lotions prepared with greater amount of oil when compared with conventional products, so that they are used on wet skin, at the end of the bath, when the pores are more open, facilitating their absorption and allowing immediate effect. The bath oil when in contact with the water turns into a delicate foam that can clean gently the body so as to promote its moisturizing.

[004]. Currently, some products are known in this line, for example:

[005]. -Body oil white tea produced by Granado comprising oils and vitamin E in addition to other components/excipients;

[006]. -Body deodorant oil remarkable almonds Seve produced by Natura that comprises vegetable oils and offers 24 hour hydration for all skin types;

[007]. - Biphasic body oil Caramelito produced by O Boticario that provides hydration for up to 48 hours and contains caramel in its formula;

[008]. -Moisturizing Almond bath oil produced by L'Occitane, when in contact with water, becomes a delicate foam that gently cleans the body.

[009]. It is therefore seen that none of these products comprise licuri oil. Such oil is used for other purposes and combinations as can be seen from some teachings of the state of the art that refer to this matter and are commented out below:

[0010]. Document BR 10 2013 031058 1 describes a pharmaceutical composition that involves a method of promoting skin permeability of medication in addition to a cosmeceutical composition for skin hydration. Such compositions comprise oil of Syagrus Coronata in addition to specific agents and excipients.

[0011]. Document BR 1 104175 describes a liqueur that has as raw material licuri typical fruit of the semi-arid from the northeast made with formulations of licuri pulp and/or dried almond liqueur, ripe or cooked water-based and ethyl alcohol, with the addition of other ingredients and complementary substances.

[0012]. Document BR 0704745 discloses an ice cream produced from licuri pulp and/or almonds dried or boiled liquor based on water or milk, with the addition of other ingredients and substances to be subjected to freezing.

[0013]. Document BR 0617319 describes an excipient, in particular for the manufacture of topical cosmetic formulations that comprise:

[0014]. -Esters of polyols with saturated linear acids and unsaturated and/or branched linear acids,

[0015]. -Esters of linear saturated monounsaturated acids or branched with linear saturated alcohols,

[0016]. -Esters of linear acids saturated with alcohols mono-unsaturated linear or branched saturated,

[0017]. -free, saturated, linear and/or monunsaturated linear and/or branched saturated alcohols,

[0018]. -Esters of linear saturated acids and saturated linear alcohols,

[0019]. -saturated saturated or branched linear acid esters and monounsaturated or branched saturated linear alcohols, linear saturated acids and alcohols with at least 20 carbon atoms and acids and alcohols monounsaturated or branched with at least 18 carbon atoms.

[0020]. And the mixture can be a wax derivative obtained by reacting together at least one solid wax and at least one liquid wax in the presence of at least one polyol and solid wax can be wax ouicury. It is known that ouicury is a popular synonym naming to licuri.

[0021 ]. Thus, other state-of-the-art documents also mention cosmetic products that comprise wax of ouicury as an excipient, for example: BR0823493, BR0516637, BR0604706, BR0604682, BR0600308, BR0501 126, BR0718940, WO 2014/160892, RU 24401 12 and US 6,476,288.

[0022]. Further, Document BR 0402893 discloses the use of ouricuri oil to minimize the harmful effects of cytarabine In the intestinal mucosa of rats treated with this antineoplastic.

[0023]. Therefore, there is no technical solution disclosed in the current state of art that is equivalent to the one presented here in the present invention that combines technical differentials, economic advantages, safety and reliability.

[0024]. OBJECTIVES OF THE INVENTION

[0025]. Thus, it is an objective of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition that can be used as an oil or moisturizing bath with improved sensory properties.

[0026]. It is another of the objectives of this invention to provide a cosmetic composition that respects the skin hydrolipidic film while promoting its cleaning.

[0027]. It is another of the objectives of this invention to provide a cosmetic composition that offers satin finish.

[0028]. Further, it is another of the objectives of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition that can be applied to the skin with or without rinsing.

[0029]. It is one of the objectives of this invention to provide a cosmetic composition which comprises, in particular, at least one oil being 100% from vegetable source.

[0030]. It is one of the objectives of the present invention to provide a cosmetic composition that presents itself in cream form and turns into oil when rubbed into the skin.

[0031 ]. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

[0032]. The present invention achieves these and other objectives by means of a cosmetic composition particularly of topical application comprising:

[0033]. - Licuri oil;

[0034]. - By least one emollient being selected among: coconut- caprylate/caprate ether dicaprylic, ethylhexyl isononanoate, methylphosphonofluoridate palmitate and combinations thereof;

[0035]. - Tocopherol derivative being preferably tocopherol acetate and [0036]. - a vehicle cosmetically acceptable.

[0037]. The present invention achieves these and other objectives by means of use of the cosmetic composition described above for preparation of moisturizing for bathing to promote intensive hydration for skin.

[0038]. DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0039]. The present invention refers to a cosmetic composition particularly of topical application comprising:

[0040]. - Licuri oil;

[0041 ]. - By least one emollient being selected among: coconut- caprylate/caprate ether dicaprylic, ethylhexyl isononanoate, methylphosphonofluoridate palmitate and combinations thereof;

[0042]. - Tocopherol derivative being preferably tocopherol acetate and

[0043]. - A vehicle cosmetically acceptable

[0044]. Known as the sertaneja palm tree, licuri (Scientific name: Syagrus Coronata ) is also called by alicuri, aricui, adicuri, cabegudo, coqueiro-aracuri, coqueiro-dicuri, iricuri, oricuri, ouricurizeiro, uricuri and uricuriba.

[0045]. The palm tree can reach 1 1 meters high, its lined leaves appear to form a crown. The species can be found in the north of Minas Gerais, in the eastern and central portion of Bahia to the south of Pernambuco and also in the States of Sergipe and Alagoas.

[0046]. Every part of licuri can be used. The leaves are used in the craft manufacture of bags, hats, brooms, dusts, among others. The almond produces an oil used in cooking, similar to coconut oil, being also considered the best oil in the country for the manufacture of soap. The almond is also used in the manufacture of sweets, such as cocada, liqueurs and milk of Licuri, specialty of Bahian cuisine. The residues of almond oil extraction are employed in animal feed (Source: http://www.cerratinga.org.br/licuri/).

[0047]. Licuri Oil

[0048]. In a preferred embodiment, the oil of Licuri or Syagrus Coronata is prepared by performing the following steps:

Collection of licuri bunch direct from the palm tree and/or collection of licuri fallen on the floor for obtaining pulp; v' Pulp drying;

v' Withdrawal of fibers covering the seed (Separation) (Optional);

v' Manual or mechanical breakage of the seeds;

v' Obtaining almonds;

v' Controlled burn of the almonds (Optional);

Cold pressing;

Decantation for waste removal;

v' Filtration;

v' Obtaining Licuri oil;

Quality control and, if necessary, refining.

[0049]. The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises from 0.5% to 30.0%, by dry weight, preferably from 1 .0% to 15.0%, by dry weight, and more preferably from 1 .0% to 8.0%, by dry weight, of Licuri oil based on the total dry weight of the composition.

[0050]. Emollient

[0051 ]. They act on the epidermis through its hydrophobicity, preventing skin dehydration. The term derives from its action of keeping the tissues softer or softer.

[0052]. In the composition object of the present invention, at least one emollient is added thereto being selected from: cocon ut-caprylate/caprate ether dicaprylic, ethylhexyl isononanoate, methylphosphonofluoridate palmitate and combinations thereof;

[0053]. The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises from 0.5% to 90.0%, by dry weight, more preferably from 60.0% to 90.0% or from 1 .0% to 10.0%, by dry weight, of at least one emollient based on the total dry weight of the composition.

[0054]. Vitamin E

[0055]. The cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises from 0.01 % to 1 .00% by dry weight of at least one tocopherol derivative based on the total dry weight of the composition.

[0056]. Surfactant

[0057]. Also called surfactants, they are substances that decrease surface tension or influence the contact surface between two liquids. They are often called emulsifiers or emulates, i.e. substances that allow to achieve or maintain the emulsion.

[0058]. In the composition object of the present invention, optionally non-ionic, anionic or amphoteric surfactant are added.

[0059]. Optionally, the cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises from 1.0% to 10.0%, by dry weight, of at least one surfactant based on the total dry weight of the composition.

[0060]. The preferred surfactant to be added to this composition is laureth-2.

[0061 ]. Other components

[0062]. In preferred embodiments, some other components can be added to the composition of the present invention such as:

[0063]. - Silicone;

[0064]. -Solar filter;

[0065]. - Conservant/preservative;

[0066]. - Fragrance;

[0067]. - Dye;

[0068]. - PH adjuster;

[0069]. - Viscosity adjuster;

[0070]. - Antioxidant;

[0071 ]. - Thickening agent;

[0072]. - Deodorant agent;

[0073]. - Skin conditioner agent;

[0074]. - Sensory modifier;

[0075]. - Scavenger.

[0076]. The present invention presents several technical and economic advantages when compared to the state of the art, some of which are listed below:

[0077]. - it is a cosmetic composition that can be used as an oil or moisturizer for bathing with improved sensory properties;

[0078]. - depending on the combination of its components and their quantities, can be used with or without rinsing;

[0079]. - it is a cosmetic composition that respects the skin hydrolipidic film while promotes its cleanliness;

[0080]. - it offers satin finish;

[0081]. - it can be applied to any skin type;

[0082]. - it can also be used as a cream that becomes oil when applied to the skin;

[0083]. - it presents suitable texture for direct application to the skin;

[0084]. - it is a cosmetic composition comprising, in particular, at least one oily component being 100% of vegetable source;

[0085]. - it presents antioxidant activity;

[0086]. - it can be used in massage or as a product of the SPA line;

[0087]. - in a preferred embodiment, it is presented as cream that, when massed on the skin, turns into oil.

[0088]. Preparation process of the cosmetic composition of the present invention

[0089]. The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be prepared from any conventional known process. No need to use equipment, raw materials, operating parameters or any other complex characteristic, being of simple preparation.

[0090]. Examples of cosmetic makeup of the present invention

[0091 ]. Further, the present invention refers to a cosmetic method of application of the cosmetic composition of the present invention. This method comprises the following steps:

a) Select a skin area of the user's body;

b) Apply a portion of the cosmetic composition of the present invention;

c) Wait long enough to take effect.

[0092]. Tests

[0093]. Test 01 - Product Efficacy

[0094]. 30 Caucasian women with age-varying between 18 and 45 years were selected for this test. All of them presented the following skin types (Fitzpatrick): 10.0% Phototype II, 43.3% Phototype III and 46.7% Phototype IV. Further, 40.0% with dry skin and 60.0% with extra dry skin.

[0095]. The test was performed through the sensory analysis method by perceived efficacy with a questionnaire answered after the first application and after 28 days using the product at home and the cosmetic composition of the present invention in bath oil form was tested.

[0096]. As a result, the following responses were obtained:

After 28 days of treatment, you believe that...

As a final result, the volunteers presented satisfaction degree above 90%. [0097]. Test 02 - Product efficacy

[0098]. 31 Caucasian women of age ranging from 25 and 45 years were selected for this test. All of them presented dry skin or extra dry skin.

[0099]. The test was performed using the sensory analysis method by perceived efficacy with a questionnaire answered after the first application and after 28 days using the product at home.

[00100]. ^*The fortification of the skin barrier was evaluated by Evaporimetry Techinique. Biometric evaluation was performed on the forearms prior to application of the product, after 30 minutes of the first application and after 28 days of treatment.

[00101]. ^* Evaluation of efficacy through Corneometry - Using Corneometer, New Zealand CM825, performed with 19 women between 26 and 70 years old, with dry - extra dry skin during the period of 2h, 4h, 8h, 24h, 48h of application - the cosmetic composition of the present invention in the form of oil in cream was tested.

[00102]. As a result, the following responses were obtained:

After 28 days of treatment, you believe that...

[00103]. As a final result, the volunteers presented satisfaction above 94%.

[00104]. ^* TEWL Result: There was a significant reduction in the TEWL level of 2.5% after 30 minutes of the first application and 6.3% after 28 days of treatment compared to the standard. This indicated that the application of the product provided improvements in the skin barrier function. [00105]. ^* Corneal result: Hydration for 48 hours after the application of the product.

[00106]. Having been described an example of a preferred embodiment of the present invention, it should be understood that the scope of the present invention encompasses other possible variations of the inventive concept described, being limited only by the content of the claims including the possible equivalents.

Claims

1. Cosmetic composition particularly for topical application characterized by comprising:

- licuri oil;

- at least one emollient being selected among: coconut-caprylate/caprate ether dicaprylic, ethylhexyl isononanoate, methylphosphonofluoridate palmitate and combinations thereof;

- a tocopherol derivative being preferably tocopherol acetate and

- a vehicle cosmetically acceptable.

2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized by comprising from 0.5% to 30.0%, by dry weight, of licuri oil based on the dry weight of the total composition.

3. Composition according to any of claims 1 to 2 characterized by licuri oil being Syagrus Coronata oil.

4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3 characterized by comprising from 0.5% to 90.0%, by dry weight, of at least one emollient being selected among: coconut-caprylate/caprate ether dicaprylic, ethylhexyl isononanoate, methylphosphonofluoridate palmitate and combinations thereof.

5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 characterized by comprising from 0.1 % to 10.0%, by dry weight, of tocopherol derivative.

6. Use of cosmetic composition as defined in any of claims 1 to 5 characterized by being for preparation of a bath oil to promote intensive hydration of a user's skin.

7. Use of cosmetic composition as defined in any of claims 1 to 5 characterized by being for preparation of a bath oil to promote perfuming when applied to a user's skin.

8. Use of cosmetic composition as defined in any of claims 1 to 5 characterized by being for preparation of an oil to be used in massage on a user's skin.

9. Use of cosmetic composition as defined in any of claims 1 to 5 characterized by being for preparation of a cream that when applied on the skin of a user turns into oil moisturizing it.

10. Cosmetic method of applying cosmetic composition as defined in any of claims 1 to 5 characterized by comprising the following steps:

a) Selecting a skin area of the user's body;

b) Applying a portion of the cosmetic composition of the present invention;

c) Waiting long enough to take effect.