WO2019122852A1 - Tanning composition - Google Patents

Tanning composition Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019122852A1
WO2019122852A1 PCT/GB2018/053664 GB2018053664W WO2019122852A1 WO 2019122852 A1 WO2019122852 A1 WO 2019122852A1 GB 2018053664 W GB2018053664 W GB 2018053664W WO 2019122852 A1 WO2019122852 A1 WO 2019122852A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
skin
amount
present
tanning
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/GB2018/053664
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Dr Paul Done EVANS
Original Assignee
Pz Cussons Beauty Llp
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Pz Cussons Beauty Llp filed Critical Pz Cussons Beauty Llp
Publication of WO2019122852A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019122852A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34Alcohols
    • A61K8/345Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86Polyethers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/04Preparations for care of the skin for chemically tanning the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41Amines
    • A61K8/416Quaternary ammonium compounds

Definitions

  • the present invention is directed to a topical composition that produces a tanning or darkening effect on the skin.
  • the composition is particularly useful for use prior to showering or washing.
  • the composition includes and effectively delivers a tanning agent, such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA), to the skin.
  • DHA dihydroxyacetone
  • a tanned or darkened skin is desirable in many global markets and is considered fashionable or of giving a healthy appearance.
  • Natural tanning through exposure to Ultra Violet rays (UV) either in sunbathing or by the use of artificial Ultra Violet lamps or sun beds is widely practised, but there is a growing recognition of the longer term impacts of UV exposure such as premature skin-ageing and skin cancer. Therefore the market for products that darken the skin without exposure to UV is important and products in various formats have been developed and have been on the market for many years.
  • UV Ultra Violet rays
  • DHA dihydroxyacetone
  • the skin colouring effect of dihydroxyacetone (DHA) was discovered by chance in a childrens’ hospital where it was being used to treat diabetics who were more tolerant to DHA than glucose. Since that time the mode of action and consumer safety of DHA has been widely studied and there is a sizeable global market for self-tanning cosmetic products containing DHA which are seen as a safer tanning alternative than UV exposure through natural sunlight and sunbeds.
  • the skin colouration comes from a reaction of DHA with the amino acids and amino groups present in the surface layers of the stratum corneum to produce brownish pigments (melanoids) through the well-known Maillard type reaction. The melanoids produce a cosmetically appealing skin colour similar to that produced by UV exposure.
  • Self-tanning products containing tanning agents such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA)
  • DHA dihydroxyacetone
  • Such products are left on the skin to dry allowing the tanned appearance to develop.
  • the amount of development time can vary from 30 minutes to up to eight hours and typically self-tan products should be allowed to develop over 4-8 hours before showering off. But if the user wants a tan that is significantly darker, though, it is advisable to refrain from showering for as long as a whole day. That can seem difficult and unpleasant to many. In general for the self-tanning product to achieve the desired results the user should avoid getting the skin wet, e.g. swimming, sweating, steam rooms, showering, washing, for 4-8 hours after application.
  • composition described in this application seeks to overcome these barriers.
  • the present invention provides a composition that produces a desirable tanning effect even when showered off or washed almost immediately after application, so the composition of the present invention is particularly designed for use prior to showering or washing and effectively delivers a tanning agent, such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA), to the skin in a manner that the tanning reaction on the skin continues during and after showering or washing.
  • a tanning agent such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA)
  • the present invention provides a composition comprising:
  • the present invention provides a sunless or self-tanning product comprising the composition as defined in the first aspect of the invention.
  • the present invention provides a method of delivering a tanning agent to the skin of a user comprising the steps of: i) applying a composition as defined in the first aspect of the invention, and ii) allowing the composition to remain in contact with the skin for up to 5 minutes.
  • the composition of the invention comprises :
  • the invention provides a cosmetically acceptable sunless or self-tanning product composition by depositing a tanning agent onto the skin and creating a chemical reaction in the surface layers of the skin to produce a cosmetically desirable and even tanning or darkening effect on the skin.
  • the composition of the present invention includes and effectively delivers a tanning agent to the skin in a manner that adheres it to the skin such that the tanning reaction can continue even if the user showers or washes after application.
  • the user can wash/shower in a normal manner, typically 1 to 3 minutes after application and usually 1 minute after application.
  • composition described in the present invention is particularly suitable for use immediately prior to showering and can be showered off shortly after application.
  • Typical self-tanning products do not provide the expected results if the user washes or showers right after their application, showering/washing should be avoided for 4-8 hours after application.
  • the tanning agent surprisingly continues reacting with the skin during and after shower/washing to provide a tanning or darkening effect on the skin. Therefore the users can apply the composition of the present invention as part of a daily cleansing regime or getting ready routine and wash or shower after its application in the normal way.
  • composition is designed for use all over the body and face.
  • the tanning agent contained in the composition causes a chemical reaction in the surface layers of the skin of the user to produce the brown colouration.
  • the tanning agent (e.g. DHA) is present in the composition of the invention in an amount of 5 to 30% w/w.
  • the tanning agent may be present in the composition in an amount of 8 to 28% w/w, preferably 10 to 26% w/w, more preferably 15 to 25% w/w, for example 17 to 23 % w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the tanning agent may be present in an amount of up to 25%, for example 10 to 25%, 15 to 25% or 18 to 25%.
  • a suitable tanning agent is dihydroxyacetone (DHA).
  • the self-tanning composition of the invention may further comprise, in addition to DHA, one or more supplementary tanning agents such as erythrulose or melanin incorporated into the composition to adjust the colour depth, tone, natural appearance or quality of the developed skin colour.
  • one or more supplementary tanning agents such as erythrulose or melanin incorporated into the composition to adjust the colour depth, tone, natural appearance or quality of the developed skin colour.
  • the supplementary tanning agents may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount of 0.5 to 5% w/w, such as in an amount of 0.5 to 4% w/w or, 0.5 to 3% w/w or, 0.5 to 2% w/w, or 1 to 4% w/w, or 1 to 3% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition
  • the surfactants are used in the composition to stabilise the composition, aid even spreadability over the surface of the skin and optimise the mildness of the composition on the skin.
  • the combination of surfactant may also provide suitable foaming or lathering of the composition when applied to the skin, which makes it easier for the user to see where the composition has been applied and helps to achieve an even tan colouration on the skin.
  • the one or more surfactants are present in the composition in an amount of 3 to 20% w/w, preferably 3 to 18% w/w, more preferably 3 to l6%w/w, or 3 to 14% w/w, for example 5% to 18 w/w, or 5 to 16 % w/w, or 5 to 14 % w/w, or 7 to 18 % w/w, or 7 to 16 % w/w, or 7 to 14 % w/w, or 10 to 18 % w/w, or 10 to 16 % w/w, 10 to 14 % w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the one or more surfactants may comprise anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants or combinations thereof.
  • the composition of the present invention comprises a combination of at least two of these classes of surfactants.
  • the composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants present in an amount of 5 to 15% w/w, preferably 5 to 13% w/w, more preferably 5 to 11% w/w, for example from 6 to l5%w/w, or from 6 to 13% w/w, or from 6 to 1 1% w/w, or from 7 to 13% w/w, or from 7 to 11% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the anionic surfactant may comprise a carboxylate, a sulphate, a sulfosuccinate or a combination thereof.
  • the anionic surfactant may be a carboxylate.
  • suitable carboxylates include sodium polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylate, sodium Cl 2- 15 pareth-l2 xarboxylate and sodium laureth-l3 carboxylate.
  • the anionic surfactant may be a sulphate.
  • suitable sulphates include sodium laureth sulphate, sodium myreth sulphate and ammonium lauryl sulphate.
  • the anionic surfactant may be a sulphosuccinate.
  • suitable sulphosuccinates include diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate and disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate.
  • the composition comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants.
  • the amphoteric surfactant may be present in an amount of 1 to 8% w/w, preferably 1 to 6%w/w, more preferably 1 to 4% w/w, for example from 2 to 8%w/w, or from 2 to 6% w/w, or from 2 to 4% w/w, or from 3 to 8% w/w, or from 3 to 6% w/w, or from 3 to 5% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Suitable amphoteric surfactants include capryl/capram idopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium lauriminodipropionate.
  • the amphoteric surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine.
  • the amphoteric surfactant acts as a composition stabiliser and assists in the provision of lathering to aid rinsing.
  • the composition comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants.
  • the non-ionic surfactant may be present in an amount of 0 to 6% w/w, preferably 0 to 5% w/w, more preferably 0 to 4% w/w, for example of 0 to 3% w/w, or 0 to 2% w/w, or 0.5 to 6% w/w, or 0.5 to 4%w/w, or 0.5 to 3% w/w, or 0.5 to 2% w/w, or 1 to 4% w/w, or 1 to 3% w/w, or 1.5 to 6% w/w, or 1.5 to 5% w/w, or 1.5 to 3% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Suitable non-ionic surfactants include lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside and coco-glucoside.
  • the non-ionic surfactant is coco-glucoside.
  • the non-ionic surfactant acts as a composition stabiliser and provides lathering to aid rinsing.
  • composition comprises any combination of the above mentioned surfactants.
  • the composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant and/or at least one non-ionic surfactant.
  • the composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant.
  • the anionic surfactant may be sodium laureth sulphate and the amphoteric surfactant may be cocamidopropyl betaine.
  • the composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one non-ionic surfactant.
  • the anionic surfactant may be sodium laureth sulphate, the amphoteric surfactant may be cocamidopropyl betaine and the non-ionic surfactant may be coco-glucoside.
  • the composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant and at least one non-ionic surfactant.
  • the anionic surfactant may be sodium laureth sulphate and the non-ionic surfactant may be coco-glucoside.
  • the one or more delivery agents may be present in the composition in an amount of 1 to 20% w/w, such as in an amount of 1 to 18% w/w, or 1 to 16% w/w, or 1 to 14% w/w.
  • the composition comprises one or more delivery agents in an amount of 2 to 18% w/w, or 2 to 16% w/w, or 3 to 18% w/w, or 3 to 16% w/w, or 4 to 18% w/w, or 4 to 16% w/w, or 4 to 15% w/w, or 5 to 18% w/w, or 5 to 16% w/w, or 5 to 14% w/w, based on the total weight of the self-tanning composition.
  • the one or more delivery agents may comprise one or more penetration enhancers, solvents, moisturising agents or combinations thereof.
  • the delivery agents may comprise two or more materials, for example, the composition of the present invention may comprise a combination of one or more penetration enhancers, one or more solvents and one or more moisturising agents.
  • the delivery agents may comprise one or more solvents and one or more moisturising agents.
  • composition may comprise materials which enhance the delivery of the tanning agents into the stratum corneum.
  • penetration enhancers can allow the use of lower levels of tanning agents and consequently lower consumer exposure.
  • the penetration enhancer may be present in the self-tanning composition in an amount of 1 to 10% w/w, such as in an amount of 1 to 9% w/w, or 1 to 8% w/w.
  • the composition comprises a penetration enhancer in an amount of 2 to 10% w/w or, 2 to 10% w/w or, 3 to 10% w/w or, 2 to 9% w/w or, 3 to 8% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • suitable penetration enhancers include materials such as polyols including propylene glycol, glycerine, pentylene glycol or butylene glycol; fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, strearyl alcohol; fatty acids such as oleic acid, stearic acid; polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ethers such as PPG-5-Ceteth-20; and isosorbides such as dimethylisosorbide.
  • the composition may contain 1 to 12% of a solvent, preferably 2 to 10% and more preferably 2 to 8% to aid the penetration of the tanning agents.
  • the composition comprises a solvent in an amount of 1 to 10% w/w, or 1 to 8% w/w, or 1 to 6% w/w, or 2 to 6 % w/w, or 2 to 4% w/w, or 3 to 8% w/w, or 3 to 6% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Suitable solvents may comprise PPG-5-Ceteth-20, isopentyldiol, diraethy!ssosorbide or a combination therefore.
  • the solvent is a combination of PPG-5-Ceteth- 20 and isopentyldiol
  • the moisturising agents act to deliver the tanning reaction and enhance the performance aspect of the invention.
  • the moisturising agents provide moisture to enable the tanning reaction to take place efficiently and also aid the penetration of the DHA into stratum corneum to deliver the desired even streak-free tan.
  • moisturising agents counteract the drying effect of the DHA tanning reaction on the skin and it contributes to the texture and cosmetic appeal of the composition.
  • the one or more moisturising agents may be present in the composition in an amount of 1 to 15% w/w, such as in an amount of 1 to 12% w/w, or 1 to 10% w/w, or 1.5 to 10% w/w, or 2 to 10% w/w, or 2 to 8% w/w, or 3 to 10% w/w, or 3 to 8% w/w, based on the total weight of the self-tanning composition.
  • the composition may contain from 2 to 15% of one or more moisturising agents, preferably from 5 to 12% and more preferably from 8 to 10%.
  • Moisturising agents may include propylene glycol, glycerine, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol or combinations thereof.
  • Delivery agents such as polyols may act as solvent and penetration enhancer but also can act as moisturising agent.
  • the delivery agents of the composition of the present invention comprises a combination of propylene glycol and glycerine in a total amount from 3 to 15%, preferably 5 to 12% and more preferably 8 to 1 1 %, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention includes materials which can be classed as film formers, these help the adhesion of the tanning agents (DHA) to the skin and in addition produce a semi-water-proofing effect which maintains the tanning agent in contact with the skin during and after showering (enabling the tanning reaction to continue post-showering).
  • DHA tanning agents
  • the one or more film forming agents may be present in the composition in an amount of 0. 1 to 4% w/w, such as in an amount of 0. 1 to 3 % w/w, or 0. 1 to 2% w/w, or 0. 1 to 1.5% w/w, or 0. 1 to 1 % w/w.
  • the composition comprises one or more film forming agents in an amount of 0.2 to 4% w/w, or 0.3 to 4% w/w, or 0.5 to 4% w/w, or 0.2 to 3% w/w, or 0.2 to 2% w/w, or 0.2 to 1 % w/w, or 0.3 to 3% w/w, or 0.3 to 2% w/w, or 0.3 to 1.5% w/w, or 0.5 to 3% w/w, or 0.5 to 2% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Typical materials which can be used as film forming agent comprise mineral oils, natural fruit based oils such as almond oil, avocado oil (and many others), silicone oils, POLOXAMER 338, PPG- 12/SMDI COPOLYMER and combinations thereof.
  • Typical silicone materials which could form effective film forming properties can be selected from trimethylsiloxysilicate, cyclopentasiloxan, trimethylsiloxysilicate, trimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, cyclopentasiloxane, trimethylsiloxysilicate/dimethiconol crosspolymer, dimethicone, trimethylsiloxysilicate/dimethiconol crosspolymer and combinations thereof.
  • a particularly effective material is a high viscosity silicone oil (e.g. > l20xl 06mm 2 /s at 0.0 lHz) that is pre-combined to produce a non-ionic emulsion which allows a high level of high molecular weight silicone oil to be incorporated into a low viscosity water based product, which may be typically 1 - 10,000 centipoise or more typically ⁇ 2,000centipoise (Brookfield DV 1MLV viscometer at 20°C).
  • the film forming agent may be selected from almond oil, avocado oil, divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer, POLOXAMER 338, PPG-12/SMDI COPOLYMER and combinations thereof.
  • the film former in the composition of the present invention is a combination material comprised of POLOXAMER 338 and PPG-12/SMDI COPOLYMER.
  • This material has the interesting property of increasing thickness as temperature increases. It can therefore be incorporated into the composition and remains liquid at room temperature but increases in thickness (which aids adhesion to the skin) when the temperature is increased e.g. at body temperature and during typical water temperatures of showering (ca. 35-40°C).
  • the film forming agent comprises POLOXAMER 338, PPG- 12/SMDI COPOLYMER or a combination thereof, preferably at 0.1 to 2% w/w, or 0.2 to 2% w/w, or 0.5 to 1.7% w/w, or 0.1 to 1.5% w/w, or 0.1 to 1% w/w, or 0.1 to 0.8%, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the film forming agent comprises a combination of a silicone oil or material, POLOXAMER 338 and PPG-12/SMDI COPOLYMER preferably at 0.1 to 2% w/w, or 0.5 to 2% w/w, or 1 to 2% w/w, or 0.5 to 1.5% w/w, or 1.2 to 2% w/w, or 1.2 to 1.7% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the film forming agent comprises divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer, POLOXAMER 338 and PPG-12/SMDI COPOLYMER, preferably at 0.1 to 2% w/w, or 0.5 to 2% w/w, or 1 to 2% w/w, 1.2 to 2% w/w, or 0.5 to 1.7% w/w, or 1 to 1.7% w/w, or 1.2 to 1.7% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention also contains skin conditioning agents or soothers which add to the cosmetic appeal of the product and improve the final complexion.
  • the one or more skin condition or soothing agent is present in the composition in an amount from 0.1 to 1% w/w, such as in an amount from 0.1 to 0.8% w/w, or from 0.1 to 0.6% w/w, or from 0.1 to 0.5% w/w, or from 0.2 to 1% w/w, or from 0.2 to 0.8% w/w, or from 0.3 to 1% w/w, or from 0.3 to 0.8% w/w, or from 0.3 to 0.6% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • Typical skin condition or soothing agents that could be included in the composition include natural oils, mineral oils, allantoin, betaine, humectants (such as hyaluronic acid), decylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and combinations thereof.
  • the one or more skin conditioning or soothing agents comprises betaine.
  • composition of the present invention also comprises materials which act as thickeners, preservatives, stabilising agents and combinations thereof. These do not contribute to the efficacy of the product but do enable a safe and usable product to be delivered to the consumer.
  • the thickeners, preservatives, stabilising agents or combinations thereof may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1 to 3% w/w, such as in an amount of 0.5 to 3% w/w, or 1 to 3% w/w.
  • the composition comprises one or more thickeners, preservatives, stabilising agents and combination thereof in an amount of 0.1 to 2.5% w/w, 0.1 to 2% w/w, or 0.3 to 2.5% w/w, or 0.3 to 2% w/w, or 0.3 to 1.5% w/w, or 0.5 to 2.5% w/w, or 0.5 to 2% w/w, or 1 to 2% w/w, based on the total weight of the self-tanning composition.
  • the thickeners may comprise hydroxyethylcellulose, sodium chloride and a combination thereof.
  • Suitable cosmetic preservatives include antimicrobial agents such as phenoxyethanol, DMDM hydantoin, paraben esters imidazolidinyl urea or any other antimicrobial agents particularly suitable for cosmetic use.
  • the preservative comprises an antimicrobial to protect the composition against the risk of microbial contamination.
  • antimicrobials are included in the composition at up to 1.0% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • a chemist skilled in the art of cosmetic product development and preservation would select an antimicrobial system appropriate for the composition and the microbial challenge.
  • Suitable antimicrobials may include one or more of paraben esters (methyl , ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl) at 0. 1 -0.3% w/w in combination; DMDM hydantoin at concentration of 0.
  • the stabilising agent may comprise materials commonly used to stabilise cosmetic products.
  • the stabilising agent may comprise one or more chelating agents such as disodium EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid), sodium gluconate and/or one or more antioxidant materials (e.g. sodium metabisulphite, tocopherol (vitamin E)) .
  • the stabilising agent comprises one or more antioxidants such as sodium metabisulphite, tocopherol (vitamin E), or another suitable antioxidant for cosmetic products.
  • the composition comprises sodium metabisulphite and tocopherol.
  • the antioxidant is present in the composition in an amount from 0. 1 to 2% w/w, or from 0. 1 to 1.5% w/w, such as in an amount from 0. 1 to 1 % w/w, or from 0. 1 to 0.8% w/w e.g. from 0.2 to 2% w/w, or from 0.2 to 1.5% w/w, or from 0.2 to 1 % w/w, or from 0.3 to 2 % w/w, or from 0.3 to 2% w/w, or from 0.3 to 1 % w/w, based on the total weight of the self-tanning composition.
  • the antioxidant comprises sodium metabisulphite at 0.3 to 0.4% w/w and tocopherol 0.05 to 0.5 % w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the self-tanning composition may also include a cosmetically acceptable fragrance.
  • the cosmetically acceptable fragrance is present in the self tanning composition in an amount from 0.01 to 1 .5% w/w, such as in an amount from 0.01 to 1 % w/w, e.g. from 0.01 to 0.8% w/w, or from 0. 1 to 1 .5% w/w, or from 0. 1 to 1 % w/w, or from 0. 1 to 0.8% w/w, or from 0.3 to 1 % w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may optionally comprise one or more cosmetic colours which act as a guide to the user to highlight where the product has been applied and the evenness of the coverage. These act as a tool to improve the quality of the final tan skin colouration.
  • Suitable cosmetic colours which can be used to produce a brown colouration could be natural caramel or a combination of colours such as Red No4 (CI14700), Yellow No5 & Blue No l blended to produce an acceptable brown colour.
  • composition of the present invention when used as described, the cosmetic guide colours are washed off in the shower.
  • compositions of the present invention produce a tanning or darkening effect on the skin such compositions are also known as self-tanning compositions, sunless compositions or tanning compositions.
  • Leave-on self-tanning products typically contain cosmetic pigments which act as a ‘guide’ colour and are used to highlight which parts of the body have been covered or not. These ‘guide’ colours can stain clothing and bedclothes if not allowed to dry properly.
  • This problem does not occur.
  • the DHA reaction with the skin produces a slightly unpleasant odour (to most people) which is characteristic of these products. By applying the product before the shower the noticeability of this odour is minimised.
  • composition in this invention addresses these aims.
  • composition of the present invention does not need to include cosmetic pigments used as a‘guide’ colour.
  • the composition of the present invention produces a foam or a lather - which makes easier to see where the composition has been applied and can act as a‘guide’ or visual aid to help ensure even coverage all over the desired tanning area. Therefore, in the composition of the present invention the presence of cosmetic pigments which act as a‘guide’ colour is optional.
  • the composition of the present invention does not contain cosmetic pigments, which act as a‘guide’ colour.
  • the composition of the present invention therefore avoids the need for cosmetic guide colours to be included in the composition because the foam or lather produced during application of the composition can act as a visual aid to ensure an even coverage and tan colouration of the skin.
  • composition is preferably allowed to remain in contact with the skin for 1 to 5 minutes, preferably 1 to 3 minutes, more preferably 1 minute.
  • the composition may then be rinsed off the skin by showering, bathing or washing.
  • the composition may be lathered before wash or shower.
  • the shower after application of the composition can be done in the normal way and any shower gel or cleaning product may be used to shower.
  • composition of the invention delivers an amount of tanning agent, such as DHA, sufficient to produce a tanned appearance when used as directed in this way.
  • tanning agent such as DHA
  • composition is cosmetically acceptable, pleasant to use and does not require waiting more than 1-5 minutes, preferably 1 minute, before the user can shower or wash.
  • development reaction/tanning reaction on the skin after application of the composition of the present invention is not altered by exposure to water or showering products and can continue after showering/washing.
  • the composition With regular use before showering, the composition produces an even, natural looking tan colouration of the skin.
  • the product has cosmetically acceptable properties and is pleasant to use.
  • the product spreads evenly and easily across the skin and also produces a foam or lather to enable easy rinsing off the skin and visibility of where the product has been applied.
  • the present invention provides a method of delivering a tanning agent to the skin of a user comprising the steps of: applying a composition of the first aspect of the invention to the skin; and allowing the composition to remain in contact with the skin for up to 5 minutes.
  • the method further comprises subjecting the skin to exposure to water, e.g. warm water, after applying a composition of the invention to the skin.
  • the step of subjecting the skin to exposure to water may comprise showering or washing. showering can be conducted in the normal way with any cleansing product.
  • the composition is preferably applied evenly over the skin.
  • composition is preferably allowed to remain in contact with the skin for 1 to 5 minutes, preferably 1 to 4 minutes, more preferably 1 to 3 minutes, for example 1, 2 or 3 minutes.
  • composition of the first aspect of the invention delivers an amount of tanning agent, such as DHA, sufficient to produce a tanned appearance even if the user showers or washes right after its application on the skin.
  • the composition is cosmetically acceptable and pleasant to use.
  • composition is stable and meets the normal demands of the cosmetic market.
  • product should meets the intended physical, chemical and microbiological quality standards as well as functionality and aesthetics when stored under appropriate conditions.
  • the present invention also provides a new method of applying a self-tanning composition or skin tanning agent which gives an improved, streak free and natural looking tan without the need for a guide colour.
  • Embodiments of the invention are described by means of the example compositions below.
  • the example compositions are purely illustrative and are not intended to limit the scope of protection in any way.
  • Examples of com of the invention include:
  • Example 1 Composition I
  • a composition according to the invention was tested in an independent 2 week consumer user trial of 100 panellists to demonstrate the benefits of the composition.
  • the panellists used the composition several times during the study and the instructions were to apply the composition and leave on the skin for 1 minute before showering in a normal manner.

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Abstract

The invention relates to a composition comprising 5 to 30% w/w of a skin tanning agent; 3 to 20% w/w of one or more surfactants; 1 to 20% w/w of one or more delivery agents; 0.1 to 4% w/w of one or more film forming agents; 0.1 to 1% w/w of one or more skin conditioning or soothing agents; 0.1 to 3% w/w of one or more thickeners, preservatives, stabilising agents or combinations thereof; and water. Also provided is a sunless or self-tanning product comprising the composition and a method of delivering a tanning agent to the skin of a user.

Description

TANNING COMPOSITION
Field of the Invention
The present invention is directed to a topical composition that produces a tanning or darkening effect on the skin. The composition is particularly useful for use prior to showering or washing. The composition includes and effectively delivers a tanning agent, such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA), to the skin.
Background of the Invention
A tanned or darkened skin is desirable in many global markets and is considered fashionable or of giving a healthy appearance. Natural tanning through exposure to Ultra Violet rays (UV) either in sunbathing or by the use of artificial Ultra Violet lamps or sun beds is widely practised, but there is a growing recognition of the longer term impacts of UV exposure such as premature skin-ageing and skin cancer. Therefore the market for products that darken the skin without exposure to UV is important and products in various formats have been developed and have been on the market for many years.
The skin colouring effect of dihydroxyacetone (DHA), a natural sugar type molecule, was discovered by chance in a childrens’ hospital where it was being used to treat diabetics who were more tolerant to DHA than glucose. Since that time the mode of action and consumer safety of DHA has been widely studied and there is a sizeable global market for self-tanning cosmetic products containing DHA which are seen as a safer tanning alternative than UV exposure through natural sunlight and sunbeds. The skin colouration comes from a reaction of DHA with the amino acids and amino groups present in the surface layers of the stratum corneum to produce brownish pigments (melanoids) through the well-known Maillard type reaction. The melanoids produce a cosmetically appealing skin colour similar to that produced by UV exposure.
Self-tanning products containing tanning agents, such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA), have been marketed for many years in various topical application formats such as lotions, mousses, creams and sprays. Such products are left on the skin to dry allowing the tanned appearance to develop.
However, there are several barriers and drawbacks with current self-tanning products which are well known to prevent consumers from using these products and limit their market potential.
These barriers to the use of self-tanning products are:
1. Some consumers find the time required to apply self-tan products (application time), and the development time an undesirable aspect. The amount of development time can vary from 30 minutes to up to eight hours and typically self-tan products should be allowed to develop over 4-8 hours before showering off. But if the user wants a tan that is significantly darker, though, it is advisable to refrain from showering for as long as a whole day. That can seem difficult and unpleasant to many. In general for the self-tanning product to achieve the desired results the user should avoid getting the skin wet, e.g. swimming, sweating, steam rooms, showering, washing, for 4-8 hours after application.
2. Products containing DHA produce a characteristic unpleasant odour which is produced by the Maillard reaction. This odour cannot be removed, but product developers’ work to mask the odour produced using specially designed fragrance ingredients. This unpleasant odour can put off some consumers from using these products.
3. Current cosmetic products containing DHA often produce an uneven or streaky tan appearance on the skin as the tanning reaction relies on the user to evenly spread the cosmetic product onto the area of skin to be tanned. Showering can help to even out the color and rinse off the excess product, but the skin needs the proper time to develop the tan (4-8 hours) before is exposed to showering or washing.
4. As an aid to producing an even tan colouration, most self-tan products contain cosmetic pigments which act as a‘guide’ colour and are visible on the skin. These are a visual aid to help ensure even coverage all over the desired tanning area and are showered off typically about eight hours after application. The user must allow the product to dry before dressing or getting into bed to avoid staining of clothes or bedsheets. The tanning regime can therefore be time consuming.
The composition described in this application seeks to overcome these barriers.
The present invention provides a composition that produces a desirable tanning effect even when showered off or washed almost immediately after application, so the composition of the present invention is particularly designed for use prior to showering or washing and effectively delivers a tanning agent, such as dihydroxyacetone (DHA), to the skin in a manner that the tanning reaction on the skin continues during and after showering or washing.
Summary of the Invention
In a first aspect, the present invention provides a composition comprising:
5 to 30% w/w of a skin tanning agent;
3 to 20% w/w of one or more surfactants;
1 to 20% w/w of one or more delivery agents;
0.1 to 4% w/w of one or more film forming agents;
0.1 to 1% w/w of one or more skin conditioning or soothing agents;
0.1 to 3% w/w of one or more thickeners, preservatives, stabilising agents or combinations thereof; and
water.
In a second aspect, the present invention provides a sunless or self-tanning product comprising the composition as defined in the first aspect of the invention.
In a third aspect, the present invention provides a method of delivering a tanning agent to the skin of a user comprising the steps of: i) applying a composition as defined in the first aspect of the invention, and ii) allowing the composition to remain in contact with the skin for up to 5 minutes.
Detailed description of the invention The invention provides a cosmetically acceptable sunless or self-tanning product composition. In a first aspect, the composition of the invention comprises :
5 to 30% w/w of a skin tanning agent;
3 to 20% w/w of one or more surfactants;
1 to 20% w/w of one or more delivery agents;
0.1 to 4% w/w of one or more film forming agents;
0. 1 to 1 % w/w of one or more skin conditioning or soothing agents;
0. 1 to 3% w/w of one or more thickeners, preservatives, stabilising agents or combinations thereof; and
water.
The invention provides a cosmetically acceptable sunless or self-tanning product composition by depositing a tanning agent onto the skin and creating a chemical reaction in the surface layers of the skin to produce a cosmetically desirable and even tanning or darkening effect on the skin.
The composition of the present invention includes and effectively delivers a tanning agent to the skin in a manner that adheres it to the skin such that the tanning reaction can continue even if the user showers or washes after application. After application of the composition according to the invention the user can wash/shower in a normal manner, typically 1 to 3 minutes after application and usually 1 minute after application.
Therefore, the composition described in the present invention is particularly suitable for use immediately prior to showering and can be showered off shortly after application.
Typical self-tanning products do not provide the expected results if the user washes or showers right after their application, showering/washing should be avoided for 4-8 hours after application. However with the composition of the present invention the tanning agent surprisingly continues reacting with the skin during and after shower/washing to provide a tanning or darkening effect on the skin. Therefore the users can apply the composition of the present invention as part of a daily cleansing regime or getting ready routine and wash or shower after its application in the normal way.
The composition is designed for use all over the body and face.
The tanning agent contained in the composition causes a chemical reaction in the surface layers of the skin of the user to produce the brown colouration.
The tanning agent (e.g. DHA) is present in the composition of the invention in an amount of 5 to 30% w/w. The tanning agent may be present in the composition in an amount of 8 to 28% w/w, preferably 10 to 26% w/w, more preferably 15 to 25% w/w, for example 17 to 23 % w/w, based on the total weight of the composition. The tanning agent may be present in an amount of up to 25%, for example 10 to 25%, 15 to 25% or 18 to 25%.
A suitable tanning agent is dihydroxyacetone (DHA).
The self-tanning composition of the invention may further comprise, in addition to DHA, one or more supplementary tanning agents such as erythrulose or melanin incorporated into the composition to adjust the colour depth, tone, natural appearance or quality of the developed skin colour.
The supplementary tanning agents (e.g. erythrulose or melanin ) may be present in the composition of the invention in an amount of 0.5 to 5% w/w, such as in an amount of 0.5 to 4% w/w or, 0.5 to 3% w/w or, 0.5 to 2% w/w, or 1 to 4% w/w, or 1 to 3% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition
The surfactants are used in the composition to stabilise the composition, aid even spreadability over the surface of the skin and optimise the mildness of the composition on the skin. In addition, the combination of surfactant may also provide suitable foaming or lathering of the composition when applied to the skin, which makes it easier for the user to see where the composition has been applied and helps to achieve an even tan colouration on the skin. In one embodiment the one or more surfactants are present in the composition in an amount of 3 to 20% w/w, preferably 3 to 18% w/w, more preferably 3 to l6%w/w, or 3 to 14% w/w, for example 5% to 18 w/w, or 5 to 16 % w/w, or 5 to 14 % w/w, or 7 to 18 % w/w, or 7 to 16 % w/w, or 7 to 14 % w/w, or 10 to 18 % w/w, or 10 to 16 % w/w, 10 to 14 % w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
The one or more surfactants may comprise anionic surfactants, non-ionic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants or combinations thereof. Preferably the composition of the present invention comprises a combination of at least two of these classes of surfactants.
In one embodiment, the composition comprises one or more anionic surfactants present in an amount of 5 to 15% w/w, preferably 5 to 13% w/w, more preferably 5 to 11% w/w, for example from 6 to l5%w/w, or from 6 to 13% w/w, or from 6 to 1 1% w/w, or from 7 to 13% w/w, or from 7 to 11% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
The anionic surfactant may comprise a carboxylate, a sulphate, a sulfosuccinate or a combination thereof.
In one embodiment the anionic surfactant may be a carboxylate. Examples of suitable carboxylates include sodium polyoxyethylene alkyl ether carboxylate, sodium Cl 2- 15 pareth-l2 xarboxylate and sodium laureth-l3 carboxylate.
In one embodiment the anionic surfactant may be a sulphate. Examples of suitable sulphates include sodium laureth sulphate, sodium myreth sulphate and ammonium lauryl sulphate.
In one embodiment the anionic surfactant may be a sulphosuccinate. Examples of suitable sulphosuccinates include diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate and disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate.
In one embodiment the composition comprises one or more amphoteric surfactants. The amphoteric surfactant may be present in an amount of 1 to 8% w/w, preferably 1 to 6%w/w, more preferably 1 to 4% w/w, for example from 2 to 8%w/w, or from 2 to 6% w/w, or from 2 to 4% w/w, or from 3 to 8% w/w, or from 3 to 6% w/w, or from 3 to 5% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
Suitable amphoteric surfactants include capryl/capram idopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine and sodium lauriminodipropionate. In one embodiment the amphoteric surfactant is cocamidopropyl betaine. The amphoteric surfactant acts as a composition stabiliser and assists in the provision of lathering to aid rinsing.
In one embodiment the composition comprises one or more non-ionic surfactants. The non-ionic surfactant may be present in an amount of 0 to 6% w/w, preferably 0 to 5% w/w, more preferably 0 to 4% w/w, for example of 0 to 3% w/w, or 0 to 2% w/w, or 0.5 to 6% w/w, or 0.5 to 4%w/w, or 0.5 to 3% w/w, or 0.5 to 2% w/w, or 1 to 4% w/w, or 1 to 3% w/w, or 1.5 to 6% w/w, or 1.5 to 5% w/w, or 1.5 to 3% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
Suitable non-ionic surfactants include lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside and coco-glucoside. In one embodiment the non-ionic surfactant is coco-glucoside. The non-ionic surfactant acts as a composition stabiliser and provides lathering to aid rinsing.
In one embodiment the composition comprises any combination of the above mentioned surfactants.
In one embodiment the composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant and/or at least one non-ionic surfactant.
In one embodiment the composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant and at least one amphoteric surfactant. The anionic surfactant may be sodium laureth sulphate and the amphoteric surfactant may be cocamidopropyl betaine.
In one embodiment the composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric surfactant and at least one non-ionic surfactant. The anionic surfactant may be sodium laureth sulphate, the amphoteric surfactant may be cocamidopropyl betaine and the non-ionic surfactant may be coco-glucoside. In one embodiment the composition comprises at least one anionic surfactant and at least one non-ionic surfactant. The anionic surfactant may be sodium laureth sulphate and the non-ionic surfactant may be coco-glucoside.
The one or more delivery agents may be present in the composition in an amount of 1 to 20% w/w, such as in an amount of 1 to 18% w/w, or 1 to 16% w/w, or 1 to 14% w/w. Preferably the composition comprises one or more delivery agents in an amount of 2 to 18% w/w, or 2 to 16% w/w, or 3 to 18% w/w, or 3 to 16% w/w, or 4 to 18% w/w, or 4 to 16% w/w, or 4 to 15% w/w, or 5 to 18% w/w, or 5 to 16% w/w, or 5 to 14% w/w, based on the total weight of the self-tanning composition.
The one or more delivery agents may comprise one or more penetration enhancers, solvents, moisturising agents or combinations thereof.
The delivery agents may comprise two or more materials, for example, the composition of the present invention may comprise a combination of one or more penetration enhancers, one or more solvents and one or more moisturising agents. The delivery agents may comprise one or more solvents and one or more moisturising agents.
To enhance the speed and completeness of the tanning reaction the composition may comprise materials which enhance the delivery of the tanning agents into the stratum corneum. The inclusion of penetration enhancers can allow the use of lower levels of tanning agents and consequently lower consumer exposure.
The penetration enhancer may be present in the self-tanning composition in an amount of 1 to 10% w/w, such as in an amount of 1 to 9% w/w, or 1 to 8% w/w. Preferably the composition comprises a penetration enhancer in an amount of 2 to 10% w/w or, 2 to 10% w/w or, 3 to 10% w/w or, 2 to 9% w/w or, 3 to 8% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
Many materials can be used to enhance the penetration of tanning agents. In the present invention suitable penetration enhancers include materials such as polyols including propylene glycol, glycerine, pentylene glycol or butylene glycol; fatty alcohols such as cetyl alcohol, strearyl alcohol; fatty acids such as oleic acid, stearic acid; polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ethers such as PPG-5-Ceteth-20; and isosorbides such as dimethylisosorbide.
In one embodiment the composition may contain 1 to 12% of a solvent, preferably 2 to 10% and more preferably 2 to 8% to aid the penetration of the tanning agents. Preferably the composition comprises a solvent in an amount of 1 to 10% w/w, or 1 to 8% w/w, or 1 to 6% w/w, or 2 to 6 % w/w, or 2 to 4% w/w, or 3 to 8% w/w, or 3 to 6% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
Suitable solvents may comprise PPG-5-Ceteth-20, isopentyldiol, diraethy!ssosorbide or a combination therefore. Preferably the solvent is a combination of PPG-5-Ceteth- 20 and isopentyldiol
The moisturising agents act to deliver the tanning reaction and enhance the performance aspect of the invention. The moisturising agents provide moisture to enable the tanning reaction to take place efficiently and also aid the penetration of the DHA into stratum corneum to deliver the desired even streak-free tan.
In addition the moisturising agents counteract the drying effect of the DHA tanning reaction on the skin and it contributes to the texture and cosmetic appeal of the composition.
The one or more moisturising agents may be present in the composition in an amount of 1 to 15% w/w, such as in an amount of 1 to 12% w/w, or 1 to 10% w/w, or 1.5 to 10% w/w, or 2 to 10% w/w, or 2 to 8% w/w, or 3 to 10% w/w, or 3 to 8% w/w, based on the total weight of the self-tanning composition. The composition may contain from 2 to 15% of one or more moisturising agents, preferably from 5 to 12% and more preferably from 8 to 10%.
Moisturising agents may include propylene glycol, glycerine, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol or combinations thereof.
Delivery agents such as polyols may act as solvent and penetration enhancer but also can act as moisturising agent. In one embodiment the delivery agents of the composition of the present invention comprises a combination of propylene glycol and glycerine in a total amount from 3 to 15%, preferably 5 to 12% and more preferably 8 to 1 1 %, based on the total weight of the composition.
The composition of the present invention includes materials which can be classed as film formers, these help the adhesion of the tanning agents (DHA) to the skin and in addition produce a semi-water-proofing effect which maintains the tanning agent in contact with the skin during and after showering (enabling the tanning reaction to continue post-showering).
The one or more film forming agents may be present in the composition in an amount of 0. 1 to 4% w/w, such as in an amount of 0. 1 to 3 % w/w, or 0. 1 to 2% w/w, or 0. 1 to 1.5% w/w, or 0. 1 to 1 % w/w. Preferably the composition comprises one or more film forming agents in an amount of 0.2 to 4% w/w, or 0.3 to 4% w/w, or 0.5 to 4% w/w, or 0.2 to 3% w/w, or 0.2 to 2% w/w, or 0.2 to 1 % w/w, or 0.3 to 3% w/w, or 0.3 to 2% w/w, or 0.3 to 1.5% w/w, or 0.5 to 3% w/w, or 0.5 to 2% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
Typical materials which can be used as film forming agent comprise mineral oils, natural fruit based oils such as almond oil, avocado oil (and many others), silicone oils, POLOXAMER 338, PPG- 12/SMDI COPOLYMER and combinations thereof. Typical silicone materials which could form effective film forming properties can be selected from trimethylsiloxysilicate, cyclopentasiloxan, trimethylsiloxysilicate, trimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, cyclopentasiloxane, trimethylsiloxysilicate/dimethiconol crosspolymer, dimethicone, trimethylsiloxysilicate/dimethiconol crosspolymer and combinations thereof. A particularly effective material is a high viscosity silicone oil (e.g. > l20xl 06mm2/s at 0.0 lHz) that is pre-combined to produce a non-ionic emulsion which allows a high level of high molecular weight silicone oil to be incorporated into a low viscosity water based product, which may be typically 1 - 10,000 centipoise or more typically <2,000centipoise (Brookfield DV 1MLV viscometer at 20°C). In on embodiment the film forming agent may be selected from almond oil, avocado oil, divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer, POLOXAMER 338, PPG-12/SMDI COPOLYMER and combinations thereof.
In one embodiment the film former in the composition of the present invention is a combination material comprised of POLOXAMER 338 and PPG-12/SMDI COPOLYMER. This material has the interesting property of increasing thickness as temperature increases. It can therefore be incorporated into the composition and remains liquid at room temperature but increases in thickness (which aids adhesion to the skin) when the temperature is increased e.g. at body temperature and during typical water temperatures of showering (ca. 35-40°C).
In one embodiment, the film forming agent comprises POLOXAMER 338, PPG- 12/SMDI COPOLYMER or a combination thereof, preferably at 0.1 to 2% w/w, or 0.2 to 2% w/w, or 0.5 to 1.7% w/w, or 0.1 to 1.5% w/w, or 0.1 to 1% w/w, or 0.1 to 0.8%, based on the total weight of the composition.
In one embodiment, the film forming agent comprises a combination of a silicone oil or material, POLOXAMER 338 and PPG-12/SMDI COPOLYMER preferably at 0.1 to 2% w/w, or 0.5 to 2% w/w, or 1 to 2% w/w, or 0.5 to 1.5% w/w, or 1.2 to 2% w/w, or 1.2 to 1.7% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
In one embodiment, the film forming agent comprises divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer, POLOXAMER 338 and PPG-12/SMDI COPOLYMER, preferably at 0.1 to 2% w/w, or 0.5 to 2% w/w, or 1 to 2% w/w, 1.2 to 2% w/w, or 0.5 to 1.7% w/w, or 1 to 1.7% w/w, or 1.2 to 1.7% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
The composition of the present invention also contains skin conditioning agents or soothers which add to the cosmetic appeal of the product and improve the final complexion.
In one embodiment, the one or more skin condition or soothing agent is present in the composition in an amount from 0.1 to 1% w/w, such as in an amount from 0.1 to 0.8% w/w, or from 0.1 to 0.6% w/w, or from 0.1 to 0.5% w/w, or from 0.2 to 1% w/w, or from 0.2 to 0.8% w/w, or from 0.3 to 1% w/w, or from 0.3 to 0.8% w/w, or from 0.3 to 0.6% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
Typical skin condition or soothing agents that could be included in the composition include natural oils, mineral oils, allantoin, betaine, humectants (such as hyaluronic acid), decylene glycol, caprylyl glycol and combinations thereof.
In one embodiment the one or more skin conditioning or soothing agents comprises betaine.
The composition of the present invention also comprises materials which act as thickeners, preservatives, stabilising agents and combinations thereof. These do not contribute to the efficacy of the product but do enable a safe and usable product to be delivered to the consumer.
In one embodiment the thickeners, preservatives, stabilising agents or combinations thereof may be present in the composition in an amount of 0.1 to 3% w/w, such as in an amount of 0.5 to 3% w/w, or 1 to 3% w/w. Preferably the composition comprises one or more thickeners, preservatives, stabilising agents and combination thereof in an amount of 0.1 to 2.5% w/w, 0.1 to 2% w/w, or 0.3 to 2.5% w/w, or 0.3 to 2% w/w, or 0.3 to 1.5% w/w, or 0.5 to 2.5% w/w, or 0.5 to 2% w/w, or 1 to 2% w/w, based on the total weight of the self-tanning composition.
The thickeners may comprise hydroxyethylcellulose, sodium chloride and a combination thereof.
Suitable cosmetic preservatives include antimicrobial agents such as phenoxyethanol, DMDM hydantoin, paraben esters imidazolidinyl urea or any other antimicrobial agents particularly suitable for cosmetic use.
In one embodiment, the preservative comprises an antimicrobial to protect the composition against the risk of microbial contamination. Typically antimicrobials are included in the composition at up to 1.0% w/w, based on the total weight of the composition. A chemist skilled in the art of cosmetic product development and preservation would select an antimicrobial system appropriate for the composition and the microbial challenge. Suitable antimicrobials may include one or more of paraben esters (methyl , ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl) at 0. 1 -0.3% w/w in combination; DMDM hydantoin at concentration of 0. 15-0.4% w/w; imidazolidinyl urea at typical use concentration 0.2-0.5% w/w; benzoic acid, sodium benzoate at 0.2- 0.4; typical use, potassium sorbate at 0.3-0.5% w/w; benzyl alcohol at 0.4- 1.0% w/w and phenoxyethanol at 0.6-0.9% w/w.
The stabilising agent may comprise materials commonly used to stabilise cosmetic products. The stabilising agent may comprise one or more chelating agents such as disodium EDTA (ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid), sodium gluconate and/or one or more antioxidant materials (e.g. sodium metabisulphite, tocopherol (vitamin E)) .
In one embodiment, the stabilising agent comprises one or more antioxidants such as sodium metabisulphite, tocopherol (vitamin E), or another suitable antioxidant for cosmetic products. Preferable the composition comprises sodium metabisulphite and tocopherol.
In one embodiment, the antioxidant is present in the composition in an amount from 0. 1 to 2% w/w, or from 0. 1 to 1.5% w/w, such as in an amount from 0. 1 to 1 % w/w, or from 0. 1 to 0.8% w/w e.g. from 0.2 to 2% w/w, or from 0.2 to 1.5% w/w, or from 0.2 to 1 % w/w, or from 0.3 to 2 % w/w, or from 0.3 to 2% w/w, or from 0.3 to 1 % w/w, based on the total weight of the self-tanning composition.
In one embodiment, the antioxidant comprises sodium metabisulphite at 0.3 to 0.4% w/w and tocopherol 0.05 to 0.5 % w/w, based on the total weight of the composition.
The self-tanning composition may also include a cosmetically acceptable fragrance.
In one embodiment, the cosmetically acceptable fragrance is present in the self tanning composition in an amount from 0.01 to 1 .5% w/w, such as in an amount from 0.01 to 1 % w/w, e.g. from 0.01 to 0.8% w/w, or from 0. 1 to 1 .5% w/w, or from 0. 1 to 1 % w/w, or from 0. 1 to 0.8% w/w, or from 0.3 to 1 % w/w, based on the total weight of the composition. The composition may optionally comprise one or more cosmetic colours which act as a guide to the user to highlight where the product has been applied and the evenness of the coverage. These act as a tool to improve the quality of the final tan skin colouration. Any combination of compatible cosmetic colours can be used, but in most cases a self-tan product would use single or combinations of colours that produce a brown colour similar to the desired final skin colour. Suitable cosmetic colours which can be used to produce a brown colouration could be natural caramel or a combination of colours such as Red No4 (CI14700), Yellow No5 & Blue No l blended to produce an acceptable brown colour.
In the composition of the present invention, when used as described, the cosmetic guide colours are washed off in the shower.
The compositions of the present invention produce a tanning or darkening effect on the skin such compositions are also known as self-tanning compositions, sunless compositions or tanning compositions.
In one embodiment the composition of the present invention comprises:
5 to 30% w/w of a skin tanning agent;
3 to 20% w/w of one or more surfactants;
1 to 5% w/w of one or more solvents;
1 to 15% w/w of one or more moisturising agents;
0.1 to 4% w/w of one or more film forming agents;
0.1 to 1% w/w of one or more skin conditioning or soothing agents;
0.1 to 3% w/w of one or more thickeners, preservatives, stabilising agents or combinations thereof; and
water.
In one embodiment the composition of the present invention comprises:
5 to 30% w/w of a skin tanning agent;
3 to 20% w/w of one or more surfactants;
1 to 20% w/w of one or more delivery agents;
0.1 to 4% w/w of one or more film forming agents; 0. 1 to 1 % w/w of one or more skin conditioning or soothing agents;
0. 1 to 2% w/w of one or more anti-oxidant;
water.
In one embodiment the composition of the present invention comprises:
5 to 30% w/w of a skin tanning agent;
3 to 20% w/w of one or more surfactants;
1 to 20% w/w of one or more delivery agents;
0. 1 to 4% w/w of one or more film forming agents;
0.1 to 1 % w/w of one or more skin conditioning or soothing agents;
0. 1 to 2% w/w of one or more anti-oxidant;
0 to 1 % w/w of an antimicrobial;
water.
In one embodiment the composition of the present invention comprises:
5 to 30% w/w of a skin tanning agent;
3 to 20% w/w of one or more surfactants;
1 to 20% w/w of one or more delivery agents;
0. 1 to 4% w/w of one or more film forming agents;
0. 1 to 1 % w/w of one or more skin conditioning or soothing agents;
0. 1 to 3% w/w of one or more thickeners, preservatives, stabilising agents or combinations thereof;
q.s. (suitable quantity) of one or more suitable cosmetic colours; and water.
Leave-on self-tanning products typically contain cosmetic pigments which act as a ‘guide’ colour and are used to highlight which parts of the body have been covered or not. These ‘guide’ colours can stain clothing and bedclothes if not allowed to dry properly. By applying a product which can be washed or showered off after its application, this problem does not occur. The DHA reaction with the skin produces a slightly unpleasant odour (to most people) which is characteristic of these products. By applying the product before the shower the noticeability of this odour is minimised.
Therefore it is very desirable to have a self-tanning product that allows the user to wash or shower shortly after its application (e.g. after 1 minute) to remove the“smell” and excess of composition and avoid“staining”.
As previously explained, in current self-tanning products the amount of development time can vary from 30 minutes to up to eight hours and some consumers find this time an undesirable aspect. Current self-tanning products should ideally be left to develop on the skin between 4 to 8 hours before showering or washing to obtain the desired results. In addition, for optimum results is advised avoiding showering, washing, swimming, sweating for 4 to 8 hours to allow the tanned appearance to develop on the skin.
It is therefore desirable to have a self-tanning product which can be applied all over the body just before showering and allows normal showering to take place and still produce a self-tanning effect on the skin (self-tanning therefore becomes part of the daily cleansing regime).
The composition in this invention addresses these aims.
In addition, the composition of the present invention does not need to include cosmetic pigments used as a‘guide’ colour. The composition of the present invention produces a foam or a lather - which makes easier to see where the composition has been applied and can act as a‘guide’ or visual aid to help ensure even coverage all over the desired tanning area. Therefore, in the composition of the present invention the presence of cosmetic pigments which act as a‘guide’ colour is optional.
In one embodiment, the composition of the present invention does not contain cosmetic pigments, which act as a‘guide’ colour. The composition of the present invention therefore avoids the need for cosmetic guide colours to be included in the composition because the foam or lather produced during application of the composition can act as a visual aid to ensure an even coverage and tan colouration of the skin.
The composition is preferably allowed to remain in contact with the skin for 1 to 5 minutes, preferably 1 to 3 minutes, more preferably 1 minute.
The composition may then be rinsed off the skin by showering, bathing or washing. The composition may be lathered before wash or shower. The shower after application of the composition can be done in the normal way and any shower gel or cleaning product may be used to shower.
The composition of the invention delivers an amount of tanning agent, such as DHA, sufficient to produce a tanned appearance when used as directed in this way.
The composition is cosmetically acceptable, pleasant to use and does not require waiting more than 1-5 minutes, preferably 1 minute, before the user can shower or wash. Surprisingly the development reaction/tanning reaction on the skin after application of the composition of the present invention is not altered by exposure to water or showering products and can continue after showering/washing.
With regular use before showering, the composition produces an even, natural looking tan colouration of the skin. The product has cosmetically acceptable properties and is pleasant to use. The product spreads evenly and easily across the skin and also produces a foam or lather to enable easy rinsing off the skin and visibility of where the product has been applied.
In a second aspect, the present invention provides a method of delivering a tanning agent to the skin of a user comprising the steps of: applying a composition of the first aspect of the invention to the skin; and allowing the composition to remain in contact with the skin for up to 5 minutes.
In one embodiment the method further comprises subjecting the skin to exposure to water, e.g. warm water, after applying a composition of the invention to the skin. The step of subjecting the skin to exposure to water may comprise showering or washing. Showering can be conducted in the normal way with any cleansing product. The composition is preferably applied evenly over the skin.
The composition is preferably allowed to remain in contact with the skin for 1 to 5 minutes, preferably 1 to 4 minutes, more preferably 1 to 3 minutes, for example 1, 2 or 3 minutes.
The composition of the first aspect of the invention delivers an amount of tanning agent, such as DHA, sufficient to produce a tanned appearance even if the user showers or washes right after its application on the skin. The composition is cosmetically acceptable and pleasant to use.
In one embodiment the composition is stable and meets the normal demands of the cosmetic market. In this embodiment the product should meets the intended physical, chemical and microbiological quality standards as well as functionality and aesthetics when stored under appropriate conditions.
The present invention also provides a new method of applying a self-tanning composition or skin tanning agent which gives an improved, streak free and natural looking tan without the need for a guide colour.
Embodiments of the invention are described by means of the example compositions below. The example compositions are purely illustrative and are not intended to limit the scope of protection in any way.
Examples of
Figure imgf000019_0002
com
Figure imgf000019_0001
of the invention include:
Example 1 : Composition I
Figure imgf000020_0001
Example 2: Composition II
Figure imgf000020_0002
Figure imgf000021_0001
Example 3:
A composition according to the invention was tested in an independent 2 week consumer user trial of 100 panellists to demonstrate the benefits of the composition. The panellists used the composition several times during the study and the instructions were to apply the composition and leave on the skin for 1 minute before showering in a normal manner. Ease of use / convenience:
The product was easy to apply - 95% agreement
The product spreads easily over the skin - 95% agreement
The product rinses off easily - 96% agreement
The usage and application of the product are very convenient - 96% agreement Characteristic self-tan odour:
There is no self-tan smell -89% agreement
Staining of clothes / bedclothes:
Tan does not transfer onto towels - 93% agreement
Tan does transfer onto clothing or bedding - 96% agreement
Quality of tan :
The product gave me a natural, healthy looking tan - 80% agreement The product allowed me to build my ultimate depth of tan - 80% agreement My tan is even and streak free - 83%
The tan suited my skin tone - 84%

Claims

1. A composition comprising:
5 to 30% w/w of a skin tanning agent;
3 to 20% w/w of one or more surfactants;
1 to 20% w/w of one or more delivery agents;
0.1 to 4% w/w of one or more film forming agents;
0.1 to 1 % w/w of one or more skin conditioning or soothing agents;
0. 1 to 3% w/w of one or more thickeners, preservatives, stabilising agents or combinations thereof; and
water.
2. The composition of claim 1 , wherein the skin tanning agent is dihydro xyacetone .
3. The composition of claim 1 or claim 2, wherein the skin tanning agent is present in the composition in an amount of 15 to 25% w/w.
4. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the surfactant is present in an amount of 5 to 16% w/w.
5. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the one or more surfactant comprises at least one anionic surfactant, at least one amphoteric surfactant, at least non-ionic surfactant or combinations thereof.
6. The composition of claim 5, wherein the anionic surfactant is present in an amount of 5 to 13% w/w.
7. The composition of claim 5 or claim 6, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from carboxylate, sulphate, sulfosuccinate or combinations thereof.
8. The composition of claim 7, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from sodium laureth sulphate, sodium myreth sulphate, ammonium lauryl sulphate, diethylhexyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and combinations thereof.
9. The composition of any one of claims 5, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is present in an amount of 1 to 8% w/w.
10. The composition of claim 9, wherein the amphoteric surfactant is selected from capryl/capram idopropyl betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium lauriminodipropionate and combinations thereof.
11. The composition of claim 5, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is present in an amount of 0.5 to 6% w/w.
12. The composition of claim 11, wherein the non-ionic surfactant is selected from lauryl glucoside, decyl glucoside, caprylyl/capryl glucoside and coco-glucoside.
13. The composition of any one of claims 1-12 wherein the one or more surfactants comprise sodium laureth sulphate and cocamidopropyl betaine.
14. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the delivery agent is present in an amount of 4 to 16% w/w.
15. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 14, wherein the delivery agent comprises one or more penetration enhancers, solvents, moisturising agents or combinations thereof.
16. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 15, wherein the delivery agent is selected from polyols, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, polyoxypropylene polyoxyethylene ethers, isosorbides and combinations thereof.
17. The composition of claim 16, wherein the delivery agent is selected from propylene glycol, glycerine, pentylene glycol, butylene glycol, cetyl alcohol, strearyl alcohol, oleic acid, stearic acid, PPG-5-Ceteth-20, dimethyl isosorbide, isopentyldiol and combinations thereof.
18. The composition of claim 17, wherein the delivery agent comprises a combination of propylene glycol and glycerine in a total amount from 3 to 15%.
19. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 18, wherein the film forming agent is present in an amount of 0.2 to 3% w/w.
20. The composition of claim any one of claims 1 to 19, wherein the film forming agent is selected from mineral oils, natural fruit based oils, silicone oils, POLOXAMER 338, PPG-12/SMDI COPOLYMER and combinations thereof.
21. The composition of claim 20, wherein the film forming agent comprises POLOXAMER 338, PPG-12/SMDI COPOLYMER or a combination thereof.
22. The composition of claim 20, wherein the film forming agent comprises divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer, POLOXAMER 338 and PPG-12/SMDI COPOLYMER
23. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 22, wherein the skin conditioning agent or soother is present in an amount of or from 0.1 to 0.5% w/w.
24. The composition of claim any one of claims 1 to 23, wherein the skin conditioning agent or soother is betaine.
25. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 24, wherein the thickeners, preservatives, stabilising agents or combinations thereof are present in an amount of 0.1 to 2.5% w/w.
26. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 25, wherein the thickener comprises hydroxyethylcellulose, sodium chloride or a combination thereof.
27. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 25, wherein the stabilising agent comprises one or more chelating agents, one or more antioxidant or a combination thereof.
28. The composition of claim 27, wherein the antioxidant is present in the composition in an amount of from 0.1 to 2% w/w.
29. The composition of claim 27 or claim 28, wherein the antioxidant is sodium metabisulphite, tocopherol or a combination thereof.
30. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 25, wherein the preservative comprises an antimicrobial.
31. The composition of claim 30, wherein the antimicrobial is present in the composition in an amount of up to 1% w/w.
32. The composition of claim 30 or claim 31, wherein the antimicrobial is selected from, DMDM hydantoin, imidazolidinyl urea, benzoic acid, sodium benzoate, potassium sorbate, benzyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and combinations thereof.
33. The composition as defined in any one claims 1 to 32 for use as or in a sunless or self-tanning product.
34. The composition as defined in any one claims 1 to 32 for use within 1-5 minutes before showering or washing the skin.
35. A sunless or self-tanning product comprising the composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 32.
36. A method of delivering a tanning agent to the skin of a user comprising the steps of:
i) applying a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 32 to the skin, and
ii) allowing the composition to remain in contact with the skin for up to 5 minutes.
37. The method of claim 36 wherein the composition is allowed to remain in contact with the skin for 1 to 5 minutes.
38. The method as defined in claim 37 further comprising subjecting skin to exposure to water, for example by showering, immediately after the 1 -5 minutes.
PCT/GB2018/053664 2017-12-19 2018-12-18 Tanning composition WO2019122852A1 (en)

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