WO2019121503A2 - Dispositif à compartiments multiples comprenant au moins un joint cassable interne - Google Patents

Dispositif à compartiments multiples comprenant au moins un joint cassable interne Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019121503A2
WO2019121503A2 PCT/EP2018/085182 EP2018085182W WO2019121503A2 WO 2019121503 A2 WO2019121503 A2 WO 2019121503A2 EP 2018085182 W EP2018085182 W EP 2018085182W WO 2019121503 A2 WO2019121503 A2 WO 2019121503A2
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alkyl
hydrogen atom
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representing
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PCT/EP2018/085182
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English (en)
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WO2019121503A3 (fr
Inventor
Suman MAJUMDER
Sangeeta GAIKWAD
Shruti PANDEY
Amer Alkahwaji
Maxime De Boni
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2019121503A2 publication Critical patent/WO2019121503A2/fr
Publication of WO2019121503A3 publication Critical patent/WO2019121503A3/fr

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Classifications

    • B—PERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B65—CONVEYING; PACKING; STORING; HANDLING THIN OR FILAMENTARY MATERIAL
    • B65D—CONTAINERS FOR STORAGE OR TRANSPORT OF ARTICLES OR MATERIALS, e.g. BAGS, BARRELS, BOTTLES, BOXES, CANS, CARTONS, CRATES, DRUMS, JARS, TANKS, HOPPERS, FORWARDING CONTAINERS; ACCESSORIES, CLOSURES, OR FITTINGS THEREFOR; PACKAGING ELEMENTS; PACKAGES
    • B65D81/00—Containers, packaging elements, or packages, for contents presenting particular transport or storage problems, or adapted to be used for non-packaging purposes after removal of contents
    • B65D81/32—Containers, packaging elements, or packages, for contents presenting particular transport or storage problems, or adapted to be used for non-packaging purposes after removal of contents for packaging two or more different materials which must be maintained separate prior to use in admixture
    • B65D81/3261—Flexible containers having several compartments
    • B65D81/3266—Flexible containers having several compartments separated by a common rupturable seal, a clip or other removable fastening device
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
    • A61K2800/882—Mixing prior to application

Definitions

  • Multiple-compartment device comprising at least one internal frangible seal
  • the present invention relates to a multiple-compartment device composed of a closed envelop divided in at least two distinct compartments separated from one another by at least one internal frangible seal, wherein at least one of the compartments contains a composition (A), comprising at least one natural plant powder, and the second compartment contains an aqueous composition (B) comprising at least one direct dye, more preferably at least one anionic direct dye
  • the invention also relates to a method for dyeing keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, using the multiple- compartment device.
  • a first method for dyeing human keratin fibres implies dye compositions containing oxidation dye precursors, generally known as oxidation bases. These oxidation bases are colourless or weakly coloured compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, may give rise to coloured compounds via a process of oxidative condensation.
  • the shades obtained with these oxidation bases can be modified by combining them with couplers or coloration modifiers.
  • couplers or coloration modifiers The variety of molecules used as oxidation bases and couplers allows a wide range of colours to be obtained.
  • a second method for dyeing human keratin fibres is known as direct dyeing or semi-permanent dyeing, and comprises the application of direct dyes, which are coloured and colouring molecules that have affinity for fibres. Given the nature of the molecules used, they tend rather to remain on the surface of the fibre and penetrate relatively little into the fibre, when compared with the small molecules o f oxidation dye precursors.
  • the main advantages of this type of dyeing are that it does not require any oxidizing agent, which limits the degradation of the fibres, and that it does not use any dyes that have particular reactivity, resulting in limitation of the intolerance risks.
  • henna and indigo producing plants Two of the most well known natural dyes are those derived from the henna and the indigo producing plants. Both henna and indigo continue to be used in feminine beauty enhancement for colouring the hair, the nails and the skin. For instance, henna is used for temporary skin tattoos. In addition, indigo and henna are both used for dyeing fabrics (jeans), leather, silk and wool, etc.
  • Henna is also traditionally used for various important events, celebrations and beliefs.
  • Henna affords an orange-red coloration on grey hair, and a "warm” i.e. coppery to red colour on chestnut-brown hair, while indigo affords a blue coloration on grey hair, and a "cold” colour of ash to violet colour on chestnut-brown hair.
  • the preparation requires also extra bowl and brushes, which increase the price for the consumers.
  • a multiple-compartment device composed of a closed envelop divided in at least two distinct compartments separated from one another by at least one internal frangible seal, wherein at least one the compartments contains a composition (A), comprising at least one natural plant powder, especially henna plant powder and/or indigo plant powder, and the second compartment contains an aqueous composition (B) comprising at least one direct dye, more preferably at least one anionic direct dye .
  • the present invention therefore relates to a multiple-compartment device composed of a closed envelop, made of at least two flexible sidewalls secured together along their peripheral edges, defining a sealed perimeter and an internal volume; said internal volume being divided in at least two distinct compartments, separated from one another by at least one internal frangible seal, wherein at least one of the compartments contains a composition (A), comprising at least one natural plant powder and the second compartment contains an aqueous composition (B) comprising at least one direct dye, more preferably at least one anionic direct dye .
  • A composition
  • B aqueous composition
  • the multiple-compartment device according to the present invention is convenient, easy to handle and time-saving.
  • the frangible seal is easily broken by pressing one of the compartments.
  • the natural plant powder is then instantly mixed with the aqueous composition within the closed envelop.
  • a very nice creamy and homogeneous paste is obtained, which when applied to the hair gives the appropriate color in an application time of one hour.
  • the multiple-compartment device according to the present invention allows the balanced amounts of water and natural plant powder.
  • the multiple-compartment device according to the present invention is self-sufficient. No external product, such as additional water, is required.
  • the dyeing composition As soon as the internal frangible seal is broken, the dyeing composition is instantly mixed and obtained within the closed envelop. No soaking time is required.
  • the dyeing composition can directly be applied on the keratin fibres.
  • the present invention provides also better dyeing properties than the traditional method, especially powerful, intensive and/or chromatic coloration, with a wide variety of color shades in a shorter time.
  • hair dyed with the paste obtained by the multiple- compartment device of the present invention exhibits good cosmetic properties, such as suppleness, smoothness, shine, detangling, volume, discipline and capability to be individualized.
  • hair dyed with the paste obtained by the multiple- compartment device according to the invention shows improved suppleness, smoothness and coated feel than hair dyed with a paste obtained by mixing natural plant powder, especially henna and/or indigo powder, direct dye(s), especially anionic direct dye(s) and warm water.
  • Another object of the present invention concerns a method for dyeing keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, wherein the following steps are successively performed:
  • FIG. 1 schematically shows an example of multiple- compartment device according to the invention.
  • Figure 2 shows a variant embodiment of the multiple- compartment device from Figure 1 .
  • the term “flexible” is used to describe an element which bends without stretching and without plastic deformation under the action of a force exerted by a user generating a torque typically higher than 0.001 N.m, and which moves back to its position of rest when the pressure is released.
  • the terms “stiff” and “not deformable” are used to describe an element which does not almost bend under the effect of a strength exercised by a user typically generating a torque lower than 0.05 N.m.
  • the multiple-compartment device has the multiple-compartment device
  • a multiple-compartment device 1 is composed of a closed envelop 2, made of at least two flexible sidewalls 3a and 3b secured together along their peripheral edges 4, defining a sealed perimeter 5 and an internal volume 6, which is divided in at least two distinct compartments 7a and 7b, separated from one another by at least one internal frangible seal 8.
  • at least one of the compartments 7a contains a composition (A), comprising at least one natural plant powderand the second compartment 7b contains an aqueous composition (B) comprising at least one direct dye.
  • compositions (A) and (B) are separated from the compartment 7b containing the aqueous composition (B) by the internal frangible seal 8.
  • the multiple-compartment device 1 is divided into two distinct compartments 7a and 7b.
  • the sealed perimeter 5 has a first end 9, a second end 10, and two opposed sides 1 1 and 12.
  • the sealed perimeter 5 has a width of between 5 to 15 mm.
  • Each flexible sidewall 3 a and 3b is made of at least one sheet of polymeric film.
  • the sheet of polymeric film can be either a single layer or a multilayer polymeric film.
  • the layers of polymeric film may be different in structure.
  • the length of the sidewalls 3a and 3b preferably ranges from 100 to 200 mm, and more preferentially from 120 to 160 mm.
  • the width of the sidewalls 3a and 3b preferably ranges from 100 to 200 mm, and more preferentially from 120 to 200 mm.
  • the length of the first compartment 7a preferably ranges from 5 to 200 mm, and more preferentially from 80 to 150 mm.
  • the length of the second compartment 7b preferably ranges from 5 to 200 mm, and more preferentially from 80 to 150 mm.
  • the length of the first compartment 7a maybe higher than the length of the second compartment 7b but it is preferably equal to the length of the second compartment 7b.
  • the closed envelop 2 is made of at least one sheet of polymeric film folded back on itself and sealed at its peripheral edges.
  • the two flexible sidewalls 3a and 3b are made of the same sheet of polymeric film, which can be either a single layer or a multilayer polymeric film.
  • the sheet of polymeric film is a multilayer polymeric film comprising at least two, different or identical, layers o f polymeric film.
  • the sheet of polymeric film has a laminate structure and the layers of polymeric film are superposed on one another.
  • a second sheet can optionally be made of paper.
  • the sheet of polymeric film suitable for the present invention is preferably prepared from polyvinyl chloride (PVC), polyesters, polyolefins, polyamides, or polystyrenes.
  • PVC polyvinyl chloride
  • polyesters polyolefins
  • polyamides polyamides
  • polystyrenes polystyrenes
  • polyvinyl chloride examples include vinyl polymers containing vinyl chloride units in their structure, such as copolymers of vinyl chloride with vinyl esters of aliphatic acids, copolymers o f vinyl chloride with esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid or with acrylonitrile, copolymers of vinyl chloride with diene bonds and unsaturated dicarboxylic acids or anhydrides thereof, copolymers o f vinyl chloride and vinylidene chloride with unsaturated aldehydes, ketones, etc. , or polymers and copolymers of vinylidene chloride with vinyl chloride or other polymerizable compounds.
  • the thermoplastics based on vinyl can also be rendered flexible in a manner known per se by means of primary or secondary plasticizers.
  • the PVC sheets can, as the case may be, also be drawn monoaxially (oPVC) or biaxially.
  • polyesters are poly(alkylene terephthalate)s or poly(alkylene isophthalate)s having alkyl groups or radicals containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or alkyl groups containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms which are interrupted at least by one -0-, such as, for example, poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET sheets), poly(propylene terephthalate), poly(butylenes terephthalate) (poly(tetramethylene terephtalate)), poly(decamethylene terephthalate), poly( l ,4- cyclohexyldimethylol hterephthalate) or poly(ethylene 2,6 naphthalenedicarboxylate), or copolymers of poly(alkylene terephthalate) and poly(alkylene isophthalate), the proportion o f isophthalate being, for example, from 1 to 10 mol%, copolymers and terpolymers, and also block poly
  • polyesters are copolymers of terephthalic acid and o f another polycarboxylic acid with at least one glycol.
  • Copolyesters o f terephthalic acid, of ethylene glycol and of an additional glycol are appropriate.
  • Glycol-modified polyesters, which are known in the technical field under the name PETG, are preferred.
  • polyesters are composed of poly(alkylene terephthalate)s having alkyl groups or radicals comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms and poly(alkylene terephthalate)s having alkyl groups or radicals containing 2 to 10 carbon atoms which are interrupted by 1 or 2 0
  • poly(alkylene terephthalate)s having alkyl groups or radicals containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms and preference is very particularly given to poly(ethylene terephthalate)s.
  • These poly(ethylene terephthalate)s also include A-PET, PETP and the PETG mentioned or the G-PET.
  • polyolefins are polyethylenes (PE), for example high density polyethylene (HDPE, density of greater than 0.944 g/cm 3 ), medium density polyethylene (MDPE, density of 0.926 to 0.940 g/cm 3 ), linear medium density polyethylene (LMDPE, density o f 0.926 to 0.940 g/cm 3 ), low density polyethylene (LDPE, density o f
  • ⁇ ⁇ f nonoriented sheets PE sheet
  • oPE sheet monoaxially or biaxially oriented sheets
  • PP polypropylenes
  • PP polypropylenes
  • oPP sheet axially or biaxially oriented polypropylene
  • cPP sheet cast polypropylene
  • polyamides (PA) for the polymeric film are composed, for example, of polyamide 6, -caprolactam homopolymer (polycaprolactam); polyamide 1 1 ; polyamide 12, co-lauryllactam homopolymer (polylauryllactam); polyamide 6,6, homopolycondensate of hexamethylenediamine and of adipic acid (poly(hexamethylene adipamide)); polyamide 6, 10, homopolycondensate o f hexamethylenediamine and of sebacic acid (poly(hexa-methylene sebacamide); polyamide 6, 12, homopolycondensate of hexamethylenediamine and of dodecanedioic acid (poly(hexamethylene dodecanamide)) or polyamide 6-3-T, homopolycondensate of trimethylhexamethylenediamine and of terephthalic acid (poly(trimethylhexamethylene terephthalamide)), and blends thereof
  • polystyrenes for the polymeric film are composed, for example, of oriented polystyrene, in particular mono- or biaxially oriented polystyrene, which may be produced by stretching extruded polystyrene film or polystyrene copolymerized with butadiene.
  • the sheet of polymeric film is chosen from poly(alkylene terephthalate) and polyolefins, and more preferentially from poly(ethylene terephthalate), polyethylene and ionomers, such as copolymer of polyethylene and methacrylic acid, and polystyrene such as oriented polystyrene.
  • the thickness of polymeric films ranges from 60 pm to 200 pm and preferably from 80 pm to 140 pm.
  • the internal frangible seal 8 is comprised in the internal volume 6. Each ends 13 of the internal frangible seal 8 is connected to at least one edge 4 of the sealed perimeter 5. As illustrated in Figure 1 , one of the ends 13 of the internal frangible seal 8 is connected to the first end 9, while the other end 13 of the internal frangible seal 8 is connected to the second end 10 of the sealed perimeter 5.
  • the expressions“seal” or“sealed perimeter”, according to the present invention, refer to a definitive bond between two sheets o f polymeric film or between two parts of a sheet folded back on itself. This seal can be obtained fusing and/or mixing together the two sheets or the two parts. In other words, the seal between the two sheets or the two parts cannot be opened without damaging the walls formed by the two sheets or by the two parts.
  • frangible seal refers to a non definitive bound between two sheets of polymeric film. In other words, the frangible seal can be opened without damaging the walls formed by the two sheets.
  • the internal frangible seal 8 is formed by heat-sealing or ultrasonic-sealing process the internal layers of the sidewalls 3a and 3b. In other words, the internal parts of polymeric film(s) forming the sidewalls 3a and 3b are sealed together in order to create the internal frangible seal 8.
  • the internal frangible seal 8 provides impermeability between the two compartments 7a and 7b, avoiding the composition (A) contained in one of the compartment 7a to mix with the aqueous composition (B) contained in the second compartment 7b.
  • the internal frangible seal 8 breaks under the force of the pressure transmitted by the composition contained in the compartment to the frangible seal.
  • the compositions (A) and (B) contained in both compartments can pass from one compartment to the other through the broken seal, and can thus mix together.
  • the internal frangible seal thus requires two conflicting performance.
  • the internal frangible seal provides a relatively strong resistance to a force generated during normal storage or handling, in order to avoid inadvertent rupture of the seal.
  • the internal frangible seal shall be completely broken upon user activation, in order to avoid restriction of the flow path between the two compartments, inducing thus an unsatisfactory mixing of compositions (A) and (B).
  • the force pressure to apply in order to break the internal membrane in between the two compartments ranges from 0.5 kg/cm 2 to 3 kg/cm 2 .
  • the multiple-compartment device 1 may also comprise an opening means, for example by way of tearing or cutting with a pair o f scissors.
  • the opening means is a pre-cut line 14 parallel to the first end 9 of the sealed perimeter 5 , as illustrated in Figure 1 .
  • the pre-cut line 14 can be produced by laser, and can then be torn easily without a tool.
  • Figure 2 illustrates a variant embodiment of a multiple- compartment device 1 in the form of a stand-up device.
  • the respective elements comprising this embodiment are identified by using the corresponding reference numbers used for the description of the multiple-compartment device in Figure 1 .
  • This particular embodiment differs from the device disclosed in Figure 1 in that the second end 10 of the sealed perimeter 5 has a bottom 15 and involves a folded gusset structure 16 allowing the multiple-compartment device 1 to be freestanding.
  • the sheet of polymeric film can be sealed without gusset.
  • Such an embodiment may involve a more complex sealed perimeter 5 to create the gusset 16 and the bottom 15.
  • composition (A) according to the present invention comprises at least one natural plant powder.
  • the natural plant powder of composition (A) can be chosen from henna plant powder, indigo plant powder, annatto plant powder, carotenoid powder coming from Chilies and carrots, Lutein and zeaxanthin powder coming from Marigold flower, Curcumin extract coming from turmeric, Chlorophyll and Chorophyllin extract coming from green grass, Blue
  • the natural plant powder is preferably chosen from henna plant powder, indigo plant powder or mixtures thereof.
  • the henna plant powder used in the present invention is preferably red henna ( Lawsonia inermis, alba).
  • Red henna consists of leaves of shrubs of the genus Lawsonia from the family of Lythraceae, which is based on the principle o f dyeing with the active agent lawsone: 2-hydroxy- 1 ,4-naphthoquinone.
  • Lawsone [83-72-7] (Cl Natural Orange 6 ; Cl 75420), also known as isojuglone, may be found in henna shrubs ( Lawsonia alba, Lawsonia inermis ) ("Dyes, Natural", Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, "Henna " Encyclopedia Britannica).
  • Indigo used in the present invention is a natural dye, originating from indigo-producing plants, and corresponds to the following structure:
  • the indigo plant powder used in the present invention is preferably obtained from at least one indigo-producing plant chosen from the following genera:
  • Indigofera such as Indigofera tinctoria, Indigo suffruticosa, Indigofera articulata, Indigofera arrecta, Indigofera gerardiana, Indigofera argenta, Indigofera indica, Indigofera longiracemosa
  • Isatis such as Isatis tinctoria
  • Calanthe such as Calanthe veratrifolia
  • Baphicacanthus such as Baphicacanthus cusia.
  • the indigo-producing plant is chosen from the genus Indigofera, and is more particularly Indigofera tinctoria.
  • indigo is prepared from the leaves of the plant, and more particularly from the leaves of Indigofera tinctoria.
  • an extract is a product of maceration in solvents, generally organic solvents
  • the powder according to the invention is a pure natural product originating from henna or indigo- producing plants, reduced by grinding or other mechanical means, into fine particles.
  • composition (A) of the present invention comprises natural plant, especially henna plant and/or indigo plant, in powder form, especially , preferably as fine particles, relative to the total weight of said composition (A).
  • the natural plant powders may be screened to obtain particles with upper limit sizes corresponding to the orifices or mesh sizes of the screen particularly between 35 and 80 mesh (US).
  • the size of natural plant powder particles is fine.
  • a particle size of less than or equal to 500 pm is more particularly intended.
  • the powder consists of fine particles with sizes inclusively between 50 and 300 pm and more particularly between 10 and 200 pm.
  • the said natural plant particles preferentially have a moisture content of between 0 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the powder.
  • composition (A) is preferably chosen from red henna powder of Lawsonia, Indigofera tinctoria, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of natural plant powder, in the present invention is preferably greater than or equal to 50% by weight, more preferably greater than or equal to 60% by weight, and better still greater than or equal to 70% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition (A). Itcan range from 50 to 99%, preferably from 60 to 95%, better still from 70 to 90% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition Additional dyes :
  • Composition (A) may also contain one or more additional direct dyes other than the natural plant powder.
  • These direct dyes are chosen, for example, from those conventionally used in direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of any commonly used aromatic and/or non-aromatic dyes such as neutral, acidic or cationic nitrobenzene direct dyes, neutral, acidic or cationic azo direct dyes, natural direct dyes, neutral, acidic or cationic quinone and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, azine, triarylmethane, indoamine, methine, styryl, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, phthalocyanine, cyanine and methine direct dyes, and fluorescent dyes.
  • aromatic and/or non-aromatic dyes such as neutral, acidic or cationic nitrobenzene direct dyes, neutral, acidic or cationic azo direct dyes, natural direct dyes, neutral, acidic or cationic quinone and in
  • the natural or non-natural direct dye(s), other than the natural plant powder a), in the composition (A) according to the invention particularly represents from 0.001 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition and even more preferentially from 0.05% to 5 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.
  • composition (A) of the invention does not contain any synthetic direct dyes, i.e. dyes that do not occur in nature.
  • composition (A) of the invention does not contain any additional direct dye, other than henna powder.
  • composition (A) of the invention does not contain any additional direct dye, other than the natural plant powder.
  • composition (A) according to the present invention may further comprise one or more fatty substance(s), preferably non- silicone fatty substance(s).
  • fatty substance means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg), with a solubility in water of less than 5%, preferably less than 1 % and even more preferentially less than 0. 1 %.
  • the non-silicone fatty substances generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms.
  • the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, ethanol, benzene, liquid petroleum jelly or dec amethy ley clop entasiloxane.
  • the non-silicone fatty substance(s) of the invention is (are), moreover, nonpolyoxyethylenated and nonpolyglycerolated.
  • non-silicone fatty substance means a fatty substance of which the structure does not comprise any silicon atoms.
  • the fatty substance(s) may be liquid or non-liquid at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the liquid fatty substances of the invention preferably have a viscosity of less than or equal to 2 Pa.s, better still less than or equal to 1 Pa.s and even better still less than or equal to 0. 1 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s 1 .
  • liquid fatty substance(s), preferably liquid non-silicone fatty substance(s) used in the present invention is (are) in particular chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acid and/or of fatty alcohol, non-salified fatty acids, having a fatty chain, and mixtures thereof.
  • liquid hydrocarbon means a hydrocarbon composed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms, which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1 .013 x 10 5 Pa).
  • liquid hydrocarbons are chosen from:
  • C 6 -Ci 6 alkanes examples include hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, and isoparaffins, for instance isohexadecane, isododecane and isodecane,
  • liquid hydrocarbons of mineral, animal or synthetic origin, with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid paraffins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as the product sold under the brand name Parleam ® by the company NOF Corporation, and squalane.
  • the liquid hydrocarbon(s) is (are) chosen from liquid paraffins, isoparaffins, liquid petroleum jelly, undecane, tridecane, isododecane, and mixtures thereof.
  • liquid hydrocarbon(s) is (are) chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, isoparaffins, isododecane, and a mixture of undecane and of tridecane.
  • liquid fatty alcohol means a nonglycerolated and nonoxyalkylenated fatty alcohol, which is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1 .013 x 10 5 Pa).
  • the liquid fatty alcohols of the invention comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • liquid fatty alcohols of the invention may be saturated or unsaturated.
  • the saturated liquid fatty alcohols are preferably branched.
  • They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
  • saturated liquid fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol and 2- hexyldecanol.
  • Octyldodecanol is most particularly preferred.
  • the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols contain in their structure at least one double or triple bond, and preferably one or more double bonds. When several double bonds are present, there are preferably 2 or 3 of them, and they may be conjugated or unconjugated.
  • These unsaturated fatty alcohols may be linear or branched.
  • They may optionally comprise in their structure at least one aromatic or non-aromatic ring. They are preferably acyclic.
  • the unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols of the invention are chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and undecylenyl alcohol.
  • Oleyl alcohol is most particularly preferred.
  • liquid fatty esters means an ester derived from a fatty acid and/or from a fatty alcohol that is liquid at standard temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1 .013 x 10 5 Pa).
  • the esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1 -C26 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1 -C26 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • esters of monoalcohols Preferably, for the esters of monoalcohols, at least one of from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
  • ethyl palmitate isopropyl palmitate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isodecyl neopentanoate isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • Esters of C 4 -C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of Ci - C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C4-C26 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy nonsugar alcohols may also be used.
  • esters mentioned above it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glyco l dicaprylate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glyco l
  • composition (A) may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C1 2-C22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters and diesters of C6-C30 and preferably C1 2-C22 fatty acids.
  • sucrose means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon- based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include saccharose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar esters of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C6-C30 and preferably C1 2-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be chosen, for example, from oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates and arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, in particular, oleopalmitate, oleostearate or palmitostearate mixed esters.
  • monoesters and diesters and in particular of mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, lino leates, linolenates or oleostearates of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose.
  • Glucate ® DO the product sold under the name Glucate ® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.
  • pentaerythrityl esters preferably pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate, and caprylic and capric acid hexaesters as a mixture with dipentaerythritol.
  • esters of mono-, di- or triacids with glycerol may also be used.
  • oils of plant origin or synthetic triglycerides that may be used in the present invention as liquid fatty esters, examples that may be mentioned include:
  • triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin such as liquid fatty acid triglycerides containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sesame oil, soybean oil, coffee oil, safflower oil, borage oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, apricot kernel oil, camellia oil, bambara groundnut oil, avocado oil, mango oil, rice bran oil, cottonseed oil, rose oil, kiwi seed oil, seabuckthorn pulp oil, bilberry oil, poppy oil, orange seed oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, vernonia oil, marjoram oil, baobab oil, rapeseed oil, ximenia oil or pracaxi oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol ® 810, 812 and
  • liquid esters according to the invention of triglycerides of plant origin, in particular oils chosen from avocado oil, olive oil, camellia oil, apricot kernel oil, and mixtures thereof, and esters of C 4 - C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 - C 22 alcohols, in particular 1 ,3-propanediol dicaprylate.
  • oils chosen from avocado oil, olive oil, camellia oil, apricot kernel oil, and mixtures thereof
  • the fatty acid In order to be considered as a fatty substance, the fatty acid must not be in generally soluble soap form, i.e. it must not be salified with a base.
  • the liquid fatty acids may be chosen from acids of formula RCOOH, in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical preferably comprising from 7 to 39 carbon atoms.
  • R is a C7-C29 alkyl or C7-C29 alkenyl group and better still a C1 2-C24 alkyl or C1 2-C24 alkenyl group.
  • R may be substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups and/or one or more carboxyl groups.
  • the liquid fatty acid may in particular be chosen from oleic acid, linoleic acid and isostearic acid.
  • the liquid fatty substance(s) is (are) chosen from linear or branched C 6 -Ci 6 alkanes, fatty alcohols and fatty acid esters, in particular oils of plant origin and esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1 -C22 alcohols.
  • the fatty substance(s) used in the composition (A) a according to the invention may also be fatty substances which are non-liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1 .013 X 10 5 Pa).
  • non-liquid preferably means a solid compound or a compound that has a viscosity of greater than 2 Pa.s at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s 1 .
  • non-liquid fatty substances are chosen from fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes and fatty ethers, which are non-liquid and preferably solid.
  • non-liquid fatty alcohols suitable for the implementation of the invention are chosen more particularly from saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and a mixture thereof (cetylstearyl alcohol). More particularly, cetylstearyl alcohol will be used.
  • non-liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols mention may be made in particular of solid esters derived from C 9 - C 26 fatty acids and from C 9 - C 26 fatty alcohols.
  • esters mention may be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate and stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate.
  • the non-silicone wax(es) are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, esparto wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, plant waxes, such as olive tree wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute flower waxes, such as the blackcurrant blossom essential wax sold by Bertin (France), or animal waxes, such as beeswaxes or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), and ceramides.
  • Solid amides that may be mentioned include ceramides.
  • the ceramides or ceramide analogues, such as glycoceramides, that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are known per se and are natural or synthetic molecules that may correspond to general formula (I) below:
  • Ri denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical, derived from C 1 4 - C 30 fatty acids, this radical possibly being substituted with a hydroxyl group in the alpha position or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified with a saturated or unsaturated C 1 6 - C 30 fatty acid;
  • R 2 denotes a hydrogen atom or a (glycosyl) n , (galactosyl)m or sulfogalactosyl radical, in which n is an integer ranging from 1 to 4 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 8 ;
  • R3 denotes a C 1 5 - C 26 hydrocarbon-based radical which is saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, it being possible for this radical to be substituted with one or more C 1 - C 1 4 alkyl radicals; it being understood that, in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 may also denote a C1 5-C26 a-hydroxyalkyl radical, the hydroxyl group being optionally esterified with a C1 6-C30 a- hydroxy acid.
  • ceramides which are preferred in the context of the present invention are those described by Downing in Arch. Dermatol. , Vol. 123 , 1381 - 1384, 1987, or those described in French patent FR 2 673 179.
  • the ceramide(s) that is (are) more particularly preferred according to the invention is (are) the compound(s) for which Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C1 6-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated linear C 1 5 radical.
  • Such compounds are, for example:
  • Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from fatty acids
  • R2 denotes a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical
  • waxes or waxy starting materials that may be used according to the invention are in particular marine waxes such as those sold by the company Sophim under the reference M82, and waxes o f polyethylene or of polyolefin in general.
  • the non-liquid fatty ethers are chosen from dialkyl ethers and in particular dicetyl ether and distearyl ether, alone or as a mixture.
  • the fatty substance(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention is (are) liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the fatty substance(s) used in the composition (A) according to the invention is (are) chosen from non silicone fatty substance(s), preferably from hydrocarbons, in particular linear or branched C 6 -Ci 6 alkanes and linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral, animal or synthetic origin, with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as liquid parafins, and derivatives thereof, petroleum jelly, liquid petroleum jelly; fatty acid esters, in particular oils of plant origin and esters of C 4 - C 22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 - C 22 alcohols, these esters being more preferentially chosen from triglycerides of plant origin and liquid fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition (A) comprises one or more non-silicone fatty substance(s) as described above, preferably liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, and more preferentially chosen from petroleum jelly, coconut oil, cetylstearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty substance(s) preferably non-silicone fatty substance(s)
  • its (their) total amount ranges from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 1 to 15 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A).
  • composition (A) is anhydrous, i. e. composition (A) contains less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% of water. Preferably composition (A) does not contain water.
  • aqueous composition refers to a composition comprising at least 5% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • an aqueous composition comprises more than 10% by weight of water, more preferably more than 20% by weight of water, and better still more than 50% by weight of water, relative to the total weight or the composition.
  • the composition may contain from 5 to 95% by weight, preferably from 10 to 90% by weight and better still from 20 to 80% by weight of water.
  • the aqueous composition (B) according to the present invention comprises one or more direct dye(s), preferably other than the natural plant powder that is present in composition (A).
  • direct dyes are chosen, for example, from those conventionally used in direct dyeing, and among which mention may be made of any commonly used aromatic and/or non-aromatic dyes such as neutral, acidic or cationic nitrobenzene direct dyes, neutral, acidic or cationic azo direct dyes, natural direct dyes, neutral, acidic or cationic quinone and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, azine, triarylmethane, indoamine, methine, styryl, porphyrin, metalloporphyrin, phthalocyanine, cyanine and methine direct dyes, and fluorescent dyes.
  • aromatic and/or non-aromatic dyes such as neutral, acidic or cationic nitrobenzene direct dyes, neutral, acidic or cationic azo direct dyes, natural direct dyes, neutral, acidic or cationic quinone and in particular anthraquinone direct dyes, azine, triarylmethane, in
  • the amount of direct dye(s), present in the composition (B), ranges preferably from 0.001 % to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.01 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
  • the aqueous composition (B) according to the present invention comprises one or more anionic direct dye(s).
  • Anionic direct dyes are particularly preferred.
  • anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly referred to as "acid" direct dyes for their affinity with alkaline substances.
  • the term “anionic direct dyes” is understood to mean any direct dye comprising, in its structure, at least one C0 2 R or SO3R substituent with R denoting a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or from an amine or an ammonium ion.
  • the anionic dyes can be chosen from acid nitro direct dyes, acid azo dyes, acid azine, acid triarylmethane dyes, acid indoamine dyes, acid anthraquinone dyes, indigoids and acid natural dyes.
  • R 7 , R8, R9, Ri o, R'7, R's , R'9 and R'10 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • R"-S(0) 2 - with R" representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or an aryl, (di)(alkyl)amino or aryl(alkyl)amino group; preferably a phenylamino or phenyl group;
  • aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0) 2 S(0 )- M + and iv) alkoxy with M + as defined above;
  • cycloalkyl in particular cyclohexyl
  • Ar-N N-, with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferably a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl, (0) 2 S(0 )- M + or phenylamino groups;
  • ⁇ W represents a sigma s bond, an oxygen or sulphur atom or a divalent radical i) -NR-, with R as defined above, or ii) methylene - C(R a )(R b )-, with R a and R b , which are identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or then R a and R b form, together with the carbon atom which carries them, a spiro cycloalkyl; preferably, W represents a sulphur atom or R a and R b together form a cyclohexyl;
  • formulae (I) and (G) comprise at least one sulphonate radical (0) 2 S(0 )- M + or one carboxylate radical (O)CO - M + on one of the A, A', B, B' or C rings; preferably sodium sulphonate.
  • dyes of formula (I) of: Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3, Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2; Food yellow 3 or sunset yellow.
  • dyes of formula (G) of: Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid Yellow 38.
  • Pyrazolone anionic azo dyes of formulae (II) and (IF) of formulae (II) and (IF)
  • Rn , R1 2 and Rn which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl or -(0) 2 S(0 ) M + group, with M + as defined above;
  • ⁇ R1 4 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a -C(0)0 M + group, with M + as defined above;
  • R 1 5 represents a hydrogen atom
  • Ri 6 represents an oxo group, in which case R'i 6 is absent, or then R1 5 with Ri 6 together form a double bond;
  • ⁇ R1 7 and Ri s which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • Ar-0-S(0) 2 - with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferably a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups;
  • R1 9 and R 2 o together form either a double bond or an optionally substituted benzo group D';
  • R’i 6 , R’i 9 and R' 20 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxyl group
  • R 2 I represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or alkoxy group
  • R a and R b which are identical or different, are as defined above; preferably, R a represents a hydrogen atom and R b represents an aryl group;
  • ⁇ Y represents either a hydroxyl group or an oxo group; ⁇ represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxyl group; it being understood that the formulae (II) and (IG) comprise at least one sulphonate radical (0) 2 S(0 )- M + or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 M + on either of the D or E rings; preferably sodium sulphonate.
  • R22 , R23 , R24 , R25 , R26 and R27 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • aryloxy or arylthio preferably substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0) 2 S(0 )- M + , with M + as defined above;
  • aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (0) 2 S(0 )- M + , with M + as defined above;
  • ⁇ Z' represents a hydrogen atom or an NR28R29 group with R28 and R29 , which are identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • - aryl optionally substituted by one or more groups, particularly i) alkyl, such as methyl, n-dodecyl or n-butyl; ii) (0) 2 S(0 )- M + , with M + as defined above; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)- or R°-X'-C(X)-
  • R° represents an alkyl group
  • ⁇ Z represents a group chosen from hydroxyl and NR'2sR'29 with R'2 8 and R'29 , which are identical or different, representing the same atoms or groups as R28 and R29 as defined above;
  • formulae (III) and (IIG) comprise at least one sulphonate radical (0) 2 S(0 )- M + or one carboxylate radical - C(0)0 M + ; preferably sodium sulphonate.
  • Acid Blue 25 Acid Blue 43 , Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 25 1 , Acid Green 25 , Acid Green 41 , Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43 , Mordant Red 3 ; EXT violet N° 2.
  • R 30 , R 3 1 and R 32 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • alkoxy optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups, alkylthio optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups;
  • R 30 , R 3 1 and R 32 represent a hydrogen atom
  • R c and R d which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group; ⁇ W is as defined above; W particularly represents an -NH- group;
  • ALK represents a divalent, linear or branched, Ci -C 6 alkylene group; particularly, ALK represents a -CH2-CH2- group;
  • ⁇ n has the value 1 or 2;
  • ⁇ p represents an integer of between 1 and 5 inclusive
  • ⁇ q represents an integer of between 1 and 4 inclusive
  • ⁇ u has the value 0 or 1 ;
  • J represents a nitro or nitroso group, particularly a nitro group
  • J represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or a divalent radical -S(0) m- with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferably, J represents an -SO2- radical;
  • ⁇ M' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion
  • ⁇ which is present or absent, represents a benzo group optionally substituted by one or more R30 groups as defined above; it being understood that the formulae (IV) and (IV) comprise at least one sulphonate radical (0) 2 S(0 )- M + or one carboxylate radical - C(0)0 M + ; preferably sodium sulphonate.
  • dyes of formula (IV) of: Acid Brown 13 ; Acid Orange 3 ; mention may be made, as example of dyes of formula (IV), of: Acid Yellow 1 , sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro- l - naphthol-7-sulphonic acid, 2-piperidino-5 -nitrobenzenesulphonic acid, 2- (4 '-N,N- (2 "-hydroxy ethyl) amino -2’-nitro) anilineethanesulphonic acid or 4-( -hydroxyethylamino)-3-nitrobenzenesulphonic acid, EXT D&C yellow 7.
  • R33 , R34 , R3 5 and R36 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl group and benzyl group optionally substituted by an (O) m S(O )- M + group, with M + and m as defined above;
  • R37 , R38 , R39 , R40 , R41 , R42 , R43 and R44 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from :
  • M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion
  • R4 1 with R42 or R42 with R43 or R43 with R44 together form a fused benzo group : G; with G optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (0) 2 S(0 )- M + ; iv) hydroxyl; v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino ; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X"-; with M + , R°, X, X' and X" as defined above;
  • R37 to R 4 o represent a hydrogen atom and R 4 I to R 44 , which are identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or (0) 2 S(0 )- M + group; and, when R 43 with R 44 together form a benzo group, it is preferably substituted by a (0) 2 S(0 )- group;
  • At least one of the G, H, I or G rings comprises at least one sulphonate radical (0) 2 S(0 )- or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 ; preferably sulphonate.
  • R 4 5 , R 4 6 , R 4 7 and R 4 8 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom;
  • R 4 9 , R50 , R5 1 and R52 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • R 45 R 46 , R 47 and R 48 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom
  • G represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or an NR e group with R e as defined above; particularly, G represents an oxygen atom;
  • ⁇ L represents an alkoxide O M + ; a thioalcoholate S M + or an NR f group, with R f representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M + as defined above; M + is particularly sodium or potassium;
  • ⁇ L' represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or an ammonium group : N + R f R g , with R f and R g , which are identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an optionally substituted aryl or alkyl group; L' particularly represents an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted by one or more alkyl or (O) m S(O )- M + groups, with m and M + as defined above;
  • ⁇ Q and Q' which are identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulphur atom; particularly, Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom;
  • ⁇ M + is as defined above.
  • R53 , R54, R55 , R56, R57, R58 , R59 and R 6 O which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:
  • M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion
  • G represents an oxygen or sulphur atom or an NR e group with R e as defined above; particularly, G represents an oxygen atom;
  • ⁇ Ri and R h which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • the formula (VII) comprises at least one sulphonate radical (0) 2 S(0 )- M + or one carboxylate radical -C(0)0 M + ; preferably sodium sulphonate.
  • ⁇ R 6 I represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl group
  • ⁇ R 6 2, R-63 and R 64 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an (0) 2 S(0 )- M + group, with M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
  • R 6 I with R 62 or R 6 I with R 64 together form a benzo group optionally substituted by one or more (0) 2 S(0 )- M + groups, with M + representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;
  • the formula (VIII) comprises at least one sulphonate radical (0) 2 S(0 )- M + , preferably sodium sulphonate.
  • dyes of formula (VIII) of: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.
  • dyes of formulae (I) to (VI) of use in the invention are chosen from:
  • the anionic dyes which are more particularly preferred are the dyes denoted in the Colour Index under the code C .I. 60730 (monosodium salt of 2-[(9, 10-dihydro-4-hydroxy-9, 10-dioxo- 1 - anthracenyl)amino]-5-methylbenzenesulphonic acid), C .I. 155 10 (monosodium salt of 4-[(2-hydroxy- 1 -naphthyl)azo]benzenesulphonic acid), C .I. 17200 (disodium salt of 5-amino-4-hydroxy-3-(phenylazo)- 2,7-naphthalenedisulphonic acid), C .I.
  • the amount of anionic direct dye(s), present in the composition (B), ranges preferably from 0.001 % to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.005% to 10% by weight, and better still from 0.01 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (B).
  • the aqueous composition (B) according to the present invention may comprise, one or more synthetic or natural direct dyes chosen from cationic, amphoteric or non ionic direct dyes.
  • Suitable additional direct dyes include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanins, hemicyanins and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanin dyes, and natural direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
  • the direct dyes can be chosen from cationic direct dyes. Mention may be made of the hydrazono cationic dyes of formulae (IXa) and (IX’a), the azo cationic dyes (Xa) and (X’a) and the diazo cationic dyes (XIa) below:
  • Het + represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably bearing an endocyclic cationic charge, such as imidazolium, indolium or pyridinium, optionally substituted preferentially with one or more (Ci -Cs) alkyl groups such as methyl;
  • Ar + representing an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, bearing an exocyclic cationic charge, preferentially ammonium, particularly tri(Ci -C 8 )alkylammonium such as trimethylammonium;
  • Ar represents an aryl group, especially phenyl, which is optionally substituted, preferentially with one or more electron- donating groups such as i) optionally substituted (Ci -Cs)alkyl, ii) optionally substituted (Ci -Cs)alkoxy, iii) (di)(Ci -C 8 )(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(Ci -C 8 )alkylamino, v) optionally substituted N-(Ci -Cs)alkyl-N- aryl(Ci -C 8 )alkylamino or alternatively Ar represents a julolidine group;
  • Ar is an optionally substituted divalent (hetero)arylene group such as phenylene, particularly para-phenylene, or naphthalene, which are optionally substituted, preferentially with one or more groups (Ci -C 8 )alkyl, hydroxyl or (Ci -C 8 )alkoxy;
  • Ar is an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl or pyrazolyl, which are optionally substituted, preferentially with one or more groups (Ci -C 8 )alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(Ci - C 8 )(alkyl)amino, (Ci -C 8 )alkoxy or phenyl;
  • R a and R b which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (Ci -C 8 )alkyl, which is optionally substituted, preferentially with a hydroxyl group;
  • R a and R b represent a hydrogen atom or a group (Ci -C 4 )alkyl, which is optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group;
  • An represents an anionic counter-ion such as mesylate or halide.
  • the cationic part is derived from the following derivatives: formulae (IXa- l ) and (Xa- l ) with:
  • R 1 representing a (Ci -C 4 ) alkyl group such as methyl
  • R 2 and R 3 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci -C 4 )alkyl group, such as methyl;
  • R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as optionally substituted (Ci -Cs)alkyl, optionally substituted (Ci - C 8 )alkoxy, or (di)(Ci -C 8 )(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group; particularly, R 4 is a hydrogen atom,
  • - Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferentially CH;
  • An represents an anionic counter-ion such as mesylate or halide.
  • the dye of formulae (IXa- l ) and (Xa- l ) is chosen from Basic Red 5 1 , Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 3 1 or derivatives thereof.
  • juglone alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin and orceins. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes may also be used.
  • composition (B) comprises at least one anionic direct dye and at least one direct dye different from anionic dyes.
  • composition (B) preferably comprises at least one anionic direct dye and at least one cationic direct dye.
  • aqueous composition (B) according to the present invention may further comprise one or more organic or mineral acid(s).
  • organic or mineral acid means an organic or mineral acid and/or the associated bases thereof with a pKa of less than or equal to 7, preferably less than or equal to 6, especially ranging from 1 to 6 and preferably from 2 to 5.
  • the acid(s) used in the aqueous composition (B) according to the invention is (are) chosen from organic acids, especially carboxylic and/or sulfonic acids.
  • the organic acid(s) is (are) chosen from saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acids, in particular propanoic acid, butanoic acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, maleic acid, glycolic acid, salicylic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid and mixtures thereof.
  • the acid(s) used in the aqueous composition (B) is (are) chosen from hydroxy acids, and more preferably citric acid.
  • the acid(s) used in the aqueous composition (B) according to the invention is (are) chosen from mineral acids and in particular from hydrochloric acid, sulfuric acid, nitric acid and phosphoric acid, in particular from hydrochloric acid and phosphoric acid.
  • the acid(s) When the acid(s) is (are) present in the aqueous composition (B), its (their) total amount usually ranges from 0. 1 % to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 15% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the aqueous composition
  • composition (A) and/or the aqueous composition (B) according to the present invention may further comprise one or more organic solvent(s).
  • organic solvents examples include linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers, for instance 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glyco l monomethyl ether; and also aromatic alcohols or ethers, for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.
  • linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol
  • glycerol polyols and polyol ethers
  • 2-butoxyethanol propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and diethylene glyco l monomethyl ether
  • aromatic alcohols or ethers for instance benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures
  • the composition (B) comprises at least one organic solvent, preferably chosen from aromatic alcohols or ethers, particularly benzyl alcohol.
  • the amount of organic solvents usually ranges from 0.5% to 25% by weight, and preferably from 1 % to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A) and/or to the total weight of the aqueous composition (B).
  • composition (A) and/or the aqueous composition (B) according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additive(s) other than the compounds of the invention.
  • composition (A) and/or (B), preferably composition (A), of the invention contains one or more optionally reduced saccharides, distinct from the alcohols quoted above as organic solvents.
  • the saccharides may be chosen from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides and polysaccharides.
  • the saccharides or reduced saccharides of the invention are solid, i.e. they are not liquids or syrups.
  • Monosaccharides , oligosaccharides and polysaccharides are known to those skilled in the art (see, for example, Ullmann 's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, published online on 15/04/2010, “Carbohydrates: Occurrence, Structures and Chemistry " , F. W. Lichtenthaler, vol. 6, pp. 617 to 646, DOI: 10. 1002/14356007. a05_079.pub2,).
  • the sugar(s) of the dye composition are chosen from monosaccharides. More precisely, the term " monosaccharide " means a sugar comprising only one unit, i.e. not comprising any covalent glycoside bonds with another sugar.
  • the " monosaccharides" of the invention are chosen from:
  • aldoses or polyhydroxyaldehydes, preferably comprising between 4 and 6 carbon atoms, such as erythrose or threose (4 carbon atoms), ribose, arabinose, xylose or lyxose (5 carbon atoms), allose, altrose, glucose, mannose, gulose, idose, galactose and talose (6 carbon atoms);
  • ketoses or polyhydroxy ketones preferably comprising between 4 and 6 carbon atoms, such as erythrulose (4 carbon atoms), ribulose, or xylulose (5 carbon atoms), psicose, fructose, sorbose and tagatose (6 carbon atoms); and
  • aldoses and ketoses as defined previously are also known as "sugar alcohols” or “alditols” . They are chosen in particular from erythritol, glucitol or sorbitol, mannitol and xylitol, preferably sorbitol.
  • sugar alcohol means "polyols” generally obtained by reduction of aldose or ketose monosaccharides as defined previously or of complex oligosaccharides or polysaccharides as defined below in which the aldehyde or ketone group(s) of the monosaccharide units are reduced, i.e. replaced with a hydroxyl group.
  • the sugars of the invention are of plant origin.
  • aldoses are of ketoses
  • saccharides also refer to the optical isomers thereof, the a and b anomers thereof and the L (laevorotatory) and D (dextrorotatory) forms thereof.
  • the monosaccharides of the invention comprise 6 carbon atoms.
  • oligosaccharide means a sugar in which the monosaccharides as defined previously are combined together via a covalent glycoside bond to give a simple polymer comprising from 2 to 10 monosaccharide units.
  • the oligosaccharides are chosen from disaccharides such as sucrose, trehalose and raffinose, lactose, cellobiose and maltose; a, b or g-cyclodextrins and the "sugar alcohol" reduced forms thereof such as isomaltulose, trehalulose, isomalt, maltitol and lactitol.
  • oligosaccharides also refers to the optical isomers thereof, the a and b anomers thereof and the L (laevorotatory) and D (dextrorotatory) forms thereof.
  • polysaccharides means oligosaccharides which comprise at least 1 1 monosaccharide units. Preferentially, the polysaccharides of the invention comprise between 20 and 100 000 monosaccharide units.
  • the polysaccharides of the invention may be chosen from those derived from the following sugars: i) glucose; ii) galactose; iii) arabinose; iv) rhamnose; v) mannose; vi) xylose; vii) fucose; viii) anhydrogalactose; ix) galacturonic acid; x) glucuronic acid; xi) mannuronic acid; xii) galactose sulfate; xiii) anhydrogalactose sulfate.
  • the polymers bearing sugar units of the invention may be natural or synthetic.
  • They may be nonionic, anionic, amphoteric or cationic.
  • the saccharide(s) of the invention are other than sucrose.
  • the saccharide(s) of the invention are chosen from monosaccharides and disaccharides and in particular from aldoses, ketoses and the reduced forms thereof, namely sugar alcohols such as sorbitol.
  • sugar(s) are chosen from sugar alcohols of aldose and ketose monosaccharides such as sorbitol.
  • composition A contains at least a saccharide, as above described, preferably chosen from monosaccharides in reduced form, especially sugar alcohols such as sorbitol.
  • the saccharide(s) are in an amount inclusively between 0. 1 % and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A, more particularly between 0.2% and 20% by weight, preferentially between 0.5% and 10% by weight and more preferentially between 0.7% and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the said composition.
  • additives that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers or mixtures thereof, cationic, anionic, non-ionic, zwitterionic or amphoteric surfactants or mixtures thereof antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, acidifying agents, mineral or organic thickeners, especially polymeric thickeners, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, fragrances and preserving agents.
  • the above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0.001 % and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A) and/or to the total weight of the aqueous composition (B).
  • composition (A) and/or the aqueous composition (B) according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additive(s) other than the compounds of the invention.
  • additives that may be used in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers, different from polysaccharides previously described, or mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, , mineral or organic thickeners, especially polymeric thickeners different from polysaccharides previously described, opacifiers or nacreous agents, antioxidants, fragrances and preserving agents.
  • anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers different from polysaccharides previously described, or mixtures thereof, antidandruff agents, anti-seborrhoea agents, agents for preventing hair loss and/or for promoting hair regrowth, sunscreens, mineral or organic pigments, sequestrants, plasticizers, solubilizers, , mineral or organic thickeners, especially
  • the above additives may generally be present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0.001 % and 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition (A) and/or to the total weight of the aqueous composition (B).
  • Another obj ect of the present invention relates to a method for dyeing keratin fibres, and in particular human keratin fibres, wherein the following steps are successively performed:
  • the sustained pressure is applied to the compartment 7b comprising the aqueous composition (B) in order to break the internal frangible seal 8.
  • compositions (A) and (B) After breaking the internal frangible seal 8, compositions (A) and (B) commingle instantly in order to provide a dyeing composition.
  • the dyeing composition may be mixed by shaking or turning upside-down the closed envelop 2.
  • the closed envelop 2 is then opened by way of tearing or cutting with a pair of scissors.
  • the closed envelop 2 is opened by tearing the pre-cut line 14.
  • the dyeing composition thus obtained is then directly applied on the keratin fibres.
  • the dyeing composition is rinsed with water.
  • keratin fibres denotes human keratin fibres, and in particular human hair.
  • compositions (A) and (B) can be prepared according to the following ingredients shown in the table below, the amounts of which are expressed as percent by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions can be introduced into a dual sachet made o f a multilayer polyethylene film and divided into two iso-size compartments separated by a frangible seal.
  • Composition A can be introduced in one compartment and composition B in the second compartment so that both compositions are not in contact during the time of storage.
  • the ratio between composition A and composition B can range from 0.5 :99.5 to 99.5 :0.5 , in particular about 25 :75.
  • a hand-pressure can be applied onto the compartment containing composition B, enabling to break the seal in-between and allowing both compositions to easily mix together. The mixture thereof can then be kept soaking for 15 minutes.
  • composition according to the invention is expected to provide an instant composition that confers good dyeing properties to the hair, especially significant darker and more intense colouration, especially significant dark and intense colouration .

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne un dispositif à compartiments multiples composé d'une enveloppe fermée (2) divisée en au moins deux compartiments distincts (7a, 7b) séparés entre eux par au moins un joint cassable interne (8), au moins un des compartiments (7a) contenant une composition (A) comprenant au moins une poudre végétale naturelle, et le second compartiment (7b) contenant une composition aqueuse (B) comprenant au moins un colorant direct, plus préférentiellement au moins un colorant direct anionique. L'invention concerne également un procédé de coloration de fibres de kératine, et en particulier des fibres de kératine humaines, utilisant le dispositif à compartiments multiples.
PCT/EP2018/085182 2017-12-22 2018-12-17 Dispositif à compartiments multiples comprenant au moins un joint cassable interne WO2019121503A2 (fr)

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WO2021124348A1 (fr) * 2019-12-20 2021-06-24 L'ORéAL S.A. Dispositif à compartiments multiples comprenant au moins un joint d'étanchéité cassable interne contenant une composition de coloration de fibres de kératine

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WO1995001772A1 (fr) 1993-07-05 1995-01-19 Ciba-Geigy Ag Procede de teinture de fibres keratiniques
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WO2021124348A1 (fr) * 2019-12-20 2021-06-24 L'ORéAL S.A. Dispositif à compartiments multiples comprenant au moins un joint d'étanchéité cassable interne contenant une composition de coloration de fibres de kératine

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