WO2016097123A1 - Composition pour la coloration directe de fibres kératiniques, sous la forme d'une microémulsion à base d'eau, d'huile(s) et de tensioactif(s) - Google Patents

Composition pour la coloration directe de fibres kératiniques, sous la forme d'une microémulsion à base d'eau, d'huile(s) et de tensioactif(s) Download PDF

Info

Publication number
WO2016097123A1
WO2016097123A1 PCT/EP2015/080190 EP2015080190W WO2016097123A1 WO 2016097123 A1 WO2016097123 A1 WO 2016097123A1 EP 2015080190 W EP2015080190 W EP 2015080190W WO 2016097123 A1 WO2016097123 A1 WO 2016097123A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
oil
composition
chosen
alkyl
mixtures
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/EP2015/080190
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Boris Lalleman
Alain Lagrange
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Publication of WO2016097123A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016097123A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/06—Preparations for styling the hair, e.g. by temporary shaping or colouring
    • A61Q5/065—Preparations for temporary colouring the hair, e.g. direct dyes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/068—Microemulsions

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition (A) for dyeing keratin fibres, such as the hair, in the form of a microemulsion comprising i) at least water, ii) at least one oil, iii) at least one surfactant, and iv) at least one direct dye, said composition being free of chemical oxidizing agent.
  • a subject of this invention is also a process for dyeing keratin fibres using such a composition, and also a multi-compartment device comprising said composition.
  • oxidation dyeing or permanent dyeing.
  • oxidation bases such as ortho- or para-phenylenediamines, ortho- or para-aminophenols and heterocyclic compounds.
  • couplers are colourless or weakly coloured compounds, which, when combined with oxidizing products, may give rise to coloured compounds by a process of oxidative condensation.
  • This type of oxidation dyeing makes it possible to obtain permanent colourings, but it results in degradation of the keratin fibres due to the use of oxidizing agents.
  • direct or semi-permanent dyeing comprising the application of direct dyes, which are coloured and colouring molecules of natural or synthetic origin, which have affinity for fibres. Given the nature of the molecules used, they tend rather to remain on the surface of the fibre and penetrate relatively little into the fibre, when compared with the small molecules of oxidation dye precursors.
  • the direct dyes generally used are chosen from nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, methine, azomethine, xanthene, acridine, azine and triarylmethane direct dyes.
  • the chemical species used may be nonionic, anionic (acidic dyes) or cationic (basic dyes).
  • compositions containing one or more direct dyes are applied to keratin fibres for a time necessary to obtain the desired colouring, and are then rinsed out.
  • the colourings resulting therefrom are particularly chromatic colourings, but are, however, only temporary or semi-permanent since the nature of the interactions that bind the direct dyes to the keratin fibre and their desorption from the surface and/or the core of the fibre are responsible for their weak dyeing power and their poor persistence with respect to washing.
  • This type of process does not require the use of an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide to develop the colouring, unlike permanent dyeing processes, the use of a chemical oxidizing agent possibly resulting in degradation of the fibres.
  • dyeing compositions may be in the form of emulsions or nanoemulsions.
  • these architectures may have instability problems, in particular phase separation, i.e. separation into two visually distinct phases with the oily phase on one side and the aqueous phase on the other. This problem of instability of the emulsion is increased in the case of oil-rich emulsions (or nanoemulsions).
  • One solution for improving the stability of these compositions may be to increase the concentration of emulsifier(s).
  • a high concentration of emulsifiers especially of surfactants
  • a large content of surfactants may curb the dyeing on account of the possible interactions between the dyes and these surfactants.
  • nanoemulsions which are thermodynamically unstable systems, generally require an appreciable input of energy in order to be obtained.
  • compositions that are stable over time, in particular which remain homogeneous and do not have any problem of phase separation, for example after at least 1 or even 2 months at 45°C, and which may be readily prepared.
  • compositions whose dyeing efficacy is improved in particular making it possible to reduce the amount of active agents and/or of composition required and/or of the application time of the composition on the fibres to dye them.
  • the Applicant has found, surprisingly, that it is possible to overcome the problems mentioned previously by proposing a composition in the form of a microemulsion comprising a surfactant or a mixture of surfactants and an oily phase.
  • composition (A) for dyeing keratin fibres, such as the hair, in the form of a microemulsion comprising:
  • composition being free of chemical oxidizing agent.
  • one subject of the invention is a composition for dyeing keratin fibres, in the form of a microemulsion comprising:
  • a subject of the present invention is also a process for dyeing keratin fibres, which consists in applying to the keratin fibres at least one composition according to the invention.
  • a subject of this invention is also a multi-compartment device comprising at least one composition according to the invention in the form of a microemulsion as defined previously and at least one composition B.
  • composition B may especially comprise at least one oxidizing agent.
  • composition B comprises
  • compostion B is also in the form of a microemulsion.
  • a subject of this invention is also a multi-compartment device comprising a plurality of compositions, the mixing of which leads to a composition according to the invention in the form of a microemulsion as described previously.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise a basifying agent.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise an oxidation dye.
  • composition according to the invention also comprises at least one basifying agent.
  • the dyeing process according to the invention uses at least one chemical oxidizing agent, which may optionally be included in a second composition (B) comprising at least one oxidizing agent.
  • Another subject of the invention is a process for dyeing keratin fibres, which consists in extemporaneously mixing at the time of use two compositions (A) and (B) and in applying said mixture to said fibres;
  • composition (A) representing a composition in the form of a microemulsion comprising:
  • composition (A) being free of chemical oxidizing agent
  • composition (B) representing a composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent.
  • the second composition (B) is also in the form of a microemulsion.
  • composition B comprises: at least water, at least one surfactant and at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
  • the microemulsion according to the invention results from the mixing of several compositions, these compositions optionally being in the form of microemulsions.
  • the microemulsion according to the invention results from the mixing of several compositions, preferably two compositions, these compositions being in the form of microemulsions.
  • composition according to the invention is stable and the process according to the invention makes it possible to dye keratin fibres efficiently, homogeneously and/or intensely.
  • the colourings obtained are strong and/or resistant to external attacking factors and/or sparingly selective.
  • composition according to the present invention has very good working qualities, and especially a particularly pleasant texture.
  • composition according to the invention is generally transparent or translucent.
  • microemulsion means a thermodynamically stable, microscopically heterogeneous and macroscopically homogeneous mixture of two mutually immiscible liquid substances, such as an oily phase and an aqueous phase.
  • Microemulsions may be of oil-in-water type (O/W), i.e. droplets of oil dissolved in the form of direct micelles swollen in an aqueous continuous phase, or of water-in-oil type (W/O), i.e. droplets of water dissolved in the form of reverse micelles swollen in an oily continuous phase, or alternatively of bicontinuous type, i.e. in the form of structures in which the water and the oil are codissolved, the water and the oil being able to be considered simultaneously as being the continuous phase or the dispersed phase.
  • O/W oil-in-water type
  • W/O water-in-oil type
  • bicontinuous type i.e. in the form of structures in which the water and the oil are codissolved
  • Microemulsions are to be distinguished from nanoemulsions, which are thermodynamically unstable dispersions of oil or water droplets in a continuous aqueous or oily phase.
  • Microemulsions are formed by simple mixing of the various constituents, without the need for a large energy input.
  • the microemulsion according to the invention has the advantage of being able to be prepared without heating, without a large energy input, which facilitates its industrial manufacture and, moreover, of being able to use heat-sensitive active agents which it may be difficult to incorporate into standard emulsions or nanoemulsions when the manufacturing process requires a heating step liable to degrade them.
  • microemulsions generally have a particular microstructure formed from microdroplets whose size is such that light passes through them without being scattered, and as such the appearance of this composition is transparent or translucent, whereas the appearance of a standard emulsion is opaque.
  • microemulsion according to the invention has the advantage of being stable, even when the amount of oil present is high, in particular when it is greater than 5% or 10% or even 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, especially when it is desired to limit the content of surfactants.
  • the microemulsion according to the invention has the advantage of allowing better penetration of the active agents into the keratin fibre due to the small size of its microdroplets and thus of constituting a better vector for the active agents. Furthermore, a microemulsion according to the invention may contain a larger amount of active agents, and in particular of active agents that are difficult to dissolve.
  • this makes it possible to reduce the amount of active agents and/or of dye composition required and/or the application time of the composition on the fibres to dye or bleach them.
  • the numerical mean size of the droplets of the dispersed phase of the microemulsions of the invention is preferably less than 100 nm, even more preferentially less than 50 nm and better still between 1 and 50 nm.
  • the numerical mean size of the particles may be determined in particular according to the known method of quasi-elastic light scattering.
  • a machine that may be used for this determination mention may be made of the Brookhaven brand machine equipped with an SX 200 optical bed (with a 532 nm laser) and a Bl 9000 correlator.
  • This machine gives a measurement of the mean diameter by photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS), which makes it possible to determine the numerical mean diameter from the polydispersity factor, which is also measured by the machine.
  • PCS photon correlation spectroscopy
  • microemulsion may be prepared via standard processes for preparing microemulsions, which are well known to those skilled in the art, in particular following the production of phase diagrams for determining the formation domain of the microemulsion.
  • the microemulsion according to the invention has the advantage of being able to comprise a limited content of emulsifiers, especially of surfactants, while at the same time remaining stable. Specifically, even after treating in a centrifuge, the microemulsion according to the invention spontaneously returns to its initial thermodynamic equilibrium at a given temperature. Moreover, the microemulsion remains stable even after 2 months of storage at 45°C. Such a composition has the advantage of limiting the abovementioned drawbacks associated with a very high concentration of emulsifiers.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of surfactants of between 0.1 % and 50% by weight, preferably between 1 % and 30% by weight and better still between 5% and 19% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a total content of surfactants of between 0.1 % and 50% by weight, preferably between 1 % and 30% by weight and better still between 5% and 19% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the human keratin fibres treated via the process according to the invention are preferably the hair.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one direct dye.
  • the direct dye(s) may be chosen from synthetic direct dyes and natural direct dyes.
  • synthetic direct dye means any direct dye that does not exist in the natural state, including dyes obtained semi-synthetically.
  • azo direct dyes examples include the following dyes, described in Colour Index International, 3rd edition:
  • one of the nitrogen or carbon atoms of the sequences may be part of a ring.
  • the methine dyes are derived from methine, azomethine, hydrazono, mono- and diarylmethane, indoamine (or diphenylamine), indophenol, indoaniline and (hemi)cyanine compounds, such as styryl, streptocyanine, carbocyanine, azacarbocyanine, diazacarbocyanine and tetraazacarbocyanine, such as tetraazapentamethine, dyes, and optical and geometric isomers thereof.
  • azo, azomethine, methine or tetraazapentamethine direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the cationic dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP 714954; FR 2189006, FR 2285851 , FR 2140205, EP 1378544, EP 1674073.
  • indoamine dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds:
  • X " representing an anion preferably chosen from chloride, iodide, methyl sulfate, ethyl sulfate, acetate and perchlorate.
  • the synthetic direct dyes of the carbonyl family examples include dyes chosen from quinone, acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyranthrone, pyrazolanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavanthrone, idanthrone, flavone, (iso)violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, indigoid, thioindigo, naphthalimide, anthrapyrimidine, diketopyrrolopyrrole and coumarin dyes.
  • the synthetic direct dyes of the azine family mention may be made especially of azine, fluorindine, acridine, (di)oxazine and (di)thiazine dyes.
  • azine dyes examples include the following compounds:
  • the synthetic direct dyes of the xanthene family mention may be made especially of xanthene, thioxanthene and pyronine dyes.
  • nitro(hetero)aryl synthetic direct dyes are more particularly nitrobenzene or nitropyridine direct dyes.
  • nitrobenzene direct dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made in a non-limiting manner of the following compounds:
  • triarylmethane dyes that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the following compounds:
  • cationic or non-cationic compounds optionally comprising one or more metals or metal ions, for instance alkali metals and alkaline-earth metals, zinc and silicon.
  • nitrobenzene dyes examples include nitrobenzene dyes; azo, methine, azomethine, hydrazono or styryl direct dyes; azacarbocyanines such as tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); quinone direct dyes, and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone direct dyes; azine direct dyes; xanthene direct dyes; triarylmethane direct dyes; indoamine direct dyes, indigoid direct dyes, phthalocyanine direct dyes and porphyrin direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
  • nitrobenzene dyes examples include nitrobenzene dyes; azo, methine, azomethine, hydrazono or styryl direct dyes; azacarbocyanines such as tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentameth
  • These dyes may be monochromophoric dyes (i.e. comprising only one dye) or polychromophoric, preferably di- or trichromophoric; the chromophores possibly being identical or different, and from the same chemical family or otherwise.
  • a polychromophoric dye comprises a plurality of groups each derived from a molecule that absorbs in the visible region between 400 and 800 nm. Furthermore, this absorbance of the dye does not require any prior oxidation thereof, or combination with any other chemical species.
  • the chromophores are connected together by means of at least one linker L, which may be cationic or non-cationic.
  • the linker L is preferably a linear, branched or cyclic C1-C2 0 alkyl chain which is optionally interrupted and/or terminated with at least i) a heteroatom (such as nitrogen N(R), N + R, R', Q " , oxygen or sulfur), ii) a group C(O), C(S), S(O), or S(0) 2 or iii) a combination thereof, optionally interrupted with at least one heterocycle which may or may not be fused to a phenyl nucleus, and which comprises at least one quaternized nitrogen atom forming part of said ring system, and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as oxygen, nitrogen or sulfur), optionally interrupted with at least one substituted or unsubstituted phenyl or naphthyl, optionally at least one quaternary am
  • a heteroatom such as nitrogen N
  • heterocycles or aromatic nuclei are substituted, for example, with one or more CrC 8 alkyl groups optionally substituted with a hydroxyl, C1-C2 alkoxy, C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy, acetylamino or amino group substituted with one or two Ci-C 4 alkyl groups, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group, or the two groups possibly forming, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 6- membered heterocycle, optionally comprising another nitrogen or non-nitrogen heteroatom; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a Ci-C 2 alkoxy group; a C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy group; an amino group; an amino group substituted with one or two identical or different d-C 4 alkyl groups, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group.
  • the dye(s) are chosen from (poly)azo dyes such as (di)azo dyes; hydrazono dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as styryl dyes; anthraquinone dyes and naphthalimide dyes.
  • these dyes are (poly)cationic.
  • the dyes are chosen from cationic dyes known as "basic dyes".
  • Het + represents a cationic heteroaryl group, preferably bearing an endocyclic cationic charge, such as imidazolium, indolium or pyridinium, optionally substituted preferentially with one or more Ci-C 8 alkyl groups such as methyl;
  • Ar + represents an aryl group, such as phenyl or naphthyl, bearing an exocyclic cationic charge, preferentially ammonium, particularly tri(CrC 8 alkyl)ammonium such as trimethylammonium;
  • Ar represents an aryl group, especially phenyl, which is optionally substituted, preferably with one or more electron-donating groups such as i) optionally substituted Ci-C 8 alkyl, ii) optionally substituted Ci-C 8 alkoxy, iii) (di)(Ci-C 8 alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(Ci-C 8 alkyl)amino, or v) optionally substituted N-(Ci-C 8 alkyl)-N-aryl(Ci-C 8 alkyl)amino, or alternatively Ar represents a julolidine group;
  • Ar' is an optionally substituted divalent (hetero)arylene group such as phenylene, particularly para-phenylene, or naphthalene, which are optionally substituted, preferably with one or more CrC 8 alkyl, hydroxyl or CrC 8 alkoxy groups;
  • - Ar is an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl or pyrazolyl, which are optionally substituted, preferably with one or more Ci-C 8 alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(Ci-C 8 alkyl)amino, Ci-C 8 alkoxy or phenyl groups;
  • R a and R b which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C C 8 alkyl group, which is optionally substituted, preferentially with a hydroxyl group; or alternatively the substituent R a with a substituent of Het + and/or R b with a substituent of Ar form, together with the atoms that bear them, a (hetero)cycloalkyl; particularly, R a and R b represent a hydrogen atom or a CrC 4 alkyl group, which is optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group;
  • - Q " represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion, such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.
  • the dyes of the invention are cationically charged, endocyclic, azo and hydrazono dyes of formulae (I), ( ⁇ ) and (II) as defined previously.
  • the dyes of formulae (I), ( ⁇ ) and (II) described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP 714954 are more particularly preferred.
  • Dyes of the invention are preferentially chosen from the following compounds:
  • R 1 represents a C C 4 alkyl group such as methyl
  • R 2 and R 3 which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C C 4 alkyl group such as methyl
  • R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as optionally substituted Ci-C 8 alkyl, optionally substituted Ci-C 8 alkoxy, or (di)(CrC 8 alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) with a hydroxyl group; particularly, R 4 is a hydrogen atom;
  • Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH;
  • the dyes of formulae (1-1 ) and (11-1 ) are chosen from Basic Red 51 , Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or their derivatives:
  • Q " is as defined previously, and represents in particular a halide such as a chloride, or an alkyl sulfate such as methyl sulfate or mesityl.
  • polychromophoric dyes comprising on the one hand at least one 5- or 6-membered aromatic heterocycle, optionally fused, which comprises at least one quaternized nitrogen atom forming part of said heterocycle, and optionally at least one other heteroatom (such as nitrogen, sulfur or oxygen), and, on the other hand, at least one optionally substituted phenyl or naphthyl group optionally bearing at least one group OR in which R represents a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted CrC 6 alkyl group, an optionally substituted phenyl nucleus, or at least one group N(R') 2 with R', which may be identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted Ci-C 6 alkyl group or an optionally substituted phenyl nucleus; the groups R' possibly forming, with the nitrogen
  • Aromatic cationic heterocycles that may preferably be mentioned include 5- or 6-membered rings containing 1 to 3 nitrogen atoms and preferably 1 or 2 nitrogen atoms, one being quaternized; said heterocycle moreover being optionally fused to a benzene nucleus. It should similarly be noted that the heterocycle may optionally comprise another heteroatom other than nitrogen, for instance sulfur or oxygen.
  • heterocycles or phenyl or naphthyl groups are substituted, for example, with one or more Ci-C 8 alkyl groups optionally substituted with a hydroxyl, CrC 2 alkoxy, C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy, acetylamino or amino group substituted with one or two C C 4 alkyl groups, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group, or the two groups possibly forming, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a 5- or 6-membered heterocycle, optionally comprising another nitrogen or non-nitrogen heteroatom; a halogen atom; a hydroxyl group; a Ci-C 2 alkoxy group; a C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkoxy group; an amino group; an amino group substituted with one or two identical or different d-C 4 alkyl groups, optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group.
  • the bonding between the linker L and each chromophore generally takes place via a heteroatom substituent on the phenyl or naphthyl nucleus or via the quaternized nitrogen atom of the cationic heterocycle.
  • the dye may comprise identical or different chromophores.
  • EP 1 637 566 EP 1 619 221 , EP 1 634 926, EP 1 619 220, EP 1 672 033, EP 1 671 954, EP 1 671 955, EP 1 679 312, EP 1 671 951 , EP 167 952, EP 167 971 , WO 06/063 866, WO 06/063 867, WO 06/063 868, WO 06/063 869, EP 1 408 919, EP 1 377 264, EP 1 377 262, EP 1 377 261 , EP 1 377 263, EP 1 399 425, EP 1 399 1 17, EP 1 416 909, EP 1 399 1 16 and EP 1 671 560.
  • EP 1 006 153 which describes dyes comprising two chromophores of anthraquinone type connected via a cationic linker
  • EP 1 433 472, EP 1 433 474, EP 1 433 471 and EP 1 433 473 which describe identical or different dichromophoric dyes, connected via a cationic or non-cationic linker
  • EP 6 291 333 which especially describes dyes comprising three chromophores, one of them being an anthraquinone chromophore, to which are attached two chromophores of azo or diazacarbocyanine type or an isomer thereof.
  • natural dyes means any dye or dye precursor that is naturally occurring and that is produced either by extraction (and possibly purification) from a plant or animal matrix, optionally in the presence of natural compounds such as ash or ammonia, or by chemical synthesis.
  • Natural dyes that may be mentioned include lawsone, henna, curcumin, chlorophyllin, alizarin, kermesic acid, purpurin, purpurogallin, indigo, Tyrian purple, sorghum, carminic acid, catechin, epicatechin, juglone, bixin, betanin, quercetin, chromene dyes and chroman dyes, including haematein and brazilein, and laccaic acids, alone or as a mixture.
  • the natural dyes used in the invention are chosen from curcumin, chlorophylline, chromene dyes, chroman dyes and laccaic acids.
  • chromene dye and "chroman dye” mean dyes which comprise in their structure at least one bicycle of formula (IV) below:
  • the dyes having in their structure a bicycle of formula (IV) are chosen from the dyes having the following formulae:
  • i) represents a carbon-carbon single bond or a carbon-carbon double bond, the sequence of these bonds denoting two carbon-carbon single bonds and two carbon-carbon double bonds, said bonds being conjugated,
  • X represents a group: // /
  • R 1 , R 2 , R 3 , R 4 , R 5 and R 6 which may be identical or different, represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group, an optionally substituted alkyl group, an optionally substituted alkoxy group or an optionally substituted acyloxy group,
  • Rii, Ri2, Ri3, Ri6, Ri9 and R 2 o which may be identical or different, represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C 4 alkyl group,
  • R-I4, R-I5, R-I7 and Ri 8 which may be identical or different, represent, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl group or a Ci-C 4 alkoxy group,
  • alkyi groups mentioned in the preceding definitions of the substituents are linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon groups, generally C1-C2 0 , particularly d- C1 0 and preferably Ci-C 6 , such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl and hexyl.
  • the alkoxy groups are alkyl-oxy groups with alkyi groups as defined previously and preferably the alkoxy groups are C1-C1 0 , such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy and butoxy.
  • alkyi or alkoxy groups when they are substituted, may be substituted with at least one substituent borne by at least one carbon atom, chosen from:
  • an optionally cationic 5- or 6-membered heteroaryl group preferentially imidazolium, optionally substituted with a (CrC 4 )alkyl group, preferentially methyl;
  • alkyi groups an amino group optionally substituted with one or two optionally substituted C1-C3 alkyi groups, it being possible for said alkyi groups to form, with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a saturated or unsaturated and optionally substituted 5- to 7-membered heterocycle, optionally comprising at least one other nitrogen or non-nitrogen heteroatom,
  • an acylamino group (-NR-COR') in which the group R is a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C 4 alkyi group optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the group R' is a C1-C2 alkyi group;
  • R a carbamoyl group ((R) 2 N-CO-) in which the groups R, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C 4 alkyi group optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group;
  • an alkylsulfonylamino group (R'S0 2 -NR-) in which the group R represents a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyi group optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group and the group R' represents a Ci-C 4 alkyi group, or a phenyl group; an aminosulfonyl group ((R) 2 N-S0 2 -) in which the groups R, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl group optionally bearing at least one hydroxyl group;
  • a carboxylic group in acid or salified form preferably with an alkali metal or a substituted or unsubstituted ammonium
  • a phenylcarbonyloxy group optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups
  • glycosyl group means a group originating from a mono- or polysaccharide.
  • the alkyl or alkoxy groups of formula (V) are unsubstituted.
  • the dyes of formula (V) comprise a group R 6 which represents a hydroxyl group.
  • Another particular embodiment of the invention relates to the dyes of formula (V), for which the group R 1 represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group.
  • the dyes of formula (V) are chosen from haematein and brazilein.
  • Brazilein is a conjugated form of a chroman compound of formula IV-2.
  • the tautomeric structures (Va) and (Vb) illustrated above are found in the scheme below.
  • Brazilein and haematein or the haematoxylin/haematein and brazilin/brazilein pairings may be obtained synthetically or by extraction of plants known to be rich in these dyes.
  • the dyes of formula (V) may be used in the form of extracts. Use may be made of the following plant extracts (genus and species): Haematoxylon campechianum, Haematoxylon brasiletto, Caesalpinia echinata, Caesalpinia sappan, Caesalpinia spinosa and Caesalpinia brasiliensis.
  • the extracts are obtained by extracting various plant parts, for instance the root, the wood, the bark or the leaves.
  • the natural dyes of formula (V) are obtained from logwood, pernambuco wood, sappan wood and Brazil wood.
  • the salts of the dyes of formulae (V) and (VI) of the invention may be salts of cosmetically acceptable acids or bases.
  • the acids may be mineral or organic.
  • the acid is hydrochloric acid, which results in chlorides.
  • the bases may be mineral or organic.
  • the bases are alkali metal hydroxides such as sodium hydroxide which leads to sodium salts.
  • the dye(s) of formulae (V) and (VI) included in the composition according to the invention are derived from plant extracts. Use may also be made of mixtures of plant extracts.
  • the natural extracts of the dyes according to the invention may be in the form of powders or liquids.
  • the extracts are provided in powder form.
  • the natural dyes are chosen from laccaic acids.
  • laccaic acid means a compound having in its structure a unit of the type:
  • the laccaic acids of the invention are of formula (VII) below:
  • R-i denoting a phenyl group substituted with at least one hydroxyl group, and preferably with a hydroxyl group that is advantageously in the ortho position relative to the bond attaching it to the fused nuclei.
  • the phenyl group Ri comprises, besides a hydroxyl group, at least one group -CH 2 R 2 , R 2 denoting an acetamidomethyl (CH 3 CONHCH 2 -), hydroxymethyl (HOCH 2 -) or 2-aminoacetic acid group (H0 2 C(NH 2 )CH-).
  • the laccaic acids of the invention are chosen from laccaic acids A, B, C and D, or mixtures thereof, and more particularly chosen from A, B and C, or mixtures thereof.
  • a laccaic acid according to the invention that may especially be used is the dye CI Natural Red 25, CI 75450, CAS - 60687-93-6, which is often referred to as laccaic acid.
  • This is a dye of natural origin originating from the secretions of an insect, Coccus laccae (Lacifer Lacca Kerr), which is generally found on the twigs of certain trees native to South-East Asia.
  • CI Natural Red 25 generally contains two major constituents in its composition: laccaic acid A and laccaic acid B. It may also contain a small amount of laccaic acid C.
  • the natural direct dyes are chosen from haematein and brazilein.
  • the direct dye(s) are chosen from:
  • - synthetic direct dyes preferably chosen from nitrobenzene dyes; azo, methine, azomethine, hydrazono or styryl direct dyes; azacarbocyanines such as tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); quinone direct dyes, and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone direct dyes; azine direct dyes; xanthene direct dyes; triarylmethane direct dyes; indoamine direct dyes, indigoid direct dyes, phthalocyanine direct dyes and porphyrin direct dyes, alone or as mixtures;
  • - natural dyes preferably chosen from lawsone, henna, curcumin, chlorophyllin, alizarin, kermesic acid, purpurin, purpurogallin, indigo, Tyrian purple, sorghum, carminic acid, catechin, epicatechin, juglone, bixin, betanin, quercetin, chromene dyes and chroman dyes, including haematein and brazilein, and laccaic acids, alone or as mixtures;
  • the direct dye(s) may be present in a total content ranging from 0.001 % to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 % to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1 % to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil, i.e. at least one liquid fatty substance.
  • fatty substance means an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility of less than 5%, preferably less than 1 % and even more preferentially less than 0.1 %). They bear in their structure at least one hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups.
  • the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, for instance chloroform, dichloromethane, carbon tetrachloride, ethanol, benzene, toluene, tetrahydrofuran (THF), liquid petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.
  • o/7 means a "fatty substance” that is liquid at room temperature
  • liquid fatty substances of the invention do not contain any salified or unsalified carboxylic acid groups (COOH or COO " ).
  • the fatty substances of the invention are neither polyoxyalkylenated nor polyglycerolated.
  • oil means a non-aqueous, water-immiscible compound, which is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the oil may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils and/or fluoro oils.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted of, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • sicone ⁇ means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom.
  • non-silicone o/V means an oil not containing any silicon (Si) atoms.
  • fluoro oil means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.
  • the viscosity at a temperature of 25°C and at a shear rate of 1 s "1 of the oil is between 10 "3 Pa.s and 2 Pa.s. It may be measured using a Thermo Haake RS600 rheometer with cone-plate geometry or an equivalent machine.
  • the total content of oil(s) in the composition according to the invention is greater than or equal to 5% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a total content of oil(s) of between 5% and 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention has a total content of oil(s) of between 10% and 40% by weight and better still between 15% and 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil with a polarity £ of less than 2.5, with £ corresponding to the dielectric constant at 25°C of the oil.
  • oils with a polarity £ of less than 2.5 are conventionally apolar oils.
  • the oil with a polarity £ of less than 2.5 is chosen from:
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral, animal or synthetic origin, which are optionally halogenated, comprising between 6 and 16 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, perfluorohexane and isohexadecane, and mixtures thereof;
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, which are optionally halogenated, comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, preferably chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, polydecene, liquid paraffin or derivatives thereof, squalane, isoeicosane, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes and hydrogenated polyisobutylenes, and mixtures thereof;
  • the oil(s) used in the composition according to the invention are non- silicone oils.
  • hydrocarbon-based oils are used.
  • the oil with a polarity £ of less than 2.5 is a linear or branched hydrocarbon, of mineral or synthetic origin.
  • it is chosen from:
  • branched C 8 -Ci 6 alkanes for instance C 8 -Ci 6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isohexadecane and isodecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade name Isopar or Permethyl,
  • linear alkanes for instance n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C1 1 ) and
  • linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, and especially
  • the oil with a polarity £ of less than 2.5 is a liquid hydrocarbon chosen
  • C 6 -Ci 6 alkanes and isoalkanes preferably such as isododecane
  • the oil(s) used in the composition according to the invention are hydrocarbon-based oils.
  • the oil with a polarity £ of less than 2.5 is a hydrocarbon-based oil, preferably a liquid hydrocarbon.
  • the oil with a polarity £ of less than 2.5 is chosen from isododecane and liquid petroleum jelly, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition comprises at least one apolar oil, which is preferably hydrocarbon-based, better still a liquid hydrocarbon.
  • apolar oil means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, 8 a , is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1 ' 2 .
  • the parameters ⁇ ⁇ , 8 h , 5 D and 8 a are expressed in (J/cm 3 ) 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • the apolar hydrocarbon-based oil is free of oxygen atoms.
  • the apolar oil is a liquid hydrocarbon.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oil with a dielectric constant £ of greater than or equal to 2.5.
  • the oil with a polarity £ of greater than or equal to 2.5 is chosen from:
  • ester oils chosen from triglycerides of plant or synthetic origin; preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol ® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil; and
  • liquid ester oils other than triglycerides for instance liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols;
  • liquid ethers preferably comprising from 12 to 60 carbon atoms in total, preferably of formula [C n H 2n +i]20 with n being an integer between 6 and 30 inclusive, for instance distearyl ether;
  • the oil with a polarity £ of greater than or equal to 2.5 is chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols preferably comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably of formula C n H 2n +iOH with n being an integer between 6 and 30 inclusive.
  • the oil with a polarity £ of greater than or equal to 2.5 is chosen from:
  • n an integer between 6 and 20 inclusive, preferably chosen from oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof;
  • n H 2n+ OH with n being an integer between 20 and 30 inclusive, which is optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4), preferably chosen from benzyl alcohol (1 -docosanol), arachidonyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol (1 -eicosanol), erucyl alcohol (cis-13-docosen-1 -ol), n-heneicosanyl alcohol (C21 sat), tricosanyl alcohol (C23sat), lignoceryl alcohol (1 -tetracosanol) (C24sat), pentacosanyl alcohol (C25sat), ceryl alcohol (1 -hexacosanol) (C26 sat lin), montanyl alcohol (1 -octacosanol) (C28sat lin), n-nonacosanyl alcohol (C29sat) and n- tri
  • liquid ethers preferably comprising from 12 to 60 carbon atoms in total, preferably of formula [C n H 2n +i]20 with n being an integer between 6 and 30 inclusive, for instance distearyl ether;
  • the oil with a polarity £ of greater than or equal to 2.5 is chosen from:
  • liquid fatty alcohols preferably comprising from 6 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably of formula C n H 2n+ iOH with n being an integer between 6 and 20 inclusive; preferably chosen from oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and octyldodecanol; and mixtures thereof.
  • liquid ethers preferably comprising from 12 to 60 carbon atoms in total, preferably of formula [C n H 2n +i]20 with n being an integer between 6 and 30 inclusive, for instance distearyl ether.
  • the oil with a polarity £ of greater than or equal to 2.5 is chosen from oleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, ricinoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol and octyldodecanol; and mixtures thereof.
  • the oil with a polarity £ of greater than or equal to 2.5 is chosen from octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the oil is chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated liquid ethers preferably comprising from 12 to 60 carbon atoms in total, preferably of formula [C n H 2n +i]20 with n being an integer between 6 and 30 inclusive, in particular distearyl ether.
  • the oil(s) are chosen from liquid hydrocarbons, in particular liquid petroleum jelly, isododecane, or from fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol or isostearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof, or alternatively from fatty ethers, such as distearyl ether.
  • ester oils means an oil comprising at least one ester function.
  • said ester oil is chosen from:
  • ⁇ triglyceride oils of plant or synthetic origin preferably chosen from liquid fatty acid triglycerides comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides, or alternatively, for example, sunflower oil, corn oil, soybean oil, pumpkin oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, hazelnut oil, apricot oil, macadamia oil, arara oil, castor oil, avocado oil, caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, for instance those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol ® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil and shea butter oil.
  • esters are preferably liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched Ci-C 2 6 aliphatic monoacids or polyacids and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C C 2 6 aliphatic monoalcohols or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.
  • At least one from among the alcohol and the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.
  • ethyl palmitate isopropyl palmitate
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl myristate or ethyl myristate
  • isocetyl stearate 2-ethylhexyl isononanoate
  • isodecyl neopentanoate isostearyl neopentanoate.
  • Esters of C4-C22 dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and esters of monocarboxylic, dicarboxylic or tricarboxylic acids and of non-sugar C 4 - C 2 6 dihydroxy, trihydroxy, tetrahydroxy or pentahydroxy alcohols may also be used.
  • esters mentioned above it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate or cetyl octanoate.
  • alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl or 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glycol dicap
  • composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C 6 -C 3 o and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids.
  • sugar esters means oxygen-bearing hydrocarbon-based compounds containing several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which comprise at least 4 carbon atoms.
  • sugars may be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • suitable sugars include sucrose, glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose and lactose, and derivatives thereof, especially alkyl derivatives, such as methyl derivatives, for instance methylglucose.
  • the sugar and fatty acid esters may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters described previously and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 6 -C 3 o and preferably C12-C22 fatty acids. If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three conjugated or unconjugated carbon-carbon double bonds.
  • esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.
  • esters may be, for example, oleates, laurates, palmitates, myristates, behenates, cocoates, stearates, linoleates, linolenates, caprates or arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as, especially, oleopalmitate, oleostearate or palmitostearate mixed esters.
  • monoesters and diesters and especially of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose mono- or dioleates, stearates, behenates, oleopalmitates, linoleates, linolenates or oleostearates.
  • the composition according to the invention does not comprise any carbonyl-based oil, i.e. any oil comprising at least one carbonyl function.
  • the composition according to the invention does not comprise any ester oil (i.e. oil comprising at least one ester function) or any oil comprising at least one acid function.
  • the oil with a polarity £ of greater than or equal to 2.5 is chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated liquid fatty alcohols.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise a mixture of at least one oil with a polarity £ of less than 2.5 and of at least one oil with a polarity £ of greater than or equal to 2.5.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight of oil with a polarity £ of less than 2.5 relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least 1 % by weight of oil with a polarity £ of greater than 2.5.
  • the composition according to the invention may advantageously be free of oil with a polarity £ of greater than or equal to 2.5.
  • this composition comprises at least one oil.
  • this oil is a hydrocarbon-based oil, which is preferably non- carbonyl-based.
  • composition A the preferences described previously for the oils present in composition A according to the invention are also valid for composition B when it exists.
  • Composition (B) may or may not comprise one of the two types of oil or a mixture thereof. If it contains oils, the total content thereof may range from 0.5% to 40% of the weight of composition (B), preferably from 5% to 40% of the composition. According to a first embodiment, the composition A comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably with a polarity £ of less than 2.5.
  • volatile oil means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the volatile organic solvent(s) and volatile oils of the invention are volatile organic solvents and cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature, with a non-zero vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 "3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • the apolar volatile oil is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid hydrocarbons containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid hydrocarbons containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 14 carbon atoms.
  • it is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon-based oils with a flash point of less than or equal to 80°C (the flash point is in particular measured according to ISO Standard 3679), such as liquid hydrocarbons containing from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and especially:
  • C 8 -Ci 4 alkanes for instance C 8 -Ci 4 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and, for example, the oils sold under the trade name Isopar or Permethyl, linear alkanes, for instance n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the respective references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97, and also mixtures thereof, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C1 1 ) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of patent application WO 2008/155 059 from the company Cognis, and mixtures thereof.
  • isoparaffins also known as isoparaffins
  • isododecane also known as 2,2,4,4,
  • the volatile oil is isododecane.
  • the composition comprises at least one nonvolatile oil, preferably with a polarity £ of less than 2.5.
  • the non-volatile oil is liquid petroleum jelly.
  • the oils are advantageously chosen from C 6 -Ci 6 hydrocarbons, hydrocarbons containing more than 16 carbon atoms, triglycerides, fatty alcohols, esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, and ether oils such as distearyl ether, or mixtures thereof.
  • the oil is chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, C 6 -Ci 6 alkanes, polydecenes, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols and ether oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • oil is chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, C 6 -Ci 6 alkanes and polydecenes.
  • the oil is chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, C 6 -Ci 6 alkanes, polydecenes, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or of fatty alcohols, liquid fatty alcohols and liquid ethers, or mixtures thereof.
  • the oil is chosen from liquid petroleum jelly and C 6 -Ci 6 alkanes, and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention has a total content of oil(s) with a polarity £ of less than 2.5, preferably chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, C 6 -Ci 6 alkanes and polydecenes, or mixtures thereof, ranging from 5% to 70% by weight, preferably from 10% to 40% by weight and even more advantageously from 15% to 35% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • these preferences concerning the content and nature of the oils are also preferred, in the case of a ready-to-use composition comprising a mixture of a composition A and of a composition B.
  • composition according to the invention uses one or more surfactants.
  • the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, cationic or nonionic surfactants, and preferentially nonionic surfactants.
  • anionic surfactant means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups.
  • the surfactant(s) are chosen from anionic surfactants.
  • the anionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylamide sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acyl isothionates and N-acyl taurates; salts of alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl
  • These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
  • the salts of C 6 -C 24 alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids may be chosen from C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside- tartrates and C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.
  • anionic surfactant(s) When the anionic surfactant(s) are in salt form, they may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.
  • alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohol salts or alkaline-earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.
  • amino alcohol salts examples include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2-amino-2- methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.
  • Alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are preferably used.
  • anionic surfactants use is preferably made of (C 6 - C 24 )alkyl sulfates, (C 6 -C 24 )alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline- earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
  • (Ci 2 -C 20 )alkyl sulfates In particular, it is preferred to use (Ci 2 -C 20 )alkyl sulfates, (Ci 2 -C 20 )alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.
  • sodium lauryl ether sulfate containing 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide Preferably, the anionic surfactant(s) are chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates and mixtures thereof; and mixtures thereof.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), which are preferably non-silicone, which can be used in the present invention may especially be derivatives of optionally quaternized aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines, in which derivatives the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group, for instance a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.
  • R a represents a Ci 0 -C 3 o alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R a - COOH preferably present in hydrolysed copra oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;
  • ⁇ R b represents a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group
  • ⁇ R c represents a carboxymethyl group
  • ⁇ M + represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine, and
  • ⁇ B represents the group -CH 2 -CH 2 -0-X'
  • ⁇ X' represents the group -CH 2 -C(0)OH, -CH 2 -C(0)OZ', -CH 2 -CH 2 -C(0)OH or -CH 2 -CH 2 -C(0)OZ', or a hydrogen atom;
  • ⁇ ' represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ', -CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 H or the group -CH 2 -CH(OH)-S0 3 -Z';
  • Z' represents a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline- earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;
  • R a ' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R a -C(0)OH preferably present in copra oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially of Ci 7 and its iso form, or an unsaturated Ci 7 group.
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol ® C2M Concentrate.
  • amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above use is preferably made of (C 8 -C 2 o)alkylbetaines such as cocoylbetaine, and (C 8 - C2o)alkylamido(C 3 -C 8 )alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) are chosen from cocamidopropylbetaine and cocoylbetaine.
  • the cationic surfactant(s) that may be used in the composition according to the invention comprise, for example, optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.
  • quaternary ammonium salts examples include:
  • the groups R 8 to Rn which may be identical or different, each represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R 8 to Rn comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
  • the aliphatic groups may comprise heteroatoms such as, in particular, oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.
  • the aliphatic groups are chosen, for example, from d-C 3 o alkyl, OC 30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C 2 -C 6 )alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci 2 -C22)alkylamido(C2-C 6 )alkyl, (C12- C 2 2)alkyl acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups,
  • X " is an anionic counterion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (CrC 4 )alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates.
  • quaternary ammonium salts of formula (I) preference is given firstly to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for instance dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, or else, secondly, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, or else, lastly, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride
  • R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives
  • R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a CrC 4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms
  • Ri 4 represents a Ci-C 4 alkyl group
  • R15 represents a hydrogen atom or a CrC 4 alkyl group
  • X " represents an anionic counterion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (CrC 4 )alkyl sulfates, and (CrC 4 )alkyl- or (Ci-C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates.
  • R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, Ri 4 denotes a methyl group and Ri 5 denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;
  • Ri 6 denotes an alkyl group containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms;
  • R17 is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH 2 )3-N + (R 16 a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a);
  • R16a, Ri7a, Risa, Ri8, Ri9, R20 and R 2 i which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
  • X " represents an anionic counterion chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (CrC 4 )alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (d- C 4 )alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sul
  • R 2 2 is chosen from CrC 6 alkyl groups and CrC 6 hydroxyalkyl or CrC 6 dihydroxyalkyl groups;
  • ⁇ R 2 3 is chosen from:
  • ⁇ R25 is chosen from:
  • Ci-C 6 hydrocarbon- based groups R 2 g
  • R 2 4, R26 and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups,
  • ⁇ r, s and t which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6,
  • ⁇ y is an integer ranging from 1 to 10,
  • ⁇ x and z which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10,
  • ⁇ X " represents an organic or mineral anionic counterion
  • the alkyl groups R 22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.
  • R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.
  • the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10.
  • R 23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 27 , it may be long and contain from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and contain from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R 29 , it preferably contains 1 to 3 carbon atoms.
  • R 24 , R 26 and R 28 which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C 2 i hydrocarbon- based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cn-C 2 i alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • x and z which may be identical or different, have the value 0 or 1.
  • y is equal to 1 .
  • r, s and t which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.
  • the anionic counterion X " is preferably a halide, preferably such as chloride, bromide or iodide; a (CrC 4 )alkyl sulfate or a (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (d- C 4 )alkylarylsulfonate.
  • a halide preferably such as chloride, bromide or iodide
  • a (CrC 4 )alkyl sulfate or a (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (d- C 4 )alkylarylsulfonate preferably a halide, preferably such as chloride, bromide or iodide
  • a (CrC 4 )alkyl sulfate or a (Ci-C 4 )alkyl- or (d- C 4 )alkylarylsulfonate preferably a halide, preferably such as chloride, bromide or
  • R 2 2 denotes a methyl or ethyl group
  • - R23 is chosen from:
  • - R25 is chosen from:
  • R 2 4, R26 and R 2 e which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon- based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups.
  • the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.
  • examples that may be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxyethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof.
  • the acyl groups preferably contain 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are obtained more particularly from a plant oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound comprises several acyl groups, the latter can be identical or different.
  • This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin.
  • Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.
  • composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a weight majority of diester salts.
  • ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.
  • Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride sold by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 .
  • ammonium salts comprising at least one ester functional group comprise two ester functional groups.
  • cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethyl- hydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.
  • nonionic surfactants examples include but are not limited to, in the Handbook of Surfactants by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp. 1 16-178.
  • nonionic surfactants examples include the following nonionic surfactants:
  • the oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.
  • the number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide preferably ranges from 1 to 250, more particularly from 2 to 100 and better still from 2 to 50; the number of moles of glycerol ranges especially from 1 to 50 and better still from 1 to 10.
  • nonionic surfactants according to the invention do not comprise any oxypropylene units.
  • glycerolated nonionic surfactants use is preferably made of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols, comprising from 1 to 50 mol of glycerol and preferably from 1 to 10 mol of glycerol.
  • lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1 .5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (I NCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (I NCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.
  • glycerolated alcohols it is more particularly preferred to use the C 8 /Cio alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, the C1 0 /C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and the C12 alcohol containing 1 .5 mol of glycerol.
  • the nonionic surfactant(s) according to the invention are preferentially chosen from:
  • - oxyethylenated C 8 -C 40 alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50 and more particularly from 2 to 40 mol of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains; - (C 6 -C 3 o)alkyl(poly)glucosides, which are optionally oxyalkylenated (0 to 10 OE) and comprising 1 to 15 glucose units;
  • nonionic surfactant(s) according to the invention are chosen from:
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one anionic surfactant and at least one nonionic surfactant.
  • the nonionic surfactant is chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 -C 40 alcohols, comprising from 1 to 10 oxyethylene (OE) and (C 6 -C 3 o) alkyl(poly)glucosides, and mixtures thereof.
  • OE oxyethylene
  • C 6 -C 3 o alkyl(poly)glucosides
  • the anionic surfactant is chosen from alkyl sulfates and alkyl ether sulfates, and mixtures thereof.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-ionic surfactant and at least one anionic surfactant.
  • the total content of surfactant(s) preferably ranges from 0.1 % to 50% by weight, even better still from 1 % to 30% by weight and better still from 5% to 19% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition under consideration.
  • the microemulsion according to the invention has the advantage of comprising a limited content of emulsifiers, and especially of surfactants, while at the same time remaining stable.
  • this is especially facilitated when the composition according to the invention comprises at least one liquid organic compound with a Hansen solubility parameter ⁇ of greater than 0 and less than 16 MPa 1 ⁇ 2 .
  • Such a composition thus has the advantage of limiting the abovementioned drawbacks associated with a very high concentration of emulsifiers.
  • composition according to the invention comprises water.
  • composition according to the invention comprises a total content of water of between 5% and 90% by weight, more particularly from 10% to 80% by weight and better still from 20% to 70% by weight, relative to the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises:
  • the composition comprises at least one liquid organic compound with a Hansen solubility parameter value ⁇ of greater than 0 and less than 16 MPa 1/2 , then this or these compound(s) are present in a total content of between 1 % and 35% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises:
  • the composition comprises at least one liquid organic compound with a Hansen solubility parameter value ⁇ of greater than 0 and less than 16 MPa 1/2 , then this or these compound(s) are present in a total content of between 3% and 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention comprises:
  • the composition comprises at least one liquid organic compound with a Hansen solubility parameter value ⁇ of greater than 0 and less than 16 MPa 1/2 , then this or these compound(s) are present in a total content of between 5% and 25% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • Liquid organic compounds with a Hansen solubility parameter 5H of greater than 0 and less than 16 MPa 1/2 may comprise at least one liquid organic compound with a Hansen solubility parameter ⁇ of greater than 0 and less than 16 MPa 1/2 .
  • a compound is different from the oils described previously, and also from the surfactants described previously.
  • Such a compound is also known as a hydrotropic compound.
  • hydrotropic compound means a compound that is capable of increasing the solubility of hydrophobic compounds in aqueous phases.
  • Said liquid compounds more preferentially have a Hansen solubility parameter ⁇ of between 5 and 15.8 MPa 1/2 , even more preferentially between 8 and 15.8 MPa 1/2 and better still between 8 and and 15 MPa 1/2 .
  • These compounds are liquid at a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg; i.e. 1 .013 ⁇ 10 5 Pa).
  • the compound(s) with a Hansen solubility parameter value ⁇ as defined previously are, for example, described in the reference publication Hansen solubility parameters: A User's Handbook by Charles M. Hansen, CRC Press, 2000, pages 167 to 185, or in the publication Handbook of Solubility Parameters and Other Cohesion Parameters, CRC Press, pages 95 to 121 and pages 177 to 185.
  • This solubility parameter value ⁇ is associated with the formation of hydrogen bonds. It may be recalled that there are three major types of interaction in organic compounds: non-polar interactions, permanent dipole-dipole interactions and interactions of hydrogen bonding type, the latter forming the subject of the parameter defining the hydrotropic compound present in the composition used in accordance with the invention.
  • V is the volume of the molecule.
  • solubility parameter value ⁇ is usually given for a temperature of 25°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 1.013 x 10 5 Pa).
  • liquid organic compounds with a Hansen solubility parameter value ⁇ of greater than 0 and less than 16 MPa 1/2 are nonionic compounds.
  • Said liquid organic compound(s) with a Hansen solubility parameter value ⁇ of greater than 0 and less than 16 MPa 1/2 may be chosen from:
  • alcohol ethers in particular Ci-C 4 ethers of C 5 -C 3 o alcohols, which are preferably saturated, linear or branched, optionally interrupted with one or more non-adjacent ether functions;
  • aromatic ethers in particular of C 6 -Ci 0 , of a Ci-C 6 alkyl optionally bearing a hydroxyl group,
  • alkanols bearing an aryl substituent preferably for which the aryl part is C 6 - Cio, advantageously C 6 , and the alkyl part of the alkanol is d- C 4 , this alkyl part possibly ending or being interrupted with a heteroatom, advantageously oxygen or a hydroxyl group, preferably such as benzyl alcohol;
  • R' represents a hydrogen, a linear or branched CrC 8 alkyl, a linear or branched C C 4 hydroxyalkyl, n being equal to 1 , 2 or 3, and preferably R' represents a hydrogen, a linear or branched CrC 6 alkyl or a linear or branched CrC 2 hydroxyalkyl.
  • lactones that may be mentioned is ⁇ - butyrolactone.
  • liquid alkanols for instance 1 -pentanol.
  • said liquid organic compound(s) with a Hansen solubility parameter value ⁇ of greater than 0 and less than 16 MPa 1/2 are chosen from alcohol ethers, aliphatic esters, aromatic ethers and alkanols bearing aryl substituents, and mixtures thereof.
  • said liquid organic compound(s) according to the invention are chosen from dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, dipropylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether (the I NCI name of which is PPG-2 butyl ether), tripropylene glycol methyl ether, propylene glycol n-butyl ether, propylene glycol n-propyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether and monoethyl ether, 3-phenyl-1 - propanol, 2-phenyl-1 -propanol, benzyl alcohol, benzyloxyethanol and phenoxyethanol, and mixtures of these compounds.
  • liquid organic compound(s) with a Hansen solubility parameter value ⁇ of greater than 0 and less than 16 MPa 1/2 are even more preferentially chosen from alkanols bearing aryl substituents and even more preferentially benzyl alcohol.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid organic compound(s) with a Hansen solubility parameter value ⁇ of greater than 0 and less than 16 MPa 1/2 .
  • the total content by weight of liquid organic compound(s) with a Hansen solubility parameter ⁇ of greater than 0 and less than 16 MPa 1/2 may range from 0.5% to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the compostion according to the invention.
  • the liquid organic compound(s) with a Hansen solubility parameter value ⁇ of greater than 0 and less than 16 MPa 1/2 preferably represent from 1 % to 35% by weight, more particularly from 3% to 30% by weight and better still 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • these preferences concerning the content and nature of the liquid organic compound(s) with a Hansen solubility parameter value ⁇ of greater than 0 and less than 16 MPa 1/2 are also preferred, in the case of a ready-to-use composition comprising a mixture of a composition A and of a composition B preferably comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional organic solvents other than oils and liquid organic compounds with a Hansen solubility parameter value ⁇ of greater than 0 and less than 16 MPa 1/2 .
  • organic solvents examples include linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and propanol; glycerol; short-chain polyols such as propylene glycol and dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the additional solvent(s), if they are present, represent a content usually ranging from 1 % to 40% by weight and preferably from 5% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the ready-to-use composition according to the invention mixture of composition (A) and of a composition (B) also comprises water.
  • These compositions optionally comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% by weight of water, relative to the weight of this composition.
  • the ready-to-use composition if it is different from the composition according to the invention, comprises at least 5% by weight of water, relative to the weight of this composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least 10% by weight of water and even more advantageously at least 20% by weight of water, relative to the weight of this composition.
  • composition (A) and composition (B) (when it exists), and/or the ready-to-use oxidation dye composition (mixture of compositions A and B) contain water in a content ranging from 10% to 70%, better still from 20% to 55% of the total weight of the composition, relative to the total weight of each composition.
  • compositions A and/or B, and/or the mixture of compositions A and B are all in the form of a microemulsion.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise one or more basifying agents.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye, it also comprises at least one basifying agent.
  • the basifying agent(s) may be mineral or organic or hybrid.
  • the mineral basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, or mixtures thereof.
  • the organic basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from organic amines with a pK b at 25°C of less than 12, preferably less than 10 and even more advantageously less than 6. It should be noted that it concerns the pK b corresponding to the functional group having the highest basicity.
  • the organic amines do not comprise any alkyl or alkenyl fatty chain comprising more than ten carbon atoms.
  • the organic basifying agent(s) are chosen, for example, from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and the compounds of formula (I) below:
  • W is a divalent CrC 6 alkylene radical optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl groups or a CrC 6 alkyl radical, and/or optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms such as O, or NR U ;
  • R x , R y , R z , R t and R u which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a Ci-C 6 alkyl, Ci-C 6 hydroxyalkyl or Ci-C 6 aminoalkyl radical.
  • amines of formula (I) examples include 1 ,3- diaminopropane, 1 ,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine and spermidine.
  • alkanolamine means an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more linear or branched CrC 8 alkyl groups bearing one or more hydroxyl radicals.
  • Organic amines chosen from alkanolamines such as monoalkanolamines, dialkanolamines or trialkanolamines comprising one to three identical or different d- C 4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are in particular suitable for performing the invention.
  • MAA monoethanolamine
  • diethanolamine triethanolamine
  • monoisopropanolamine diisopropanolamine
  • N-dimethylaminoethanolamine 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol
  • triisopropanolamine 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol
  • 3-amino-1 ,2-propanediol 3- dimethylamino-1 ,2-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethylamino)methane.
  • amino acids that can be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from carboxylic acid, sulfonic acid, phosphonic acid or phosphoric acid functions.
  • the amino acids may be in neutral or ionic form.
  • amino acids that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.
  • the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function.
  • Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to formula (II) below, and also the salts thereof:
  • R represents a group chosen from: ; -(CH 2 ) 3 NH 2 ;
  • the compounds corresponding to formula (II) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine and citrulline.
  • the organic amine may also be chosen from organic amines of heterocyclic type. Besides histidine that has already been mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole.
  • the organic amine may also be chosen from amino acid dipeptides.
  • amino acid dipeptides that may be used in the present invention, mention may be made in particular of carnosine, anserine and balenine.
  • the organic amine may also be chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function.
  • amines of this type that may be used in the present invention, besides arginine, which has already been mentioned as an amino acid, mention may be made especially of creatine, creatinine, 1 ,1 -dimethylguanidine, 1 ,1 - diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, N-amidinoalanine, 3- guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2- ([amino(imino)methyl]amino)ethane-1 -sulfonic acid.
  • Hybrid compounds that may be mentioned include the salts of the amines mentioned previously with acids such as carbonic acid or hydrochloric acid.
  • Guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride may be used in particular.
  • the mineral basifying agent(s) are preferably chosen from ammonia, alkali metal carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates and sodium or potassium bicarbonates, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, and alkanolamines, or mixtures thereof.
  • the organic basifying agent(s) present in the composition of the invention are chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids in neutral or ionic form, in particular basic amino acids, and preferably corresponding to those of formula (II). Even more preferentially, the organic basifying agent(s) are chosen from monoethanolamine (MEA) and basic amino acids in neutral or ionic form. Better still, the organic basifying agent(s) are chosen from alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine.
  • the composition according to the invention has a content of basifying agent(s) ranging from 0.01 % to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.1 % to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.
  • the basifying agent is ammonia or a salt thereof.
  • composition according to the invention or the process according to the invention does not use ammonia, or a salt thereof, as basifying agent.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises a mixture of basifying agents.
  • the basifying agent is chosen from alkanolamines, preferably monoethanolamine. Oxidation dyes
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one oxidation dye.
  • oxidation dye also referred to as an “oxidation dye precursor” means a species that is capable of generating a coloured molecule via a process of oxidative condensation with itself or with one or more other compounds.
  • the oxidation dye precursors are chosen from oxidation bases and couplers, and mixtures thereof.
  • the oxidation dyes comprise an oxidation base or a mixture.
  • the oxidation bases may be chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and the addition salts thereof.
  • the couplers that are conventionally used for the dyeing of keratin fibres may be chosen from the meta- phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also the addition salts thereof.
  • the oxidation dye is preferably chosen from oxidation bases such as para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and the addition salts thereof, and couplers, chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta- aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also the addition salts thereof; and mixtures thereof.
  • oxidation bases such as para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases, and the addition salts thereof
  • couplers chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta- aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based couplers and heterocyclic couplers, and also the addition salts thereof; and mixtures thereof.
  • the oxidation dye(s) when they are present, are present in a total amount ranging from 0.001 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the dye composition.
  • composition according to the invention is free of chemical oxidizing agent.
  • the dyeing process according to the invention may envisage the use of a second composition (B) preferably comprising one or more oxidizing agents, preferably one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
  • chemical oxidizing agent means an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen.
  • the oxidizing agent(s) are chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts, for instance alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal persulfates, perborates and percarbonates, and also peracids and precursors thereof.
  • the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide.
  • the content of oxidizing agent(s) more particularly represents from 0.1 % to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 20% by weight and better still from 1 % to 15% by weight relative to the weight of composition B.
  • the oxidizing agent is added to the composition at the time of use and is provided, for example, by an oxidizing composition B.
  • the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide, the concentration of which ranges, more particularly, from 0.1 % to 50% by weight, more particularly between 0.5% and 20% by weight and even more preferentially between 1 % and 15% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition.
  • composition of the invention does not contain any peroxygenated salts.
  • composition A according to the invention is advantageously between 2 and 13, preferably between 2 and 12.
  • the basifying agents are, for example, those described previously.
  • acidifying agents examples that may be mentioned include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid or orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids such as tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, or sulfonic acids.
  • the pH of composition A according to the invention is acidic, preferably ranging from 2 to 7, preferably from 2 to 6.5.
  • the pH of composition A according to the invention is basic, preferably from 9.5 to 12.
  • composition according to the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing the hair, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestrants; fragrances; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preserving agents; opacifiers.
  • adjuvants conventionally used in compositions for dyeing the hair such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestrants; fragrances; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides; preserving agents; opacifiers.
  • the above adjuvants are generally present in an amount, for each of them, of between 0.01 % and 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may be in various forms, in particular in the form of a liquid, a cream or a gel.
  • PROCESS A subject of the invention is also a process for direct dyeing of keratin fibres using a composition according to the invention as defined above.
  • the dyeing process according to the invention thus consists in applying a composition according to the invention to wet or dry keratin fibres.
  • the invention relates to a dyeing process, comprising a first step of mixing a composition A according to the invention and a composition B, preferably comprising an oxidizing agent, followed by a step of applying to wet or dry human keratin fibres, the mixture of the two compositions (A) and (B) being prepared just before use, particularly between 1 second and 15 minutes before use, preferentially 5 minutes before use.
  • the process is a process for dyeing keratin fibres using the mixture of parts (A) and (B) as defined previously.
  • composition resulting from the mixing of composition (A) and composition (B) is also in the form of a microemulsion.
  • compositions (A) and (B) are in the form of microemulsions, and the composition resulting from the mixing of composition (A) and composition (B) is also in the form of a microemulsion.
  • composition (A) is a bicontinuous microemulsion.
  • compositions (A) and (B) are preferably mixed together in a weight ratio (A)/(B) ranging from 0.2 to 10 and better still from 0.5 to 2.
  • Composition A or the composition derived from the mixing of (A) and (B) may be applied to wet or dry keratin fibres.
  • composition (A) according to the invention or the composition derived from the mixing of (A) and (B) is then left in place for a time usually ranging from one minute to one hour and preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes.
  • the temperature during the process is conventionally between room temperature (between 15 and 25°C) and 80°C and preferably between room temperature and 60°C.
  • the human keratin fibres are optionally rinsed with water. They may optionally be washed with a shampoo, followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left to dry.
  • the ready-to-use composition resulting from the mixing of compositions (A) and (B) is in the form of a microemulsion.
  • the pH of the composition after mixing compositions (A) and (B) of the process according to the invention is advantageously between 3 and 13, preferably between 5 and 1 1 and preferentially between 7 and 1 1 , limits inclusive.
  • the alkaline agents are, for example, those described previously.
  • acidifying agents examples include mineral or organic acids, for instance hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, carboxylic acids, for instance tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, or sulfonic acids.
  • composition (A) according to the invention or of the abovementioned compositions (A) and (B) and the contents thereof are determined as a function of the characteristics detailed previously for the composition derived from the final mixture of (A) and (B) according to the invention.
  • Composition (A) according to the invention is in the form of a microemulsion.
  • the composition according to the invention is transparent.
  • Composition (A) according to the invention is obtained by mixing using a magnetic bar.
  • the ready-to-use composition is also preferably in the form of a microemulsion.
  • composition (B) intended to be mixed with composition A just before use is preferably also in the form of a microemulsion.
  • Composition B if it is also in the form of a microemulsion, is also prepared by mixing using a magnetic bar.
  • the microemulsions obtained are also stable (i.e. they remain homogeneous for at least 2 months at 45°C).
  • the mixture of (A) and (B) is prepared by placing composition (A) and composition (B) together in a container and mixing them, preferentially vigorously, for a few seconds to a few minutes, before application to the keratin fibres.
  • This mixing may be performed using a multi-compartment device or kit as defined below, one of the compartments of which is devoted to the mixing of compositions (A) and (B) and may be shaken in a closed vessel entirely safely, until a homogeneous emulsion is obtained.
  • the invention also relates to a device containing two or more compartments, comprising:
  • composition (A) as defined previously,
  • Example 1 Direct dye compositions comprising a synthetic direct dye
  • compositions comprising a synthetic direct dye were prepared.
  • a composition D according to the invention which is in the form of a microemulsion
  • a comparative composition A outside the invention which is not in the form of a microemulsion
  • compositions were prepared:
  • the colouring microemulsion C1 forms virtually spontaneously, by simple homogenization with a magnetic bar, and is in the form of a transparent, stable, homogeneous microemulsion.
  • Comparative composition C2 was also mixed with a magnetic bar. It is not in the form of a microemulsion. It is homogeneous and opaque and separates on settling over time. Dyeing process
  • composition C1 according to the invention which is in the form of a microemulsion, in particular better than those obtained with the comparative composition which is not in the form of a microemulsion (composition C2); as attested by the dE * ab build-up values.
  • Example 2 Direct dyeing comprising a natural direct dye
  • the direct dye composition C3 below according to the invention comprising a natural direct dye, was prepared. This composition is in microemulsion form and forms a homogeneous, transparent composition.
  • the direct dye composition C3 is as follows:
  • microemulsion C3 forms virtually spontaneously, by simple homogenization with a magnetic bar, and is in the form of a transparent, stable, homogeneous
  • composition C3 according to the invention are intensely dyed violet.

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition (A) pour la coloration de fibres kératiniques, telles que les cheveux, se présentant sous la forme d'une microémulsion comprenant : i) au moins de l'eau; ii) au moins une huile; iii) au moins un tensioactif; et iv) au moins un colorant direct, ladite composition étant exempte d'agent oxydant chimique. La présente invention concerne également un procédé de coloration de fibres kératiniques, comprenant l'application d'une composition A, ladite application étant éventuellement précédée d'un mélange avec une composition B, ainsi qu'un dispositif à plusieurs compartiments et une composition prête à l'emploi résultant du mélange des compositions (A) et (B). La composition selon l'invention permet de colorer des fibres kératiniques de manière intense, efficace et homogène tout en étant stable et facile à appliquer.
PCT/EP2015/080190 2014-12-18 2015-12-17 Composition pour la coloration directe de fibres kératiniques, sous la forme d'une microémulsion à base d'eau, d'huile(s) et de tensioactif(s) WO2016097123A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR1462791 2014-12-18
FR1462791A FR3030245B1 (fr) 2014-12-18 2014-12-18 Composition de coloration directe de fibres keratiniques sous forme de microemulsion a base d'eau, d'huile(s) et de tensioactif(s).

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2016097123A1 true WO2016097123A1 (fr) 2016-06-23

Family

ID=52684440

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/EP2015/080190 WO2016097123A1 (fr) 2014-12-18 2015-12-17 Composition pour la coloration directe de fibres kératiniques, sous la forme d'une microémulsion à base d'eau, d'huile(s) et de tensioactif(s)

Country Status (2)

Country Link
FR (1) FR3030245B1 (fr)
WO (1) WO2016097123A1 (fr)

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2022068473A1 (fr) * 2020-09-30 2022-04-07 L'oreal Composition pour le conditionnement et/ou la teinture de fibres de kératine

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001045649A1 (fr) * 1999-12-22 2001-06-28 Revlon Consumer Products Corporation Compositions de peroxyde sous forme de microemulsion a phase continue huileuse destinees a etre utilisees dans des teintures oxydantes pour les cheveux et procedes correspondants
FR2983072A1 (fr) * 2011-11-29 2013-05-31 Oreal Composition de coloration mettant en oeuvre un compose hydrotrope non ionique particulier en milieu riche en corps gras, procedes et dispositif
FR3002440A1 (fr) * 2013-02-28 2014-08-29 Oreal Composition cosmetique sous forme d'une nanoemulsion huile-dans-eau destinee a la coloration directe des fibres keratiniques
FR3004942A1 (fr) * 2013-04-26 2014-10-31 Oreal Procede de coloration capillaire mettant en œuvre de du henne puis de l'indigo et une huile et/ou un beurre

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2001045649A1 (fr) * 1999-12-22 2001-06-28 Revlon Consumer Products Corporation Compositions de peroxyde sous forme de microemulsion a phase continue huileuse destinees a etre utilisees dans des teintures oxydantes pour les cheveux et procedes correspondants
FR2983072A1 (fr) * 2011-11-29 2013-05-31 Oreal Composition de coloration mettant en oeuvre un compose hydrotrope non ionique particulier en milieu riche en corps gras, procedes et dispositif
FR3002440A1 (fr) * 2013-02-28 2014-08-29 Oreal Composition cosmetique sous forme d'une nanoemulsion huile-dans-eau destinee a la coloration directe des fibres keratiniques
FR3004942A1 (fr) * 2013-04-26 2014-10-31 Oreal Procede de coloration capillaire mettant en œuvre de du henne puis de l'indigo et une huile et/ou un beurre

Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2022068473A1 (fr) * 2020-09-30 2022-04-07 L'oreal Composition pour le conditionnement et/ou la teinture de fibres de kératine

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
FR3030245B1 (fr) 2018-05-18
FR3030245A1 (fr) 2016-06-24

Similar Documents

Publication Publication Date Title
US9687057B2 (en) Dye composition using a specific non-ionic hydrotropic compound in a medium rich in fatty substances, methods and device
WO2013144260A2 (fr) Composition comprenant du (2,5-diaminophényl)éthanol, un agent tensioactif alkylpolyglucoside non ionique, un ester de sorbitane oxyéthyléné ou un alcool gras polyalcoxylé ou polyglycérolé dans un milieu riche en substances grasses, procédé et dispositif de teinture associés
WO2013004784A2 (fr) Composition tinctoriale comprenant un éther à longue chaîne d'un alcool gras alcoxylé et un polymère cationique, ainsi que procédés et dispositifs utilisant cette composition
WO2012146530A1 (fr) Composition de coloration utilisant un coupleur dérivé de méta-aminophénol dans un milieu riche en substances grasses, procédés et dispositifs
EP2830584A2 (fr) Composition comprenant du (2,5-diaminophényl)éthanol et un polymère cellulosique ou un polymère anionique carboxylique dans un milieu riche en substances grasses, procédé et dispositif de teinture
FR2988595A1 (fr) Composition comprenant le (2,5-diaminophenyl) ethanol, un tensioactif non ionique alkylpolyglucoside dans un milieu riche en corps gras, procede de coloration et dispositif
RU2666399C2 (ru) Окрашивающая композиция, содержащая алкоксилированный эфир жирного спирта и жирный спирт
FR2988598A1 (fr) Composition comprenant le (2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol, un ester de sorbitan oxyethylene dans un milieu riche en corps gras, procede de coloration et dispositif
WO2015007915A1 (fr) Composition de colorant comprenant un tensioactif amphotère particulier et un tensioactif d'amide oxyéthyléné ou un tensioactif d'alcool gras oxyéthyléné comprenant moins de 10 unités oe, et mélange de composition de colorant comprenant un tensioactif amphotère particulier et un tensioactif d'amide oxyéthyléné
EP2701805A1 (fr) Composition de coloration utilisant un coupleur dérivé du phénol dans un milieu riche en substances grasses, procédés et dispositifs
WO2016097126A1 (fr) Composition de coloration ou d'éclaircissement de fibres kératiniques, sous la forme d'une micro-émulsion à base d'huile(s) particulière(s), de solvants hydrotropiques et de tensioactif(s)
FR2940083A1 (fr) Procede de coloration directe eclaircissante ou d'oxydation en presence d'une composition aqueuse riche en corps gras et dispositif
WO2013004787A1 (fr) Composition de colorant utilisant un éther à longue chaîne d'un alcool gras alcoxylé et de glycérol et procédés et dispositifs l'utilisant
WO2013079528A1 (fr) Composition de colorant utilisant un composé hydrotrope spécifique dans un milieu riche en substances grasses, procédés et dispositif associés
FR2954158A1 (fr) Agent de coloration et/ou de decoloration des fibres keratiniques, comprenant une emulsion directe comprenant un alcalin et une emulsion inverse comprenant un oxydant
WO2012163898A1 (fr) Composition de coloration utilisant un coupleur (hydroxy)indoline dans un milieu riche en substances grasses, procédé et dispositif
WO2016097124A1 (fr) Composition pour la coloration ou l'éclaircissement de fibres de kératine, sous la forme d'une microémulsion à base d'huile(s) et de tensioactif(s)
FR2988592A1 (fr) Composition de coloration mettant en oeuvre le (2,5-diaminophenyl)ethanol, un alcool gras aliphatique dans un milieu riche en corps gras, le procede de coloration et le dispositif
WO2016097123A1 (fr) Composition pour la coloration directe de fibres kératiniques, sous la forme d'une microémulsion à base d'eau, d'huile(s) et de tensioactif(s)
WO2015007917A1 (fr) Composition de colorant comportant un tensioactif amphotère particulier et un sulfate ou un tensioactif sulfonate
WO2014131871A2 (fr) Composition cosmétique se présentant sous la forme d'une nanoémulsion huile dans l'eau pour la coloration d'oxydation de fibres kératiniques, et procédé associé
WO2013004786A2 (fr) Composition tinctoriale comprenant un éther à longue chaîne d'un alcool gras alcoxylé et une base d'oxydation pyrazolone, ainsi que procédés et dispositifs utilisant cette composition
WO2014131872A2 (fr) Composition cosmétique se présentant sous la forme d'une nanoémulsion huile dans l'eau pour la coloration directe de fibres kératiniques
FR2940056A1 (fr) Procede de coloration directe eclaircissante ou d'oxydation en presence d'un sel d'amine organique et dispositif approprie.
WO2020260629A1 (fr) Composition comprenant de l'acide 12-hydroxystéarique, une amine organique et une substance grasse liquide

Legal Events

Date Code Title Description
121 Ep: the epo has been informed by wipo that ep was designated in this application

Ref document number: 15816441

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1

NENP Non-entry into the national phase

Ref country code: DE

122 Ep: pct application non-entry in european phase

Ref document number: 15816441

Country of ref document: EP

Kind code of ref document: A1