WO2019093254A1

WO2019093254A1 - Skin cosmetic

Info

Publication number: WO2019093254A1
Application number: PCT/JP2018/040926
Authority: WO
Inventors: 翔太水野; 昭則小野
Original assignee: 株式会社資生堂
Priority date: 2017-11-07
Filing date: 2018-11-05
Publication date: 2019-05-16
Also published as: JP7203751B2; JPWO2019093254A1; TW201922210A

Abstract

The purpose of the present invention is to provide a novel skin cosmetic that has blended therein a whitening agent, that has a hardness suitable for forming a round bloated lump when being placed on the skin, that has a gelatinous feel similar to that of jelly, and that provides an excellent sense of permeation when applied to the skin. This skin cosmetic is characterized by containing: (a) a whitening agent which is selected from tranexamic acid and ascorbic acid glucoside; (b) a polyethylene glycol in which an average polymerization degree of ethylene oxide is 4-20; (c) 0.15 mass % or more of a water-soluble polymer; (d) one or more selected from polyoxyethylene/polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18-C28) ethers and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated cater oils; and (e) water, wherein the viscosity of the skin cosmetic at 30°C is within the range of 3,000 to 10,000 mPa·s.

Description

Skin cosmetics

The present invention relates to a skin cosmetic containing a whitening agent. More specifically, the present invention relates to a skin cosmetic which has a moderate hardness enough to stand on the skin, has a feel like pully jelly, and is excellent in the permeability to the keratin when applied to the skin.

The basic functions of skin care cosmetics include cleaning and wiping, anti-drying, anti-ultraviolet rays, anti-oxidation and activation. In addition, there are skin care cosmetics with functions such as whitening, wrinkles and sagging improvement, and acne prevention. It is said that skin care cosmetics are mainly used in the order according to the so-called "beauty system". This cosmetic system is a system in which after cleansing and cleansing with a cleanser, hydration (moisturizing) with a lotion and then application in the order of a cosmetic fluid, an emulsion and a cream. In recent years, all-in-one cosmetics in which one cosmetic has the function of a plurality of cosmetics applied after the cosmetic are also marketed, and it is useful for shortening the time required for skin care.

There are also high-performance cosmetics in which a whitening component is blended in an all-in-one cosmetic, and in these cosmetics, a device for stably blending an active ingredient such as a whitening component is used. On the other hand, in skin care cosmetics, the feel and the feeling of use when applied to the skin are also important. For example, having the familiarity to the skin and the excellent penetration of the active ingredient into the skin make the cosmetic attractive.

Patent Document 1 describes a skin external preparation containing a thickener comprising a microgel containing a hydrophilic compound having a gelling ability and the like and a skin lightening agent component. The said skin external preparation is said to be stable without causing stickiness, squeakiness, excellent usability, and causing no weaning etc. even if the whitening component is highly blended.

Patent Document 2 discloses a skin external preparation containing a salt type whitening agent of ascorbic acid type / alkoxysalicylic acid type and carrageenan as a thickener, and describes that it is excellent in temporal stability and feeling in use. It is done. The gel composed of carrageenan in Patent Document 2 is a pure, relatively elastic gel and has a high yield value and is hard to flow. However, it is taught that when the shear is greater than the yield value, the gel is deformed significantly, so that when the gel spreads on the skin, the gel is smashed fresh and squeezed, resulting in good spreading and no slimming or stickiness.

Patent Document 3 discloses a skin external preparation containing a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane and a microgel mainly composed of gellan gum, and said the skin external preparation has good spread and familiarity to the skin and is not sticky. It is done. And the example of the all-in-one gel which has the above characteristics is described (Example 2).
However, there is no known skin cosmetic that has both a suitable hardness and an excellent feeling in use.

JP 2001-342125 A JP, 2005-120051, A JP, 2013-193963, A

The subject in the present invention is a novel skin cosmetic containing a skin-whitening agent, which has a suitable hardness that makes it stand on the skin and a feel like a pull-up jelly, and is superior in penetration when applied to the skin Providing skin cosmetics.

As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventors determined that a water-soluble polymer is selected from polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ether and / or polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, The present invention is completed based on the finding that when it is blended in combination with polyethylene glycol having ethylene oxide having a number average degree of polymerization, a non-conventional base having an appropriate hardness and an excellent feeling in use can be obtained. It came to

That is, the present invention
(A) a skin-whitening agent selected from tranexamic acid and ascorbic acid glucoside;
(B) polyethylene glycol having an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide of 4 to 20;
(C) 0.15% by weight or more water-soluble polymer;
(D) one or more selected from polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ether and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil;
(E) contains water,
It provides a skin cosmetic characterized in that the viscosity at 30 ° C. is in the range of 3,000 to 10,000 mPa · s.

The skin cosmetic composition of the present invention is water-based while having a moderate hardness enough to stand on the skin and has a jelly-like appearance and feel. Furthermore, it is well-suited to the skin, can provide cool coolness, and is excellent in the feeling that an active ingredient such as a skin lightening agent penetrates the skin.

(A) Skin-lightening agent selected from tranexamic acid and ascorbic acid glucoside The skin-lightening agent to be incorporated into the skin cosmetic composition of the present invention is tranexamic acid and / or ascorbic acid glucoside.
Tranexamic acid is conventionally used as a whitening agent in cosmetics and the like. Tranexamic acid in the present invention can be selected from tranexamic acid and its salt and its derivative. Examples of tranexamic acid salts include metal salts such as magnesium salts, calcium salts, sodium salts and potassium salts, and inorganic salts such as phosphates, hydrochlorides, hydrobromides and sulfates. As tranexamic acid derivatives, tranexamic acid esters (for example, vitamin A esters, vitamin E esters, vitamin C esters, vitamin esters such as vitamin D esters, phenyl esters, hydroquinone esters, gentisic acid esters, etc.), Examples thereof include tranexamic acid amide (methylamide or a salt thereof), tranexamic acid dimer and the like.

The ascorbic acid glucoside is not particularly limited as long as it is a glucoside of ascorbic acid used as a whitening agent in cosmetics and the like. For example, L-ascorbic acid glucosides such as L-ascorbic acid 2-glucoside, L-ascorbic acid diglucoside and the like can be mentioned.

The blending amount of the whitening agent (component (a)) in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but usually 0.5 to 5.0% by mass, preferably 0.55 to 4.0% by mass. More preferably, it is 0.6 to 3.0% by mass.

(B) Polyethylene Glycol Having an Average Degree of Polymerization of Ethylene Oxide of 4 to 20 The polyethylene glycol blended in the skin cosmetic composition of the present invention comprises ethylene oxide having an average degree of polymerization of 4 to 20, preferably 4 to 12. That is, the following formula (A):
H (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n OH (A)
And a polymer of ethylene oxide represented by and having an average value of n of 4 to 20, preferably 4 to 12.
Specific examples include polyethylene glycol 200 (INCI name: PEG-4), polyethylene glycol 300 (INCI name: PEG-6), polyethylene glycol 400 (INCI name: PEG-8), polyethylene glycol 600 (INCI name: PEG- 12) and polyethylene glycol 1000 (INCI name: PEG-20) and the like. If polyethylene glycol containing ethylene oxide having an average degree of polymerization of more than 20 is used in the system of the present invention, the desired hardness can be obtained, but the skin becomes unfamiliar and feels sticky.

The blending amount of polyethylene glycol (component (b)) having an average polymerization degree of ethylene oxide of 4 to 20 in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is usually 0.1 to 3% by mass, preferably 0.2 to 2.5. % By mass, more preferably 0.3 to 2% by mass.

(C) Water-soluble polymer The water-soluble polymer to be added to the skin cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is used as an aqueous thickener in cosmetics and the like. Among them, from the viewpoint of obtaining appropriate hardness in the present invention, it is preferable to use one or more selected from carboxyvinyl polymers and hydrophobically modified polyether urethanes.

The carboxyvinyl polymer (INCI name: carbomer) is an acidic polymer (crosslinked polyacrylic acid) based on an acrylic acid polymer. As commercially available products, for example, Carbopol 940, 941, 980, 981, 934, 2984, 5984 (manufactured by BF Goodrich), Hibis Wako 104, 105 (manufactured by Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd.), and the like are available. The carboxyvinyl polymer in the present invention may be alkyl-modified (eg, acrylic acid / alkyl acrylate (C10-30) copolymer, etc.).

Hydrophobically modified polyether urethane is a kind of associative thickener, and it is believed that hydrophobic portions associate in an aqueous medium to exhibit a thickening effect (see Patent Document 3). Specifically, a hydrophobic modified polyether urethane having a structure represented by the following formula (I) is preferably used.

In the above formula (I), R ₁ represents an alkyl group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and R ₂ and R ₄ each independently represent an alkylene group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms or a phenylethylene group. Preferably, it is an alkylene group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms.
R ₃ represents an alkylene group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms which may have a urethane bond.
R ₅ represents a linear, branched or secondary alkyl group having 8 to 36, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
m is a number of 2 or more. Preferably it is 2.
h is a number of 1 or more. Preferably it is 1.
k is a number of 1 to 500. Preferably it is a number of 100 to 300.
n is a number of 1 to 200. Preferably it is a number of 10 to 100.

Among the hydrophobically modified polyether urethanes represented by the above general formula, (PEG-240 / decyltetradeces-20 / HDI) copolymer (INCI name: PEG-240 / HDI COPOLYMER BIS-DECYLTETRADECETH-20 ETHER) is preferable Used. Examples of commercially available (PEG-240 / decyltetradeceth-20 / HDI) copolymer include “Adecanol GT-700” (manufactured by ADEKA Co., Ltd.).

The "moderate hardness" in the present invention is such a hardness that a proper amount can be taken with a finger when taking out the cosmetic from the container, and that it can stand on the skin in a pleasing manner. To stand up means that the cosmetic is placed in a bulging state on the skin, like water droplets on a water repellent substrate. When the appropriate hardness is defined by the viscosity of the cosmetic, the viscosity measured with a B-type viscometer at 30 ° C. is in the range of about 3,000 to about 10,000 mPa · s.

The compounding amount of the water-soluble polymer (component (c)) in the skin cosmetic composition of the present invention is such that the cosmetic composition has an appropriate hardness. That is, the water-soluble polymer (component (c)) is blended in an amount such that the viscosity of the cosmetic at 30 ° C. is in the range of about 3,000 to about 10,000 mPa · s. Therefore, the compounding amount of the water-soluble polymer may vary depending on the properties (such as molecular weight) of the water-soluble polymer. In the case of water-soluble polymers generally used in cosmetics, if the amount is less than 0.15% by mass, in many cases, the hardness will not be adequate. Therefore, the content of the water-soluble polymer is usually 0.15% by mass or more. The upper limit value of the compounding amount of the water-soluble polymer may be an amount satisfying the above-mentioned viscosity. For example, when only a carboxyvinyl polymer is blended as a water-soluble polymer, the content is preferably 0.4% by mass or less, more preferably 0.35% by mass. When only the hydrophobic modified polyether urethane is blended as the water-soluble polymer, the upper limit value is about 5% by mass, preferably about 3% by mass, and more preferably about 2.5% by mass.

(D) One or more selected from polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ether and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil (d) The component acting as an emulsifier in the system of the present invention is there.
As the polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ether, one having a structure represented by the following formula (II) is preferably used.

In the above formula, R is a linear or branched alkyl group having 18 to 28 carbon atoms, m is a number of 2 to 24, and n is a number of 10 to 38.

Among polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ethers, POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyl tetradecyl ether is particularly preferable, and its commercially available product "S-safe 1324 (D)" (NOF CORPORATION) Company company) can be used.

The polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil used in the present invention has an HLB of 10 or more, for example, PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG- 60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, and PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil are preferably used.

The blending amount of the component (d) in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is usually 0.05 to 0.5% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 0.4% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 0.3 It is mass%.

In the present invention, the water soluble polymer (c) and one or more selected from (d) polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ether and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, It is preferable to set the blending amount ratio of (1) in the range of 20: 1 to 1: 1, more preferably in the range of 15: 1 to 2: 1.

(E) Water The amount of water to be incorporated into the skin cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but it is usually 60 to 95% by mass, preferably 70 to 90% by mass.

In addition to the above-mentioned essential components (a) to (e), the skin cosmetic composition of the present invention may further contain other optional components to be blended in the skin care cosmetic composition.

For example, the moisturizing and moisturizing effect of the skin can be enhanced by blending (f) a moisturizing agent. As a moisturizer, glycerin (dynamite glycerin), 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl ether (however, except for those corresponding to the component (d)), hyaluronic acid or acetylated hyaluronic acid An acid and its salt etc. can be illustrated.

Among these humectants, glycerin, dipropylene glycol, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C1 to C3) ether (eg, polyoxyethylene (14) polyoxypropylene (7) dimethyl ether etc.), hyaluronic acid and acetylation It is preferable to combine and mix | blend 2 or more types selected from hyaluronic acid. On the other hand, when diglycerin is blended, stickiness may occur upon drying after applying a cosmetic.

By further blending the skin cosmetic of the present invention with (g) a cooling agent, it is possible to improve the feeling of coolness when applied to the skin and to give the skin a feeling of firmness.
The cooling agent to be blended is not particularly limited as long as it can be used as a cosmetic or a skin external preparation, and menthols such as l-menthol, camphors, borneols, etc. can be exemplified.

Examples of other optional components include, but are not limited to, emollients, ultraviolet light absorbers, various drugs, lower alcohols (alcohols having 6 or less carbon atoms), oils, inorganic and organic powders, and the like. However, from the viewpoint of refreshing the feel in use, it may be preferable to set the amount of oil to be 20% by mass or less, for example, 10% by mass or less or 5% by mass or less.

The skin cosmetic composition of the present invention is prepared by mixing each component and appropriately stirring and mixing while heating as necessary.

The skin cosmetic composition of the present invention contains a novel base which is aqueous but has a moderate hardness that gives rise to a plump on the skin, has a good fit when applied to the skin and does not feel sticky, and is a whitening agent or It is possible to give a feeling that the active ingredient such as a moisturizer rapidly penetrates to the keratin. Therefore, for example, it is preferable to provide as an all-in-one skin care cosmetic etc. having all the functions of conventional lotions, emulsions, masks, astringents and cosmetic solutions.

The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, but the present invention is not limited by these examples. The compounding amount is shown as% by mass based on the total amount of the composition to which the component is compounded unless otherwise stated.

Skin cosmetics were prepared according to the formulations listed in Tables 1 and 2 below. About cosmetics (sample) of each case, pH value and viscosity measurement (B-type viscometer, No. 3, 12 rpm, 30 degreeC) were performed.
In addition, the expert panel evaluated "hardness of cosmetic (sample)", "no stickiness" and "early familiarity". Evaluation criteria are as follows.

<Evaluation criteria>
"Hardness (jelly feeling)"
A: There is a moderate hardness that stands plump on the skin and a feel like a pully jelly.
B: Too hard to get out of the container.
C: It is too soft to be removed from the container and does not stand on the skin.

"No stickiness" and "speed of familiarity"
A +: extremely good A: excellent B: normal C: inferior

As is clear from the results shown in Table 1, the skin cosmetic of the present invention (Examples 1 to 3) containing polyethylene glycol having an average polymerization degree of 4 to 20 of ethylene oxide as the component (b) There was a moderate hardness and a pully jelly-like feel that could stand neatly, it was not sticky, and the skin familiarity was also fast and good. On the other hand, Comparative Example 1 in which diglycerin was blended instead of the component (b) of the present invention produced stickiness on drying of the cosmetic. In addition, Comparative Examples 2 and 3 in which polyethylene glycol having an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide of more than 20 was blended produced stickiness, and also did not conform well to the skin.

According to the results shown in Table 2, good results were obtained even when the water-soluble polymer (c) was changed from a carboxyvinyl polymer to a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane (Examples 4 to 6). On the other hand, Comparative Example 4 in which the blending amount of the (c) water-soluble polymer is less than 0.15% by mass is a soft cosmetic in which the viscosity of the cosmetic does not reach 3,000 mPa · s. As a result, it was difficult to take an appropriate amount from the container, and it did not become a base of hardness that stands on the skin. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 5 in which the blending amount of the carboxyvinyl polymer was large and the viscosity exceeded 10,000 mPa · s, the cosmetic was too hard to take out an appropriate amount from the container.

Below, another formulation example of the skin cosmetic composition of the present invention will be mentioned.
Prescription example 1
Display name Compounding amount (mass%)
Ion exchange water remaining amount ethyl alcohol 10
Dynamite Glycerin 3.5
Dipropylene glycol 3
Acetylated sodium hyaluronate 0.0001
Sodium hyaluronate 0.0009
Polyethylene glycol 400 0.5
Polyoxyethylene (14) Polyoxypropylene (7) Dimethyl Ether 1.5
(Dimethylacrylamide / Acryloyldimethyltaurine Na) Crosspolymer 0.2
POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyl tetradecyl ether 0.1
Potassium hydroxide 0.04
Tranexamic acid 2
Glycylglycine 0.05
l-menthol 0.04
EDTA-2Na · 2H ₂ O appropriate amount sodium pyrosulfite appropriate amount phenoxyethanol appropriate amount perfume appropriate amount total 100

Prescription example 2
Display name Compounding amount (mass%)
Ion exchange water remaining amount ethyl alcohol 10
Dynamite Glycerin 3.5
Dipropylene glycol 3
Acetylated sodium hyaluronate 0.0001
Sodium hyaluronate 0.0009
Polyethylene glycol 400 0.5
Polyoxyethylene (14) Polyoxypropylene (7) Dimethyl Ether 1.5
Acrylic acid / methacrylic acid alkyl copolymer 0.3
POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyl tetradecyl ether 0.1
Potassium hydroxide 0.04
Tranexamic acid 2
Glycylglycine 0.05
l-menthol 0.04
EDTA-2Na · 2H ₂ O appropriate amount sodium pyrosulfite appropriate amount phenoxyethanol appropriate amount perfume appropriate amount total 100

Prescription example 3
Display name Compounding amount (mass%)
Ion exchange water remaining amount ethyl alcohol 10
Dynamite Glycerin 3.5
Dipropylene glycol 3
Acetylated sodium hyaluronate 0.0001
Sodium hyaluronate 0.0009
Polyethylene glycol 400 0.5
Polyoxyethylene (14) Polyoxypropylene (7) Dimethyl Ether 1.5
(Alkyl acrylate / Steareth-20 methacrylate) copolymer 0.9
POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyl tetradecyl ether 0.1
Potassium hydroxide 0.04
Tranexamic acid 2
Glycylglycine 0.05
l-menthol 0.04
Sodium lauryl sulfate appropriate amount EDTA-2Na · 2H ₂ O appropriate amount sodium pyrosulfite appropriate amount phenoxyethanol appropriate amount fragrance appropriate amount total 100

Prescription example 4
Display name Compounding amount (mass%)
Ion exchange water remaining amount ethyl alcohol 10
Dynamite Glycerin 3.5
Dipropylene glycol 3
Acetylated sodium hyaluronate 0.0001
Sodium hyaluronate 0.0009
Polyethylene glycol 400 1.5
Polyoxyethylene (14) Polyoxypropylene (7) Dimethyl Ether 1.5
(PEG-240 / decyltetradeces-20 / HDI) copolymer 1.5
POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyl tetradecyl ether 0.1
4-Methoxysalicylic acid potassium salt 1
Glycylglycine 0.05
l-menthol 0.04
EDTA-2Na · 2H ₂ O appropriate amount sodium pyrosulfite appropriate amount phenoxyethanol appropriate amount perfume appropriate amount total 100

Claims

(A) a skin-whitening agent selected from tranexamic acid and ascorbic acid glucoside;
(B) polyethylene glycol having an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide of 4 to 20;
(C) 0.15% by weight or more water-soluble polymer;
(D) one or more selected from polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ether and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil;
(E) contains water,
A skin cosmetic characterized in that the viscosity at 30 ° C. is in the range of 3,000 to 10,000 mPa · s.
The skin cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the (c) water-soluble polymer is one or more selected from a carboxyvinyl polymer and a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane.
The polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ether of (d) above is POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyl tetradecyl ether, and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil is PEG 60-hydrogenated castor oil The skin cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, which is
The skin cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising (f) a humectant.
The skin cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising (g) a cooling agent.