TW201922210A - Skin cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

The purpose of the present invention is to provide a novel skin cosmetic that has blended therein a whitening agent, that has a hardness suitable for forming a round bloated lump when being placed on the skin, that has a gelatinous feel similar to that of jelly, and that provides an excellent sense of permeation when applied to the skin. This skin cosmetic is characterized by containing: (a) a whitening agent which is selected from tranexamic acid and ascorbic acid glucoside; (b) a polyethylene glycol in which an average polymerization degree of ethylene oxide is 4-20; (c) 0.15 mass % or more of a water-soluble polymer; (d) one or more selected from polyoxyethylene/polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18-C28) ethers and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated cater oils; and (e) water, wherein the viscosity of the skin cosmetic at 30 DEG C is within the range of 3,000 to 10,000 mPa·s.

Description

Skin cosmetics

The present invention relates to a skin cosmetic formulated with a whitening agent. More specifically, it relates to a skin cosmetic material that has a moderate hardness to the extent that it rises roundly on the skin, has a watery, tactile sensation of being frozen, and has excellent keratin penetration when applied to the skin.

The basic functions of skin care cosmetics include cleaning and wiping, anti-drying, anti-ultraviolet, anti-oxidation, and activation. Furthermore, there are skin-care cosmetics with functions such as whitening, wrinkle and relaxation improvement, and acne prevention. It is said that skin care cosmetics are used in the order of the so-called "cosmetic system". This beauty system is a system that uses face cleansing milk to remove makeup and cleansed naked skin, then uses makeup water to replenish (moisturize), and then applies it in the order of beauty liquid, lotion, and cream. In recent years, all-in-one cosmetics, which are applied after lotion to make one cosmetic material have the functions of multiple cosmetic materials, have helped shorten the time required for skin care.

There are also high-performance cosmetic materials formulated with whitening ingredients in full-effect cosmetic materials, and efforts have been made to stably blend effective ingredients such as whitening ingredients in these cosmetic materials. On the other hand, in skin care cosmetics, the touch feeling or the use touch feeling when applied to the skin is also important. For example, a good affinity to the skin or an excellent penetration of the active ingredient into the skin becomes the charm of the cosmetic.

Patent Document 1 describes an external preparation for skin, which contains a thickener and a whitening agent component, and the thickener contains a microgel containing a hydrophilic compound or the like having a gelation ability. It is said that the skin external preparation has no sticky feeling and rough feeling, and has excellent usability, and even if a large amount of whitening ingredients are blended, it does not generate dripping and is relatively stable.

Patent Document 2 discloses a skin external preparation in which an ascorbic acid / alkoxysalicylic acid salt type whitening agent is formulated, and carrageenan is formulated as a thickener, which is said to be excellent in stability over time and in use. The gel containing carrageenan in Patent Document 2 is a gel having a relatively elastic property of a stretchable elastic, which has a high falling value and is difficult to flow. However, it is pointed out that if the shear is greater than the drop value, the deformation is obvious, so the gel disintegrates hydratedly when spreading on the skin, and the ductility is good, without producing mucus or stickiness.

Patent Document 3 discloses a skin external preparation containing a hydrophobically modified polyether carbamate and a microgel mainly containing gellan gum. The skin external preparation is said to have good skin extensibility and affinity. , And non-sticky. An example of a full-effect gel having the above-mentioned characteristics is described (Example 2).
However, there is no known skin cosmetic material that has both moderate hardness and excellent usability.
[Prior technical literature]
[Patent Literature]

[Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2001-342125
[Patent Document 2] Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2005-120051
[Patent Document 3] Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2013-193963

[Problems to be solved by the invention]

The object of the present invention is to provide a novel skin cosmetic material, which is formulated with a whitening agent, has a moderate hardness to the extent that it stands up smoothly on the skin, and has a tactile sensation of freezing with water, and is applied to the skin. It has excellent permeation.
[Technical means to solve the problem]

The present inventors have worked hard to solve the above-mentioned problems, and have completed the present invention based on the findings that if a water-soluble polymer is mixed with polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ether and / or polyoxyethylene A combination of hydrogenated castor oil and polyethylene oxide having a specific number of average degree of polymerization of polyethylene oxide can obtain a previously unavailable base which has a moderate hardness and exhibits excellent use feeling.

That is, the present invention provides a skin cosmetic comprising:
(a) a whitening agent selected from tranexamic acid and ascorbyl glucoside;
(b) polyethylene glycol having an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide of 4 to 20;
(c) water-soluble polymers of 0.15 mass% or more;
(d) one or two or more selected from polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ether and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil; and
(e) water; and
The viscosity at 30 ° C is in the range of 3,000 to 10,000 mPa · s.
[Effect of the invention]

Although the skin cosmetic of the present invention is water-based, it has a moderate hardness to the extent that it stands up smoothly on the skin, and has the appearance and feel of being frozen. Furthermore, it has a good affinity for the skin, can provide a cool feeling of cold, and has an excellent touch when the active ingredients such as whitening agents penetrate the skin.

(a) A whitening agent selected from tranexamic acid and ascorbyl glucoside The whitening agent formulated in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is tranexamic acid and / or ascorbyl glucoside.
Tranexamic acid has previously been used as a whitening agent in cosmetics and the like. The tranexamic acid in the present invention can be selected from tranexamic acid and its salts and derivatives thereof. Examples of the tranexamic acid salt include metal salts such as magnesium salt, calcium salt, sodium salt, and potassium salt, and inorganic salts such as phosphate, hydrochloride, hydrobromide, and sulfate. Examples of the tranexamic acid derivative include tranexamic acid esters (for example, vitamin A esters, vitamin E esters, vitamin C esters, and vitamin D esters, vitamin esters, phenyl esters, hydroquinone esters, Gentisate esters, etc.), tranexamic acid (methylamidamine or a salt thereof), tranexamic acid dimer, and the like.

The ascorbyl glucoside is not particularly limited as long as it is a glycoside of ascorbic acid that can be used as a whitening agent in cosmetics and the like. Examples include L-ascorbic acid glucosides such as L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside and L-ascorbic acid diglucoside.

The amount of the whitening agent ((a) component) in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is usually 0.5 to 5.0% by mass, preferably 0.55 to 4.0% by mass, and more preferably 0.6 to 3.0% by mass. %.

(b) Polyethylene glycol having an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide of 4 to 20 The polyethylene glycol formulated in the skin cosmetics of the present invention includes an oxidation having an average degree of polymerization of 4 to 20, preferably 4 to 12 Ethylene. That is, it is the following formula (A):
H (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n OH (A)
The indicated polymer of ethylene oxide, and the average value of n is 4-20, preferably 4-12.
Specific examples include polyethylene glycol 200 (INCI name: PEG-4), polyethylene glycol 300 (INCI name: PEG-6), polyethylene glycol 400 (INCI name: PEG-8), polyethylene Ethylene glycol 600 (INCI name: PEG-12), polyethylene glycol 1000 (INCI name: PEG-20), and the like. In the system of the present invention, if polyethylene glycol containing ethylene oxide having an average degree of polymerization of more than 20 is used, the required hardness can be obtained, but the skin affinity becomes poor and the stickiness can be felt.

The blending amount of polyethylene glycol (component (b)) with an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide in the skin cosmetic of the present invention of 4 to 20 is usually 0.1 to 3% by mass, preferably 0.2 to 2.5% by mass, more It is preferably 0.3 to 2% by mass.

(c) Water-soluble polymer The water-soluble polymer prepared in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is used as an aqueous tackifier in a cosmetic or the like. Among these, from the viewpoint of obtaining a moderate hardness of the present invention, it is preferable to use one or two or more kinds selected from carboxyvinyl polymers and hydrophobically modified polyether urethanes.

Carboxyvinyl polymer (INCI name: Carbomer) is an acidic polymer (crosslinked polyacrylic acid) mainly composed of an acrylic polymer. As commercially available products, for example, Carbopol 940, 941, 980, 981, 934, 2984, 5984 (manufactured by BF Goodrich), HIVISWAKO 104, 105 (manufactured by Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd.), and the like are available. The carboxyvinyl polymer in the present invention may also be an alkyl-modified polymer (for example, an acrylic acid / alkyl acrylate (C10-30) copolymer, etc.).

A hydrophobically modified polyether urethane is one of associative thickeners, and it is generally considered that hydrophobic portions are associated with each other in an aqueous medium to exhibit a thickening effect (see Patent Document 3). Specifically, a hydrophobically modified polyether carbamate having a structure represented by the following formula (I) can be preferably used.

[Chemical 1]

In the above formula (I), R ₁ represents an alkyl group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and R ₂ and R ₄ each independently represent an alkylene group or a phenyl ethylene group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms. An alkylene group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms is preferred.
R ₃ represents an alkylene group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms which may have a urethane bond.
R ₅ represents a linear, branched, or secondary alkyl group having 8 to 36 carbon atoms, and preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
m is a number of 2 or more. It is preferably 2.
h is a number of 1 or more. It is preferably 1.
k is a number from 1 to 500. The number is preferably 100 to 300.
n is a number from 1 to 200. The number is preferably from 10 to 100.

Among the hydrophobically modified polyether carbamates represented by the above general formula, (PEG-240 / decyltetradecanol polyether-20 / HDI) copolymer (INCI name: PEG-240) can be preferably used. / HDI COPOLYMER BIS-DECYLTETRADECETH-20 ETHER). As a commercially available product of the (PEG-240 / decyltetradecanol polyether-20 / HDI) copolymer, for example, "ADEKA NOL GT-700" (manufactured by ADEKA Corporation) can be cited.

The "moderate hardness" of the present invention refers to the hardness to the extent that a cosmetic material is taken with a finger when taken out of the container, and it stands up smoothly on the skin. The so-called roundly standing means that the cosmetic material is placed in a state of being swollen roundly on the skin like water droplets on a water-based substrate. If the moderate hardness is specified by the viscosity of the cosmetic, the viscosity measured using a B-type viscometer at 30 ° C will be in the range of about 3,000 to about 10,000 mPa · s.

The compounding amount of the water-soluble polymer ((c) component) in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is formulated so that the cosmetic has a moderate hardness. That is, a water-soluble polymer ((c) component) is prepared in an amount such that the viscosity of the cosmetic at 30 ° C is in the range of about 3,000 to about 10,000 mPa · s. Therefore, the blending amount of the water-soluble polymer can be changed according to the properties (molecular weight, etc.) of the water-soluble polymer. In a water-soluble polymer generally used in cosmetics, if the blending amount does not reach 0.15% by mass, the hardness will not be moderate in most cases. Therefore, the compounding amount of a water-soluble polymer is generally set to 0.15% by mass or more. The upper limit of the amount of the water-soluble polymer to be formulated may be an amount that satisfies the above-mentioned viscosity conditions. For example, when only a carboxyvinyl polymer is blended as a water-soluble polymer, it is preferably set to 0.4% by mass or less, and more preferably 0.35% by mass. When only a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane is formulated as a water-soluble polymer, the upper limit is about 5 mass%, preferably about 3 mass%, and more preferably about 2.5 mass%.

(d) One or two or more selected from polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ether and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil
(d) A component is a component which functions as an emulsifier in the system of this invention.
As the polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ether, those having a structure represented by the following formula (II) can be preferably used.

[Chemical 2]

In the above formula, R represents a linear or branched alkyl group having 18 to 28 carbon atoms, m represents a number from 2 to 24, and n represents a number from 10 to 38.

Among polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ethers, POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyltetradecyl ether is particularly preferred, and "S-SAFE 1324", which is a commercially available product, can be used. (D) "(manufactured by Nippon Oil Co., Ltd.).

As the polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil used in the present invention, those having an HLB of 10 or more can be preferably used, such as PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, and PEG-60. Hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, and PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil.

The amount of the component (d) in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is usually 0.05 to 0.5% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 0.4% by mass, and more preferably 0.1 to 0.3% by mass.

Furthermore, in the present invention, it is preferred that the (c) water-soluble polymer and (d) are selected from one of polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ether and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil. Or the ratio of two or more kinds of blending amounts is set in a range of 20: 1 to 1: 1, and more preferably set in a range of 15: 1 to 2: 1.

(e) The amount of water formulated in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but it is usually 60 to 95% by mass, and preferably 70 to 90% by mass.

In the skin cosmetic of the present invention, in addition to the above-mentioned essential components (a) to (e), other optional ingredients formulated in the skincare cosmetic can be further formulated.

For example, the effect of moisturizing and moisturizing the skin can be improved by blending (f) a humectant. Examples of the humectant include glycerin (dynamite glycerin), 1,3-butanediol, dipropylene glycol, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl ether (excluding those corresponding to component (d)), hyaluronic acid, or ethyl alcohol. Tritiated hyaluronic acid and its salts.

Among these humectants, preferably selected from glycerin, dipropylene glycol, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C1 to C3) ether (for example, polyoxyethylene (14) polyoxypropylene (7) dimethyl ether, etc.) ), Hyaluronic acid and acetylated hyaluronic acid in combination of two or more. On the other hand, if diglycerin is blended, it may become sticky when drying after applying cosmetics.

By further blending (g) a cold sensation agent in the skin cosmetic of the present invention, the cooling sensation felt when applied to the skin can be improved, and the skin feels refreshed and tight.
The prepared cold-sensing agent is not particularly limited as long as it can be used in cosmetics or skin external preparations, and examples thereof include menthols such as l-menthol, camphor, and borneol.

Examples of other optional components include, but are not limited to, softeners, ultraviolet absorbers, various agents, lower alcohols (alcohols having 6 or less carbons), oils, inorganic and organic powders, and the like. However, from the viewpoint of refreshing use feeling, it is preferable to set the oil content to be 20% by mass or less, for example, 10% by mass or less or 5% by mass.

The skin cosmetic material of the present invention can be prepared by heating as needed, mixing the ingredients and mixing and mixing appropriately.

The skin cosmetic material of the present invention contains a novel base agent which is water-based but has a moderate hardness to the extent that it rises roundly on the skin. When applied to the skin, it has good affinity and does not feel sticky, which can make whitening agents or moisturizers. Active ingredients such as agents penetrate into the keratin quickly to give a better touch. Therefore, it is preferably provided as, for example, a full-effect skin care cosmetic having all the functions of the previous lotions, lotions, masks, astringent waters, beauty liquids, and the like.
[Example]

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. Unless otherwise specified, the amount to be formulated is expressed by the mass% of the component relative to the total amount of the composition to be formulated.

Skin formulations were prepared according to the formulations listed in Tables 1 and 2 below. The pH value and viscosity measurement (B-type viscometer, No. 3, 12 rpm, 30 ° C) of the cosmetic material (sample) of each example were performed.
In addition, a professional inspector is required to evaluate "the hardness of the cosmetic (sample)", "no stickiness", and "speed of affinity". The evaluation criteria are as follows.

＜ Evaluation criteria ＞
"Hardness (jelly)"
A: It has a moderate hardness to the extent that it rises roundly on the skin and the tactile sensation of freezing water.
B: It is too hard to take out of the container.
C: Too soft and too much taken out of the container, not standing on the skin.

"No stickiness" and "Speed of affinity"
A +: Excellent
A: Excellent
B: Normal
C: Poor

[Table 1]

[Table 2]

As is clear from the results shown in Table 1, the skin cosmetic preparations (Examples 1 to 3) of the present invention prepared with polyethylene glycol having an average polymerization degree of ethylene oxide of 4 to 20 as component (b) were provided on the skin. The moderate hardness of the degree of roundness and the tactile feel of the water are not sticky, and the skin is fast and good. On the other hand, Comparative Example 1 in which diglycerin was blended in place of the component (b) of the present invention produced stickiness when the cosmetic was dried. In addition, Comparative Examples 2 and 3 prepared with polyethylene glycol having an average polymerization degree of ethylene oxide exceeding 20 were sticky and had a slower affinity for the skin.

Based on the results shown in Table 2, good results were obtained even when the water-soluble polymer (c) was changed from a carboxyvinyl polymer to a hydrophobically modified polyether carbamate (Examples 4 to 6). In contrast, (c) Comparative Example 4 in which the compounding amount of the water-soluble polymer is less than 0.15% by mass becomes a softer cosmetic material having a viscosity of less than 3,000 mPa · s. As a result, it was difficult to take out an appropriate amount from the container, and it did not become a base material with hardness such as standing on the skin. In contrast, in Comparative Example 5 in which the carboxyvinyl polymer was blended in a large amount and the viscosity exceeded 10,000 mPa · s, the cosmetic was too hard to take out an appropriate amount from the container.

Examples of other formulations of the skin cosmetic of the present invention are listed below.
Formulation example 1
Display name deployment amount (mass%)
Ion exchange water remaining ethanol 10
Explosive glycerin 3.5
Dipropylene glycol 3
Acetate sodium hyaluronate 0.0001
Sodium hyaluronate
Polyethylene glycol 400 0.5
Polyoxyethylene (14) Polyoxypropylene (7) Dimethyl ether 1.5
(Dimethylacrylamide / acrylfluorenyl dimethyl taurate) crosslinked polymer 0.2
POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyltetradecyl ether 0.1
Potassium hydroxide 0.04
Tranexamic acid 2
Glycine / Glycine 0.05
l-menthol 0.04
EDTA-2Na ・ 2H ₂ O Amount of sodium metabisulfite Amount of phenoxyethanol Amount of perfume Amount of 100

Formulation example 2
Display name deployment amount (mass%)
Ion exchange water remaining ethanol 10
Explosive glycerin 3.5
Dipropylene glycol 3
Acetate sodium hyaluronate 0.0001
Sodium hyaluronate
Polyethylene glycol 400 0.5
Polyoxyethylene (14) Polyoxypropylene (7) Dimethyl ether 1.5
Acrylic acid-alkyl methacrylate copolymer 0.3
POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyltetradecyl ether 0.1
Potassium hydroxide 0.04
Tranexamic acid 2
Glycine / Glycine 0.05
l-menthol 0.04
EDTA-2Na ・ 2H ₂ O Amount of sodium metabisulfite Amount of phenoxyethanol Amount of perfume Amount of 100

Formulation example 3
Display name deployment amount (mass%)
Ion exchange water remaining ethanol 10
Explosive glycerin 3.5
Dipropylene glycol 3
Acetate sodium hyaluronate 0.0001
Sodium hyaluronate
Polyethylene glycol 400 0.5
Polyoxyethylene (14) Polyoxypropylene (7) Dimethyl ether 1.5
(Alkyl acrylate / stearyl alcohol methacrylate-20) copolymer 0.9
POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyltetradecyl ether 0.1
Potassium hydroxide 0.04
Tranexamic acid 2
Glycine / Glycine 0.05
l-menthol 0.04
Sodium lauryl sulfate
EDTA-2Na ・ 2H ₂ O Amount of sodium metabisulfite Amount of phenoxyethanol Amount of perfume Amount of 100

Formula 4
Display name deployment amount (mass%)
Ion exchange water remaining ethanol 10
Explosive glycerin 3.5
Dipropylene glycol 3
Acetate sodium hyaluronate 0.0001
Sodium hyaluronate
Polyethylene glycol 400 1.5
Polyoxyethylene (14) Polyoxypropylene (7) Dimethyl ether 1.5
(PEG-240 / decyl tetradecanol polyether-20 / HDI) copolymer 1.5
POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyltetradecyl ether 0.1
4-methoxysalicylic acid potassium salt 1
Glycine / Glycine 0.05
l-menthol 0.04
EDTA-2Na ・ 2H ₂ O Amount of sodium metabisulfite Amount of phenoxyethanol Amount of perfume Amount of 100

Claims (5)

A skin cosmetic comprising: (a) a whitening agent selected from tranexamic acid and ascorbyl glucoside; (b) polyethylene glycol having an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide of 4 to 20; (c) water-soluble polymers of 0.15 mass% or more; (d) one or two or more selected from polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ether and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil; and (e) water; and The viscosity at 30 ° C is in the range of 3,000 to 10,000 mPa · s. The skin cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the (c) water-soluble polymer is one or two or more selected from the group consisting of a carboxyvinyl polymer and a hydrophobically modified polyether carbamate. For example, the skin cosmetic of claim 1 or 2, wherein the polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18 to C28) ether of (d) above is POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyltetradecyl ether, Polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil is PEG60-hydrogenated castor oil. The skin cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3, further comprising (f) a humectant. The skin cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 4, further comprising (g) a cold sensation agent.