JP5523652B2 - Gel cosmetic and method for producing the same - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a gel cosmetic and a method for producing the same, and more specifically, a gel cosmetic having a uniform appearance, having no irritation, stickiness, moist feeling, soft film feeling, and stability over time. The present invention relates to a material and a manufacturing method thereof.

  Conventionally, various gel-like compositions have been used in pharmaceuticals and cosmetics for the purpose of thickening for maintaining the dosage form and improving the feel (see, for example, Patent Documents 1 and 2). However, these gel-like compositions contain N-long chain acyl acidic amino acid mono-salts and long chain acyl sulfonate type anionic surfactants, and have a unique irritation and stickiness. It was difficult to give a soft film feeling.

  Recently, gel-like cosmetics using phospholipids that are less irritating and excellent in usability have been proposed (see, for example, Patent Documents 3 and 4). However, since gel cosmetics using these phospholipids have many combinations with surfactants, the irritation is increased and the feeling of sliminess is increased, and a soft film feeling cannot be imparted.

  On the other hand, higher alcohols have been blended in cosmetics so far in order to form a unique texture, particularly in the case of solid higher alcohols, a film specific to solids.

  Recently, attempts have been made to prepare cosmetics using phospholipids, which are natural ingredients. For example, a cream using a combination of lecithin, a higher alcohol that is liquid at room temperature and glycerin is highly safe, and emulsified cosmetics with excellent affinity for skin and moisture retention have been introduced (see, for example, Patent Document 5). ).

Japanese Patent No. 3523009 JP 2005-132808 A Japanese Patent No. 2660540 JP 2005-320285 A Japanese Patent No. 2944258

  The present invention has been made to solve such conventional problems, and has a more uniform appearance, less irritation, no stickiness, more moist feeling, soft film feeling, and more An object of the present invention is to provide a gel cosmetic having excellent day stability.

  As a result of intensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventor has formed a synergistic effect of a specific hydrogenated phospholipid, a specific higher alcohol, and water, and has not been reported so far. It has been found that a gel-like cosmetic with a gel that has been clarified for the first time has no irritation and stickiness, and has a moist and soft film feeling, and thus the present invention has been completed.

That is, the present invention provides a hydrogenated phospholipid having a phosphatidylcholine content of 70 % by mass or more as the component (a) and an acid phospholipid content of 10% by mass or more based on the phosphatidylcholine content, and a component (b) at room temperature. A higher alcohol that is solid, water as component (c), and dipropylene glycol as component (d), wherein the ratio of component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid to component (b) higher alcohol is 1: The gel cosmetic is characterized in that the ratio is 2 to 1: 3 and the oil content is less than 3%.

  Moreover, it is preferable that the total amount of the said component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid and the said component (b) higher alcohol is 1-15 mass%.

  The gel cosmetic of the present invention preferably has a viscosity of 1000 to 20000 cps at 25 ° C.

The gel cosmetic of the present invention preferably has a pH of 6.0 to 7.0 .

  The gel cosmetic of the present invention preferably further contains a carboxyvinyl polymer and / or an alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer as component (e).

  Moreover, it is preferable that the gel-like cosmetics of this invention are translucent from the external appearance as cosmetics.

  ADVANTAGE OF THE INVENTION According to this invention, it can provide the gel-like cosmetics which have a uniform external appearance, do not have irritation feeling and stickiness, and are excellent in moist feeling, a soft film feeling, and stability over time.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.

  In the gel cosmetic of the present invention, the hydrogenated phospholipid as component (a) and the higher alcohol as component (b) form an aggregate in the water as component (c), and this aggregate is water. A uniform gel can be formed by uniformly dispersing in the phase.

The hydrogenated phospholipid which is the component (a) is one having high heat and oxidation stability and high gel forming ability. That is, it is a hydrogenated phospholipid containing phosphatidylcholine (hereinafter referred to as “PC”) in an amount of 50% by mass or more and containing an acidic phospholipid in an amount of 10% by mass or more based on the PC content.

  In the case where the PC content in the component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid is less than 50% by mass, a uniform dispersion state is obtained. However, the gel is insufficient in the thickening mechanism in forming an association with the component (b) higher alcohol. No structure is obtained, and no gel-like cosmetic is obtained. Therefore, from the viewpoint of gel formation, in order to obtain a gel-like cosmetic material in a uniformly dispersed state, the PC content is required to be 50% by mass or more, more preferably 60 to 80% by mass, and still more preferably 65 to 65% by mass. 75% by mass.

  Further, even when the content of the acidic phospholipid in the component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid is less than 10% by mass with respect to the PC content, the association with the component (b) higher alcohol is made uniform in the aqueous phase. It cannot be dispersed, causes aggregation, and does not form a uniform gel. Therefore, from the viewpoint of gel formation, in order to obtain a gel cosmetic in a uniform dispersion state, the content of acidic phospholipid is 10 mass as the mass ratio to the PC content in component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid. % Or more is necessary, and it is more preferable in it being 10-30 mass%.

  Specific examples of the acidic phospholipid include phosphatidic acid, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylglycerol, phosphatidylinositol, and lysates thereof. These may be blended alone in the component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid, but can also be selected from the group of soybean lecithin, egg yolk lecithin and the like containing these acidic phospholipids. These can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

  The above-mentioned component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid used in the present invention is not limited as long as it is usually used as a raw material for cosmetics. Examples include lecithin hydrogenates, as well as synthetic lecithin hydrogenates. Specific examples include hydrogenated products of soybean lecithin and egg yolk lecithin, and mixtures of phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine, phosphatidylserine, phosphatidylglycerol, phosphatidylinositol, sphingophospholipid, phosphatidic acid, lysophosphatidylcholine, and the like. Among these, hydrogenated soybean lecithin is the most preferable because it is easily available as a cosmetic raw material.

  The component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid can be blended in cosmetics alone or in combination of two or more, and the blending amount is not particularly limited. 0.1 to 10% by mass is preferable, particularly 1 to 5% by mass, based on the total amount of the material.

  The higher alcohol that is solid at room temperature as the component (b) used in the present invention must be solid at room temperature from the viewpoint of gel forming ability, feeling of use, and moisturizing feeling. Room temperature here is 20 degreeC. Preferred examples of the higher alcohol include lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and behenyl alcohol. Most preferred is cetyl alcohol. These higher alcohols can be used singly or in combination of two or more.

  Although the said component (b) higher alcohol is not specifically limited, From a viewpoint of usability, 0.1-10 mass% is preferable on the basis of the total amount of cosmetics, More preferably, it is 1-5 mass%.

In the gel cosmetic of the present invention, the formation of the aggregates of component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid, component (b) higher alcohol and component (c) water depends on the molar ratio of hydrogenated phospholipid and higher alcohol. Since it changes, the gel state formed when the aggregate is dispersed in the aqueous phase also changes. In order for the component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid and the component (b) higher alcohol to form an aggregate in water, and to form a uniform gel by uniformly dispersing the aggregate in the aqueous phase, at least 1 Is preferably about 1: 1 to 1:12, and a better blending ratio is 1: 1 to 1: 5 in terms of molar ratio, more preferably 1: 2 to 1: 5, and particularly preferably 1: 2 to 1. : 3.

  The desirable molar ratio can be obtained by analyzing the apex of the endothermic peak of the DSC curve in the temperature rising process of the gel cosmetic as a phase transition temperature and observing the presence or absence of the crystalline aggregate of the gel cosmetic.

  That is, the endothermic peak of the aggregate gradually appears as the molar ratio of component (b) higher alcohol increases with respect to the endothermic peak observed in the case of only component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid. When the molar ratio of the component (b) higher alcohol further increases, the endothermic peak shifts to a higher temperature side, and the endothermic peak begins to become gradually sharper. Furthermore, when the molar ratio of the component (b) higher alcohol increases, a single peak starts to be observed, shifts to a higher temperature side, and the peak gradually increases. And it becomes the maximum single peak in the vicinity of a specific molar ratio, and becomes the sharpest single peak in the vicinity.

  Further, when the molar ratio of the component (b) higher alcohol is further increased, the phase transition peak of the component (b) higher alcohol alone is gradually observed in addition to the peak of the aggregate.

  In the endothermic peak, the aggregate starts to gradually form a molar ratio around component (a): component (b) = 3: 2, and component (a): component (b) = 1: 2 to 1: It becomes the maximum around 3.

  Further, as the molar ratio of the component (b) higher alcohol increases, the viscosity increases. When the molar ratio is about 1: 2 to 1: 5, a good gel is observed in appearance. When the molar ratio is above 1: 5, a white gel is formed, the moist feeling is reduced, and crystalline aggregates are observed. The DSC measurement also shows that a hydrated crystal peak of component (b) higher alcohol is observed when the molar ratio is above 1: 5, so this aggregate is a hydrated crystal of component (b) higher alcohol alone. It is confirmed. Furthermore, when the molar ratio is about 1: 2 to 1: 3, no crystalline aggregate is observed, and a gel is uniformly formed.

  In addition, the phase transition temperature of the aggregate is higher than the phase transition temperature of component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid alone and the phase transition temperature of component (b) higher alcohol alone. Since the change below the temperature is reduced, a gel cosmetic excellent in high temperature stability can be obtained as compared with the case where these are blended alone.

  In the gel cosmetic of the present invention, the total amount of component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid and component (b) higher alcohol is preferably 1 to 15%, more preferably 1 to 6%. If it is less than this, the viscosity will be poor, and if it is more than this, it will tend to be heavier to the touch and tend not to give a soft film feeling.

  The gel cosmetic of the present invention preferably contains a polyhydric alcohol as component (d) in addition to the component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid, component (b) higher alcohol, and component (c) water.

The component (d) polyhydric alcohol is used to uniformly dissolve the component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid and the component (b) higher alcohol, and the component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid and component (b) higher alcohol are used. It is preferable to add a component (c) water after melt | dissolving in a component (d) polyhydric alcohol, and to form a gel.

  Examples of the component (d) polyhydric alcohol used in the present invention include dipropylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, sorbitol and the like, but from the viewpoint of dispersibility and usability during cosmetic production. To dipropylene glycol and 1,3-butylene glycol are more preferable, and dipropylene glycol is particularly preferable.

  The component (d) polyhydric alcohol can be blended in cosmetics alone or in combination of two or more, and the blending amount is not particularly limited, but the dispersibility and feeling of use during cosmetic production From a viewpoint, 0.1-30 mass% is preferable on the basis of the total amount of cosmetics, Most preferably, it is 1-20 mass%.

  The viscosity of the gel cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 1000 to 20000 cps at 25 ° C. from the viewpoint of use feeling.

  The pH of the gel cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 5.0 or more from the viewpoint of long-term stability of the gel aggregate at a high temperature, and is 8.0 or less from the viewpoint of phospholipid stability. Is preferred. Further, the pH is preferably 6.0 to 7.0. This is because when the pH decreases, the peak of the aggregate tends to shift to the low temperature side by long-term storage at a high temperature, and the stability tends to decrease. Conversely, when the pH increases, the stability of the phospholipid itself tends to decrease. This is because it tends to decrease.

  In addition to component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid, component (b) higher alcohol, component (c) water, and component (d) polyhydric alcohol, the gel cosmetic of the present invention comprises carboxyvinyl polymer as component (e) And at least one or both of alkyl-modified carboxyvinyl polymer. By blending these, the stability of pH tends to be improved.

  The oil content of the gel cosmetic of the present invention is desirably less than 3%, more preferably less than 1%. When the oil content increases, the gel structure is broken, the viscosity is lowered, and the stability is deteriorated.

  It is desirable that the gel cosmetic of the present invention is translucent in terms of cosmetic appearance.

  In addition to the above components, the gel cosmetic of the present invention includes oils, powders (pigments, dyes, resins), surfactants, stickers, resins, preservatives, fragrances, and ultraviolet rays that are commonly used in cosmetics. Absorbent (including organic and inorganic systems, which may be UV-A or B), solvent, natural plant extract component, seaweed extract component, herbal medicine component, moisturizer, salt, oxidation Components such as an inhibitor, a neutralizer, a pH adjuster, and an insect repellent can be appropriately blended.

Examples of the oil agent include volatile and non-volatile oil agents usually used in cosmetics, solvents, resins, and the like, and may be liquid, paste, or solid at room temperature. Examples of oils include, for example, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, myristyl myristate, hexyl laurate, decyl oleate, isopropyl myristate, hexyl decyl dimethyloctanoate, glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl trioctanoate, tri-2- Esters such as glyceryl heptyl undecanoate, diethyl phthalate, ethylene glycol monostearate, octyl oxystearate, diisostearyl malate, hydrocarbons such as liquid paraffin, paraffin, petrolatum, squalane, lanolin, reduced lanolin, liquid lanolin , Carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ceresin, ozokerite, microcrystalline wax, etc., mink oil, palm oil, camellia oil, sesame oil, castor oil, olive oil Fats, polyethylene wax, ethylene-alpha-olefin co-oligomer, ethylene propylene polymers, and the like.

  Examples of powders include red No. 104, red No. 102, red No. 226, red No. 201, red No. 202, yellow No. 4, black No. 401, etc., blue No. 1 aluminum lake, yellow No. 4 aluminum lake, Rake dyes such as yellow No. 5 aluminum lake, yellow No. 203 barium lake, nylon powder, silk powder, urethane powder, Teflon (registered trademark) powder, silicone powder, polymethyl methacrylate powder, cellulose powder, silicone elastomer spherical powder, Polymers such as polyethylene powder, yellow iron oxide, bengara, black iron oxide, chromium oxide, carbon black, colored pigments such as ultramarine and bitumen, white pigments such as zinc oxide, titanium oxide and cerium oxide, talc, mica and sericite , Kaolin, extender pigments such as plate-like barium sulfate, mica tita Pearl pigments such as barium sulfate, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, aluminum silicate, magnesium silicate, inorganic powders such as silica and alumina, bentonite, smectite, boron nitride, fine particle titanium oxide, fine particle zinc oxide, etc. These are also conventionally known surface treatments such as N-acylated lysine treatment, amino acid treatment, hydrophilic polymer treatment, oil treatment, silicone treatment, metal soap treatment, inorganic compound treatment, plasma treatment, mechanochemical treatment, etc. It is also possible to use the one with the mark. There are no particular restrictions on the shape of these powders (spherical, rod-like, needle-like, plate-like, indeterminate, flake-like, spindle-like, etc.). The size of the powder is preferably in the range of 5 nm to 100 μm, more preferably 10 nm to 25 μm. These powders may be processed alone or may form a mixture and be processed together. Moreover, it is also possible to process what adjusted the color of the mixture to skin color etc. Furthermore, it is possible to obtain a treated powder having an ultraviolet protection function by using an ultraviolet scattering component such as fine particle titanium oxide or fine particle zinc oxide.

  As the surfactant, for example, an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, a nonionic surfactant, and an amphoteric surfactant can be used. More specifically, fatty acid soap, α-acyl sulfonate, N-acyl amino acid salt, alkyl sulfonate, alkyl allyl sulfonate, alkyl naphthalene sulfonate, alkyl sulfate, alkyl ether sulfate, alkyl amide sulfate, Anionic surfactants such as alkyl phosphates, alkylamide phosphates, alkyloyl alkyl taurates, sulfosuccinates, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, alkyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium bromide , Cationic surfactants such as cetostearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, Nonionic surfactants such as acid alkanolamide, POE (polyoxyethylene, the same shall apply hereinafter) sorbitan fatty acid ester, POE glycerin fatty acid ester, POE fatty acid ester, polyether-modified silicone, carboxybetaine type, amide betaine type, sulfobetaine type And amphoteric surfactants such as hydroxysulfobetaine type, amide sulfobetaine type, phosphobetaine type, aminocarboxylate type, imidazoline derivative type, and amidoamine type. Natural surfactants such as saponins and sugar surfactants can also be used.

Examples of adhesives and resins include sodium polyacrylate, cellulose ether, calcium alginate, carboxyvinyl polymer, ethylene / acrylic acid copolymer, vinyl pyrrolidone polymer, vinyl alcohol / vinyl pyrrolidone copolymer, nitrogen substituted acrylamide type Polymers, cationic polymers such as cationized gar gum, dimethylacrylammonium polymers, POE / POP (polyoxypropylene, hereinafter the same) copolymer, polyvinyl alcohol, pullulan, deoxyribonucleic acid and its salts, chondroitin sulfate, etc. Sugars and salts thereof, tamarind seed polysaccharide, agar, xanthan gum, carrageenan, high methoxyl pectin, low methoxyl pectin, gar gum, gum arabic, crystalline cellulose, arabinogalactan Karaya, gum tragacanth, alginic acid, hyaluronic acid and salts thereof, albumin, casein, curdlan, gellan gum, dextran, cellulose, polyethyleneimine, highly polymerized polyethylene glycol, synthetic latex, and the like.

  Examples of the preservative include benzoic acid, sodium benzoate, undecylenic acid, salicylic acid, sorbic acid or a salt thereof, dehydroacetic acid or a salt thereof, methyl paraoxybenzoate, ethyl paraoxybenzoate, propyl paraoxybenzoate, isopropyl paraoxybenzoate, Organic acids such as butyl paraoxybenzoate, isobutyl paraoxybenzoate, benzyl paraoxybenzoate and their derivatives, isopropylmethylphenol, chlorhexidine gluconate, cresol, thymol, parachlorophenol, phenylethyl alcohol, phenylphenol, sodium phenylphenol, phenoxyethanol , Phenols such as phenoxydiglycol, phenol, benzyl alcohol, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyl chloride Quaternary ammonium salts such as limethylammonium, cetylpyridinium chloride, benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, methylbenzethonium chloride, lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, alkylisoquinolium bromide, domifenone bromide, tea extract, hinokitiol, apple extract, etc. And chloramine T, chlorhexidine, zinc pyrithione and the like.

  Examples of organic ultraviolet absorbers include 2-methoxyhexyl paramethoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl paradimethylaminobenzoate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfate, 2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, p-methoxyhydrocinnamic acid diethanolamine salt, paraaminobenzoic acid (hereinafter abbreviated as PABA), homomenthyl salicylate, methyl-O-aminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano -3,3-diphenyl acrylate, octyldimethyl PABA, octyl salicylate, 2-phenyl-benzimidazole-5-sulfuric acid, triethanolamine salicylate, 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 2,4-dihydroxy Nzophenine, 2,2 ′, 4,4′-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2,2′-dihydroxy-4,4′-dimethoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-N-octoxybenzophenone, 4-isopropyldibenzoylmethane, Examples include butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 4- (3,4-dimethoxyphenylmethylene) -2,5-dioxo-1-imidazolidinepropionate 2-ethylhexyl, and the like.

  Examples of the solvent include purified water, cyclic silicone, ethanol, light liquid isoparaffin, lower alcohol, ethers, LPG, fluorocarbon, N-methylpyrrolidone, fluoroalcohol, and next-generation chlorofluorocarbon.

Examples of natural plant extract ingredients, seaweed extract ingredients, and herbal medicine ingredients are Ashitaba extract, Avocado extract, Achacha extract, Altea extract, Arnica extract, Aloe extract, Apricot extract, Apricot extract, Ginkgo biloba extract, fennel extract, Turmeric Extract, Oolong tea extract, Ages extract, Echinacea leaf extract, Ogon extract, Oat extract, Auren extract, Barley extract, Hypericum extract, Oyster extract, Dutch mustard extract, Orange extract, Seawater dried product, Seaweed extract, Hydrolyzed elastin, Hydrolysis Wheat powder, hydrolyzed silk, chamomile extract, carrot extract, cormorant extract, licorice extract, calcade extract, oyster extract, kiwi extract, kina extract, cucumber extract, guanosine, gardenia Kiss, Kumazasa extract, Clara extract, Walnut extract, Grapefruit extract, Clematis extract, Chlorella extract, Mulberry extract, Gentian extract, Tea extract, Yeast extract, Burdock extract, Rice bran extract, Rice germ oil, Comfrey extract, Collagen, Cowberry extract Extract Extract, Horsetail extract, Horseshoe extract, Hawthorn extract, Elderberry extract, Yarrow extract, Japanese peppermint extract, Sauce Extract, mallow extract, senkyu extract, assembly extract, soybean extract, lysium extract, thyme extract, tea extract, clove extract, chigaya extract, chimpi extract, touki extract, tofu extract, tonin extract, spruce extract, dokudami extract, tomato extract, natto extract, Carrot extract, garlic extract, wild rose extract, hibiscus extract, bacmond extract, lotus extract, parsley extract, honey, hamamelis extract, parietaria extract, toad extract, bisabolol, loquat extract, dandelion extract, burdock extract, butterfly extract, butcher bloom extract, Grape extract, propolis, loofah extract, safflower extract, peppermint extract, bodaiju extract, button extract, hop exhaust Pine extract Examples include rose extract, rosemary extract, Roman chamomile extract, royal jelly extract and the like.

  The gel cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by a usual method, such as basic cosmetics such as lotion, emulsion, cream, essence, gel and pack, makeup cosmetics such as foundation and lipstick, shampoo, rinse, It can be applied as hair treatments, hair creams, hair tonics, hair liquids, set gels, hair mousses, set lotions, hair sprays, hair cosmetics such as hair restorers, and bathing agents.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example is given and this invention is demonstrated still in detail, this invention is not limited to this. In addition, all compounding quantities are the mass%.

(Examples 1-3, Comparative Examples 1-2)
Table 1 shows examples in which hydrogenated soybean phospholipids A to E and cetyl alcohol are used as the component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid and the component (b) higher alcohol in the gel cosmetic of the present invention. Moreover, the gel formation of each Example and the evaluation result of uniform dispersibility are also described collectively.

(Adjustment method)
Hydrogenated soybean phospholipids A to E of any of the components (1) to (5), (6) cetyl alcohol, and (7) dipropylene glycol are mixed and dissolved at 80 ° C., and (8) purification at 80 ° C. Water was added, stirred and then cooled to obtain cosmetics of Examples 1 to 3 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2.

<Evaluation of gel formation>
The cosmetics of Examples and Comparative Examples were visually judged and evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
◎: Viscosity ○: Slightly viscous ×: No viscosity

<Uniform dispersibility evaluation>
The cosmetics of Examples and Comparative Examples were visually judged and evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
◎: No separation, uniform ○: No separation, somewhat uniform ×: Separation, non-uniformity

  As can be seen from Table 1, Comparative Example 2 having a PC content of less than 50% by mass has a uniform dispersion state, but has a poor gel thickening mechanism in forming an association with a higher alcohol, and a sufficient gel structure is obtained. No gel-like cosmetic was obtained.

  Further, in the case of Comparative Example 1 in which the proportion of the acidic phospholipid in the component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid is less than 10% by mass with respect to the PC content, the aggregate with the higher alcohol is uniformly dispersed in the aqueous phase. Could not be agglomerated and a uniform gel was not formed.

  Furthermore, as can be seen from Examples 1 and 2, when the mass ratio of the component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid to the PC content of acidic phospholipid is 10 to 30% by mass, the gel-forming property was particularly good. It was.

  Next, the formation of aggregates with hydrogenated soybean phospholipid as component (a), cetyl alcohol as component (b) and water as component (c) was observed by differential scanning calorimetry (hereinafter DSC) measurement. did. As hydrogenated soybean phospholipid, hydrogenated soybean phospholipid F having a PC content of 75% and acidic phospholipid of 10% (the ratio of acidic phospholipid to PC was 13.3%) was used.

FIG. 1 shows cosmetics prepared by changing the molar ratio of hydrogenated soybean phospholipid F and cetyl alcohol in a system consisting of hydrogenated soybean phospholipid F, cetyl alcohol, dipropylene glycol and water (Comparative Examples 3 to 5). DSC measurement results of Reference Examples 4 to 5, Example 6 and Example 8) are shown. The composition is shown in Table 2 together with Example 7, Examples 9 to 13, and Comparative Example 6. In addition, Table 2 also shows properties, viscosities, and polarizing microscope observation results of the cosmetics of Comparative Examples 3 to 6, Reference Examples 4 to 5, and Examples 6 to 13.

The cosmetics of Comparative Examples 3 to 6, Reference Examples 4 to 5, and Examples 6 to 13 were prepared by mixing and dissolving hydrogenated soybean phospholipid F, cetyl alcohol, and dipropylene glycol at 80 ° C., and purified water at 80 ° C. Was added, stirred and then cooled.

  Further, DSC measurement in this example was performed specifically using DSC 6220 (manufactured by SII Nanotechnology Co., Ltd.), and the peak of the endothermic peak of the DSC curve in the temperature rising process was defined as the phase transition temperature.

In FIG. 1, in the case of only the hydrogenated soybean phospholipid F as the component (a) (Comparative Example 3), peaks are observed at about 52 ° C. and 57 ° C., but the cetyl alcohol as the component (b) As the molar ratio increases, aggregate peaks gradually appear. The peak shifts to a higher temperature from the molar ratio of component (a): component (b) = 1: 1 ( Reference Example 4), and the peak gradually begins to become sharper. Furthermore, a single peak starts to be observed when the molar ratio is around component (a): component (b) = 1: 1.6 ( Reference Example 5), shifts to a higher temperature side, and the peak gradually increases. Furthermore, the maximum single peak is obtained when the molar ratio is around component (a): component (b) = 1: 2 to 1: 3 (Examples 6 to 8). When the molar ratio is component (a): component (b) = 1: 2, the sharpest single peak is obtained.

  Further, when the molar ratio of component (b) is further increased, the phase transition peak of cetyl alcohol alone is gradually observed in addition to the peak of the aggregate.

  From this, this aggregate starts to gradually form from the vicinity of the component (a): component (b) = 3: 2 (Comparative Example 5), and the component (a): component (b) = 1: It turns out that it becomes the maximum around 2-1: 3. Furthermore, when the molar ratio of cetyl alcohol is increased, an endothermic peak of cetyl alcohol is observed around 52 ° C. separately from the peak of the aggregate, and there is a single cetyl alcohol separately from the aggregate. I understand that Since the peak of this aggregate is around 67 ° C. at the maximum, it can be seen that a stable aggregate is formed at 60 ° C. or lower.

  The measurement methods related to properties, viscosity, and observation under a polarizing microscope in Table 2 are shown below.

<Properties>
The appearance was visually observed.

<Viscosity measurement method>
It was measured with a single cylindrical rotational viscometer (rotor No. 3, 25 ° C., 12 rpm and rotor No. 4, 25 ° C., 12 rpm) manufactured by Shibaura System Co., Ltd.

<Observation with polarizing microscope>
The product was observed under polarized light with a polarizing microscope ECLIPSE E600W POL manufactured by Nikon Corporation and evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
○: No crystalline aggregate Δ: Some aggregate present ×: Crystal aggregate present

As can be seen from Table 2, with the increase in the amount of cetyl alcohol, the viscosity increased. When the molar ratio was about 1: 2 to 1: 5, a good gel was observed on the appearance (Examples 6 to 8). Reference Examples 9 to 10). When the molar ratio was above 1: 5, a white gel was formed, and the moist feeling was reduced. From observation with a polarizing microscope, crystalline aggregates were observed ( Reference Examples 11 to 13). DSC measurement also shows that a hydrated crystal peak of cetyl alcohol is observed when the molar ratio is above 1: 5, and this aggregate is confirmed to be a hydrated crystal of cetyl alcohol alone. Furthermore, when the molar ratio was about 1: 2 to 1: 3, no crystalline aggregate was observed with a polarizing microscope, and it was observed that a gel was uniformly formed (Examples 6 to 8). .

  From the above, it is considered that the hydrogenated soybean phospholipid and cetyl alcohol form an aggregate in water, and the aggregate is uniformly dispersed in the aqueous phase to form a uniform gel. In the present invention, considering the DSC results in FIG. 1 and the results in Table 2 in general, a good blending ratio is 1: 1 to 1: 5 in molar ratio, more preferably 1: 2 to 1: 5. It can be seen that it is particularly preferably 1: 2 to 1: 3.

  In addition, the phase transition temperature of this aggregate is about 68 ° C, the phase transition temperature of hydrogenated soybean phospholipid alone (about 52 ° C, 57 ° C) and the phase transition temperature of cetyl alcohol alone (about 37 ° C, about 52 ° C). ), And the aggregate is less likely to change below this phase transition temperature. Therefore, a gel-like cosmetic having excellent high-temperature stability can be obtained as compared with the case where these are blended alone. .

  Next, Table 3 shows gel cosmetics of Examples 14 to 20 prepared by fixing the molar ratio of the hydrogenated soybean phospholipid and cetyl alcohol to 1: 2 and changing the pH. Furthermore, the change rate of the peak temperature of the aggregate in DSC measurement when stored at 45 ° C. for 4 months is also shown.

<PH measurement>
Measurement was performed with a pH meter (F-55) manufactured by Horiba.

<Evaluation of change rate of peak temperature>
◎: Change rate 5% or less ○: Change rate 5-10% or less ×: Change rate 10% or more

  As can be seen from Table 3, as the pH increases, the peak temperature shift is suppressed. At pH 5.0 or higher, the peak shift is small even after storage at 45 ° C. for 4 months, and the aggregates change. Absent. Furthermore, it can be seen that at pH 6.0 or higher, there is almost no peak shift and a stable aggregate is retained.

( Examples 21, 23-25, 28, Reference Examples 22, 26 gel cosmetic liquid)
Gel cosmetic liquids having the compositions shown in Table 4 were prepared and evaluated for feeling of use, moisturizing feeling, and stability.

(Preparation method)
1. Components (1) to (5) are mixed and dissolved at 80 ° C. (a).
2. Components (6) to (10) are mixed and dissolved at 80 ° C. (b).
3. (B) was added to (a) and stirred, and after cooling, a gel was obtained.

<Usage evaluation method>
Twenty professional evaluation panelists evaluated five levels of non-irritating, non-sticky, moist, and soft film feeling, and further judged from the average points according to the following criteria.

5-point rating 5 points: Very good 4 points: Good 3 points: Normal 2 points: Slightly bad 1 point: Bad

Judgment ◎: Average score is 4.5 or more ○: Average score is 3.5 or more and less than 4.5 Δ: Average score is 2.5 or more and less than 3.5 ×: Average score is 2.5 Less than

<Stability test>
The gel cosmetic liquids of Examples 21 to 28 were stored at 0 ° C., room temperature, and 40 ° C., and the appearance and viscosity change after one month were measured and evaluated according to the following evaluation criteria.
◎: No separation, no change in viscosity of 10% or more ○: No separation, change in viscosity of 10-20% ×: Separation

  As shown in Table 4, it is clear that the cosmetic of the present invention has no irritation, is not sticky, has a moist feeling, a soft film feeling, and excellent stability over time.

( Reference Example 29 Gelled emulsion)
Ingredient name Compounding amount (mass%)
(1) Stearic acid 1.0
(2) Steric acid glycerin ester 1.0
(3) Cetyl alcohol 1.0
(4) Cholesterol 0.5
(5) Liquid paraffin 0.2
(6) Methyl polysiloxane 0.4
(7) Squalane 0.1
(8) Butylparaben (9) Hydrogenated soybean lecithin ^(*) 1.0
(10) Acyl glutamate 0.5
(11) Xanthan gum 0.5
(14) Glycerin 2.0
(15) Dipropylene glycol 3.0
(16) Potassium hydroxide appropriate amount (17) Disodium edetate 0.01
(18) Residual amount of purified water -------------------------
Total 100.0
Hydrogenated soybean lecithin ^(*) PC content 70%, acidic phospholipid 14% (vs PC 20%)

(Preparation method)
1. Components (1) to (9) are mixed and dissolved at 80 ° C. (a).
2. Components (10) to (18) are mixed and dissolved at 80 ° C. (b).
3. (B) was added to (a) and stirred, and after cooling, an emulsion was obtained.

( Reference Example 30 Gel lotion)
Ingredient name Compounding amount (mass%)
(1) Ethanol 10.0
(2) POE (60) hydrogenated castor oil 0.5
(3) Hydrogenated soybean lecithin ^(**) 0.5
(4) Behenyl alcohol 0.4
(5) Glycerin 3.0
(6) 1,3-butylene glycol 7.0
(7) Dipropylene glycol 3.0
(8) Polyethylene glycol 1500 1.0
(9) Sodium hydroxide appropriate amount (10) Phosphate fine amount (11) Methyl paraben fine amount (12) Tetosodium edetate 0.01
(13) Purified water remaining amount -------------------------
Total 100.0
Hydrogenated soybean lecithin ^(**) PC content 80%, acidic phospholipid 10% (vs PC 12.5%)

(Preparation method)
1. Components (1) to (8) are mixed and dissolved at 50 ° C. (a).
2. Components (9) to (13) are mixed and dissolved (b).
3. (A) was added to (b) and stirred, and after cooling, a lotion was obtained.

( Reference Example 31 gel cream)
Ingredient name Compounding amount (mass%)
(1) Stearic acid 1.0
(2) Sorbitan monoisostearate 1.0
(3) Stearyl alcohol 3.0
(4) Behenyl alcohol 1.0
(5) Oleyl alcohol 0.5
(6) Cholesterol 0.5
(7) Phytosterol 0.2
(8) Squalane 1.0
(9) Octyldodecyl myristate 1.0
(10) Methylcyclopolysiloxane 1.0
(11) Butylparaben (12) Hydrogenated soybean lecithin ^(***) 4.0
(13) Dipropylene glycol 20.0
(14) Xanthan gum 0.1
(15) Glycerin 7.0
(16) 1,3-butylene glycol 5.0
(17) Diisopropanolamine appropriate amount (18) Dipotassium edetate 0.05
(19) Phenoxyethanol 0.02
(20) Purified water remaining amount -------------------------
Total 100.0
Hydrogenated soybean lecithin ^(***) PC content 60%, acidic phospholipid 20% (vs. PC about 33%)

(Preparation method)
1. Components (1) to (13) are mixed and dissolved at 80 ° C. (a).
2. Components (15) to (20) are mixed and dissolved at 80 ° C. (b).
3. (B) was added to (a) and stirred, and after cooling, a cream was obtained.

( Reference Example 32 Sunscreen)
Ingredient name Compounding amount (mass%)
(1) Ethanol 8.0
(2) Fine particle titanium oxide 5.0
(3) Zinc oxide 5.0
(4) Octyl methoxycinnamate 2.0
(5) POE / POP ^{(* 1)} Modified dimethylpolysiloxane 1.0
(6) 1,3-butylene glycol 15.0
(7) Methylcyclopolysiloxane 0.5
(8) Dimethylpolysiloxane 0.3
(9) Hydrogenated egg yolk lecithin ^(*) 3.5
(10) Myristyl alcohol 3.0
(11) Methylparaben 0.1
(12) Purified water remaining amount -----------------------------
Total 100.0
(* 1) Polyoxyethylene / polyoxypropylene hydrogenated egg yolk lecithin ^(*) PC content 55%, acidic phospholipid 11% (vs. PC about 20%)

(Preparation method)
1. Components (4) to (10) are mixed and dissolved at 80 ° C. (a).
2. Components (11) to (12) are mixed and dissolved at 80 ° C. (b).
3. (B) is added to (a), stirred and cooled (c).
4). Components (1) to (3) were added to (c), and after stirring, a sunscreen was obtained.

( Reference Example 33 Gel serum)
Ingredient name Compounding amount (mass%)
(1) Hydrogenated egg yolk lecithin ^(**) 1.2
(2) Stearyl alcohol 0.5
(3) Myristyl alcohol 0.2
(4) Ethanol 8.0
(5) Dipropylene glycol 7.0
(6) Polyethylene glycol 4000 4.0
(7) Xanthan gum 0.1
(8) Methylcellulose 0.05
(9) Dipotassium edetate 0.02
(10) Purified water remaining amount -----------------------------
Total 100.0
Hydrogenated egg yolk lecithin ^(**) PC content 85%, acidic phospholipid 12% (vs. PC about 14%)

(Preparation method)
1. Components (1) to (5) are heated to 60 ° C. and uniformly dissolved (a).
2. Components (6) to (10) are mixed and dissolved (b).
3. (A) was added to (b) and stirred, and after cooling, a serum was obtained.

( Reference Example 34 Whitening Gel)
Ingredient name Compounding amount (mass%)
(1) Hydrogenated soybean lecithin ^(****) 5.0
(3) Cetyl alcohol 2.0
(4) Stearyl alcohol 2.0
(5) Behenyl alcohol 2.0
(6) Phytosterol 0.5
(7) Propylene glycol 9.0
(8) Ascorbic acid glucoside 2.0
(9) Arbutin 3.0
(10) Polyethylene glycol 1000 1.0
(11) Sorbitol 3.0
(12) Maltitol 4.0
(13) Diisopropanolamine appropriate amount (14) Potassium hydroxide appropriate amount (15) Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.1
(16) Disodium edetate 0.04
(17) Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate 0.1
(18) Phenoxyethanol 0.2
(19) Purified water remaining amount -----------------------------
Total 100.0
Hydrogenated soybean lecithin ^(****) PC content 75%, acidic phospholipid 24% (vs PC 32%)

1. Components (1) to (7) are mixed and dissolved at 80 ° C. (a).
2. Components (8) to (19) are mixed and dissolved at 80 ° C. (b).
3. (B) was added to (a) and stirred, and after cooling, a whitening gel was obtained.

( Reference Example 35 Anti-aging gel)
Ingredient name Compounding amount (mass%)
(1) Hydrogenated soybean lecithin ^(*****) 5.0
(3) Cetyl alcohol 2.0
(4) Stearyl alcohol 2.0
(5) Behenyl alcohol 2.0
(6) Phytosterol 0.5
(7) Retinol palmitate 0.1
(8) nicotinic acid dl-α-tocopherol 0.1
(9) Ubidecarenone 0.03
(10) Glycerol 3.0
(11) Polyethylene glycol 600 1.0
(12) Dipropylene glycol 15.0
(13) Sorbitol 2.0
(14) Maltitol 2.0
(15) Diisopropanolamine appropriate amount (16) Potassium hydroxide appropriate amount (17) Carboxyvinyl polymer 0.1
(18) Edetate disodium 0.04
(19) Dipotassium glycyrrhizinate 0.1
(20) Phenoxyethanol 0.2
(21) Purified water remaining amount -----------------------------
Total 100.0
Hydrogenated soybean lecithin ^(*****) PC content 62.5%, acid phospholipid 20% (vs PC 32%)

1. Components (1) to (12) are mixed and dissolved at 80 ° C. (a).
2. Components (13) to (21) are mixed and dissolved at 80 ° C. (b).
3. (B) was added to (a), stirred and cooled to obtain a whitening gel.

The cosmetics of Reference Examples 29 to 35 were used as samples, and as a result of performing an evaluation test using the feeling of use evaluation method and the stability method over time in the above final formulation, there was no irritation, stickiness, moist feeling, soft film feeling and Excellent day stability.

It is a figure which shows the DSC measurement result in the gel cosmetics of this invention.

Explanation of symbols

1 DSC curve of hydrogenated phospholipid only (Comparative Example 3)
2 Hydrogenated phospholipid: cetyl alcohol = 3: 1 DSC curve (Comparative Example 4)
3 Hydrogenated phospholipid: cetyl alcohol = DSC curve of 3: 2 (Comparative Example 5)
4 Hydrogenated phospholipid: cetyl alcohol = 1: 1 DSC curve ( Reference Example 4)
5 DSC curve of hydrogenated phospholipid: cetyl alcohol = 1: 1.6 ( Reference Example 5)
6 DSC curve of hydrogenated phospholipid: cetyl alcohol = 1: 2 (Example 6)
7 Hydrogenated phospholipid: cetyl alcohol = 1: 3 DSC curve (Example 8)

Claims (7)

Component (a) is a hydrogenated phospholipid having a phosphatidylcholine content of 70 % by mass or more and an acidic phospholipid content of 10% by mass or more based on the phosphatidylcholine content, and a higher alcohol that is solid at room temperature as component (b) Water as component (c) and dipropylene glycol as component (d), and the ratio of component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid to component (b) higher alcohol is from 1: 2 to 1: 3 in molar ratio. And a gel cosmetic characterized by having an oil content of less than 3%. The gel cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the total amount of component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid and component (b) higher alcohol is 1 to 15% by mass. The gel cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the viscosity of the gel cosmetic is 1000 to 20000 cps at 25 ° C. The gel cosmetics according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the pH of the gel cosmetics is 6.0 to 7.0. Furthermore, the gel cosmetics as described in any one of Claims 1-4 which contain a carboxy vinyl polymer and / or an alkyl modified carboxy vinyl polymer as a component (e). The gel-like cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the appearance of the gel-like cosmetic is translucent. The component (d) is prepared by dissolving component (a) hydrogenated phospholipid and component (b) higher alcohol in component (d) dipropylene glycol and then adding component (c) water. The manufacturing method of the gel cosmetics as described in any one of -6.

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