JP7203751B2 - skin cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a skin cosmetic containing a whitening agent. More specifically, it relates to a skin cosmetic that has an appropriate hardness to the extent that it stands plumply on the skin, has a jelly-like tactile sensation, and is excellent in permeation into keratin when applied to the skin.

Basic functions of skin care cosmetics include cleansing/wiping, anti-drying, anti-ultraviolet, anti-oxidation, and activation. In addition, there are skin care cosmetics with functions such as whitening, improving wrinkles and sagging, and preventing acne. It is said that skin care cosmetics are mainly used in order according to the so-called "beauty system". This beauty system is a system in which makeup is removed and the skin is washed with a facial cleanser, water is replenished (moisturized) with lotion, and then a serum, milky lotion, and cream are applied in this order. In recent years, all-in-one cosmetics, in which one cosmetic has the functions of a plurality of cosmetics to be applied after skin lotion, have been marketed, and are useful in shortening the time required for skin care.

There are highly functional cosmetics in which whitening ingredients are blended into all-in-one cosmetics, and efforts have been made to stably blend active ingredients such as whitening ingredients in these cosmetics. On the other hand, in skin care cosmetics, the tactile sensation and feel of use when applied to the skin are also important. For example, the cosmetics are attractive because they have good compatibility with the skin and excellent penetration of active ingredients into the skin.

Patent Document 1 describes an external preparation for skin containing a thickener composed of a microgel containing a hydrophilic compound having a gelling ability and a whitening agent component. It is stated that the topical preparation for skin is free from stickiness and squeakiness, has excellent usability, and is stable without causing syneresis even when a large amount of whitening component is blended.

Patent Document 2 discloses an external preparation for skin containing an ascorbic acid/alkoxysalicylic acid-based salt-type whitening agent and carrageenan as a thickening agent, which is said to have excellent stability over time and feel during use. It is The gel composed of carrageenan in Patent Document 2 is a soft and relatively elastic gel that has a high yield value and is difficult to flow. However, it is taught that when the shear is greater than the yield value, the gel deforms significantly, so that when spread on the skin, the gel is freshly crushed, spreads well, and does not cause sliminess or stickiness.

Patent Document 3 discloses an external preparation for skin containing a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane and a microgel mainly composed of gellan gum, and states that the external preparation for skin spreads well and is compatible with the skin and is not sticky. It is An example of an all-in-one gel having the properties described above is described (Example 2).
However, there is no known skin cosmetic that achieves both moderate hardness and excellent usability.

Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2001-342125 JP 2005-120051 A JP 2013-193963 A

An object of the present invention is to provide a new skin cosmetic containing a whitening agent, which has an appropriate hardness to the extent that it stands on the skin and a tactile sensation like a jiggly jelly, and is excellent in penetrating feeling when applied to the skin. To provide a suitable skin cosmetic.

As a result of extensive studies to solve the above problems, the present inventors have found that the water-soluble polymer is a polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18-C28) ether and / or polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil, and a predetermined The present invention was completed based on the finding that, when blended with polyethylene glycol having an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide, it is possible to obtain an unprecedented base that has moderate hardness and exhibits an excellent feel during use. came to.

That is, the present invention
(a) a skin lightening agent selected from tranexamic acid and ascorbic acid glucoside;
(b) polyethylene glycol having an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide of 4 to 20;
(c) 0.15% by mass or more of a water-soluble polymer;
(d) one or more selected from polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18-C28) ethers and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil; and
(e) contains water;
Provided is a skin cosmetic having a viscosity at 30° C. in the range of 3,000 to 10,000 mPa·s.

The skin cosmetic of the present invention is water-based, yet has an appropriate hardness to the extent that it stands plumply on the skin, and has a jelly-like appearance and feel. Furthermore, it has a good compatibility with the skin, can give a cool sensation, and has an excellent feeling that active ingredients such as whitening agents penetrate into the skin.

(a) Whitening agent selected from tranexamic acid and ascorbic acid glucoside The whitening agent blended in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is tranexamic acid and/or ascorbic acid glucoside.
Tranexamic acid has been conventionally used as a whitening agent in cosmetics and the like. The tranexamic acid in the present invention can be selected from tranexamic acid and salts and derivatives thereof. The tranexamate includes metal salts such as magnesium salts, calcium salts, sodium salts and potassium salts, and inorganic salts such as phosphates, hydrochlorides, hydrobromides and sulfates. Examples of tranexamic acid derivatives include tranexamic acid esters (for example, vitamin esters such as vitamin A ester, vitamin E ester, vitamin C ester, and vitamin D ester, phenyl esters, hydroquinone esters, gentisic acid esters, etc.), Examples include tranexamic acid amide (methylamide or a salt thereof), tranexamic acid dimer, and the like.

Ascorbic acid glucoside is not particularly limited as long as it is a glycoside of ascorbic acid that is used as a whitening agent in cosmetics and the like. Examples thereof include L-ascorbic acid glucosides such as L-ascorbic acid-2-glucoside and L-ascorbic acid diglucoside.

The amount of the whitening agent (component (a)) in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is usually 0.5 to 5.0% by mass, preferably 0.55 to 4.0% by mass, More preferably, it is 0.6 to 3.0% by mass.

(b) Polyethylene Glycol with an Average Degree of Polymerization of Ethylene Oxide of 4-20 The polyethylene glycol blended in the skin cosmetic of the present invention contains ethylene oxide with an average degree of polymerization of 4-20, preferably 4-12. That is, the following formula (A):
H( _OCH2CH2 ) _nOH ( _A )
wherein the average value of n is 4-20, preferably 4-12.
Specific examples include polyethylene glycol 200 (INCI name: PEG-4), polyethylene glycol 300 (INCI name: PEG-6), polyethylene glycol 400 (INCI name: PEG-8), polyethylene glycol 600 (INCI name: PEG- 12), and polyethylene glycol 1000 (INCI name: PEG-20). When polyethylene glycol containing ethylene oxide having an average degree of polymerization of more than 20 is used in the system of the present invention, the desired hardness can be obtained, but the compatibility with the skin deteriorates and stickiness is felt.

The blending amount of polyethylene glycol (component (b)) having an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide of 4 to 20 in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is usually 0.1 to 3% by mass, preferably 0.2 to 2.5. % by mass, more preferably 0.3 to 2% by mass.

(c) Water-soluble polymer The water-soluble polymer blended in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is used as an aqueous thickener in cosmetics and the like. Among them, it is preferable to use one or more selected from carboxyvinyl polymer and hydrophobically modified polyether urethane from the viewpoint of obtaining an appropriate hardness in the present invention.

Carboxyvinyl polymer (INCI name: carbomer) is an acidic polymer (crosslinked polyacrylic acid) mainly composed of acrylic acid polymer. As commercial products, for example, Carbopol 940, 941, 980, 981, 934, 2984, 5984 (manufactured by BF Goodrich), Hivis Wako 104, 105 (manufactured by Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd.), etc. are available. The carboxyvinyl polymer in the present invention may be alkyl-modified (eg, acrylic acid/alkyl acrylate (C10-30) copolymer, etc.).

Hydrophobically modified polyether urethane is a type of associative thickening agent, and is considered to exhibit a thickening action by associating hydrophobic moieties in an aqueous medium (see Patent Document 3). Specifically, a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane having a structure represented by the following formula (I) is preferably used.

上記式（Ｉ）中、Ｒ_１は炭素原子数２～４のアルキル基を示し、Ｒ_２およびＲ_４は各々独立に炭素原子数２～４のアルキレン基またはフェニルエチレン基を示す。好ましくは炭素原子数２～４のアルキレン基である。
Ｒ_３は、ウレタン結合を有していてもよい炭素原子数１～１０のアルキレン基を示す。
Ｒ_５は、炭素原子数８～３６、好ましくは１２～２４の、直鎖、分岐または２級のアルキル基を示す。
ｍは、２以上の数である。好ましくは２である。
ｈは、１以上の数である。好ましくは１である。
ｋは、１～５００の数である。好ましくは１００～３００の数である。
ｎは、１～２００の数である。好ましくは１０～１００の数である。

In formula (I) above, R ₁ represents an alkyl group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and R ₂ and R ₄ each independently represents an alkylene group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms or a phenylethylene group. An alkylene group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms is preferred.
R ₃ represents an alkylene group having 1 to 10 carbon atoms which may have a urethane bond.
R ₅ represents a linear, branched or secondary alkyl group having 8 to 36 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 24 carbon atoms.
m is a number of 2 or more. Two is preferred.
h is a number of 1 or more. 1 is preferred.
k is a number from 1 to 500; A number between 100 and 300 is preferred.
n is a number from 1 to 200; A number between 10 and 100 is preferred.

Among the hydrophobically modified polyether urethanes represented by the above general formula, (PEG-240/decyltetradeceth-20/HDI) copolymer (INCI name: PEG-240/HDI COPOLYMER BIS-DECYLTETRADECETH-20 ETHER) is preferable. Used. Commercially available (PEG-240/decyltetradeceth-20/HDI) copolymers include, for example, “ADEKA NOL GT-700” (manufactured by ADEKA Corporation).

The "appropriate hardness" in the present invention is hardness to the extent that an appropriate amount of the cosmetic material can be taken out with fingers when the cosmetic material is taken out of the container, and it can stand on the skin. Standing plumply means that the cosmetic is placed on the skin in a round, swollen state like water droplets on a water-repellent substrate. If this moderate hardness is defined by the viscosity of the cosmetic, the viscosity measured using a Brookfield viscometer at 30° C. falls within the range of about 3,000 to about 10,000 mPa·s.

The amount of the water-soluble polymer (component (c)) in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is such that the cosmetic has an appropriate hardness. That is, the water-soluble polymer (component (c)) is blended in such an amount that the viscosity of the cosmetic at 30°C falls within the range of about 3,000 to about 10,000 mPa·s. Therefore, the blending amount of the water-soluble polymer may vary depending on the properties (molecular weight, etc.) of the water-soluble polymer. With water-soluble polymers that are commonly used in cosmetics, if the blending amount is less than 0.15% by mass, the appropriate hardness is often not obtained. Therefore, the blending amount of the water-soluble polymer is usually set to 0.15% by mass or more. The upper limit of the blending amount of the water-soluble polymer may be any amount that satisfies the above viscosity conditions. For example, when only a carboxyvinyl polymer is blended as a water-soluble polymer, the content is preferably 0.4% by mass or less, more preferably 0.35% by mass. When only hydrophobically modified polyether urethane is blended as the water-soluble polymer, the upper limit is about 5% by mass, preferably about 3% by mass, more preferably about 2.5% by mass.

(d) One or more selected from polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18-C28) ethers and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil (d) is a component that acts as an emulsifier in the system of the present invention. be.
As polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18-C28) ethers, those having a structure represented by the following formula (II) are preferably used.

上記式中、Ｒは炭素数１８～２８の直鎖又は分岐鎖のアルキル基、ｍは２～２４の数、ｎは１０～３８の数を表す。

In the above formula, R is a linear or branched alkyl group having 18 to 28 carbon atoms, m is a number of 2 to 24, and n is a number of 10 to 38.

Among polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18-C28) ethers, POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyltetradecyl ether is particularly preferable, and its commercial product "S-Safe 1324 (D)" (NOF CORPORATION company) can be used.

The polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil used in the present invention has an HLB of 10 or more, for example, PEG-30 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-50 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG- 60 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-80 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-100 hydrogenated castor oil and the like are preferably used.

The amount of component (d) in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is usually 0.05 to 0.5% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 0.4% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 0.3%. % by mass.

In the present invention, the (c) water-soluble polymer and (d) one or more selected from polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18-C28) ethers and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil is preferably in the range of 20:1 to 1:1, more preferably in the range of 15:1 to 2:1.

(e) Water The amount of water incorporated in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited, but is usually 60-95% by mass, preferably 70-90% by mass.

In addition to the above-mentioned essential components (a) to (e), the skin cosmetic of the present invention may further contain other optional components that are blended in skin care cosmetics.

For example, by blending (f) a moisturizing agent, the moisturizing effect of the skin can be enhanced. Moisturizing agents include glycerin (dynamite glycerin), 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl ether (excluding those corresponding to component (d)), hyaluronic acid or acetylated hyaluronic acid. Examples include acids and salts thereof.

Among these humectants, glycerin, dipropylene glycol, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C1-C3) ethers (such as polyoxyethylene (14) polyoxypropylene (7) dimethyl ether, etc.), hyaluronic acid and acetylated It is preferable to combine two or more selected from hyaluronic acid. On the other hand, when diglycerin is blended, stickiness may occur when the cosmetics are dried after application.

By further blending (g) a cooling agent in the skin cosmetic of the present invention, it is possible to improve the cooling sensation felt when applied to the skin, and to give the skin a refreshing and firm feeling.
The cooling sensation agent to be blended is not particularly limited as long as it can be used in cosmetics and external skin preparations, and examples thereof include menthols such as l-menthol, camphors, and borneols.

Examples of other optional components include, but are not limited to, emollients, ultraviolet absorbers, various chemicals, lower alcohols (alcohols having 6 or less carbon atoms), oils, inorganic and organic powders, and the like. However, from the viewpoint of a refreshing feeling in use, the amount of oil to be blended is preferably 20% by mass or less, for example, 10% by mass or less, or 5% by mass or less.

The skin cosmetic of the present invention is prepared by appropriately stirring and mixing the ingredients while heating as necessary.

The skin cosmetic of the present invention contains a novel base that is water-based yet has an appropriate hardness to the extent that it stands on the skin, has good compatibility with the skin and does not feel sticky when applied to the skin, and is used as a whitening agent. It can give a feeling that active ingredients such as moisturizing agents quickly penetrate into the keratin. Therefore, it is preferable to provide, for example, an all-in-one skin care cosmetic having all the functions of a conventional lotion, milky lotion, mask, astringent, and serum.

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited to these Examples. Unless otherwise specified, the blending amount is shown in % by mass with respect to the total amount of the composition in which the component is blended.

Skin cosmetics were prepared according to the formulations shown in Tables 1 and 2 below. The pH value and viscosity of each cosmetic (sample) were measured (Brookfield viscometer, No. 3, 12 rpm, 30° C.).
In addition, an expert panel evaluated the "hardness of the cosmetic (sample)", "non-stickiness" and "quickness of blending". Evaluation criteria are as follows.

<Evaluation Criteria>
"Hardness (jelly feeling)"
A: Appropriately firm enough to stand on the skin and has a tactile feel like a jelly.
B: Too hard and hard to come out of the container.
C: It is too soft to be removed from the container and does not stand on the skin.

"Non-sticky" and "Familiarization speed"
A+: Excellent A: Excellent B: Average C: Poor

As is clear from the results shown in Table 1, the skin cosmetics (Examples 1 to 3) of the present invention containing polyethylene glycol having an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide of 4 to 20 as the component (b) were excellent on the skin. It had a moderate hardness to the extent that it stood upright on the skin, and had a tactile feel like a jiggly jelly. On the other hand, Comparative Example 1, in which diglycerin was blended in place of the component (b) of the present invention, caused stickiness during drying of the cosmetic. Moreover, Comparative Examples 2 and 3, in which polyethylene glycol having an average degree of polymerization of ethylene oxide exceeding 20 was blended, were sticky and slow to absorb into the skin.

According to the results shown in Table 2, good results were obtained even when (c) the water-soluble polymer was changed from carboxyvinyl polymer to hydrophobically modified polyether urethane (Examples 4 to 6). On the other hand, in Comparative Example 4, in which the blending amount of (c) the water-soluble polymer was less than 0.15% by mass, the viscosity of the cosmetic did not reach 3,000 mPa·s, resulting in a soft cosmetic. As a result, it was difficult to take an appropriate amount from the container, and the base was not hard enough to stand on the skin. Conversely, in Comparative Example 5, in which the amount of carboxyvinyl polymer was large and the viscosity exceeded 10,000 mPa·s, the cosmetic was too hard and it was difficult to take out an appropriate amount from the container.

Other formulation examples of the skin cosmetic of the present invention are given below.
Formulation example 1
Display name Compounding amount (% by mass)
Ion-exchanged water Remainder ethyl alcohol 10
Dynamite glycerin 3.5
Dipropylene glycol 3
Acetylated sodium hyaluronate 0.0001
Sodium hyaluronate 0.0009
Polyethylene glycol 400 0.5
Polyoxyethylene (14) Polyoxypropylene (7) Dimethyl ether
1.5
(Dimethylacrylamide/Na acryloyldimethyltaurate) crosspolymer
0.2
POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyltetradecyl ether
0.1
Potassium hydroxide 0.04
Tranexamic acid 2
Glycylglycine 0.05
l-menthol 0.04
EDTA-2Na・2H ₂ O appropriate amount Sodium pyrosulfite appropriate amount Phenoxyethanol appropriate amount Perfume appropriate amount Total 100

Formulation example 2
Display name Compounding amount (% by mass)
Ion-exchanged water Remainder ethyl alcohol 10
Dynamite glycerin 3.5
Dipropylene glycol 3
Acetylated sodium hyaluronate 0.0001
Sodium hyaluronate 0.0009
Polyethylene glycol 400 0.5
Polyoxyethylene (14) Polyoxypropylene (7) Dimethyl ether
1.5
Acrylic acid/alkyl methacrylate copolymer 0.3
POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyltetradecyl ether
0.1
Potassium hydroxide 0.04
Tranexamic acid 2
Glycylglycine 0.05
l-menthol 0.04
EDTA-2Na・2H ₂ O appropriate amount Sodium pyrosulfite appropriate amount Phenoxyethanol appropriate amount Perfume appropriate amount Total 100

Formulation example 3
Display name Compounding amount (% by mass)
Ion-exchanged water Remainder ethyl alcohol 10
Dynamite glycerin 3.5
Dipropylene glycol 3
Acetylated sodium hyaluronate 0.0001
Sodium hyaluronate 0.0009
Polyethylene glycol 400 0.5
Polyoxyethylene (14) Polyoxypropylene (7) Dimethyl ether
1.5
(alkyl acrylate/steareth-20 methacrylate) copolymer
0.9
POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyltetradecyl ether
0.1
Potassium hydroxide 0.04
Tranexamic acid 2
Glycylglycine 0.05
l-menthol 0.04
Sodium lauryl sulfate Appropriate amount EDTA-2Na.2H ₂ O Appropriate amount Sodium pyrosulfite Appropriate amount Phenoxyethanol Appropriate amount Perfume Appropriate amount Total 100

Formulation example 4
Display name Compounding amount (% by mass)
Ion-exchanged water Remainder ethyl alcohol 10
Dynamite glycerin 3.5
Dipropylene glycol 3
Acetylated sodium hyaluronate 0.0001
Sodium hyaluronate 0.0009
Polyethylene glycol 400 1.5
Polyoxyethylene (14) Polyoxypropylene (7) Dimethyl ether
1.5
(PEG-240/decyltetradeceth-20/HDI) copolymer
1.5
POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyltetradecyl ether
0.1
4-Methoxysalicylic acid potassium salt 1
Glycylglycine 0.05
l-menthol 0.04
EDTA-2Na・2H ₂ O appropriate amount Sodium pyrosulfite appropriate amount Phenoxyethanol appropriate amount Perfume appropriate amount Total 100

Claims (4)

(a) a skin lightening agent selected from tranexamic acid and ascorbic acid glucoside;
(b) polyethylene glycol having an average degree of polymerization of 4-20 with 0.3-2% by weight of ethylene oxide;
(c) 0.15 wt% or more and 0.4 wt% or less of a carboxyvinyl polymer and 0.15 wt% or more and 5 wt% or less of a hydrophobically modified polyether urethane selected from a water-soluble polymer;
(d) 0.1 to 0.4% by mass of one or more selected from polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18-C28) ethers and polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil; and
(e) contains water;
A skin cosmetic having a viscosity of 3,000 to 10,000 mPa·s at 30°C.
The polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene alkyl (C18-C28) ether of (d) is POP (13) POE (24) 2-decyltetradecyl ether, and the polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil is PEG-60 hydrogenated castor. The skin cosmetic according to claim 1 , which is an oil. 3. The skin cosmetic according to claim 1 , further comprising (f) a moisturizing agent. 4. The skin cosmetic according to any one of claims 1 to 3 , further comprising (g) a cooling agent.