JP2013166709A - Aqueous cosmetic - Google Patents
Aqueous cosmetic Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- JP2013166709A JP2013166709A JP2012029219A JP2012029219A JP2013166709A JP 2013166709 A JP2013166709 A JP 2013166709A JP 2012029219 A JP2012029219 A JP 2012029219A JP 2012029219 A JP2012029219 A JP 2012029219A JP 2013166709 A JP2013166709 A JP 2013166709A
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- ceramide
- oil
- water
- component
- hydrolyzed collagen
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
Links
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 67
- 229940106189 ceramide Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 52
- 102000008186 Collagen Human genes 0.000 claims abstract description 36
- 108010035532 Collagen Proteins 0.000 claims abstract description 36
- 229920001436 collagen Polymers 0.000 claims abstract description 36
- 150000001783 ceramides Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 33
- YDNKGFDKKRUKPY-JHOUSYSJSA-N C16 ceramide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(=O)N[C@@H](CO)[C@H](O)C=CCCCCCCCCCCCCC YDNKGFDKKRUKPY-JHOUSYSJSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- CRJGESKKUOMBCT-VQTJNVASSA-N N-acetylsphinganine Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[C@@H](O)[C@H](CO)NC(C)=O CRJGESKKUOMBCT-VQTJNVASSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- ZVEQCJWYRWKARO-UHFFFAOYSA-N ceramide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(=O)NC(CO)C(O)C=CCCC=C(C)CCCCCCCCC ZVEQCJWYRWKARO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- VVGIYYKRAMHVLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N newbouldiamide Natural products CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC(O)C(O)C(O)C(CO)NC(=O)CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC VVGIYYKRAMHVLU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 16
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims abstract description 6
- -1 isostearoyl Chemical group 0.000 claims description 49
- RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCC RTZKZFJDLAIYFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 26
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 16
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 claims description 10
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- 229920001451 polypropylene glycol Polymers 0.000 claims description 6
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- 230000002123 temporal effect Effects 0.000 abstract 1
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 description 11
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 description 10
- UXFQFBNBSPQBJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol Chemical compound OCC(N)(C)CO UXFQFBNBSPQBJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 9
- LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ethanol Chemical compound CCO LFQSCWFLJHTTHZ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 8
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 description 8
- 229920003171 Poly (ethylene oxide) Polymers 0.000 description 7
- 238000002834 transmittance Methods 0.000 description 7
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 description 6
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 6
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- 238000000926 separation method Methods 0.000 description 6
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- 238000003860 storage Methods 0.000 description 5
- 101150035093 AMPD gene Proteins 0.000 description 4
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- 229910019142 PO4 Inorganic materials 0.000 description 3
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- 239000002253 acid Substances 0.000 description 3
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- 239000001913 cellulose Substances 0.000 description 3
- 229940044176 ceramide 3 Drugs 0.000 description 3
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- 239000010696 ester oil Substances 0.000 description 3
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- SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-methylpentane-2,4-diol Chemical compound CC(O)CC(C)(C)O SVTBMSDMJJWYQN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N D-Glucitol Natural products OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)CO FBPFZTCFMRRESA-FSIIMWSLSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- PNNNRSAQSRJVSB-SLPGGIOYSA-N Fucose Natural products C[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)C=O PNNNRSAQSRJVSB-SLPGGIOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 108010010803 Gelatin Proteins 0.000 description 2
- WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glutamic acid Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CCC(O)=O WHUUTDBJXJRKMK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycerine Chemical compound OCC(O)CO PEDCQBHIVMGVHV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- DHMQDGOQFOQNFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycine Chemical compound NCC(O)=O DHMQDGOQFOQNFH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- AEMRFAOFKBGASW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycolic acid Chemical compound OCC(O)=O AEMRFAOFKBGASW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 229920000663 Hydroxyethyl cellulose Polymers 0.000 description 2
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- SHZGCJCMOBCMKK-DHVFOXMCSA-N L-fucopyranose Chemical compound C[C@@H]1OC(O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H]1O SHZGCJCMOBCMKK-DHVFOXMCSA-N 0.000 description 2
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Landscapes
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
本発明は水性化粧料に関し、詳細には、保湿性、透明性、及び経時安定性に優れた水性化粧料に関する。 The present invention relates to an aqueous cosmetic, and more particularly to an aqueous cosmetic excellent in moisture retention, transparency, and stability over time.
近年、気候変動や都市部での環境悪化、食生活の変化や精神的なストレスなどの影響により、乾燥肌の人が多くなってきている。また、女性の就業率も高くなり長時間外で働くことも多くなってきている。こうした背景から、化粧料を塗布した後、潤いが長時間持続する化粧料を使用したいという要望が年々強まってきている。 In recent years, the number of people with dry skin has increased due to the effects of climate change, environmental deterioration in urban areas, changes in dietary habits, and mental stress. In addition, the employment rate of women is increasing, and the number of people working outside for a long time is increasing. Against this background, after applying cosmetics, the desire to use cosmetics that last for a long time is increasing.
潤い性に優れた成分として、セラミド及びその誘導体が注目され、種々の化粧料や皮膚製剤に使用されている。セラミドは油溶性であり、油性成分との親和性に優れるが、使用感がさっぱりとした水性化粧料に安定に配合することが困難であった。
セラミドの如き油溶性成分や潤い性に優れた油性成分などの如き水に難溶の成分を、軽い使用感の水性化粧料に使用するに際しては、種々の改良が試みられている。
例えば、水難溶性成分とともに、ポリグリセリン脂肪酸エステルとアシル化した加水分解蛋白質の塩を含有する透明ないし半透明化粧料が提案されている(例えば、特許文献1参照。)。
また、保湿性に優れる界面活性剤であるレシチンと保湿性に優れた水溶性多価アルコールとを含有する乳化化粧料が提案されている(例えば、特許文献2参照。)
Ceramide and its derivatives have attracted attention as ingredients with excellent moisturizing properties and are used in various cosmetics and skin preparations. Ceramide is oil-soluble and excellent in affinity with oil-based components, but it has been difficult to stably blend it in a water-based cosmetic with a refreshed use feeling.
Various improvements have been attempted when water-insoluble ingredients such as ceramides and oil-soluble ingredients such as ceramide and oily ingredients with excellent moisturizing properties are used in light-use water-based cosmetics.
For example, a transparent or translucent cosmetic containing a polyglycerin fatty acid ester and an acylated hydrolyzed protein salt together with a poorly water-soluble component has been proposed (see, for example, Patent Document 1).
In addition, an emulsified cosmetic containing lecithin, which is a surfactant excellent in moisture retention, and a water-soluble polyhydric alcohol excellent in moisture retention has been proposed (see, for example, Patent Document 2).
油性成分を水性化粧料に安定に保持させる方法としては、界面活性能を有する成分の添加量を多くして安定性を改善することが考えられるが、界面活性能を有する成分の含有量を増やすとベタつきなどの感触が悪化する懸念がある。 As a method of stably retaining the oily component in the aqueous cosmetic, it is conceivable to improve the stability by increasing the amount of the component having surface active ability, but the content of the component having surface active ability is increased. There is a concern that the feeling of stickiness will worsen.
既述の従来技術においては、水性化粧料に油性成分を安定に保持することが困難であり、とくに、透明性の高いローションのような水性化粧料や、粘度が高いもののさっぱりした使用感の水性ジェル状化粧料などに適用した場合、経時的に油性成分が分離したり、濁りが生じたりするといった問題があり、また、夏の外気など40℃以上の高い雰囲気温度では、より不安定になるために、長期間、或いは、温度条件の厳しい場合においても、水性化粧料のさっぱり感とセラミドの潤い感とが維持され、保存安定性に優れた水性化粧料が望まれていた。
以上のような状況に鑑みなされた本発明の目的は、潤い性に優れたセラミドなどを含有した、使用時のベタつきがなく、潤い感が良好であり、且つ、経時安定性が良好な水性化粧料を提供することにある。
In the prior art described above, it is difficult to stably retain the oil component in the aqueous cosmetic, and in particular, an aqueous cosmetic such as a highly transparent lotion, and a refreshing aqueous feel that has a high viscosity. When applied to gel cosmetics, there are problems such as separation of oily components over time and turbidity, and more instability at high ambient temperatures of 40 ° C. or higher such as summer outdoor air. For this reason, there has been a demand for an aqueous cosmetic material that maintains the refreshing feeling of the aqueous cosmetic material and the moist feeling of ceramide and is excellent in storage stability even when the temperature condition is severe for a long period of time.
An object of the present invention made in view of the above situation is an aqueous makeup containing ceramide having excellent moisturizing properties, having no stickiness at the time of use, good moisturizing feeling and good stability over time. Is to provide a fee.
上記事情を鑑み、本発明者等が鋭意検討を行った結果、特定の界面活性能を有する加水分解コラーゲン誘導体と、ポリアルキレングリセリルエーテルに代表される水溶性両親媒性成分とを併用することで、セラミドを含有し、外観が透明であり保存安定性に優れた水性化粧料が得られることを見出し、本発明を完成した。
すなわち、本発明の構成は、以下に示すとおりである。
[1] (A)セラミド及びセラミド類縁体から選ばれる化合物と、(B)油性成分と、
(C)加水分解コラーゲン及びその誘導体から選ばれた親水性界面活性剤と、(D)水溶性両親媒性成分と、を含有する透明水性化粧料である。
[2] さらに、(E)増粘剤を含有する[1]に記載の透明水性化粧料である。
[3] 前記(C)親水性界面活性剤が、ココイル加水分解コラーゲン、イソステアロイル加水分解コラーゲン、(ジヒドロキシメチルシリルプロポキシ)ヒドロキシプロピル加水分解コラーゲンから選ばれた加水分解コラーゲンの誘導体からなる群より選ばれた1種以上である[1]又は[2]に記載の透明水性化粧料である。
[4] 前記(D)水溶性両親媒性成分が、ポリプロピレングリコール−9ジグリセリル、ポリプロピレングリコール−14ジグリセリル及びポリオキシプロピレンポリグリセリルエーテルから選ばれたポリアルキレンポリグリセリルエーテルである [1]〜[3]のいずれか1項に記載の透明水性化粧料である。
In view of the above circumstances, as a result of intensive studies by the present inventors, a combined use of a hydrolyzed collagen derivative having a specific surfactant activity and a water-soluble amphiphilic component typified by polyalkylene glyceryl ether The present inventors have found that an aqueous cosmetic containing ceramide, having a transparent appearance and excellent storage stability can be obtained.
That is, the configuration of the present invention is as follows.
[1] (A) a compound selected from ceramide and a ceramide analog, (B) an oil component,
(C) A transparent aqueous cosmetic containing a hydrophilic surfactant selected from hydrolyzed collagen and derivatives thereof, and (D) a water-soluble amphiphilic component.
[2] The transparent aqueous cosmetic according to [1], further comprising (E) a thickener.
[3] The (C) hydrophilic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of hydrolyzed collagen derivatives selected from cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen, isostearoyl hydrolyzed collagen, and (dihydroxymethylsilylpropoxy) hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen. The transparent aqueous cosmetic composition according to [1] or [2], which is one or more of the above.
[4] The water-soluble amphiphilic component (D) is a polyalkylene polyglyceryl ether selected from polypropylene glycol-9 diglyceryl, polypropylene glycol-14 diglyceryl and polyoxypropylene polyglyceryl ether. [1] to [3 ] The transparent water-based cosmetics described in any one of the above.
本発明によれば、さっぱりした使用感触を有し、且つ、潤い感に優れ、且つ、高温などの厳しい環境下においても透明性が維持される、保存安定性に優れた透明水性化粧料を得ることができる。本発明の透明水性化粧料においては、水性媒体に、セラミドをはじめとする潤い感の高い油性成分が、微細な油滴として安定に分散されているために、目視による外観上は透明な化粧料となる。 According to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a transparent aqueous cosmetic composition having a refreshing feeling of use, excellent in moisture, and maintaining transparency even under severe environments such as high temperatures and excellent in storage stability. be able to. In the transparent aqueous cosmetic composition of the present invention, a highly moist oily component such as ceramide is stably dispersed as fine oil droplets in the aqueous medium. It becomes.
本発明によれば、潤い性に優れたセラミドなどを含有した、使用時のベタつきがなく、潤い感が良好であり、且つ、経時安定性が良好な透明水性化粧料を提供することができる。 According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a transparent aqueous cosmetic containing ceramide having excellent moisturizing properties, having no stickiness at the time of use, good moisturizing feeling, and good stability over time.
以下、本発明について詳細に説明する。
本発明の透明水性化粧料(以下、単に「化粧料」又は「本発明の化粧料」と称することがある)は、潤い成分としての(A)セラミド及びセラミド類縁体から選ばれる化合物(以下、適宜、セラミド類と称する)と、セラミド類を溶解させる媒体となる(B)油性成分と、油性成分の安定化に寄与する(C)加水分解コラーゲン及びその誘導体から選ばれた親水性界面活性剤と、(D)水溶性両親媒性成分と、を含有する水性化粧料である。
以下、それぞれの成分について説明する。
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The transparent aqueous cosmetic of the present invention (hereinafter sometimes simply referred to as “cosmetic” or “cosmetic of the present invention”) is a compound selected from (A) ceramide and a ceramide analog as a moisturizing component (hereinafter referred to as “the cosmetic”). (Referred to as ceramides as appropriate), (B) an oily component serving as a medium for dissolving ceramides, and (C) a hydrophilic surfactant selected from hydrolyzed collagen and its derivatives that contribute to the stabilization of the oily component And (D) a water-soluble amphiphilic component.
Hereinafter, each component will be described.
なお、本明細書では、「アクリル」、「メタクリル」のいずれか或いは双方を指す場合「(メタ)アクリル」と記載することがあり、「アクリレート」、「メタクリレート」のいずれか或いは双方を指す場合「(メタ)アクリレート」と記載することがある。 In this specification, when referring to either or both of “acryl” and “methacryl”, it may be described as “(meth) acryl”, and when referring to either or both of “acrylate” and “methacrylate” It may be described as “(meth) acrylate”.
(A)セラミド及びセラミド類縁体から選ばれる化合物
本発明に用いられるセラミド及びセラミド類縁体から選ばれる化合物としては、セラミドの基本構造を有するものであれば特に制限なく使用しうる。また、セラミド類は、天然セラミドであっても合成セラミドであってもよい。また、天然セラミドと化学的構造や性質が類似した、疑似セラミド等のセラミド類縁体であってもよい。
セラミド類は、スフィンゴ脂質の一種であり角質中に多く存在し、皮膚の保護機能やバリヤー機能の発現に深く関与している。また、肌荒れの保護や皮膚の老化防止等に効果があることが知られており、セラミド類の1種以上を化粧料に配合した場合は、肌に潤いを与え、しっとりとした潤い感が長期間持続する。
本発明に使用しうるセラミド類としては、例えば、セラミド1、セラミド2、セラミド3、セラミド4、セラミド5、セラミド6I、セラミド6IIなどが挙げられる。セラミド類のうち、天然セラミドとしては、通常、動物の革、脳、卵、血液細胞や、植物の小麦、米ぬか等からの抽出物やその誘導体を用いてもよい。また、合成セラミド、疑似セラミドとしては、例えば、特開2000−186030号公報や特開2000−186013号公報に開示されたものを使用してもよい。
なお、本明細書中における「セラミド類」とは、上記の天然セラミド、合成セラミド、疑似セラミドのみならず、それらの成分からの抽出物または誘導体を包含する意味で用いられる。
(A) Compound selected from ceramide and ceramide analog The compound selected from ceramide and ceramide analog used in the present invention can be used without particular limitation as long as it has a basic structure of ceramide. The ceramides may be natural ceramides or synthetic ceramides. Further, it may be a ceramide analogue such as pseudoceramide having a chemical structure and properties similar to those of natural ceramide.
Ceramides are a kind of sphingolipid, are present in large amounts in the keratin, and are deeply involved in the expression of skin protective functions and barrier functions. It is also known to be effective in protecting rough skin and preventing skin aging. When one or more ceramides are added to cosmetics, the skin is moisturized and moisturized. Lasts for a period.
Examples of ceramides that can be used in the present invention include ceramide 1, ceramide 2, ceramide 3, ceramide 4, ceramide 5, ceramide 6I, and ceramide 6II. Among the ceramides, natural ceramides may be usually extracted from animal leather, brain, eggs, blood cells, plant wheat, rice bran or the like or derivatives thereof. Moreover, as synthetic ceramide and pseudo-ceramide, for example, those disclosed in JP 2000-186030 A and JP 2000-186013 A may be used.
In the present specification, “ceramides” are used to include not only the above-mentioned natural ceramides, synthetic ceramides and pseudoceramides but also extracts or derivatives thereof.
また、セラミド類は、市販品を使用してもよく、例えば、N−ステアロイルフィトスフィンゴジン(日光ケミカルズ社製、「セラミドIII」)、N−ステアロイルスフィンガニン(クローダジャパン社製、「セラミドII」)、トリハイドロキシパルミタミドハイドロキシプロピル・ミリスチルエーテル(クローダジャパン社製「セラミド HO3」)、日本精化製「セラミドプレソーム」、さらには、グルタミン酸をエステル化してなるN−ラウロイル−L−グルタミン酸ジ(フィトステリル・ベヘニル・2−オクチルドデシル)(味の素社製「エルデュウ PS−304」)などが挙げられる。
これらのなかでも、セラミド2及びセラミド3から選ばれるセラミド類が効果の観点から好ましい。
As the ceramides, commercially available products may be used. For example, N-stearoylphytosphingodine (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals, “Ceramide III”), N-stearoyl sphinganine (manufactured by Croda Japan, “Ceramide II”). ”), Trihydroxypalmitamide hydroxypropyl myristyl ether (“ Ceramide HO3 ”manufactured by Croda Japan Co., Ltd.),“ Ceramide Presome ”manufactured by Nippon Seika Co., Ltd., and N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid obtained by esterifying glutamic acid Di (phytosteryl, behenyl, 2-octyldodecyl) (“El Dew PS-304” manufactured by Ajinomoto Co., Inc.) and the like can be mentioned.
Among these, ceramides selected from ceramide 2 and ceramide 3 are preferable from the viewpoint of effects.
セラミド類は、本発明の水性化粧料に1種のみを用いてもよく、2種以上を併用してもよい。
セラミド類の含有率は、本発明の水性化粧料全量に対して0.0001質量%〜0.5 質量%程度が好ましく、0.0005質量%〜0.3質量%の範囲であることが更に好ましく、0.0005質量%〜0.05質量%の範囲であることが最も好ましい。なお、2種以上のセラミド類を併用する場合には、上記配合率は、総含有量の配合比率を意味する。以下の各成分においても、含有量は、当該成分を複数種含む場合には、当該成分の総量を意味する。
Only one kind of ceramides may be used in the aqueous cosmetic composition of the present invention, or two or more kinds thereof may be used in combination.
The content of ceramides is preferably about 0.0001% by mass to 0.5% by mass, and more preferably in the range of 0.0005% by mass to 0.3% by mass with respect to the total amount of the aqueous cosmetic of the present invention. Preferably, the range is 0.0005% by mass to 0.05% by mass. In addition, when using together 2 or more types of ceramides, the said compounding ratio means the compounding ratio of total content. Also in the following each component, content means the total amount of the said component, when multiple types of the said component are included.
(B)油性成分
セラミド類を水性化粧料に安定に分散させ、さらに、潤い感を向上するために、本発明の化粧料には油性成分を含有する。
油性成分を含有することで、前記セラミド類は油性成分中に熔解されて油相を形成する。本発明における油性成分としては、特に制限はないが、常温(25℃)において液体の油性成分であることが好ましい。本発明に用いうる油性成分としては、常温で液状であり、化粧料に使用しうる油性成分であれば特に制限はなく、炭化水素油、エステル油、植物油、動物性油分、鉱物油、シリコーンオイルなどが挙げられ、肌への感触や潤い性を付与しうるという観点からは、炭化水素油、エステル油、及び植物油から選ばれる1種以上が好ましい。
植物油としては、例えば、アボガド油、ツバキ油、マカデミアナッツ油、トウモロコシ油、オリーブ油、ナタネ油、マ油、パーシック油、小麦胚芽油、サザンカ油、ヒマシ油、アマニ油、サフラワー油、綿実油、エノ油、大豆油、落花生油、茶実油、カヤ油、コメヌカ油、シナギリ油、日本キリ油、ホホバ油、及び胚芽油などが挙げられる。
動物性油分としては、例えば、スクワラン、タートル油、ミンク油、及び卵黄油などが挙げられる。
(B) Oil component In order to disperse | distribute ceramides stably to aqueous cosmetics, and also to improve a moist feeling, the cosmetics of this invention contain an oil component.
By containing an oil component, the ceramides are dissolved in the oil component to form an oil phase. Although there is no restriction | limiting in particular as an oil-based component in this invention, It is preferable that it is a liquid oil-based component at normal temperature (25 degreeC). The oily component that can be used in the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a liquid at room temperature and can be used in cosmetics. Hydrocarbon oil, ester oil, vegetable oil, animal oil, mineral oil, silicone oil From the viewpoint of imparting touch to the skin and moisturizing properties, one or more selected from hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, and vegetable oils are preferable.
Examples of vegetable oils include avocado oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, maize oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, eno oil , Soybean oil, peanut oil, tea seed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, snail oil, Japanese drill oil, jojoba oil, and germ oil.
Examples of animal oils include squalane, turtle oil, mink oil, and egg yolk oil.
エステル油としては、例えば、トリイソオクタン酸グリセリル、トリイソパルミチン酸グリセリル、イソパルミチン酸オクチル、イソステアリン酸イソプロピル、イソステアリン酸イソステアリル、イソステアリン酸イソセチル、イソステアリン酸ヘキシル、イソステアリン酸ミリスチル、オクタン酸イソセチル、イソオクタン酸セチル、オクタン酸イソステアリル、イソノナン酸イソデシル、ジメチルオクタン酸オクチルドデシル、ミリスチン酸オレイル、エルカ酸イソステアリル、ステアリン酸イソセチル、ステアリン酸オクチル、パルミチン酸イソステアリル、パルミチン酸イソセチル、パルミチン酸オクチル、ミリスチン酸イソステアリル、ミリスチン酸イソセチル、ミリスチン酸オクチルドデシル、ミリスチン酸デシル、パルミチン酸イソプロピル、ミリスチン酸イソプロピル、トリイソステアリン酸トリメチロールプロパン、ジカプリン酸ネオペンチルグリコール、セバシン酸ジオクチル、12−ステアロイルオキシステアリン酸オクチルドデシル、ステアロイルグルタミン酸ジオクチルドデシル、アジピン酸ジオクチル、リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル、乳酸オクチルドデシル、乳酸イソステアリル、パラジメチルアミノ安息香酸オクチルなどが挙げられる。 Examples of ester oils include glyceryl triisooctanoate, glyceryl triisopalmitate, octyl isopalmitate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isocetyl isostearate, hexyl isostearate, myristyl isostearate, isocetyl octanoate, isooctanoic acid Cetyl, isostearyl octoate, isodecyl isononanoate, octyldodecyl dimethyloctanoate, oleyl myristate, isostearyl erucate, isocetyl stearate, octyl stearate, isostearyl palmitate, isocetyl palmitate, octyl palmitate, isomyristate myristate Stearyl, isocetyl myristate, octyldodecyl myristate, decyl myristate, palmiti Isopropyl acid, isopropyl myristate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, dioctyl sebacate, octyldodecyl 12-stearoyloxystearate, dioctyldecyl stearoylglutamate, dioctyl adipate, diisostearyl malate, octyl lactate Examples include dodecyl, isostearyl lactate, and octyl paradimethylaminobenzoate.
また、炭化水素油としては、流動パラフィン、イソパラフィン、α−オレフィンオリゴマー、ポリブテン、2−オクチルドデカノール、イソステアリルアルコール、オレイルアルコール、ホホバアルコール、エライジルアルコール、リノレイルアルコール、リノレニルアルコール、イソステアリン酸、オレイン酸、リノール酸、リノレン酸、2−オクチルドデカン酸などが挙げられる。
シリコーンオイルとしては、例えば、デカメチルテトラシロキサン、ドデカメチルペンタシロキサン、テトラデカメチルヘキサシロキサン、ヘキサデカメチルヘプタシロキサンなどのジメチルポリシロキサン類;
オクタメチルシクロテトラシロキサン、デカメチルシクロペンタシロキサン、ドデカメチルシクロヘキサシロキサン、テトラデカメチルシクロヘプタシロキサンなどの環状ポリシロキサン類;
メチルフェニルポリシロキサンなどが挙げられる。
Hydrocarbon oils include liquid paraffin, isoparaffin, α-olefin oligomer, polybutene, 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, jojoba alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearin. Examples include acids, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, 2-octyldodecanoic acid and the like.
Examples of the silicone oil include dimethylpolysiloxanes such as decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, tetradecamethylhexasiloxane, and hexadecamethylheptasiloxane;
Cyclic polysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, tetradecamethylcycloheptasiloxane;
Examples include methylphenyl polysiloxane.
これらのなかでも、セラミドとの親和性及び潤い性の観点から、高級アルコールが好ましく、より具体的には、イソステアリルアルコール、オレイルアルコール、ホホバアルコールなどが好ましい。
これらは単独で用いることも2種以上を配合することもできる。
Among these, higher alcohols are preferable from the viewpoint of affinity with ceramide and moisturizing properties, and more specifically, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, jojoba alcohol, and the like are preferable.
These can be used alone or in combination of two or more.
本発明で用いられる油性成分の含有率は、化粧料全成分に対し、0.001質量%〜5.0質量%の範囲で用いるのが好ましく、さらに好ましくは0.005質量%〜3.0質量%の範囲である。 The content of the oily component used in the present invention is preferably in the range of 0.001% by mass to 5.0% by mass, more preferably 0.005% by mass to 3.0%, with respect to all cosmetic ingredients. It is the range of mass%.
(C)加水分解コラーゲン及びその誘導体から選ばれた親水性界面活性剤
本発明の水性化粧料には、加水分解コラーゲン及びその誘導体から選ばれた親水性界面活性剤(以下、適宜、特定親水性界面活性剤と称する)を含有する。特定親水性界面活性剤を含有することでセラミド類の可溶性が向上する。
特定親水性界面活性剤としては、分子内に加水分解コラーゲン構造を含むものであれば特に制限はなく、コラーゲンを加水分解して得られたペプチドとその誘導体から選ばれ、原料コラーゲンとしては、天然物に由来するものであることが好ましい。
原料コラーゲンとしては、牛、豚等の家畜の皮及び骨、魚類の皮、骨及び鱗、海綿などから得られたゼラチンなどを用いることができ、これを加水分解した加水分解コラーゲン、及び、該加水分解コラーゲンに対し、アシル化、シリル化、エステル化などの化学修飾を行った加水分解コラーゲン誘導体などが好適に使用される。誘導体としては、加水分解コラーゲンの塩の形態をとることが好ましい。
より具体的には、ココイル加水分解コラーゲン塩、イソステアロイル加水分解コラーゲン塩、ウンデシレノイル加水分解コラーゲン塩、(ジヒドロキシメチルシリルプロポキシ)ヒドロキシプロピル加水分解コラーゲン塩などが挙げられ、塩としては、ナトリウム塩、カリウム塩、アミノメチルプロパノール、アミノメチルプロパンジオールなどが好ましく挙げられる。なかでも、界面活性能にすぐれ、セラミド類の安定性に寄与するという観点からは、ココイル加水分解コラーゲンカリウム塩、イソステアロイル加水分解コラーゲンアミノメチルプロパンジオール等が好ましく、イソステアロイル加水分解コラーゲンアミノメチルプロパンジオールがより好ましい。
(C) Hydrophilic surfactant selected from hydrolyzed collagen and derivatives thereof The aqueous cosmetic composition of the present invention includes a hydrophilic surfactant selected from hydrolyzed collagen and derivatives thereof (hereinafter referred to as specific hydrophilicity as appropriate). (Referred to as a surfactant). The solubility of ceramides improves by containing a specific hydrophilic surfactant.
The specific hydrophilic surfactant is not particularly limited as long as it contains a hydrolyzed collagen structure in the molecule, and is selected from peptides obtained by hydrolyzing collagen and derivatives thereof. It is preferable that it originates in a thing.
As the raw material collagen, it is possible to use gelatin obtained from skin and bones of livestock such as cows and pigs, skins of fish, bones and scales, sponges, etc., hydrolyzed collagen obtained by hydrolyzing this, and the Hydrolyzed collagen derivatives obtained by chemically modifying hydrolyzed collagen such as acylation, silylation, and esterification are preferably used. The derivative is preferably in the form of a salt of hydrolyzed collagen.
More specifically, cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen salt, isostearoyl hydrolyzed collagen salt, undecylenoyl hydrolyzed collagen salt, (dihydroxymethylsilylpropoxy) hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen salt, and the like include sodium salt, potassium Preferred examples include salts, aminomethyl propanol and aminomethyl propanediol. Of these, cocoyl hydrolyzed collagen potassium salt, isostearoyl hydrolyzed collagen aminomethylpropane diol, and the like are preferable from the viewpoint of excellent surface activity and contribution to the stability of ceramides. Isostearoyl hydrolyzed collagen aminomethylpropane Diols are more preferred.
特定親水性界面活性剤は、市販品としても入手可能であり、例えば、海洋性コラーゲンの加水分解物及びその誘導体としては、プロモイスEUCP(商品名、成和化成(株):アシル化物)、プロモイスEU−118D(商品名、成和化成(株)、イソステアロイル加水分解コラーゲンアミノメチルプロパンジオール、アシル化物)、プロモイスWU−32SIG(商品名、成和化成(株):アミノメチルプロパンジオールジヒドロキシメチルシリルプロポキシ)ヒドロキシプロピル加水分解コラーゲン、シリル化物)などが挙げられ、なかでも、プロモイスEU−118Dが好ましい。 The specific hydrophilic surfactant is also available as a commercial product. For example, as a hydrolyzate of marine collagen and derivatives thereof, Promois EUCP (trade name, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd .: acylated product), Promois EU-118D (trade name, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd., isostearoyl hydrolyzed collagen aminomethylpropanediol, acylated product), Promois WU-32SIG (trade name, Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd .: aminomethylpropanediol dihydroxymethylsilyl) Propoxy) hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen, silylated product) and the like, and among them, Promois EU-118D is preferable.
特定親水性界面活性剤は、1種のみを用いてもよく、2種以上を併用してもよい。
特定親水性界面活性剤の含有率は、本発明の化粧料全量に対して0.2質量%〜10.0質量%程度が好ましく、特には0.2質量%〜7.0質量%の範囲が好ましい。
Only 1 type may be used for a specific hydrophilic surfactant, and 2 or more types may be used together.
The content of the specific hydrophilic surfactant is preferably about 0.2% by mass to 10.0% by mass, particularly in the range of 0.2% by mass to 7.0% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic of the present invention. Is preferred.
(D)水溶性両親媒性成分
本発明の水性化粧料に(D)水溶性両親媒性成分を含有することで、セラミド類を含む油性成分の系中での安定性が向上する。
本発明に用いうる水溶性両親媒性成分としては、ポリアルキレンポリグリセリルエーテル、特にポリオキシプロピレン付加ポリグリセリルエーテルが好ましく、より具体的には、が、ポリプロピレングリコール−9ジグリセリル、ポリプロピレングリコール−14ジグリセリル及びポリオキシプロピレンポリグリセリルエーテルなどが挙げられる。(D)成分においては、オキシプロピレンの付加モル数、及びグリセリンの付加数のうち、少なくともいずれかを制御することで親油性、親水性のバランスを制御できるが、効果の観点からはオキシプロピレンの付加モル数は4、9、14,18及び24のポリオキシプロピレンポリグリセリルエーテルが好ましく挙げられる。また、グリセリルエーテルの付加数は2〜20の範囲であることが好ましい。
(D) Water-soluble amphiphilic component By containing the water-soluble amphiphilic component (D) in the aqueous cosmetic composition of the present invention, the stability of the oil-based component containing ceramides in the system is improved.
The water-soluble amphiphilic component that can be used in the present invention is preferably a polyalkylene polyglyceryl ether, particularly polyoxypropylene-added polyglyceryl ether, and more specifically, polypropylene glycol-9 diglyceryl, polypropylene glycol-14 diglyceryl. And polyoxypropylene polyglyceryl ether. In component (D), the balance between lipophilicity and hydrophilicity can be controlled by controlling at least one of the number of moles of oxypropylene added and the number of glycerins added. Preference is given to polyoxypropylene polyglyceryl ethers having 4, 9, 14, 18 and 24 added moles. Moreover, it is preferable that the addition number of glyceryl ether is the range of 2-20.
水溶性両親媒性成分は市販品としても入手可能であり、例えば、SC−P400(商品名、阪本薬品工業(株);POP(4)ポリグリセリルエーテル:分子量:400、SC−P750(商品名、阪本薬品工業(株)(株);POP(9)ポリグリセリルエーテル 分子量:750)、SC−P1000(商品名、阪本薬品工業(株)(株):POP(14)ポリグリセリルエーテル 分子量:1000)、SC−P1200(商品名、阪本薬品工業(株)(株):POP(18)ポリグリセリルエーテル 1200)、SC−P1600(商品名、阪本薬品工業(株)(株):POP(24)ポリグリセリルエーテル 重量平均分子量:1600)などが挙げられる。なお、( )内の数値は、それぞれPOPの付加モル数を示す。 The water-soluble amphiphilic component is also available as a commercial product. For example, SC-P400 (trade name, Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd .; POP (4) polyglyceryl ether: molecular weight: 400, SC-P750 (trade name, Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd .; POP (9) polyglyceryl ether, molecular weight: 750), SC-P1000 (trade name, Sakamoto Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd .: POP (14) polyglyceryl ether, molecular weight: 1000), SC -P1200 (trade name, Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd .: POP (18) polyglyceryl ether 1200), SC-P1600 (brand name, Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co., Ltd.): POP (24) polyglyceryl ether Weight average (Molecular weight: 1600) etc. The numbers in parentheses indicate the number of moles of POP added.
水溶性両親媒性成分は、1種のみを用いてもよく、2種以上を併用してもよい。
水溶性両親媒性成分の含有率は、本発明の化粧料全量に対して0.2質量%〜4.0質量%程度が好ましく、特には0.1質量%〜5.0質量%の範囲が好ましい。
Only one type of water-soluble amphiphilic component may be used, or two or more types may be used in combination.
The content of the water-soluble amphiphilic component is preferably about 0.2% by mass to 4.0% by mass, and particularly 0.1% by mass to 5.0% by mass with respect to the total amount of the cosmetic of the present invention. Is preferred.
本発明の油中水型乳化化粧料は、前記(A)成分〜(D)成分に加え、媒体としての水及びその他の水性成分を含有する。
本発明の化粧料に含まれる水は不純物を含まないことが好ましいため、イオン交換水や純粋を用いることが好ましい。水の含有量は、本発明の化粧料の好ましい剤形に応じて適宜選択される。
The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic of the present invention contains water as a medium and other aqueous components in addition to the components (A) to (D).
Since the water contained in the cosmetic of the present invention preferably does not contain impurities, it is preferable to use ion-exchanged water or pure water. The water content is appropriately selected according to the preferred dosage form of the cosmetic of the present invention.
(E)増粘剤
本発明の水性化粧料を、透明ジェル状化粧料やマッサージクリームとして用いる場合には、さらに(F)増粘剤を加えてもよい。
増粘剤としては、化粧料に用いられる公知の増粘剤であれば特に制限なくし要することができる。
増粘剤としては水溶性増粘剤が好ましく、具体的には、例えば、アラビアガム、トラガントガム、ガラクタン、グアガム、キャロブガム、カラヤガム、ジェランガム、カラギーナン等の植物系高分子;
キサンタンガム、デキストラン、サクシノグルカン、プルラン、バイオヒアルロン酸ナトリウム等の微生物系高分子;
コラーゲン、カゼイン、アルブミン、ゼラチン等の動物系高分子;
カルボキシメチルデンプン、メチルヒドロキシプロピルデンプン等のデンプン系高分子;
メチルセルロース、エチルセルロース、メチルヒドロキシプロピルセルロース、ヒドロキシエチルセルロース、セルロース硫酸ナトリウム、ヒドロキシプロピルセルロース、カルボキシメチルセルロースナトリウム、結晶セルロース等のセルロース系高分子;
アルギン酸ナトリウム、アルギン酸プロピレングリコールエステル等のアルギン酸系高分子;
ポリビニルアルコール、ポリビニルアセテート、ポリビニルメチルエーテル、ポリビニルピロリドン、ビニルピロリドンとビニルアセテート共重合物、カルボキシビニルポリマー等のビニル系高分子;
ポリアクリル酸ナトリウム、ポリエチルアクリレート、ポリアクリル酸アルカノールアミン、アルキルメタクリレートとジメチルアミノエチルメタクリレート共重合物、ポリ2−アクリルアミド−2−メチルプロパンスルホン酸、ポリメタクリロイルオキシトリメチルアンモニウムなどのアクリル系高分子;
2−メタクリロイルオキシエチルホスホリルコリンをモノマーとして含む高分子;
などが挙げられる。
なかでも、使用感の観点から、カルボキシビニルポリマー、カルボキシメチルセルロース、カラギーナン、マルメロなどが好ましい。
増粘剤の含有率は、化粧料の必要となれる粘度に応じて適宜選択される。
(E) Thickener When the aqueous cosmetic of the present invention is used as a transparent gel cosmetic or a massage cream, (F) a thickener may be further added.
As the thickener, any known thickener used in cosmetics can be used without particular limitation.
As the thickener, a water-soluble thickener is preferable. Specifically, for example, a plant polymer such as gum arabic, gum tragacanth, galactan, guar gum, carob gum, caraya gum, gellan gum, carrageenan;
Microbial polymers such as xanthan gum, dextran, succinoglucan, pullulan, sodium biohyaluronate;
Animal macromolecules such as collagen, casein, albumin, gelatin;
Starch-based polymers such as carboxymethyl starch and methylhydroxypropyl starch;
Cellulose polymers such as methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, methylhydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, hydroxypropylcellulose, sodium carboxymethylcellulose, crystalline cellulose;
Alginate polymers such as sodium alginate, propylene glycol alginate;
Vinyl polymers such as polyvinyl alcohol, polyvinyl acetate, polyvinyl methyl ether, polyvinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl acetate copolymer, carboxy vinyl polymer;
Acrylic polymers such as sodium polyacrylate, polyethyl acrylate, alkanolamine polyacrylate, alkyl methacrylate and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymer, poly-2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, polymethacryloyloxytrimethylammonium;
A polymer comprising 2-methacryloyloxyethyl phosphorylcholine as a monomer;
Etc.
Of these, carboxyvinyl polymer, carboxymethylcellulose, carrageenan, quince and the like are preferable from the viewpoint of the feeling of use.
The content of the thickener is appropriately selected according to the viscosity required for the cosmetic.
〔その他の成分〕
本発明の水性化粧料は、媒体として水を多く含むため、水性媒体に可溶な成分を、本発明の効果を損なわない限りにおいて、目的に応じて併用してもよい。
水と併用可能な成分としては水と相溶性を有するもの、水に溶解或いは均一に分散しうるものであれば特に制限はなく、水性の有機溶媒、各種水溶性、及び水分散性の有効成分などを併用してもよい。
所望により水相に添加される成分としては、例えば、エタノール、プロパノール、イソプロパノール、イソブチルアルコール、t−ブチルアルコールなどの1価アルコール;
アミノカプロン酸、クエン酸、乳酸、グリコール酸、酒石酸などのα−ヒドロキシ酸およびこれらのナトリウム、カリウム等の塩;
アスコルビン酸、ピロ亜硫酸ナトリウムなどの酸化防止剤;
メチルパラベン、デヒドロ酢酸ナトリウム、安息香酸ナトリウム、フェノキシエタノールなどの防腐剤;
サリチル酸、エデト酸、メタリン酸などのキレート剤
胎盤抽出物、ニコチン酸アミド、パントテニールエチルエーテル、パントテン酸、グリチルリチン酸ジカリウム、ビオチン、ピリドキシン塩酸塩、アデノシン三リン酸、α−リポ酸、ローヤルゼリー、3−O−エチルアスコルビン酸、アスコルビン酸リン酸マグネシウム、アスコルビン酸グルコシド、アルブチン、グルコシルヘスペリジン、グルコシルルチンなどの薬剤;
などが挙げられる。
[Other ingredients]
Since the aqueous cosmetic composition of the present invention contains a large amount of water as a medium, components that are soluble in the aqueous medium may be used in accordance with the purpose as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.
The component that can be used in combination with water is not particularly limited as long as it is compatible with water, or can be dissolved or uniformly dispersed in water, and is an aqueous organic solvent, various water-soluble, and water-dispersible active ingredients. Etc. may be used in combination.
Examples of the component added to the aqueous phase as desired include monohydric alcohols such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, isobutyl alcohol, and t-butyl alcohol;
Α-hydroxy acids such as aminocaproic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, glycolic acid and tartaric acid and salts thereof such as sodium and potassium;
Antioxidants such as ascorbic acid and sodium pyrosulfite;
Preservatives such as methylparaben, sodium dehydroacetate, sodium benzoate, phenoxyethanol;
Chelating agent placental extract such as salicylic acid, edetic acid, metaphosphoric acid, nicotinic acid amide, pantotenyl ethyl ether, pantothenic acid, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, biotin, pyridoxine hydrochloride, adenosine triphosphate, α-lipoic acid, royal jelly, 3 Drugs such as -O-ethylascorbic acid, magnesium ascorbate phosphate, glucoside ascorbate, arbutin, glucosyl hesperidin, glucosyl rutin;
Etc.
また、セラミド類以外の保湿剤を併用してもよい。
本発明の化粧料に用いられる保湿剤としては、化粧料に用いられる公知の保湿剤であれば、特に制限はなく、例えば、プロピレングリコール、1,3−プロパンジオール、1,2−ブチレングリコール、1,3−ブチレングリコール、1,2−ペンタンジオール、ヘキシレングリコール、グリセリン、トリメチロールプロパンなどの多価アルコール、ジプロピレングリコール、ポリプロピレングリコール、ポリエチレングリコール、ジグリセリン、トリグリセリン、テトラグリセリン、ポリグリセリンなどの多価アルコール重合体、ジプロピレングリコールエチルエーテル、ポリオキシブチレン(以下、POB)ポリオキシエチレン(以下、POE)ポリオキシプロピレン(以下、POP)グリセリルエーテル、POEジグリセリルエーテルなどの多価アルコール誘導体、エリトロース、エリトルロース、トレオース、デオキシリボース、リキソース、アラビノース、リボース、リブロース、キシルロース、グルコース、タロース、プシコース、ガラクトース、マンノース、タガトース、フコース、フクロース、ラムノース、セドヘブツロース、スクロース、マルトース、ツラノース、セロビオース、ラクトース、トレハロース、ラフィノース、メレジトース、マルトトリオース、アカルボース、スタキオース、フラクトオリゴ糖、ガラクトオリゴ糖、マンナンオリゴ糖、デキストリンなどの糖類、エリトリトール、アラビニトール、キシリトール、ソルビトール、マルチトール、マンニトール、ダルシトールなどの糖アルコール、グルコシルトレハロース、アスコルビン酸グルコシド、POEメチルグルコシド、POPメチルグルコシド、ヒドロキシプロピル−β−シクロデキストリンなどの糖誘導体、ソルビトールリン酸エステル、キシリトールリン酸エステル、POEマルチトールなどの糖アルコール誘導体、グリシン、トレオニン、アラニン、チロシン、バリン、ロイシン、アルギニン、リジン、プロリン、アスパラギン酸、グルタミン酸、セリン、ヒドロキシプロリンなどのアミノ酸およびこれらの誘導体、ピロリドンカルボン酸ナトリウム等のピロリドンカルボン酸塩、コンドロイチン硫酸ナトリウム、ヒアルロン酸ナトリウム、ベタイン、尿素、POE・POPジメチルエーテルなどが挙げられる。単独で用いることも2種以上を配合することもできる。
これらの保湿剤のなかでも、水溶性の保湿剤が安定性の観点から好ましい。
保湿剤には、特に制限はなく、本発明の化粧料の目的や、併用される成分との親和性などを考慮して適宜選択して用いればよい。
保湿剤の含有率としては、化粧料に用いられる全成分に対し、2質量%〜30質量%の範囲であることが好ましい。
Moreover, you may use together moisturizers other than ceramides.
The humectant used in the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited as long as it is a known humectant used in cosmetics. For example, propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butylene glycol, Polyhydric alcohols such as 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, trimethylolpropane, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, diglycerin, triglycerin, tetraglycerin, polyglycerin Polyhydric alcohol polymer such as dipropylene glycol ethyl ether, polyoxybutylene (hereinafter POB) polyoxyethylene (hereinafter POE) polyoxypropylene (hereinafter POP) glyceryl ether, POE diglyceryl ether Which polyhydric alcohol derivative, erythrose, erythrulose, threose, deoxyribose, lyxose, arabinose, ribose, ribulose, xylulose, glucose, talose, psicose, galactose, mannose, tagatose, fucose, fucose, rhamnose, sedhebutulose, sucrose, maltose, tulanose , Cellobiose, lactose, trehalose, raffinose, melezitose, maltotriose, acarbose, stachyose, fructooligosaccharides, saccharides such as galactooligosaccharide, mannan oligosaccharide, dextrin, erythritol, arabinitol, xylitol, sorbitol, maltitol, mannitol, dulcitol, etc. Sugar alcohol, glucosyl trehalose, glucoscorbate , Sugar derivatives such as POE methyl glucoside, POP methyl glucoside, hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin, sorbitol phosphate ester, xylitol phosphate ester, sugar alcohol derivative such as POE maltitol, glycine, threonine, alanine, tyrosine, valine Amino acids such as leucine, arginine, lysine, proline, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, serine, hydroxyproline and derivatives thereof, pyrrolidone carboxylates such as sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate, sodium chondroitin sulfate, sodium hyaluronate, betaine, urea, POE -POP dimethyl ether etc. are mentioned. It can be used alone or in combination of two or more.
Among these humectants, a water-soluble humectant is preferable from the viewpoint of stability.
The moisturizing agent is not particularly limited, and may be appropriately selected and used in consideration of the purpose of the cosmetic of the present invention and the affinity with components used in combination.
As a content rate of a moisturizer, it is preferable that it is the range of 2 mass%-30 mass% with respect to all the components used for cosmetics.
また、目的に応じて、油溶性の成分なども少量であれば、添加してもよい。油溶性の成分としては、例えば、エチルパラベン、プロピルパラベンなどの防腐剤、油溶性の紫外線吸収剤などが挙げられる。
油溶性紫外線吸収剤として、例えば、メトキシ桂皮酸オクチル、メトキシ桂皮酸ブチル、メトキシ桂皮酸イソプロピル、トリメトキシ桂皮酸メチルビス(トリメチルシロキシ)シリルイソペンチル、ジパラメトキシ桂皮酸モノ−2−エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル、4−tert−ブチル−4’−メトキシジベンゾイルメタン、2,4,6−トリス[4−(2−エチルヘキシルオキシカルボニル)アニリノ]1,3,5−トリアジン、ヒドロキシメトキシベンゾフェノンスルホン酸ナトリウム、サリチル酸オクチル、サリチル酸ホモメンチル、メチルベンジリデンカンファー、2−シアノ−3,3−ジフェニルプロパ−2−エン酸−2−エチルへキシルエステル、2,4−ビス{[4−(2−エチルヘキシルオキシ)−2−ヒドロキシ]フェニル}−6−(4−メトキシフェニル)1,3,5−トリアジン、2,2’−メチレン−ビス{6−(2H−ベンゾトリアゾール−2−イル)−4−(1,1,3,3−テトラメチルブチル)フェノール}などが挙げられる。
また、香料、色素などを含有してもよい。
Depending on the purpose, oil-soluble components and the like may be added as long as they are in a small amount. Examples of the oil-soluble component include antiseptics such as ethyl paraben and propyl paraben, and oil-soluble ultraviolet absorbers.
Examples of the oil-soluble ultraviolet absorber include octyl methoxycinnamate, butyl methoxycinnamate, isopropyl methoxycinnamate, methylbis (trimethylsiloxy) silylisopentyl trimethoxycinnamate, glyceryl di-2-methoxycinnamate mono-2-ethylhexanoate, 4- tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane, 2,4,6-tris [4- (2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl) anilino] 1,3,5-triazine, sodium hydroxymethoxybenzophenonesulfonate, octyl salicylate, salicylic acid Homomenthyl, methylbenzylidene camphor, 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylprop-2-enoic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester, 2,4-bis {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl } -6- (4-Methoxyphenyl) 1,3,5-triazine, 2,2′-methylene-bis {6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3) -Tetramethylbutyl) phenol} and the like.
Moreover, you may contain a fragrance | flavor, a pigment | dye, etc.
本発明の水性化粧料は通常用いられている方法で製造することができる。
製造方法としては、水に水溶性の各種成分を添加した水相成分と、セラミド類と油性成分を加熱、溶解、混合してなる油相成分とを調整し、これらを混合、攪拌して調製する方法が挙げられ、これが最も簡便な製造方法である。しかしながら、本発明の化粧料の製造方法は、一般的な乳化装置による調製法には限定されず、目的とする品質特性値等によって適宜決定すればよい。なお、ここで、加熱、溶解、混合する方法としては、セラミド類が油性成分に均一に混合する条件で加熱、混合すればよく、油性成分を加熱した中にセラミド類を添加する、セラミド類を油性成分との混合物を攪拌しながら加熱するなど、いずれの方法をとってもよい。
The aqueous cosmetic of the present invention can be produced by a commonly used method.
The production method is prepared by adjusting an aqueous phase component obtained by adding various water-soluble components to water, and an oil phase component obtained by heating, dissolving, and mixing ceramides and an oil component, and mixing and stirring them. This is the simplest manufacturing method. However, the method for producing the cosmetic of the present invention is not limited to a preparation method using a general emulsifying apparatus, and may be appropriately determined depending on the intended quality characteristic value and the like. Here, as a method of heating, dissolving, and mixing, it is sufficient to heat and mix under the condition that the ceramide is uniformly mixed with the oil component, and the ceramide is added by adding the ceramide while the oil component is heated. Any method may be employed such as heating the mixture with the oil component while stirring.
本発明の化粧料は、セラミドに起因する潤い感を有しながらもさっぱりとした使用感を有し、常温はもとより、40℃を超える高温雰囲気下であっても長時間に亘り透明な外観が維持され、経時安定性に優れるローション又はジェルであり、特に化粧料(医薬部外品)として好適に使用することができる。 The cosmetic of the present invention has a refreshing feeling while having a moist feeling due to ceramide, and has a transparent appearance over a long period of time not only at room temperature but also in a high temperature atmosphere exceeding 40 ° C. It is a lotion or gel that is maintained and has excellent stability over time, and can be suitably used particularly as a cosmetic (quasi-drug).
以下に実施例を挙げて本発明をさらに具体的に説明する。以下の実施例に示す材料、使用量、割合、処理内容、処理手順等は、本発明の趣旨を逸脱しない限り、適宜、変更することができる。従って、本発明の範囲は以下に示す具体例に限定されるものではない。 The present invention will be described more specifically with reference to the following examples. The materials, amounts used, ratios, processing details, processing procedures, and the like shown in the following examples can be changed as appropriate without departing from the spirit of the present invention. Therefore, the scope of the present invention is not limited to the specific examples shown below.
〔実施例1、比較例1〜3〕
下記表1に記載の処方に従い、まず、No.6と7とを混合し、90℃に加熱し溶解したものへNo.1、2、4、8を加え、35℃にて15分間攪拌、混合攪拌する。
これを、別容器にて、秤量し添加したその他の成分中に加え、35℃にて15分間攪拌して透明ローションを得た。
[Example 1, Comparative Examples 1-3]
In accordance with the prescription described in Table 1 below, No. 6 and 7 were mixed and heated to 90 ° C. and dissolved. Add 1, 2, 4, 8 and stir at 35 ° C. for 15 minutes and mix and stir.
This was weighed in another container and added to the other components added and stirred at 35 ° C. for 15 minutes to obtain a transparent lotion.
なお、下記表1における各成分の詳細は以下の通りである。
6)イソステアリルアルコール(高級アルコール工業製、商品名:イソステアリルアルコール EX)
7)セラミド2(高砂香料社製、商品名:Celamido TIC−001)
9)POE(60モル付加)硬化ヒマシ油(日光ケミカルズ社製、商品名:NIKKOL−HCO−60)
In addition, the detail of each component in following Table 1 is as follows.
6) Isostearyl alcohol (made by Higher Alcohol Industry, trade name: Isostearyl alcohol EX)
7) Ceramide 2 (trade name: Celamido TIC-001, manufactured by Takasago Inc.)
9) POE (60 mol addition) hydrogenated castor oil (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals, trade name: NIKKOL-HCO-60)
次に、得られた透明ローションを、以下に記載の評価方法及び評価基準で評価した。結果を下記表1に併記する。
(1)長期安定性
0℃、室温、50℃の各温度条件下に1ヶ月間保存後、目視により乳化化粧料の分離などの外観変化の有無を確認し、以下の基準にて評価した。なお、◎及び○と評価されたものは実用上充分な安定性を示すものである。
◎:各温度で外観変化、粘度変化、分離等の異常は全く認められない。
○:50℃で保存の場合、僅かに外観変化、粘度変化、分離等の異常が認められる。
△:40℃及び50℃で保存の場合、外観変化、粘度変化、分離等の異常が認められる。
×:いずれの温度下でも、外観変化、粘度変化、分離等の異常が認められる。
(2)透明性
透明性は分光光度計(島津紫外可視分光光度計 UV−1800、島津製作所、光路長10mm)を用いて測定し、コントロールとして精製水の透過率を100とした時の透過率で評価した。透過率が90から100の範囲にあるものが本発明の透明に相当する。
◎:透過率95以上〜100(透明領域)
○:透過率90以上〜95未満(半透明〜透明領域)
△:透過率60以上〜90未満(半透明領域)
×:透過率60未満(白濁領域)
Next, the obtained transparent lotion was evaluated by the evaluation methods and evaluation criteria described below. The results are also shown in Table 1 below.
(1) Long-term stability After storage for 1 month under each temperature condition of 0 ° C., room temperature, and 50 ° C., the presence or absence of changes in appearance such as separation of emulsified cosmetics was visually confirmed and evaluated according to the following criteria. In addition, what was evaluated as (double-circle) and (circle) shows stability sufficient practically.
A: No abnormality such as appearance change, viscosity change, separation, etc. is observed at each temperature.
○: When stored at 50 ° C., slight abnormalities such as changes in appearance, changes in viscosity, and separation are observed.
Δ: Abnormalities such as change in appearance, change in viscosity, separation, etc. are observed when stored at 40 ° C. and 50 ° C.
X: Abnormalities such as changes in appearance, changes in viscosity, and separation are observed at any temperature.
(2) Transparency Transparency is measured using a spectrophotometer (Shimadzu UV-visible spectrophotometer UV-1800, Shimadzu Corporation, optical path length 10 mm), and the transmittance when the transmittance of purified water is 100 as a control. It was evaluated with. Those having a transmittance in the range of 90 to 100 correspond to the transparency of the present invention.
A: Transmittance of 95 to 100 (transparent region)
○: Transmittance of 90 to less than 95 (translucent to transparent region)
Δ: Transmittance of 60 to less than 90 (translucent region)
×: Transmittance less than 60 (cloudy region)
(3)使用性
女性パネル12名に、化粧料を使用してもらい、使用感について官能評価してもらい、次の基準に従って評価した。
〔潤い感〕
◎:潤い感が非常に優れると評価したパネルが10名以上
○:潤い感が非常に優れると評価したパネルが6〜9名
△:潤い感が非常に優れると評価したパネルが4〜5名
×:潤い感が非常に優れると評価したパネルが3名以下
〔さっぱり感〕
◎:皮膚への塗布時にべたつきがなく、使用感がさっぱりしていると評価したパネルが10名以上
○:皮膚への塗布時にべたつきがなく、使用感がさっぱりしていると評価したパネルが6〜9名
△:皮膚への塗布時にべたつきがなく、使用感がさっぱりしていると評価したパネルが4〜5名
×:皮膚への塗布時にべたつきがなく、使用感がさっぱりしていると評価したパネルが3名以下
(3) Usability Twelve female panels were asked to use cosmetics and have a sensory evaluation of the feeling of use, and evaluated according to the following criteria.
[Moisture feeling]
◎: 10 or more panels evaluated as having a very good moist feeling ○: 6 to 9 panels evaluated as having a very good moist feeling Δ: 4 to 5 panels evaluated as having a very excellent moist feeling ×: 3 or less panel evaluated as having a very good moist feeling [fresh feeling]
◎: More than 10 panelists evaluated that there was no stickiness when applied to the skin and the feeling of use was refreshing ○: 6 panels evaluated that there was no stickiness when applied to the skin and the feeling of use was refreshed ~ 9 people △: No stickiness when applied to the skin and 4-5 people evaluated that the feeling of use is refreshing ×: No stickiness when applied to the skin and evaluated that the feeling of use is refreshing Less than 3 panels
表1の結果よりに示したように、本発明で得られる実施例1のローションは、安定性が良好で、潤い感、さっぱりした使用感を有する水性ローションであることがわかる。
他方、本発明にかかる(C)特定親水性界面活性剤及び(D)水溶性両親媒性成分のいずれかを含まない比較例1〜3では、透明性及び保存安定性に劣ることがわかる。
As shown in the results of Table 1, it can be seen that the lotion of Example 1 obtained in the present invention is an aqueous lotion having good stability, moist feeling and refreshing feeling of use.
On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 1-3 which do not contain either (C) specific hydrophilic surfactant and (D) water-soluble amphiphilic component concerning this invention, it turns out that it is inferior to transparency and storage stability.
〔実施例2、比較例4〜5〕
下記表2に記載の処方に従い、実施例1と同様の方法にて調整し、透明ジェルを得た。
なお、下記表2における各成分の詳細は以下の通りである。
6)イソステアリルアルコール(高級アルコール工業製、商品名:イソステアリルアルコール EX)
7)月見草油(日清オイリオ社製)
9)セラミド2(高砂香料社製、商品名:Celamido TIC−001)
10)イソステアロイル加水分解コラーゲンAMPD(AMPD:アミノメチルプロパンジオール)(成和化成社製、商品名:プロモイス EU−118D)
12)カルボキシビニルポリマー(和光純薬社製、商品名:ハイビスワコー 105)
[Example 2, Comparative Examples 4 to 5]
According to the prescription described in Table 2 below, a transparent gel was obtained by adjusting in the same manner as in Example 1.
In addition, the detail of each component in following Table 2 is as follows.
6) Isostearyl alcohol (made by Higher Alcohol Industry, trade name: Isostearyl alcohol EX)
7) Evening primrose oil (Nisshin Oilio Co., Ltd.)
9) Ceramide 2 (trade name: Celamido TIC-001, manufactured by Takasago Inc.)
10) Isostearoyl hydrolyzed collagen AMPD (AMPD: aminomethylpropanediol) (manufactured by Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd., trade name: Promois EU-118D)
12) Carboxyvinyl polymer (trade name: Hibiswako 105, manufactured by Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd.)
表2に示したように、本発明に係る実施例2の透明ジェルは安定性が良好で、使用時の潤い感、さっぱり感に優れた化粧料であることがわかる。他方、(D)水溶性両親媒性成分を含有しない比較例4及び5は、製造直後は透明であったが、経時により濁りが生じ、安定性に劣り、さっぱり感はあるものの、潤い感も不十分であった。
〔実施例3〕
下記表3に記載の処方に従い、実施例1と同様の方法にて調整し、透明美白エッセンスを得た。
なお、下記表2における各成分の詳細は以下の通りである。
6)イソステアリルアルコール(高級アルコール工業製、商品名:イソステアリルアルコール EX)
9)セラミド3(Evonic Goldschemidt GmbH製、商品名:Ceramido III)
10)イソステアロイル加水分解コラーゲンAMPD(AMPD:アミノメチルプロパンジオール)(成和化成社製、商品名:プロモイス EU−118D)
11)カルボキシビニルポリマー(和光純薬社製、商品名:ハイビスワコー 105)
12)ヒドロキシエチルセルロース(和光純薬社製)
As shown in Table 2, it can be seen that the transparent gel of Example 2 according to the present invention is a cosmetic having excellent stability and excellent moist feeling and refreshing feeling during use. On the other hand, (D) Comparative Examples 4 and 5 which do not contain a water-soluble amphiphilic component were transparent immediately after production, but turbidity occurred with time, resulting in poor stability and a refreshing feeling, but also a moist feeling. It was insufficient.
Example 3
According to the prescription described in Table 3 below, a transparent whitening essence was obtained by the same method as in Example 1.
In addition, the detail of each component in following Table 2 is as follows.
6) Isostearyl alcohol (made by Higher Alcohol Industry, trade name: Isostearyl alcohol EX)
9) Ceramide 3 (Evonic Goldschmidt GmbH, trade name: Ceramido III)
10) Isostearoyl hydrolyzed collagen AMPD (AMPD: aminomethylpropanediol) (manufactured by Seiwa Kasei Co., Ltd., trade name: Promois EU-118D)
11) Carboxyvinyl polymer (manufactured by Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd., trade name: Hibiswako 105)
12) Hydroxyethyl cellulose (manufactured by Wako Pure Chemical Industries, Ltd.)
表3に示したように、本発明に係る実施例3の透明美白エッセンスは安定性が良好で、使用時の潤い感、さっぱり感に優れた化粧料であることがわかる。このように、増粘剤を用いたジェル状の化粧料であっても、本発明によれば、優れた透明性とさっぱりした使用感の化粧料を提供しうることが確認された。 As shown in Table 3, it can be seen that the transparent whitening essence of Example 3 according to the present invention has a good stability, and is a cosmetic excellent in moisture and refreshing feeling during use. Thus, even if it was the gel-like cosmetics using a thickener, according to this invention, it was confirmed that the cosmetics of the outstanding transparency and the refreshing feeling of use can be provided.
Claims (4)
(B)油性成分と、
(C)加水分解コラーゲン及びその誘導体から選ばれた親水性界面活性剤と、
(D)水溶性両親媒性成分と、を
含有する透明水性化粧料。 (A) a compound selected from ceramide and a ceramide analog;
(B) an oily component;
(C) a hydrophilic surfactant selected from hydrolyzed collagen and derivatives thereof;
(D) A transparent aqueous cosmetic containing a water-soluble amphiphilic component.
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JP2018131409A (en) * | 2017-02-15 | 2018-08-23 | クラシエホームプロダクツ株式会社 | Cosmetic |
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