JP6301611B2 - Composition for cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a composition for imparting water retention to a cosmetic used for skin, scalp, and hair.

The effect of preventing moisture transpiration from the skin, scalp, and hair to retain moisture and make it soft is called the emollient effect. The ideal emollient is sebum itself that forms a sebum film on the skin surface and protects moisture. Therefore, various fats and oils are used for cosmetics as a component which provides an emollient effect. In particular, a “hydrating oil” that can absorb (hydrate) a large amount of water is blended for the purpose of imparting moisture retention or emollient properties.
As the emollient, various oily substances that extend smoothly on the skin surface and have high skin occlusive properties are suitable. Various natural fats and oils, fatty acid esters, lanolin and its derivatives, aliphatic higher alcohols, hydrocarbons, phospholipids, fatty acids, etc. are used. By using different types and amounts depending on the skin quality and season used A product having an appropriate emollient effect (emulsion-type emollient lotion or cream-like emollient cream) is produced (Patent Documents 1, 2, etc.).

JP 2006-241038 A JP 2011-195509 A

  It is an object of the present invention to provide a highly versatile composition that has higher water holding property than a conventionally known emollient and can be easily used as a component of various cosmetics.

The present inventors have found that the water-holding property is remarkably increased by combining specific components among cholesterol and cholesterol fatty acid esters known to be used as water-holding agents, and have completed the present invention. .
The gist of the present invention is the compositions (1) to (6) and cosmetics or external preparations.
(1) A composition having water repellency containing fatty acid sterol ester and sterol in a weight ratio of 98: 2 to 80:20.
(2) The composition according to (1), wherein the fatty acid sterol ester is cholesteryl oleate.
(3) The composition according to (1) or (2), wherein the sterol is cholesterol.
(4) A cosmetic or external preparation containing the composition according to any one of (1) to (3).
(5) The cosmetic or external preparation according to (4), wherein the cosmetic or external preparation is an emulsion.
(6) The cosmetic or external preparation according to (4) or (5), containing 0.1 to 5% by weight of any one of the compositions (1) to (3).

  The composition of the present invention has a high water holding property of 500% or more, is white and has no odor, is solid at room temperature, and melts easily at 44 to 47 ° C. Moreover, the emulsion stability of the cosmetics to which the present composition is added is also high. Therefore, it can be used for various cosmetics as a highly versatile component that can impart water repellency simply by adding.

FIG. 1 is an optical microscope (100 ×) photograph observing the state of oil droplets immediately after production of a cosmetic model to which each sample of Example 2 was added. FIG. 2 is a photograph showing an emulsified state 3 days after production of a cosmetic model (without thickener) to which each sample of Example 2 was added.

The present invention is a composition having water repellency containing fatty acid sterol ester and sterol in a weight ratio of 98: 2 to 80:20. More preferably, the composition contains fatty acid sterol ester and sterol in a weight ratio of 98: 3 to 83:17.
Having water repellency means having a property of holding water, and preferably has water holding power of 100% or more, that is, water that can hold water of its own weight or more. More preferably, it has a water holding power of 300% or more, particularly preferably 500% or more.
In the present invention, fatty acid sterol ester is an ester of sterol and fatty acid. Specifically, cholesterol fatty acid esters such as cholesteryl oleate, cholesteryl isostearate, cholesteryl stearate, lanolin fatty acid cholesteryl, hydroxy stearate cholesteryl, ricinoleate cholesteryl, macadamia nut oil fatty acid cholesteryl, oleic acid phytosteryl, stearate phytosteryl, lanolin fatty acid Examples include phytosterol fatty acid esters such as phytosteryl, phytosteryl isostearate, phytosteryl hydroxystearate, phytosteryl ricinoleate, and macadamia nut oil fatty acid phytosteryl. Cholesteryl oleate is particularly preferred. Cholesteryl oleate produced using fish oil-derived cholesterol as a raw material is also preferred from the viewpoint of safety.
In the present invention, examples of the sterol include cholesterol, cholestanol, dehydrocholesterol, phytosterol, phytostenol, dehydrophytosterol and the like. Cholesterol is particularly preferred. In particular, fish oil-derived cholesterol is preferred from the viewpoint of safety.

  Fatty acid sterol ester and sterol can be uniformly mixed by heating and dissolving. For example, cholesterol and cholesteryl oleate can be easily dissolved and mixed when heated to 80 ° C.

The component of the present invention may be used in combination with other components that are said to have water retention.
Examples of such water-holding oil include esters such as propylene glycol monoalkyl ester, dipropylene glycol monoalkyl ester, trimethylolpropane dialkyl ester, erythritol trialkyl ester, tetraglycerin pentaalkyl ester, and amino acid ester. And dioctyldodecyl lauroylglutamate, di-N-lauroyl-L-glutamate (cholesteryl behenyl octyldodecyl), di-N-lauroyl-L-glutamate (phytosteryl behenyl octyldodecyl), N-lauroyl-L-glutamate di Amino acid ester oils such as (phytosteryl, 2-octyldodecyl), pentaerythritol such as tetra (behenic acid / benzoic acid / ethylhexanoic acid) pentaerythritol Glycerol fatty acid ester oils such as lithol benzoate oil, glyceryl diisostearate and glyceryl triisostearate, polyglycerin fatty acids such as diglyceryl triisostearate and tetraglyceryl pentastearate, and (adipic acid 2-ethylhexane Acid / stearic acid) glyceryl oligoester, (12-hydroxystearic acid / stearic acid / rosinic acid) dipentaerythritol, (12-hydroxystearic acid / isostearic acid) dipentaerythritol, etc. It is done.

The composition of this invention can use the composition containing fatty acid sterol ester and sterol as a component of various cosmetics and external preparations. In the case of a general emulsion type cosmetic, it is appropriate to add 0.1 to 5% by weight. Preferably it is 0.5 to 3 weight%, Most preferably, it is 0.5 to 1.5 weight%.
Cosmetics are preferably water-based gel cosmetics and oil-in-water cosmetics, such as aqueous gels, milky lotions, creams, lotions, packs, liquid foundations, lipsticks, eyeliners, mascaras, cosmetics, sunscreen cosmetics, etc. Is done.

Other oil phase components of the cosmetics to which the composition of the present invention is added are not particularly limited, but for example, non-polar oils such as hydrocarbon oils and silicone oils that are usually blended in cosmetics, monoester oils, etc. Examples include low polar oils.
Examples of the hydrocarbon oil include liquid paraffin, ozokerite, squalane, pristane, paraffin, ceresin, squalene, petrolatum, microcrystalline wax, and the like.

  Examples of the silicone oil include chain polysiloxanes (for example, dimethylpolysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane, diphenylpolysiloxane, etc.); cyclic polysiloxanes (for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexyl). Silicone resins, silicone rubber, various modified polysiloxanes (amino-modified polysiloxane, polyether-modified polysiloxane, alkyl-modified polysiloxane, fluorine-modified polysiloxane, etc.), acrylic silicone And the like.

Monoester oils include isopropyl myristate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, myristyl myristate, decyl oleate, hexyl decyl dimethyloctanoate, cetyl lactate, myristyl lactate , Isocetyl stearate, isocetyl isostearate, orange luffy oil and the like.
Other ester oils such as tetra-2-ethylhexanoic acid pentaerythritol, triethylhexanoin (glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate), dineopentanoic acid tripropylene glycol, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, diethylhexyl succinate, etc. It may be used.

  Moreover, in this invention, an oil-soluble ultraviolet absorber can be mix | blended as an oil phase component. Examples of such UV absorbers include octocrylene, octylmethoxycinnamate, 4-tert-butyl-4′-methoxybenzoylmethane (t-butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane), methylenebisbenzotriazolyltetramethylbutylphenol, bisethylhexyloxy. Phenolmethoxyphenyltriazine, diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, ethylhexyltriazone, phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid, dimethicone diethylbenzalmanoate, diethylhexylbutamide triazone, 2- [4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2- Hydroxyphenyl] -2H-benzotriazole and the like.

  The aqueous phase of the cosmetic to which the composition of the present invention is added is not particularly limited as long as it contains water or an aqueous solvent as a main medium. In the aqueous phase, in addition to water or an aqueous solvent, components usually used in cosmetics may be blended in a blending amount that does not affect the stability.

  For example, powder can be added to the aqueous phase in order to improve the feeling of use and the beauty of the finish within a range that does not impair the stability. A hydrophilic powder is suitable as the powder to be blended. Examples thereof include silica, mica, talc, sericite, kaolin, synthetic fluorine phlogopite, and dicalcium phosphate. Examples of the organic resin powder have been subjected to a hydrophilic treatment, and organic resin powder into which a hydrophilic group has been introduced.

Further, for example, a lower alcohol or a polyhydric alcohol may be blended within a range not impairing the stability.
Examples of the lower alcohol include ethanol, methanol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, and t-butanol.
Examples of the polyhydric alcohol include divalent alcohols (for example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, trimethylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, tetramethylene glycol, 2,3-butylene glycol, Pentamethylene glycol, 2-butene-1,4-diol, hexylene glycol, octylene glycol, etc.); trivalent alcohol (eg, glycerin, trimethylolpropane, etc.); tetravalent alcohol (eg, 1, 2, 6) -Pentaerythritol such as hexanetriol; pentavalent alcohol (eg, xylitol, etc.); hexavalent alcohol (eg, sorbitol, mannitol, etc.); polyhydric alcohol polymer (eg, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tri Tylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, diglycerin, polyethylene glycol, triglycerin, tetraglycerin, polyglycerin, etc.); divalent alcohol alkyl ethers (for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether, ethylene glycol) Monobutyl ether, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether (phenoxyethanol), ethylene glycol monohexyl ether, ethylene glycol mono 2-methylhexyl ether, ethylene glycol isoamyl ether, ethylene glycol benzyl ether, ethylene glycol isopropyl ether, ethylene glycol dimethyl ether, ethylene glycol diethyl ether , Et Dihydric alcohol alkyl ethers (for example, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol dimethyl ether, diethylene glycol diethyl ether, diethylene glycol butyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, Triethylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, propylene glycol monobutyl ether, propylene glycol isopropyl ether, dipropylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol ethyl ether Ter, dipropylene glycol butyl ether, etc.); dihydric alcohol ether ester (for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monobutyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol monophenyl ether acetate, ethylene glycol didibate, ethylene Glycol disuccinate, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, diethylene glycol monobutyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monoethyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monopropyl ether acetate, propylene glycol monophenyl ether acetate, etc.); glycerin Noalkyl ether (for example, xyl alcohol, ceralkyl alcohol, batyl alcohol, etc.); saccharide (for example, sorbitol, maltitol, maltotriose, mannitol, sucrose, glucosamine, N-acetylglucosamine, erythritol, glucose, fructose, starch Decomposed sugar, maltose, xylitol, starch-reducing alcohol, etc.); glycolide; tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol; POE-tetrahydrofurfuryl alcohol, POP-butyl ether; POP / POE-butyl ether; tripolyoxypropylene glycerin ether; Examples include glycerin ether; POP-glycerin ether phosphoric acid; POP · POE-pentaneerythritol ether, polyglycerin and the like.
In general, it is known that lower alcohols remarkably reduce the temporal stability of the emulsion composition in many cases.

Moreover, in this invention, it is suitable to mix | blend a thickener with an aqueous phase further. In particular, by adding carboxyvinyl polymer, succinoglycan, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, and xanthan gum, the stability of the emulsified particles over time is further improved. As a compounding quantity of a thickener, 0.1-3 mass% is preferable with respect to the composition whole quantity. If the amount is less than 0.1% by mass, the emulsion stability may not be improved sufficiently. If the amount exceeds 3% by mass, the feeling of use may be deteriorated, for example, warping may occur.
In addition, although the compounding quantity as a water phase component with respect to the oil-in-water type emulsion cosmetic concerning this invention is not restrict | limited in particular, Usually, it is about 20-90 mass%.

  In addition, the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic according to the present invention includes various components usually used in cosmetics in addition to the above essential components, such as humectants, other ultraviolet absorbers, organic powders, and pH adjusters. , Neutralizers, antioxidants, antiseptics, antibacterial agents, drugs, plant extracts, fragrances, pigments, and the like can be blended within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.

  Examples of the moisturizing agent include polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin, 1,3-butylene glycol, xylitol, sorbitol, maltitol, chondroitin sulfate, hyaluronic acid, mucoitin sulfate, caronic acid, atelocollagen, sodium lactate, bile salt, dl-pyrrolidone carboxylate, alkylene oxide derivative, short-chain soluble collagen, diglycerin ethylene oxide / propylene oxide adduct, Izayobara extract, yarrow extract, mellote extract, amino acid, nucleic acid, elastin and other proteins, hyaluronic acid And mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate.

  In addition, the other UV absorbers include benzoic acid derivative UV absorbers such as paraaminobenzoic acid, anthranilic acid derivative UV absorbers such as methyl anthranilate, salicylic acid derivatives such as octyl salicylate, phenyl salicylate, and homomenthyl salicylate. UV absorber, dibenzoylmethane derivative UV absorber, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone, 2,2 ', 4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, 2- Hydroxy -Benzophenone derivative ultraviolet absorbers such as methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonate, diphenyl acrylate derivative ultraviolet absorbers, benzotriazole derivative ultraviolet absorbers, triazine derivative ultraviolet absorbers such as ethylhexyltriazine, 3- (4 ' -Methylbenzylidene) -3-penten-2-one and other benzylidene camphor derivative UV absorbers, phenylbenzimidazole derivative UV absorbers, octylcinnamate, ethyl-4-isopropylcinnamate, ethyl-2,4-diisopropyl Cinnamate, methyl-2,4-diisopropylcinnamate, propyl-p-methoxycinnamate, isopropyl-p-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl-p-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethoxyethyl-p- Cinnamic acid UV absorbers such as toxicinnamate, cyclohexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, ethyl-α-cyano-β-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl-α-cyano-β-phenylcinnamate, 2,2 UV absorption of benzotriazole derivatives such as' -dihydroxy-5-methylbenzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy-tert-octylphenyl) benzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole Agent, benzalmalonate derivative UV absorber such as polysilicone 15, urocanic acid, urocanic acid ethyl ester, 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole, 2- (2′-hydroxy-5′-methylphenyl) benzo Triazole, 2- (2-hydroxy-4-isobu Kishifeniru) -2H- benzotriazole, Jibenzarajin, Ziani benzoyl methane, Mexoryl the like.

Examples of the organic powder include nylon powder, polyethylene powder, polymethylsilsesquioxane powder, (dimethicone / vinyl dimethicone) crosspolymer powder, and acrylic resin powder.
Examples of the pH adjuster include lactic acid, citric acid, sodium citrate, glycolic acid, succinic acid, tartaric acid, dl-malic acid, potassium carbonate, sodium hydrogen carbonate, ammonium hydrogen carbonate and the like.
Examples of antiseptics and antibacterial agents include α-tocopherol, phenoxyethanol, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, carboxylic acid, sorbic acid, parachloromethcresol, hexachlorophene, benzalkonium chloride, chlorhexidine chloride, trichlorocarbanilide, and photosensitizer. It is done.

The composition of the present invention can be widely applied to cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, and quasi drugs applied to the outer skin. Moreover, the product form is also arbitrary, and can be, for example, lotion, milky lotion, cream, emulsified foundation, emulsified sunscreen, and the like.
The composition of the present invention can be used by mixing with other oily components in the cosmetic.

  Examples of the present invention will be described below, but the present invention is not limited thereto.

Physical property evaluation of a composition containing cholesteryl oleate and cholesterol <Preparation of cholesteryl oleate>
Fish oil-derived cholesterol (manufactured by Nihon Suisan Co., Ltd.) and oleic acid (extracted and refined from vegetable oils such as palm and palm oil / oleic acid purity of 75% or more), fish oil-derived cholesterol 40-50%, oleic acid 50%- Mixing at a rate of 60%, after ester reaction at a temperature of 200 to 250 ° C and reaction time of 5 to 8 hours, perform molecular distillation at a temperature of 170 to 250 ° C and a degree of vacuum of 0.005 to 0.01 mmHg, and decolorize and filter using clay. Cholesteryl oleate was obtained by cooling after a deodorizing treatment for 1 to 2 hours at a temperature of 150 to 200 ° C. and a degree of vacuum of 20 Torr or less.
<Sample preparation>
A mixture in which cholesteryl oleate (OMC) and cholesterol (C) were mixed at the ratio shown in Table 1 was prepared. Mixing of OMC and C was performed by dissolving and stirring in a warm bath at 80 ° C. In addition, other fatty acid sterol esters shown in Table 2 were also tested.

<Water retention test>
Test method (refer to British Pharmacopoeia lanolin moisture content test method)
About 5 g of a sample is weighed and heated in a 50-60 ° C. water bath, and water with the same temperature is gradually added while stirring until water is drained from the sample. “Draining” refers to a state where water is not retained when the container is tilted and flows out. Measure the maximum weight at which water does not drain, and divide this value by the sample weight and multiply it by 100 to obtain the water retention rate (100% means that water equal to its own weight was hydrated) . The stability was stored at room temperature for 6 months, and it was judged whether or not water separation was observed. In Table 3, ○ means no separation, Δ means separation, and × means separation on the first day.

The results are shown in Table 3. OMC alone showed almost no hydration and was substantially 0%. Cholesterol (C) does not hold water alone. As C was added, water retention appeared more than 0.2% addition, with 1% being 300% or more and 2% or more being 500% or more. The prepared hydrated substance appeared unstable with no gloss or smoothness when added below 1%. On the other hand, when the addition was 2% or more, the stability was high, and water was not removed even after storage at room temperature for 6 months. Cholesteryl stearate (SC) alone did not exhibit water repellency, but when 5% C was added, 120% water repellency was exhibited and the effect of C addition was observed. Macadamia nut fatty acid phytosteryl (MFP) alone was 353%, but its ability to retain water was not so strong, water separation began 5 hours after the adjustment, and clear water separation was observed in 8 hours.
From the above results, it was confirmed that the mixture of cholesteryl oleate and cholesterol (OMC-C) was excellent in water retention and high in stability. It was confirmed that the effect was exerted by adding 2% or more of C to OMC.

Evaluation of formulation suitability by model formulation: Emulsification stability Add 1% of OMC-C (OMC-C0, OMC-C1, OMC-C3, OMC-C15) samples with 4 formulation ratios to the cosmetic model formulation in Table 4. The emulsion was stored for 3 months under the conditions of 50, 40, 25, 5 ° C or a cycle in which 5 ° C and 40 ° C were changed every 12 hours, and the emulsion stability evaluation was examined. In addition, the thing which does not add OMC-C was produced and used as a control.
In the evaluation, the oil droplet diameter of the emulsion and the presence / absence of aggregation (crystallization) were observed with an optical microscope. The emulsion stability was also observed visually.

Observing the oil droplet diameter immediately after production of the cosmetic model with each sample added, as shown in Fig. 1, there was no effect on the shape and size of the oil droplets in the OMC-C0 and OMC-C1 added cosmetics. . On the other hand, in the cosmetics to which OMC-C3 and OMC-C15 were added, the oil droplet diameter was clearly reduced, and particularly in OMC-C15, the oil droplet diameter was very fine. Therefore, from the viewpoint of the stability of the emulsion, a composition in which C is added to OMC at 3% or more, particularly 15% or more is preferable.
After 3 months of storage, no significant separation was observed as a whole, but changes in properties such as aggregation and crystallization were observed. In cosmetics to which OMC-C0, OMC-C1, and OMC-C3 were added, the oil droplet size tended to increase when stored at 5 ° C. OMC-C3 had a small oil droplet size at the time of preparation, but became the same size as OMC-C0 and OMC-C1 during storage at 25, 40 and 50 ° C. OMC-C15 did not change the oil droplet size during storage.

  Table 5 shows the presence or absence of agglomeration (crystallization) in microscopic observation of the state of oil droplets. The degree of aggregation was evaluated in four grades:-, ±, +, 2+. When OMC was added, aggregation occurred at 5 ° C, 40 ° C, etc., but could be reduced by adding 3% or more of C.

  FIG. 2 is a photograph of a sample prepared by removing the thickener (carbopol) from the composition of Table 4 so that the separation of oil and water becomes clear. When each cosmetic model was visually observed after storage at room temperature for 3 days, the oil content was separated in the control, OMC-C0 and OMC-C1 added cosmetics, and the emulsification could not be maintained. On the other hand, the cosmetics to which OMC-C3 and OMC-C15 were added maintained the emulsified state, and particularly OMC-C15 showed high emulsification stability. The emulsified liquid of FIG. 2 is opaque when emulsification is maintained, and when the emulsified state is broken and water and oil are separated, the triple line in the background of the sample bottle can be seen through. KC, K0, K1, K3, and K15 are cosmetic models with no OMC and OMC-C0, OMC-C1, OMC-C3, and OMC-C15, respectively.

From the above results, it is effective to add 3% or more of cholesterol. In particular, at 15%, almost no emulsification state or aggregation is observed, and very high emulsification stability can be maintained.
Furthermore, OMC-C20 (OMC: C = 80: 20) and OMC-C30 (OMC: C = 70:30), which were adjusted to 20% and 30%, were evaluated for their suitability. The model showed white turbidity at the time of addition and could not be emulsified with OMC-C30.
Therefore, the content of C with respect to OMC is preferably about 3 to 20%. If such a composition is an emulsion type cosmetic, it is preferably blended in an amount of 0.5 to 1.5% by weight.

  The composition of the present invention can provide a composition having an unexpected water retention property by combining known components in a certain ratio. By blending as a component of any cosmetic, water repellency can be imparted to the cosmetic.

Claims (3)

  A composition for imparting water repellency, comprising fatty acid cholesteryl and cholesterol having a ratio of oleic acid in a fatty acid of 75% or more and a weight ratio of 98: 2 to 80:20. A cosmetic or external preparation containing 0.1 to 5% by weight of the composition of claim 1. (However, the case where other fatty acid sterol ester and / or sterol is included is excluded.) The cosmetic or external preparation according to claim 2, wherein the cosmetic or external preparation is an emulsion.