FR2977157A1 - Composition, useful e.g. for treating, caring and/or making up of keratin materials, preferably skin, comprises hyaluronic acid, carrageenan gum, and diol e.g. 1,3-propanediol - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprises (a) hyaluronic acid and/or its salts, (b) one or more carrageenan gum, and (c) one or more 2-10C diol. ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

B11-2334EN 1 Cosmetic composition comprising hyaluronic acid, a carrageenan gum and a particular diol. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising hyaluronic acid, a carrageenan gum and a particular diol. The present invention also relates to a process for cosmetic treatment of keratin materials using such a composition, as well as a cosmetic use of said composition, in particular for the care of the skin. We know that the skin tends to dry out due to environmental factors (pollution, wind, cold, air conditioning), psychological (fatigue, stress) or hormonal (menopause). However, it is important that the skin is well hydrated and does not lose water, which can wilt and dry the skin. Also, it is common to incorporate in the cosmetic compositions moisturizing agents which are in particular hygroscopic substances which cause rehydration of the skin by capturing atmospheric water and by retention of water in the skin, and in particular mucopolysaccharides like hyaluronic acid or its sodium salt. In addition, consumers are increasingly looking for care products of the "serum" type, which are concentrated care products with a light and not very rich texture. In order to facilitate the use and packaging (for example in dropper pipettes, pump bottles) of this type of product, these must have a suitable viscosity, which must be neither too fluid (in particular not to pour during the setting and application) nor too thick (so that the product is easily delivered, and easy to spread).

To thicken the cosmetic compositions and adjust their viscosity to the desired consistency, the formulators generally use synthetic polymers (eg acrylic polymers) stabilizing emulsions and texturizing agents.

However, synthetic polymers, although very effective, are likely to have an irritating potential, especially in people with sensitive or reactive skin. In addition, in recent years the cosmetic market is marked by a very strong demand for formulations containing ingredients of natural origin. Consumers want formulations that are free of chemicals and prefer ingredients of natural origin known for their better tolerance and skin affinity. "Natural compound" means a compound that is obtained directly from the soil or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as, for example, grinding. , refining, distillation, purification or filtration. By compound "of natural origin" is meant a natural compound having undergone one or more chemical or industrial treatments annexes, causing changes not affecting the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound comprising predominantly natural constituents having or not undergone transformations, as indicated above.

By way of non-limiting example of an adjunct chemical or industrial treatment resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those authorized by the control bodies such as Ecocert (reference system for organic cosmetics and January 2003) or defined in recognized textbooks in the field, such as "Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine", 2005, Vol. 120, 9:10. As alternatives to so-called synthetic gelling agents, polymers of natural origin such as xanthan, cellulose polymers, guar gum or starch are known, but these compounds alone do not make it possible to obtain compositions which are both gelled. , stable, transparent and having a satisfactory cosmetic feel. Thus, the object of the present invention is to allow the formulation of natural care compositions based on hyaluronic acid which have a satisfactory viscosity. These compositions should also preferably be transparent and temperature stable, even in the absence of texturizing polymers of synthetic origin, while maintaining a good cosmeticity in terms of texture, and touching the application on the skin. The Applicant has now discovered that, surprisingly, the combination of a carrageenan gum with a particular diol made it possible to achieve these objectives.

The subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising: (a) hyaluronic acid and / or one or more of its salts, (b) one or more carrageenan gums, and (c) one or more diol (s) comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms. The compositions according to the invention have a good level of viscosity (not too fluid or too thick), a homogeneous and pleasant texture, and good qualities of use. In particular, they are easy to apply, and penetrate quickly into the skin, without feeling sticky finish. The compositions according to the invention have a dynamic viscosity at 25 ° C., preferably ranging from 4 to 20 poise (0.4 to 2 Pa.%) And more particularly from 5 to 15 poise (0.5 to 1.5 Pa. $). The viscosity of the compositions according to the invention may in particular be measured by means of a rotating mobile rheometer such as the Rheomat RM 200 apparatus marketed by LAMY, this apparatus being equipped with a different mobile (MS-R1, MS -R2, MS-R3, MS-R4 or MS-R5) according to the viscosities, rotating at 200 min-1. The compositions according to the invention advantageously have a viscosity, both after 30 seconds and after 10 minutes of shear, as defined above. In addition, the compositions according to the invention are storage stable, especially in terms of their visual appearance and their viscosity. By "stable" in the sense of the present invention is meant that the visual appearance and the viscosity of these compositions do not change substantially over time under standard conditions of storage tests, for example: during the 2 months to room temperature (20 ° C-25 ° C), and / or at 45 ° C and / or 4 ° C, which follow their manufacture. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention is transparent or translucent. By "transparent composition" is meant according to the invention a composition allowing the light to pass without causing deviation by refraction or reflection. The transparency of the composition can be measured using a Turbidimeter. For example, the Model 2100P® Portable Turbidimeter from the company HAcx can be used for measuring the transparency ranges of the composition. The composition is considered to be transparent when the measured turbidity value is between 0 and 250 NTU and is considered translucent for a turbidity value ranging from 250 to 1000 NTU. The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances, in particular the skin, comprising applying to the keratin materials a composition according to the invention. The subject of the present invention is also the use of the composition according to the invention for the care and / or the makeup of keratinous substances, and in particular of the skin.

Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field, especially in the expressions "between" and "from ... to". The composition according to the present invention contains hyaluronic acid and / or one or more of its salts.

The salts may be chosen from alkaline salts, and in particular the sodium and potassium salts. Advantageously, sodium hyaluronate is used. In particular, the hyaluronic acid or a salt thereof may have a weight average molecular weight of from 500,000 to 1,500,000, and preferably from 800,000 to 1,400,000. sodium hyaluronate sold under the following trade names: CRISTALHYAL (SOLIANCE company), BIO-SODIUM HYALURONATE POWDER MMW (SOCHIBIOS company), and SODIUM HYALURONATE (HA-T) (SHANDONG FREDA BIOPHARM company). The hyaluronic acid and its salts may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 3% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably ranging from from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the present invention also contains one or more carrageenan gum (s). The carrageenan gums are polysaccharides of the galactan type, constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the families Gigartinacae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae. They are obtained by aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. They have long galactan chains, anionic polyelectrolytes. These polymers are generally linear and formed by disaccharide units composed of two D-galactopyranose units alternately linked by a and B bonds. They are highly sulphated polysaccharides (20-50%) and the α-D-galactopyranosyl residues can be in the form of 3 ', 6'-anhydro.

The carrageenan gum (s) employed in the compositions according to the invention may be especially in the form of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and / or calcium salts and galactan sulfate esters.

As commercially available carhaghenane gums, mention may be made of the following references: the gums marketed under the name AQUAGEL by the company IKEDA; the gums sold under the name SATIAGUM UTC 30, SATIAGUM UTC 10, SATIAGEL VPC 508, SATIAGEL VPC 512 by the company CARGILL, the gums sold under the name SATIAGEL CT 52, SATIAGEL ME 5, SATIAGEL UCT 508, SATIAGEL UME 614, SATIAGEL ABN 20 by the company CARGILL; the gums sold under the name GENUSVICO CARRAGEENAN TYPE CI-102, GENUSVICO CARRAGEENAN TYPE CI-123 by the company CP KELCO; the gums sold by the company FMC under the trade names DanagelTM, Gelcarin®, IsagelTM, Lactogel®, LactarinTM, SeaGel®, SeaKem® and Viscarin®, for example the following references: Gelcarin PC 379, Gelcarin PC 812, Gelcarin PC 911, Viscarin PC 209, Viscarin TP 399 Viscarin PC 389, Gelcarin GP-379 NF, Gelcarin GP-812 NF, Gelcarin, GP-911 NF, Viscarin GP-109NF, SeaSpen PF.

The total amount of carrageenan gum (s) in the composition according to the invention can range from 0.15 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.4 to 5% by weight. weight and more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the present invention also contains one or more diol (s) comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms. In a manner known per se, diol is an organic compound comprising two hydroxyl functions (-OH).

Preferably, one or more diol (s) comprising from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, said diol is a propanediol, and even more preferably 1,3-propanediol. 1,3-Propanediol is especially marketed under the name ZEMEA PROPANEDIOL by the company DUPONT TATE AND LYLE BIO PRODUCTS.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises said one or more diol (s) in a content ranging from 0.2 to 25% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to at 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, in the composition according to the invention the weight ratio between the total amount of diol (s) according to the invention on the one hand, and the total amount of carrageenan gum (s) on the other hand, is greater or equal to 0.5, preferably greater than or equal to 1, more preferably greater than or equal to 5. The composition according to the invention preferably comprises an aqueous medium, that is to say it comprises water, in a preferential amount of at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, better still at least 60% by weight and more preferably at least 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred embodiment, the amount of water in the composition ranges from 40 to 95% by weight, preferably from 50 to 90% by weight, better still from 60 to 90% by weight, and still more preferably from 70 to 90% by weight. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may also contain one or more organic solvent (s) different from the diols, and chosen from lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol; and polyols comprising at least three hydroxyl (-OH) functions, such as glycerin, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, sucrose; and their mixtures.

The total amount of such organic solvent (s) in the composition of the invention may range, for example, from 0.5 to 30% by weight and preferably from 2 to 20% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.

If the composition comprises such organic solvent (s), preferably the weight ratio between the total amount of diol (s) according to the invention on the one hand, and the total amount of said solvent (s) organic (s) on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 0.1, preferably greater than or equal to 0.2, better greater than or equal to 1.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise additional organic solvents. The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional thickening agent (s), distinct from carrageenans, preferably chosen from naturally occurring gelling agents and polysaccharides. plant and / or biotechnological origin. These polysaccharides may optionally be chemically modified to promote their hydrophilic valence, as is the case of cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkyl celluloses (eg hydroxyethylcellulose). Examples of polysaccharides of plant origin which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of: a) gums other than carrageenan gums, such as guar gums and their nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konj ac gum or mannan gum, Tragacanth gum, Ghatti gum , gum Karaya, carob gum; agar gum, scleroglucan gums and mixtures thereof; as examples, mention may be made of guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP105® by the company Rhodia; mannan gum and konjac® (1% glucomannan) marketed by GfN; (b) modified or unmodified starches, such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, maize or rice, from vegetables such as sweet peas, tubers such as potatoes or cassava, tapioca starches ; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; as examples, mention may in particular be made of Remy DR I® rice starch marketed by Remy; corn starch Be from Roquette; potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide sold under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; the native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca pure® by the company National Starch; c) dextrins, such as dextrin extracted from corn under the name Index® from National Starch; d) celluloses and their derivatives, in particular alkyl or hydroxyalkyl celluloses; mention may in particular be made of methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses. Examples include cetyl hydroxy ethyl celluloses under the names Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330® from Aqualon; e) pectins, f) chitosan and its derivatives, g) polyholosides comprising at least two monosaccharides, preferably of natural origin, and especially chosen from: - aldoses such as pentoses (for example ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiose); hexoses (for example glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose); ketoses such as fructose; deoxyoses, such as rhamnose, digitoxose, cymarose or oleandrose; ose derivatives such as uronic acids such as mannuronic, guluronic, galacturonic or glucuronic acids; or itols like mannitol or sorbitol. Mention may in particular be made of the polysaccharide comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, and for example a linear sequence of α-Fucose, α-D-galactose and galacturonic acid, for example Fucogel 1000 PP® (SOLABIA company), h) anionic polysaccharides, in particular of biotechnological origin, such as the anionic polysaccharide having as a repeating unit a tetrasaccharide composed of L-fucose, D-glucose and glucuronic acid, such as that bearing the name INCI Biosaccharide Gum- 4 marketed under the reference GLYCOFILM 1.5P by Solabia. i) clays such as laponites and mixtures thereof. The additional thickening agent (s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight. If the composition comprises such additional thickening agent (s), preferably the weight ratio between the total amount of carrageenan gum (s) on the one hand, and the total amount of agent (s) (s) additional thickener (s) on the other hand is greater than or equal to 0.5, preferably greater than or equal to 1, more preferably greater than or equal to 2 and even more preferably greater than or equal to 5. According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise additional thickening agents. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1.5% by weight of synthetic thickening or gelling polymers, preferably less than 1%, better still less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.2% by weight. In particular, it may be totally free of thickening or synthetic gelling polymers. Such synthetic polymers are, for example, acrylic polymers (Carbopol family), acrylic / alkyl acrylate copolymers or (co) polymers based on 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (for example the polymers sold under the name Pemulen). , Sepigel or Simulgel, Aristoflex).

The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more surfactant (s), preferably natural or of natural origin, and chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. Reference can be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", Vol. 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, in particular p.347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. The anionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin, amino acids and amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, sulphosuccinates and alkyl sulphoacetates. phosphates and alkylphosphates, polypeptides, anionic alkyl polyglucoside derivatives, soaps (fatty acid salts), soybean oil derivatives, lactic acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof. The anionic derivatives of plant-derived proteins are hydrophobic group protein hydrolysates, said hydrophobic group being able to be naturally present in the protein or to be added by reacting the protein and / or the protein hydrolyzate with a hydrophobic compound. The proteins are of plant origin, and the hydrophobic group can be in particular a fatty chain, for example an alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. As anionic derivatives of plant-based proteins that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of hydrolysates of wheat, soy, oat or silk proteins, comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and their salts. The alkyl chain may in particular be a lauryl chain and the salt may be a salt of sodium, potassium and / or ammonium. Mention may be made, for example, of sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts of lauric acid-modified silk protein hydrolysates, such as the product marketed under the name KAWA Silk by the company Kawaken; the sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts of wheat protein hydrolysates modified with lauric acid, such as the potassium salt marketed under the name AMINOFOAM W OR by the company Croda (CTFA name: Potassium lauroyl wheat aminoacids) and the sodium salt sold under the name PROTEOL LW 30 by the company Seppic (CTFA name: sodium lauroyl wheat aminoacids); the sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts of oat protein hydrolysates having an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and more particularly the sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts of Oat protein hydrolysates modified with lauric acid, such as the sodium salt sold under the name PROTEOL OAT (CTFA name: sodium lauroyl amino acid), PROTEOL SAV 50S (INCI name: Sodium cocoyl aminoacid), PROTEOL APL (INCI name: sodium cocoyl apple amino acids) by Seppic, AMARANTH S (INCI name: sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed amaranth proteins) and mixtures thereof. As alkyl ether sulphates, mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70/30) (2.2 EO) sold under the names Sipon AOS 2250 or TEXAPON N702 PATEC) by the company Cognis, lauryl ether ammonium sulphate (C12-14 70/30) (3 EO) sold under the name Sipon LEA 3700 by Cognis, the alkyl (C12-C14) ether (9 EO) ammonium sulphate sold under the name Rhodapex AB / 200 by Rhodia Chimie. As sulphonates, mention may be made, for example, of alpha-olefin sulphonates, such as sodium alpha-olefin sulphonate (C14-16) sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-400 by Stepan, marketed under the names WITCONATE AOS PROTEGEO and SULFRAMINE AOS PH 120 by the company Witco or marketed under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 CGC) by Stepan, the secondary sodium olefin sulfonate marketed under the name HOSTAPUR SAS 300 by the company Clariant; linear alkyl aryl sulphonates, such as sodium xylene sulphonate sold under the names MANROSOL SXS30O, MANROSOL SXS40O and MANROSOL SXS93C) by the company Manro. Mention may also be made of the alkyl sulphoacetate mixture, for example lauryl sulphoacetate, for example that sold as a mixture with sodium methyl-2-sulpholaurate and sulpholaurate-2-disodium under the reference STEPAN MILD PCL by the company. Stepan. As isethionates, mention may be made of acylisethionates, such as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name JORDAPON CI P® by the company Jordan. As taurates, mention may be made of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate marketed under the name HOSTAPON CT PATE® by the company Clariant; N-acyl N-methyltaurates, such as the sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate sold under the name HOSTAPON LT-SF® by the company Clariant or marketed under the trademark NIKKOL CMT-30-T® by Nikkol, palmitoyl methyltaurate sodium sold under the name NIKKOL PMT® by the company Nikkol.

As sulfosuccinates, mention may be made, for example, of the oxyethylenated (3 EO) lauryl alcohol monosulphosuccinate (C12 / C14 70/30) sold under the names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL® and REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 4® by the company Witco. di-sodium salt of a hemi-sulfosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, sold under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE® by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, the di-sodic oxyethylenated oleamide (2 EO) marketed under the name Standapol SH 135® by the company Cognis, the oxyethylenated lauric amide mono-sulfosuccinate (5 EO) marketed under the name LEBON A-5000® by the company Sanyo, the di-sodium salt of oxyethylenated lauryl citrate monosulfinate (10 EO) marketed under the name REWOPOL SB CS 50® by the company Witco, the di-sodium salt of lauric alcohol monosulfosuccinate sold under the name REWOPOL SB F12P® by the company Witco, the monosulfosuccin ate of ricinoleic mono-ethanolamide sold under the name REWODERM S 1333® by the company Witco. As phosphates and alkylphosphates, mention may be made, for example, of monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl mono-phosphate sold under the name MAP 20® by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecylphosphoric acid, mixture of mono- and di-ester (majority diester) marketed under the name CRAFOL AP-310 by the company Cognis, the mixture of monoester and octylphosphoric acid di-ester, marketed under the name CRAFOL AP-200 by the company Cognis, the mixture of monoester and diester of ethoxylated 2-butyloctanol phophoric acid (7 moles of EO), sold under the name ISOFOL 12 7 EO-PHOSPHATE ESTER® by Condea, potassium or triethanolamine salt of monoalkyl (C12-C13) phosphate marketed under the references ARLATONE MAP 230K-40® and ARLATONE MAP 230T-60® by the company Uniqema, potassium lauryl phosphate marketed under DERMALCARE MAP XC-99/090 enema by Rhodia Chimie.

The anionic derivatives of alkyl-polyglucosides may in particular be citrates, tartrates, sulphosuccinates, carbonates and glycerol ethers obtained from the alkyl polyglucosides. Mention may be made, for example, of the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) tartaric ester, sold under the name EUCAROL AGE-ET® by the company Cesalpinia, the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside sulfosuccinic ester (1,4). ), marketed under the name ESSAI 512 MP® by the company Seppic, the sodium salt of citric ester cocoyl polyglucoside (1,4) sold under the name EUCAROL AGE-EC® by the company Cesalpinia.

In particular, the anionic surfactants may be chosen from soaps (fatty acid salts), soy oil derivatives, lactic acid derivatives, amino acids, acylamino acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof. The soaps are obtained from a fatty acid which is partially or totally saponified (neutralized) with a basic agent. These are alkali or alkaline-earth metal soaps or organic bases. As fatty acids, it is possible to use saturated, linear or branched fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. This fatty acid may in particular be chosen from palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid and mixtures thereof. As basic agents, it is possible to use, for example, alkali metal hydroxides (sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide), alkaline earth metal hydroxides (for example magnesium), ammonium hydroxide, or even organic bases such as triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine. The soaps may be in particular alkali salts of fatty acid, the basic agent being an alkali metal hydroxide, and preferably potassium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide (KOH). The amount of basic agent must be sufficient for the fatty acid to be at least partially neutralized. Mention may in particular be made of sodium or potassium laurate, potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, potassium stearate, potassium cocoate or stearic acid salts of KOH formed in situ. The derivatives of soybean oil and their salts are in particular the fatty acids and salts of fatty acids derived from soybean oil (whose INCI name is "glycine soybean oil" or "soybean oil") and in particular alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, and fatty acids derived from soybean, such as potassium soyate such as that marketed by Noveon. As acylamino acids, mention may be made, for example, of sodium cocoylglycinate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCS-12, sodium cocoylglycinate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCK-12, cocoyl glutamate of disodium marketed by Ajinomoto company under the name Amisoft ECS-22SB, sodium lauroyl glutamate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft LS11, lauroyl sodium sarcosinate marketed by Seppic under the name ORAMIX L 30, sodium and disodium stearoyl glutamate marketed by the company Ajinomoto under the names Amisoft HS21 P and HS11 Pf and cocoyl sarcosinate sodium marketed by the company ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ under the name Protelan LS 9011 / C. Mention may also be made of the sodium salt of lauroyl amino acids of oats such as Proteol OAT marketed by the company Seppic or the compound bearing the INCI name sodium cocoyl aminoacids such as Proteol SAV 5OS from Seppic. The amino acid derivatives may be chosen for example from sarcosinates and in particular acylsarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name SARKOSYL NL 97® by the company Ciba or marketed under the name ORAMIX L 30® by the company Seppic, myristoyl sodium sarcosinate, sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN® by the company Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN® by the company Nikkol; alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name Sodium Nikol alkanate LN 30® by the company Nikkol or marketed under the name Alanone Ale® by the company Kawaken, and N-lauroyl N-methylalanine triethanolamine, marketed under the name ALANONE ALTA® by the company Kawaken; N-acylglutamates such as triethanolamine monocoylglutamate sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE CT-120 by Ajinomoto, and triethanolamine lauroylglutamate sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12® by Ajinomoto, cocoyl glutamate; triethanolamine sold under the name Amisoft CT-120 by the company Ajinomoto; aspartates such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroylaspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoylaspartate, sold under the name ASPARACK® by the company Mitsubishi; citrates. The lactic acid derivatives or their salts may be chosen from acyl lactylic acid derivatives, their salts (lactylates) such as stearoyl lactylate such as for example that marketed by Oleon NV under the name Radiamuls 2980; sodium stearoyl lactylate as proposed for example by the company Oleon NV under the name Radiamuls 2990, by Karlshamns AB under the name Akoline SL, by the company Uniquema under the name Priazul 2134 or by Dr. Straetmans under the name Dermofeel SL ; sodium isostearoyl lactylate such as that marketed by Uniquema under the name Priazul 2133; sodium behenoyl lactylate, for example, sold by Rita Corporation under the name Pationic SBL; sodium cocoyl lactylate such as that sold by the company Rita under the name Pationic SCL, sodium oleoyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate (PATIONIC 138C Caravan), sodium caproyl lactylate (CAPMUL S8L-G Abitec). Mention may also be made of cocoamphoacetate sodium, glycerin, lauryl glucoside, sodium cocoylglutamate, lauryl glucose sodium carboxylate sold by Cognis under the reference Plantapon SF. Amphoteric surfactants (this term including amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants) may be chosen, for example, from betaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives, derivatives of glycine, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, alkylamphoacetates and mixtures thereof. As betaines, there may be mentioned in particular alkylbetaines such as cocobetaine such as the product sold under the name DEHYTON AB-30® by the company Cognis, laurylbetaine as the product sold under the name GENAGEN KB® by the company Clariant, laurylbetaine oxyethylenated (10 EO), such as the product sold under the name LAURYLETHER (10 OE) BETAINE® by the company Shin Nihon Rica, stearylbetaine oxyethylenated (10 EO), such as the product marketed under the name STEARYLETHER (10 EO) BETAINE® by the company Shin Nihon Rica company. Among the N-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives, mention may be made, for example, of cocamidopropyl betaine marketed under the name LEBON 2000 HG® by the company Sanyo, under the name EMPIGEN BB® by the company Albright & Wilson, under the names Tego Betain F 50 and CK D by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, or those marketed in admixture with glyceryl lauratec, such as the commercial references Tego Betain HS or Antil HS 60 from EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, lauramidopropyl betaine marketed under the name REWOTERIC AMB12P® by the company Witco. As sultaines, there may be mentioned cocoylamidopropylhydroxysulfobetaine marketed under the name CROSULTAINE C-50® by the company Croda.

As alkyl polyaminocarboxylates (APAC), mention may be made of sodium cocoylpolyamino carboxylate, sold under the name AMPHOLAK 7 CX / C®, and AMPHOLAK 7 CX® by the company Akzo Nobel, the sodium stearyl-polyamidocarboxylate sold under the name AMPHOLAK. 7 TX / C by Akzo Nobel, sodium carboxymethylolpropylamine, marketed under the name AMPHOLAK X07 / C® by the company Akzo Nobel. As alkylamphoacetates, mention may be made, for example, of N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-di-sodium (CTFA name: disodium cocamphodiacetate), such as the product sold under the name MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRA NP® by the company Rhodia Chemistry, and N-sodium N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine (CTFA name: sodium cocamphoacetate).

The nonionic surfactants may be chosen for example from alkyl polyglucosides (APG), maltose esters, sucrose esters, hydrophobic gums, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, glyceryl esters of fatty acids, glycerol esters oxyalkylenated esters, oxyalkylenated sugar esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, fatty acid and sorbitan esters, glucamine derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-n-methylglucamine, and their mixtures. As alkylpolyglucosides, use is preferably made of those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a hydrophilic group (glucoside) preferably comprising 1.2 to 3 units of saccharide. . Mention may be made, for example, of decylglucoside (Alkyl-C9 / C11-polyglucoside (1.4)), such as the product sold under the name MYDOL 10® by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP® by the company Cognis. , and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by the company Seppic; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110® by the company Seppic or PLANTACARE 810 P by the company Cognis; laurylglucoside, such as the products marketed under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N® and PLANTACARE 1200 by the company Cognis; and coco-glucoside, such as the product sold under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP® by the company Cognis, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally in a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold for example under the name Montanov 68 by the company Seppic under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by the company Seppic; cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35/65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under the name Montanov 82 by the company Seppic, the C12 to C20 alkyl glucosides such as those sold in admixture with fatty alcohols; C14 to C22 under the reference MONTANOV L by the company Seppic. The oxyalkylenated glycerol esters are in particular the polyoxyethylenated derivatives of glyceryl and fatty acid esters and their hydrogenated derivatives. These oxyalkylenated glycerol esters may be chosen, for example, from glyceryl esters of hydrogenated and oxyethylenated fatty acids, such as PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate sold under the name Rewoderm LI-S 80 by the company Goldschmidt; oxyethylenated glyceryl cocoates such as PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate sold under the name Tegosoft GC by the company Goldschmidt, and PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate sold under the name Rewoderm LI-63 by the company Goldschmidt; and their mixtures. The oxyalkylenated sugar esters are in particular the polyethylene glycol ethers of the fatty acid and sugar esters. These oxyalkylenated sugar esters may be chosen for example from oxyethylenated glucose esters such as PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate marketed under the name Glucamate DOE 120 by the company Amerchol. The fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol are preferably esters of C16-C22 fatty acids containing from 8 to 100 ethylene oxide units.

The fatty chain of the esters may in particular be chosen from stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl and cetyl units and their mixtures such as cetearyl, and preferably a stearyl chain. The number of ethylene oxide units can range from 8 to 100, preferably from 10 to 80, and better still from 10 to 50. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, this number can range from 20 to By way of example of fatty acid ester and of polyethylene glycol, mention may be made of stearic acid esters comprising, respectively, 20, 30, 40, 50, 100 ethylene oxide units, such as product sold under the name Myrj 49 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 20 OE, CTFA name: PEG-20 stearate), Myrj 51, Myrj 52 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 40 OE, CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), Myrj 53 , Myrj 59 P by the company CRODA.

The esters of C16-C22 fatty acids and of sorbitan are in particular esters of C16-C22 acids and of sorbitan and are formed by esterification of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain. having respectively from 16 to 22 carbon atoms with sorbitol. These esters may especially be chosen from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, sorbitan oleates, and mixtures thereof. Sorbitan stearates and palmitates, and preferably sorbitan stearates, are preferably used.

By way of example of sorbitan ester which may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan stearate) sold by Croda under the name Span 60, sorbitan tristearate sold by the company. Croda company under the name Span 65 V, the sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: Sorbitan palmitate) sold by Croda under the name Span 40, the sorbitan monoleate sold by Croda under the name Span 80 V, the trioleate sorbitan sold by Uniquema under the name Span 85 V. Preferably, the sorbitan ester used is sorbitan tristearate.

The glyceryl and fatty acid esters may be obtained in particular from an acid having a saturated linear alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. As glycerol ester and fatty acid, there may be mentioned glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate) (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the glyceryl ester of fatty acid used is chosen from glyceryl stearates. Mention may also be made of the mixture of glyceryl stearate and polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate, and in particular that comprising a 50/50 mixture, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by Croda. As sucrose esters, mention may be made of sucrose esters of fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, said esters possibly comprising from 2 to 5 fatty chains, such as, for example, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose laurate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose myristate and mixtures thereof. Mention may in particular be made of sucrose cocoate such as TEGOSOFT PSE from GOLDSCHMIDT, sucrose myristate such as Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods Corp.'s Surfhope SE COSME C-1416, sucrose laurate such as Surfhope SE COSME C-1216, sucrose laurate such as Surfhope SE COSME C-1215L, the mixture of sucrose esters and palmitic and / or stearic acids (INCI name sucrose palmitate) as sold under the reference Surfhope SE COSME C-1616. Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sucrose: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 by the company CRODESTA, respectively denoting sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri- and tetraester , and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name RYOTO SUGAR ESTERS, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triesterpolyester; the sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name TEGOSOFT PSE. Hydrophobic or hydrophobic modified gum means a gum modified with hydrophobic chains, in particular modified by grafting hydrophobic chains on the hydrophilic skeleton of the gum. There may be mentioned, for example, gum arabic proposed under the name EMULSIFYING 500 A or 500 L by the company Alland & Robert, the arabinogalactan gum proposed under the name Laracare A200 by the company Lonza, scleroglucan gum as proposed by Alban Muller company under the reference Amigel Granule, the cellulose proposed by the company under the reference Cellulose Water Dispersion (4/96) by the company DAIICHI KOGYO SEIYAKU, the pectin and dextrose mixture marketed by Cargill under the reference Unipectine OF 6000, natural branched polysaccharides such as Soliance's Biolygel, lauryl inulin carbamate (Inutec SPI from Orafti). Particularly suitable nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglucosides (APG), sucrose esters, hydrophobed gums and mixtures thereof. The cationic surfactants that can be used according to the present invention are in particular the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts; imidazoline derivatives; cationic amine oxides, and / or a mixture thereof. The quaternary ammonium salts are in particular: (a) those which have the following general formula (IV) + R 1 R 2 R 2 4 (IV) in which the radicals R 1 to R 4, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens. The aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), alkylamide, (C12-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl, (C12-C22) alkylacetate, hydroxyalkyl, with about 1 to 30 carbon atoms; X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 2 -C 6) alkyl sulphates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulphonates, and preferably R 1 and R 2 denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or a C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl; C4. (b) the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium, such as for example that of formula (V) below X-CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R 8) -CO-RS (V) in which RS represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from coconut fatty acids, R 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical, Rg represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulphonates. Preferably, RS and R6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R7 denotes methyl, and Rg denotes hydrogen. (c) the quaternary diammonium salts of formula (VI): embedded image in which R 9 denotes an aliphatic radical containing from about 16 to 30; carbon atoms, Rio, RH, R12, R13 and R14, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates. (d) the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, for example those of the following formula (VII): embedded image 1R6 NNNR7 + X-2X (CrH2R0) z R17 R17-C- (0 CnH26) y X - (- CI, H29 - R16 R15 in which: - Ris is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl radicals and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals; R16 is chosen from: O - the radical R19 - C - - the saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C22 hydrocarbon radicals R20, - the hydrogen atom, - R18 is chosen from: O - the radical R21 C - the linear or branched, saturated, C1-C6 hydrocarbon radicals R22 or unsaturated, - the hydrogen atom, - R17, R19 and R21, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon radicals; n, p and r, which are identical or different; different, are integers from 2 to 6; - y is an integer from 1 to 10; - x and z, identical or different, are integers equal to 0 to 10; X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; Provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R16 is R20 and when z is 0 then R18 is R22.

Risyl alkyl radicals can be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R a denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R16 is a hydrocarbon radical R20, it may be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R 18 is a hydrocarbon radical R 22, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R17, R19 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, n, p and r, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 and even more particularly are equal to 2. The anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The X- anion is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate. More particularly, the ammonium salts of formula (VII) in which: R15 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical, - x and y are equal to 1; z is 0 or 1; - n, are equal to 2; - R16 is chosen from: O - the radical R19 - C - - methyl, ethyl or hydrocarbon radicals C14-C22 - the hydrogen atom; - R18 is chosen from: O - the radical R21-C - - the hydrogen atom; R17, R19 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon radicals and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear. Of the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV), tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred. , in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name "CERAPHYL 70" by the company VAN DYK. There may be mentioned, for example, the compounds of formula (V) such as the salts (in particular chloride or methyl sulphate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethyl ammonium, of diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, of triacyloxyethyl methyl ammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethyl ammonium and their mixtures. The acyl radicals preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and are more particularly derived from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl radical, the latter may be identical or different. These products are obtained for example by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin or by transesterification of their esters methyl. This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (methyl or preferably ethyl), methyl methanesulphonate, methyl paratoluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are for example sold under the names DEHYQUART by the company COGNIS, STEPANQUAT by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by the company CECA, REWOQUAT WE 18 and REWOQUAT W75 by the company DEGUSSA. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

Quaternary diammonium salts of formula (VI) that are suitable for the invention include, in particular, propane diammonium dichloride. The surfactants preferentially used in the composition according to the invention may in particular be nonionic surfactants, and in particular surfactants of natural origin, in which compounds which may be present in nature and which are reproduced by chemical synthesis are included. . They may be chosen in particular from the soaps (fatty acid salts), the soy oil derivatives, the lactic acid derivatives, the sugar and fatty acid esters, the glycerol or polyglycerol esters and fatty acid comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, amino acids, acylamino acids, their salts, alkyl polyglucosides (APG), hydrophobized gums and their mixtures. Mention may also be made of anionic surfactants chosen from acylamino acid salts such as glutamates, glycinates, lactic acid derivatives or their salts, such as lactylates, citrates and their mixtures. In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from glycerol or polyglycerol and fatty acid esters comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 atoms. carbon, such as lauric acid. The surfactant (s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight and better from 0.5 to 5% by weight. The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one foaming agent chosen from saponins such as saponins extracted from soap trees (Sapindus mukurossi, Sapindus tnfoliatus), licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra), horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum). , Bacoppa (Baccopa monneria), Sarsaparilla (Smilax medica, Smilax aspera, Smilax ornata), Panama wood (Quillaja saponaria), Saponaria (Saponaria officinalis), Ginseng (Panax ginseng), Yucca (Yucca schidigera), Maltese cross (Tribulus terrestris), Juazirine (Zizyphus joazeiro), Jiaogulan (Gynostemma pentaphyllum), Indian asparagus (Asparagus racemosus, Alfalfa (Medicago sativa) and mixtures thereof Saponins may be present at a level of from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.2 to 15%, and more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil, that is to say say a fat body liquid at temperature ambient temperature (20-25 ° C).

The oil may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils, of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. These oils are physiologically acceptable. As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for example triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn and soybean oils; , squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those marketed by Stearineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular fatty acids: The fatty esters may be chosen for example from those obtained from a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohol having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms and a linear or branched chain fatty acid having 3 to 24 carbon atoms. As fatty esters, mention may be made, for example, of 2-ethylhexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), ethyl laurate, butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, laurate and laurate. isohexyl, isopropyl laurate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, butyl myristate, isobutyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyl dodecyl myristate, ethyl monococoate 2-hexyl (or octyl monococoate), methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate), butyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, 2-ethyl hexyl stearate (or octyl stearate), isopropyl isostearate, isocetyl stearate, isostearate isotearyl, 2-ethylhexyl pelargonate (or octyl pelargonate), 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (or octyl hydroxystearate), decyl oleate, di-isopropyl adipate, 2-di-ethyl hexyl adipate (or di-octyl adipate), diisocetyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate (or octyl succinate), diisopropyl sebacate, ethyl malate 2-hexyl (or octyl malate), pentaerythritol caprate / caprylate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate (octyl hexanoate), octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, neopentanoate isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethyl hexyl hexanoate 2 (or octyl 2-ethyl hexanoate), 2-ethyl hexyl octanoate (or octanoate octyl), cetyl ethyl-2 hexanoate, tetraisostearate pentaerythritol, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (Eldew SL 205 from Unipex), dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol CC from Cognis), the benzoates of C12-C15 fatty alcohols (Finsoly TN from Finetex). As fatty ethers, mention may be made of Dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis). linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil; volatile linear alkanes, preferably of plant origin, comprising from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 14 carbon atoms. They may have a flash point in the range of 30 to 120 ° C, and more preferably 40 to 100 ° C and are preferably liquid at room temperature (about 25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). ). By way of example of a linear volatile alkane which is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (distinct alkane mixtures and differing from at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil. By way of example of a linear alkane which is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), npentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) described in example 1 of the application WO2008 / 155059 of the Cognis Company, and the mixture n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, respectively dodecane and tetradecane linear and their mixtures. It is possible to use the volatile linear alkane alone or as a mixture of at least two different volatile alkanes and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1, and in particular a mixture of at least two volatile linear alkanes comprising 10 to 15 distinct carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of linear volatile C1 1 / C 13 alkanes or a mixture of volatile linear C12 / C14 alkanes, in particular a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture (such a mixture may be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155059); partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based fluorinated oils, such as those described in US Pat. JP-A-2-295912; - and their mixtures.

The oils chosen from vegetable oils or of plant origin are preferably used. The oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 70% by weight.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may, in addition, contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field, such as antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, perfume peptizers, dyestuffs, fillers, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents. The nature of the adjuvants and their amounts must be such that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention. The amounts of these adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field and, for example, from 0.001 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

As active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of soothing agents such as allantoin and bisabolol; floral waters such as linden water or cornflower water; glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts; antibacterials such as octopirox, triclosan and triclocarban; essential oils ; vitamins such as for example retinol (vitamin A), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), tocopherol (vitamin E), niacinamide (vitamin PP or B3), panthenol (vitamin B5) and their derivatives such as by examples are the esters of these vitamins (palmitate, acetate, propionate), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosylated vitamin C or glucopyranosyl ascorbic acid (Ascorbyl glucoside); co-enzymes such as coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone and coenzyme R or biotin; protein hydrolysates; plant extracts and in particular plankton extracts; and their mixtures.

As fillers, mention may be made of mineral fillers such as talc or magnesium silicate (particle size: 5 microns) sold under the name LUZENAC M00® by the company LUZENAC, kaolin or aluminum silicate such as for example that marketed under the name denomination KAOLIN SUPREME® by the company IMERYS, or organic fillers such as starch, for example the product sold under the name Amidon de Mais®® by Roquette, nylon microspheres such as those sold under the name ORGASOL 2002 UD. NAT COS® by ATOCHEM, cellulose beads such as DAITO KASEI KYOGO's Cellulobeads D-10, lauroyl lysine, micronized powders of plants (such as lychee, cranberry, coconut) such as those marketed under the Microzest denomination by the company Lessonia, cork powder, microspheres based on vinylidene chloride / Acrylo copolymer nitrile / methacrylonitrile enclosing isobutane, expanded as those sold under the name Expancel 551 DE® by Expancel.

Those skilled in the art will take care to choose these optional additives and their amounts so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention. The composition according to the invention is preferably in the form of an aqueous gel. The composition may be a care composition, in particular a skin care product such as a skin care base, a care gel (day care, night care, anti-wrinkle treatment), a makeup base. ; a care composition for the lips (lip balm); a sun protection or self-tanning composition. The composition may also be a make-up composition, especially a make-up of the skin, such as a foundation, a blush, an eyeshadow, a concealer product, a body make-up product.

The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, and in particular the skin, which consists in applying to said materials an effective amount of a composition as described above. This application may or may not be followed by rinsing.

When the application of the composition is followed by rinsing, the exposure time of the composition on the keratin materials ranges from a few seconds to 60 minutes, better from 5 seconds to 30 minutes, even better from 10 seconds to 10 minutes. Preferably, the compositions according to the invention are not rinsed. The compositions according to the invention can be advantageously used for the care and / or the makeup of keratinous substances, and more particularly of the skin. In a particularly preferred manner, the compositions according to the invention are used for the care of the face, and more preferably for the hydration of the skin, to prevent wrinkles and / or reduce existing wrinkles. The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLES

In the following examples, all the amounts are indicated as a percentage by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition. The following compositions were prepared from the ingredients indicated in the two tables below. For each composition, the viscosity was measured at 25 ° C. using the Rheomat RM 200 apparatus marketed by the company LAMY, equipped with a mobile MS-R3, rotating at 200 min-1. The viscosity values are measured after 30 seconds of shear on the one hand and after 10 minutes of shear on the other hand.

Table 1: compositions Al to A5 containing a carrageenan gum Composition Al A2 A3 A4 A5 Adenosine 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 Culture filtrate 0.01 0.01 0.01 0, 01 0.01 crithmum maritimum callus Benzyl alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Babassu oil 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 Leaf juice 0.1 0, 1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Alo e vera Extracts of thyme and 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Buddleia of David Flower extract 0.25 0.25 0, 25 0.25 0.25 wild mallow bud extract 2 2 2 2 2 common beech Perfume 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 35 Hyaluronate 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.60 6 0.6 sodium Gum of 1 1 1 1 1 carrageenan Glycerine 3 3 3 3 3 Ethanol - 5 5 5 - 1,3-propanediol - - 1 10 10 Water Qsp QSP QSP QSP QSP 100% 100% 100% 100% 100 % pH 5.2 5.2 5.2 5.2 5.2 Viscosity at t = 30 s 4.2 5.0 9.0 9.8 9.0 (in poises) Viscosity at t = 10 4.2 4.6 6.9 8.6 8.6 min (in poise) The above results show that the addition of 1,3-propanediol to a composition containing sodium hyaluronate and a Carrageenan gum makes it possible to significantly increase the viscosity of the composition (cf. compositions A3, A4 and A5 according to the invention). On the other hand, the addition of ethanol has only a small influence on the viscosity (cf. comparative composition A2).

Table 2 comparative compositions B1 to B5, containing a xanthan gum Composition B1 B2 B3 B4 B5 Adenosine 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 0.04 Culture filtrate 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 crithmum maritimum callus Benzyl alcohol 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Babassu oil 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 0.01 Leaf juice 0.1 0, 1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Alo e vera Extracts of thyme and 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Buddleia of David Flower extract 0.25 0.25 0, 25 0.25 0.25 wild mallow Extract of 2 2 2 2 2 bud of common beech Scent 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Hyaluronate 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 sodium Gum of 1 1 1 1 1 xanthan Glycerine 3 3 3 3 3 Ethanol - 5 5 5 - 1,3-propanediol - - 1 10 10 Water Qsp QSP QSP QSP QSP 100% 100% 100% 100% 100% pH 5.2 5.2 5.2 5.2 5.2 Viscosity at t = 30 8.2 7.3 6.9 8.6 8.6 s (in poises) Viscosity at t = 10 7.8 6 , 9 6.5 8.2 8.2 min (in poises) The above results show that the addition of 1,3-propanediol to a composition containing sodium hyaluronate and a gom It is not possible to increase the viscosity of the composition as significantly as for the compositions A3 to A5 according to the invention, which contain a carrageenan gum. In addition, compared to the compositions A3 to A5 according to the invention, the comparative compositions B3 to B5 are less translucent, more lumpy, and more tacky at the end of application.

The compositions A3 to A5 are more pleasing to the touch, and also provide the application with a greater sensation of freshness than the comparative compositions B3 to B5.

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising: (a) hyaluronic acid and / or one or more of its salts, (b) one or more carrageenan gums, and (c) one or more diol (s) comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains an alkaline salt of hyaluronic acid, preferably selected from sodium and potassium salts, and more preferably sodium hyaluronate. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hyaluronic acid and / or its salts are present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05% to 2% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the carrageenan gum (s) are in the form of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and / or calcium salts and sulphate ester esters. galactan. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total amount of carrageenan gum (s) ranges from 0.15 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, better from 0.4 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said diol (s) comprise from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, and preferably from 2 to 4 carbon atoms. 7. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said diol is a propanediol, and preferably 1,3-propanediol. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises said diol (s) in a content ranging from 0.2 to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total amount of diol (s) comprising from 2 to 10 carbon atoms on the one hand, and the total amount of gum (s). carrageenan, on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 0.5, preferably greater than or equal to 1, more preferably greater than or equal to 5. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least 40% by weight of water, preferably at least 50% by weight, better still at least 60% by weight and more preferably at least 70% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the composition. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains one or more organic solvent (s), selected from lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol. ; and polyols comprising at least three hydroxyl (-OH) functions, such as glycerin, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, sucrose; and their mixtures. 12. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the total amount of said organic solvent (s) ranges from 0.5 to 30% by weight and preferably from 2 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight. of the composition. 13. Composition according to any one of claims 11 and 12, characterized in that the weight ratio between the total amount of diol (s) comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms on the one hand and the total amount of said solvent (s) ) organic (s) on the other hand, is greater than or equal to 0.1, preferably greater than or equal to 0.2, better still greater than or equal to 1. 14. A process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials, and in particular the skin, comprising applying to said materials an effective amount of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13. 15. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for the care and / or makeup of keratin materials, and more particularly the skin.