FR2954162A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful for treating keratinous material, comprises an iota carrageenan gum and kappa carrageenan gum in an aqueous medium - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition (I) comprises an iota carrageenan gum and kappa carrageenan gum in iota/kappa carrageenan ratio of >= 1.5, in an aqueous medium.

Description

The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition comprising at least two carrageenan gums and its use in the cosmetic field.

To thicken the cosmetic compositions and adjust their viscosity to the desired consistency, the formulators generally use synthetic polymers (eg acrylic polymers) stabilizing emulsions and texturizing agents. However, synthetic polymers, although very effective, are likely to have an irritating potential, especially in people with sensitive or reactive skin.

In addition, in recent years the cosmetic market is marked by a very strong demand for formulations containing ingredients of natural origin. Consumers want formulations that are free of chemicals and prefer ingredients of natural origin, known for their better tolerance and affinity for the skin.

"Natural compound" means a compound that is obtained directly from the soil or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as, for example, grinding. , refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

By compounds "of natural origin" is meant a natural compound having undergone one or more chemical or industrial treatments annexes, causing changes not affecting the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound comprising predominantly natural constituents having or not undergone transformations, as indicated above.

By way of non-limiting example of an adjunct chemical or industrial treatment resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those authorized by the control bodies such as Ecocert (reference system for organic cosmetics and January 2003) or defined in recognized textbooks in the field, such as "Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine", 2005, Vol. 120, 9:10.

As alternatives to so-called synthetic gelling agents, polymers of natural origin such as xanthan, cellulosic polymers, guar gum or starch are known, but these compounds alone do not make it possible to obtain compositions which are both gelled. stable, transparent and having a satisfactory cosmetic feel.

Thus, there remains the need for cosmetic compositions of high viscosity, transparent and temperature-stable, even in the absence of texturizing polymers of synthetic origin, while maintaining a good cosmetics in terms of texture, and touching the application on the skin.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that the combination of two carrageenan gums in a defined ratio makes it possible to obtain thick cosmetic compositions which are stable over time and which have a homogeneous texture, which are soft and non-sticky when applied to the surface. skin.

Thus, the subject of the present application is a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, a gum of iota carrageenan and a gum of kappa carrageenan in a ratio of iota carrageenan / kappa carrageenan greater than or equal to 1.5. From WO 99/42548, gels comprising iota and / or kappa carrageenans are known, but these gels generally have a quantity of kappa carrageenan which is much greater than the iota carrageenan content and does not make it possible to obtain homogeneous and stable textures. in time. The composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium. Here, the term "physiologically acceptable medium" means a medium compatible with keratin materials such as skin, mucous membranes, scalp, eyes and / or keratinous fibers such as eyelashes or hair. The compositions of the invention are compositions that are translucent and stable. They have good cosmetic properties, that is to say a homogeneous texture and pleasant to the application, good safety and are stable over time. A composition is stable if no change in its macroscopic, microscopic appearance and its physico-chemical characteristics (pH, viscosity) is observed after storage for a period of two months at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at 45 ° C. 10 15

The compositions according to the invention have a viscosity ranging preferably from 2 to 34 poise (0.2 to 3.4 Pa. $) And more particularly from 4 to 21 poise (0.4 to 2.1 Pa. $), these viscosities being measured by means of the apparatus Rheomat Mettler RM 180 at 25 ° C, this apparatus being equipped with a different mobile according to the viscosities, for example of a mobile 2 for the viscosity ranges lower than 7 poise, d a mobile 3 for viscosity ranges of 2 to 40 poises, and a mobile 4 for viscosity ranges of 20 poise to 80 poises. The viscosity values are taken after 30 seconds of shear. Carrageenans Carrageenans are polysaccharides constituting the cell walls of various red algae (Rhodophyceae) belonging to the families Gigartinacae, Hypneaceae, Furcellariaceae and Polyideaceae. They are obtained by aqueous extraction from natural strains of said algae. They have long galactan chains, anionic polyelectrolytes. These linear polymers, formed by disaccharide units, are composed of two D-galactopyranose units alternately linked by a and f3 bonds. They are highly sulphated polysaccharides (20-50%) and the α-D-galactopyranosyl residues can be in the 3 ', 6'-anhydro form. Initially, carrageenans were subdivided into two families according to their solubility in KCl. Soluble fractions in KCl were designated by the prefixes "Kappa", while the terms "Lambda" were reserved for insoluble ones. Later, the classifications were based on the number, the position of sulphate groups as well as the presence of 3 ', 6'-anhydro bridge on the R-D-galactopyranosyl residues. This resulted in the four great families: K, À, [3, w, i. Carrageenans consist essentially of potassium, sodium, magnesium, triethanolamine and / or calcium salts and sulfate esters of polysaccharides.

For Kappa and iota forms, the addition of potassium ions or calcium ions is necessary to ensure the gelation and thus impact the viscosity. Indeed, the gelling mechanism has two major steps (Selim Kara, "Photon Transmission Study of Swallowing of Kappa-carrageenan gels prepared in various concentrations", International Journal of Biological Macromolecules, 33 (2003), 235-243) (Tommasina Coviello "Polysaccharide hydrogels for modified release formulations", Journal of Controlled release, 119 (2007), 5-24):

- the formation of propellers; the action of the cations induces the approximation of the helices and the formation of aggregates. The gelling mechanism therefore takes place.

In the compositions according to the invention, the iota carrageenan / kappa carrageenan ratio is greater than or equal to 1.5, preferably greater than or equal to 1.75, better still or equal to 2, in particular of the order of 2.3, The amount of each carrageenan can vary to a large extent, provided that the ratio is respected, and depends in particular on the desired viscosity and optionally other gelling agents present in the composition.

To give an order of magnitude, the iota carrageenan may be used in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably ranging from 0.2 to 10% and preferably from 0.4% to 5% by weight, and in particular from 0.4% to 1% by weight. Carrageenan kappa may be present in a content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5% and preferably from 0.15% to 1% by weight. % by weight, and in particular 0.2% to 0.7% by weight.

The total amount of iota and kappa carrageenans in the composition may range from 0.15 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 5% by weight. % by weight and even more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight As commercially available carrageenans, mention may be made of the following references: - GENUSVICO CARRAGEENAN TYPE CI-102 (kappa), GENUSVICO CARRAGEENAN TYPE CI-123 (Iota) CP KELCO; SATIAGEL CT 52 (Iota), SATIAGEL ME 5 (kappa), SATIAGEL UCT 508 (Iota), SATIAGEL UME 614 (kappa), SATIAGEL ABN 20 (kappa) from the company CARGILL; the gums sold by the company FMC under the trade names DanagelTM Gelcarin®, IsagelTM, Lactogel®, LactarinTM, SeaGel®, SeaKem® and Viscarin®, for example the following references: Gelcarin PC 379, Gelcarin PC 812, Gelcarin PC 911,

Viscarin PC 209, Viscarin TP 399 Viscarin PC 389, Gelcarin GP-379 NF, Gelcarin GP-812 NF, Gelcarin, GP-911 NF, Viscarin GP-109NF, SeaSpen PF. Aqueous medium The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous medium, that is to say a medium comprising a quantity of water of at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, more preferably at least 60% by weight and more preferably at least 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, up to 95% by weight. The amount of water in the composition may range from 40 to 95% by weight, preferably from 50 to 90% by weight, more preferably from 60 to 90% by weight, more preferably from 70 to 90% by weight with respect to total weight of the composition. The aqueous medium of the composition according to the invention may contain, in addition to water, one or more solvents chosen from lower alcohols containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, such as ethanol; and polyols. As polyols, mention may be made of glycerine; glycols such as butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycols such as PEG-8; sorbitol; propane diol, sugars such as glucose, fructose, maltose, lactose, sucrose; and their mixtures. The amount of solvent (s) in the composition of the invention may range, for example, from 0.5 to 30% by weight and preferably from 2 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Additional gelling agent

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one additional gelling agent (or thickener), distinct from the carrageenans, preferably chosen from gelling agents of natural origin or polysaccharides of biotechnological origin. This polysaccharide derived from the plant may be the case optionally be chemically modified to promote its hydrophilic valence, as is the case of cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkyl celluloses (eg hydroxyethylcellulose).

As examples of polysaccharides of vegetable origin that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of: a) extracts of algae, such as alginates, carrageenans, agar agars,

and their mixtures. As examples of carrageenans, mention may be made of Satiagum UTC30® and UTC10® from Degussa; as alginates, mention may be made of sodium alginate sold under the name Kelcosol® by the company ISP; (b) gums, such as guar gum and their nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum; agar gum, scleroglucan gums and mixtures thereof; as examples, mention may be made of guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP105® by the company Rhodia; mannan gum and konjac® (1% glucomannan) marketed by GfN; (c) modified or unmodified starches, such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, maize or rice, from vegetables such as sweet peas, tubers such as potatoes or cassava, tapioca starches ; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; as examples, mention may in particular be made of Remy DR 1® rice starch marketed by Remy; cornstarch B® from Roquette; potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide sold under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; the native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca pure® by the company National Starch; d) dextrins, such as dextrin extracted from corn under the name Index® from National Starch; e) celluloses and their derivatives, in particular alkyl or hydroxyalkyl celluloses; mention may in particular be made of methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses. As examples, mention may be made of cetyl hydroxyethyl cellulose under the names Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330® from Aqualon; f) pectins, g) chitosan and its derivatives, h) polyholosides comprising at least two monosaccharides, preferably of natural origin, and especially chosen from: - aldoses, such as: pentoses: ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiosis, for example, hexoses: glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose, for example, ketoses such as fructose,

deoxyoses, such as rhamnose, digitoxose, cymarose or oleandrose, derivatives of ose such as uronic acids such as mannuronic, guluronic, galacturonic or glucuronic acids, or else itols such as mannitol or sorbitol. Mention may in particular be made of the polysaccharide comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, and for example a linear sequence of α-Fucose, α-D-galactose and galacturonic acid, for example Fucogel 1000 PP® (SOLABIA company), i) anionic polysaccharides, in particular of biotechnological origin, such as the anionic polysaccharide having as a repeating unit a tetrasaccharide composed of L-fucose, D-glucose and glucuronic acid, such as that bearing the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum- 4 marketed under the reference GLYCOFILM 1.5P by Solabia. j) clays such as laponites and mixtures thereof.

The additional gelling agent may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight and better from 0.5 to 5% by weight.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1.5% by weight of synthetic thickening or gelling polymers, preferably less than 1%, better still less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.2%. in weight. It can be completely free of synthetic thickening or gelling polymers. Such synthetic polymers are, for example, acrylic polymers (Carbopol family), acrylic / alkyl acrylate copolymers or (co) polymers based on 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (for example the polymers sold under the name Pemulen). , Sepigel or Simulgel, Aristoflex).

surfactants

The composition according to the invention may comprise a surfactant chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, but only insofar as the presence of these surfactants does not affect the comfort (safety) of the composition.

Reference can be made to "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRKOTHMER", Vol. 22, p. 333-432, 5th edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, in particular p.347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. a) Anionic surfactants

The anionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin, amino acids and amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, sulphosuccinates and alkyls. sulfoacetates, phosphates and alkylphosphates, polypeptides, anionic alkyl polyglucoside derivatives, soaps (fatty acid salts), soybean oil derivatives, lactic acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

The anionic derivatives of plant-derived proteins are hydrophobic group protein hydrolysates, which hydrophobic group may be naturally present in the protein or may be added by reacting the protein and / or the protein hydrolyzate with a hydrophobic compound. . The proteins are of plant origin, and the hydrophobic group can be in particular a fatty chain, for example an alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

As anionic derivatives of plant-based proteins that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of hydrolysates of wheat, soy, oat or silk proteins, comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 25 22 carbon atoms and their salts. The alkyl chain may in particular be a lauryl chain and the salt may be a salt of sodium, potassium and / or ammonium. Mention may be made, for example, of sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts of lauric acid-modified silk protein hydrolysates, such as the product marketed under the name KAWA Silk by the company Kawaken; the sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts of wheat protein hydrolysates modified with lauric acid, such as the potassium salt marketed under the name AMINOFOAM W OR by the company Croda (CTFA name: Potassium lauroyl wheat aminoacids) and the sodium salt sold under the name PROTEOL LW 30 by the company Seppic (CTFA name: sodium lauroyl wheat aminoacids); the sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts of oat protein hydrolysates having an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and more particularly the sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts; lauric acid modified oat protein hydrolysates, such as

the sodium salt sold under the name PROTEOL OAT (CTFA name: Sodium lauroyl oat aminoacids), PROTEOL SAV 50S (INCI name: Sodium cocoyl aminoacid), PROTEOL APL (INCI name: sodium cocoyl apple amino acids) by the company Seppic , AMARANTH S (INCI name: sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed amaranth proteins) and mixtures thereof. As alkyl ether sulfates, mention may be made for example of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70/30) (2.2 OE) sold under the names Sipon AOS 225® or TEXAPON N702 PATE® by the company Cognis, lauryl ammonium ether sulfate (C12-14 70/30) (30E) sold under the name SIPON LEA 370® by Cognis, the alkyl (C12-C14) ether (90E) ammonium sulphate marketed under the name RHODAPEX AB / 200 denomination by Rhodia Chimie. As sulphonates, mention may be made, for example, of alpha-olefin sulphonates, such as sodium alpha-olefin sulphonate (C14-16) sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40® by Stepan, marketed under the names WITCONATE AOS PROTEGE And SULFRAMINE AOS PH 12® by the company Witco or sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG® by Stepan, the secondary sodium olefin sulfonate sold under the name Hostapur SAS 30® by the company Clariant; linear alkyl aryl sulphonates, such as sodium xylene sulphonate sold under the names MANROSOL SXS30®, MANROSOL SXS40® and MANROSOL SXS93® by the company Manro. Mention may also be made of the alkyl sulphoacetate mixture, for example lauryl sulphoacetate, for example that sold as a mixture with sodium methyl-2-sulpholaurate and sulpholaurate-2-disodium under the reference STEPAN MILD PCL by the company. Stepan.

As isethionates, mention may be made of acylisethionates, such as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name JORDAPON Cl P® by the company Jordan.

As taurates, mention may be made of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate marketed under the name HOSTAPON CT PATE® by the company Clariant; N-acyl N-methyltaurates, such as the sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate sold under the name HOSTAPON LT-SF® by the company Clariant or sold under the name NIKKOL CMT-30-T® by the company Nikkol,

palmitoyl sodium methyltaurate sold under the name NIKKOL PMT® by the company Nikkol. As sulfosuccinates, there may be mentioned, for example, the oxyethylenated (30E) lauryl alcohol (C12 / C14 70/30) monosulphosuccinate sold under the names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL® and REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 4® by the company Witco , the di-sodium salt of a hemi-sulfosuccinate of C12-C14 alcohols, marketed under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE® by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, the oxyethylenated (20E) di-sodium oleamide sulfosuccinate sold under the name Standapol SH 135® by the company Cognis, the oxyethylenated lauric amide monosulfinate (50E) marketed under the name LEBON A-5000® by the company Sanyo, the di-sodium salt of oxyethylenated lauryl citrate monosulfinate (10 OE) ) marketed under the name REWOPOL SB CS 50® by the company Witco, the di-sodium salt of lauric alcohol monosulfosuccinate sold under the name REWOPOL SB F12P0 by the company Witco, the mono-sulfosuccinat ricinoleic mono-ethanolamide sold under the name REWODERM S 1333® by the company Witco. As phosphates and alkylphosphates, mention may be made, for example, of monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl mono-phosphate sold under the name MAP 20® by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecylphosphoric acid, mixture of mono- and di-ester (majority diester) marketed under the name CRAFOL AP-31® by Cognis, the mixture of monoester and octylphosphoric acid di-ester, sold under the name CRAFOL AP-20® by Cognis, the mixture of monoester and ethoxylated 2-butyloctanol phophoric acid diester (7 moles of EO), sold under the name ISOFOL 12 7 EO-PHOSPHATE ESTER® by Condea, potassium salt or triethanolamine monoalkyl (C12-C13) phosphate sold under the references ARLATONE MAP 230K-40® and ARLATONE MAP 230T-60® by the company Uniqema, potassium lauryl phosphate marketed under the denomination DERMALCARE MAP XC-99 / 09® by the company Rhodia Chimie. The anionic derivatives of alkyl-polyglucosides can be in particular citrates, tartrates, sulphosuccinates, carbonates and glycerol ethers obtained from alkyls.

polyglucosides. Mention may be made, for example, of the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) tartaric ester, sold under the name EUCAROL AGE-ET® by the company Cesalpinia, the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside sulfosuccinic ester (1,4). ), marketed under the name ESSAI 512 MP® by the company Seppic, the sodium salt of citric ester cocoyl polyglucoside (1,4) sold under the name EUCAROL AGE-EC® by the company Cesalpinia.

In particular, the anionic surfactants may be chosen from soaps (fatty acid salts), derivatives of soybean oil, lactic acid derivatives, amino acids, acylamino acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof.

The soaps are obtained from a fatty acid which is partially or totally saponified (neutralized) with a basic agent. These are alkali or alkaline-earth metal soaps or organic bases. As fatty acids, it is possible to use saturated, linear or branched fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. This fatty acid may in particular be chosen from palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid and mixtures thereof. As basic agents, it is possible to use, for example, alkali metal hydroxides (sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide), alkaline earth metal hydroxides (for example magnesium), ammonium hydroxide, or even organic bases such as triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine. The soaps may be in particular alkali salts of fatty acid, the basic agent being an alkali metal hydroxide, and preferably potassium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide (KOH). The amount of basic agent must be sufficient for the fatty acid to be at least partially neutralized. Mention may in particular be made of sodium or potassium laurate, potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, potassium stearate, potassium cocoate or stearic acid salts of KOH formed in situ.

The derivatives of soybean oil and their salts are in particular the fatty acids and salts of fatty acids derived from soybean oil (whose INCI name is "glycine soybean oil" or "soybean oil") and in particular alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, and fatty acids derived from soybean, such as potassium soyate such as for example that marketed by the company Noveon, As acylamino acids, it is possible to mention, for example, the sodium cocoylglycinate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCS-12, the sodium cocoylglycinate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCK-12, the cocoyl glutamate of disodium marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft ECS-22SB, lauroyl sodium glutamate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft LS11, lauroyl sodium sarcosinate marketed by the company Seppic under the name ORAMIX L 30, the sodium and disodium stearoyl glutamate sold by Ajinomoto under the trade names Amisoft HS21 P and HS11 Pf and the sodium cocoyl sarcosinate marketed by the company ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ under the name Protelan LS 9011 / C. Mention may also be made of the sodium salt of lauroyl amino acids of oats such as Proteol OAT marketed by the company Seppic or the compound bearing the INCI name sodium cocoyl aminoacids such as Proteol SAV 5OS from Seppic.

The amino acid derivatives may be chosen for example from sarcosinates and in particular acylsarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name SARKOSYL NL 97® by the company Ciba or marketed under the name ORAMIX L 30® by the company Seppic, myristoyl sodium sarcosinate, sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN® by the company Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN® by the company Nikkol; alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name Sodium Nikol alkanate LN 30® by the company Nikkol or marketed under the name Alanone Ale® by the company Kawaken, and N-lauroyl N-methylalanine triethanolamine, marketed under the name ALANONE ALTA® by the company Kawaken; N-acylglutamates such as triethanolamine mono-cocoylglutamate sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE CT-12® by Ajinomoto, and triethanolamine lauroylglutamate sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12® by Ajinomoto, cocoyl-glutamate. triethanolamine sold under the name Amisoft CT-12® by Ajinomoto; aspartates such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroylaspartate and triethanolamine N-myristoylaspartate, sold under the name ASPARACK® by the company Mitsubishi; citrates.

The lactic acid derivatives or their salts may be chosen from acyl lactylic acid derivatives, their salts (lactylates) such as stearoyl lactylate such as for example that marketed by Oleon NV under the name Radiamuls 2980; sodium

stearoyl lactylate as proposed for example by the company Oleon NV under the name Radiamuls 2990, by the company Karlshamns AB under the name Akoline SL, by the company Uniquema under the name Priazul 2134 or by Dr. Straetmans under the name Dermofeel SL; sodium isostearoyl lactylate such as that marketed by Uniquema under the name Priazul 2133; sodium behenoyl lactylate, for example, sold by Rita Corporation under the name Pationic SBL; sodium cocoyl lactylate such as that sold by the company Rita under the name Pationic SCL, sodium oleoyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate (PATIONIC 138C Caravan), sodium caproyl lactylate (CAPMUL S8L-G Abitec).

Mention may also be made of cocoamphoacetate sodium, glycerin, lauryl glucoside, sodium cocoylglutamate, lauryl glucose sodium carboxylate sold by Cognis under the reference Plantapon SF. (b) Amphoteric surfactants

Amphoteric surfactants (this term including amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants) may be chosen, for example, from betaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives, derivatives of glycine, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, alkylamphoacetates and mixtures thereof.

As betaines, there may be mentioned in particular alkylbetaines such as cocobetaine such as the product sold under the name DEHYTON AB-30® by the company Cognis, laurylbetaine as the product sold under the name GENAGEN KB® by the company Clariant, laurylbetaine oxyethylenated (10 OE), such as the product sold under the name LAURYLETHER (10 OE) BETAINE® by the company Shin Nihon Rica, stearyl betaine oxyethylenated (10 OE) as the product sold under the name STEARYLETHER (10 OE) BETAINE® by the company Shin Nihon Rica company.

Among the N-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives, mention may be made, for example, of cocamidopropyl betaine marketed under the name LEBON 2000 HG® by the company Sanyo, under the name EMPIGEN BB® by the company Albright & Wilson, under the names Tego Betain F 50 and CK D by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, or those marketed in combination with glyceryl lauratec as trade references Tego Betain HS or Antil HS 60 EVONIK

GOLDSCHMIDT, lauramidopropyl betaine sold under the name REWOTERIC AMB12P® by the company Witco.

As sultaines, there may be mentioned cocoylamidopropylhydroxy-sulfobetaine marketed under the name CROSULTAINE C-50® by the company Croda.

As alkyl polyaminocarboxylates (APAC), mention may be made of sodium cocoylpolyamino carboxylate, sold under the name AMPHOLAK 7 CX / C®, and AMPHOLAK 7 CX® by the company Akzo Nobel, the sodium stearyl-polyamidocarboxylate sold under the name AMPHOLAK. 7 TX / C by Akzo Nobel, sodium carboxymethylolpropylamine, marketed under the name AMPHOLAK XO7 / C® by the company Akzo Nobel.

As alkylamphoacetates, mention may be made, for example, of N-cocoyl-N-carboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-di-sodium (CTFA name: disodium cocamphodiacetate), such as the product marketed under the name MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRA NP® by the company Rhodia Chemistry, and N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-sodium (CTFA name: sodium cocamphoacetate). b) Nonionic surfactants

The nonionic surfactants may be chosen for example from alkyl polyglucosides (APG), maltose esters, sucrose esters, hydrophobic gums, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, glyceryl esters of fatty acids, glycerol esters oxyalkylenated esters, oxyalkylenated sugar esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, fatty acid and sorbitan esters, glucamine derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-n-methylglucamine, and their mixtures.

As alkylpolyglucosides, use is preferably made of those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a hydrophilic group (glucoside) preferably comprising 1.2 to 3 units of saccharide. . Mention may be made, for example, of decylglucoside (Alkyl-C9 / Cl-polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product sold under the name MYDOL 10® by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP® by the company Cognis, and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by the company Seppic; caprylyl / capryl glucoside as the product marketed

under the name ORAMIX CG 110® by the company Seppic or PLANTACARE 810 P by the company Cognis; laurylglucoside, such as the products sold under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N® and PLANTACARE 1200® by the company Cognis; and coco-glucoside, such as the product sold under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP® by the company Cognis, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally in a mixture with cetostearyl alcohol, sold for example under the name Montanov 68 by the company Seppic under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by the company Seppic; cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35/65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under the name Montanov 82 by the company Seppic, the C12 to C20 alkyl glucosides such as those sold in admixture with fatty alcohols; C14 to C22 under the reference MONTANOV L by the company Seppic.

The oxyalkylenated glycerol esters are in particular the polyoxyethylenated derivatives of glyceryl and fatty acid esters and their hydrogenated derivatives. These oxyalkylenated glycerol esters may be chosen, for example, from glyceryl esters of hydrogenated and oxyethylenated fatty acids, such as PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate sold under the name Rewoderm LI-S 80 by the company Goldschmidt; oxyethylenated glyceryl cocoates such as PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate sold under the name Tegosoft GC by the company Goldschmidt, and PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate sold under the name Rewoderm LI-63 by the company Goldschmidt; and their mixtures.

The oxyalkylenated sugar esters are in particular the polyethylene glycol ethers of the fatty acid and sugar esters. These oxyalkylenated sugar esters may be chosen for example from oxyethylenated glucose esters such as PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate sold under the name Glucamate DOE 120 by the company Amerchol.

The fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol are preferably esters of C16-C22 fatty acids containing from 8 to 100 ethylene oxide units.

The fatty chain of the esters may in particular be chosen from stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl and cetyl units and their mixtures such as cetearyl and, preferably, a stearyl chain.

The number of ethylene oxide units can range from 8 to 100, preferably from 10 to 80, and better still from 10 to 50. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, this number can range from 20 to By way of example of fatty acid ester and of polyethylene glycol, mention may be made of stearic acid esters comprising, respectively, 20, 30, 40, 50, 100 ethylene oxide units, such as product sold respectively under the name Myrj 49 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 20 OE, CTFA name: PEG-20 stearate), Myrj 51, Myrj 52 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 40 OE, CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), Myrj 53 , Myrj 59 P by the company CRODA.

The esters of C16-C22 fatty acids and of sorbitan are in particular esters of C16-C22 acids and of sorbitan and are formed by esterification of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain. having respectively from 16 to 22 carbon atoms with sorbitol. These esters may especially be chosen from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, sorbitan oleates, and mixtures thereof. Sorbitan stearates and palmitates, and preferably sorbitan stearates, are preferably used. By way of example of sorbitan ester which may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan stearate) sold by Croda under the name Span 60, sorbitan tristearate sold by the company. Croda company under the name Span 65 V, the sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: Sorbitan palmitate) sold by Croda under the name Span 40, the sorbitan monoleate sold by Croda under the name Span 80 V, the trioleate sorbitan sold by Uniquema under the name Span 85 V. Preferably, the sorbitan ester used is sorbitan tristearate.

The esters of glyceryl and fatty acid can be obtained in particular from an acid having a linear saturated alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. As glycerol ester and fatty acid, there may be mentioned glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate) (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the glyceryl ester of fatty acid used is chosen from glyceryl stearates. Mention may also be made of the mixture of glyceryl stearate and of polyethylene glycol 100 0E monostearate, and in particular that comprising a 50/50 mixture, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Croda.

As sucrose esters, mention may be made of sucrose esters of fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, said esters possibly comprising from 2 to 5 fatty chains, such as, for example, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose laurate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose myristate and mixtures thereof. Mention may in particular be made of sucrose cocoate such as TEGOSOFT PSE from GOLDSCHMIDT, sucrose myristate such as Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods Corp.'s Surfhope SE COSME C-1416, sucrose laurate such as Surfhope SE COSME C-1216, sucrose laurate such as Surfhope SE COSME C-1215L, the mixture of sucrose esters and palmitic and / or stearic acids (INCI name sucrose palmitate) as sold under the reference Surfhope SE COSME C-1616. Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sucrose: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 by the company CRODESTA, respectively denoting sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% monoester; % di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetra. -ester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name RYOTO SUGAR ESTERS, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; the sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name TEGOSOFT PSE.

Hydrophobic or hydrophobic modified gum means a gum modified with hydrophobic chains, in particular modified by grafting hydrophobic chains on the hydrophilic skeleton of the gum. There may be mentioned, for example, gum arabic proposed under the name EMULSIFYING 500 A or 500 L by the company Alland & Robert, the arabinogalactan gum proposed under the name Laracare A200 by the company Lonza, scleroglucan gum as proposed by company Alban Muller under the reference Amigel Granule, the cellulose proposed by the company under the reference Cellulose Water Dispersion (4/96) by the company DAIICHI KOGYO SEIYAKU, the pectin and dextrose mixture marketed by Cargill under the reference Unipectine OF 600C, natural branched polysaccharides such as Soliance's Biolygel, lauryl inulin carbamate (Inutec SPI from Orafti).

Particularly suitable nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglucosides (APG), sucrose esters, hydrophobed gums and mixtures thereof.

c) Cationic surfactants

The cationic surfactants that can be used according to the present invention are in particular the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts; imidazoline derivatives; cationic amine oxides, and / or a mixture thereof.

The quaternary ammonium salts are, for example: those which have the following general formula (IV): ## STR2 ## in which the radicals R 1 to R 4, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical, linear or branched, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens. The aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), alkylamide, (C12-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl, (C12-C22) alkylacetate, hydroxyalkyl, with about from 1 to 30 carbon atoms; X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C2-C6) alkyl sulphates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulphonates, preferably R, and R2 denotes a C1-C4 alkyl or a C1-hydroxyalkyl; C4.

The quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium, for example that of formula (V) below: R6

Embedded image wherein R 5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from coconut fatty acids, R 6 represents a 10 + CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R 8) -CO-R 5 atom; X-15 of hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R 1 represents a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, R 8 represents a hydrogen atom, a radical C1-C4 alkyl, X- is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkylsulfates, alkyl-or-alkylarylsulfonates.

Preferably, R 5 and R 6 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R denotes methyl and R 8 denotes hydrogen. the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (VI): embedded image , R11, R12, R13 and R14, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulphates .

the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, for example those of the following formula (VII): (CrH 2 R 0) z R 2 (R 2) C (C 1 H 2n) N (CpH 2 PO 2) x R 16 R 15 in which: R 15 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl radicals and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals; R16 is chosen from: O-leradical R19ùC- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon radicals R20; a hydrogen atom, R18 is chosen from: O - the radical R21 C - the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon radicals R 22, R 17 and R 21, identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon radicals; n, p and r, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer of 1; at 10; - x and z, identical or different, are integers from 0 to 10; - X- is an anion simple or complex, organic or inorganic; Provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R16 is R20 and when z is 0 then R18 is R22. The alkyl radicals R15 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably R15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R16 is a hydrocarbon radical R20, it may be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms. When R 18 is a hydrocarbon radical R 22, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R17, R19 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, n, p and r, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The X- anion is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate.

More particularly, the ammonium salts of formula (VII) in which: R 15 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical, - x and y are equal to 1; z is 0 or 1; n, p and r are 2; - R16 is chosen from: O - the radical R19 - C - methyl, ethyl or hydrocarbon radicals C14-C22 - the hydrogen atom; - R18 is chosen from: O - the radical R21ùC - - the hydrogen atom;

R17, R19 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon radicals and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear.

Of the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV), tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred. , in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name "CERAPHYL 70" by the company VAN DYK. There may be mentioned, for example, the compounds of formula (V) such as the salts (in particular chloride or methyl sulphate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethyl ammonium, of diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, of triacyloxyethyl methyl ammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethyl ammonium and their mixtures. The acyl radicals preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl radical, the latter may be identical or different. 21

These products are obtained for example by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin or by transesterification of their esters methyl. This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (methyl or preferably ethyl), methyl methanesulphonate, methyl paratoluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are for example sold under the names DEHYQUART by the company COGNIS, STEPANQUAT by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by the company CECA, REWOQUAT WE 18 and REWOQUAT W75 by the company DEGUSSA. It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

Quaternary diammonium salts of formula (VI) that are suitable for the invention include, in particular, propane diammonium dichloride.

The surfactants that may be used in the composition according to the invention may in particular be nonionic surfactants, and in particular surfactants of natural origin, in which compounds which may be present in nature and which are reproduced by synthesis are included. chemical. They may be chosen in particular from the soaps (fatty acid salts), the soy oil derivatives, the lactic acid derivatives, the sugar and fatty acid esters, the glycerol or polyglycerol esters and fatty acid comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, amino acids, acylamino acids, their salts, alkyl polyglucosides (APG), hydrophobized gums and their mixtures. Mention may also be made of anionic surfactants chosen from acylamino acid salts such as glutamates, glycinates, lactic acid derivatives or their salts, such as lactylates, citrates and their mixtures.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from glycerol or polyglycerol and fatty acid esters comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 atoms. carbon, such as lauric acid.

The surfactant may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight and better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight. in weight.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one foaming agent chosen from saponins such as saponins extracted from soap trees (Sapindus mukurossi, Sapindus trifoliatus), licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra), horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum). , Bacoppa (Baccopa monneria), Sarsaparilla (Smilax medica, Smilax aspera, Smilax ornata), Panama wood (Quillaja saponaria), Saponaria (Saponaria officinalis), Ginseng (Panax ginseng), Yucca (Yucca schidigera), Maltese cross (Tribulus terrestris), Juazirine (Zizyphus joazeiro), Jiaogulan (Gynostemma pentaphyllum), Indian asparagus (Asparagus racemosus, Alfalfa (Medicago sativa) and mixtures thereof.

The saponins may be present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.2 to 15%, and more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight. Oil The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil (fat that is liquid at room temperature (20-25 ° C.)) which forms all or part of the fatty phase of the composition. The oil may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils, of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. These oils are physiologically acceptable. As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; Hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides such as those marketed by company Stearineries Dubois ou20

those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, especially of fatty acids: the fatty esters may be chosen for example from those obtained from a straight chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohol containing from 1 to 24 carbon atoms and a linear or branched chain fatty acid having 3 to 24 carbon atoms. As fatty esters, mention may be made, for example, of 2-ethylhexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), ethyl laurate, butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, laurate and laurate. isohexyl, isopropyl laurate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, butyl myristate, isobutyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyl dodecyl myristate, ethyl monococoate 2-hexyl (or octyl monococoate), methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate), butyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, 2-ethyl hexyl stearate (or octyl stearate), isopropyl isostearate, isocetyl stearate, isostearate isotearyl, 2-ethylhexyl pelargonate (or octyl pelargonate), 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (or octyl hydroxystearate), decyl oleate, di-isopropyl adipate, 2-diethyl hexyl adipate (or di-octyl adipate), diisocetyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl succinate (octyl succinate), diisopropyl sebacate, ethyl-2 malate hexyl (or octyl malate), pentaerythritol caprate / caprylate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate (octyl hexanoate), octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, neopentanoate isostearyl, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, lauryl lactate, lactate myristyl, cetyl lactate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethyl hexyl hexanoate (or octyl 2-ethyl hexanoate), 2-ethyl hexyl octanoate (or octyl octanoate) ), cetyl ethyl-2-hexanoate, tetraisostearate pentaerythritol, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (Eldew SL 205 from Unipex), dicaprylyl carbonate ( Cetiol CC from Cognis), benzoates of C12-C15 fatty alcohols (Finsolv TN from Finetex). As fatty ethers, mention may be made of Dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis). linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil;

volatile linear alkanes, preferably of plant origin, comprising from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 14 carbon atoms. They may have a flash point in the range of 30 to 120 ° C, and more preferably 40 to 100 ° C and are preferably liquid at room temperature (about 25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). ). By way of example of a linear volatile alkane which is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (distinct alkane mixtures and differing from at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil. By way of example of a linear alkane which is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), ntridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (Cl1) and n-tridecane (C13) described in example 1 of the application WO2008 / 155059 of the Cognis Company, and the mixture n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, respectively dodecane and tetradecane linear and their mixtures.

It is possible to use the volatile linear alkane alone or as a mixture of at least two different volatile alkanes and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1, and in particular a mixture of at least two volatile linear alkanes comprising 10 to 15 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of linear volatile C1 1 / C13 alkanes or a mixture of volatile linear C12 / C14 alkanes, in a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture (such a mixture may be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155059), the partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based fluorinated oils, such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular volatile silicone oils, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane and cyclopentadimethylsiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones,

diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures.

There may be mentioned in particular the oils chosen from vegetable oils or of plant origin. The oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 70% by weight.

The fatty phase of the composition may also comprise any usual liposoluble or lipodispersible additive, for example other fatty substances such as waxes, pasty compounds, fatty alcohols or fatty acids.

The cosmetic compositions of the invention may, in addition, contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field, such as antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, perfume peptizers, dyestuffs, fillers, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents. The nature of the adjuvants and their amounts must be such that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention. The amounts of these adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field and, for example, from 0.001 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

As active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of soothing agents such as allantoin and bisabolol; floral waters such as linden water or cornflower water; glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts; antibacterials such as octopirox, triclosan and triclocarban; essential oils ; vitamins such as for example retinol (vitamin A), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), tocopherol (vitamin E), niacinamide (vitamin PP or B3), panthenol (vitamin B5) and their derivatives such as by examples are the esters of these vitamins (palmitate, acetate, propionate), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosylated vitamin C or glucopyranosyl ascorbic acid (Ascorbyl glucoside); coenzymes such as coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone and coenzyme R or biotin; protein hydrolysates; plant extracts and in particular plankton extracts; and their mixtures.

Of course, one skilled in the art will take care to choose the optional additive (s) to be added to the composition according to the invention in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the proposed addition.

As fillers, mention may be made of mineral fillers such as talc or magnesium silicate (particle size: 5 microns) sold under the name LUZENAC M00® by the company LUZENAC, kaolin or aluminum silicate such as for example that marketed under the name denomination KAOLIN SUPREME® by the company IMERYS, or organic fillers such as starch, for example the product marketed under the name AMIDON DE MAIS B® by the company ROQUETTE, and nylon microspheres sold under the name ORGASOL 2002 UD. NAT COS® by ATOCHEM, cellulose beads such as DAITO KASEI KYOGO's Cellulobeads D-10, lauroyl lysine, micronized powders of plants (such as lychee, cranberry, coconut) such as those marketed under the Microzest denomination by the company Lessonia, cork powder, microspheres based on vinylidene chloride / Acrylo copolymer nitrile / methacrylonitrile enclosing isobutane, expanded as those sold under the name Expancel 551 DE® by Expancel.

Fibers such as, for example, nylon fibers (POLYAMIDE 0.9 DTEX 0.3 MM sold by PAUL BONTE Establishments, cellulose fibers or "Rayonne" (CORN FLOCK RAKE NO003 MO4®) marketed by the Company, can also be added to the composition of the invention. CLAREMONT FLOCK CORPORATION), bamboo fiber.

The compositions according to the invention are intended to be applied to keratinous substances such as the skin (body, face, eyes, scalp) and / or ketatinic fibers and may constitute in particular care products, make-up products, make-up removers or cleaning keratin materials, or hair products.

Another subject of the invention is a cosmetic process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials such as the skin, including the scalp, keratinous fibers such as eyelashes, hair, and / or lips, characterized in that a cosmetic composition as defined above is applied to said keratin materials.

The following examples are given by way of illustration of the invention and are not limiting in nature. All amounts are given in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The names of the compounds are indicated according to the case in chemical names or in INCI names. EXAMPLES Example 1 to 4 Comparative The following aqueous gels were prepared: Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 (Comparative) (Comparative) (Comparative) (Invention) Iota Carrageenan (Genuvisco 1% - 0.5% 0.7% Carrageenan type C CP KELCO 123) Kappa carrageenan 1% 0.5% 0.3% (Satiagel UME 614- CARGILL) Potassium chloride - 0.3% 0.15% 0.09 Calcium chloride 0.2% - 0.1% 0, 14 Procedure:

- Heat the water to 60 ° C - add the carrageenans and salts 20 - cool with stirring

The appearance of each composition was evaluated and the viscosity of each was measured according to the protocol indicated above, after preparation of the composition at 25 ° C. and after 2 months at a temperature of 45 ° C. Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 (Comparative) (Comparative) (Comparative) (Invention) Appearance Thick Gel, Brittle Gel, Soft Gel, Soft Gel, Transparent, Fairly Soft, Translucent, Translucent to Translucent To Cassant Gel presence of transparent, and viscosity presence of clusters 0.9 Pa.s (9 Ps) lumps, 1 Pa.s (10 Ps) of cluster, property property of suspension suspension 0.6 Pa.s (6 Ps) 0 , 75 Pa.s (7.5 Ps) Stability and after Fluidification Syneresis of the gel Fluidification Stable 2 months at 45 ° C important 0.4 Pa.s (4 Ps) 0.13 Pa.s 0.75 Pa.s ( 7.5 Ps) and 0.065 Pa.s (1.3 Ps) viscosity (0.6 Ps) Only the combination Iota and Kappa carrageenan in a ratio of 30/70 of Example 4 according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a soft gel, translucent and stable over time.

In addition, sensory evaluation by touching the gel hand shows good cosmetic properties: softness on application and absence of tackiness.

Examples 5 and 6 The following aqueous gels were prepared: EXAMPLE 4 Example 5 (Invention) (Comparative) Iota Carrageenan 0.7% 0.7% Genuvisco Carrageenan Type CI-123 from CP KELCO) Kappa Carrageenan 0.3% 0, 9% (CARGILL UME 614 Satiagel) Potassium chloride 0.09% 0.21% Calcium chloride 0.14% 0.18% The appearance of each composition was evaluated and the viscosity of each was measured according to the protocol. indicated above, after preparation of the composition at 25 ° C.

Example 4 (Comparative) Example 5 (Comparative) Example 4 according to the invention makes it possible to obtain a smooth and homogeneous gel, unlike the gel of Comparative Example 5, which is non-homogeneous and has lumps.

Example 7 Cream Gel Phase% A Water Qsp100 Preservative 0.15 Potassium Sorbate 0.2 B Decaglyceryl Monolaurate 1 Grapefruit Essential Oil 0.20 C Glycerin 5 Calcium Chloride 0.122 Potassium Chloride 0.072 Iota Carrageenan (Genuvisco carragheenan type CI- 123 0.56 of CP KELCO) Kappa carrageenan (Satiagel UME 614 from CARGILL) 0.24 D Ethanol 3 E Cellulose fiber (RCIBE N0003 02M from CLAREMONT 1 FLOCK) Procedure: - Prepare phase B. In final beaker, introduce phase A hot. - Then introduce the phase B then C then D and finally E. - Let stir then 20 min with stirring. - Adjust the weight with water and pH Example 8: Cream Gel Phase% A Water Qsp100 Preservative 0.15 Potassium Sorbate 0.2 B Decaglyceryl Monolaurate 1 Grapefruit Essential Oil 0.20 Translucent granular gel, brittle, non-homogeneous , many clusters 1.9 Pa.s Soft gel, transparent, translucent suspension with Aspect and viscosity of the gel at To property of 0.75 Pa.s 10 C Glycerin 5 Calcium chloride 0.112 Potassium chloride 0.072 Iota carrageenan (Genuvisco caragheenan type CI-123 0.56 from CP KELCO) Kappa carrageenan (Satiagel UME 614 from CARGILL) 0.24 D Ethanol 3 E Kaolin 1 Procedure: - Prepare phase B. In final beaker, introduce phase A while warm. 5 - Then introduce the phase B then C then D and finally E. - Let stir then 20 min with stirring. Adjusting the weight with water and pH Example 9: Foaming composition The following composition can be produced: Phase% A Water Qsp100 preservative 0.35 Potassium sorbate 0.2 B Polyglyceryl-10 laurate 1 Grapefruit essential oil 0.20 C Glycerin 5 Calcium chloride 0.112 Potassium chloride 0.072 Iota carrageenan (Genuvisco carragheenan type CI-123 0.56 from CP KELCO) Kappa carrageenan (Satiagel UME 614 from CARGILL) 0.24 D Gum acacia 0.3 E Water 25 Sucrose laurate (7 MITSUBISHI-KAGAKU FOODS SE COSMETIC SURFHOPE C-1216) Sapindus 10 Mukurossi dry fruit skin extract (MUKUROSSI EXTRACT POWDER from MARUZEN) Citric acid qs pH 5.5 NaOH qs pH 5.5 Procedure: In Final beaker, introduce phase A. Then introduce phase B then C quickly after, D and finally E. Leave to agitate so that the acacia gum is well hydrated. Adjust the weight with water and pH to 5.5 + 1- 0.3

Claims (12)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable aqueous medium, a gum of iota carrageenan and a gum of kappa carrageenan in a ratio iota carrageenan / kappa carrageenan greater than or equal to 1.5. 2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the iota carrageenan / kappa carrageenan ratio is greater than or equal to 1.75, better still or equal to 2, in particular of the order of 2.3, which can be up to and better until. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the total amount of iota and kappa carrageenans ranges from 0.15 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight. weight, more preferably from 0.4 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.5% to 2% by weight 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the iota carrageenan is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.2 to 10%, preferably from 0.4% to 5% by weight, and in particular from 0.4% to 1% by weight. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the kappa carrageenan is present in a content ranging from 0.05 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 5%, preferably from 0.15% to 1% by weight, and in particular from 0.2% to 0.7% by weight. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an additional gelling agent. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the additional gelling agent is chosen from gelling agents of natural origin or polysaccharides of biotechnological origin. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the additional gelling agent is chosen from: a) extracts of algae, such as alginates, carrageenans, agar agars, and mixtures thereof, gums, such as guar gum and their nonionic derivatives, gum arabic, konjac gum or mannan, tragacanth gum, ghatti gum, karaya gum, locust bean gum; agar gum, scleroglucan gums and mixtures thereof; (b) modified or unmodified starches; (c) dextrins; d) celluloses and their derivatives, in particular alkyl or hydroxyalkyl celluloses; e) pectins, f) chitosan and its derivatives, g) polyholosides comprising at least two monosaccharides, preferably of natural origin, and especially chosen from: - aldoses, such as: pentoses: ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiosis, for example, hexoses: glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose, for example, ketoses such as fructose, deoxyoses, such as rhamnose, digitoxose, cymarose or oleandrose, derivatives of oses such as uronic acids such as mannuronic, guluronic, galacturonic or glucuronic acids, or itols such as mannitol or sorbitol. and their mixtures. 9. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional gelling agent is present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one surfactant chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from esters of glycerol or polyglycerol and of fatty acid comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms. carbon, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms. 20 12. Process for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous materials, characterized in that a cosmetic composition according to one of Claims 1 to 11 is applied to said keratin materials.