FR2983728A1 - Composition, useful for skin and hair care and for treating keratinous material including mucosa, lips, scalp, eyelashes and eyebrows, comprises a combination of konjac mannan and gellan in a specified weight ratio - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprises a combination of konjac mannan and gellan, where the weight ratio between konjac mannan and gellan is 25:75-45:55.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of the manufacture of cosmetic compositions. In general, the cosmetic compositions are useful for improving or protecting the appearance of the human body. The cosmetic compositions include compositions intended for caring for and / or making up keratin materials. For the purpose of the invention, the term "keratin materials" is intended to include the skin, the mucous membranes, the lips, the scalp, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the hair. The cosmetic compositions include shampoos, skin care creams, lotions, powders, perfumes, lipstick compositions, nail polishes, face and eye makeup compositions, compositions capillary permeation, hair dyeing compositions, hairsprays and hair gels, deodorants, baby products, bath oils, bubble bath products, bath salts, or cosmetic butters such as compositions based on cocoa butter.

A large number of cosmetic compositions are in the form of emulsions, which must remain stable both during the storage period and after application to the body. In order to control the viscosity or the stability of the cosmetic compositions, it is conventionally resorted to hydrocolloid substances which have the capacity to fix and retain the water at a multiple of their weight. These hydrocolloids induce a thickening of the cosmetic compositions. As hydrocolloids, predominantly organopolymers such as crosslinked polyacylates (also referred to as "carbomers") are used. However, for the manufacture of cosmetic compositions, there is a growing interest in the use of natural substances, in particular natural substances of plant origin. The substitution of substances obtained by chemical synthesis with natural substances concerns various components of a cosmetic composition, that is to say both the cosmetic active principles and the various excipients. Natural stabilizing or thickening agents are known, such as than fatty alcohols or vegetable gums.

However, the experiment illustrates that the natural stabilizing or thickening agents currently used do not make it possible to obtain cosmetic compositions, including cosmetic compositions in the form of emulsion or butter, having the desired viscosity properties. Cosmetic compositions based on thickeners and / or natural stabilizers often have an undesirable effect of soap, that is to say, generate a persistent white film on the surface of the skin. When a fatty alcohol or a combination of fatty alcohols is added to thicken cosmetic compositions, especially cosmetic compositions in the form of an emulsion, the desired level of viscosity is attained only for a large quantity of alcohol (s). ) fat, which helps to increase the soap effect, which substantially reduces the penetration properties through the skin and is particularly unsightly.

When known natural polymers are added, even in large quantities, the desired level of thickening or viscosity can not generally be achieved, which leads to a low stability of the final cosmetic composition. Known natural polymers include celluloses, starches, xanthan gum, guar gum, locust bean gum, scleroglucan gum, carrageenan or pectin.

In addition, the use of the amount of natural polymer (s) which allows a significant increase in the viscosity of a cosmetic composition simultaneously leads to a loss of the texture properties, which is manifested by a running behavior during the application on keratinous materials and by linting of the composition, in particular on the surface of the skin.

There is a need in the state of the art for the availability of cosmetic compositions based on natural substances, which have the desired viscosity or stability without causing undesirable property, in particular without causing soap or lint effect when its application on the skin or on keratinous fibers. Unexpectedly, it is shown according to the invention that cosmetic compositions having the desired viscosity level, and not having the above disadvantages, can be prepared by adding a combination of konjac mannan and gellan, in defined proportions. Unexpectedly, it is also shown according to the invention that the desired viscosity properties of a cosmetic composition are obtained by the addition of a reduced amount of such a combination of konjac mannan and gellan.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a combination of konjac mannan (or KGM) and gellan in a KGM / gellane weight ratio ranging from 25/75 to 45/55. The invention also relates to the use of a combination of konjac mannan (also called "KGM") and gellan in a KGM / gellane weight ratio ranging from 25/75 to 45/55 to adjust the viscosity of a composition cosmetic. The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials comprising applying to said keratin materials a cosmetic composition as defined above.

Within the scope of the invention, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are within this range. It has been shown according to the invention that the use of the combination of konjac mannan and gellan in weight ratios respectively higher or lower than the weight ratio prescribed above does not allow to generate the desired viscosity properties. Thus, the results of the examples show that a combination of konjac mannan and gellan in a mannan ratio of konjac / gellan greater than 45/55, for example in a weight ratio of 50/50, leads to the obtaining of a composition having a low level of viscosity.

Also, the results of the examples show that a combination of Konjac mannan and gellan in a mannan Konjac / Gellan weight ratio below 25/75 also leads to a composition having a low viscosity level. Surprisingly, it is shown according to the invention a synergistic effect of a combination of konjac mannan and gellan, in the weight ratio range defined above, on the viscosity properties of a composition, and more specifically viscosity properties of a cosmetic composition. By "synergistic effect" is meant according to the invention that the effect on the viscosity of the combination of konjac and gellan, at a given amount by weight of said combination, is greater than the addition of the effects of the same amount. given weight of each of the two compounds used alone. The use of Konjac mannan or gellan has already been described in cosmetic compositions.

In addition, combined uses of konjac and gellan are already known in the state of the art. For example, combinations of konjac and gellan have been used in the field of the food industry. Nishinari et al. (1998, Gekkan Fudo Kemikaru, Coden: GFKEEX - ISSN: 0911-2286, Vol 14 (4): 75-82) have described the use of konjac and gellan as texturizing agents for agro-food products. Beverages based on a suspension of konjac particles have also been described, the maintenance of the konjac particles in suspension being at least partly obtained by the presence of gellan (see Japanese Patent Application No. JP2001017129). Chinese Patent Application No. CN 101718059 discloses an edible paper comprising pea or corn starch, as well as konjac and gellan, the Konjac / gellan weight ratio being 50:50. Japanese Patent Application No. JP 2005073526 discloses the production of an egg yolk substitute composition including konjac and modified gellan. PCT Application No. WO2009 / 082680 describes the preparation of gellan gels in which gellan can be combined with various hydrocolloids such as carrageenan, carob, konjac or xanthan. The use of konjac and gellan for the manufacture of a poultice matrix for Chinese medicine has also been described (Frontiers of Chemical Engineering in China, 2010, Vol 4 (1): 91-95; Coden: FCEBU ISSN: 16737369).

However, to the applicant's knowledge, the combined use of Konjac mannan and gellan in a mannan ratio of Konjac / Gellane ranging from 25/75 to 45/55 has not been described in the state of the art. . Neither has synergistic effect between konjac mannan and gellan been described on the viscosity properties of a composition, let alone in the aforementioned Konjac / gellane mannan weight ratio range. Konjac For the purposes of the invention, the "konjac" includes raw flour or raw konjac powder and manna composition derived from konjac.

Konjac (Amorphophalus Konjac C. Koch) is a perennial plant belonging to the family Aracceae. The "Konnyaku" prepared from the konjac tuber has been used in traditional kitchens in Japan for several centuries. The main component of konnyaku is a glucomannan also called "konjac mannan" (or KGM). Konnyaku is prepared from konjac flour obtained from the dried konjac tuber. The KGM flour is obtained by grinding the tuber root of the plant of Amorphophalus Konjac C. Koch. With regard to Konjac, those skilled in the art can refer in particular to the review article by Chua et al. (2010, Journal of Ethnopharmacology, Vol 128: 268-278). Various techniques are known for obtaining a mannan composition from konjac flour. In a first technique, konjac flour is boiled in water and then treated with Fehling's liquor to convert the mannan to its complex with copper. The copper complex thus obtained is then decomposed to obtain mannan, which is purified (see Agr Chem Soc Japan, 1930, Vol 6: 991995). According to a second technique, the konjac flour is subjected to a water extraction step, and the impurities are removed by precipitation with ethanol. The precipitate is then subjected to several redissolution steps in water before a drying step, after which a pure Konjac mannan composition is obtained (see Bull Chem Soc Japan, 1927, Vol 49: 298-322). . In a third technique, a konjac tuber grinder is subjected to one or more water extraction steps prior to separating the insoluble material, dialyzing the solid-free liquid against water, and then lyophilizing the material. dialysed liquid to remove water (see US Patent No. 3,973,008).

Other methods of preparing konjac are described in European Patent Application No. EP 2087798. Konjac flour having a rapid hydration capacity is described in US Patent No. 5,536,521. In general, mannan, which may also be called glucomannan, represents about 8 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the konjac tuber. As an illustration, the mannan content of a konjac flour is about 70% by weight, based on the total weight of the flour. Konjac mannan is composed of a main chain of D-glucose residues linked by a 13-1,4 bond to D-mannose residues, and side chains composed of 13-1,6 glucosyl units. The degree of substitution by side chains is estimated at about 3 side chains for each chain of 32 units of sugar in the main chain. The side chains are composed of mannose and glucose units present in a molar ratio of 1.6: 1. Acetyl groups along the KGM backbone are present every 9 or 19 units of sugar. Acetyl groups contribute to the solubility properties of konjac mannan. Konjac mannan includes the compound having the following formula (I): ## STR1 ## In the practice of the present invention, those skilled in the art may use a Konjac composition such as According to the invention, "gellane" is understood to mean a polysaccharide of the following general formula (I): n in which "n" is an integer whose value depends on the molecular weight of said polysaccharide.

In advantageous embodiments, the gellan gum has a molecular weight ranging from 1x105 to 5x106 g / mol. The gellan gum may have a molecular weight of about 5x105 g / mol. As illustrated by formula (I) above, gellan is an anionic linear heteropolyoside based on oligoside units composed of four monosaccharides, respectively D-glucose, L-rhamnose and D-glucuronic acid in a ratio 2: 1: 1. Gellan, also called "gellan gum", is generally produced from culture supernatant of Pseudomonas elodea bacteria. For example, gellan can be obtained by precipitating a bacterial culture filtrate with isopropyl alcohol, then drying and grinding the precipitated solids. To obtain the final gellan product, the glucuronic acid can be neutralized by adding a salt selected from a potassium salt, a sodium salt, a calcium salt or a magnesium salt. The final product is generally in the form of a white powder.

Gellan is known as a food additive designated "E418" (European Commission Directive 96/77 of 2 December 1996, American Compendium of Food Additive Specifications - FAO Food and Nutrition Paper, 52 Add.5). Gellan has a molecular weight of approximately 500,000. For the purposes of the invention, gellan includes at least partially deacylated gellan gums. At least partially deacylated gellan gum can be obtained by alkaline treatment at high temperature. For example, a solution of KOH or NaOH will be used. Gellan gum is a product that is readily available commercially. As an indication, the purified gellan gum is sold in particular under the name KelcogelTM by Kelco. For the purposes of the invention, "gellane" includes certain derivatives of gellane such as welane and the combinations of gellane or wellane with a monovalent salt, as described in French patent application No. FR 2862222. The derivatives of gum gellan are all the products obtained by carrying out conventional chemical reactions, such as in particular esterifications, addition of a salt of an organic or inorganic acid. As a derivative of the gellan gum, for example, the welan gum is used. Welane gum is a gellan gum modified by fermentation with Alcaligenes strain ATCC 31,555. Welan gum has a repeating pentasaccharide structure consisting of a main chain consisting of D-Glucose, D-glucuronic acid and L units. -Rhamnose on which a pendant motif of L-Rhamnose or L-Mannose is grafted. The welan gum sold under the trade name "Kelco Crete" by the company KELCO is suitable for preparing the cosmetic compositiosn according to the invention. The monovalent salts that may be used in combination with gellan or welan in the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are the salts of monovalent cations such as alkali metal salts, ammonium salts, organic amine salts or their salts. mixtures. The monovalent cations of the alkali metals are the following cations: Li +, Na +, K +, Rb +, Cs +, Fr +. In the compositions according to the present invention, the counterion is preferably an inorganic or organic anion, preferably the counterion is Cr. Preferably, the salt used is NaCl. The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a combination of konjac mannan (or KGM) and gellan in a KGM / gellane weight ratio ranging from 25/75 to 45 g / cm.sup.2. / 55. The invention also relates to the use of a combination of konjac mannan (or KGM) and gellan in a weight ratio KGM / gellane ranging from 25/75 to 45/55 to adjust the viscosity of a cosmetic composition . The various aspects of the invention are described below, in particular in relation to the characteristics of the cosmetic composition used. In some embodiments, the combination of konjac mannan (KGM) and gellan is in the form of a solution in which the two substances are dissolved and mixed. In some embodiments, a solution of KGM and a gellan solution are separately prepared at respective known final concentrations, then appropriate volumes of each of the solutions are mixed to effect the combination of KGM and gellan in the KGM weight ratio. / desired gellan.

According to some alternatives, the KGM / gellane liquid mixture is used at a final KGM / high gellan concentration, for the purpose of constituting a solution for storing the mixture. Said storage solution can then be used for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition according to the invention. By way of example, the final concentration of the KGM / gellan liquid mixture may be ten times greater than the final concentration of said mixture in the final cosmetic composition ready for use. In this case, the preparation of the cosmetic composition comprises a step of adding the KGM / gellane mixture by ten-fold dilution of the storage solution of the KGM / gellan mixture, with reference to the final cosmetic composition. According to other alternatives, for the preparation of the final cosmetic composition, the appropriate amounts of mannan-Konjac (KGM) and gellan storage solutions are added separately, both (i) in the desired KGM / gellan weight ratio and (ii) in the appropriate amount (KGM + gellan) to obtain the desired final concentration of the KGM / gellan mixture in the final cosmetic composition, then a mixing step is performed to homogeneously distribute the KGM and gellan as a whole of the composition that is prepared.

According to still other alternatives, the KGM and the gellan are added directly in powder form during the process for preparing the cosmetic composition. According to a first alternative, the KGM and gellan in the form of powder are premixed in the desired KGM / gellan weight ratio, and then the KGM / gellan mixture in powder form is added during the manufacturing process of the cosmetic composition. According to a second alternative, the KGM powder and the gellan powder are added separately, in appropriate quantities, during the manufacturing process of the cosmetic composition. According to still other alternatives, one of KGM and gellan is added as a powder and the other of KGM and gellan is added as a liquid solution. When used in liquid form, the KGM, the gellan or the KGM / gellan mixture are preferentially dissolved in an aqueous solution, which includes water. When the KGM and / or gellan are used in powder form, the intermediate composition into which they are introduced must contain a quantity of water or an aqueous liquid which is sufficient to allow their dissolution, thus their presence in the form of powder. dissolved in the final cosmetic composition. As shown in the examples, the synergistic effect of the combination of KGM and gellan, in the weight ratio of KGM / gellane ranging from 25/75 to 45/55, on the viscosity of the final product, can reach more than 100 times the viscosity that is obtained by adding an identical amount of one or the other among the KGM and gellan. This substantial synergistic effect makes it possible to obtain a desired level of viscosity for the final cosmetic composition with a reduced final concentration of the KGM / gellan combination, in a weight ratio prescribed by the invention. The examples show that a high viscosity level of the final composition is obtained with a final concentration of the KGM / gellane combination of 1 percent by weight, based on the total weight of the final composition, i.e. in general of the final cosmetic composition. Thus, in certain embodiments of the invention, the final concentration of the combination of KGM and gellan in the final cosmetic composition is less than 20% by weight, based on the total weight of said cosmetic composition. In these embodiments, the final concentration of the KGM / gellan combination includes final concentrations of less than 19%, 18%, 17%, 16%, 15%, 14%, 13%, 12%, 11%, and 10%. % by weight, relative to the total weight of the final cosmetic composition. In a cosmetic composition according to the invention, the final concentration of the combination of KGM and gellan, in a weight ratio prescribed by the invention, is preferably greater than 0.001% by weight, relative to the final weight of said cosmetic composition. In these embodiments, the final concentration of the combination of KGM and gellan encompasses final concentrations greater than 0.005%, 0.01%, 0.05%, and 0.1%. The combination of KGM and gellan makes it possible to control the viscosity of the final cosmetic composition as well as its stability over time. Thus, the combination of KGM and gellan is used as a viscosity agent or thickening agent. In the context of the invention, the viscosity is measured using a Rheomat RM 200 (Company LAMY), equipped with a mobile MS-R1, MS-R2, MS-R3, MS-R4 or MS- R5 chosen according to the consistency of the composition, rotating at a shear of 200 s-1.

In preferred embodiments, the combination of KGM and gellan is used to control the viscosity of cosmetic compositions consisting essentially or exclusively of natural substances, in particular natural substances of vegetable origin. "Natural compound" means a compound that is obtained directly from the soil or soil, or from plants or animals, via, where appropriate, one or more physical processes, such as, for example, grinding. , refining, distillation, purification or filtration.

By compound "of natural origin" is meant a natural compound having undergone one or more chemical or industrial treatments annexes, causing changes not affecting the essential qualities of this compound and / or a compound comprising predominantly natural constituents having or not undergone transformations, as indicated above. By way of non-limiting example of an adjunct chemical or industrial treatment resulting in modifications that do not affect the essential qualities of a natural compound, mention may be made of those authorized by the control bodies such as Ecocert (reference system for organic cosmetics and January 2003) or defined in recognized textbooks in the field, such as "Cosmetics and Toiletries Magazine", 2005, Vol. 120, 9:10. In certain embodiments, a cosmetic composition according to the invention is free of other polysaccharides than konjac and gellan.

Additional Cosmetic Agents The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional thickening agent (s), distinct from the carrageenans, preferably chosen from gelling agents of natural origin and those polysaccharides of plant and / or biotechnological origin.

These polysaccharides may optionally be chemically modified to promote their hydrophilic valence, as is the case of cellulose derivatives, in particular hydroxyalkyl celluloses (eg hydroxyethylcellulose). As examples of polysaccharides of plant origin which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of: a) gums other than konjac or mannan and gellan gums, such as carrageenan gums, guar gums and their nonionic derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gum arabic, Tragacanth gum, Ghatti gum, Karaya gum, locust bean gum; agar gum, scleroglucan gums and mixtures thereof; as examples, mention may be made of guar gum sold under the name Jaguar HP105® by the company Rhodia; mannan gum and konjac® (1% glucomannan) marketed by GfN; (b) modified or unmodified starches, such as those derived, for example, from cereals such as wheat, maize or rice, from vegetables such as sweet peas, tubers such as potatoes or cassava, tapioca starches ; dextrins, such as corn dextrins; as examples, mention may in particular be made of Remy DR I® rice starch marketed by Remy; corn starch Be from Roquette; potato starch modified with 2-chloroethylaminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide sold under the name Structure Solanace® by the company National Starch; the native tapioca starch powder sold under the name Tapioca pure® by the company National Starch; c) dextrins, such as dextrin extracted from corn under the name Indexe from National Starch; d) celluloses and their derivatives, in particular alkyl or hydroxyalkyl celluloses; mention may in particular be made of methylcelluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and carboxymethylcelluloses. Examples include cetyl hydroxy ethyl celluloses under the names Polysurf 67CS® and Natrosol Plus 330® from Aqualon; e) pectins, f) chitosan and its derivatives, g) polyholosides comprising at least two monosaccharides, preferably of natural origin, and especially chosen from: - aldoses such as pentoses (for example ribose, arabinose, xylose or apiose); hexoses (for example glucose, fucose, mannose or galactose); ketoses such as fructose; deoxyoses, such as rhamnose, digitoxose, cymarose or oleandrose; ose derivatives such as uronic acids such as mannuronic, guluronic, galacturonic or glucuronic acids; or itols like mannitol or sorbitol. Mention may in particular be made of the polysaccharide comprising fucose, galactose and galacturonic acid units, and for example a linear sequence of α-Fucose, α-D-galactose and galacturonic acid, for example Fucogel 1000 PP® (SOLABIA company), h) anionic polysaccharides, in particular of biotechnological origin, such as the anionic polysaccharide having as a repeating unit a tetrasaccharide composed of L-fucose, D-glucose and glucuronic acid, such as that bearing the name INCI Biosaccharide Gum- 4 marketed under the reference GLYCOFILM 1.5P by Solabia. i) clays such as laponites and mixtures thereof. The additional thickening agent (s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.05 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight.

If the composition comprises such additional thickening agent (s), preferably the weight ratio between the total amount of carrageenan gum (s) on the one hand, and the total amount of agent (s) (s) additional thickener (s) on the other hand is greater than or equal to 0.5, preferably greater than or equal to 1, more preferably greater than or equal to 2 and even more preferably greater than or equal to 5.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition does not comprise additional thickening agents. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 1.5% by weight of synthetic thickening or gelling polymers, preferably less than 1%, better still less than 0.5%, or even less than 0.2% by weight. In particular, it may be totally free of thickening or synthetic gelling polymers. Such synthetic polymers are, for example, acrylic polymers (Carbopol family), acrylic / alkyl acrylate copolymers or (co) polymers based on 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid (for example the polymers sold under the name Pemulen). , Sepigel or Simulgel, Aristoflex). The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more surfactant (s), preferably natural or of natural origin, and chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. Reference can be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", Vol. 22, p. 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, in particular p.347-377 of this reference, for anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. The anionic surfactants may be chosen in particular from anionic derivatives of proteins of plant origin, amino acids and amino acid derivatives, alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, sulphonates, isethionates, taurates, sulphosuccinates and alkyl sulphoacetates. phosphates and alkylphosphates, polypeptides, anionic alkyl polyglucoside derivatives, soaps (fatty acid salts), soybean oil derivatives, lactic acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof. The anionic derivatives of plant-derived proteins are hydrophobic group protein hydrolysates, said hydrophobic group being able to be naturally present in the protein or to be added by reacting the protein and / or the protein hydrolyzate with a hydrophobic compound. The proteins are of plant origin, and the hydrophobic group can be in particular a fatty chain, for example an alkyl chain comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

As anionic derivatives of plant-based proteins that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made more particularly of hydrolysates of wheat, soy, oat or silk proteins, comprising an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms and their salts. The alkyl chain may in particular be a lauryl chain and the salt may be a salt of sodium, potassium and / or ammonium.

Mention may be made, for example, of sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts of lauric acid-modified silk protein hydrolysates, such as the product marketed under the name KAWA Silk by the company Kawaken; the sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts of wheat protein hydrolysates modified with lauric acid, such as the potassium salt marketed under the name AMINOFOAM W OR by the company Croda (CTFA name: Potassium lauroyl wheat aminoacids) and the sodium salt sold under the name PROTEOL LW 30 by the company Seppic (CTFA name: sodium lauroyl wheat aminoacids); the sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts of oat protein hydrolysates having an alkyl chain having from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and more particularly the sodium, potassium and / or ammonium salts of Oat protein hydrolysates modified with lauric acid, such as the sodium salt sold under the name PROTEOL OAT (CTFA name: sodium lauroyl amino acid), PROTEOL SAV 50S (INCI name: Sodium cocoyl aminoacid), PROTEOL APL (INCI name: sodium cocoyl apple amino acids) by Seppic, AMARANTH S (INCI name: sodium cocoyl hydrolyzed amaranth proteins) and mixtures thereof.

As alkyl ether sulfates, mention may be made, for example, of sodium lauryl ether sulphate (C12-14 70/30) (2.2 OE) sold under the names Sipon AOS 225 ° or TEXAPON N702 PATE® by the company Cognis, lauryl ammonium ether sulfate (C12-14 70/30) (30E) sold under the name SIPON LEA 370® by Cognis, the alkyl (C12-C14) ether (90E) ammonium sulphate marketed under the name RHODAPEX AB / 20® denomination by Rhodia Chimie. As sulphonates, mention may be made, for example, of alpha-olefin sulphonates, such as the sodium alpha-olefin sulphonate (C14-16) sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40® by Stepan, sold under the names WITCONATE AOS PROTEGE And SULFRAMINE AOS PH 12® by the company Witco or sold under the name BIO-TERGE AS-40 CG® by Stepan, the secondary sodium olefin sulfonate sold under the name Hostapur SAS 30® by the company Clariant; linear alkyl aryl sulphonates, such as sodium xylene sulphonate sold under the names MANROSOL SXS30®, MANROSOL SXS40® and MANROSOL 5X593® by the company Manro. Mention may also be made of the alkyl sulphoacetate mixture, for example lauryl sulphoacetate, for example that sold as a mixture with sodium methyl-2-sulpholaurate and sulpholaurate-2-disodium under the reference STEPAN MILD PCL by the company. Stepan. As isethionates, mention may be made of acylisethionates, such as sodium cocoylisethionate, such as the product sold under the name Jordapon CI P® by the company Jordan. As taurates, mention may be made of the sodium salt of palm kernel oil methyltaurate marketed under the name HOSTAPON CT PATE® by the company Clariant; N-acyl N-methyltaurates, such as the sodium N-cocoyl N-methyltaurate sold under the name HOSTAPON LT-SF® by the company Clariant or sold under the name NIKKOL CMT-30-T by the company Nikkol, palmitoyl methyltaurate, sodium marketed under the name NIKKOL PMT® by Nikkol. As sulfosuccinates, mention may be made, for example, of oxyethylenated (30E) lauryl alcohol (C12 / C14 70/30) monosulfinate sold under the names SETACIN 103 SPECIAL®, REWOPOL SB-FA 30 K 4® by the company Witco the di-sodium salt of a C12-C14 alcoholsulphonic acid, sold under the name SETACIN F SPECIAL PASTE® by the company Zschimmer Schwarz, the oxyethylenated (20E) di-sodium oleamide sulfosuccinate sold under the name Standapol. SH 135® by the company Cognis, the oxyethylenated lauric amide monosulfinate (50E) marketed under the name LEBON A-5000® by the company Sanyo, the di-sodium salt of lauryl citrate monosulfosuccinate oxyethylenated (10E) marketed under the name REWOPOL SB CS 50® by the company Witco, the di-sodium salt of lauric alcohol monosulfosuccinate sold under the name REWOPOL SB F12P® by the company Witco, the mono-sulfosuccinate ricinoleic monoethanolamide sold under the name REWODERM S 1333® by the company Witco. As phosphates and alkylphosphates, mention may be made, for example, of monoalkyl phosphates and dialkyl phosphates, such as lauryl mono-phosphate sold under the name MAP 20 ° by the company Kao Chemicals, the potassium salt of dodecylphosphoric acid, mixture of mono- and di-ester (majority diester) marketed under the name CRAFOL AP-31® by Cognis, the mixture of monoester and octylphosphoric acid di-ester, sold under the name CRAFOL AP-20® by Cognis, the mixture of ethoxylated 2-butyloctanol (7 moles of EO) phophoric acid monoester and diester, marketed under the name ISOFOL 12 7 EO-PHOSPHATE ESTER® by the company Condea, potassium salt or triethanolamine monoalkyl (C12-C13) phosphate sold under the references ARLATONE MAP 230K-40® and ARLATONE MAP 230T-60 ° by the company Uniqema, potassium lauryl phosphate marketed under the denomination DERMALCARE MAP XC-99 / 09® by the company Rhodia Chimie.

The anionic derivatives of alkyl-polyglucosides may in particular be citrates, tartrates, sulphosuccinates, carbonates and glycerol ethers obtained from the alkyl polyglucosides. Mention may be made, for example, of the sodium salt of cocoylpolyglucoside (1,4) tartaric ester, sold under the name EUCAROL AGE-ET® by the company Cesalpinia, the cocoylpolyglucoside sulfosuccinic ester sodium salt (1,4). ), marketed under the name ESSAI 512 MP® by the company Seppic, the sodium salt of citric ester cocoyl polyglucoside (1,4) sold under the name EUCAROL AGE-EC® by the company Cesalpinia. In particular, the anionic surfactants may be chosen from soaps (fatty acid salts), soy oil derivatives, lactic acid derivatives, amino acids, acylamino acids, their salts, and mixtures thereof. The soaps are obtained from a fatty acid which is partially or totally saponified (neutralized) with a basic agent. These are alkali or alkaline-earth metal soaps or organic bases. As fatty acids, it is possible to use saturated, linear or branched fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms. This fatty acid may in particular be chosen from palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, lauric acid and mixtures thereof. As basic agents, it is possible to use, for example, alkali metal hydroxides (sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide), alkaline earth metal hydroxides (for example magnesium), ammonium hydroxide, or even organic bases such as triethanolamine, N-methylglucamine, lysine and arginine. The soaps may be in particular alkali salts of fatty acid, the basic agent being an alkali metal hydroxide, and preferably potassium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide (KOH). The amount of basic agent must be sufficient for the fatty acid to be at least partially neutralized. Mention may in particular be made of sodium or potassium laurate, potassium myristate, potassium palmitate, potassium stearate, potassium cocoate or stearic acid salts of KOH formed in situ.

The derivatives of soybean oil and their salts are in particular the fatty acids and salts of fatty acids derived from soybean oil (whose INCI name is "glycine soybean oil" or "soybean oil") and in particular alkali metal salts such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, and fatty acids derived from soybean, such as potassium soyate such as that marketed by Noveon. As acylamino acids, mention may be made, for example, of sodium cocoylglycinate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCS12, sodium cocoylglycinate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amilite GCK-12, and cocoyl glutamate of disodium marketed by Ajinomoto. under the name Amisoft ECS-22SB, the sodium lauroyl glutamate marketed by Ajinomoto under the name Amisoft LS11, the sodium lauroyl sarcosinate marketed by the company Seppic under the name ORAMIX L 30, sodium and disodium stearoyl glutamate marketed by the Ajinomoto company under the name Amisoft HS21 P and HS11 Pf and cocoyl sodium sarcosinate marketed by the company ZSCHIMMER & SCHWARZ under the name Protelan LS 9011 / C. Mention may also be made of the sodium salt of lauroyl amino acids of oats such as Proteol OAT marketed by the company Seppic or the compound bearing the INCI name sodium cocoyl aminoacids such as the Proteol SAV 50S from Seppic.

The amino acid derivatives may be chosen for example from sarcosinates and in particular acylsarcosinates, such as sodium lauroyl sarcosinate sold under the name SARKOSYL NL 97® by the company Ciba or sold under the name ORAMIX L 30 by the company Seppic, myristoyl sarcosinate sodium, marketed under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE MN® by Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, sold under the name NIKKOL SARCOSINATE PN® by the company Nikkol; alaninates, such as sodium N-lauroyl-N-methylamidopropionate, sold under the name Sodium Nikol alkanate LN 30® by the company Nikkol or marketed under the name Alanone Ale® by the company Kawaken, and N-lauroyl N-methylalanine triethanolamine, sold under the name ALANONE ALTA® by the company Kawaken; Nacylglutamates such as triethanolamine mono-cocoylglutamate sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE CT-12 by Ajinomoto, and triethanolamine lauroylglutamate sold under the name ACYLGLUTAMATE LT-12® by Ajinomoto, commercialized triethanolamine cocoylglutamate under the name Amisoft CT-12® by the company Ajinomoto; aspartates such as the mixture of triethanolamine N-lauroylaspartate and of triethanolamine N-myristoylaspartate, sold under the name ASPARACK® by the company Mitsubishi; citrates. The lactic acid derivatives or their salts may be chosen from acyl lactylic acid derivatives, their salts (lactylates) such as stearoyl lactylate such as for example that marketed by Oleon NV under the name Radiamuls 2980; sodium stearoyl lactylate as proposed for example by the company Oleon NV under the name Radiamuls 2990, by Karlshamns AB under the name Akoline SL, by the company Uniquema under the name Priazul 2134 or by Dr. Straetmans under the name Dermofeel SL ; sodium isostearoyl lactylate such as that marketed by Uniquema under the name Priazul 2133; sodium behenoyl lactylate, for example, sold by Rita Corporation under the name Pationic SBL; sodium cocoyl lactylate such as that sold by the company Rita under the name Pationic SCL, sodium oleoyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl lactylate (PATIONIC 138C Caravan), sodium caproyl lactylate (CAPMUL S8L-G Abitec). Mention may also be made of cocoamphoacetate sodium, glycerin, lauryl glucoside, sodium cocoylglutamate, lauryl glucose sodium carboxylate sold by Cognis under the reference Plantapon SF. Amphoteric surfactants (this term including amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants) may be chosen, for example, from betaines, N-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives, derivatives of glycine, sultaines, alkyl polyaminocarboxylates, alkylamphoacetates and mixtures thereof. As betaines, mention may in particular be made of alkyl betaines, for example cocobetaine, such as the product sold under the name Dehyton AB-30® by the company Cognis, lauryl betaine, and the product sold under the name GENAGEN KB® by the company Clariant, lauryl betaine. oxyethylenated (10 OE), such as the product sold under the name LAURYLETHER (10 OE) BETAINE by the company Shin Nihon Rica, stearyl betaine oxyethylenated (10 OE) as the product sold under the name STEARYLETHER (10 OE) BETAINE® by the company Shin Nihon Rica. Among the N-alkylamidobetaines and their derivatives, mention may be made, for example, of cocamidopropyl betaine marketed under the name LEBON 2000 HG® by the company Sanyo, under the name EMPIGEN BB® by the company Albright & Wilson, under the names Tego Betain F 50 and CK D by the company Evonik GOLDSCHMIDT, or those marketed in admixture with glyceryl lauratec, such as the commercial references Tego Betain HS or Antil HS 60 from EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT, lauramidopropyl betaine marketed under the name REWOTERIC AMIB12P® by the company Witco. As sultaines, there may be mentioned cocoylamidopropylhydroxy-sulfobetaine marketed under the name CROSULTAINE C-50® by the company Croda. As alkyl polyaminocarboxylates (APAC), mention may be made of the sodium cocoylpolyamino carboxylate, sold under the name AMPHOLAK 7 CX / C, and AMPHOLAK 7 CX® by the company Akzo Nobel, the sodium stearyl polyamidocarboxylate sold under the name AMPHOLAK 7 TX / C by Akzo Nobel, sodium carboxymethylolpropylamine, sold under the name AMPHOLAK X07 / C® by the company Akzo Nobel. As alkylamphoacetates, mention may be made, for example, of N-cocoyl-Ncarboxymethoxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-di-sodium (CTFA name: disodium cocamphodiacetate), such as the product marketed under the name MIRANOL C2M CONCENTRA NP® by the company Rhodia Chimie, and N-cocoyl-N-hydroxyethyl-N-carboxymethyl-ethylenediamine N-sodium (CTFA name: sodium cocamphoacetate). The nonionic surfactants may be chosen for example from alkyl polyglucosides (APG), maltose esters, sucrose esters, hydrophobic gums, polyglycerolated fatty alcohols, glyceryl esters of fatty acids, glycerol esters oxyalkylenated esters, oxyalkylenated sugar esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, fatty acid and sorbitan esters, glucamine derivatives such as 2-ethylhexyloxycarbonyl-n-methylglucamine, and their mixtures. As alkylpolyglucosides, use is preferably made of those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a hydrophilic group (glucoside) preferably comprising 1.2 to 3 units of saccharide. . Mention may be made, for example, of decylglucoside (Alkyl-C9 / Cl-polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product sold under the name MYDOL 10 by the company Kao Chemicals, the product sold under the name Plantaren 2000 UP® by the company Cognis, and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10® by the company Seppic; caprylyl / capryl glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name ORAMIX CG 110® by the company Seppic or PLANTACARE 810 P by the company Cognis; laurylglucoside, such as the products sold under the names PLANTAREN 1200 N® and PLANTACARE 1200® by the company Cognis; and the coco-glucoside, such as the product marketed under the name PLANTACARE 818 / UP® by the company Cognis, cetostearyl glucoside, optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, marketed for example under the name MONTANOV 68 by the company Seppic under the name TEGO-CARE CG90 by Goldschmidt and under the name EMULGADE KE3302 by Henkel; arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidyl glucoside marketed under the name MONTANOV 202 by the company Seppic; cocoylethylglucoside, for example in the form of the mixture (35/65) with cetyl and stearyl alcohols, marketed under the name Montanov 82 by the company Seppic, the C12 to C20 alkyl glucosides such as those sold in admixture with fatty alcohols; C14 to C22 under the reference MONTANOV L by the company Seppic. The oxyalkylenated glycerol esters are in particular the polyoxyethylenated derivatives of glyceryl and fatty acid esters and their hydrogenated derivatives. These oxyalkylenated glycerol esters may be chosen, for example, from glyceryl esters of hydrogenated and oxyethylenated fatty acids, such as PEG-200 hydrogenated glyceryl palmate sold under the name Rewoderm LI-S 80 by the company Goldschmidt; oxyethylenated glyceryl cocoates such as PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate sold under the name Tegosoft GC by the company Goldschmidt, and PEG-30 glyceryl cocoate sold under the name Rewoderm LI-63 by the company Goldschmidt; and their mixtures. The oxyalkylenated sugar esters are in particular the polyethylene glycol ethers of the fatty acid and sugar esters. These oxyalkylenated sugar esters may be chosen for example from oxyethylenated glucose esters such as PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate marketed under the name Glucamate DOE 120 by the company Amerchol. The fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol are preferably esters of C16-C22 fatty acids containing from 8 to 100 ethylene oxide units. The fatty chain of the esters may in particular be chosen from stearyl, behenyl, arachidyl, palmityl and cetyl units and their mixtures such as cetearyl, and preferably a stearyl chain. The number of ethylene oxide units can range from 8 to 100, preferably from 10 to 80, and better still from 10 to 50. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, this number can range from 20 to By way of example of fatty acid ester and of polyethylene glycol, mention may be made of stearic acid esters comprising, respectively, 20, 30, 40, 50, 100 ethylene oxide units, such as products sold respectively under the name Myrj 49 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 20 OE, CTFA name: PEG20 stearate), Myrj 51, Myrj 52 P (polyethylene glycol stearate 40 OE, CTFA name: PEG-40 stearate), Myrj 53, Myrj 59 P by the company CRODA.

The esters of C16-C22 fatty acids and of sorbitan are in particular esters of C16-C22 acids and of sorbitan and are formed by esterification of at least one fatty acid comprising at least one linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain. having respectively from 16 to 22 carbon atoms with sorbitol. These esters may especially be chosen from stearates, behenates, arachidates, palmitates, sorbitan oleates, and mixtures thereof. Sorbitan stearates and palmitates, and preferably sorbitan stearates, are preferably used.

By way of example of sorbitan ester which may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of sorbitan monostearate (CTFA name: Sorbitan stearate) sold by Croda under the name Span 60, sorbitan tristearate sold by the company. Croda company under the name Span 65 V, the sorbitan monopalmitate (CTFA name: Sorbitan palmitate) sold by Croda under the name Span 40, the sorbitan monoleate sold by Croda under the name Span 80 V, the trioleate sorbitan sold by Uniquema under the name Span 85 V. Preferably, the sorbitan ester used is sorbitan tristearate.

The glyceryl and fatty acid esters may be obtained in particular from an acid having a saturated linear alkyl chain having from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. As glycerol ester and fatty acid, there may be mentioned glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and / or tri-stearate) (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate), glyceryl ricinoleate, and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the glyceryl ester of fatty acid used is chosen from glyceryl stearates. Mention may also be made of the mixture of glyceryl stearate and of polyethylene glycol 100 0E monostearate, and in particular that comprising a 50/50 mixture, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by the company Croda.

As sucrose esters, mention may be made of sucrose esters of fatty acids comprising from 12 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, said esters possibly comprising from 2 to 5 fatty chains, such as, for example, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose laurate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose myristate and mixtures thereof.

Mention may in particular be made of sucrose cocoate such as TEGOSOFT PSE from GOLDSCHMIDT, sucrose myristate such as Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods Corp.'s Surfhope SE COSME C-1416, sucrose laurate such as Surfhope SE COSME C-1216, sucrose laurate such as Surfhope SE COSME C-1215L, the mixture of sucrose esters and palmitic and / or stearic acids (INCI name sucrose palmitate) as sold under the reference Surfhope SE COSME C-1616.

Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sucrose: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 by the company CRODESTA, respectively denoting sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% monoester; % di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri-, and tetra. -ester, and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name RYOTO SUGAR ESTERS, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triester-polyester; the sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by GOLDSCHMIDT under the name TEGOSOFT PSE. Hydrophobic or hydrophobic modified gum means a gum modified with hydrophobic chains, in particular modified by grafting hydrophobic chains on the hydrophilic skeleton of the gum. There may be mentioned, for example, gum arabic proposed under the name EMULSIFYING 500 A or 500 L by the company Alland & Robert, the arabinogalactan gum proposed under the name Laracare A200 by the company Lonza, scleroglucan gum as proposed by company Alban Muller under the reference Amigel Granule, the cellulose proposed by the company under the reference Cellulose Water Dispersion (4/96) by the company DAIICHI KOGYO SEIYAKU, the pectin and dextrose mixture marketed by Cargill under the reference Unipectine OF 600C, natural branched polysaccharides such as Soliance's Biolygel, lauryl inulin carbamate (Inutec SP1 from the company Orafti). Particularly suitable nonionic surfactants are alkyl polyglucosides (APG), sucrose esters, hydrophobed gums and mixtures thereof. The cationic surfactants that can be used according to the present invention are in particular the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts; imidazoline derivatives; cationic amine oxides, and / or a mixture thereof. The quaternary ammonium salts are in particular: (a) those which have the following general formula (IV): R 3 NX - R 2 R 4 (IV) in which the radicals R 1 to R 4, which may be identical or different, represent a radical aliphatic, linear or branched, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens. The aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), alkylamide, (C1-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl, (C1-C22) alkylacetate, hydroxyalkyl, with about 1 to 30 carbon atoms; X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 2 -C 6) alkyl sulphates and alkyl or alkylarylsulphonates. R 1 and R 2 preferably denote a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or a C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl. C4. (b) the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium, such as for example that of formula (V) below: R 6 CH 2 -CH 2 -N (R 8) -CO-R 5 N 7 N <R 7 (V) in which R 5 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from coconut fatty acids, R 6 represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms; carbon, R7 represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical, R8 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, X- is an anion chosen from the group of the halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl- or- alkylarylsulfonates. Preferably, R 5 and R 6 denote a mixture of X-alkenyl or alkyl radicals containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 7 denotes methyl and R 8 denotes hydrogen. (c) the quaternary diammonium salts of formula (VI): embedded image in which R 9 denotes an aliphatic radical having from about 16 to about 16 to 16, and 30 carbon atoms, R10, R11, R12, R13 and R14, which are identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates , phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates. (d) quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, for example those of the following formula (VII): ## STR2 ## Wherein: R 15 is selected from C 1 -C 6 alkyl radicals and C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals; R 17 C (O C N H 2 n) y N; - R16 is chosen from: 0 - the radical R19 C - linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon radicals R20, - the hydrogen atom, - R18 is chosen from: O - the radical R21 - the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon radicals R 22, R 17, R 19 and R 21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated C 7 -C 21 hydrocarbon radicals; or unsaturated; n, p and r, which may be identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; - X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; Provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R16 is R20 and when z is 0 then R18 is R22. The alkyl radicals R15 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

Preferably R15 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R16 is a hydrocarbon radical R20, it may be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R 18 is a hydrocarbon radical R 22, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R17, R19 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, n, p and r, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3 and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate more particularly methyl sulphate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The X- anion is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate.

More particularly, the ammonium salts of formula (VII) in which: R15 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical, - x and y are equal to 1; z is 0 or 1; n, p and r are 2; - R16 is chosen from: - R19 radical C - methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon radicals - the hydrogen atom; R 18 is chosen from: ## STR2 ## the radical R 21 -C - the hydrogen atom; R17, R19 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon radicals and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear. Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV), tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred. , in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristylacetate) ammonium chloride sold under the name "Ceraphyl 70" by the company VAN DYK. There may be mentioned, for example, the compounds of formula (V) such as the salts (in particular chloride or methyl sulphate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethyl ammonium, of diacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethyl methyl ammonium, of triacyloxyethyl methyl ammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl hydroxyethyl dimethyl ammonium and their mixtures. The acyl radicals preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil.

When the compound contains more than one acyl radical, the latter may be identical or different. These products are obtained for example by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin or by transesterification of their esters methyl. This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (methyl or preferably ethyl), methyl methanesulphonate, methyl paratoluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are for example sold under the names DEHYQUART by the company COGNIS, STEPANQUAT by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by the company CECA, REWOQUAT WE 18 and REWOQUAT W75 by the company DEGUSSA.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. Quaternary ammonium dihydrogen salts of formula (VI) that are suitable for the invention include, in particular, propane diammonium dichloride. The surfactants preferentially used in the composition according to the invention may in particular be nonionic surfactants, and in particular surfactants of natural origin, in which compounds which may be present in nature and which are reproduced by chemical synthesis are included. . They may be chosen in particular from the soaps (fatty acid salts), the soy oil derivatives, the lactic acid derivatives, the sugar and fatty acid esters, the glycerol or polyglycerol esters and fatty acid comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as lauric acid, amino acids, acylamino acids, their salts, alkyl polyglucosides (APG), hydrophobized gums and their mixtures. Mention may also be made of anionic surfactants chosen from acylamino acid salts such as glutamates, glycinates, lactic acid derivatives or their salts, such as lactylates, citrates and their mixtures.

In particular, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one nonionic surfactant, preferably chosen from glycerol or polyglycerol and fatty acid esters comprising from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 18 atoms. carbon, such as lauric acid. The surfactant (s) may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5 to 15% by weight and better from 0.5 to 5% by weight. The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one foaming agent chosen from saponins such as saponins extracted from soap trees (Sapindus mukurossi, Sapindus trifoliatus), licorice (Glycyrrhiza glabra), horse chestnut (Aesculus hippocastanum). , Bacoppa (Baccopa monneria), Sarsaparilla (Smilax medica, Smilax aspera, Smilax ornata), Panama wood (Quillaja saponaria), Saponaria (Saponaria officinalis), Ginseng (Panax ginseng), Yucca (Yucca schidigera), Maltese cross (Tribulus terrestris), Juazirine (Zizyphus joazeiro), Jiaogulan (Gynostemma pentaphyllum), Indian asparagus (Asparagus racemosus, Alfalfa (Medicago sativa) and mixtures thereof Saponins may be present at a level of from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.2 to 15%, and more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one oil, that is to say say a liquid fat body at tempera room temperature (20-25 ° C).

The oil may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils, of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. These oils are physiologically acceptable. As oils that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as heptanoic or octanoic acid triglycerides or, for example, sunflower, corn, soybean, squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, coriander, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides caprylic / capric acids such as those marketed by Stearineries Dubois or those marketed under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, l jojoba oil, shea butter oil; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular fatty acids: The fatty esters may be chosen for example from those obtained from a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohol having from 1 to 24 carbon atoms and a linear or branched chain fatty acid having 3 to 24 carbon atoms. As fatty esters, mention may be made, for example, of 2-ethylhexyl caprate / caprylate (or octyl caprate / caprylate), ethyl laurate, butyl laurate, hexyl laurate, laurate and laurate. isohexyl, isopropyl laurate, methyl myristate, ethyl myristate, butyl myristate, isobutyl myristate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyl dodecyl myristate, ethyl monococoate 2-hexyl (or octyl monococoate), methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isopropyl palmitate, isobutyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (or octyl palmitate), butyl stearate, isopropyl stearate, isobutyl stearate, 2-ethyl hexyl stearate (or octyl stearate), isopropyl isostearate, isocetyl stearate, isostearate isotearyl, ethy1-2 hexyl pelargonate (or octyl pelargonate), 2-ethylhexyl hydroxystearate (or octyl hydroxystearate), decyl oleate, di-isopropyl adipate, 2-diethyl-hexyl adipate (or di-octyl adipate), diisocetyl adipate, ethylhexyl succinate (or octyl succinate), diisopropyl sebacate, ethyl malate 2-hexyl (or octyl malate), pentaerythritol caprate / caprylate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate (octyl hexanoate), octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, neopentanoate isostearyl isopentanoate, isotonyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isodecyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, lauryl lactate, myristyl lactate, cetyl lactate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethyl hexyl ethyl hexanoate (or octyl ethyl-2 hexanoate), 2-ethyl hexyl octanoate (or octyl octanoate) ), cetyl ethyl-2-hexanoate, tetraisostearate pentaerythritol, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate (Eldew SL 205 from Unipex), dicaprylyl carbonat e (Cetiol CC from Cognis), benzoates of C12-C15 fatty alcohols (Finsolv TN from Finetex). As fatty ethers, mention may be made of Dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol OE from Cognis). linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam® oil; volatile linear alkanes, preferably of plant origin, comprising from 9 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 15 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 14 carbon atoms. They may have a flash point in the range of 30 to 120 ° C, and more preferably 40 to 100 ° C and are preferably liquid at room temperature (about 25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). ).

By way of example of a volatile linear alkane which is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of Cognis WO 2007/068371, or WO2008 / 155059 (distinct alkane mixtures and differing from at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut oil or palm oil.

By way of example of a linear alkane which is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), ntridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), n-pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) described in example 1 of application WO2008 / 155059 from Cognis, and the mixture nodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, respectively linear dodecane and tetradecane and as their mixtures. It is possible to use the volatile linear alkane alone or as a mixture of at least two different volatile alkanes and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 1, and in particular a mixture of at least two volatile linear alkanes comprising 10 to 15 carbon atoms and differing from each other by a carbon number of at least 2, and in particular a mixture of volatile linear C11 / C13 alkanes or a mixture of volatile linear C12 / C14 alkanes, in particular a n-undecane / n-tridecane mixture (such a mixture may be obtained according to Example 1 or Example 2 of WO 2008/155059); partially fluorinated and / or silicone fluorinated oils, such as those described in the JP document. -A-2-295912; - and their mixtures. The oils chosen from vegetable oils or of plant origin are preferably used. The oil may be present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 90% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1 to 80% by weight, and more preferably from 1 to 70% by weight. The cosmetic compositions of the invention may, in addition, contain adjuvants customary in the cosmetic field, such as antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, perfume peptizers, dyestuffs, fillers, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents. The nature of the adjuvants and their amounts must be such that they do not modify the properties of the composition according to the invention. The amounts of these adjuvants are those conventionally used in the cosmetics field and, for example, from 0.001 to 10% of the total weight of the composition.

As active agents that can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made, for example, of soothing agents such as allantoin and bisabolol; floral waters such as linden water or cornflower water; glycyrrhetinic acid and its salts; antibacterials such as octopirox, triclosan and triclocarban; essential oils ; vitamins such as for example retinol (vitamin A), ascorbic acid (vitamin C), tocopherol (vitamin E), niacinamide (vitamin PP or B3), panthenol (vitamin B5) and their derivatives such as by examples are the esters of these vitamins (palmitate, acetate, propionate), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, glycosylated vitamin C or glucopyranosyl ascorbic acid (Ascorbyl glucoside); coenzymes such as coenzyme Q10 or ubiquinone and coenzyme R or biotin; protein hydrolysates; plant extracts and in particular plankton extracts; and their mixtures.

As fillers, mention may be made of mineral fillers such as talc or magnesium silicate (particle size: 5 microns) sold under the name LUZENAC M00® by the company LUZENAC, kaolin or aluminum silicate such as for example that marketed under the name denomination KAOLIN SUPREME® by the company IMERYS, or organic fillers such as starch, for example the product marketed under the name AMIDON DE MAIS B® by Roquette, and nylon microspheres sold under the name ORGASOL 2002 UD. NAT COS® by ATOCHEM, cellulose beads such as Cellulobeads D10 from DAITO KASEI KYOGO, lauroyl lysine, micronized powders of plants (such as lychee, cranberry, coconut) such as those marketed under the trademark Microzest by the company Lessonia, the cork powder, the microspheres based on vinylidene chloride / Acryloni copolymer isobutane-containing trile / methacrylonitrile, expanded as those sold under the name Expancel 551 DE® by the company Expancel. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose these optional additives and their amounts so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention. In some embodiments, said cosmetic composition is selected from a skin care composition and a hair care composition.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a combination of konjac mannan (or KGM) and gellan in a KGM / gellane weight ratio ranging from 25/75 to 45/55, in combination with one or more cosmetic agents.

In certain embodiments of the cosmetic composition defined above, the weight ratio KGM / gellane ranges from 30/70 to 40/60. In some embodiments, the final concentration of the KGM / gellan combination is greater than 0.001%, based on the total weight of said cosmetic composition.

In certain embodiments, the final concentration of the KGM / gellan combination is less than 20% by weight, based on the total weight of said cosmetic composition. In certain embodiments of the cosmetic composition defined above, it is selected from a composition for skin care and a composition for hair care. The present invention also relates to a process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials comprising applying to said keratin materials a cosmetic composition as defined in the present description. A composition of the invention may be in any conceivable galenic form. In particular, a composition according to the invention may have the form of an aqueous, hydro-alcoholic solution; a dispersion; a water-in-oil, oil-water or multiple emulsion; a suspension; microcapsules or microparticles; vesicular dispersions of ionic and / or nonionic type; aerosol composition composition also comprising a propellant under pressure.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention may be an oil-in-water emulsion. A composition according to the invention may be in the form of a composition for hair care, in particular a shampoo, a setting lotion, a treatment lotion, a cream or a styling gel, a dyeing composition, in particular oxidation, restructuring lotions for the hair, a composition of permanent (including a composition for the first time of a perm), a lotion or a fall protection gel, a pest control shampoo.

It may also be in the form of a composition for cleaning, protecting, treating or caring for the face, the hands, the feet, the large anatomical folds or the body (for example, day creams). , night cream, make-up remover, sunscreen composition, body protection or care milk, after-sun milks, lotion, gel or mousse for skin care, such as cleaning lotion, artificial tanning composition); a makeup composition for the body or the face such as a foundation; a bath composition; a deodorant composition comprising, for example, a bactericidal agent; aftershave composition; an epilatory composition; a composition against insect bites; an anti-pain composition; a dermatological or pharmaceutical composition for treating certain skin diseases such as eczema, rosacea, psoriasis, lichens, severe pruritus. When a composition according to the invention is intended for use as a peel, it may also be in any of the galenical forms mentioned above, provided that it is easily removed by rinsing, and in particular in the form of an aqueous gel. of aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution. A composition according to the invention may be applied by any means allowing a uniform distribution and especially using a cotton, a rod, a brush, a gauze, a spatula or a buffer, or by spraying, and may be removed by rinsing with water or a mild detergent. A composition according to the invention may be in a fluid form of liquid vaporizable or not, in the form of paste, direct or inverse emulsion, or gel or impregnated support. In particular, a composition according to the invention may be in a solid form, in particular compact, pulverulent or cast or in a stick form. A composition according to the invention may also be in the form of a care product, a solar product or after sun, a daily photoprotective care product, a product for the body, a foundation to be applied to the face or neck, a concealer, a concealer, a tinted cream or makeup base for face makeup or a makeup composition for the body.

A composition according to the invention may be used for the purpose of improving the general condition of an epidermis, in particular the skin, and in particular for maintaining or restoring its physiological functions and / or its aesthetic appearance. Thus, a composition according to the invention can be advantageously used in order to fight against aging of the epidermis, maintain and / or stimulate hydration and / or fight against drying of the skin, improve the tone of the skin maintain or restore the suppleness and elasticity of the skin, improve the mineralization of the epidermis, improve the vitality of the epidermis, facilitate inter-cellular exchanges, and fight against cracking and the cracked appearance of the skin .

A composition according to the invention may be intended for a cosmetic and / or dermatological application. Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly from the examples which follow, given by way of illustration and not limitation. In what follows or what precedes, the proportions are given in percentage by weight, unless otherwise indicated. Figure 1 illustrates the viscosity curve of a composition comprising 1% by weight of a KGM / gellan combination in the KGM / gellane weight ratio range of 0/100 to 100/0. On the abscissa: weight ratio KGM / gellane. On the ordinate: viscosity values, expressed in Pa.s. Other features and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly from the examples which follow, given by way of illustration and not limitation. In what follows or what precedes, the proportions are given in percentage by weight, unless otherwise indicated. EXAMPLE 1 Effect of the Mannan Combination of Konjac and Gellan on Viscosity A. Materials and Methods As Konjac Mannan (KGM), the product KONJAC GUM 03-TK QINGJIANG KONJAC was used. As a gellan, the compound KELCOGEL CG LA CP KELCO was used. A series of compositions comprising a concentration was prepared. final combination KGM / gellane of 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Each composition in the series included a specific KGM / gellan weight ratio. A series of compositions were made comprising the following KGM / gellane weight ratios: 100/0, 67/33, 50/50, 33/67 and 0/100. The two extreme values relate to compositions comprising, for the KGM / gellan combination, exclusively KGM (100/0) or exclusively gellan (0/100). The test compositions shown in Table 1 below were made. Table 1 Cosmetic type Compound active final content sodium hydroxide pH adjuster at 5.5 active citric acid pH adjustor at 5.5 Preservative ethylparaben and propylparaben 0.5 ** Stabilizing agent Combination KGM / gellan * 1.0 ** solvent water 98.5 ** * Combination KGM / gellan in each weight ratio KGM / gellane: 100/0 67/33, 50/50, 33/67 and 0/100 ** percentage by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The viscosity and the behavior of these solutions was studied using a rheometer ... The device used is the HAAKE Mars rheometer (Modular Advanced Rheometer System). The rheometer is provided with a rotor on which are fixed the geometries, of various sizes which come into contact with the sample, an optical sensor measuring the speed of rotation, a plate whose temperature is controlled by effect furrier, connected to an oil bath for heat exchange, and a PC piloting the device. It can operate either in imposed constraint, or in imposed speed thanks to a control loop. The choice of geometry depends directly on the type of product to be tested. As the set of products studied is of medium consistency, the cone / plane geometry will be chosen (to the detriment of plane / plane geometry, for products containing solid particles). The shear rate is then the same at every point of the sample. For fluid products, a 60mm diameter titanium-sanded cone-plane geometry with an angle of 1 ° will be used. For consistent products, a 35mm diameter titanium-sanded cone-plane geometry with an angle of 2 ° may be preferred. Flow Measurement Protocol In flow, the measurements are carried out under constraint imposed on equilibrium. The product is subjected to increasing constraints and the variation of the corresponding velocity gradient is measured. The flow curve, which represents the evolution of the viscosity as a function of the shear gradient, is deduced. The measurements made make it possible to access very small shears and to estimate the flow threshold, that is to say the stress to be applied for the product to start flowing. The sample is heated at 25 ° C. for 120 seconds by Peltier effect. Stress flow is carried out in increments of 0.1 up to 500Pa maximum, and about twenty logarithmically distributed measurement points are recorded. These measurements are therefore carried out over a wide range of deformation and describe the behavior and texture of the polymers at rest (low shear rate) and during setting and spreading (high shear rates around 500 to 1000 s). 1).

B. Results The results are shown in Figure 1 as well as in Table 2 below. Table 2 Weight ratio KGM / gellan Viscosity (in Pa.s at 0.001 s-1) 100/0 45.6 67/33 12.8 50/50 6.2 33/67 121.7 0/100 24.0 Results of Example 1 show that, for a defined range of KGM / gellan weight ratio values, there is a drastic increase in the viscosity of the composition.

These results show that for said defined range of KGM / gellan weight ratio values, the low end concentration KGM / gellan combination can be used to control the viscosity of a composition of interest. Examples of cosmetic compositions Example of a skincare Ingredients% by weight CITRIC ACID pH adjuster ARGININE pH adjuster SALICYLIC ACID 0.2 "BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER" 3 CERA ALBA 1 CEARTARYL ALCOHOL 0.5 DICAPRYLYL ETHER 15 AGAR 0 , 67 SCLEROTIUM GUM 0.33 GLYCERIN 5 GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE 0.5 SUCROSE STEARATE and SUCROSE DISTEARATE 2.5 AQUA qs 100 Example of a shampoo for the hair Ingredient% by weight CITRIC ACID pH adjuster ARGININE pH adjuster SALICYLIC ACID 0, 2 AGAR 0.67 SCLEROTIUM GUM 0.33 GLYCERIN 5 GLYCERYL CAPRYLATE 0.5 AMMONIUM LAURYL SULPHATE 30 COCOAMPHODIACETATE DISODIUM 5 AQUA Qsp 100

Claims (13)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a combination of konjac mannan (or KGM) and gellan in a KGM / gellane weight ratio ranging from 25/75 to 45/55. 2. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the weight ratio KGM / gellane ranges from 30/70 to 40/60. 3. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 and 2, characterized in that the final concentration of the KGM / gellane combination is greater than 0.001%, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition. 4. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the final concentration of the KGM / gellan combination is less than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition. 5. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it is selected from a composition for skin care and a composition for hair care. 6. Cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it is free of surfactant 7. Use of a combination of konjac mannan (or KGM) and gellan in a KGM / gellane weight ratio ranging from 25/75 to 45/55 to adjust the viscosity of a cosmetic composition. 8. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that the weight ratio KGM / gellane ranges from 30/70 to 40/60. 9. Use according to one of claims 7 and 8, characterized in that the final concentration of the KGM / gellane combination in said cosmetic composition is greater than 0.001%, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition. 10. Use according to one of claims 7 to 9, characterized in that the final concentration of the KGM / gellane combination in said cosmetic composition is less than 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition. 11. Use according to one of claims 7 to 10, characterized in that said cosmetic composition is free of surfactant 12. Use according to one of claims 7 to 11, characterized in that said cosmetic composition is selected from a composition for skin care and a composition for hair care. 13. A process for the cosmetic treatment of keratin materials comprising applying to said keratin materials a cosmetic composition as defined in one of claims 1 to 6.