WO2019067184A1 - Vêtement non extensible ayant des panneaux d'étirement tricotés - Google Patents

Vêtement non extensible ayant des panneaux d'étirement tricotés Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019067184A1
WO2019067184A1 PCT/US2018/050011 US2018050011W WO2019067184A1 WO 2019067184 A1 WO2019067184 A1 WO 2019067184A1 US 2018050011 W US2018050011 W US 2018050011W WO 2019067184 A1 WO2019067184 A1 WO 2019067184A1
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
garment
stretch
panels
pair
fabric
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/US2018/050011
Other languages
English (en)
Inventor
Téchin KRAIKHAJORNKITTI
Original Assignee
Fortiac Corporation Dba Techin New York
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Fortiac Corporation Dba Techin New York filed Critical Fortiac Corporation Dba Techin New York
Priority to JP2020517913A priority Critical patent/JP2020535327A/ja
Priority to US16/651,147 priority patent/US20200268059A1/en
Priority to EP18860778.2A priority patent/EP3687326A4/fr
Publication of WO2019067184A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019067184A1/fr

Links

Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B1/00—Shirts
    • A41B1/08—Details
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D1/00—Garments
    • A41D1/04—Vests, jerseys, sweaters or the like
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D13/00—Professional, industrial or sporting protective garments, e.g. surgeons' gowns or garments protecting against blows or punches
    • A41D13/0015—Sports garments other than provided for in groups A41D13/0007 - A41D13/088
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D31/00—Materials specially adapted for outerwear
    • A41D31/02—Layered materials
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41B—SHIRTS; UNDERWEAR; BABY LINEN; HANDKERCHIEFS
    • A41B2400/00—Functions or special features of shirts, underwear, baby linen or handkerchiefs not provided for in other groups of this subclass
    • A41B2400/38—Shaping the contour of the body or adjusting the figure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2300/00—Details of garments
    • A41D2300/20—Inserts
    • A41D2300/22—Elastic inserts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A41—WEARING APPAREL
    • A41D—OUTERWEAR; PROTECTIVE GARMENTS; ACCESSORIES
    • A41D2500/00—Materials for garments
    • A41D2500/10—Knitted

Definitions

  • This disclosure relates generally to the field of garment manufacture, and more specifically, to knitted panels incorporated into a non- stretch garment.
  • Fitted garments that is, clothing that is generally form- fitting to the individual and not too large or too small, are very popular. Further, it is often desirable that such clothing not require closures, such as zippers, buttons, or snaps, because these features can be inconvenient, uncomfortable and/or unseemly on an otherwise streamlined design.
  • One option is to make the garment entirely out of material that stretches, such as synthetic lycra or a blend of lycra and cotton; however, such garments are generally more suited to active or athletic pursuits.
  • Another option is knits which derive their stretch characteristics from the structure of the stitches.
  • garments are often made of fabrics that are woven from materials that do not stretch or have a limited ability to stretch.
  • woven fabrics made from natural fibers, such as cotton, wool, linen, silk, etc. generally exhibit durable wear characteristics but have little or no stretch characteristic.
  • FIG. 1 is a front plan view of a T-shirt having knit stretch panels.
  • FIG. 2 is a left side plan view of the T-shirt of FIG. 1.
  • FIG. 3 is a rear plan view of the T-shirt of FIG. 1.
  • FIG. 4 is a front plan view of knit panels made for the side seams of the T-shirt of
  • FIG. 5 is a front plan view of knit panels made for the shoulder seams of the T-shirt of FIG. 1.
  • FIG. 6A is a front plan view of knit panels made for the underarm seams of the short sleeve T-shirt of FIG. 1.
  • FIG. 6B is a front plan view of knit panels made for the underarm seams of a long sleeve T-shirt.
  • FIGS. 1-3 illustrate the front, left side and rear views, respectively, of a basic garment 100, namely a short sleeve T-shirt having a corresponding front panel 110 and back panel 120 each made from a limited-stretch fabric.
  • a woven fabric such as such as cotton, wool, silk, cashmere, linen, mohair
  • a woven synthetic material such as acrylic, nylon, polyester, rayon
  • any woven mixed composition material such as rayon/cotton, polyester/cotton, polyester/wool, or wool/acrylic
  • rayon/cotton, polyester/cotton, polyester/wool, or wool/acrylic typically provides little or no stretch and/or recovery from stretch, and may often be used in form-fitting and/or custom-tailored clothing.
  • most woven fabrics have a relatively small stretch percentage.
  • the stretch of a fabric is usually measured across the grain horizontally, from selvedge to selvedge, and is termed two-way stretch.
  • the percentage of stretch in a fabric may be estimated by laying the fabric at ease against a ruler or ruler grid, marking an edge point, and then stretching the fabric to a comfortable extension point and reading the new measurement of the edge point. For example, if the fabric lays out at 4 inches at ease, and the fabric stretches comfortably to the 6 inch measure, then the 2 inch stretch of the 4 inch fabric sample amounts to a 50% stretch percentage.
  • Four-way stretch refers to when the fabric can stretch in both the horizontal and vertical directions.
  • woven fabrics are characterized by a relatively low stretch percentage, for example, in the range of 1-15%, depending on the fabric type and weave.
  • a typical 100% wool suit has a stretch percentage of about 4% while a 100% wool that is woven especially to provide some limited degree of stretch has a stretch percentage of only about 12%.
  • the front and back panels 110, 120 are attached together using a pair of side panels 130 and a pair of shoulder panels 140 each made from a fabric that stretches, such as a knit fabric.
  • a fabric that stretches such as a knit fabric.
  • Fabric patterns are typically designed for either woven fabric or knit fabric, but the patterns sized for knit fabric specify the amount of stretch required in the fabric to make the pattern.
  • a pair of sleeves 150 are attached to respective arm openings defined by the front, rear, side and shoulder panels. Although short sleeves are shown, the sleeves 150 could be any length or omitted altogether.
  • Each of the sleeves 150 is a generally circular or cylindrical fabric panel coupled to itself at seams 151 on the bottom side of its respective arm opening 101 by an underarm knit stretch panel 160.
  • the sleeves may instead be made of knit fabric such that the knit stretch panel is not required.
  • the pattern for cutting the front panel 110 defines side edges 111 or seams running from the bottom of the panel (bottom hem of shirt) to the seam 112 at arm openings 101 on each side; arm edges 112 or seams that define arm openings 101 in a generally half-circular pattern connecting the side edges to respective shoulder edges 113 or seams, the shoulder edges running horizontally generally along the shoulder line; and a scoop neck edge 114 or seam connecting each of the shoulder edges and defining the front of the neck opening 102.
  • the pattern for cutting the back panel 120 is similar to the front side pattern, defining side edges/seams 121 corresponding with the side edges 111 on front side 110; arm edges/seams 122 corresponding with the front side arm edges 112 that define the arm openings 101; shoulder edges/seams 123 running horizontally generally along the shoulder line in correspondence with front side edges 113; and a rear neck edge/seam 124 connecting each of the shoulder edges and defining the back of the neck opening 102.
  • the back panel includes a pleat down the center to provide additional comfort, although this element is not essential to the garment.
  • the back panel may instead be made entirely of knit fabric, i.e., the entire back panel is a stretch panel.
  • the side panels may or may not be included.
  • the knit side ribbing 130 can be formed in pairs as shown, then separated and sewn in place at the side seams of garment 100 as described above.
  • a finished edge feature 131 can be provided at the bottom of the ribbing.
  • the shoulder panels 140 are illustrated as one complete knitted piece including a finished edge 141 on one side thereof. The piece is then divided into six individual shoulder panels to service up to three different sets of shoulders on garments.
  • FIG. 6A illustrates a pair of the underarm panels 160 for a short sleeve shirt, each panel having a finished edge 161.
  • FIG. 6B illustrates a pair of the underarm panels 170 for a long sleeve shirt, each panel having a finished edge 171.
  • the side panels 130 could be
  • shoulder panels 140 could be
  • the underarm panels 160 could be approximately 4 inches tall and 3.5 inches wide for a short sleeve shirt, and approximately 18 inches taller for a long sleeve shirt. Proportional measurements can be determined for other sizing options.
  • the illustrated embodiment shows the side stretch panels, shoulder stretch panels, and underarm stretch panels as extending along the full length in their respective garment positionings, this feature is intended to be illustrative and not limiting. Shorter stretch panels could be employed at critical places in a particular garment. For example, the side stretch panels may run from the underarm position to just under the rib cage rather than all the way to the bottom hem to provide a better fit for a person with a larger upper body.
  • garment 100 does not have or need any closure mechanisms, such as buttons, zipper, etc., although such features could still be present for aesthetic purposes.
  • the knit panels are attached, e.g., cut and sewn, to the edges/seams of the woven garment panels to create an additional garment piece that allows for stretch in certain areas of the garment, for example, in the side, shoulder and underarm areas of exemplary garment 100.
  • each of the knit side panels 130 is attached to respective side seams 111, 121 and to an underarm portion of respective arm seams 112.
  • Each of the knit shoulder panels 140 is attached to respective shoulder seams 113, 123 and to a top portion of respective arm seams 112.
  • the shoulder panels 140 allow for flexibility in upper body movement and allow for enough stretch to allow a person's head and neck through the neckline 102 of the garment.
  • Each of the knit underarm panels 160 is attached to respective sleeve seams 151 and to the underarm portion of respective arm seams 112 together with the side seams 111, 121.
  • the underarm panels in FIG. 5 are sewn underneath the sleeve of the garment to allow the room for a variety of bicep and arm sizes and for enhanced movability through in the arm area. All the seams can be flat felled, French, overlock, or any other style or kind of sewn attachment.
  • the custom knit panels may require finished edges, for example, where the knit panel will not be sewn into a seam which can be made by full Milano stitches, links-links stitches, jersey tubular stitches, or any other knit stitch that provides a clean edge that will not deteriorate over time. These finished edges allow for a clean, unsewn edge depending on the placement of the knit panel. These type of knit finishes can vary depending on the placement and desired texture of the knit and are not limited to those described above. The only requirement of the finished edges is that they not fray or otherwise be destructive to the garment as it is worn repeatedly.
  • any fabric with a high degree of stretch that would provide the same utility described herein can also be used in the placement of the custom knit panels. These could include but are not limited to woven jersey fabrics, synthetic stretch fabrics, or any mixed composition fabric with a high degree of stretch. The requirements for using these fabrics would be the same as for the custom knit panels, in that the stretch panels would allow for a non-stretch or limited stretch fabric to be made into a garment that could be fitted to the body without any closures.

Landscapes

  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Outer Garments And Coats (AREA)
  • Professional, Industrial, Or Sporting Protective Garments (AREA)
  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Undergarments, Swaddling Clothes, Handkerchiefs Or Underwear Materials (AREA)

Abstract

Un vêtement formé d'un tissu tissé à étirement limité comprend des panneaux d'étirement tricotés pour fournir un étirement dans des zones clés du vêtement.
PCT/US2018/050011 2017-09-26 2018-09-07 Vêtement non extensible ayant des panneaux d'étirement tricotés WO2019067184A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (3)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2020517913A JP2020535327A (ja) 2017-09-26 2018-09-07 編物伸縮パネルを有する非伸縮性の衣服
US16/651,147 US20200268059A1 (en) 2017-09-26 2018-09-07 Non-Stretch Garment Having Knit Stretch Panels
EP18860778.2A EP3687326A4 (fr) 2017-09-26 2018-09-07 Vêtement non extensible ayant des panneaux d'étirement tricotés

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US201762563525P 2017-09-26 2017-09-26
US62/563,525 2017-09-26

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
WO2019067184A1 true WO2019067184A1 (fr) 2019-04-04

Family

ID=65903136

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
PCT/US2018/050011 WO2019067184A1 (fr) 2017-09-26 2018-09-07 Vêtement non extensible ayant des panneaux d'étirement tricotés

Country Status (4)

Country Link
US (1) US20200268059A1 (fr)
EP (1) EP3687326A4 (fr)
JP (1) JP2020535327A (fr)
WO (1) WO2019067184A1 (fr)

Families Citing this family (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
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US11457670B2 (en) * 2019-05-15 2022-10-04 Kryptek Outdoor Group, LLC Tactical shirts
CN113367414B (zh) * 2021-07-05 2021-11-09 北京保罗盛世集团股份有限公司 一种带有不易褶皱衣领的polo衫

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GB1295634A (fr) 1968-11-26 1972-11-08
CH595068A5 (en) 1975-08-12 1978-01-31 Metzler & Co Ag Fitted shirt or blouse of woven material
US20090025115A1 (en) * 2004-09-23 2009-01-29 Skins Compression Garments Pty Limited Compression Garments And A Method Of Manufacture
CA2504416A1 (fr) 2005-04-18 2006-10-18 Jeffrey W. Louis Vetement en tissu hybride extensible
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US20140130232A1 (en) * 2012-11-09 2014-05-15 Nike, Inc. Freedom Of Movement Jacket/Coat
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Title
See also references of EP3687326A4

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
US20200268059A1 (en) 2020-08-27
JP2020535327A (ja) 2020-12-03
EP3687326A1 (fr) 2020-08-05
EP3687326A4 (fr) 2021-07-07

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