WO2019000407A1 - Sulfate-free cleansing composition - Google Patents

Sulfate-free cleansing composition Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2019000407A1
WO2019000407A1 PCT/CN2017/091162 CN2017091162W WO2019000407A1 WO 2019000407 A1 WO2019000407 A1 WO 2019000407A1 CN 2017091162 W CN2017091162 W CN 2017091162W WO 2019000407 A1 WO2019000407 A1 WO 2019000407A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
group
composition
weight
surfactant
sodium
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/CN2017/091162
Other languages
French (fr)
Inventor
Yixi ZHOU
Yanan YUE
Haidong JIA
Yue Liu
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to PCT/CN2017/091162 priority Critical patent/WO2019000407A1/en
Priority to CN201780094441.4A priority patent/CN111491609B/en
Publication of WO2019000407A1 publication Critical patent/WO2019000407A1/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26Optical properties
    • A61K2800/262Transparent; Translucent
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to personal cleansing compositions. More particularly, the invention relates to a sulfate-free cleansing composition, for example a shampoo, having improved conditioning properties.
  • rheology modifiers in order to thicken the product.
  • the addition of the rheology modifiers can adversely impact the properties of the composition such as cleansing properties, foaming properties, rinsibility, by decreasing the foam and ease of distribution of the composition.
  • aqueous cleansing compositions are desirable as being more environmentally friendly as well as safer for consumers. These products are preferably transparent, which is pleasant in the appearance.
  • aqueous compositions can be thin and runny making them undesirable for personal use. Thickeners, including rheology modifiers, can be used to increase the viscosity of such compositions making them more aesthetically pleasing.
  • use of such viscosity increasing thickeners can adversely affect both the cosmetic property (cleansing and/or foaming) and moreover the aesthetic appearance of cleansing composition.
  • such a composition is expected to present a pleasant appearance, such as transparent appearance.
  • Such a composition at the same time possesses improved usage quality via its sufficient viscosity.
  • composition as such is expected to present an improved conditioning effect.
  • composition as described above is also expected to be stable over time.
  • the composition has pleasant esthetic properties such as a transparent appearance.
  • composition of the present invention is formulated to solve the above mentioned needs.
  • aqueous cleansing composition comprising:
  • the composition of the present invention is transparent.
  • the present invention is also directed to a process for cleansing a keratinous substrate involving contacting the keratinous substrate with the above-disclosed composition.
  • the present invention is also directed to a method of cleansing and conditioning a keratinous substrate involving contacting the keratinous substrate with the above-disclosed composition.
  • compositions of the invention provide not only good cleansing of keratinous substrates, but also create good and luxuriously feeling foam, while at the same time imparting good conditioning properties onto the substrate.
  • the compositions of the invention remain stable even at elevated (e.g. 45°C) or reduced temperatures (e.g. 4°C) .
  • ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges.
  • arange from 1 to 5 includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 as well as 1-4, 2-4, 1-3, etc.
  • At least one means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
  • Constanting means imparting to hair at least one property chosen from compatibility, manageability, moisture-retentivity, luster, shine, and softness. The state of conditioning is evaluated by measuring, and comparing the ease of combing of the treated hair in contrast with the untreated hair.
  • “Stable over time” is understood to mean compositions of the present invention which, after storage at all temperatures between 4°C and 45°C for 2 months, do not exhibit any macroscopic change in colour, smell or viscosity, any variation in pH or any variation in microscopic appearance.
  • transparent is understood to mean a composition having a turbidity of less than or equal to 200 NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Units) at 25°Cand preferably of less than or equal to 100 NTU at 25°C, measured with a 2100N Turbidimeter machine from HACH, wherein the sample cells for turbidity testing are made of quartz glass with reference Cat. 2084900.
  • NTU Nephelometric Turbidity Units
  • keratin fibers include but are not limited to, skin, hair, lips, eyelashes and nails.
  • APreferred keratinous substrate is hair.
  • the present invention relates to an aqueous cleansing composition
  • an aqueous cleansing composition comprising:
  • compositions of the present invention comprise at least one anionic surfactant that is not an alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate.
  • anionic surfactant that is not an alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate.
  • These surfactants can be chosen from salts, for example, alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts and alkaline-earth metal salts.
  • composition of the present invention is essentially free of sulfate-based surfactant.
  • essentially free of sulfate-based surfactant and “essentially sulfate free” refer to the contents of sulfate-based surfactants in the composition of the present invention. “Essentially free of sulfate-based surfactant” means that, while it prefers that no sulfate-based surfactants be present in the composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of sulfate-based surfactants in the composition of the invention, provided that these amounts do not materially affect the advantageous properties of the composition.
  • “essentially free of sulfate-based surfactant” means that the sulfate-based surfactants can be present in the composition at an amount of less than 2.0%by weight, typically less than 1.5%by weight, typically less than 1.0%by weight, typically less than 0.5%by weight, typically less than 0.1%by weight, and more typically 0%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • these surfactants can be chosen from salts, for example, alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts and alkaline-earth metal salts.
  • alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts and alkaline-earth metal salts.
  • alkaline-earth metal salts include magnesium salts of the following types of compounds: acyl isethionates, acyl glycianates, acyl taurates, acyl amino acids, acyl sarcosinates, sulfosuccinates, sulfonates, and sulfoacetates, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms (saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched) .
  • Non-limiting examples of acyl amino acids useful in the compositions of the invention include those having the following formula (I) :
  • R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 8 -C 16 and more preferentially C 12 -C 18 alkyl chain;
  • X is an organic cation, for instance an alkanolamine such as triethanolamine, or a mineral cation, for instance an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, or alternatively ammonia.
  • radicals R mention may be made of stearyl, myristyl, oleyl, lauryl and cocoyl.
  • N-acyl sarcosinates that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (INCI name: Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate) sold under the name Sarkosyl NL by the company Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L by the company SEPPIC, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate (INCI name: Sodium myristoyl sarcosinate) sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate by the company Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (INCI name: Sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate) sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate by the company Nikkol.
  • sodium lauroyl sarcosinate INCI name: Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate
  • Sarkosyl NL by the company Ciba
  • Oramix L by the company SEPPIC
  • sodium myristoyl sarcosinate INCI name:
  • taurates useful in the compositions of the invention include those having the following formula:
  • R is selected from H or an alkyl chain that has 1-24 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.
  • a particular taurate that can be used in the current compositions is sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.
  • Non-limiting examples of isethionates useful in the compositions of the invention include those having the formulas below:
  • R is selected from H or an alkyl chain that has 1-24 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.
  • Particular isethionates that can be used in the current compositions include, for example, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of sulfosuccinates useful in the compositions of the invention include those having the following formula:
  • R is selected from H or an alkyl chain that has 1-24 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.
  • a particular sulfosuccinate that can be used in the current compositions is disodium laureth sulfosuccinate.
  • Non-limiting examples of sulfonates useful in the compositions of the invention include those having the following formula:
  • R is selected from H or an alkyl chain that has 1-24 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.
  • a particular sulfonate that can be used in the current compositions is sodium C 14-16 olefin sulfonate.
  • Non-limiting examples of sulfoacetates useful in the compositions of the invention include those having the following formula:
  • R is as defined above for the sulfonates.
  • a particular sulfoacetate that can be used in the current compositions is sodium lauryl sulfoacetate.
  • the at least one anionic surfactant is present in a total amount ranging from 1%to 15%by weight, preferably from 2%to 13%by weight, more preferably from 4%to 12%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions of the present invention comprise at least one amphoteric propionate surfactant.
  • Suitable amphoteric surfactants that are used in the composition of the present invention are known as derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical can be straight or branched chain and wherein one of the aliphatic substituents contains from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate, phosphate, or phosphonate.
  • Non-limiting examples of propionates which can be used in the current compositions include aminopropionates, aminodipropionates, amphopropionates, amphodipropionates, or a mixture thereof.
  • amphoteric surfactants of propionates type mention may be made of the compounds having the following formula (A) :
  • R a represents a C 7 -C 17 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R a -COOH;
  • R b represents a hydrogen group, or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group, optionally substituted by at least one group selected from–OH group, and/or-CH 2 CH 2 COO - group;
  • n is equal to 0, 1 or 2;
  • Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.
  • amphoteric propionate surfactants that are suitable for the present invention include sodium lauroyl methylaminopropionate, sodium cocaminopropionate, sodium cocaminodipropionate, ammonium cocaminopropionate, ammonium cocaminodipropionate, sodium cocamphopropionate, ammonium cocamphopropionate, triethanonlamine cocamphopropionate, sodium cornamphopropionate, ammonium cornamphopropionate, triehtanonlamine cornamphopropionate, sodium lauraminopropionate, ammonium lauraminopropionate, triethanonlamine lauraminopropionate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, ammonium lauroamphopropionate, triethanonlamine lauroamphopropionate, ammonium lauriminodipropionate, triethanonlamine lauriminodipropionate, disodium lauriminodipropionate, sodium
  • R a represents a C 7 -C 17 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from hydrolysed coconut oil, preferably heptyl, nonyl, undecyl, or heptadecyl group;
  • R b represents a hydrogen group, amethyl group, or a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group
  • n is equal to 0, or 1;
  • Z represents a hydrogen group
  • amphoteric propionate surfactants that are used in the present invention include sodium lauroyl methylaminopropionate, which is, for example, commercially available under the trade name AS-L sold by the company NOF Corporation, sodium cocoamphopropionate which is commercially available under the trade name AM KSF 40 sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, or a mixture thereof.
  • composition of the present invention comprises at least one additional amphoteric surfactant, which is different from the propionate surfactant as described.
  • Such surfactants are typically selected from betaines, sultaines, amphoacetates, and mixtures thereof.
  • betaines which can be used in the current compositions include those having the formulas (IIA-D) below:
  • R 10 is an alkyl group having 8-18 carbon atoms
  • n is an integer from 1 to 3.
  • Particularly useful betaines include, for example, coco betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxy sulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, capryl/capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.
  • the at least one betaine compound is selected from the group consisting of coco betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, behenyl betaine, capryl/capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, and mixtures thereof, and more typically cocamidopropyl betaine.
  • amphoteric surfactants that are useful to the present invention are selected from the group consisting of cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium lauroyl methylaminopropionate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, or a mixture thereof.
  • the at least one propionate amphoteric surfactant (b) is used in an amount from 0.5%to 20%by weight, preferably from 1%to about 15%by weight, and more preferably from 2%to 11%by weight, including all ranges and sub ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition as a whole.
  • the total amount of the amphoteric surfactants, the propionate amphoteric surfactant (b) and additional amphoteric surfactants, when exists ranges from 0.5%to 20%by weight, preferably from 1%to about 15%by weight, and more preferably from 2%to 11%by weight, including all ranges and sub ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition as a whole.
  • the sum of the weight of the anionic surfactant a) and the amphoteric surfactant b) ranges from 5%to 30%by weight, preferably from 10%to 20%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the sum of the weight of the anionic surfactant a) and the amphoteric surfactant b) is 17%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio of the at least one anionic surfactant a) and the at least one amphoteric propionate surfactant b) ranges from 1/8 to 5/1, preferably from 1/6 to 3/1.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one cationic cyclopolymer having at least one ring-structure in the backbone of the polymer, and the cyclopolymer having at least one quaternary ammonium group including at least one C 8 -C 30 hydrocarbon group.
  • the (c) cationic cyclopolymer has at least one ring-structure in the backbone of the polymer.
  • the polymer backbone includes at least one ring structure.
  • acarbon-carbon main chain of the polymer may be bonded to a ring structure, and another carbon-carbon main chain of the polymer may be bonded to the ring structure, wherein the bonding positions of the main chains are different.
  • the ring structure may be formed by only carbon-carbon links, and may include at least one heteroatom such as an oxygen atom and a nitrogen atom.
  • the nitrogen atom in the ring structure may be quaternized.
  • the ring may be a 4-8 membered ring, preferably a 4-6 membered ring, and more preferably a 5 or 6 membered ring.
  • the (c) cationic cyclopolymer comprise no ring structure which is pendent from the backbone of the polymer.
  • the (c) cationic cyclopolymer having at least one ring-structure in the backbone of the polymer may be chosen from cationic cellulose polymers and cationic non-cellulose polymers.
  • the cationic cellulose polymers having at least one ring-structure in the backbone of the polymer and have at least one quaternary ammonium group including at least one C 8 -C 30 hydrocarbon group.
  • the alkyl radicals borne by the quaternary ammonium group may preferably contain from 10 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
  • quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C 8 -C 30 fatty chains examples include the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C 12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X 529-8 (C 18 alkyl) or Softcat TM Polymer SL100, Softcat TM SX-1300X, Softcat TM SX-1300H, Softcat TM SL-5, Softcat TM SL-30, Softcat TM SL-60, Softcat TM SK-MH, Softcat TM SX-400X, Softcat TM SX-400H, SoftCat TM SK-L, Softcat TM SK-M, and Softcat TM SK-H, sold by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel, QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C 18 alkyl) sold by the company
  • the amount of the (c) cationic cyclopolymer having at least one ring-structure in the backbone of the polymer in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.001%to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.01%to 5%by weight, and more preferably from 0.1%to 3%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention is an aqueous composition.
  • aqueous composition it means the composition of the invention comprises an aqueous phase.
  • the composition does not contain fatty phase.
  • composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase ofthe present invention comprises water.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature of 20-25°C) , for instance polyols such as C 2 -C 6 polyols, more particularly glycerin, hexylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tripropylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-ortriethylene glycol (C 1 -C 4 ) alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyols such as C 2 -C 6 polyols, more particularly glycerin, hexylene glycol
  • glycol ethers especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms
  • the aqueous composition of the present invention may take the form of liquid, creams or gel.
  • the composition is in form of gel.
  • the composition of the present invention is transparent.
  • the turbidity of the composition of the present invention is less than or equal to 50 NTU at 25°C, measured with a 2100N Turbidimeter machine from HACH, preferably is less than or equal to 25 NTU at 25°C.
  • the composition has a pH value of less than or equal to 6, preferably from 3.5 to 5.8, more preferably from 4 to 5.6, even more preferably from 5 to 5.6.
  • the composition of the present invention has a viscosity from 5000 mPa ⁇ sto 20000 mPa ⁇ s, measured using Brookfield viscometer at 50 RPM using spindle T-C.
  • the composition of the present invention has a viscosity offrom 5000 mPa ⁇ sto 19000 mPa ⁇ s, preferably from 5500 mPa ⁇ sto 17000 mPa ⁇ s, measured using Brookfield viscometer at 50 RPM using spindle T-C.
  • composition of the present disclosure may additionally include any other adjuvant or additive that is usually used in the field of self-cleaning products, in particular shampoos.
  • additives include pH adjusting agents, preserving agents, sequestrants and chelators, consistency regulators, thickeners, antioxidants, fragrances, dyestuffs such as soluble dyes and pigments, optical brighteners, electrolytes and stabilizers, plant extracts, proteins, amino acids, vitamins, glycols, emollients, derivatives of the foregoing, and mixtures thereof. Additional examples of additives may be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9 th ed. 2002, as subsequent editions) .
  • Non-limiting examples of pH adjusting agents includes potassium acetate, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, phosphoric acid, succinic acid, sodium citrate, citric acid, salicylic acid, glutamic acid, maleic acid, aspartic acid, boric acid, lactic acid, sodium hydrogen carbonate, ethanol amines, and mixtures thereof.
  • the pH adjusting agent is selected from sodium hydroxide, citric acid, salicylic acid, glutamic acid, maleic acid, aspartic acid, or a mixture thereof.
  • the pH adjusting agent is used in an amount so that the pH of the composition of the present invention is less than or equal to 6.
  • the pH adjusting agent is used in an amount from 0.01%to 8%by weight, preferably from 0.05%to 5%by weight, more preferably from 0.1%to 2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the present invention relates to a transparent aqueous cleansing composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
  • R a represents a C 7 -C 17 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from hydrolysed coconut oil, preferably heptyl, nonyl, undecyl, or heptadecyl group;
  • R b represents a hydrogen group, amethyl group, or a ⁇ -hydroxyethyl group
  • n is equal to 0, or 1;
  • Z represents a hydrogen group
  • Another aspect of the invention is a process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibers, especially the hair, comprising the steps of applying to said fibers the composition of the invention, and then rinsing with water after an optional period of exposure.
  • Yet another aspect of the present invention is the use of the above composition of the invention for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibers, especially hair.
  • Comparative formulas D1 and D2 contain, respectively, instead of the polymer (c) as claimed, HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, or POLYQUATERNIUM-10, which are cationic cyclopolymer having at least one ring-structure in the backbone of the polymer, but no quaternary ammonium group includes at least one C 8 -C 30 hydrocarbon group; Comparative formula D3 contains, instead of propionate surfactant b) , sodium cocoamphoacetate. All the comparative formulas D1 to D3 are corresponding to the invention formula D.
  • Stability was evaluated by storing the formulas for 2 months at 4°C, 20°C, and 45°C for 2 months.
  • Test formula was randomly applied side by side to one half of the head and compared to the standard on the remaining half. This test protocol was used to evaluate foam, detergency, and conditioning of the hair. The scales for measuring these parameters ranged between 1 to 5, wherein 1 is poor, and 5 is superior and very good effect; and 3 is acceptable effect.
  • Invention formulas 1, AB, GE, and D are stable over 2 months under different temperatures, whereas comparative formula D1 is not stable after 7 days under 50°C (precipitation at the bottom of the formula container) .
  • D1 to D3 are very liquid, i.e., presenting poor usage quality.
  • the invention formulas 1, AB, GE, and D all present sufficient viscosity, and therefore improve the usage quality.

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Abstract

Disclosed is a transparent aqueous composition comprising (a) at least one anionic surfactant that is not an alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate; (b) at least one amphoteric propionate surfactant; and (c) at least one cationic cyclopolymer having at least one ring-structure in the backbone of the polymer; the cyclopolymer having at least one quaternary ammonium group including at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon group. Also disclosed are methods of cleaning and conditioning hair using said compositions and methods of making said compositions.

Description

SULFATE-FREE CLEANSING COMPOSITION TECHNICAL FIELD
The present invention relates to personal cleansing compositions. More particularly, the invention relates to a sulfate-free cleansing composition, for example a shampoo, having improved conditioning properties.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
In the field of cleansing products, an increasing number of consumers prefer sulfate-free cleansing compositions due to perceived mildness and desirable sensorial experience when applying on keratin materials, in particular hair. However, sulfate-free cleansers are difficult to thicken sufficiently to afford the user good usage qualities.
One approach to solve the problem is to use high levels of rheology modifiers in order to thicken the product. However, the addition of the rheology modifiers can adversely impact the properties of the composition such as cleansing properties, foaming properties, rinsibility, by decreasing the foam and ease of distribution of the composition.
On the other hand, aqueous cleansing compositions are desirable as being more environmentally friendly as well as safer for consumers. These products are preferably transparent, which is pleasant in the appearance. However, aqueous compositions can be thin and runny making them undesirable for personal use. Thickeners, including rheology modifiers, can be used to increase the viscosity of such compositions making them more aesthetically pleasing. However, as mentioned above, use of such viscosity increasing thickeners can adversely affect both the cosmetic property (cleansing and/or foaming) and moreover the aesthetic appearance of cleansing composition.
No prior arts have ever disclosed an aqueous cleansing composition that is sulfate-free, and presents an improved usage quality via its sufficient viscosity, meanwhile the composition has good cosmetic properties to the substrate applied on. 
Preferably, such a composition is expected to present a pleasant appearance, such as transparent appearance.
Thus, there is a need for a cleansing composition, particularly a shampoo, which is effective at cleaning.
Such a composition at the same time possesses improved usage quality via its sufficient viscosity.
Meanwhile, the composition as such is expected to present an improved conditioning effect.
The composition as described above is also expected to be stable over time.
Preferably, the composition has pleasant esthetic properties such as a transparent appearance.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The composition of the present invention is formulated to solve the above mentioned needs.
In particular, the present invention relates to an aqueous cleansing composition comprising:
(a) at least one anionic surfactant that is not an alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate; 
(b) at least one amphoteric propionate surfactant; and
(c) at least one cationic cyclopolymer having at least one ring-structure in the backbone of the polymer, the cyclopolymer having at least one quaternary ammonium group including at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon group.
Preferably, the composition of the present invention is transparent.
The present invention is also directed to a process for cleansing a keratinous substrate involving contacting the keratinous substrate with the above-disclosed composition.
The present invention is also directed to a method of cleansing and conditioning a keratinous substrate involving contacting the keratinous substrate with the above-disclosed composition.
It is to be understood that both the foregoing general description and the following detailed description are exemplary and explanatory only, and are not restrictive of the invention.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The compositions of the invention provide not only good cleansing of keratinous substrates, but also create good and luxuriously feeling foam, while at the same time imparting good conditioning properties onto the substrate. The  compositions of the invention remain stable even at elevated (e.g. 45℃) or reduced temperatures (e.g. 4℃) .
All percentages and ratios are calculated by weight unless otherwise indicated. All percentages are calculated based on the weight of the total composition unless otherwise indicated.
As used herein, all ranges provided are meant to include every specific range within, and combination of sub ranges between, the given ranges. Thus, arange from 1 to 5, includes 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5 as well as 1-4, 2-4, 1-3, etc.
Definitions
“About” as used herein means within 10%of the indicated number (e.g. “about 10%” means 9%–11%and “about 2%” means 1.8%-2.2%) .
"At least one" as used herein means one or more and thus includes individual components as well as mixtures/combinations.
“Comprising” as used herein is used in the inclusive sense of “having” or “including” and not in the exclusive sense of “consisting only of. ”
“Conditioning” as used herein means imparting to hair at least one property chosen from compatibility, manageability, moisture-retentivity, luster, shine, and softness. The state of conditioning is evaluated by measuring, and comparing the ease of combing of the treated hair in contrast with the untreated hair.
“INCI” is an abbreviation of International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, which is a system of names provided by the International Nomenclature Committee of the Personal Care Products Council to describe personal care ingredients.
“Stable over time” is understood to mean compositions of the present invention which, after storage at all temperatures between 4℃ and 45℃ for 2 months, do not exhibit any macroscopic change in colour, smell or viscosity, any variation in pH or any variation in microscopic appearance.
The term “transparent” is understood to mean a composition having a turbidity of less than or equal to 200 NTU (Nephelometric Turbidity Units) at 25℃and preferably of less than or equal to 100 NTU at 25℃, measured with a 2100N Turbidimeter machine from HACH, wherein the sample cells for turbidity testing are made of quartz glass with reference Cat. 2084900.
“keratin fibers” , as used herein, include but are not limited to, skin, hair, lips, eyelashes and nails. APreferred keratinous substrate is hair.
The present invention relates to an aqueous cleansing composition comprising:
(a) at least one anionic surfactant that is not sulfate-based;
(b) at least one amphoteric propionate surfactant; and
(c) at least one cationic cyclopolymer having at least one ring-structure in the backbone of the polymer, the cyclopolymer having at least one quaternary ammonium group including at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon group.
Anionic Surfactant (a)
The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one anionic surfactant that is not an alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate. These surfactants can be chosen from salts, for example, alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts and alkaline-earth metal salts.
In other words, the composition of the present invention is essentially free of sulfate-based surfactant.
The terms “essentially free of sulfate-based surfactant” and “essentially sulfate free” refer to the contents of sulfate-based surfactants in the composition of the present invention. “Essentially free of sulfate-based surfactant” means that, while it prefers that no sulfate-based surfactants be present in the composition, it is possible to have very small amounts of sulfate-based surfactants in the composition of the invention, provided that these amounts do not materially affect the advantageous properties of the composition.
In particular, “essentially free of sulfate-based surfactant” means that the sulfate-based surfactants can be present in the composition at an amount of less than 2.0%by weight, typically less than 1.5%by weight, typically less than 1.0%by weight, typically less than 0.5%by weight, typically less than 0.1%by weight, and more typically 0%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
According to the present invention, these surfactants can be chosen from salts, for example, alkali metal salts such as sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, amino alcohol salts and alkaline-earth metal salts.
Examples of alkaline-earth metal salts include magnesium salts of the following types of compounds: acyl isethionates, acyl glycianates, acyl taurates, acyl amino acids, acyl sarcosinates, sulfosuccinates, sulfonates, and sulfoacetates, the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms (saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched) .
Non-limiting examples of acyl amino acids useful in the compositions of the invention include those having the following formula (I) :
Figure PCTCN2017091162-appb-000001
in which
R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C16 and more preferentially C12-C18 alkyl chain;
X is an organic cation, for instance an alkanolamine such as triethanolamine, or a mineral cation, for instance an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, or alternatively ammonia.
Among the preferred radicals R, mention may be made of stearyl, myristyl, oleyl, lauryl and cocoyl.
Among the N-acyl sarcosinates that may be used according to the invention, mention may be made of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate (INCI name: Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate) sold under the name Sarkosyl NL 
Figure PCTCN2017091162-appb-000002
by the company Ciba or sold under the name Oramix L 
Figure PCTCN2017091162-appb-000003
by the company SEPPIC, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate (INCI name: Sodium myristoyl sarcosinate) sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate 
Figure PCTCN2017091162-appb-000004
by the company Nikkol, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (INCI name: Sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate) sold under the name Nikkol Sarcosinate 
Figure PCTCN2017091162-appb-000005
by the company Nikkol.
Use will be made more particularly of sodium N-lauroyl sarcosinate (INCI name: Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate) .
Non-limiting examples of taurates useful in the compositions of the invention include those having the following formula:
Figure PCTCN2017091162-appb-000006
wherein R is selected from H or an alkyl chain that has 1-24 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.
A particular taurate that can be used in the current compositions is sodium methyl cocoyl taurate.
Non-limiting examples of isethionates useful in the compositions of the invention include those having the formulas below:
Figure PCTCN2017091162-appb-000007
wherein R is selected from H or an alkyl chain that has 1-24 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.
Particular isethionates that can be used in the current compositions include, for example, sodium cocoyl isethionate, sodium lauroyl methyl isethionate, and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting examples of sulfosuccinates useful in the compositions of the invention include those having the following formula:
Figure PCTCN2017091162-appb-000008
wherein R is selected from H or an alkyl chain that has 1-24 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.
A particular sulfosuccinate that can be used in the current compositions is disodium laureth sulfosuccinate.
Non-limiting examples of sulfonates useful in the compositions of the invention include those having the following formula:
Figure PCTCN2017091162-appb-000009
wherein R is selected from H or an alkyl chain that has 1-24 carbon atoms, said chain being saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched.
A particular sulfonate that can be used in the current compositions is sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate.
Non-limiting examples of sulfoacetates useful in the compositions of the invention include those having the following formula:
Figure PCTCN2017091162-appb-000010
wherein R is as defined above for the sulfonates.
A particular sulfoacetate that can be used in the current compositions is sodium lauryl sulfoacetate.
According to a preferred embodiment, the at least one anionic surfactant is present in a total amount ranging from 1%to 15%by weight, preferably from 2%to 13%by weight, more preferably from 4%to 12%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
Amphoteric Surfactant (b)
The compositions of the present invention comprise at least one amphoteric propionate surfactant.
Suitable amphoteric surfactants that are used in the composition of the present invention are known as derivatives of aliphatic secondary and tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical can be straight or branched chain and wherein one of the aliphatic substituents contains from 8 to 18 carbon atoms and one contains an anionic group such as carboxy, sulfonate, phosphate, or phosphonate.
Non-limiting examples of propionates which can be used in the current compositions include aminopropionates, aminodipropionates, amphopropionates, amphodipropionates, or a mixture thereof.
In particular, among the amphoteric surfactants of propionates type, mention may be made of the compounds having the following formula (A) :
Ra-CO- (N (Z) CH2n- (CH2m-N+ (Rb) (CH2CH2COO-) (A)
in which:
Ra represents a C7-C17 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH;
Rb represents a hydrogen group, or a C1-C4 alkyl group, optionally substituted by at least one group selected from–OH group, and/or-CH2CH2COO-group;
m or n, respectively, is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and
Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group.
Examples of the amphoteric propionate surfactants that are suitable for the present invention include sodium lauroyl methylaminopropionate, sodium cocaminopropionate, sodium cocaminodipropionate, ammonium cocaminopropionate, ammonium cocaminodipropionate, sodium cocamphopropionate, ammonium cocamphopropionate, triethanonlamine cocamphopropionate, sodium cornamphopropionate, ammonium cornamphopropionate, triehtanonlamine cornamphopropionate, sodium lauraminopropionate, ammonium lauraminopropionate, triethanonlamine lauraminopropionate, sodium lauroamphopropionate, ammonium lauroamphopropionate, triethanonlamine lauroamphopropionate, ammonium lauriminodipropionate, triethanonlamine lauriminodipropionate, disodium lauriminodipropionate, triethanonlamine cocaminopropionate, triethanonlamine cocaminodipropionate, disodium caproamphopropionate, discodium capryloamphodipropionate, disodium cocamphodipropionate, or discodium oleoamphodipropionate.
More particularly, in the formula (A) :
Ra represents a C7-C17 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from hydrolysed coconut oil, preferably heptyl, nonyl, undecyl, or heptadecyl group;
Rb represents a hydrogen group, amethyl group, or aβ-hydroxyethyl group;
m or n, respectively, is equal to 0, or 1;
Z represents a hydrogen group.
According to a preferred embodiment, the amphoteric propionate surfactants that are used in the present invention include sodium lauroyl methylaminopropionate, which is, for example, commercially available under the trade name
Figure PCTCN2017091162-appb-000011
AS-L sold by the company NOF Corporation, sodium cocoamphopropionate which is commercially available under the trade name 
Figure PCTCN2017091162-appb-000012
AM KSF 40 sold by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, or a mixture thereof.
According to another embodiment, the composition of the present invention comprises at least one additional amphoteric surfactant, which is different from the propionate surfactant as described.
Such surfactants are typically selected from betaines, sultaines, amphoacetates, and mixtures thereof.
Non-limiting examples of betaines which can be used in the current compositions include those having the formulas (IIA-D) below:
Figure PCTCN2017091162-appb-000013
wherein
R10 is an alkyl group having 8-18 carbon atoms; and
n is an integer from 1 to 3.
Particularly useful betaines include, for example, coco betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxy sulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, capryl/capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.
Typically, the at least one betaine compound is selected from the group consisting of coco betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, behenyl betaine, capryl/capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, and mixtures thereof, and more typically cocamidopropyl betaine.
According to a preferred embodiment, the amphoteric surfactants that are useful to the present invention are selected from the group consisting of cocamidopropyl betaine, sodium lauroyl methylaminopropionate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, or a mixture thereof.
Preferably, in the present compositions, the at least one propionate amphoteric surfactant (b) is used in an amount from 0.5%to 20%by weight, preferably from 1%to about 15%by weight, and more preferably from 2%to 11%by weight, including all ranges and sub ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition as a whole.
More preferably, in the present compositions, the total amount of the amphoteric surfactants, the propionate amphoteric surfactant (b) and additional amphoteric surfactants, when exists, ranges from 0.5%to 20%by weight, preferably from 1%to about 15%by weight, and more preferably from 2%to 11%by weight, including all ranges and sub ranges there between, based on the total weight of the composition as a whole.
According to a preferred embodiment, the sum of the weight of the anionic surfactant a) and the amphoteric surfactant b) ranges from 5%to 30%by weight, preferably from 10%to 20%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
In an even more preferred embodiment, the sum of the weight of the anionic surfactant a) and the amphoteric surfactant b) is 17%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
According to a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of the at least one anionic surfactant a) and the at least one amphoteric propionate surfactant b) ranges from 1/8 to 5/1, preferably from 1/6 to 3/1.
Cationic Cyclopolymer (c)
The composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one cationic cyclopolymer having at least one ring-structure in the backbone of the polymer, and the cyclopolymer having at least one quaternary ammonium group including at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon group.
The (c) cationic cyclopolymer has at least one ring-structure in the backbone of the polymer. In other words, the polymer backbone includes at least one ring structure. Thus, for example, acarbon-carbon main chain of the polymer may be bonded to a ring structure, and another carbon-carbon main chain of the polymer may be bonded to the ring structure, wherein the bonding positions of the main chains are different.
The ring structure may be formed by only carbon-carbon links, and may include at least one heteroatom such as an oxygen atom and a nitrogen atom. The nitrogen atom in the ring structure may be quaternized. The ring may be a 4-8 membered ring, preferably a 4-6 membered ring, and more preferably a 5 or 6 membered ring.
It is preferable that the (c) cationic cyclopolymer comprise no ring structure which is pendent from the backbone of the polymer.
The (c) cationic cyclopolymer having at least one ring-structure in the backbone of the polymer may be chosen from cationic cellulose polymers and cationic non-cellulose polymers.
According to the present invention, the cationic cellulose polymers having at least one ring-structure in the backbone of the polymer and have at least one quaternary ammonium group including at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon group. The alkyl radicals borne by the quaternary ammonium group may preferably contain from 10 to 30 carbon atoms. The aryl radicals preferably denote phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.
Examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses containing C8-C30 fatty chains that may be mentioned include the products Quatrisoft LM 200, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18-A, Quatrisoft LM-X 529-18B (C12 alkyl) and Quatrisoft LM-X  529-8 (C18 alkyl) or SoftcatTMPolymer SL100, SoftcatTMSX-1300X, SoftcatTMSX-1300H, SoftcatTMSL-5, SoftcatTMSL-30, SoftcatTMSL-60, SoftcatTMSK-MH, SoftcatTMSX-400X, SoftcatTMSX-400H, SoftCatTMSK-L, SoftcatTMSK-M, and SoftcatTMSK-H, sold by the company Amerchol and the products Crodacel QM, Crodacel, QL (C12 alkyl) and Crodacel QS (C18 alkyl) sold by the company Croda.
Among these quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcelluloses the products corresponding to INCI name Polyquaternium-67 are preferred.
The amount of the (c) cationic cyclopolymer having at least one ring-structure in the backbone of the polymer in the composition according to the present invention may range from 0.001%to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.01%to 5%by weight, and more preferably from 0.1%to 3%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Aqueous composition
The composition of the present invention is an aqueous composition. By “aqueous composition” it means the composition of the invention comprises an aqueous phase.
Preferably, the composition does not contain fatty phase.
The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase. 
The aqueous phase ofthe present invention comprises water.
The aqueous phase may also comprise water-miscible organic solvents (at room temperature of 20-25℃) , for instance polyols such as C2-C6 polyols, more particularly glycerin, hexylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di-or tripropylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, mono-, di-ortriethylene glycol (C1-C4) alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
Preferably the aqueous composition of the present invention may take the form of liquid, creams or gel. Preferably, the composition is in form of gel.
Transparency
As described above, the composition of the present invention is transparent.
According to one embodiment, the turbidity of the composition of the present invention is less than or equal to 50 NTU at 25℃, measured with a 2100N  Turbidimeter machine from HACH, preferably is less than or equal to 25 NTU at 25℃.
pH value
For the purpose of the present invention, the composition has a pH value of less than or equal to 6, preferably from 3.5 to 5.8, more preferably from 4 to 5.6, even more preferably from 5 to 5.6.
Viscosity
Preferably, the composition of the present invention has a viscosity from 5000 mPa·sto 20000 mPa·s, measured using Brookfield viscometer at 50 RPM using spindle T-C.
Preferably, the composition of the present invention has a viscosity offrom 5000 mPa·sto 19000 mPa·s, preferably from 5500 mPa·sto 17000 mPa·s, measured using Brookfield viscometer at 50 RPM using spindle T-C.
Additives/Further Optional Additional Components
The composition of the present disclosure may additionally include any other adjuvant or additive that is usually used in the field of self-cleaning products, in particular shampoos.
A person skilled in the art would know which adjuvants and/or additives to select to achieve the desired results (e.g. preservatives) without adversely affecting the properties of claimed emulsions.
For example, such additives include pH adjusting agents, preserving agents, sequestrants and chelators, consistency regulators, thickeners, antioxidants, fragrances, dyestuffs such as soluble dyes and pigments, optical brighteners, electrolytes and stabilizers, plant extracts, proteins, amino acids, vitamins, glycols, emollients, derivatives of the foregoing, and mixtures thereof. Additional examples of additives may be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (9th ed. 2002, as subsequent editions) .
Non-limiting examples of pH adjusting agents includes potassium acetate, potassium hydroxide, sodium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, phosphoric acid, succinic acid, sodium citrate, citric acid, salicylic acid, glutamic acid, maleic acid,  aspartic acid, boric acid, lactic acid, sodium hydrogen carbonate, ethanol amines, and mixtures thereof.
In a particular embodiment, the pH adjusting agent is selected from sodium hydroxide, citric acid, salicylic acid, glutamic acid, maleic acid, aspartic acid, or a mixture thereof.
The pH adjusting agent is used in an amount so that the pH of the composition of the present invention is less than or equal to 6.
According to a preferred embodiment, the pH adjusting agent is used in an amount from 0.01%to 8%by weight, preferably from 0.05%to 5%by weight, more preferably from 0.1%to 2%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Notwithstanding that the numerical ranges and parameters setting forth the broad scope of the invention are approximations, the numerical values set forth in the specific examples are reported as precisely as possible. The following examples are intended to illustrate the invention without limiting the scope as a result. The percentages are given on a weight basis unless otherwise specified.
According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates to a transparent aqueous cleansing composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
(a) from 4%to 12%by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, or a mixture thereof;
(b) from 2%to 10%by weight of at least one amphoteric propionate surfactant of formula (A) :
Ra-CO- (N (Z) CH2n- (CH2m-N+ (Rb) (CH2CH2COO-) (A)
in which:
Ra represents a C7-C17 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from hydrolysed coconut oil, preferably heptyl, nonyl, undecyl, or heptadecyl group;
Rb represents a hydrogen group, amethyl group, or aβ-hydroxyethyl group;
m or n, respectively, is equal to 0, or 1;
Z represents a hydrogen group; and
(c) from 0.1%to 3%by weight of at least one quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcellulose containing C8-C30 fatty chains.
Method and Use
Another aspect of the invention is a process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibers, especially the hair, comprising the steps of applying to said fibers the composition of the invention, and then rinsing with water after an optional period of exposure.
Yet another aspect of the present invention is the use of the above composition of the invention for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibers, especially hair.
Non limiting examples illustrating the invention are given.
EXAMPLES
The invention formulas and comparative formulas below were prepared:
Figure PCTCN2017091162-appb-000014
Comparative formulas D1 and D2 contain, respectively, instead of the polymer (c) as claimed, HYDROXYPROPYL GUAR HYDROXYPROPYL TRIMONIUM CHLORIDE, or POLYQUATERNIUM-10, which are cationic cyclopolymer having at least one ring-structure in the backbone of the polymer, but no quaternary ammonium group includes at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon group; Comparative formula D3 contains, instead of propionate surfactant b) , sodium cocoamphoacetate. All the comparative formulas D1 to D3 are corresponding to the invention formula D.
The above disclosed formulas were prepared according to a conventionally known formulation process for hair shampoos.
EVALUATION AND PROTOCOLS
The evaluation of the invention and comparative formulas above were conducted.
Stability was evaluated by storing the formulas for 2 months at 4℃, 20℃, and 45℃ for 2 months.
Viscosity and transparency of the formulas were evaluated following the protocol disclosed above.
Finally, the cosmetic properties and usage of the formulas were evaluated by panel test.
Panel testing was conducted on 17 trained experts and invention formulas and comparative formulas were evaluated by the experts. The formulas were blinded so the experts did not know the name or nature of each formula. Test formula was randomly applied side by side to one half of the head and compared to the standard on the remaining half. This test protocol was used to evaluate foam, detergency, and conditioning of the hair. The scales for measuring these parameters ranged between 1 to 5, wherein 1 is poor, and 5 is superior and very good effect; and 3 is acceptable effect.
The results of this assessment are summarized in Table below.
Figure PCTCN2017091162-appb-000015
Invention formulas 1, AB, GE, and D are stable over 2 months under different temperatures, whereas comparative formula D1 is not stable after 7 days under 50℃ (precipitation at the bottom of the formula container) .
All the formulas, both invention and comparative, have very good cosmetic properties, including cleansing, foaming, and rinsing.
As observed in the table above, D1 to D3 are very liquid, i.e., presenting poor usage quality. Whereas the invention formulas 1, AB, GE, and D all present sufficient viscosity, and therefore improve the usage quality.
Preferably, comparing to the comparative formulas D1 to D3, all the invention formulas present pleasant transparent appearances, whereas the comparative formulas are either translucent, or opaque.

Claims (12)

  1. An aqueous cleansing composition comprising:
    (a) at least one anionic surfactant that is not an alkyl sulfate or alkyl ether sulfate;
    (b) at least one amphoteric propionate surfactant; and
    (c) at least one cationic cyclopolymer having at least one ring-structure in the backbone of the polymer, the cyclopolymer having at least one quaternary ammonium group including at least one C8-C30 hydrocarbon group.
  2. Composition of claim 1 is transparent.
  3. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 or 2, wherein the anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of acyl isethionates, acyl glycianates, acyl taurates, acyl amino acids, acyl sarcosinates, sulfosuccinates, sulfonates, and sulfoacetates, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms; preferably selected from the group consisting of acyl amino acids of formula (I):
    Figure PCTCN2017091162-appb-100001
    in which
    R is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C16 and more preferentially C12-C18 alkyl chain;
    X is an organic cation, preferably an alkanolamine such as triethanolamine, or a mineral cation, preferably an alkali metal such as sodium or potassium, or alternatively ammonia; more preferably the anionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, or a mixture thereof.
  4. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, wherein the at least one anionic surfactant is present ranging from 1%to 15%by weight, preferably from 2%to 13%by weight, more preferably from 4%to 12%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  5. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 4, wherein the at least one amphoteric propionate surfactant is selected from aminopropionates, aminodipropionates, amphopropionates, amphodipropionates, or a mixture thereof; preferably selected from propionates of formula (A) :
    Ra-CO- (N (Z) CH2n- (CH2m-N+ (Rb) (CH2CH2COO-)  (A)
    in which:
    Ra represents a C7-C17 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid Ra-COOH;
    Rb represents a hydrogen group, or a C1-C4 alkyl group, optionally substituted by at least one group selected from–OH group, and/or-CH2CH2COO-group;
    m or n, respectively, is equal to 0, 1 or 2; and
    Z represents a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyethyl or carboxymethyl group; more preferably in the formula (A) ,
    Ra represents a C7-C17 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from hydrolysed coconut oil, preferably heptyl, nonyl, undecyl, or heptadecyl group;
    Rb represents a hydrogen group, amethyl group, or aβ-hydroxyethyl group;
    m or n, respectively, is equal to 0, or 1;
    Z represents a hydrogen group;
    even more preferably, the amphoteric propionate surfactant is selected from the group consisting of sodium lauroyl methylaminopropionate, sodium cocoamphopropionate, or a mixture thereof.
  6. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 5 comprising at least one additional amphoteric surfactant, which is different from the propionate surfactant, selected from betaines, sultaines, amphoacetates, and mixtures thereof; preferably selected from coco betaine, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, laurylhydroxy sulfobetaine, lauryldimethyl betaine, cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine, behenyl betaine, capryl/capramidopropyl betaine, lauryl hydroxysultaine, stearyl betaine, and mixtures thereof; more preferably cocamidopropyl betaine.
  7. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 6, wherein the at least one amphoteric surfactant (b) is present in an amount from 0.5%to 20%by weight, preferably from 1%to 15%by weight, and more preferably from 2%to 11%by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.
  8. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 7, wherein the sum of the at least one anionic surfactant a) and the at least one amphoteric surfactant b) ranges from 5%to 30%by weight, preferably from 10%to 20%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  9. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 8, wherein the cationic cyclopolymer is quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcellulose containing C8-C30 fatty chains, preferably is polyquaternium-67.
  10. Composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 9, wherein the cationic cyclopolymer is present in an amount ranging from 0.001%to 10%by weight, preferably from 0.01%to 5%by weight, and more preferably from 0.1%to 3%by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  11. A transparent aqueous cleansing composition comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:
    (a) from 4%to 12%by weight of at least one anionic surfactant selected from the group consisting of sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium myristoyl sarcosinate, sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, or a mixture thereof;
    (b) from 2%to 10%by weight of at least one amphoteric propionate surfactant of formula (A) :
    Ra-CO- (N (Z) CH2n- (CH2m-N+ (Rb) (CH2CH2COO-)  (A)
    in which:
    Ra represents a C7-C17 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from hydrolysed coconut oil, preferably heptyl, nonyl, undecyl, or heptadecyl group;
    Rb represents a hydrogen group, amethyl group, or aβ-hydroxyethyl group;
    m or n, respectively, is equal to 0, or 1;
    Z represents a hydrogen group; and
    (c) from 0.1%to 3%by weight of at least one quaternized alkylhydroxyethylcellulose containing C8-C30 fatty chains.
  12. Process for washing and/or conditioning keratin fibers, especially the hair, comprising the steps of applying to said fibers the composition of any one of the preceding claims 1 to 11.
PCT/CN2017/091162 2017-06-30 2017-06-30 Sulfate-free cleansing composition WO2019000407A1 (en)

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US11904035B2 (en) 2019-05-21 2024-02-20 Conopco, Inc. Lamellar liquid cleansers comprising acyl isethionate and methyl acyl taurate surfactant mixtures
WO2024132360A1 (en) 2022-12-22 2024-06-27 Unilever Ip Holdings B.V. Hydratable concentrate composition having surfactant and low or no palm kernel oil derived structurant

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EP2455063A1 (en) * 2010-11-18 2012-05-23 Dalli-Werke GmbH & Co. KG Personal cleansing composition comprising highly nourishing oils
US20150093348A1 (en) * 2013-09-30 2015-04-02 L'oreal Self-foaming cleansing system
WO2016101207A1 (en) * 2014-12-25 2016-06-30 L'oreal Washing and conditioning hair composition

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US20030171231A1 (en) * 2002-03-04 2003-09-11 Unilever Home And Personal Care Usa, Division Of Conopco, Inc. Ordered liquid crystalline cleansing composition with benefit agent particles
EP2455063A1 (en) * 2010-11-18 2012-05-23 Dalli-Werke GmbH & Co. KG Personal cleansing composition comprising highly nourishing oils
US20150093348A1 (en) * 2013-09-30 2015-04-02 L'oreal Self-foaming cleansing system
WO2016101207A1 (en) * 2014-12-25 2016-06-30 L'oreal Washing and conditioning hair composition

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US11904035B2 (en) 2019-05-21 2024-02-20 Conopco, Inc. Lamellar liquid cleansers comprising acyl isethionate and methyl acyl taurate surfactant mixtures
WO2024132360A1 (en) 2022-12-22 2024-06-27 Unilever Ip Holdings B.V. Hydratable concentrate composition having surfactant and low or no palm kernel oil derived structurant

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