WO2019000067A1

WO2019000067A1 - Skin tone-correcting cosmetic composition, use of a cosmetic composition and method for correcting the skin tone in an urban environment

Info

Publication number: WO2019000067A1
Application number: PCT/BR2018/050215
Authority: WO
Inventors: Patricia DONIZETI GERALDINI; Viviane POLDOUF QUEIJA
Original assignee: Natura Cosméticos S.A.
Priority date: 2017-06-30
Filing date: 2018-06-29
Publication date: 2019-01-03
Also published as: AR112262A1; BR102017014319A2

Abstract

The present invention relates to skin tone-correcting cosmetic compositions, comprising an antioxidant complex and conditioning agent(s), in the form of a skin tone-correcting cream (or "colour control cream" or "CC cream"), for use in an urban environment, which provides cell detoxification, cell oxygenation, antioxidant, antipollution and barrier-strengthening effects, particularly by acting on AhR, HIF-1α and LC3 mechanisms.

Description

"COSMETIC COMPOSITION OF SKIN TISSUE CORRECTION, USE OF A COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND METHOD OF CORRECTION OF SKIN TISSUE IN THE URBAN ENVIRONMENT".

Field of the Invention

The present invention relates to cosmetic skin tone correction compositions comprising an antioxidant complex and conditioning agent (s), in the form of a Color Control Cream (or "Color Control Cream" CC Cream "), with an urban approach, which provides effects of cellular detoxification, cellular oxygenation, antioxidant, anti-pollution, anti-stress and barrier fortification, particularly through the mechanisms of AhR, HIF-1a and LC3.

Fundamentals of the invention

Cosmetic compositions have been widely researched and assembled a number of products with diverse and specific purposes within the beautification process.

In a more modern approach of this follow-up, multifunctional products have been developed which are in the form of creams and are capable of promoting various cosmetic effects.

[004] Specifically, "Color Control Cream" or "CC Cream" are multifunctional products, aimed at neutralizing possible imperfections related to skin tone, such as pallor, redness, opacity and well-being. as providing additional benefits such as hydration and sun protection. In general, they are able to replace the traditional primer and base, and can even be used alone in a makeup and care process.

[005] The environment and our lifestyle influence our health and also the quality of our skin. Throughout the day our skin is exposed to several types of aggressive agent, with the pollution of urban environments, which unbalance the skin and accelerate aging. [006] Aging, chronological or intrinsic, is a physiological wear that is occurring in our body over the years in a natural way. However, the skin is subject to the process of premature aging induced by environmental factors, which is termed extrinsic aging and can be distinguished from chronological aging by signs characteristic of each type of aging.

[007] Recent studies have further increased knowledge about molecular mechanisms of how environmental factors may contribute to the extrinsic aging of skin.

Exposure to environmental factors, including air pollution, smoking, and ultraviolet radiation are responsible for four skin conditions that leave it in a stress condition and lack of radiance:

- Damage receptors (AhR) are activated and begin the process of breaking collagen and elastin fibers, favoring the loss of elasticity and firmness of the skin, as well as skin pigmentation disorders.

- The deficiency of the oxygen supply to the cells leaves the skin looking opaque and without air.

- Reducing the quality of the skin barrier, by oxidizing essential components and drying the skin, reduces the natural defense, leaving the skin opaque, rough and lifeless.

- Generation of free radicals, which cause loss of functionality of skin components, oxidizing proteins, lipids and DNA bases of the skin.

[009] These major imbalances, caused by external aggressions, which accelerate the aging process and leave the skin stressed, are particularly present in urban environments.

Therefore, there is a need for multifunctional cosmetic compositions, particularly directed to the urban environment, which inhibitors in skin tone correction and also promote complementary benefits.

Brief description of the figures

Figure 1 shows the in vitro efficacy in the AhR marker, where ^* : significant result according to Student t test / non-polluted / polluted control (P <0.05).

Figure 2 shows the in vitro efficacy in the synthesis of LC3, where ^* : significant result according to Student's t test / normal cells / "autophagy-induced" control (P <0.05).

Figure 3 shows the in vitro efficacy in the induction of HIF-1a, where ^* : significant result according to Student's t test / normal / control / aged fibroblasts (P <0.05).

Figure 4 shows the means of variation in the transepimeral loss of skin water obtained at the beginning of the study and after 14 and 28 days of use of the investigational product in relation to the control (Mean ± SD, n = 26), wherein the first column shows the control results and the second column the results of the present invention.

Figure 5 shows the result of the image analysis based on photographs, evaluated in 20 volunteers, to verify the uniformity of skin tone and reduction of periorbital hyperpigmentation after 15 minutes of application of the product (immediate disguise).

Description of the invention

The present invention relates to cosmetic skin tone correction compositions comprising an antioxidant complex and conditioning agent (s), in the form of a Color Control Cream (or "Color Control Cream" CC cream "), with an urban approach, which provides effects of cell detoxification, cellular oxygenation, antioxidant, anti-pollution, anti-stress and barrier fortification, particularly through the mechanisms of AhR, HIF-1a and LC3. The antioxidant complex is particularly comprised of tocopheryl acetate, Theobroma Cacao extract and Camellia Sinesis extract.

The conditioning agent (s) are (are) selected, in particular from Candida Saitoana hydrolyzed extract, hydrolyzed rice protein and / or Tropaeolum Majus extract or combination thereof.

Surprisingly with respect to compositions of the prior art, the combination of ingredients developed offers anti-pollution and skin anti-stress efficacy through the activation of skin receptors causing damage by environmental factors. As a result, these compositions act in the skin promoting the cleaning, oxygenation, daily defense against the generation of free radicals and removing the impurities resulting from the daily aggressions, forming a barrier that protects the skin from the damages caused by the aggressions of the environment. It is observed a detox / purification action of the skin, as well as fortification, which increases its resistance.

In addition, the compositions according to the present invention are intended to achieve a perfect-looking skin, by removing the natural tone of the skin, leaving the tired, greyish and stained appearance to give rise to radiant skin and naturally perfect. This benefit is achieved by the use of reflective particles and pigments that uniform the skin tone, correcting imperfections, ensuring complete correction. The result is healthy, naturally radiant skin.

In addition, simultaneously, in addition to protection against damage caused by daily aggressions (such as solar radiation, pollution, lack of oxygen, nutrients and water, which accelerate aging and lack of radiance of the skin) and tone correction of the skin, the application of the compositions according to the present invention provides immediate and 24 hour hydration and protection against UVB / UVA rays. In addition to bringing the innovative texture of ultralight facial oil suitable for the skin, the developed cosmetic form, through a lipidization process, enhances the sensory properties, leaving the skin immediately soft and velvety.

Thus, the present invention relates to the novel cosmetic skin tone correction composition comprising:

a) from about 0.001% to about 2% by weight, particularly about 0.3% by weight of antioxidant complex consisting of tocopheryl acetate, Theobroma Cacao extract and Camellia Sinesis extract;

b) about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of conditioning agent selected from Candida Saitoana hydrolyzed extract, hydrolyzed rice protein and / or Tropaeolum Majus extract, or a combination thereof, particularly about 0.1% a about 5% hydrolyzed extract of Candida Saitoana, about 0.1% to about 5% hydrolyzed rice protein and about 0.1% to about 10% Tropaeolum Majus extract, more particularly about 2% % hydrolyzed extract of Candida Saitoana, about 1.5% of hydrolyzed rice protein and about 3% of Tropaeolum Majus extract; and c) cosmetically acceptable excipients.

In addition, the compositions according to the present invention comprise from about 0.1% to about 5% reflecting particles and pigments, for example, sensory modifying particles and optical diffusers selected from polymethylsilsesquioxane, silica and / or boron nitride and / or about 0.1% to about 5% selected pearlescent particles of titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxide and / or tin oxide and / or about 0.1% to about 10% of sunscreen selected from ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate, diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, titanium dioxide and / or silica.

Cosmetically acceptable excipients (c) include, without limitation, those known in the art, e.g. emulsifiers, fragrances, pH adjusters, antioxidants of the formulation, chelating agents and / or preservatives.

Preferably, but not limiting, cosmetically acceptable excipients comprise triacontanyl polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP), isoamyl cocoate, dimethicone, caprylyl methacone, dicaprylyl carbonate, murumuru butter, polyglyceryl-10 pentastearate / behenyl alcohol / sodium stearoyl lactylate, glyceryl stearate / PEG-100 stearate, tribehenin / glyceryl behenate / dibehenate, CI77491 / red iron oxide, CI77492 / yellow iron oxide, CI77499 / black iron oxide, CI77891 / titanium dioxide, xanthan gum, triglyceride (VP) copolymer / trilau-reth-4 phosphate / polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, glycerol, triethanolamine, BHT, disodium EDTA, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof.

In a second embodiment, the present invention contemplates the use of the cosmetic composition in the manufacture of a skin tone correction cream for performance in the AhR, HIF-1a and LC3 mechanisms, as well as in the manufacture of a correction cream of skin tone with simultaneous effects of cellular detoxification, cellular oxygenation, antioxidant, antipollution and skin barrier fortification, urban approach.

In another embodiment, the present invention contemplates an urban skin tone correction method which comprises applying to the skin a cosmetic composition in accordance with the present invention.

The following examples, without any limitation, illustrate the compositions according to the present invention, as well as their effects described herein.

Examples Example 1. Composition according to the present invention - preferred embodiment

The following table illustrates the compositions according to the present invention.

Table 1. Cosmetic compositions of matte effect makeup

Example 2. In vitro efficacy in the markers

The effectiveness in markers was tested in vitro:

A - "Aryl-hydrocarbon Receptor" (AhR) concerning the anti-pollution effect; B - HIF1 -a relative to the oxygenation effect;

C - Detoxification LC3 protein.

A - The ability to limit AhR activation after exposure of human keratinocytes to environmental pollutants whose source is cigarette smoke and 0.25 μΜ vehicle emissions (benzo [a] pyrene (BaP)) has been determined.

The test was performed by Western blotting.

The results are shown in figure 1, where nuclear translocation is observed at the significant Ah receptor (80%), i.e., the composition according to the present invention significantly reduces Ah receptor activation. The effect of the composition according to the present invention on the synthesis of LC3-II protein (light chain 3-11), a specific autophagosomal marker, was evaluated.

"Autophagy induced" keratinocytes model: cells in which autophagy was initiated by a moderate dose of H202 (250 μΜ - 3 hours).

[0037] Immunocytology visualization method in HaCat keratinocytes.

The results are shown in figure 2.

The present invention significantly acted on the synthesis of LC3, a specific marker of autophagosomes, in 38%.

The autophagic activity of the initially titrated cells was increased by moderate dose of H202.

In normal and aged human fibroblasts, the effect of the present invention was evaluated on the induction of HIF-1a, a hypoxia-induced factor and a key to regulate the cellular response of the lack of oxygen.

[0042] Cell model under conditions of hypoxia induced by 50 μΜ cobalt (Co).

[0043] Cells: normal human fibroblasts, aged human fibroblasts obtained by successive transfers.

Method: Western blot.

The results are shown in figure 3.

Under conditions of hypoxia, the induction of HIF-1a is significantly reduced by 44% in aged human fibroblasts compared to normal human fibroblasts.

The present invention significantly restored the induction of HIF-1 to aged fibroblasts by 63% compared to normal human fibroblasts.

Example 3. Hydration

[0048] This benefit was evaluated by means of a noninvasive objective methodology called corneometry, which evaluates the amount of water added to the surface of the skin with the use of the product through the evaluation of the electrical conductivity of the skin surface. In this evaluation, measurements were made before application of the product to obtain information about the initial state of the skin, and after 15 minutes, 2 hours, 4 hours, 8 hours, and 24 hours of application of the product to identify the improvement of hydration product provides the skin, both immediately after use, and throughout the day. The applications are made in the region of the forearm, which are regions that present smaller interferences of external factors and are more protected of the solar expositions.

As a result, it is recognized that the composition of the present invention showed moisturizing performance within 24 hours after application thereof.

Example 4. Barrier Fortification

[0050] This benefit was evaluated by means of a non-invasive objective methodology called TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss), which indicates the integrity of the cutaneous barrier by means of transdermal water loss measurements, which translates into one of the primordial functions of the barrier that is , in addition to preventing the entry of microorganisms, chemical substances and various forms of radiation, prevent the loss of water and nutrients of the body while maintaining impermeability of the skin, essential for the proper functioning of the body. In this evaluation, measurements were taken before the application of the product, to obtain information about the initial state of the skin, and after 14 and 28 days of home use.

The applications were made in the forearm region, which are regions that have less interference from external factors and are more protected from solar exposures. Significantly positive effects of barrier fortification were obtained at all evaluated times.

The percentage of barrier fortification afforded by the product of the invention when compared to the initial state of the skin (an- and the percentage of volunteers in which this effect was observed in 28 days of use is as follows:

-% improvement: 13.5

-% of volunteers who showed improvement: 76.9

Figure 4 shows the means of variation in the transepimeral loss of skin water obtained at the beginning of the study and after 14 and 28 days of use of the investigational product in relation to the control (Mean ± SD, n = 26) .

According to the results obtained, the investigational product, applied on the skin of the volar forearm, gave a significant effect of fortification of the skin barrier after 28 days of home use, when compared to the control (skin without application of any products ). The percentage value obtained from fortification of the skin barrier was 13.5% after 28 days of home use, in relation to the initial skin condition and control. 76.9% of the research participants presented fortification of the cutaneous barrier after home use of the research product.

Example 5. Skin Tone

[0055] This benefit was evaluated through a methodology for assessing the homogeneity of skin color in facial (imantar and mental) regions and reduction of periorbital hyperpigmentation, based on the method of image analysis based on photographs of the regions of interest. In this test, 20 volunteers were evaluated, with uniformity of skin tone and reduction of periorbital hyperpigmentation after 15 minutes of application (immediate disguise) - according to figure 5.

Example 6. Perceived Effectiveness

[0056] This benefit was assessed by a clinical / subjective methodology in which the desired parameters are evaluated by volunteers who state their opinion on whether or not their skin condition is improved. In this study, assessments were made before application of the product, to have information about the initial state of the skin, and after 15 minutes, 4 and 8 hours of use of the product.

[0057] The following table shows the results, which shows the percentage of participants who experienced improvement.

Table 2. Perceived efficacy of the product according to the present invention

Questions T15 min T4 hours T8 hours

Question 1. In relation to the homogeneous cover

Question 2. Regarding the natural occurrence

Question 3. Regarding hydration 93.3 90.0 tion (softness and softness)

Question 4. In relation to the uniform 90,0 91, 7 90,0 midade

Question 5. Healthy appearance 88.3 90.0 90.0

Question 6. Regarding lumino86.7 88.3 88.3 sity and radiance

Question 7. Regarding the improvement 86.7 86.7 88.3 of the texture

Question 8. Regarding the aspect86,7 86,7 85,0 to matte

Question 9. Regarding skin 81, 83.3 83.3 stained, with natural flushing

Question 10. In relation to the velvety skin 80.0 81, 7 81, 7, with a

peach

Question 1 1. In relation to the dis78,3 80,0 80,0 farce of imperfections

Question 12. Regarding the reduction78.3 78.3 80.0 tion of the apparent pores Question 13. In relation to the reduction73.3 78.3 76.7 tion of fine lines

Question 14. Regarding dis65.0 71, 7 75.0 farce of wrinkles

The man skilled in the art will readily appreciate, by the teachings contained in the text and in the examples presented, advantages of the invention and propose variations and equivalent alternatives of attainment without departing from the scope of the invention as defined in the appended claims.

Claims

1 . COSMETIC COMPOSITION OF SKIN TISSUE CORRECTION characterized in that it comprises:

a) antioxidant complex consisting of tocopheryl acetate, extract of Theobroma Cacao and extract of Camellia Sinesis;

b) conditioning agent selected from Candida Saitoana hydrolyzed extract, hydrolyzed rice protein and / or Tropaeolum Majus extract or combination thereof;

c) cosmetically acceptable excipients.

A composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises from about 0.001% to about 2% by weight of antioxidant complex.

A composition according to claim 2, characterized in that it comprises about 0.3% by weight of anti-oxidant complex.

A composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of conditioning agent.

The composition according to claim 4, characterized in that it comprises from about 0.1% to about 5% hydrolyzed extract of Candida Saitoana, from about 0.1% to about 5% protein of hydrolyzed rice and about 0.1% to about 10% of Tropaeolum Majus extract.

A composition according to claim 5, characterized in that it comprises about 2% hydrolysed extract of

Candida Saitoana, about 1.5% hydrolyzed rice protein and about 3% Tropaeolum Majus extract.

A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it additionally comprises from about 0.1% to about 5% of sensorial modifying particles and optical diffusers selected from polymethylsilsesquioxane, silica and / or nitride of boron.

A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it additionally comprises from about 0.1% to about 5% of pearlescent particles selected from titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxide and / or tin oxide.

A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it additionally comprises from about 0.1% to about 10% of the sunscreen selected from ethylhexylmethoxycinnamate, diethylaminohydroxybenzoylhexyl benzoate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, titanium dioxide and / or silica.

Use of a COSMETIC COMPOSITION as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it is in the manufacture of a skin tone correction cream for performance in the AhR, HIF-1α and LC3 mechanisms.

1 1. The use according to claim 10, characterized in that it is in the manufacture of a skin tone correction cream with simultaneous effects of cellular detoxification, cellular oxygenation, antioxidant, anti-pollution and skin barrier fortification.

A use according to claim 11, characterized in that it is in the manufacture of a skin tone correction cream in an urban environment.

A method of correcting skin tone in an urban environment characterized in that it comprises applying to the skin a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9.