BR102017014319A2 - skin tone correction cosmetic composition, use of a cosmetic composition and method of skin tone correction in an urban environment - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition of skin tone correction, use of a cosmetic composition and method of skin tone correction in urban environment. The present invention relates to skin tone correction cosmetic compositions comprising an antioxidant complex and conditioning agent (s) in the form of a skin tone correction cream (or "color control cream" or "cc cream"). ), with an urban approach, which provides effects of cell detoxification, cell oxygenation, antioxidant, antipollution and barrier fortification, particularly by acting on the mechanisms of ahr, hif-1a and lc3.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION OF SKIN TONE CORRECTION, USE OF A COSMETIC COMPOSITION AND METHOD OF SKIN TONE CORRECTION IN URBAN ENVIRONMENT. Field of the invention [001] The present invention deals with cosmetic skin tone correction compositions comprising an antioxidant complex and conditioning agent (s), in the form of a skin tone correction cream (or Color Control Cream or CC Cream), with an urban approach, which provides effects of cell detoxification, cell oxygenation, antioxidants, anti-pollution, anti-stress and barrier fortification, particularly by acting on the mechanisms of AhR, HIF-1a and LC3.

Basics of the invention [002] Cosmetic compositions have been extensively researched and bring together a number of products with diverse and specific purposes within the beautification process.

[003] In a more modern approach to this segment, multifunctional products have been developed, which come in the form of creams and are capable of promoting various cosmetic effects.

[004] Specifically, skin tone correction creams (in English Color Control Cream or CC Cream) are multifunctional products, aimed at neutralizing possible imperfections related to skin tone, such as pallor, redness, opacity, as well as providing additional benefits , such as hydration and sun protection. In general, they are able to replace the traditional primer and foundation, and can even be used alone in a process of makeup and care.

[005] The environment and our lifestyle influence our health and also the quality of our skin. Throughout the day our skin is exposed to several types of aggressive agents, with pollution 870170045766, of 06/30/2017, p. 5/33

2/13 own urban environments, which unbalance the skin and accelerate aging.

[006] Aging, chronological or intrinsic, is a physiological wear and tear that occurs in our body over the years in a natural way. However, the skin is subject to the premature aging process induced by environmental factors, which is called extrinsic aging and can be distinguished from chronological aging by characteristic signs of each type of aging.

[007] Recent studies have also increased the knowledge about molecular mechanisms of how environmental factors can contribute to extrinsic skin aging.

[008] Exposure to environmental factors, including air pollution, smoking and ultraviolet radiation are responsible for four macrodanes in the skin, which leave it in a condition of stress and lack of radiance:

- Damage-causing receptors (AhR) are activated and start the process of breaking down collagen and elastin fibers, favoring the loss of skin elasticity and firmness, in addition to skin pigmentation disorders.

- The lack of oxygen supply to the cells leaves the skin with opaque appearance and without luster.

- The reduction of the quality of the skin barrier, by the oxidation of essential components and dryness of the skin, reduces the natural defense, leaving the skin opaque, rough and lifeless.

- Generation of free radicals, which cause the loss of functionality of skin components, oxidizing proteins, lipids and DNA bases of the skin.

[009] These main imbalances, caused by external aggressions, which accelerate the aging process and leave pe

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3/13 and stressed, are particularly present in urban environments. [0010] Therefore, there is a need for multifunctional cosmetic compositions, particularly aimed at the urban environment, which are efficient in correcting skin tone and also promote complementary benefits.

Brief description of the figures [0011] Figure 1 shows the in vitro efficacy in the AhR marker, where *: significant result according to Student's t test / pollution-free / polluted control (P <0.05).

[0012] Figure 2 shows the in vitro efficacy in the synthesis of LC3, where *: significant result according to Student's t test / normal cells / induced autophagy control (P <0.05).

[0013] Figure 3 shows the in vitro efficacy in the induction of HIF1a, where *: significant result according to Student's t test / normal fibroblasts - control / aged (P <0.05).

[0014] Figure 4 shows the means of the variation in transepidermal loss of water from the skin obtained at the beginning of the study and after 14 and 28 days of using the investigational product, in relation to the control (Mean ± SD, n = 26), where the first column presents the results of the control and the second column the results of the present invention.

[0015] Figure 5 shows the result of the analysis of images based on photographs, evaluated in 20 volunteers, to verify the uniformity of the skin tone and reduction of periorbital hyperpigmentation after 15 minutes of application of the product (immediate disguise).

Description of the invention [0016] The present invention deals with cosmetic skin tone correction compositions comprising an antioxidant complex and conditioning agent (s), in the form of a skin tone correction cream (or Color Control Cream or CC cream), with an approach

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4/13 urban, which provides effects of cell detoxification, cell oxygenation, antioxidant, anti-pollution, anti-stress and barrier fortification, particularly by acting on the mechanisms of AhR, HIF-1a and LC3.

[0017] The antioxidant complex is particularly made up of tocopheryl acetate, Theobroma Cacao extract and Camellia Sinesis extract.

[0018] The conditioning agent (s) is (are) selected (s) particularly from hydrolyzed extract of Candida Saitoana, hydrolyzed rice protein and / or extract from Tropaeolum Majus or combination thereof.

[0019] Surprisingly in relation to the state of the art compositions, the combination of ingredients developed offers anti-pollution and anti-stress effectiveness of the skin through the activation of skin receptors that cause damage by environmental factors. As a result, these compositions act on the skin promoting cleansing, oxygenation, daily defense against the generation of free radicals and removing impurities resulting from daily aggressions, forming a barrier that protects the skin from damage caused by environmental aggressions. There is an action of detoxification / purification of the skin, as well as strengthening, which increases its resistance.

[0020] In addition, the compositions according to the present invention are intended to achieve a perfect-looking skin, awakening the natural tone of the skin, leaving the tired, gray and stained appearance giving way to a radiant and naturally perfect skin . This benefit is achieved by using reflective particles and pigments that evens out skin tone, correcting imperfections, ensuring complete correction. The result is healthy, naturally radiant skin.

[0021] Additionally, simultaneously, in addition to protection

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5/13 against the damages caused by daily aggressions (such as solar radiation, pollution, lack of oxygen, nutrients and water, which accelerate the aging and lack of radiance of the skin) and correction of the skin tone, the application of the compositions according with the present invention provides immediate and 24-hour hydration and protection against UVB / UVA rays.

[0022] In addition to bringing the innovative texture of ultralight facial oil suitable for the skin, the developed cosmetic form, through a lipidization process, improves the sensory properties, leaving the skin immediately soft and velvety.

[0023] Thus, the present invention relates to the new skin tone correction cosmetic composition comprising:

a) about 0.001% to about 2% by weight, particularly about 0.3% by weight of an antioxidant complex consisting of tocopheryl acetate, Theobroma Cacao extract and Camellia Sinesis extract;

b) about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of conditioning agent selected from hydrolyzed extract of Candida Saitoana, hydrolyzed rice protein and / or extract from Tropaeolum Majus, or a combination thereof, particularly about 0.1% to about 5% Candida Saitoana hydrolyzed extract, about 0.1% to about 5% hydrolyzed rice protein and about 0.1% to about 10% Tropaeolum Majus extract, more particularly about 2 % of hydrolyzed extract of Candida Saitoana, about 1.5% of hydrolyzed rice protein and about 3% of extract of Tropaeolum Majus, and

c) cosmetically acceptable excipients.

[0024] In addition, the compositions according to the present invention comprise about 0.1% to about 5% of reflective particles and pigments, for example, sensory modifying particles and optical diffusers selected from polymethylsilsesquioxane, silica

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6/13 ca and / or boron nitride and / or about 0.1% to about 5% of pearlescent particles selected from titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxide and / or tin oxide and / or about 0 , 1% to about 10% of sunscreen selected from ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, titanium dioxide and / or silica.

[0025] Cosmetically acceptable excipients (c) include, without limitation, those known in the art, for example, film-forming, conditioning, emollients, colorants, viscosity / suspension agents, humectants, fragrances, pH adjusters, formulation antioxidants, chelating agents and / or preservatives.

[0026] Preferably, but not limiting, cosmetically acceptable excipients comprise triacontanil polyvinyl pyrrolidone (PVP), isoamyl cocoate, dimethicone, caprylyl methicone, tipprilyl carbonate, murumuru butter, polyglyceryl-10 pentaestearate / behenyl alcohol / sodium stearyl and stearyl alcohol. glyceryl stearate / PEG-100 stearate, tribehenin / glyceryl behenate / dibehenate, CI77491 / red iron oxide, CI77492 / yellow iron oxide, CI77499 / black iron oxide, CI77891 / titanium dioxide, xanthan gum, capricylate and caprylic acrylate; vinyl pyrrolidone (VP) copolymer / trilaureth-4 phosphate / polyglyceryl-2 sesquiisostearate, glycerin, triethanolamine, BHT, EDTA disodium, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, phenoxyethanol, or mixtures thereof.

[0027] In a second embodiment, the present invention contemplates the use of the cosmetic composition in the manufacture of a skin tone correction cream to act on the mechanisms of AhR, HIF1a and LC3, as well as in the manufacture of a tone correction cream skin with simultaneous effects of cell detoxification, cell oxygenation, antioxidant, anti-pollution and skin barrier fortification,

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7/13 urban approach.

[0028] In another embodiment, the present invention contemplates a method of correcting skin tone in an urban environment which comprises applying to the skin a cosmetic composition according to the present invention.

[0029] The following examples, without imposing any limitation, illustrate the compositions according to the present invention, as well as their effects described herein.

Examples

Example 1. Composition according to the present invention - preferred embodiment [0030] The following table illustrates the compositions according to the present invention.

Table 1. Cosmetic compositions of matte effect makeup

Ingredient % Water 46,038 Polymethylsilsesquioxane 1.5 Silica 2 Boron nitride 0.5 Titanium dioxide / Mica / iron oxide / tin oxide 1 Cl 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Mica, tin oxide 1 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.3 Theobroma Cacao seed extract 0.001 Camellia sinensis leaf extract 0.001 Hydrolyzed extract of Candida Saitoana 2 Hydrolyzed rice protein 1.5 Extract of leaves / flowers / stem of Tropaeolum Majus 3 Triacontanil PVP 1 Isoamil Cocoato 3 Dimethicone 2 Caprilil Meticona 1 Dicaprilil Carbonate 1 Crude murumuru butter 0.3

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Polyglyceryl-10 pentaestearate / behenyl alcohol / sodium stearoyl lactylate 2.5 Glyceryl stearate / PEG-100 stearate - Vegetable 1 tribehenin / glyceryl behenate / dibehenate 0.5 Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 5 diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 3 Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol 1.5 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine 2 Titanium dioxide / Silica 3 CI77491 / red iron oxide CI77492 / yellow iron oxide 7 CI77499 / black iron oxide CI77891 / Titanium dioxide Xanthan gum 0.25 Caprylic triglyceride / capric / Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer / trilaureth-4 phosphate / Polyglyceryl-2 sesqui-isostearate 0.6 Bidistilled Glycerin 5 Fragrance 0.25 Triethanolamine 0.06 B HT 0.05 Disodium EDTA 0.1 slodopropynyl butylcarbamate 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.95

Example 2. In vitro efficacy on markers [0031] The effectiveness on markers was tested in vitro:

A -Aryl-hydrocarbon Receiver (AhR) related to the anti-pollution effect;

B - HIF1-a related to the oxygenation effect;

C - LC3 protein related to detoxification.

[0032] A - The ability to limit AhR activation after exposure of human keratinocytes to environmental pollutants whose source is cigarette smoke and 0.25 μΜ of vehicle emissions (benzo [a] pyrene (BaP)) was determined.

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9/13 [0033] The test was performed by Western blot.

[0034] The results are shown in figure 1, where nuclear translocation at the significant Ah receptor is observed (80%), that is, the composition according to the present invention significantly reduces the activation of the Ah receptor.

[0035] B - The effect of the composition according to the present invention on the synthesis of LC3-II protein (light chain 3-II), a specific autophagosome marker, was evaluated.

[0036] Autophagy induced keratinocyte model: cells in which autophagy was initiated by a moderate dose of H2O2 (250 μΜ 3 hours).

[0037] Method of visualization by immunocytology in HaCat keratinocytes.

[0038] The results are shown in figure 2.

[0039] The present invention significantly acted in the synthesis of LC3, a specific autophagosome marker, in 38%.

[0040] The autophagic activity of the cells initially titrated by a moderate dose of H2O2 was increased.

[0041] C- It was evaluated, in normal and aged human fibroblasts, the effect of the present invention in the induction of HIF-1a, a factor induced by hypoxia and which regulates the cellular response to lack of oxygen.

[0042] Cell model in hypoxia conditions induced by 50 μΜ of cobalt (Co).

[0043] Cells: normal human fibroblasts, aged human fibroblasts obtained by successive transfers.

[0044] Method: Western blot.

[0045] The results are shown in figure 3.

[0046] In hypoxia conditions, HIF-1a induction is significantly reduced by 44% in aged human fibroblasts

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10/13 compared to normal human fibroblasts.

[0047] The present invention significantly restored the induction of HIF-1a of fibroblasts aged 63% compared to normal human fibroblasts.

Example 3. Hydration [0048] This benefit was assessed using a non-invasive objective methodology called corneometry, which assesses the amount of water added to the skin surface with the use of the product by assessing the electrical conductance of the skin surface. In this evaluation, measurements were taken before the application of the product, to have information about the initial state of the skin, and after 15 minutes, 2 hours, 4 hours, 8 hours, and 24 hours of the application of the product to identify the improvement of hydration that the product provides the skin, both immediately after use and throughout the day. The applications are made in the forearm region, which are regions that present less interference from external factors and are more protected from sun exposure.

[0049] As a result, it is recognized that the composition of the present invention presented hydrating performance within 24 hours after application.

Example 4. Fortification of Barrier [0050] This benefit was assessed using a non-invasive objective methodology called TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss), which indicates the integrity of the skin barrier through transdermal water loss measures, which translates to one of the primordial functions of the barrier which is, in addition to preventing the entry of microorganisms, chemicals and various forms of radiation, preventing the loss of water and nutrients from the organism while maintaining the impermeability of the skin, essential for the proper functioning of the organism. In this evaluation, measures were taken before the application of the product, to have

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11/13 training on the initial state of the skin, and after 14 and 28 days of home use.

[0051] The applications were made in the forearm region, which are regions that present less interference from external factors and are more protected from sun exposure. Significantly positive effects of barrier fortification were obtained at all times evaluated.

[0052] The percentage of barrier fortification offered by the product of the invention when compared to the initial state of the skin (before application of the same), as well as the percentage of volunteers in which this effect was observed in 28 days of use is as follows:

-% improvement: 13.5

-% of volunteers who showed improvement: 76.9 [0053] Figure 4 shows the means of variation in the transepidermal loss of skin water obtained at the beginning of the study and after 14 and 28 days of using the investigational product, in relation to the control (Mean ± SD, n = 26).

[0054] According to the results obtained, the investigational product, applied to the skin of the volar forearm, conferred a significant effect of skin barrier fortification after 28 days of home use, when compared to the control (skin without application of any products). The percentage value obtained from skin barrier fortification was 13.5% after 28 days of home use, in relation to the initial skin condition and control. 76.9% of the research participants presented fortification of the skin barrier after using the investigational product at home.

Example 5. Skin tone [0055] This benefit was assessed using a methodology to assess the homogeneity of skin color in facial regions (mantar, mentonian) and to reduce periorbital hyperpigmentation, based on

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12/13 of the image analysis method based on photographs of the regions of interest. In this test, 20 volunteers were evaluated, and the uniformity of the skin tone and the reduction of periorbital hyperpigmentation were recorded after 15 minutes of application of the product (immediate disguise) - as shown in figure 5.

Example 6. Perceived Effectiveness [0056] This benefit was assessed using a clinical / subjective methodology, in which the desired parameters are evaluated by the volunteers who state their opinion on whether or not their skin condition is improving. In this study, evaluations were made before applying the product, to have information about the initial state of the skin, and after 15 minutes, 4 and 8 hours of using the product.

[0057] The following table shows the results, where a percentage of participants who felt improvement is presented.

Table 2. Perceived effectiveness of the product according to the present invention

Questions T15 min T4 hours T8 hours Question 1. Regarding homogeneous coverage 98.3 - - Question 2. Regarding the natural finish 93.3 - - Question 3. Regarding hydration (softness and smoothness) 93.3 93.3 90.0 Question 4. Regarding uniformity 90.0 91.7 90.0 Question 5. Healthy appearance 88.3 90.0 90.0 Question 6. Regarding luminosity and radiance 86.7 88.3 88.3 Question 7. Regarding texture improvement 86.7 86.7 88.3 Question 8. Regarding the matte aspect 86.7 86.7 85.0 Question 9. Regarding colored skin, with natural flushing 81.7 83.3 83.3

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Question 10. Regarding velvety skin, with a peach sensation 80.0 81.7 81.7 Question 11. Concerning the disguise of imperfections 78.3 80.0 80.0 Question 12. Regarding the reduction of apparent pores 78.3 78.3 80.0 Question 13. Regarding the reduction of fine lines 73.3 78.3 76.7 Question 14. Regarding the disguise of wrinkles 65.0 71.7 75.0 [0058] The man of the sa technique berá promptly evaluate, through

from the teachings contained in the text and in the examples presented, advantages of the invention and to propose variations and equivalent alternatives of realization, without departing from the scope of the invention, as defined in the attached claims.

Claims (13)

1. COSMETIC COMPOSITION OF SKIN TONE CORRECTION characterized by the fact that it comprises: a) antioxidant complex consisting of tocopheryl acetate, Theobroma Cacao extract and Camellia Slnesls extract; b) conditioning agent selected from hydrolyzed extract of Candida Saitoana, hydrolyzed rice protein and / or extract from Tropaeolum Majus or a combination thereof; c) cosmetically acceptable excipients. 2. COMPOSITION, according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that it comprises about 0.001% to about 2% by weight of antioxidant complex. 3. COMPOSITION, according to claim 2, characterized by the fact that it comprises about 0.3% by weight of antioxidant complex. 4. COMPOSITION, according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that it comprises about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of conditioning agent. 5. COMPOSITION, according to claim 4, characterized by the fact that it comprises about 0.1% to about 5% of the hydrolyzed extract of Candida Saitoana, about 0.1% to about 5% of rice protein hydrolyzed and about 0.1% to about 10% Tropaeolum Majus extract. 6. COMPOSITION, according to claim 5, characterized by the fact that it comprises about 2% of hydrolyzed extract of Candida Saitoana, about 1.5% of hydrolyzed rice protein and about 3% of extract of Tropaeolum Majus. 7. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized by the fact that it additionally comprises about 0.1% to about 5% of particles modifying Petition 870170045766, of 06/30/2017, p. 18/33 2/2 sensory and optical diffusers selected from polymethylsilsesquioxane, silica and / or boron nitride. 8. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized by the fact that it additionally comprises about 0.1% to about 5% of pearlescent particles selected from titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxide and / or tin oxide. 9. COMPOSITION according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it additionally comprises about 0.1% to about 10% of sunscreen selected from ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutylphenol, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, titanium dioxide and / or silica. 10. USE OF A COSMETIC COMPOSITION, as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized by the fact that it is in the manufacture of a skin tone correction cream to act on the mechanisms of AhR, HIF-1a and LC3. 11. USE, according to claim 10, characterized by the fact that it is in the manufacture of a skin tone correction cream with simultaneous effects of cell detoxification, cell oxygenation, antioxidant, anti-pollution and skin barrier fortification. 12. USE, according to claim 11, characterized by the fact that it is in the manufacture of a skin tone correction cream in an urban environment. 13. SKIN TONE CORRECTION METHOD IN URBAN ENVIRONMENT characterized by the fact that it comprises applying to the skin a cosmetic composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 9.