BR102012000372B1 - aqueous sunscreen cosmetic composition and use thereof, cosmetic method for applying said sunscreen, cosmetic method for preventing and controlling skin greasiness, cosmetic method for protecting the skin from damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, and cosmetic product - Google Patents

Abstract

aqueous sunscreen cosmetic composition and use thereof, cosmetic method for application of said composition, cosmetic method for preventing and controlling skin oils, cosmetic method for protecting the skin from damage caused by ultraviolet radiation, and cosmetic product. The present invention relates to an aqueous cosmetic sunscreen composition comprising at least one emulsifying agent, at least one water soluble sunscreen agent and at least one liposoluble sunscreen agent, wherein said composition is in serum and It is free of oil-absorbing particles or has up to 7% by weight of such particles. Also described in the present application is a method for applying said composition, a method for preventing and controlling skin oils, and a method for protecting the skin from damage caused by ultraviolet radiation. finally, it is also the scope of the present application to use the disclosed composition to prepare a sunscreen as well as a product comprising said composition.

Description

Invention Patent Descriptive Report for Aqueous COSMETIC COMPOSITION OF SUN PROTECTOR AND USE OF THE SAME, COSMETIC METHOD FOR THE APPLICATION OF THE REFERRED COMPOSITION, COSMETIC METHOD TO PREVENT AND CONTROL THE SKIN OIL, METHOD OF EARTHY COSMETIC COSMETICS. AND COSMETIC PRODUCT.

[001] The present invention relates to an aqueous cosmetic composition of sunscreen in the form of a serum, free of oil-absorbing particles or endowed with these particles by up to 7% by weight, as well as a cosmetic method for applying said composition cosmetic revealed.

[002] The present invention also relates to a cosmetic method to prevent and control the oiliness of the skin, and also to a cosmetic method to protect the skin from damage caused by ultraviolet radiation.

[003] Finally, the present invention relates to the use of said cosmetic composition for the preparation of a sunscreen and to a cosmetic product comprising said cosmetic composition. Description of the state of the art [004] Cosmetic products with protection against ultraviolet (UV) radiation, also known as sunscreens or protectors, are commonly marketed in the form of gel, cream, emulsion or spray, and are intended to protect the skin of an individual from the rays irradiated by the sun. Such a preventive measure is necessary since the prolonged exposure to sunlight, directly or indirectly, is capable of causing not only tanning of the skin, but also photoaging, photoallergy and sunburn. In addition, radiation can cause delayed reactions due to its cumulative effect on the body.

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2/27 [005] Ultraviolet radiation comprises all radiation with a wavelength less than 400 nanometers (nm). The ultraviolet spectrum is subdivided into type A UV rays (UVA) with wavelengths between 320nm and 400nm, type B UV rays (UVB) with wavelengths between 280nm and 320nm, and type C UV rays (UVC) with wavelength between 200nm and 280nm.

[006] Regarding the incidence of ultraviolet radiation in the atmosphere, the ozone layer absorbs practically the entire UVC spectrum, as well as absorbs and attenuates part of the UVB spectrum. The UVA spectrum, in turn, is not absorbed by the ozone layer and is, therefore, the ultraviolet radiation that most comes into contact with individuals.

[007] UVA rays are related to tanning and are the main responsible for photoaging, changing the elastic and collagen fibers, causing wrinkles, loss of elasticity and spots. It has an important participation in photoallergies and also predisposes the skin to the appearance of cancer. UVB rays, in turn, although with less incidence, are also harmful to an individual's skin, since they can cause sunburn.

[008] It is worth remembering that exposure to UVA and UVB radiation can occur both in open places, such as the beach, pool and countryside, as well as during outdoor sports and daily activities. Surfaces such as sand, snow and water can reflect sunlight much more and cause skin burns.

[009] In this context, it is recommended to apply a suitable sunscreen early in the morning, even on cloudy or overcast days. Additionally, when using makeup, it is recommended to apply the sunscreen and wait until the skin absorbs the product before applying makeup.

[010] In view of the studies and research developed so far, it is widely reported that solar radiation can

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3/27 influence and accelerate the aging of an individual's skin, and should therefore be combated with preventive measures. Photo-aged skin presents loss of elasticity, wrinkles, dark or light spots and skin changes, which can become rough and scaly, unlike skin aged due to the natural deterioration of the organism, which, in turn, presents a thinner, flabby appearance , with little elasticity and fine wrinkles; however, without spots or changes on its surface.

[011] The daily use of sunscreen is therefore highly recommended for all skin types in order to create a barrier against ultraviolet radiation. UVB rays, related to sunburn and skin cancer, are quantified by the sun protection factor (SPF) present in the sunscreen. UVA rays, which are responsible for photoaging, wrinkles and blemishes, present some quantification methods (PPD Persistent Pigment Darkening) and COLIPA (The European Cosmetics Association) is the official methodology for Europe and also for Mercosur member countries.

[012] While UVA rays fall on an individual's skin without burning or making the skin red, UVB rays act in a totally opposite way. So, to avoid the redness in the skin that is characteristic of sunburn, the SPF present in the sunscreens indicates the time that an individual can be exposed to UVB rays without the inconveniences of having red and burning skin.

[013] The dose of sunscreen to be applied differs from individual to individual, depending greatly on a genetic predisposition and ethnic origin. If an individual tolerates a maximum of ten minutes of exposure to the sun, when using a sunscreen with SPF 15 that same individual must be able to tolerate up to 150 minutes of sunlight without their skin developing a redness reaction, since the SPF 15

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4/27 increases the exposure time by fifteen times. In this case, after 150 minutes the exposure time will be exceeded and the redness will occur.

[014] A sunscreen with an SPF of 2 to 11 provides minimal protection against ultraviolet rays, 12 to 29 provides moderate protection, and 30 upwards provides high protection.

[015] There are several brands of companies on the market that develop sunscreens with a different aesthetic appeal, suggesting effects that combine beauty and health, thus investing in the visual impression that generally corresponds to the main evaluation of the consumer when purchasing the product.

[016] However, what a consumer really expects is that the purchased sunscreen has effective protection against UVA and UVB rays, which contains a light texture, which spreads easily, which has both rapid absorption and antioxidant action that helps in prevention of skin aging, which does not irritate the skin, which forms an invisible layer on the skin after application, and, above all, which does not just leave the skin oily, so that the skin does not look shiny.

[017] Cosmetic sunscreen compositions often include one or more organic agents to provide broad protection against UVA and UVB radiation. However, high concentrations of organic agents cause irritation and burning sensation in some individuals using high SPF sunscreens. In addition, excess organic agents are responsible for the unwanted feeling of oiliness on the skin.

[018] In addition, it is known that in the summer the skin of the face tends to become more oily, since the sun can increase sebum production and cause the pores to become clogged. The use of a sunscreen with a high oily load can increase the lipid content on the surface

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5/27 of the skin and consequently increase the appearance of acne.

[019] An attempt to reduce the oiliness of the sunscreen was made by preparing a cosmetic composition for sunscreen with alcohol-based organic agents. It has been found that such formulations can provide a reduced feeling of oily skin. On the other hand, compositions containing alcohol in the formulation have considerable disadvantages, such as dehydration of the skin. [020] Research in this direction has been carried out by several personal care companies and tests with consumers are intensified worldwide in order to try to find a combination of ingredients that lead to a cosmetic composition with effective properties, combined with reduced undesirable perceptions in filters solar.

[021] US patent document 2009/0208443 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising a starch, a cationic copolymer having a monomeric unit which is the tri (C1 -C3 alkyl) ammonium acryloyl salt, and a cosmetically acceptable carrier. The compositions are used to give shine with a focus effect on the skin. More preferred that the cationic copolymer is acrylamide / trimethylammonium chloride acrylylethyl / tris (hydroxymethyl) copolymer of acrylamide methane.

[022] US patent document 2010/0028393 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising a continuous aqueous phase, a first dispersed and non-aqueous phase comprising hydrophobic dye, and a second dispersed and non-aqueous phase being substantially free of hydrophobic dye, as well as a method for the preparation of this composition and its use.

[023] US patent document 5,932,194 discloses a topically applicable cosmetic / dermatological composition suitable for photoprotection and improvement of human keratinous substrates, for example

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6/27 example, human skin and / or hair, comprising (a) an aqueous phase, (b) at least one oil phase with a refractive index n1, (c) an effective amount of UV-protection of at least one active agent water-soluble UV filter and (d) particles of at least one non-film-forming polymer having a refractive index n2, and refractive indices n1, and n2 being selected such that: | n2-n1 | <0.07. [024] There are also sunscreens on the market known as physical filters because they have titanium dioxide that leaves a thicker layer of product, whitish in color, on the skin. In a similar way, chemical filters absorb ultraviolet rays before they penetrate the skin, being more resistant to water.

[025] In view of what is known in the market, the concern of companies in the segment in search of a cosmetic composition for sunscreen that combines functional ingredients for protection against ultraviolet radiation for a long time and, in parallel, that presents a satisfactory tactile perception.

[026] There is, therefore, a gap in the state of the art that identifies a deficiency in the cosmetic composition of sunscreens, since what can be found today translates into products in the form of gel, cream, emulsion or spray with isolated characteristics. . In other words, either the sunscreen offers good protection against ultraviolet rays and has deficiencies in the oil-regulating action, or vice versa, or the sunscreen is capable of protecting from solar radiation and controlling skin oiliness, but it does not have an adequate texture and, therefore, brings disadvantages such as the need for frequent reapplication of the product or leaves white spots on the skin, etc.

[027] In view of the frequent problems encountered in the prior art, the holder of the present patent application has developed a new cosmetic composition for sunscreen that combines

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7/27 ingredients free of oil-absorbing particles, or containing up to 7% by weight of these particles, resulting in an innovative and effective product that will be described below.

Objectives of the invention [028] The purpose of the present invention is to present an aqueous cosmetic composition of sunscreen in the form of a serum, free of oil-absorbing particles or endowed with these particles by up to 7% by weight.

[029] The purpose of the present invention is also to provide a cosmetic method for applying said disclosed cosmetic composition.

[030] In addition, the present invention aims at a cosmetic method to prevent and control skin oils.

[031] It is also an object of the present invention to present a cosmetic method to protect the skin from damage caused by ultraviolet radiation. In addition, the present invention aims to use said cosmetic composition for the preparation of a sunscreen.

[032] Finally, the present invention aims at a cosmetic product comprising said cosmetic composition. Brief Description of the Figures [033] Below, reference is made to the figures attached to the text for a better understanding of the examples and embodiments presented, in which:

[034] Figure 1 - illustrates a graph that shows the sebum measurements obtained from the test with the SPF 30 sunscreen (traditional emulsion).

[035] Figure 2 - illustrates a graph that shows the sebum measurements obtained from the test with the sunscreen Serum SPF 30.

[036] Figure 3 - illustrates a graph showing the measurement

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8/27 sebummetry obtained from the Serum SPF 35 sunscreen test. Brief description of the invention [037] The objectives of the present invention are achieved by a cosmetic composition comprising at least one emulsifying agent, at least one water-soluble sunscreen agent and less a fat-soluble sunscreen agent.

[038] Furthermore, the objectives of the present invention are achieved by applying a cosmetically effective amount of said revealed cosmetic composition and spreading it immediately until it forms a homogeneous covering on the skin.

[039] The present invention presents as a differential a sunscreen with a light and fluid consistency in the form of a serum, which in turn brings added to its composition protection against ultraviolet rays UVA and UVB, antioxidant action, fast absorption in the skin, formation of a homogeneous and invisible layer on the skin, as well as the ability to prevent and control skin oiliness for a prolonged period of up to eight hours.

Detailed description of the invention [040] The present invention describes an aqueous cosmetic composition of sunscreen in the form of a serum, free of oil-absorbing particles or endowed with these particles by up to 7% by weight, capable of preventing and controlling skin oiliness by extended period of up to eight hours, as well as to protect the skin from damage caused by ultraviolet radiation.

[041] Serum is a water-based cosmetic that corresponds more specifically to a substance with a noticeably lighter and more fluid texture compared to a cream, for example, non-greasy, with high absorption power and high concentration of substances that act in the layers deeper skin, with an average viscosity of 6,000 centipoises (CPs), which may vary between the lower limit of 3,500 CPs and

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9/27 the upper limit of 20,000 CPs.

[042] In the past, products in the form of serum were intended for treatments of very aged skins, and the formulation of these compositions related these products to anti-aging treatments.

[043] Currently, it is possible to find products in the form of a serum for the most diverse types of cosmetic treatments and with more affordable prices, although they are still more valued due to the demonstrably more effective result they present. In addition, cosmetic products in the form of serum stand out mainly for being absorbed immediately into the skin, without leaving an oily aspect.

[044] Such diversification of treatments with products in the form of a serum is the result of studies and research that showed that the serums may have a more gelled consistency when formulated based on lipids, as well as they may also present a finer, almost liquid consistency when formulated at the same time. water based with minimal amount of lipids.

[045] In this context, the present invention developed an aqueous cosmetic composition of sunscreen with an innovative concept in the segment of sunscreens for the facial treatment line. Its formula particularly combines a polymeric structure with hydrophilic and lipophilic sunscreen agents, in addition to an antioxidant agent, resulting in a product with an SPF of up to 60 and proven effectiveness against the damage caused by ultraviolet radiation.

[046] Furthermore, the sunscreen disclosed in the present patent application presents a perfect composition for individuals with oily or mixed skins, as the serum resulting from the composition in question does not irritate the skin and is capable of preventing and controlling oiliness for a up to eight hours, as demonstrated in the tests that will be described later.

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10/27 [047] Due to its more fluid consistency, the sunscreen in the form of a serum object of the present invention overcomes the drawbacks of a sunscreen in the form of a cream which, due to its denser consistency, tends to leave the skin of the whitish face, marking the eyebrows and hair strands that are close to the forehead.

[048] The composition of the sunscreen revealed here combines ingredients that result in a product with the ability to control the oiliness of the skin for a period of up to eight hours.

[049] The present aqueous cosmetic composition of sunscreen comprises at least one emulsifying agent, at least one water-soluble sunscreen agent and at least one fat-soluble sunscreen agent, or a mixture of the aforementioned cosmetic agents.

[050] Preferably, the cosmetic composition is free of oil-absorbing particles or comprises from zero to seven percent by weight of oil-absorbing particles.

[051] In a preferred embodiment, the emulsifying agent used in the formulation of the cosmetic composition disclosed in the present invention is a polymeric agent, chosen from the group consisting of Acrylate Crosslinked Polymer / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate; Sodium Polyacrylate; Hydroxyethyl acrylate / Sodium Acrylldimethyl Taurate Copolymer; Isohexadecane; Polysorbate 60; Sodium Acrylldimethyl Taurate / VP Copolymer; Polyacrylate 13; Polyisobutene; Polysorbate 20; Hydroxypropyl Phosphate Starch; Polyacrylamide / Laureth-7 / C13-14 Isoparaffin; Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer / lso-hexadexane / Polysorbate 80 or a mixture of emulsifying agents. In general, the emulsifier or mixture of emulsifiers comprises between 3% and 10% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

[052] In a second preferred embodiment, the

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11/27 water-soluble sunscreen used in the formulation of the cosmetic composition disclosed in the present invention is chosen from the group consisting of Dibenzimidazole Phenyl Disodium Tetrasulfonate; Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb Aqua); Benzophenone-4 or a mixture of water-soluble sunscreen agents. In general, the water-soluble sunscreen agent or mixture of water-soluble sunscreen agents comprises between 5% and 20% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

[053] In a third preferred embodiment, the fat-soluble sunscreen agent used in the formulation of the cosmetic composition disclosed in the present invention is chosen from the group consisting of 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5sulfonic acid; 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone Dioxibenzon; (2-hydroxy4methoxyphenyl) (2-hydroxyphenyl) Methanone; 3-benzylidene camphor; (1,3,5) triazine-2,4-bis [(4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy) phenyl] -6- (4-methoxyphenyl); 1 (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione; benzoic acid, 2 - [- 4 (diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl] -, hexyl ester; ethoxyethyl methoxycinnamate; ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate; ethylhexyl salicylate; 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl hydroxybenzoate; 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylic acid, 2-ethylhexyl ester; diethylbenzylidene malonate dimethicone or a mixture of fat-soluble sunscreen agents. In general, the fat-soluble sunscreen agent or mixture of fat-soluble sunscreen agents comprises between 5% and 20% by weight of the cosmetic composition.

[054] Therefore, in a preferred embodiment, the ratio of the emulsifying agent plus the water-soluble sunscreen agent to the fat-soluble sunscreen agent comprises 0.5% and 10.0%. [055] One or more conventional ingredients of cosmetic sunscreen compositions may be present in the composition, such as water, conditioning agent, fragrance agent, extract of

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12/27 plant, moisturizer, antioxidant, emollient, humectant, antimicrobial agent, agents that promote water resistance, viscosity agent, chelator, flavoring, sunscreen, preservative, neutralizing, emulsifier and cosmetically acceptable vehicles. Example 1 [056] In a first preferred embodiment, the aqueous cosmetic composition of sunscreen in the present patent application presents the composition of a serum due to the viscosity (which varied according to the industrial batch of products used) of about 5,870 CPs and about 6.4000 PCs, and the constituent ingredients detailed in the following table, in the respective proportions:

Trade mark INCI nomenclature Qt% Occupation Pemulen TR1 Acrylic Crosslinked Polymer / C 10-30 Alkali Acrylate 0.12 agent of viscosity EDETA B (Tetrasodium EDTA) EDTA Tetrasodium 0.05 chelating Frescolat MGA Mentone Glycerin Acetate 0.14 flavoring Glycerin Glycerin 2 humectant CETIOL CC Dicaprilil carbonate 2.5 emollient COSMEDIASP Sodium Polyacrylate 1.2 agent of viscosity Simulgel INS- 100 Acrylate Hydroxyethyl / Taurate Copolymer Acryloyldimethyl Sodium; Isohexadecane; Polysorbate 60 1 agent of viscosity DC 200/50 CS Dimethicone 0.5 conditioning agent

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Trade mark INCI nomenclature Qt% Occupation NEO HELIOPAN HYDRO Sulphonic Acid Phenylbenzimidazole 7 sunblock NEO HELIOPAN AP Tetrasulfonate Dibenzimidazole Phenyl Disodium 2 sunblock SUNQUART BC-50 Benzalkonium chloride 0.194 preservative Benzilic alcohol Benzilic alcohol 0.6 preservative Phenoxyethanol Phenoxyethanol 0.5 preservative ARISTOFLEX AVS Sodium Acrylldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer 1 agent of viscosity Feverfew Cone. Enriched Serum Fraction CMP-01A Chrysanthemum Parthenium (Feverfew) Flower / Leaf / Sap 0.1 antioxidant Delicate 146731 Fragrance 0.07 fragrance Neo Heliopan OS Ethylhexyl salicylate 2 sunblock Uvinul MC 80 (OMC) Methoxycinnamate Ethylxyl 1 sunblock Neo Heliopan HMS Homosalate 3 sunblock Uvinul A Plus Granular Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate 1 sunblock Sodium Hydroxide (50%) Sodium Hydroxide 2.8 neutralizing SEPIPLUS400 Polyacrylate 13; Polyisobutene; Polysorbate 20 1 agent of viscosity VELVESIL # DM Dimethicone; Polymer Reticulate of Dimethicone 3 conditioning agent STRUCTURE XL Hydroxypropyl Phosphate Starch 1 agent of viscosity Water 66,226 vehicle

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Example 2 [057] In a second preferred embodiment, the aqueous cosmetic composition of sunscreen in the present patent application presents the composition of a serum due to the viscosity (which varied according to the industrial batch of products used) of about 13,500 CPs , about 11,800 CPs and about 18,300 CPs, and the constituent ingredients detailed in the following table, in the respective proportions:

Trade mark INCI nomenclature Qt% Occupation Pemulen TR1 Crosslinked Polymer Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 0.12 agent of viscosity EDETA B (Tetrasodium EDTA) EDTA Tetrasodium 0.05 chelating Frescolat MGA Glycerin Acetate Mint 0.14 flavoring Glycerin Glycerin 2 humectant CETIOL CC Dicaprilil carbonate 2.5 emollient COSMEDIASP Sodium Polyacrylate 1.2 agent of viscosity Simulgel INS - 100 Hydroxyethyl acrylate / Sodium Acrylldimethyl Taurate Copolymer; Isohexadecane; Polysorbate 60 1 agent of viscosity DC 200/50 CS Dimethicone 0.5 conditioning agent NEO HELIOPAN HYDRO Sulphonic Acid Phenylbenzimidazole 7 sunblock

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Trade mark INCI nomenclature Qt% Occupation NEO HELIOPAN AP Tetrasulfonate Dibenzimidazole Phenyl Disodium 5 sunblock SUNQUART BC- 50 Benzalkonium chloride 0.194 preservative Benzilic alcohol Benzilic alcohol 0.6 preservative Phenoxyethanol Phenoxyethanol 0.5 preservative ARISTOFLEX AVS Sodium Acrylldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer 1 agent of viscosity Feverfew Cone. Enriched Serum Fraction CMP-01A Chrysanthemum Parthenium (Feverfew) Flower / Leaf / Sap 0.1 antioxidant Delicate 146731 Fragrance 0.12 fragrance Neo Heliopan OS Ethylhexyl salicylate 2 sunblock Uvinul MC 80 (OMC) Methoxycinnamate Ethylxyl 1 sunblock Neo Heliopan HMS Homosalate 3 sunblock Uvinul A Plus Granular Benzoate Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl 4.5 sunblock Sodium Hydroxide (50%) Sodium Hydroxide 2.8 neutralizing SEPIPLUS400 Polyacrylate 13; Polyisobutene; Polysorbate 20 1 agent of viscosity VELVESIL # DM Dimethicone; Polymer Reticulate of Dimethicone 3 conditioning agent

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Trade mark INCI nomenclature Qt% Occupation STRUCTURE XL Phosphate Hydroxypropyl Starch 1 agent of viscosity Water Water 58,376 vehicle Brij 721 Steareth-21 0.5 Emulsifier Extract Portulaca Water; Butylene Glycol; Portulaca Extract Oleracea 0.3 conditioning agent Sepicontrol A5 Capryloyl Glycine; Sarcosine; Bark Extract Cinnamomum Zeylanicum 0.5 conditioning agent

Example 3 [058] In a third preferred embodiment, the aqueous cosmetic composition of sunscreen in the present patent application presents the composition of a serum due to the viscosity (which varied according to the industrial batch of products used) of about 7,176 CPs and about 8,554 CPs, and to the constituent ingredients detailed in the following table, in the respective proportions:

Brand Commercial INCI nomenclature Qt% Occupation Pemulen TR1 Crosslinked Polymer Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate 0.12 agent of viscosity EDETA B (Tetrasodium EDTA) EDTA Tetrasodium 0.05 chelating

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Brand Commercial INCI nomenclature Qt% Occupation Frescolat MGA Glycerin Acetate Mint 0.14 flavoring Glycerin Glycerin 2 humectant CETIOL CC Dicaprilil carbonate 2.5 emollient COSMEDIASP Sodium Polyacrylate 1.2 agent of viscosity Simulgel INS - 100 Hydroxyethyl acrylate / Sodium Acrylldimethyl Taurate Copolymer; Isohexadecane; Polysorbate 60 1 agent of viscosity DC 200/50 CS Dimethicone 0.5 conditioning agent NEO HELIOPAN HYDRO Sulphonic Acid Phenylbenzimidazole 7 sunblock NEO HELIOPAN AP Tetrasulfonate Dibenzimidazole Phenyl Disodium 5 sunblock SUNQUART BC- 50 Benzalkonium chloride 0.194 preservative Benzilic alcohol Benzilic alcohol 0.6 preservative Phenoxyethanol Phenoxyethanol 0.5 preservative ARISTOFLEX AVS Sodium Acrylldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer 1 agent of viscosity Feverfew Cone. Enriched Serum Fraction CMP-01A Chrysanthemum Parthenium (Feverfew) Flower / Leaf / Sap 0.1 antioxidant

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Brand Commercial INCI nomenclature Qt% Occupation Delicate 146731 Fragrance 0.12 fragrance Neo Heliopan OS Ethylhexyl salicylate 2 sunblock Uvinul MC 80 (OMC) Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 1 sunblock Neo Heliopan HMS Homosalate 3 sunblock Uvinul A Plus Granular Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate 4.5 sunblock Sodium Hydroxide (50%) Sodium Hydroxide 2.8 neutralizing SEPIPLUS400 Polyacrylate 13; Poly- isobutene; Polysorbate 20 1 agent of viscosity VELVESIL # DM Dimethicone; Polymer Dimethicone Reticulate 3 conditioning agent STRUCTURE XL Hydroxypropyl Phosphate Starch 1 agent of viscosity Water 57,876 vehicle Brij 721 Steareth-21 0.5 Emulsifier Extract Portulaca Water; Butylene Glycol; Portulaca Extract Oleracea 0.3 conditioning agent Sepicontrol A5 Capryloyl Glycine; Sarcosine; Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract 1 conditioning agent

[059] As can be seen in the comparative analysis of the three non-limiting preferential embodiments mentioned above, the

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19/27 the vast majority of the constituent elements are present in all compositions, since they are necessary to guarantee all the desired effects in the final product, such as efficiency in protecting against UVA and UVB sunlight, easy spreading and absorption by the skin, control user's skin oil for up to eight hours, among others.

[060] Thus, whatever the special composition of the composition, it must be ensured that the viscosity of the resulting composition assumes values that characterize it as a serum, namely, between 3,500 and 20,000 CPs, being more preferably around 6,000 CPs , which maximizes the effects intended and desired by the user.

[061] Furthermore, it should be noted that the analysis of the three tables clearly shows that the vehicle used is water, precisely because of its viscosity properties and the absence of oily elements, in addition to being inert, colorless and odorless. Other vehicles with density similar to that of water, such as ethyl alcohol and glycerin, have properties that may remain undesirable and do not allow the composition to control the user's skin oiliness for up to eight hours.

[062] In any case, a composition included in the scope of protection of the attached claims is one that uses another necessary or desirable vehicle to, in combination with one or more viscosity agents, guarantee a viscosity value that makes it possible to characterize it as a serum.

[063] In a preferred embodiment, the composition of the present sunscreen is prepared in two phases, namely: water phase and oil phase, which are subsequently mixed in the emulsification phase.

[064] Water phase: In a suitable container add the water, the tetrasodium EDTA, shake. Keep the stirring strong and add the

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Crosslinked Polymer of Acrylates / C 10-30 Alkyl Acrylate, glycerin and sodium hydroxide. Still under agitation add the Sulfonic Acid Phenylbenzimidazole, and the Dibenzimidazole Phenyl Disodium Tetrasulfonate. Shake until a homogeneous solution without lumps. Add Sodium Polyacrylate, keep stirring and add Hydroxypropyl Phosphate Starch. Start heating with stirring. When it reaches a temperature above 60 ° C. Add Dimethicone; Dimethicone Crosslinked Polymer.

[065] Oily Phase: In a suitable container, weigh the following components: Dicaprilil Carbonate, Diethylamino Benzoate, Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Homoslate, Dimethicone, Phenoxyethanol and Steareth 21. Start heating under agitation .

[066] When both phases reach 75 ° C maintain agitation and temperature and add the oil phase over the water phase. Add with stirring the Hydroxyethyl Acrylate / Sodium Acrylldimethyl Taurate Copolymer; Isohexadecane; Polysorbate 60. Keep stirring and add Sodium Acrylldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer. Continue stirring and add Polyacrylate 13; Polyisobutene; Polysorbate 20. Start cooling. When the temperature is 40 ° C or less, add Mentone Glycerin Acetate. While stirring, add benzyl alcohol and benzalkonium chloride. Keep stirring and add the portulaca extract, feverfew fragrance and Capriloil Glicina; Sarcosine; Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract. Check pH and viscosity. End of the process. [067] The scope of the patent application also comprises a cosmetic method for applying the composition disclosed in the present invention, defined by the steps of applying a cosmetically effective amount of said composition and spreading immediately until it forms a homogeneous covering on the skin.

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21/27 [068] In addition, the application provides a cosmetic method to prevent and control skin oiliness, comprising applying a cosmetically effective amount of the composition defined above and spreading it immediately until it forms a homogeneous covering on the skin.

[069] With regard to protection against UVA and UVB rays, the present application provides a cosmetic method to protect the skin from damage caused by ultraviolet radiation which comprises the steps of applying a cosmetically effective amount of the previously defined composition and spreading immediately until form a homogeneous coverage on the skin.

[070] However, the scope of the application covers the use of the composition as defined for the preparation of a sunscreen, as well as a cosmetic product comprising a composition as defined in claims 1 to 12.

[071] To prove the effectiveness of the sunscreen developed in the present invention, four tests with consumers were developed, the results of which are described below.

Comparative Test - Sensory Perception of the Sunscreen SPF 30 [072] To prove the efficiency of the cosmetic composition described in the preferred embodiment of this application, the Comparative Test of Sensory Perception of the Sunscreen SPF 30 evaluated the sensory perception of the sunscreen here called Serum SPF 30 and compared its performance with another sunscreen, in the form of a conventional emulsion, sold on the market with SPF 30, here called as SPF 30 Control.

[073] The comparative test was carried out with one hundred volunteers, and the recruitment criterion determined the participation of women aged between 30 and 50 years old, who used facial sunscreen every day and had normal and / or oily skin, with color of skin

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22/27 white to light brown (phototype II, III and IV).

[074] The participants received, at random, only a sample of one of the products for them to use in a week, thus replacing the facial sunscreen that they were used to. After a week, the volunteers answered a questionnaire about the sunscreen used during this period.

[075] Serum SPF 30 sunscreen was well evaluated when compared to SPF 30 sunscreen control (75% vs. 54%), showing better performance in attributes such as appearance (84% vs. 55%), texture (85% vs 61%), immediate hydration (70% vs. 40%) and pleasant feeling after application (65% vs. 45%).

Efficacy Test - SPF 35 [076] The SPF 35 Test was carried out with the purpose of evaluating the performance of the sunscreen developed by the holder of this patent application, prepared with a new formulation that expands its sun protection factor, having been here called Serum SPF 35.

[077] The Serum SPF 35 sunscreen comprises a composition free of oil-absorbing particles or endowed with these particles in up to 7% by weight, based on a polymeric structure, with protection against UVA and UVB rays and active ingredients as conditioning agents. skin (Sepicontrol A5 and Portulaca extract) that help fight acne. Additionally, the Serum SPF 35 sunscreen does not contain paraben (preservative) and oxybenzone (fat-soluble sunscreen) in its formulation.

[078] The test was carried out with fifty-five volunteers who agreed to use the sunscreen for two weeks. The result showed that the SPF 35 Serum was well evaluated in several criteria, standing out in the control of oiliness (80%), fragrance (78%) and consistency (62%).

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Comparative Test of Effectiveness in the Control of Oiliness [079] To prove the effectiveness in controlling the oiliness of the composition of the sunscreen developed against the products sold on the market, the holder of the present patent application carried out a comparative test between sunscreens for the line of facial treatment, here called Control SPF 30 (traditional emulsion), Serum SPF 30 and Serum SPF 35.

[080] The test was carried out with thirty volunteers, men and women, aged between 22 and 53 years. Candidates with a history of skin reactions to toiletry products for skin care or known allergies, or sensitivity to ingredients of the product under test were not allowed to participate in the test. In addition, participants who were undergoing dermatological treatment on the face, those with pre-existing or dormant conditions on the forehead (eczema, psoriasis, rashes, etc.), those who were participating in other studies of efficacy or who planned to participate in another effectiveness study during the 24-hour period, pregnant or lactating candidates and volunteers rated by the evaluator as not able to complete the study.

[081] The criteria for recruitment determined that, two days before the beginning of the tests, the participants discontinued the use of any astringent or exfoliating product, lotions, moisturizers, creams, etc., in the forehead region. On the day of the test, the volunteers were instructed not to wash their foreheads and to refrain from using moisturizers, oils, sunscreens, etc.

[082] The measurement of the oiliness of each site of the skin was obtained by an appraiser suitably qualified in the segment, using an appropriate equipment for this purpose - Sebumeter® S850. Such equipment generates a result measured by sebummetry which, in turn, reveals the amount of sebum secretion in the skin. The principle of

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24/27 measurement is based on the photometric method in which the transparency of the photocell generated by contact with sebum is measured. Light transmission represents the sebum content on the surface of the evaluated area.

[083] The oil assessment was carried out in a heated room with a temperature between 20 ° C and 24 ° C and a relative humidity of 45 ° C to 55 ° C. All volunteers were kept in this condition for at least 15 minutes before readings at all times of measurement.

[084] After 15 minutes of acclimatization of the volunteers, the evaluator randomly outlined two evaluation sites of 2.5 x 4 cm on the volunteers' forehead, using a surgical pen. A baseline measurement was obtained, and the sites were washed with 0.1 ml of anti-residue soap for 30 seconds by massaging, and 30 seconds by rinsing. After 5 minutes, new measurements were obtained. The application of the products was made randomly by the trained evaluator, in the amount of 2 mg / cm ² . Then, the volunteers were instructed to be extremely careful not to rub or touch the test area during the entire assessment.

[085] The measurements were obtained from the skin at both sites: without treatment (S / T) and with application of the tested product, in the periods after 5 minutes of rinsing, and after 30 minutes, 2 hours, 4 hours, 6 hours and 8 hours of application of the product under test.

[086] The results are shown in the respective tables below, in which the values of the Average correspond to the average of the sebummetry values of the ten volunteers evaluated in each test, and the values of the Deviation correspond to the average of the respective standard deviation values:

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8h after application C.SPF 30 214.83 32.91 ω 209.50 39.17 6h after application C.SPF 30 215.60 50.28 ω 206.47 49.53 4h after application C.SPF 30 191.10 44.99 ω 186.43 53.00 2h after application C.SPF 30 138.37 38.59 121.30 38.04 30m after application C.SPF 30 107.43 37.02 ω 76.57 32.48 5m after washing C.SPF 30 22.70 00 CD ω 20.80 o oo o Basal C.SPF 30 1 ^ 00 53.09 S / T 145.73 54.13 Average Detour

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8h after application S.SPF 30 195.43 52.44 S / T 217.60 53.52 6h after application S.SPF 30 177.60 59.73 S / T 204.10 55.78 4h after application S.SPF 30 167.10 00 O S / T 193.23 00 O 2h after application S.SPF 30 123.93 51.79 ω 151.47 74.41 30m after application S.SPF 30 85.37 99 09 S / T 101.20 63.75 5m after washing S.SPF 30 22.20 11.09 ω 27.17 POO 00 Basal S.SPF 30 158.93 39.18 ω 168.23 36.55 Average Detour

8h after application S.SPF 35 193.90 37.03 S / T 215.53 48.57 6h after application S.SPF 35 181.73 43.64 ω 209.73 52.76 4h after application S.SPF 35 137.23 48.66 ω 179.97 60.72 2h after application S.SPF 35 111.67 41.34 S / T 138.33 52.53 30m after application S.SPF 35 66.87 27.30 ω 72.77 28.69 5m after washing S.SPF 35 16.27 9.03 S / T 17.63 11.63 Basal S.SPF 35 171.97 42.56 ω 159.83 44.98 Average Detour

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27/27 [089] Considering the oil values of both sites without treatment (S / T) and with application of the tested product (S.SPF 35), shown in Table 3 and Figure 3, the site treated with the product Serum SPF 35 showed a reduction in skin oiliness for eight hours, with a statistical difference when compared to the untreated site (p <0.05).

[090] In view of the results obtained in the Comparative Test of Effectiveness in Oil Control, it is concluded that:

- Control SPF 30 facial sunscreen (in the form of conventional emulsion) did not present oil control for eight hours when compared to the untreated site;

- Serum SPF 30 facial sunscreen (in the form of a serum) showed oil control for eight hours with statistical difference when compared to the untreated site; and

- Serum SPF 35 facial sunscreen (in the form of a serum) showed oil control for eight hours with statistical difference when compared to the untreated site.

[091] Having described examples of preferred embodiments, it should be understood that the scope of the present invention covers other possible variations, being limited only by the content of the appended claims, including possible equivalents therein.

Claims (9)

1/2 1. Aqueous cosmetic composition of sunscreen characterized by the fact that it comprises: The. between 3% to 10% by weight of the composition of an emulsifying agent selected from the group consisting of Crosslinked Acrylate Polymer / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate; Sodium Polyacrylate; Hydroxyethyl acrylate / Sodium Acrylldimethyl Taurate Copolymer; Isohexadecane; Polysorbate 60; Sodium Acrylldimethyl Taurate / VP Copolymer; Polyacrylate 13; Polyisobutene; Polysorbate 20; Hydroxypropyl Phosphate Starch; Polyacrylamide / Laureth-7 / C13-14 Isoparaffin or Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acrylildimethyl Taurate Copolymer / lsohexadexane / Polysorbate 80; B. between 5% to 20% by weight of the composition. of a water-soluble sunscreen agent selected from the group consisting of Dibenzimidazole Phenyl Disodium Tetrasulfonate; Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb Aqua); and ç. between 5% to 20% by weight of the composition of a fat-soluble sunscreen agent selected from the group consisting of 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid; 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone Dioxibenzon; (2-hydroxy-4-methoxyphenyl) (2-hydroxyphenyl) Methanone; 3-benzylidene camphor; (1,3,5) -triazine 2,4-bis [(4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy) phenyl] -6- (4-methoxyphenyl); 1- (4-tertbutylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione; benzoic acid, 2- [4 (diethylamino) -2-hydroxybenzoyl] -, hexyl ester; ethoxyethyl methoxycinnamate; ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate; ethylhexyl salicylate; 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl hydroxybenzoate; 2-cyano-3,3-diphenyl acrylic acid, 2-ethylhexyl ester or diethylbenzylidene malonate dimethicone; in which said composition is in the form of a serum and has a viscosity in the range of 3,500 to 20,000 CPs. 2. Composition according to claim 1, Petition 870180060689, of 07/13/2018, p. 44/57 2/2 characterized by the fact that the ratio between the emulsifying agent plus the water-soluble sunscreen agent to the fat-soluble sunscreen agent is between 0.5% and 10.0%. 3. Composition according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that it is used on the skin of the face. 4. Composition according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that it has a sun protection factor between 2 and 60. 5. Cosmetic method for applying a composition as defined in claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it comprises applying a cosmetically effective amount of said composition and spreading it immediately until it forms a homogeneous covering on the skin. 6. Cosmetic method for preventing and controlling skin oiliness, characterized by the fact that it comprises applying a cosmetically effective amount of the composition as defined in claims 1 to 5 and spreading it immediately until it forms a homogeneous covering on the skin. 7. Cosmetic method to protect the skin from damage caused by ultraviolet radiation characterized by the fact that it comprises applying a cosmetically effective amount of the composition as defined in claims 1 to 5 and spreading immediately until it forms a homogeneous covering on the skin. 8. Use of a composition as defined in claims 1 to 5, characterized by the fact that it is for the preparation of a sunscreen. 9. Cosmetic product characterized by the fact that it comprises a composition as defined in claims 1 to 5.