WO2018228783A1 - Émulsion eau-dans-huile à base de charges non épaississantes, non interférentielles, sur une huile non volatile, sur un polymère filmogène hydrophobe, sur et émulsionnant de l'élastomère silicone et sur des pigments - Google Patents

Émulsion eau-dans-huile à base de charges non épaississantes, non interférentielles, sur une huile non volatile, sur un polymère filmogène hydrophobe, sur et émulsionnant de l'élastomère silicone et sur des pigments Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2018228783A1
WO2018228783A1 PCT/EP2018/063474 EP2018063474W WO2018228783A1 WO 2018228783 A1 WO2018228783 A1 WO 2018228783A1 EP 2018063474 W EP2018063474 W EP 2018063474W WO 2018228783 A1 WO2018228783 A1 WO 2018228783A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
oil
powders
weight
silicone
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PCT/EP2018/063474
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English (en)
Inventor
Valérie Dique-Mouton
Carl Riachi
Sylvie GINESTON
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2018228783A1 publication Critical patent/WO2018228783A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/35—Ketones, e.g. benzophenone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of caring for and making up keratin materials, and in particular the skin. More particularly, the present invention relates to compositions intended to confer a satiny effect on the skin, exhibiting a good wear property of this satiny effect over time and also resistance to transfer onto supports in contact with said keratin materials.
  • Cosmetic compositions for instance foundations, are commonly used to give the skin, especially the face, a color and an esthetic effect.
  • These makeup products generally contain oils, pigments, fillers and optionally additives such as cosmetic or dermatological active agents.
  • compositions based on nacres and large amounts of nonvolatile oils, preferably having a refractive index n > 1 .450, are generally used. These compositions have a tendency to produce a dullness, a loss of the color and excessive gloss at the end of the day, which gives an unnatural result.
  • consumers wish to obtain a good wear property, over the course of the day, of this luminous makeup and also good resistance to transfer onto various supports in contact with keratin materials such as the skin, for instance clothing, smartphones.
  • the object of the present invention is to meet these needs.
  • composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, containing at least:
  • At least one non-thickening, non-interference filler having a mean size of less than 15.0 ⁇ and an oil absorption capacity Wp of at least 40 ml/100 g; and g) an emulsifying system comprising at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer;
  • the present invention thus relates to a composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion, in particular comprising a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, containing at least:
  • At least one non-thickening, non-interference filler having a mean size of less than 15.0 ⁇ and an oil absorption capacity Wp of at least 40 ml/100 g; and g) an emulsifying system comprising at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer;
  • the total amount of particulate matter/total amount of solids weight ratio ranging from 30% to 55%, preferably ranging from 35% to 50%.
  • the invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, such as the skin, characterized in that it comprises the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined previously.
  • keratin material especially means the skin (of the body, face, around the eyes, or the eyelids).
  • physiologically acceptable means compatible with the skin and/or its integuments, which has a pleasant color, odor and feel, and which does not cause any unacceptable discomfort (stinging or tautness) liable to discourage the consumer from using this composition.
  • the oil absorption capacity measured at the wet point corresponds to the amount of oil which it is necessary to add to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste. It is measured according to the "wet point” method or the method for determining the oil uptake of a powder described in standard ISO 787-5:1980. It corresponds to the amount of oil adsorbed onto the available surface of the powder and/or absorbed by the powder by measuring the wet point, described below:
  • water-in-oil emulsion also referred to as inverse emulsion
  • inverse emulsion is intended to denote any composition constituted of an oily continuous phase in which the aqueous phase is dispersed in the form of droplets so as to observe a macroscopically homogeneous mixture with the naked eye.
  • emulsifying system refers to any compound or mixture of compounds that is capable of increasing the kinetic stability of an emulsion. These compounds are generally amphiphilic and are surfactants characterized by their more or less hydrophilic or more or less lipophilic nature which will determine their ability to stabilize direct emulsions or inverse emulsions. They are especially classified by their HLB according to the calculation method of W.C. Griffin in the document “Classification of Surface Active Agents by HLB, Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 1 (1949) 31 1 " and in the document “Calculation of HLB of Non Ionic Surfactants, Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists 5 (1954) 249". The calculation of the HLB according to this calculation method is performed according to the equation:
  • HLB 20 X Mh/W where Mh is the molar mass of the hydrophilic part of the surfactant and W is the total molecular weight of the molecule.
  • Mh the molar mass of the hydrophilic part of the surfactant
  • W the total molecular weight of the molecule.
  • Mh the molar mass of the hydrophilic part of the surfactant
  • W the total molecular weight of the molecule.
  • the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W/O emulsions, according to the Griffin method.
  • mean particle size means the median volume size D[50] representing the maximum size of 50% by volume of the particles.
  • the sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 3000 particle size analyzer from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which may extend from 0.01 ⁇ to 1000 ⁇ .
  • the data are processed on the basis of the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron; it allows an "effective" particle diameter to be determined. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957. D[50] represents the maximum size of 50% by volume of the particles.
  • solids content denotes the content of nonvolatile matter.
  • the amount of solids content (abbreviated as SC) of a composition according to the invention is measured using a Halogen Moisture Analyzer HG 53 commercial halogen desiccator from Mettler Toledo. The measurement is carried out on the basis of the weight loss of a sample dried by halogen heating and thus represents the percentage of residual material once the water and the volatile substances have evaporated off after heating for 120 min at 60°C. This technique is perfectly described in the documentation of the apparatus supplied by Mettler Toledo. The measurement protocol is as follows:
  • sample Approximately 2 g of the composition, referred to hereinbelow as the sample, are spread out on a metal crucible, which is placed in the halogen desiccator mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 60°C for 120 min. The wet weight of the sample, corresponding to its initial weight, and the dry weight of the sample, corresponding to its weight after halogen heating, are measured using a precision balance.
  • the experimental error associated with the measurement is of the order of plus or minus 2%.
  • the solids content is calculated in the following manner:
  • particle matter is intended to mean any compound in the form of particles which are insoluble and dispersible in the composition of the invention.
  • filler should be understood as meaning a colorless or white solid particle of any form, which is in an insoluble form dispersed in the medium of the composition.
  • non-thickening filler should be understood as meaning a particle which does not make it possible to increase the viscosity of the composition or to gel the composition.
  • non-interference filler denotes any particle which does not have a structure such that it allows the creation of a color effect or optical effect by interference of light rays, which diffract and scatter differently according to the nature of the layers.
  • the interference particles may be in particular natural or synthetic, monolayer or multilayer nacres, in particular formed from a natural substrate based, inter alia, on mica, which is covered with one or more layers of metal oxide.
  • the aqueous phase comprises water and optionally water-soluble or water-miscible ingredients, such as water-soluble solvents.
  • the aqueous phase represents from 30% to 50% by weight and more particularly from 35% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a water that is suitable for use in the invention may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel® water, Lucas® water or La Roche Posay® water and/or a thermal spring water.
  • water-soluble solvent denotes a compound that is liquid at ambient temperature and water-miscible (miscibility with water of greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
  • the water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition of the invention may also be volatile.
  • volatile water-soluble solvents that may be used in the composition in accordance with the invention, mention may be made especially of lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol and isopropanol.
  • lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol and isopropanol.
  • the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one water- soluble liquid polyol.
  • water-soluble liquid polyol is intended to mean any organic molecule comprising at least two hydroxyl groups (OH), which is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure and water-miscible (water-miscibility greater than 50% by weight at 25°C and atmospheric pressure).
  • OH hydroxyl groups
  • water-soluble polyols mention may be made of compounds constituted of a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain comprising at least two OH functions.
  • the alkyl chain preferably comprises from 2 to 32 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 16 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 8 carbon atoms.
  • the polyol can be chosen from glycols such as ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, , dipropylene glycol, glycerol (glycerine); polyglycerols such as glycerol oligomers, for example diglycerol; polyethylene glycols, and mixtures thereof.
  • glycols such as ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, 1 ,3-propanediol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, isoprene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, , dipropylene glycol, glycerol (glycerine); polyglycerols
  • the polyol is chosen from glycerol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the polyol(s) are present in the composition in contents ranging from 3% to 15% by weight, preferably from 5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the invention comprises a discontinuous oily phase.
  • Said phase is liquid (in the absence of structuring agent) at ambient temperature (20-25°C). It is organic (comprising at least carbon atoms of hydrogen atoms) and water- immiscible.
  • the oily phase (or fatty phase) of the compositions according to the invention comprises at least one oil and optionally ingredients that are soluble or miscible in oils. It may be constituted of a single oil or of a mixture of several oils.
  • oil refers to any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and at atmospheric pressure. These oils may be of plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • the oils are chosen from the group constituted of hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, fluoro oils and mixtures thereof.
  • oil refers to a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 10 5 Pa).
  • the oil may be volatile or nonvolatile.
  • silicon oil means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and especially at least one
  • fluoro oil refers to an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil refers to an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions.
  • volatile oil refers to any oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, which is liquid at ambient temperature, especially having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 "3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • nonvolatile oil refers to an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that especially has a vapor pressure of less than 10 "3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • the oily phase represents from 30% to 55% by weight and more particularly from 35% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • Nonvolatile oils The composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonvolatile oil.
  • nonvolatile oil is intended to mean an oil which remains on the skin or the keratinous fiber at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and which in particular has a vapor pressure of less than 10 "3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • the oil can be chosen from all oils, preferably physiologically acceptable oils, in particular mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic oils; especially nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils and/or nonvolatile silicone oils and/or nonvolatile fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil is intended to mean an oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.
  • nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used in the invention, of:
  • hydrocarbon-based oils of plant origin such as fatty acid triglycerides containing from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, for instance caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by Dynamit Nobel; triglycerides of branched C18-C36 fatty acids and of glycerol, such as that sold under the name DUB TGI 24® by Stearineries Dubois (INCI name C18-36 Acid Triglyceride);
  • ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether
  • synthetic esters in particular of fatty acids isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, 2-octyldodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate, diisostearyl malate or tridecyl trimellitate;
  • - fatty alcohols that are liquid at ambient temperature, containing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol or oleyl alcohol; - higher fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid;
  • hydrocarbon-based and/or silicone fluoro oils for instance fluorosilicone oils, fluoropolyethers and fluorosilicones as described in EP-A-847 752;
  • silicone oils such as nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs); phenylated silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethyl-siloxysilicates; and
  • PDMSs nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • phenylated silicones for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethyl-siloxysilicates
  • the oily phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonvolatile oil having a refractive index n of greater than or equal to 1 .450.
  • the refractive index is measured at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, i.e. 10 5 Pa).
  • the refractive index of a substance is the ratio of the speed of light in a vacuum to its speed in the substance. It is also the ratio of the sine of the angle of incidence to the sine of the angle of refraction. In general, the refractive index of a given substance varies with the length of the light refracted and with the temperature.
  • Said nonvolatile oil is chosen in particular from:
  • esters of fatty acids such as isostearyl lactate, isostearyl palmitate, octyldodecyl neodecanoate, isocetyl stearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, 2- ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecyl stearate, octyldodecyl myristate, diisostearyl adipate, octyl hydroxystearate, glyceryl triisostearate, octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate, diisocetyl dodecanedioate, dipentaerythrityl hexacaprylate/hexacaprate, 2-octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, pentaerythrityl tetra(octyldodecanoate),
  • oils comprising polyoxypropylene (POP) or polyoxyethylene (POE) groups, such as oxypropylenated (3 OP) dimyristyl adipate, oxyethylenated (7 OE) glyceryl triacetate, PEG-4 (4 OE), PEG-6 (6 OE), PEG-8 (8 OE) or octyldodecyl/PPG-3 myristyl ether dimer dilinoleate;
  • POP polyoxypropylene
  • POE polyoxyethylene
  • nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils with a refractive index of greater than or equal to 1 .450 mention may in particular be made of liquid lipophilic organic UV- screening agents.
  • liquid lipophilic organic UV-screening agent means any organic chemical molecule that is capable of absorbing at least UV radiation in the wavelength range between 280 and 400 nm, said molecule being in liquid form at ambient temperature (20 - 25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) and capable of being miscible in an oily phase.
  • liquid organic UV-screening agents that can be used according to the invention may be chosen from
  • liquid lipophilic organic UVB-screening agents that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the liquid lipophilic alkyl ⁇ , ⁇ - diphenylacrylate or a-cyano ⁇ -diphenylacrylate compounds of formula (I) below:
  • Ri to R3 can have the following meanings:
  • - Ri and R'i which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a straight-chain or branched-chain Ci-Cs alkoxy radical or a straight-chain or branched-chain Ci-C 4 alkyl radical;
  • R2 represents a straight-chain or branched-chain C1-C12 alkyl radical
  • R3 represents a hydrogen atom or the CN radical.
  • Ci-Cs alkoxy radicals mention may be made, for example, of methoxy, ethoxy, n-propoxy, isopropoxy, n-butoxy, isobutoxy, tert-butoxy, n-amyloxy, isoamyloxy, neopentyloxy, n-hexyloxy, n- heptyloxy, n-octyloxy and 2-ethylhexyloxy radicals.
  • Ci-C 4 alkyl radicals mention may more particularly be made of methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl radicals.
  • C1-C2 alkyl radicals mention may be made, by way of example, in addition to those mentioned above, of n-amyl, isoamyl, neopentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, 2-ethylhexyl, decyl and lauryl radicals.
  • liquid lipophilic salicylate compounds of use according to the invention mention may be made of:
  • liquid lipophilic cinnamate compounds that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of:
  • Neo Heliopan E 1000 sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000 by Symrise.
  • liquid lipophilic screening agents use will more particularly be made of the compound Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate.
  • phenylated silicone (also referred to as phenylated silicone oil) is intended to mean an organopolysiloxane substituted with at least one phenyl group.
  • the phenylated silicone oil can be chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes, trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or (2- phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.
  • the silicone oil can correspond to the formula:
  • the silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six.
  • the silicone oil corresponds to the formula:
  • said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.
  • Mention may be made, for example, of mixtures of triphenyl, tetraphenyl or pentaphenyl organopolysiloxane.
  • the silicone oil corresponds to the formula:
  • Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl.
  • phenylated silicone is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid® (INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane).
  • Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid® may also be used.
  • the silicone oil corresponds to the formula:
  • phenylated silicone oil can be chosen from the phenylated silicones of following formula (VI):
  • - Ri to R10 are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
  • n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum m+n+q is other than 0.
  • the sum "m+n+p+q" is between 1 and 100.
  • the sum "m+n+q” is between 1 and 900 and better still between 1 and 800.
  • q is equal to 0.
  • the phenylated silicone oil can be chosen from the phenylated silicones of following formul
  • - Ri to R6 independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon-based radicals, - m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum n+m is between 1 and 100.
  • Ri to R6 independently of each other, represent a saturated, linear or branched C1-C30 and especially C1-C12 hydrocarbon-based radical and in particular a methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl radical.
  • Ri to R6 may especially be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
  • Ri to R6 may especially be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
  • m 1 or 2 or 3
  • a phenylated silicone oil of formula (VI) having a viscosity at 25°C of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 /s (i.e. 5 to 1500 cSt) and preferably having a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm 2 /s (i.e. 5 to 1000 cSt).
  • - phenyl trimethicones such as DC556® from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), the oil Silbione 70663V30® from Rhone-Poulenc (28 cSt) or diphenyl dimethicones such as Belsil oils, especially Belsil PDM1000® (1000 cSt), Belsil PDM 200® (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 ® (20 cSt) from Wacker.
  • the values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°C.
  • the nonvolatile oil(s) with a refractive index n greater than or equal to 1 .450 in accordance with the invention are chosen from liquid organic UV-screening agents, phenylated silicones, and mixtures thereof, more particularly from organic UV-screening agents of the cinnamate type, in particular ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, phenyl trimethicones, and mixtures thereof.
  • the nonvolatile oil or oils with in particular a refractive index n of greater than or equal to 1 .450 in accordance with the invention are preferably present in a concentration ranging from 5% to 20% by weight, preferably from 5% to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise in the oily phase at least one volatile oil.
  • volatile oil is intended to mean, within the meaning of the invention, an oil which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratinous fiber in less than one hour, at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure.
  • volatile oils of the invention are volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature, with a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 "3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • the volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based volatile oils and silicone volatile oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils chosen from hydrocarbon- based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched Cs-Ci6 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • Other volatile hydrocarbon-based oils for instance petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company Shell, may also be used; volatile linear alkanes, such as those described in patent application DE10 2008 012 457 from the company Cognis.
  • the composition can additionally comprise at least one volatile silicone oil.
  • volatile silicone oils of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8x10 "6 m 2 /s) and having in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise non-thickening, noninterference fillers having a mean size of less than 15.0 ⁇ and an oil absorption capacity Wp of at least 40 ml/100 g.
  • their oil absorption capacity Wp is at least 50 ml/100 g.
  • the mean size of these particles is less than 15.0 ⁇ and more particularly ranges from 3 to 10 ⁇ .
  • the compositions comprise said fillers in an amount of from 0.1 % to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight in the composition.
  • the non-thickening, non-interference fillers according to the invention are colorless or white solid particles of any form, which are in a form that is insoluble and dispersed in the medium of the composition. They may be of lamellar, globular, spherical or fibrous form or of any other form intermediate between these defined forms.
  • the fillers may be coated with a hydrophobic treatment agent.
  • the hydrophobic treatment agent may be chosen from fatty acids, for instance stearic acid; metal soaps, for instance aluminum dimyristate, the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate; amino acids; N-acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin, isopropyl triisostearyl titanate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the N-acylamino acids may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
  • the salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
  • the amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
  • alkyl mentioned in the compounds cited previously especially denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • non-thickening, non-interference fillers in accordance with the invention, mention may be made of:
  • silica powders such as the porous silica microspheres sold under the name Silica Beads SB-700 by the company Myoshi (mean size 4.6 ⁇ and oil absorption capacity Wp: 133 ml/100 g); Sunsphere® H51 (mean size 5.1 ⁇ and oil absorption capacity Wp: 133 ml/100 g), Sunsphere® H33 (mean size 2.9 ⁇ and oil absorption capacity Wp: 370 ml/100 g) by the company Asahi Glass;
  • PMMA polymethyl methacrylate
  • Covabead® LH85 mean size 7.5 ⁇ and oil absorption capacity Wp: 123 ml/100 g
  • Techpolymer MBP-8 mean size 7.5 ⁇ and oil absorption capacity Wp: 123 ml/100 g
  • polyurethane powders in particular powders of crosslinked polyurethane comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyllactone. It may in particular be a hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyllactone polymer.
  • Such particles are in particular commercially available, for example, under the name Plastic Powder D-400 ® (mean size 12.6 ⁇ and oil absorption capacity Wp: 55 ml/100 g) by the company Toshiki;
  • organopolysiloxane elastomer powders coated with silicone resin, in particular with silsesquioxane resin such as the products sold under the name KSP-100® (mean size 4.3 ⁇ and oil absorption capacity Wp: 146.5 ml/100 g, KSP-300® (mean size 6 ⁇ and oil absorption capacity Wp: 1 19 ml/100 g, by the company Shin Etsu, (INCI name: Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer);
  • nylon 12 powders in particular nylon 12 powders; such as the nylon 12 powders sold under the name Orgasol® 2002 (mean size 9 ⁇ and oil absorption capacity Wp: 1 1 1 ml/100 g) by the company Arkema; - particles of N-(Cs-C22 acylated) amino acids; the amino acid can, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, preferably lysine.
  • lauroyllysine powder such as the product sold under the name Amihope LL® (mean size 1 1 .7 ⁇ and oil absorption capacity Wp: 87 ml/100 g) by the company Ajinomoto; - calcium carbonate particles, such as those sold under the name Socal 90A® (mean size 3.7 ⁇ and oil absorption capacity Wp: 130.1 ml/100 g) by the company Solvay;
  • magnesium carbonate particles such as those sold under the name Tipo Carbomag EL® (mean size 6.9 ⁇ and oil absorption capacity Wp: 214.9 ml/100 g) by the company Buschle & Lepper;
  • barium sulfate particles such as those sold under the name Barium Sulfate BA125® (mean size 1 .5 ⁇ and oil absorption capacity Wp: 46.3 ml/100 g) by the company Spectrum;
  • talc particles such as those sold under the name Luzenac Pharma UM® (mean size 2.7 ⁇ and oil absorption capacity Wp: 100.8 ml/100 g) by the company World Minerals (Imerys);
  • - kaolin particles such as those sold under the name Coslin C100® (mean size 1 .6 ⁇ and oil absorption capacity Wp: 134.8 ml/100 g) by the company BASF; - boron nitride particles, for example those sold under the name PUHP 3008® (mean size 5.4 ⁇ and oil absorption capacity Wp: 95 ml/100 g) by the company Saint Gobain Ceramics; Softouch BN Powder CC6058® (mean size 9 ⁇ and oil absorption capacity Wp: 99.1 ml/100 g) by the company Momentive Performance Materials; Boron Nitride SHP3® (mean size 6.7 ⁇ and oil absorption capacity Wp: 104.3 ml/100 g) by the company Mizushima Ferroalloy;
  • the non-thickening, non-interference particles in accordance with the invention will be chosen from:
  • PMMA polymethyl methacrylate
  • silica powders such as silica microspheres; and mixtures thereof.
  • compositions comprise at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer especially as detailed below.
  • This type of polymer is particularly advantageous insofar as it makes it possible to significantly increase the persistence of the satiny effect over time.
  • polymer means a compound corresponding to the repetition of one or more units (these units resulting from compounds known as monomers). This or these unit(s) are repeated at least twice and preferably at least three times.
  • hydrophobic film-forming polymer is intended to denote a film-forming polymer that has no affinity for water and, in this respect, does not lend itself to a formulation in the form of a solute in an aqueous medium.
  • hydrophobic polymer is intended to mean a polymer having a solubility in water at 25°C of less than 1 % by weight.
  • film-forming polymer means a polymer that is capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film on a support, especially on keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive film, and better still a film of which the cohesion and mechanical properties are such that said film may be isolable and manipulable in isolation, for example when said film is prepared by pouring onto a non-stick surface, for instance a Teflon-coated or silicone-coated surface.
  • the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is a polymer chosen from the group comprising film-forming polymers that are soluble in an organic solvent medium, in particular liposoluble polymers; this means that the polymer is soluble or miscible in the organic medium and will form a single homogeneous phase when it is incorporated into the medium.
  • hydrophobic film-forming polymer mention may in particular be made of
  • a composition according to the invention comprises from 0.5% to 20% by weight, more preferentially from 2% to 15% by weight, more particularly from 5% to 10% by weight of hydrophobic film-forming polymer(s), relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • silicone resins More generally, the term "resin” means a compound of which the structure is three- dimensional. "Silicone resins” are also referred to as “siloxane resins”. Thus, for the purposes of the present invention, a polydimethylsiloxane is not a silicone resin.
  • silicone resins also known as siloxane resins
  • MDTQ silicone resins
  • the letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula R1 R2R3SiOi/2, the silicon atom being bonded to only one oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
  • the letter D means a difunctional unit RI R2S1O2/2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.
  • T represents a Trifunctional unit of formula R1S1O3/2.
  • R represents a hydrocarbon-based radical (especially alkyl) containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group.
  • the letter "Q" means a tetrafunctional unit SiO 4 /2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four oxygen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.
  • silicone resins with different properties may be obtained from these different units, the properties of these polymers varying as a function of the type of monomer (or unit), the nature and number of the radical R, the length of the polymer chain, the degree of branching and the size of the side chains.
  • silicone resins that may be used in the compositions according to the invention use may be made, for example, of silicone resins of MQ type, of T type or of MQT type. MQ resins
  • silicone resins of MQ type mention may be made of the alkyl siloxysilicates of formula [(R1 )3SiOi/2] x (SiO 4 /2) y (units MQ) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group R1 represents a radical as defined previously, and is preferably an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a hydroxyl group, preferably a methyl group.
  • silicone resins comprising MQ siloxysilicate units
  • phenylalkylsiloxysilicate resins such as phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate (Silshine 151 sold by the company General Electric).
  • the preparation of such resins is described especially in patent US 5 817 302.
  • silicone resins of type T examples include the polysilsesquioxanes of formula (RSiO3/2)x (units T) in which x is greater than 100 and such that the group R is an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, said polysilsesquioxanes also possibly comprising Si-OH end groups.
  • Polymethylsilsesquioxane resins that may preferably be used are those in which R represents a methyl group, for instance those sold:
  • Resin MK® such as Belsil PMS MK®: polymer comprising CH3S1O3/2 repeating units (units T), which may also comprise up to 1 % by weight of (CH3)2SiO22 units (units D) and having an average molecular weight of about 10 000 g/mol, or
  • MQT resins Resins comprising MQT units that are especially known are those mentioned in US 5 1 10 890.
  • MQT-propyl resins are MQT-propyl (also known as MQTpr) resins.
  • MQTpr MQT-propyl
  • Such resins that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are especially the resins described and prepared in application WO 2005/075 542.
  • the MQ-T-propyl resin preferably comprises the following units:
  • R1 , R2 and R3 independently representing a hydrocarbon-based radical (especially alkyl) containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group and preferably an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms or a phenyl group,
  • the siloxane resin comprises the following units:
  • R1 and R3 independently representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, R1 preferably being a methyl group and R3 preferably being a propyl group,
  • - d being between 0.05 and 0.6, preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 or alternatively between 0.2 and 0.55,
  • siloxane resins that may be used according to the invention may be obtained via a process comprising the reaction of:
  • R1 representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group
  • T-propyl resin comprising at least 80 mol% of units (R3SiO 3 /2) c ;
  • R3 representing an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, an aryl group, a carbinol group or an amino group
  • the weight ratio A/B is between 95/5 and 15/85 and preferably the weight ratio A/B is 30/70.
  • the weight ratio A/B is between 95/5 and 15/85.
  • the ratio A/B is less than or equal to 70/30.
  • the silicone resin is chosen from resins of MQ type, chosen especially from (i) alkyl siloxysilicates, which may be trimethyl siloxysilicates, of formula [Rl 3SiOi/2] x (SiO 4 /2) y , in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, and such that the group R1 represents a hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, a phenyl group, a phenylalkyl group or a hydroxyl group, and preferably is an alkyl group containing from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group, and (ii) phenylalkyl siloxysilicate resins, such as phenylpropyldimethyl siloxysilicate.
  • alkyl siloxysilicates which may be trimethyl siloxysilicates, of formula [Rl 3SiOi/2] x (SiO 4 /2)
  • a composition according to the invention comprises, as hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one trimethyl siloxysilicate resin, such as those sold under the reference SR1000® by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by the company Wacker, or under the name KF-7312®J by the company Shin-Etsu or DC749® or DC593® by the company Dow Corning.
  • at least one trimethyl siloxysilicate resin such as those sold under the reference SR1000® by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by the company Wacker, or under the name KF-7312®J by the company Shin-Etsu or DC749® or DC593® by the company Dow Corning.
  • silsesquioxane resins which can be used in the compositions in accordance with the invention, of the alkyl silsesquioxane resins which are silsesquioxane homopolymers and/or copolymers having an average siloxane unit of formula Ri n SiO( 4-n )/2, where each Ri independently denotes a hydrogen atom or a C1-C10 alkyl group, where more than 80 mol% of the Ri radicals represent a C3-C10 alkyl group, and n is a number from 1 .0 to 1 .4, and more particularly use will be made of a silsesquioxane copolymer in which more than 60 mol% comprises R1S1O3/2 units in which Ri has the definition indicated above.
  • the silsesquioxane resin is chosen so that Ri is a C1-C10 alkyl group, preferably a Ci-C 4 alkyl group and more particularly a propyl group.
  • Ri is a C1-C10 alkyl group, preferably a Ci-C 4 alkyl group and more particularly a propyl group.
  • Use will more particularly be made of a polypropylsilsesquioxane or t-propyl silsesquioxane resin (INCI name: Polypropylsilsesquioxane (and) Isododecane) such as the product sold under the trade name Dow Corning® 670 Fluid by the company Dow Corning.
  • the hydrophobic film-forming polymer may be a block ethylenic copolymer, containing at least one first block with a glass transition temperature (Tg) of greater than or equal to 40°C and being totally or partly derived from one or more first monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of greater than or equal to 40°C, and at least one second block with a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20°C and being derived totally or partly from one or more second monomers, which are such that the homopolymer prepared from these monomers has a glass transition temperature of less than or equal to 20°C, said first block and said second block being connected together via a random intermediate segment comprising at least one of said first constituent monomers of the first block and at least one of said second constituent monomers of the second block, and said block copolymer having a polydispersity index I of greater than 2.
  • Tg glass transition temperature
  • Mexomere PAS® acrylic acid/isobutyl acrylate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer 50% diluted in isododecane
  • the block ethylenic copolymer may in particular be a diblock, triblock, multiblock, radial or star-shaped copolymer, or blends thereof, as described in application US- A-2002/005562 and in patent US-A-5 221 534.
  • the copolymer may contain at least one block of which the glass transition temperature is preferably less than 20°C, preferably less than or equal to 0°C, preferably less than or equal to -20°C and more preferably less than or equal to -40°C.
  • the glass transition temperature of said block may be between -150°C and 20°C and in particular between -100°C and 0°C.
  • the copolymer is amorphous, formed by polymerization of an olefin.
  • the olefin may especially be an elastomeric ethylenically unsaturated monomer.
  • olefins examples include ethylenic carbide monomers, especially containing one or two ethylenic unsaturations and containing from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethylene, propylene, butadiene, isoprene or pentadiene.
  • the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is an amorphous block copolymer of styrene and olefin.
  • Block copolymers comprising at least one styrene block and at least one block comprising units chosen from butadiene, ethylene, propylene, butylene and isoprene or a mixture thereof are especially preferred.
  • the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is hydrogenated to reduce the residual ethylenic unsaturations after the polymerization of the monomers.
  • the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is an optionally hydrogenated copolymer, containing styrene blocks and ethylene/C3-C 4 alkylene blocks.
  • Diblock copolymers which are preferably hydrogenated, that may be mentioned include styrene-ethylene/propylene copolymers, styrene-ethylene/butadiene copolymers and styrene-ethylene/butylene copolymers.
  • Diblock polymers are especially sold under the name Kraton® G1701 E by the company Kraton Polymers.
  • Triblock copolymers which are preferably hydrogenated, that may be mentioned include styrene-ethylene/propylene-styrene copolymers, styrene- ethylene/butadiene-styrene copolymers, styrene-ethylene/butylene-styrene copolymers, styrene-isoprene-styrene copolymers and styrene-butadiene-styrene copolymers.
  • Triblock polymers are especially sold under the names Kraton® G1650, Kraton® G1652, Kraton® D1 101 , Kraton® D1 102, Kraton® D1 160 by the company Kraton Polymers.
  • the hydrocarbon-based block copolymer is a styrene-ethylene/butylene-styrene triblock copolymer.
  • a mixture of a styrene-butylene/ethylene-styrene triblock copolymer and of a styrene-ethylene/butylene diblock copolymer especially the products sold under the name Kraton® G1657M by the company Kraton Polymers.
  • a mixture of hydrogenated styrene-butylene/ethylene-styrene triblock copolymer and of ethylene-propylene-styrene hydrogenated star polymer may also be used, such a mixture especially being in isododecane.
  • Such mixtures are sold, for example, by the company Penreco under the trade names Versagel ® M5960 and Versagel ® M5670.
  • Vinyl polymer comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit
  • the hydrophobic film-forming polymer may also be chosen from vinyl polymers comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit.
  • the vinyl polymer(s) especially have a backbone and at least one side chain, which comprises a carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit having a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure.
  • Vinyl polymers comprising at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer unit as described in applications WO 03/045 337 and EP 963 751 by the company Dow Corning may be used in particular.
  • carbosiloxane dendrimer structure represents a molecular structure containing branched groups of high molecular weights, said structure having high regularity in the radial direction starting from the bond to the backbone.
  • Such carbosiloxane dendrimer structures are described in the form of a highly branched siloxane-silylalkylene copolymer in laid-open Japanese patent application Kokai 9-171 154.
  • a vinyl polymer containing at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit has a molecular side chain containing a carbosiloxane dendrimer structure, and may be derived from the polymerization of:
  • a' is an integer from 0 to 3;
  • radical-polymerizable organic group contained in component (A) is chosen from:
  • R 4 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • R 5 represents an alkylene group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms
  • R 6 represents a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group
  • R 7 represents an alkyl group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms
  • R 8 represents an alkylene group containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms
  • b is an integer from 0 to 4
  • c is 0 or 1 , such that if c is 0,
  • the monomer of vinyl type that is component (A) in the vinyl polymer is a monomer of vinyl type that contains a radical-polymerizable vinyl group.
  • this monomer of vinyl type methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, n-propyl methacrylate, isopropyl methacrylate or a methacrylate of an analogous lower alkyl; glycidyl methacrylate; butyl methacrylate, butyl acrylate, n-butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, tert-butyl acrylate, tert-butyl methacrylate, n-hexyl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, octyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl acrylate, stearyl methacrylate or an analogous higher methacrylate; vinyl acetate, vinyl propionate or a vinyl ester of an analogous lower fatty acid;
  • Multifunctional monomers of vinyl type can also be used.
  • trimethylolpropane trimethacrylate pentaerythrityl trimethacrylate, ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, tetraethylene glycol dimethacrylate, polyethylene glycol dimethacrylate, 1 ,4- butanediol dimethacrylate, 1 ,6-hexanediol dimethacrylate, neopentyl glycol dimethacrylate, trimethylolpropane trioxyethylmethacrylate, tris(2- hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate dimethacrylate, tris(2-hydroxyethyl)isocyanurate trimethacrylate, polydimethylsiloxane capped with styryl groups possessing divinylbenzene groups on both ends, or analogous silicone compounds containing unsaturated groups.
  • the number-average molecular weight of the vinyl polymer which contains a carbosiloxane dendrimer may be chosen within the range between 3000 g/mol and 2 000 000 g/mol and preferably between 5000 g/mol and 800 000 g/mol. It may be a liquid, a gum, a paste, a solid, a powder or any other form.
  • the preferred forms are solutions formed by dilution of a dispersion or of a powder in solvents such as a silicone oil or an organic oil.
  • a vinyl polymer contained in the dispersion or the solution may have a concentration in the range between 0.1 % and 95% by weight and preferably between 5% and 70% by weight. However, to facilitate the handling and the preparation of the mixture, the range should preferably be between 10% and 60% by weight.
  • a vinyl polymer that is suitable for use in the invention may be one of the polymers described in the examples of application EP 0 963 751 .
  • a vinyl polymer grafted with a carbosiloxane dendrimer may be the product of polymerization of:
  • a vinyl polymer bearing at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit may comprise a tris[tri(trimethylsiloxy)silylethyldimethylsiloxy]silylpropyl carbosiloxane dendrimer- based u
  • a vinyl polymer may also comprise at least one fluorinated organic group.
  • a fluorinated vinyl polymer can be one of the polymers described in the examples of application WO 03/045337.
  • a vinyl polymer grafted in the sense of the present invention may be conveyed in an oil or a mixture of oils, which are preferably volatile, chosen in particular from silicone oils and hydrocarbon-based oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • a silicone oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be cyclopentasiloxane.
  • a hydrocarbon-based oil that is suitable for use in the invention may be isododecane.
  • Vinyl polymers grafted with at least one carbosiloxane dendrimer-based unit that may be particularly suitable for use in the present invention are the polymers sold under the names TIB 4-100®, TIB 4-101®, TIB 4-120®, TIB 4-130®, TIB 4-200®, FA 4002 ID® (TIB 4-202®), TIB 4-220 and FA 4001 CM® (TIB 4-230®) by the company Dow Corning.
  • the polymers sold under the names FA 4002 ID® (TIB 4- 202) and FA 4001 CM® (TIB 4-230®) by the company Dow Corning will preferably be used.
  • the vinyl polymer grafted with at least one carbosilane dendrimer-based unit that can be used in a composition of the invention is an acrylate/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer having the INCI name: Acrylates /Polytrimethyl Siloxymethacrylate copolymer, in particular that sold in isododecane, under the name Dow Corning FA 4002 ID® silicone acrylate by the company Dow Corning.
  • a composition used according to the invention may comprise, as hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups.
  • copolymer comprising carboxylate groups and polydimethylsiloxane groups means a copolymer obtained from (a) one or more carboxylic (acid or ester) monomers, and (b) one or more polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) chains.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxane
  • carboxylic monomer means both carboxylic acid monomers and carboxylic acid ester monomers.
  • the monomer (a) may be chosen, for example, from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, fumaric acid, itaconic acid, crotonic acid, esters thereof and mixtures of these monomers. Mention may be made, as esters, of the following monomers: acrylate, methacrylate, maleate, fumarate, itaconate and/or crotonate.
  • the monomers in ester form are more particularly chosen from linear or branched, preferably C1-C24 and better still C1-C22 alkyl acrylates and methacrylates, the alkyl radical preferably being chosen from methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl and 2-ethylhexyl radicals, and mixtures thereof.
  • the copolymer comprises as carboxylate groups at least one group chosen from acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, and methyl, ethyl, stearyl, butyl or 2-ethylhexyl acrylate or methacrylate, and mixtures thereof.
  • polydimethylsiloxanes also known as organopolysiloxanes and abbreviated as PDMS
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • the PDMS chains which can be used to obtain the copolymer used according to the invention comprise at least one radically polymerizable group, preferably located on at least one of the ends of the chain, that is to say that the PDMS can, for example, have a radically polymerizable group on the two ends of the chain or have a radically polymerizable group on one end of the chain and a trimethylsilyl end group on the other end of the chain.
  • copolymers used in the composition of the invention are generally obtained according to the usual methods of polymerization and grafting, for example by radical polymerization (A) of a PDMS comprising at least one radically polymerizable group (for example on one of the ends of the chain or on both ends) and (B) of at least one carboxylic monomer, as described, for example, in the documents US-A-5 061 481 and US-A-5 219 560.
  • the copolymers obtained generally have a molecular weight ranging from approximately 3000 g/mol to 200 000 g/mol and preferably from approximately 5000 g/mol to 100 000 g/mol.
  • the copolymer used in the composition of the invention can be provided as is or in dispersed form in a solvent, such as lower alcohols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, for instance isopropyl alcohol, or oils, for instance volatile silicone oils (for example cyclopentasiloxane).
  • a solvent such as lower alcohols comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, for instance isopropyl alcohol, or oils, for instance volatile silicone oils (for example cyclopentasiloxane).
  • KP-561® CTFA name: acrylates/dimethicone
  • KP-541® in which the copolymer is dispersed at 60% by weight in isopropyl alcohol
  • KP-545® in which the copolymer is dispersed at 30% in cyclopentasiloxane (CTFA name: acrylates/
  • KP561® is preferably used; this copolymer is not dispersed in a solvent, but is in waxy form, its melting point being about 30°C. Mention may also be made of the dimethylpolysiloxane-grafted copolymer of acrylic acid, dissolved in isododecane, sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the name KP-550®.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises, as hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one trimethyl siloxysilicate resin, such as those sold under the reference SR1000® by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by the company Wacker, or under the name KF-7312®J by the company Shin-Etsu or DC749® or DC593® by the company Dow Corning.
  • at least one trimethyl siloxysilicate resin such as those sold under the reference SR1000® by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by the company Wacker, or under the name KF-7312®J by the company Shin-Etsu or DC749® or DC593® by the company Dow Corning.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises, as hydrophobic film-forming polymer, at least one trimethyl siloxysilicate resin, such as those sold under the reference SR1000® by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by the company Wacker, or under the name KF-7312®J by the company Shin-Etsu or DC749® or DC593® by the company Dow Corning.
  • at least one trimethyl siloxysilicate resin such as those sold under the reference SR1000® by the company General Electric, under the reference TMS 803® by the company Wacker, or under the name KF-7312®J by the company Shin-Etsu or DC749® or DC593® by the company Dow Corning.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one emulsifying silicone elastomer in accordance with the invention.
  • compositions of the invention are preferably present in the compositions of the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane that may be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to silicon and of a polyoxyalkylene containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (A1 ) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B1 ) of polyoxyalkylene containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence (C1 ) of a platinum catalyst, as described, for example, in patents US 5 236 986 and US 5 412 004.
  • the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyoxyalkylene (in particular polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene) and of trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxane, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyoxyalkylene in particular polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene
  • trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxane in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • the organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A1 ) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lau
  • Compound (A1 ) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers, and trimethylsiloxy- terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane/laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.
  • Compound (C1 ) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is in particular chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid- alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomers may be formed from divinyl compounds, in particular polyoxyalkylenes containing at least two vinyl groups, reacting with Si-H bonds of a polysiloxane.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated silicone elastomer according to the invention is preferably mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil to form a gel.
  • the polyoxyalkylenated elastomer may be in the form of non-spherical particles.
  • KSG-210® INCI name Dimethicone and Dimethicone/PEG-10/15-Crosspolymer
  • KSG-310® INCI name PEG-15/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Mineral oil
  • KSG-320® INCI name PEG-15/Lauryl Dimethicone Crosspolymer and Isododecane
  • the polyglycerolated silicone elastomer is an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane that may be obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one hydrogen bonded to the silicon and of polyglycerolated compounds having ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • the elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane is obtained by a crosslinking addition reaction (A) of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogens each bonded to a silicon, and (B) of glycerolated compounds containing at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups, in particular in the presence (C) of a platinum catalyst.
  • the organopolysiloxane may be obtained by reaction of a dimethylvinylsiloxy-terminated polyglycerolated compound and of trimethylsiloxy- terminated methylhydropolysiloxane, in the presence of a platinum catalyst.
  • Compound (A) is the base reagent for the formation of elastomeric organopolysiloxane, and the crosslinking is performed by addition reaction of compound (A) with compound (B) in the presence of catalyst (C).
  • Compound (A) is in particular an organopolysiloxane containing at least two hydrogen atoms bonded to different silicon atoms in each molecule.
  • Compound (A) may have any molecular structure, especially a linear-chain or branched-chain structure or a cyclic structure.
  • Compound (A) may have a viscosity at 25°C ranging from 1 to 50 000 centistokes, especially so as to be readily miscible with compound (B).
  • the organic groups bonded to the silicon atoms of compound (A) may be alkyl groups containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl (or lauryl), myristyl, cetyl or stearyl; substituted alkyl groups such as 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl; aryl groups such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl; substituted aryl groups such as phenylethyl; and substituted monovalent hydrocarbon-based groups such as an epoxy group, a carboxylate ester group or a mercapto group.
  • said organic group is chosen from methyl, phen
  • Compound (A) may thus be chosen from trimethylsiloxy-terminated methylhydropolysiloxanes, trimethylsiloxy-terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane copolymers, dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane cyclic copolymers, and trimethylsiloxy- terminated dimethylsiloxane/methylhydrosiloxane/laurylmethylsiloxane copolymers.
  • Compound (B) may be a polyglycerolated compound corresponding to the formula ( ⁇ ') below:
  • n is an integer ranging from 2 to 200, preferably ranging from 2 to 100, preferably ranging from 2 to 50, preferably n ranging from 2 to 20, preferably ranging from 2 to 10 and preferentially ranging from 2 to 5, and in particular n is equal to 3;
  • Gly denotes: -CH 2 -CH(OH)-CH 2 -O- or -CH 2 -CH(CH 2 OH)-O-
  • the sum of the number of ethylenic groups per molecule of compound (B) and of the number of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms per molecule of compound (A) is at least 4. It is advantageous for compound (A) to be added in an amount such that the molecular ratio between the total amount of hydrogen atoms bonded to silicon atoms in compound (A) and the total amount of all the ethylenically unsaturated groups in compound (B) is within the range from 1/1 to 20/1 .
  • Compound (C) is the catalyst for the crosslinking reaction, and is especially chloroplatinic acid, chloroplatinic acid-olefin complexes, chloroplatinic acid- alkenylsiloxane complexes, chloroplatinic acid-diketone complexes, platinum black and platinum on a support.
  • Catalyst (C) is preferably added in an amount of from 0.1 to 1000 parts by weight and better still from 1 to 100 parts by weight, as clean platinum metal, per 1000 parts by weight of the total amount of compounds (A) and (B).
  • the polyglycerolated silicone elastomer according to the invention is generally mixed with at least one hydrocarbon-based oil and/or one silicone oil to form a gel.
  • the polyglycerolated elastomer is often in the form of non-spherical particles.
  • KSG-710® INCI name: Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer and Dimethicone
  • KSG-810® INCI name: Mineral oil and Lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer
  • KSG-820® INCI name: Isododecane and Lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer;
  • KSG-830® INCI name: Triethylhexanoin and lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer;
  • KSG-840® INCI name: Squalane and Lauryl Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer.
  • a polyglycerolated silicone elastomer in particular having the INCI name Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment.
  • pigments means white or colored, mineral or organic particles, which are insoluble in an aqueous medium, and which are intended to produce a color and/or an opacifying effect and/or to produce an optical effect of the resulting composition and/or deposit. These pigments may be white or colored, and mineral and/or organic.
  • the composition comprises at least 5% by weight of pigments, more preferentially from 5% to 40% by weight of pigments, in particular from 10% to 30% by weight and preferably from 10% to 25% by weight of pigments, relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.
  • mineral pigment means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopaedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments.
  • mineral pigments that are useful in the present invention, mention may be made of zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, and metal powders, for instance aluminum powder or copper powder.
  • the following mineral pigments may also be used: Ta2Os, T13O5, T12O3, TiO, ZrO2 as a mixture with T1O2, ZrO2, Nb2Os, CeO2, ZnS.
  • the size of the pigment that is useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and may range up to 10 ⁇ , preferably from 200 nm to 5 ⁇ and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 ⁇ .
  • the pigments have a size characterized by a D[50] greater than 100 nm and possibly ranging up to 10 ⁇ , preferably from 200 nm to 5 ⁇ and more preferentially from 300 nm to 1 ⁇ .
  • the sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 3000 particle size analyzer from Malvern, which makes it possible to determine the particle size distribution of all of the particles over a wide range which may extend from 0.01 ⁇ to 1000 ⁇ .
  • the data are processed on the basis of the standard Mie scattering theory. This theory is the most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multimicron; it allows an "effective" particle diameter to be determined. This theory is especially described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • D[50] represents the maximum size that 50% by volume of the particles have.
  • the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide. Examples that may be mentioned more particularly include titanium dioxide and iron oxide coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, sold, for example, under the reference NAI by the company Miyoshi Kasei.
  • mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may also be made of nacres.
  • nacres should be understood as meaning colored particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a color effect via optical interference.
  • the nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles, at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic colorants.
  • nacres examples include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
  • natural mica covered with titanium oxide examples include natural mica covered with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride.
  • the nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery color or glint.
  • nacres that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made of gold-colored nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 212G® (Timica), Gold 222C® (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X® (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold in particular by the company Merck under the names Bronze fine (17384)® (Colorona) and Bronze (17353)® (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the names Orange 363C® (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101® (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449)® (Microna); the brown-tinted nacres sold in particular by the company Engelhard under the names Nu-antique copper 340XB® (Cloisonne
  • pigments that may be used according to the invention, mention may also be made of those having an optical effect different from a simple conventional coloring effect, that is to say a unified and stabilized effect such as produced by conventional colorants, for instance monochromatic pigments.
  • stabilized means lacking an effect of variability of the color as a function of the angle of observation or alternatively in response to a temperature change.
  • this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic glint, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibers, especially interference fibers. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined in order simultaneously to afford two effects, or even a novel effect in accordance with the invention.
  • the particles with a metallic glint that may be used in the invention are in particular chosen from:
  • - particles comprising a monomaterial or multimaterial organic or mineral substrate, at least partially coated with at least one layer with a metallic glint comprising at least one metal and/or at least one metal derivative, and
  • metals that may be present in said particles, mention may for example be made of Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge, Te and Se, and mixtures or alloys thereof.
  • Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr and mixtures or alloys thereof are preferred metals.
  • metal derivatives denotes compounds derived from metals, especially oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulfides. Illustrations of these particles that may be mentioned include aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names Starbrite 1200 EAC® by the company Silberline and Metalure® by the company Eckart.
  • metal powders of copper or of alloy mixtures such as the references 2844® sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments, for instance aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the names Rotosafe 700® from the company Eckart, silica-coated aluminum particles sold under the name Visionaire Bright Silver® from the company Eckart, and metal alloy particles, for instance the silica-coated bronze (alloy of copper and zinc) powders sold under the name Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from the company Eckart.
  • They may also be particles comprising a glass substrate, such as those sold by the company Nippon Sheet Glass under the name Microglass Metashine®.
  • the goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen, for example, from interference multilayer structures and liquid-crystal coloring agents.
  • symmetrical multilayer interference structures that may be used in the compositions prepared in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: AI/SiO2/AI/SiO2/AI, pigments having this structure being sold by the company DuPont de Nemours; Cr/MgF2/AI/MgF2/Cr, pigments having this structure being sold under the name Chromaflair® by the company Flex; MoS2/SiO2/AI/SiO2/MoS 2 ; Fe 2 O 3 SiO2 AI/SiO2 Fe2O3, and Fe2O3 SiO2 Fe2O3 SiO2 Fe2O3, pigments having these structures being sold under the name Sicopearl® by the company BASF; MoS2/SiO2/mica-oxide/SiO2/MoS2; Fe2O 3 /SiO2/mica-oxide/SiO2/Fe2O 3 ; TiO 2 /SiO 2 /TiO2 and TiO2/AI 2 O3/TiO 2
  • these pigments may be the pigments of silica/titanium oxide/tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic® by the company Merck, the pigments of silica/brown iron oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Indian Summer® by the company Merck and the pigments of silica/titanium oxide/mica/tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Caribbean Blue® by the company Merck. Mention may also be made of the Infinite Colors® pigments from the company Shiseido. Depending on the thickness and the nature of the various coats, different effects are obtained.
  • the color changes from greenish gold to reddish gray for S1O2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to gold for S1O2 layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for S1O2 layers of 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for S1O2 layers of 430 to 440 nm.
  • pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure mention may be made of those sold by the company 3M under the name Color Glitter®.
  • liquid-crystal goniochromatic particles examples include those sold by the company Chenix and also the product sold under the name Helicone® HC by the company Wacker.
  • Hydrophobic coated pigments Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound and especially as detailed below.
  • This type of pigment is particularly advantageous insofar as it may be considered in a large amount together with a large amount of water. What is more, insofar as they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show a predominant affinity for the oily gelled phase, which can then convey them.
  • compositions according to the invention may in parallel contain uncoated pigments.
  • the coating may also comprise at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.
  • the "coating" of a pigment according to the invention generally denotes the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surface agent, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.
  • the surface-treated pigments may be prepared according to surface treatment techniques of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical or mechanical nature that are well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products may also be used.
  • the surface agent may be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by evaporation of solvent, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.
  • the surface treatment is constituted of a coating of the pigments.
  • the coating may represent from 0.1 % to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.
  • the coating may be performed, for example, by adsorption of a liquid surface agent onto the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and of said surface agent, optionally with heating, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.
  • the coating may be performed, for example, by chemical reaction of a surface agent with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surface agent and the particles. This method is especially described in patent US 4 578 266.
  • the chemical surface treatment may consist in diluting the surface agent in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture and then slowly evaporating off the volatile solvent, so that the surface agent is deposited at the surface of the pigments.
  • Lipophilic or hydrophobic treatment agent When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, it is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.
  • the pigments may be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surface agents; fluoro surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N- acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
  • silicone surface agents fluoro surface agents; fluorosilicone surface agents; metal soaps; N- acylamino acids or salts thereof; lecithin and derivatives thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and mixtures thereof.
  • the pigments may be totally or partially surface-treated with a compound of silicone nature.
  • the silicone surface agents may be chosen from organopolysiloxanes, silane derivatives, silicone-acrylate copolymers, silicone resins, and mixtures thereof.
  • organo-polysiloxane compound is intended to mean a compound having a structure comprising an alternance of silicone atoms and oxygen atoms and comprising organic radicals linked to silicon atoms.
  • Non-elastomeric organopolysiloxanes that may especially be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes, polymethylhydrogenosiloxanes and polyalkoxydimethylsiloxanes.
  • the alkoxy group may be represented by the radical R-O- such that R represents methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl or octyl, 2-phenylethyl, 2-phenylpropyl or 3,3,3- trifluoropropyl radicals, aryl radicals such as phenyl, tolyl or xylyl, or substituted aryl radicals such as phenylethyl.
  • One method for surface-treating pigments with a polymethylhydrogenosiloxane consists in dispersing the pigments in an organic solvent and then in adding the silicone compound. On heating the mixture, covalent bonds are created between the silicone compound and the surface of the pigment.
  • the silicone surface agent may be a non- elastomeric organopolysiloxane, especially chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes.
  • Silanes bearing alkoxy functionality are especially described by Witucki in "A silane primer, Chemistry and applications of alkoxy silanes, Journal of Coatings Technology, 65, 822, pages 57-60, 1993".
  • Alkoxysilanes such as the alkyltriethoxysilanes and the alkyltrimethoxysilanes sold under the references Silquest A-137® (OSI Specialities) and Prosil 9202® (PCR) may be used for coating the pigments.
  • Silquest A-137® OSI Specialities
  • Prosil 9202® PCR
  • alkylpolysiloxanes bearing a reactive end group such as alkoxy, hydroxyl, halogen, amino or imino is described in application JP H07-196946. They are also suitable for treating the pigments.
  • Silicone-acrylate polymers are also suitable for treating the pigments.
  • Grafted silicone-acrylic polymers having a silicone backbone as described in patents US 5 725 882, US 5 209 924, US 4 972 037, US 4 981 903, US 4 981 902 and US 5 468 477 and in patents US 5 219 560 and EP 0 388 582 may be used.
  • silicone-acrylate polymers may be silicone polymers comprising in their structure the unit of formula (I) below:
  • radicals Gi which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C1-C10 alkyl radical or alternatively a phenyl radical; the radicals G2, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C10 alkylene group; G3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer; G 4 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer; m and n are equal to 0 or 1 ; a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; b is an integer that may be between 10 and 350, c is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; with the proviso that one of the parameters a and c is other than 0.
  • the unit of formula (I) above has at least one, and even more preferentially all, of the following characteristics:
  • radicals Gi denote an alkyl radical, preferably the methyl radical
  • radicals G2 represent a divalent C1-C3 radical, preferably a propylene radical
  • - G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid type, preferably acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid;
  • G 4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo)polymerization of at least one monomer of the (Ci-Cio)alkyl (meth)acrylate type, preferably such as isobutyl or methyl (meth)acrylate.
  • silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a connecting chain unit of thiopropylene type, mixed polymer units of the poly(meth)acrylic acid type and of the polymethyl (meth)acrylate type.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • silicone polymers corresponding to formula (I) are especially polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) onto which are grafted, via a connecting chain unit of thiopropylene type, polymer units of the polyisobutyl (meth)acrylate type.
  • PDMS polydimethylsiloxanes
  • Silicone resins The silicone surface agent may be chosen from silicone resins.
  • the term "resin” means a three-dimensional structure.
  • the silicone resins may be soluble or swellable in silicone oils. These resins are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers.
  • silicone resins are known under the name "MDTQ", the resin being described as a function of the various siloxane monomer units that it comprises, each of the letters “MDTQ” characterizing a type of unit.
  • the letter M represents the monofunctional unit of formula (CH3)3SiOi 2, the silicon atom being bonded to only one oxygen atom in the polymer comprising this unit.
  • the letter D means a difunctional unit (CH3)2SiO22 in which the silicon atom is bonded to two oxygen atoms.
  • the letter T represents a trifunctional unit of formula (CH3)SiO32.
  • the units M, D and T defined previously, at least one of the methyl groups may be substituted with a group R other than the methyl group, such as a hydrocarbon- based radical (especially alkyl) containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms or a phenyl group, or alternatively a hydroxyl group.
  • the letter Q means a tetrafunctional unit SiO 4 /2 in which the silicon atom is bonded to four hydrogen atoms, which are themselves bonded to the rest of the polymer.
  • silicone resins examples include:
  • siloxysilicates which may be trimethyl siloxysilicates of formula [(CH3)3XSiXO]xX(SiO 4 /2)y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80;
  • polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted with another group.
  • Resin MK® such as Belsil PMS MK®: polymer comprising CH3S1O3/2 repeating units (T units), which may also comprise up to 1 % by weight of (CH3)2SiO22 units (D units) and having an average molecular weight of about 10 000;
  • Siloxysilicate resins that may be mentioned include trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins, optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are sold under the references SR1000®, E 1 170-002® or SS 4230®, by the company General Electric or under the references TMS 803®, Wacker 803® and 804® by the company Wacker Silicone Corporation. Mention may also be made of trimethyl siloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name KF-7312J® by the company Shin-Etsu or DC 749® and DC 593® by the company Dow Corning.
  • TMS trimethylsiloxysilicate
  • the pigments may be totally or partially surface-treated with a compound of fluoro nature.
  • the fluoro surface agents may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoropolyethers, polytetrafluoropolyethylenes (PTFE), perfluoroalkanes, perfluoroalkyl silazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, and polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups.
  • perfluoroalkyl phosphates perfluoropolyethers
  • PTFE polytetrafluoropolyethylenes
  • perfluoroalkanes perfluoroalkyl silazanes
  • polyhexafluoropropylene oxides polyhexafluoropropylene oxides
  • polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups.
  • perfluoroalkyl radical means an alkyl radical in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced with fluorine atoms.
  • Perfluoropolyethers are especially described in patent application EP 0 486 135, and sold under the trade name Fomblin® by the company Montefluos.
  • Perfluoroalkyl phosphates are in particular described in application JP H05-86984.
  • the perfluoroalkyl diethanolamine phosphates sold by Asahi Glass under the reference AsahiGuard AG530® may be used.
  • linear perfluoroalkanes that may be mentioned are perfluorocycloalkanes, perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes), perfluoropolycycloalkanes, aromatic perfluoro hydrocarbons (perfluoroarenes) and hydrocarbon-based perfluoro organic compounds comprising at least one heteroatom.
  • perfluoroalkanes mention may be made of the linear alkane series such as perfluorooctane, perfluorononane or perfluorodecane.
  • perfluorocycloalkanes and perfluoro(alkylcycloalkanes) mention may be made of perfluorodecalin sold under the name Flutec PP5 GMP® by the company Rhodia, perfluoro(methyldecalin) and perfluoro(C3-Cs alkylcyclohexanes) such as perfluoro(butylcyclohexane).
  • perfluoropolycycloalkanes mention may be made of bicyclo[3.3.1 ]nonane derivatives such as perfluorotrimethylbicyclo[3.3.1]nonane, adamantane derivatives such as perfluorodimethyladamantane, and hydrogenated perfluorophenanthrene derivatives such as tetracosafluorotetradecahydrophenanthrene.
  • perfluoronaphthalene derivatives for instance perfluoronaphthalene and perfluoromethyl-1 -naphthalene.
  • the pigments may be totally or partially surface-treated with a compound of fluorosilicone nature.
  • the fluorosilicone compound may be chosen from perfluoroalkyl dimethicones, perfluoroalkyl silanes and perfluoroalkyl trialkoxysilanes.
  • Perfluoroalkyl silanes that may be mentioned include the products LP-IT® and LP- 4T® sold by Shin-Etsu Silicone.
  • the perfluoroalkyl dimethicones may be represented by the following formula:
  • - R represents a linear or branched divalent alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a divalent methyl, ethyl, propyl or butyl group;
  • Rf represents a perfluoroalkyl radical containing 1 to 9 carbon atoms and preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
  • - m is chosen between 0 and 150 and preferably from 20 to 100;
  • - n is chosen between 1 and 300 and preferably between 1 and 100.
  • pigments treated with a fluorosilicone compound mention may be made of titanium dioxide/fluorosilicone sold under the reference Fluorosil Titanium dioxide 100TA® by the company Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc.
  • Fluorosil Titanium dioxide 100TA® by the company Advanced Dermaceuticals International Inc.
  • the hydrophobic treatment agent may also be chosen from:
  • metal soaps such as aluminum dimyristate and the aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate.
  • Metal soaps that may especially be mentioned include metal soaps of fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and in particular those containing from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the metal of the metal soap may especially be zinc or magnesium.
  • Metal soaps that may be used include zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate and zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof.
  • fatty acids such as lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and palmitic acid;
  • N-acylamino acids or salts thereof which may comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyi, lauroyi, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group;
  • the amino acid may be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.
  • the salts of these compounds may be the aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts.
  • an N-acylamino acid derivative may in particular be a glutamic acid derivative and/or a salt thereof, and more particularly a stearoyl glutamate, for instance aluminum stearoyl glutamate. iv) lecithin and derivatives thereof;
  • ITT isopropyl titanium triisostearate
  • BWBO-I2® Iron oxide CI77499 and isopropyl titanium triisostearate
  • BWYO-I2® isopropyl titanium triisostearate
  • BWRO-I2® isopropyl titanium triisostearate
  • fatty esters in particular jojoba esters
  • ix phospholipids
  • waxes mentioned in the compounds mentioned previously may be those generally used in cosmetics, as defined hereinbelow.
  • They may especially be hydrocarbon-based, silicone and/or fluoro waxes, optionally comprising ester or hydroxyl functions. They may also be of natural or synthetic origin.
  • polar wax means a wax containing chemical compounds comprising at least one polar group.
  • Polar groups are well known to those skilled in the art; they may be, for example, alcohol, ester or carboxylic acid groups.
  • Polyethylene waxes, paraffin waxes, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite and Fischer-Tropsch waxes are not included among polar waxes.
  • the polar waxes have a mean Hansen solubility parameter 5a at 25°C such that 5a > 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 and better still 5a > 1 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 :
  • ⁇ and 5h are, respectively, the polar contributions and contributions of interaction types specific to the Hansen solubility parameters.
  • the parameters ⁇ and 5h are expressed in 1 (J/cm 3 ) 1 2 .
  • a polar wax is especially formed from molecules comprising, besides carbon and hydrogen atoms in their chemical structure, heteroatoms (such as O, N and P).
  • Non-limiting illustrations of these polar waxes include natural polar waxes, such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax and montan wax.
  • natural polar waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, orange wax, lemon wax and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricury wax, cork fiber wax, sugarcane wax, Japan wax, sumac wax and montan wax.
  • the pigments may be coated with at least one compound chosen from silicone surface agents; fluoro surface agents; N- acylamino acids or salts thereof; isopropyl triisostearyl titanate; natural plant or animal waxes; fatty esters; and mixtures thereof.
  • the pigments may be coated with an N-acylamino acid and/or a salt thereof, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and/or a salt thereof, or with a fatty ester, in particular with a jojoba ester.
  • the pigments may be coated with an N-acylamino acid and/or a salt thereof, in particular with a glutamic acid derivative and/or a salt thereof, especially a stearoyl glutamate, for instance aluminum stearoyl glutamate.
  • titanium dioxides coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate use will more particularly be made of titanium dioxides coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, iron oxides coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, and mixtures thereof, for example sold under the reference NAI® by Miyoshi Kasei.
  • compositions may also contain pigments not coated with a lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.
  • These other pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound or uncoated.
  • These pigments may be mineral pigments especially as defined previously.
  • These pigments may also be organic pigments.
  • organic pigment means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's Encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
  • the organic pigment may in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanin, metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane and quinophthalone compounds.
  • the organic pigment(s) may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanin blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100 and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 1 1680, 1 1710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21 100, 21 108, 47000 and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570 and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 1 1725, 15510, 45370 and 71 105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880
  • These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426.
  • These composite pigments may in particular be composed of particles comprising a mineral core at least partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one binder for fixing the organic pigments to the core.
  • the pigment may also be a lake.
  • the term "lake” means insolubilized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
  • the mineral substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed are, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate or calcium aluminum borosilicate and aluminum.
  • D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570), D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).
  • An example of a lake that may be mentioned is the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1 ).
  • these other pigments may be coated with a hydrophilic compound.
  • Said hydrophilic compound for surface-treating a pigment in order to optimize its dispersion in the gelled aqueous phase is more particularly chosen from biological polymers, carbohydrates, polysaccharides, polyacrylates and polyethylene glycol derivatives.
  • biological polymers mention may be made of polymers based on monomers of carbohydrate type.
  • biosaccharide gum chitosans and derivatives thereof, such as butoxy chitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan, carboxybutyl chitosan, chitosan gluconate, chitosan adipate, chitosan glycolate, chitosan lactate, etc.; chitins and derivatives thereof, such as carboxymethyl chitin, chitin glycolate; cellulose and derivatives thereof such as cellulose acetate; microcrystalline cellulose; distarch phosphate; sodium hyaluronate; soluble proteoglycans; galacto- arabinans; glycosaminoglycans; glycogen; sclerotium gum; dextran; starch and derivatives thereof; and mixtures thereof.
  • biosaccharide gum chitosans and derivatives thereof, such as butoxy chitosan, carboxymethyl chitosan, carboxybutyl chitosan, chitosan
  • carbohydrates examples include polyhydroxyaldehydes or polyhydroxy ketones of general formula: C x (H2O) y in which x and y may range from 1 to 1 000 000.
  • the carbohydrates may be monosaccharides, disaccharides or polysaccharides.
  • carbohydrates examples include amylodextrins, beta-glucans, cyclodextrins, modified corn starch, glycogen, hyaluronic acid, hydroxypropylcyclodextrin, lactose, maltitol, guanosine, glyceryl starch, Triticum vulgare starch, trehalose, sucrose and derivatives thereof, raffinose and sodium chondroitin sulfate.
  • C1-C20 Alkylene glycols or C1-C20 alkylene glycol ethers, alone or in combination with tri(Ci-C2o)alkylsilanes, may also be used as surface treatment agents.
  • pigments surface-treated with PEG alkyl ether alkoxysilane for instance pigments treated with PEG-8-methyl ether triethoxysilane sold by the company Kobo under the name SW® pigments.
  • Silicones such as dimethicones bearing hydrophilic groups, also known under the name dimethicone copolyols or alkyl dimethicone copolyols, may also be suitable for use in the invention as surface treatment agents.
  • dimethicones may comprise, as repeating units, C1-C20 alkylene oxides, such as ethylene or propylene oxides.
  • the amount of pigments coated with at least one hydrophilic compound and/or of uncoated pigments is especially conditioned by the intended use of the cosmetic composition under consideration, and the adjustment of this amount obviously falls within the competence of the composition formulator.
  • the composition is a water-in-oil emulsion comprising:
  • At least one nonvolatile oil chosen from liquid organic UV-screening agents, phenylated silicones, and mixtures thereof, more particularly from liquid organic UV- screening agents of the cinnamate type, in particular ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, phenyl trimethicones, and mixtures thereof; and
  • At least one non-thickening, non-interference filler having a mean size of less than 15.0 ⁇ and an oil absorption capacity Wp of at least 40 ml/100 g, chosen from
  • PMMA polymethyl methacrylate
  • At least one water-soluble liquid polyol chosen from glycerol, 1 ,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof;
  • an emulsifying system comprising at least one polyglycerolated silicone elastomer, in particular having the INCI name Dimethicone/Polyglycerin-3 Crosspolymer;
  • the additional fillers which can be used in the composition of the invention can be of organic or inorganic nature and make it possible in particular to confer on it additional properties of improved stability, wear property, coverage and/or mattness.
  • the fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention can be of lamellar, globular, spherical or fibrous forms or of any other form intermediate between these defined forms.
  • the fillers according to the invention may or may not be surface-coated, and in particular they may be surface-treated with silicones, amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance which promotes the dispersion and the compatibility of the filler in the composition.
  • mineral fillers mention may be made of clays, mica, glass or ceramic microcapsules, composites of silica and of titanium dioxide, such as the TSG® series sold by the company Nippon Sheet Glass, or hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface-modified by trimethylsilyl groups.
  • hydrophobic silica aerogels that may be used in the invention, examples that may be mentioned include the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260® (INCI name: Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of about 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit of weight ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g. Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by the company Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201 , Aerogel OGD 201 , Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1 100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
  • organic fillers mention may be made of polyethylene powders, polymeric hollow polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile microspheres, such as 'Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), and synthetic or natural micronized waxes.
  • the composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one lipophilic clay.
  • lipophilic clay is intended to mean any clay that is liposoluble or lipodispersible in the oily phase of the composition.
  • Clay denotes a material based on hydrated silicates and/or aluminosilicates, of lamellar structure.
  • the clays can be natural or synthetic and they are rendered lipophilic by treatment with an alkylammonium salt, such as a Cio to C22 ammonium chloride, for example stearalkonium chloride or distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • alkylammonium salt such as a Cio to C22 ammonium chloride, for example stearalkonium chloride or distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • They may be chosen from bentonites, in particular bentonites, hectorites and montmorillonites, beidellites, saponites, nontronites, sepiolites, biotites, attapulgites, vermiculites and zeolites. They are preferably chosen from hectorites and bentonites.
  • a lipophilic clay chosen from hydrophobically modified bentonites and hydrophobically modified hectorites, in particular modified with a Cio to C22 quaternary ammonium chloride, such as:
  • bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride such as the commercial products sold under the name Claytone AF®, Garamite VT®, Tixogel® LG-M, Tixogel® MP 250 Tixogel® VZ and Tixogel® VZ-V XR, by BYK Additives Inc; or the commercial products sold under the name Viscogel® B3, Viscogel® B4, Viscogel® B7, Viscogel® B8, Viscogel® ED, Viscogel® GM, Viscogel® S4 and Viscogel® SD by Bentec S.P.A;
  • bentonite modified with stearalkonium chloride in the presence of at least propylene carbonate and of at least one oil such as the commercial products Dub Velvet Gum® from the company Stearineries Dubois Fils, Myglyol GEL T® from Cremer Oleo, Tixogel® CGT 6030, Tixogel® DBA 6060, Tixogel® FTN, Tixogel® FTN 1564, Tixogel® IPM, Tixogel® LAN, Tixogel® LAN 1563 by BYK Additives Inc;
  • hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride such as, for example, that sold under the name Bentone® 38V by Elementis Specialities;
  • Bentone® Gel DOA V Bentone® Gel EUG V
  • Bentone® Gel IHD V Bentone® Gel ISD V
  • Bentone® Gel MIO V Bentone® Gel PTM V® Bentone® SS-71 V
  • Bentone® VS-5 PC V Bentone® VS-5 by the company Elementis Specialities
  • Creagel Bentone CPS/Hectone CPS Creagel Bentone ID/Hectone ID from the company Creations Couliv
  • the lipophilic clay(s) are present in the composition in concentrations ranging preferably from 0.1 % to 5% by weight and more preferentially from 0.1 % to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention may in addition comprise additives commonly used in care and/or makeup products, such as:
  • vitamins for example vitamins A, E, C and B3; moisturizers; emollients;
  • a composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additional colorant, preferably in a proportion of at least 0.01 % by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • additional colorants that are suitable for use in the invention may be water- soluble, but may also be liposoluble.
  • water-soluble colorant means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or water-miscible solvents and which is capable of coloring.
  • synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes for instance FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1 , betanine (beetroot), carmine, copper chlorophylline, methylene blue, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus and elder), caramel and riboflavin.
  • the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice and caramel.
  • liposoluble colorant means any natural or synthetic, generally organic compound, which is soluble in an oily phase or in solvents that are miscible with a fatty substance, and which is capable of imparting color.
  • liposoluble dyes that are suitable for use in the invention, mention may be made especially of synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes, for instance DC Red 17, DC Red 21 , DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 1 1 , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes ( ⁇ -carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.
  • synthetic or natural liposoluble dyes for instance DC Red 17, DC Red 21 , DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 1 1 , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes ( ⁇ -carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow, annatto and curcumin.
  • Non-elastomeric silicone surfactant can additionally comprise a non-elastomeric silicone surfactant chosen in particular from oxyalkylenated and preferably oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxanes.
  • non-elastomeric silicone surfactant is intended to mean any non- crosslinked emulsifying organpolysiloxane compound.
  • the linear or branched, non-elastomeric silicone surfactant comprises polyoxyethylene chains on the main chain (side or pendent polyoxyethylene chains).
  • the number of alkylene oxide units can range from 2 to 50 and preferably from 5 to 20. Mention may, for example, be made of non-elastomeric silicone surfactants such as dimethicone polyols, such as that having the INCI name Dimethicone (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone sold under the brand X-22-671 1 D® by the company Shin-Etsu, the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol, sold under the name DC 5225 C® by the company Dow Corning, and alkyldimethicone copolyols such as laurylmethicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by the company Dow Corning; cetyl dimethicone copolyol, such as cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90® by the company Evonik Goldschmidt, and the mixture of cetyl
  • the non-elastomeric silicone surfactant can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.01 % to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.1 % to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS The present invention also relates to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a composition as defined above.
  • physiologically acceptable medium is intended to denote a medium that is particularly suitable for the application of a composition according to the invention to the skin.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the support onto which the composition has to be applied, and also to the appearance under which the composition has to be packaged.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for caring for the skin of the body or the face, in particular the face.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body or of the face, in particular of the face.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a makeup base composition.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a foundation.
  • compositions can be in the form of fluid or thick creams.
  • a composition of the invention may advantageously be in the form of a composition for making up the skin and 15 especially the face. It may thus be an eyeshadow or a face powder.
  • compositions are especially prepared according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.
  • Iron oxides and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.8 hydroxide
  • Iron oxides and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 hydroxide
  • Iron oxides and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 hydroxide
  • Titanium dioxide (and) disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum 10.6 10.6 10.6 10.6 10.6 10.6 10.6 10.6 10.6 hydroxide
  • Step 1 all of phase A1 was introduced, at ambient temperature (20-25°C), into a beaker and then the mixture was vigorously stirred with a rotor stator for 40 minutes. 10 Complete dissolution of the trimethylsiloxy silicate silicone resin was verified before proceeding with the next step.
  • Step 2 phase A2 was added, with stirring, then stirring was carried out for 15 minutes at a speed of 1500 rpm.
  • Step 3 phase A3 was added, with stirring, then stirring was carried out for 15 15 minutes at a speed of 1500 rpm.
  • Step 4 phase A4 was added (with addition of the fragrance at the end), with stirring, then stirring was carried out for 10 minutes at a speed of 1600 rpm.
  • Step 1 all of phase B1 was introduced, at ambient temperature, into a separate beaker and the mixture was stirred with a disperser for 5 minutes.
  • Step 2 all of phase B2 was added and stirring was carried out for 10 minutes.
  • Step 3 all of phase B3 was added with stirring. Stirring was carried out vigorously 25 for 20 to 30 minutes with a vortex at a speed of 500 rpm. The mixture was left to stir until the emulsification step and the amount of water having evaporated off during the preparation of the aqueous phase was adjusted.
  • Step 1 a basin of cold water was placed under the beaker in order to cool the formula during the emulsification step at a temperature of between 20 and 30°C.
  • Step 2 the aqueous phase was added to the oily phase with stirring with a rotor stator. Stirring was carried out for 10 minutes at a speed of 3500 rpm.
  • Step 3 Before introducing phase C, the speed was reduced to 3000 rpm. Phase C was introduced slowly, then the speed was increased to 4000 rpm and stirring was carried out for 5 minutes. Introduction of the pigments
  • Step 1 the transparent base was placed in a beaker.
  • Step 2 phase D was slowly introduced, over the course of 5 min with stirring with a rotor stator and the mixture was stirred for 20 minutes after complete introduction of the pigments (speed 3500 rpm).
  • the walls were manually scraped in order to prevent agglomeration of the pigments on the walls.
  • a basin of cold water was placed under the beaker in order to cool the formula.
  • This test makes it possible to quantify the weight loss of a dry deposit of foundation after contact with an absorbent paper under a weight of 2 kg.
  • the excess foundation is leveled with a microscope slide in order to form a film of foundation having the thickness of the crown (250 ⁇ );
  • the sample is placed in an oven at 37°C for 24 h in order to dry the deposit of foundation;
  • each sample is weighed on a precision balance; - a sheet of absorbent paper (non-smooth side) is taken and squares of 7 cm ⁇ 7 cm are made in order to delimit test zones;
  • a composition is considered to have a satiny effect, a good satiny-effect wear property over time and good resistance to transfer if it simultaneously corresponds to the following 2 criteria:
  • composition 1 according to the invention in the form of a W/O emulsion comprises:
  • non-thickening, non-interference filler having a mean size of less than 15.0 ⁇ and an oil absorption capacity Wp of at least 40 ml/100 g;
  • Example 2 Mean size of the non-thickening, non-interference
  • Example 3 Oil absorption capacity of the non-thickening, non-interference filler
  • Example 4 Solids content > 65%.
  • Example 5 Solids content ⁇ 40%.
  • Example 6 Total amount of particulate matter/total amount of solids weight ratio > 55%.
  • Example 7 Total amount of particulate matter/total amount of solids weight ratio
  • Example 8 Absence of emulsifying silicone elastomer.
  • Example 9 Absence of hydrophobic film-forming polymer.

Abstract

L'invention concerne une composition sous forme d'émulsion eau-dans-huile, comprenant en particulier un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, en particulier pour le revêtement de matières kératiniques, plus particulièrement pour le maquillage et/ou le soin des matières kératiniques, telles que la peau, contenant au moins : a) une phase continue huileuse; et b) une phase aqueuse discontinue dispersée dans ladite phase huileuse; c) au moins un polymère filmogène hydrophobe; d) au moins une huile non volatile; et e) au moins une charge non épaississante non-interférentielle ayant une taille moyenne inférieure à 15,0 μm et une capacité d'absorption d'huile Wp d'au moins 40 ml/100g; et g) un système émulsifiant comprenant au moins un élastomère de silicone émulsifiant; et h) au moins un pigment; f) éventuellement au moins un polyol; et i) éventuellement au moins une charge supplémentaire; la quantité totale de matière solide allant de 15 % à 30 % en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition; et - la teneur en solides allant de 40 % à 65 %; et - la quantité totale de matière particulaire/quantité totale de rapport pondéral des solides allant de 30 % à 55 %. L'invention concerne également un procédé pour le revêtement de matières kératiniques, plus particulièrement pour le maquillage et/ou le soin des matières kératiniques telle que la peau, caractérisé en ce qu'il comprend l'application d'une composition telle que définie précédemment sur les matières kératiniques.
PCT/EP2018/063474 2017-06-15 2018-05-23 Émulsion eau-dans-huile à base de charges non épaississantes, non interférentielles, sur une huile non volatile, sur un polymère filmogène hydrophobe, sur et émulsionnant de l'élastomère silicone et sur des pigments WO2018228783A1 (fr)

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US11766389B2 (en) 2020-10-29 2023-09-26 L'oreal Makeup composition
WO2022133733A1 (fr) * 2020-12-22 2022-06-30 L'oreal Composition pour le soin et/ou le maquillage de matières kératiniques
WO2023094277A1 (fr) * 2021-11-26 2023-06-01 L'oreal Émulsion cosmétique eau-dans-huile comprenant un filtre uv spécifique soluble dans l'eau, une base, une huile volatile, un polymère filmogène hydrophobe, un polydiméthylméthylsiloxane linéaire polyoxyalkyléné et une vitamine b3
FR3129598A1 (fr) * 2021-11-26 2023-06-02 L'oreal Emulsion eau-dans-huile cosmétique comprenant un filtre UV hydrosoluble particulier, une base, une huile volatile, un polymère filmogène hydrophobe, une polydiméthylméthylsiloxane linéaire polyoxyalkyléné et une vitamine B3.

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