WO2012035513A1 - Composition de cosmétique solide pour le maquillage - Google Patents

Composition de cosmétique solide pour le maquillage Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012035513A1
WO2012035513A1 PCT/IB2011/054048 IB2011054048W WO2012035513A1 WO 2012035513 A1 WO2012035513 A1 WO 2012035513A1 IB 2011054048 W IB2011054048 W IB 2011054048W WO 2012035513 A1 WO2012035513 A1 WO 2012035513A1
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WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
composition
weight
group
groups
powder
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PCT/IB2011/054048
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English (en)
Inventor
Padraig Mac Dermott
Catherine Sautel
Gwénola LE GARS
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L'oreal
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Publication of WO2012035513A1 publication Critical patent/WO2012035513A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0216—Solid or semisolid forms
    • A61K8/022—Powders; Compacted Powders
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/87—Polyurethanes
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/896—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate
    • A61K8/898—Polysiloxanes containing atoms other than silicon, carbon, oxygen and hydrogen, e.g. dimethicone copolyol phosphate containing nitrogen, e.g. amodimethicone, trimethyl silyl amodimethicone or dimethicone propyl PG-betaine
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/12—Face or body powders for grooming, adorning or absorbing

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to the field of solid cosmetic care and/or makeup compositions.
  • the galenical forms conventionally adopted for solid compositions are generally loose, pressed or compact powders.
  • the function of the abovementioned powders is mainly to give color, mattness and even, for those more particularly intended for facial skin, to improve the wear property of a foundation or, if used alone, to give coverage (powder foundation).
  • these compositions combine a pulverulent phase that is generally predominant with a binder phase usually featured by a liquid fatty phase.
  • the pulverulent phase is formed essentially of fillers combined with pigments, the amount of these pigments being modified to afford the desired makeup effect, generally a color effect.
  • the fillers it is generally preferred to choose materials that are capable of showing absorbing and/or adsorbing capacity with regard to the associated binder phase.
  • materials of porous or lamellar structure such as talc, nacre powders, titanium oxide or zinc oxide prove to be particularly advantageous.
  • the present invention more particularly concerns the erosion aspect of these compositions, i.e. their ability to be easily eroded by means of a suitable applicator, at their time of use.
  • the present invention relates to a solid cosmetic makeup and/or care composition
  • a physiologically acceptable medium comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least:
  • compositions considered according to the invention are in the form of a powder.
  • This powder may be loose or pressed.
  • it is a loose powder or a pressed powder.
  • the pulverulent phase is present in a proportion of at least 35% by weight relative to total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises at least 2% by weight of polyurethane powder relative to its total weight.
  • this pulverulent phase is combined with the fatty phase in a pulverulent phase/fatty phase weight ratio ranging from 55/45 to 70/30.
  • the silicone polyamide (SPA) and the silicone resin are used in an SPA/silicone resin weight ratio ranging from 0.25 to 1 , better still from 0.4 to 0.8, preferably from 0.5 to 0.6 and in particular equal to 0.56.
  • these two compounds are used with at least 0.1 % to 15% by weight, for example from 0.5% to 10% by weight and preferably 2% to 8% by weight of polyurethane powder relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pulverulent phase forming the composition of the invention may comprise, besides the polyurethane powder, an additional filler.
  • the composition according to the invention comprising a fatty phase comprising at least one silicone polyamide is obtained by means of a specific process that affords a cosmetic composition of novel texture, namely a paste that is soft or in the form of chips, which has good elasticity.
  • a cosmetic composition of novel texture namely a paste that is soft or in the form of chips, which has good elasticity.
  • This texture allows a smooth, uniform film to be applied to keratin materials, and has good wear properties.
  • a subject of the present invention is also a process for making up or caring for keratin materials and especially the eyelids, in which a composition as defined previously is applied to said keratin materials.
  • compositions considered according to the invention are solid.
  • the term “solid” characterizes the state of the composition at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • the composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight and preferably less than 3% by weight of water relative to the total weight; preferably, the composition is free of water.
  • the composition is an eyeshadow, an eyebrow composition, an eyeliner, a blusher or a face powder. Even more preferentially, the composition is a foundation, an eyeshadow or a blusher. It is more particularly a foundation.
  • the amount of polyurethane powder used according to the invention may advantageously represent from 0.1% to 15% by weight, for example from 0.5% to 10% by weight, for example from 2% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the polyurethane powder is a powder of a copolymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate and of trimethylol hexyl lactone.
  • the composition according to the invention contains a polyurethane powder that is not film-forming, i.e. it does not form a continuous film when it is deposited onto a support such as the skin.
  • Such a polyurethane powder is especially sold under the names Plastic Powder D-400, Plastic Powder D-800 and Plastic Powder T-75 by the company Toshiki.
  • Another polyurethane powder that may be used is the one sold under the name Plastic Powder CS-400 by the company Toshiki.
  • a solid composition according to the invention advantageously has a content of pulverulent phase of greater than or equal to 35% by weight, in particular greater than or equal to 40% by weight and more particularly ranging from 45% to 80% by weight relative to its total weight.
  • the polyurethane powder is present in a content ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, better still from 7% to 20% and more particularly from 9% to 17% by weight relative to the total weight of the fillers. According to one variant, the polyurethane powder is present in a content ranging from 4% to 15% by weight, better still from 5% to 12% and more particularly from 6% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the pulverulent phase.
  • this pulverulent phase may comprise one or more additional filler(s), and advantageously also at least one dyestuff, especially for the makeup compositions according to the invention.
  • fillers should be understood as meaning colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured.
  • the additional fillers may be chosen from fillers such as:
  • silica microspheres especially of open porosity or, preferably, hollow silica microspheres, such as the products Silica Beads SB 700/HA or Silica Beads SB 700 from the company Maprecos; these microspheres may be impregnated with a cosmetic active agent;
  • microporous polymer microspheres which have a structure similar to that of a sponge; they generally have a specific surface area of at least 0.5 m 2 /g and in particular of at least 1 m 2 /g, said specific surface area having no upper limit other than that resulting from the practical possibility of making microspheres of very high porosity: the specific surface area may, for example, be up to 1000 m 2 /g or even more.
  • Microspheres that may be mentioned include acrylic polymer microspheres, such as those made of crosslinked acrylate copolymer Polytrap 6603 Adsorber from the company RP Scherer, and those made of polymethyl methacrylate Micropearl M 100 from the company SEPPIC;
  • - polymer microcapsules that comprise a single closed cavity and form a reservoir, which may contain a liquid, especially a cosmetic active agent; they are prepared via known processes such as those described in patents US-A-3 615 972 and EP- A-0 56219.
  • They may be made, for example, of polymers or copolymers of ethylenically unsaturated acid, amine or ester monomers, of urea- formaldehyde polymers or of vinylidene chloride polymers or copolymers; by way of example, mention may be made of microcapsules made of methyl acrylate or methacrylate polymers or copolymers, or alternatively of copolymers of vinylidene chloride and of acrylonitrile; among these polymers, mention will be made especially of those containing 20-60% by weight of units derived from vinylidene chloride, 20-60% by weight of units derived from acrylonitrile and 0-40% by weight of other units such as units derived from an acrylic and/or styrene monomer; crosslinked acrylic polymers or copolymers may also be used;
  • metal soaps in powder form are especially of metal soaps of fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and in particular those containing from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the metal of the metal soap may especially be zinc or magnesium.
  • the fatty acid may be chosen especially from lauric acid, myristic acid, stearic acid and palmitic acid.
  • the metal soaps that may be used include zinc laurate, magnesium stearate, magnesium myristate and zinc stearate, and mixtures thereof;
  • - talcs or hydrated magnesium silicates especially in the form of particles generally less than 40 ⁇ in size;
  • micas or aluminosilicates of varied composition that are especially in the form of flakes from 2 to 200 ⁇ and preferably 5-70 ⁇ in size and from 0.1 to 5 ⁇ and preferably 0.2-3 ⁇ in thickness, these micas possibly being of natural origin (for example muscovite, margarite, roscoelite, lipidolite or biotite) or of synthetic origin;
  • non-expanded synthetic polymers such as polyethylene, polyesters (for example polyethylene isophthalate or terephthalate) and polyamides (for example Nylon), in the form of particles less than 50 ⁇ in size;
  • polyamide powders such as poly-P-alanine powder or Nylon powder, for example Orgasol powder from the company Atochem, polyacrylic acid or polymethacrylic acid powder, powders of polystyrene crosslinked with divinylbenzene, and silicone resin powders, and
  • - powders of organic materials of natural origin for instance starches, especially corn starch, wheat starch or rice starch;
  • titanium oxides As representatives of such fillers, mention may especially be made of titanium oxides, zinc oxides, perlite powders and bismuth oxychloride powders.
  • the additional fillers may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight and preferably ranging from 1% to 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a composition according to the invention may contain as filler, besides the polyurethane powder, a perlite powder and/or mica.
  • the composition comprises polyurethane powder, a perlite powder and optionally mica.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of fillers ranging from 10% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 12% to 60% by weight and preferentially ranging from 15% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise, in its pulverulent phase, a coloring agent.
  • the coloring agent or dyestuff according to the invention is chosen from pigments, nacres and reflective particles, and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise a pulverulent phase formed from a large amount, for example more than 35% or even 40% by weight, of coloring agents, featured especially by pigments and/or nacres.
  • the amount of associated filler including polyurethane powder may then range from 10% to 35% by weight or even from 1% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • pigments should be understood as meaning white or colored, mineral or organic particles of any form, which are insoluble in the physiological medium and are intended to color the composition.
  • the pigments may be white or colored, and mineral and/or organic.
  • mineral pigments that may be mentioned are titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron (black, yellow or red) oxide or chromium oxide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, and metal powders, for instance aluminum powder and copper powder.
  • the organic pigments may be chosen from the materials below, and mixtures thereof:
  • organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes and fluorane dyes Among the organic pigments, mention may be made especially of the D&C certified pigments known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No.
  • D&C Red No. 28 D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6.
  • a composition according to the invention may comprise a total content of pigments ranging from 0.1% to 70% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 65% by weight and preferentially ranging from 1% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • a pigment content ranging from 1% to 40% by weight, preferably from 5% to 30% by weight and in particular from 10% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition will generally be used.
  • composition according to the invention may be free of pigments.
  • the pulverulent phase according to the invention may also comprise, or may even be formed from, nacres and/or reflective particles.
  • nacre should be understood as meaning colored particles of any form, which may or may not be iridescent, especially produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or alternatively synthesized, and which have a color effect via optical interference.
  • nacres examples include nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
  • the nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery color or tint.
  • the gold-colored nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); the bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company Engelhard under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres sold especially by the
  • particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.
  • Particles having a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are especially sold under the name Metashine MC1080RY by the company Toyal.
  • compositions according to the invention may comprise from 0 to 65%, for example 30% to 65% and better still 40% to 60% by weight of nacres. More preferentially, they contain less than 70% by weight of nacres.
  • a composition according to the invention comprises a polyurethane powder and nacres in a polyurethane powder/nacres weight ratio ranging from 0.05 to 0.15.
  • coloring agent according to the invention may be chosen from reflective particles.
  • reflective particles denotes particles whose size, structure, especially the thickness of the layer(s) of which they are made and their physical and chemical nature, and surface state allow them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have an intensity sufficient to create at the surface of the composition or of the mixture, when it is applied to the support to be made up, points of overbrightness that are visible to the naked eye, i.e. more luminous points that contrast with their environment by appearing to sparkle.
  • the reflective particles may be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloration effect generated by the coloring agents with which they are combined, and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color yield. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or coppery color or tint.
  • These particles may have varied forms and may especially be in platelet or globular form, in particular spherical.
  • the reflective particles may or may not have a multilayer structure, and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, especially a reflective material.
  • the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed, for example, of metal oxides, especially titanium or iron oxides obtained synthetically.
  • the reflective particles may comprise, for example, a natural or synthetic substrate, especially a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, especially of at least one metal or metallic material.
  • the substrate may be a monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and/or mineral substrate.
  • glasses More particularly, it may be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, especially aluminosilicates and borosilicates, and synthetic mica, and mixtures thereof, this list not being limiting.
  • the reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or of a metallic material.
  • Reflective particles are described especially in documents JP-A-09188830, JP- A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.
  • reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal
  • Particles with a silver-coated glass substrate in the form of platelets, are sold under the name Microglass Metashine REFSX 2025 PS by the company Toyal.
  • Particles with a glass substrate coated with nickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy are sold under the name Crystal Star GF 550 and GF 2525 by this same company.
  • Particles comprising a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, manganese, steel, bronze or titanium, may also be used, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium oxide, chromium oxide or silicon oxides, and mixtures thereof.
  • a metallic substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, manganese, steel, bronze or titanium
  • Examples that may be mentioned include aluminum powder, bronze powder or copper powder coated with Si0 2 sold under the name Visionaire by the company Eckart.
  • the pulverulent phase comprises at least one compound chosen from:
  • organic pigments such as, for example:
  • mineral pigments such as: - iron oxide, titanium oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide,
  • nacres such as, for example:
  • mica coated with titanium oxide mica coated with titanium oxide and iron oxide, and mica coated with an amino acid such as lauroyl lysine,
  • reflective particles such as, for example:
  • - particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with a metallic layer.
  • a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase as binder.
  • This liquid fatty phase is advantageously present in a proportion of at least 15% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, and preferably in a proportion of from 30% to 45% by weight and in particular from 35% to 42% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • This fatty phase may be formed partially or totally from the silicone polyamide and the silicone resin required according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention comprise at least one silicone polyamide.
  • the silicone polyamides of the composition are preferably solid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).
  • polymer means a compound containing at least two repeating units, preferably at least three repeating units and better still ten repeating units.
  • the silicone polyamides of the composition of the invention may be polymers of the polyorganosiloxane type, for instance those described in documents US-A- 5 874 069, US-A-5 919 441 , US-A-6 051 216 and US-A-5 981 680. According to the invention, the silicone polymers may belong to the following two families:
  • polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide groups, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and/or
  • polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide groups, these two groups being located on grafts or branches.
  • the silicone polymers are polyorganosiloxanes as defined above in which the amide units are located in the polymer chain.
  • the silicone polyamides may be more particularly polymers comprising at unit corresponding to the general formula I:
  • G' represents C(O) when G represents -C(0)-NH-Y-NH-
  • G' represents -NH- when G represents -NH-C(0)-Y-C(0)-
  • R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 which may be identical or different, represent a group chosen from:
  • Ci to C 4 o hydrocarbon-based groups possibly containing in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and possibly being partially or totally substituted with fluorine atoms,
  • polyorganosiloxane chains possibly containing one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, 3) the groups X, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched Ci to C 3 o alkylenediyl group, possibly containing in its chain one or more oxygen and/or nitrogen atoms;
  • Y is a saturated or unsaturated Ci to C50 linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene divalent group, which may comprise one or more oxygen, sulfur and/or nitrogen atoms, and/or may bear as substituent one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxyl, C 3 to Cs cycloalkyl, Ci to C40 alkyl, C 5 to C10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with one to three Ci to C 3 alkyl, Ci to C 3 hydroxyalkyl and Ci to C 6 aminoalkyl groups, or
  • Y represents a group corresponding to the formula:
  • T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C 3 to C 24 trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon-based group optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and possibly containing one or more atoms chosen from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and
  • R 8 represents a linear or branched C1-C50 alkyl group or a polyorganosiloxane chain, possibly comprising one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and/or sulfonamide groups, which may possibly be linked to another chain of the polymer;
  • n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500 and preferably from 2 to 200
  • m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and better still from 6 to 200.
  • 80% of the groups R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 of the polymer are preferably chosen from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl groups. According to another embodiment, 80% of the groups R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 of the polymer are methyl groups.
  • Y can represent various divalent groups, furthermore optionally comprising one or two free valencies to establish bonds with other moieties of the polymer or copolymer.
  • Y represents a group chosen from: a) linear Ci to C20 and preferably Ci to C10 alkylene groups, b) branched C30 to C56 alkylene groups possibly comprising rings and unconjugated unsaturations,
  • Ci to C20 alkylene groups comprising from 1 to 5 amide groups
  • Ci to C20 alkylene groups comprising one or more substituents chosen from hydroxyl, C 3 to Cs cycloalkane, Ci to C 3 hydroxyalkyl and Ci to C 6 alkylamine groups,
  • R 4 , R 5 , R 6 , R 7 , T and m are as defined above.
  • the silicone polyamides may be polyi comprising at least one unit corresponding to formula (II):
  • R 4 and R 6 which may be identical or different, are as defined above for formula (I),
  • R 10 represents a group as defined above for R 4 and R 6 , or represents a group of formula -X-G"-R 12 in which X is as defined above for formula (I) and R represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, Ci- C50 hydrocarbon-based group optionally comprising in its chain one or more atoms chosen from O, S and N, optionally substituted with one or more fluorine atoms and/or one or more hydroxyl groups, or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C4 alkyl groups,
  • G" represents -C(0)NH- and -HN-C(O)-
  • R 11 represents a group of formula -X-G"-R 12 in which X, G" and R 12 are as defined above,
  • - mi is an integer ranging from 1 to 998
  • n 2 is an integer ranging from 2 to 500.
  • the silicone polymer may be a homopolymer, i.e. a polymer comprising several identical units, in particular units of formula (I) or of formula (II).
  • the copolymer may also be formed from several units of formula (II), in which at least one of the groups R 4 , R 6 , R 10 , R 11 , mi and m 2 is different in at least one of the units.
  • a polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (I) and at least one unit of formula (II) the units of formula (I) and the units of formula (II) possibly being identical to or different than each other.
  • a silicone polyamide furthermore comprising at least one hydrocarbon-based unit comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions, chosen from ester, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups, and combinations thereof.
  • copolymers may be block polymers or grafted polymers.
  • the alkylene group representing X or Y can optionally contain in its alkylene part at least one of the following components:
  • alkylene groups may also be substituted with at least one component chosen from the group formed from:
  • a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three Ci to C 3 alkyl groups,
  • Y may also represent: which R represents a polyorganosiloxane chain and T represents a group of formula: it
  • a, b and c are, independently, integers ranging from 1 to 10
  • R 13 is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 .
  • R 4 , R 5 , R 6 and R 7 preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched Ci to C 4 o alkyl group, preferably a CH 3 , C 2 H 5 , n-C 3 H 7 or isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups.
  • the polymer may comprise identical or different units of formula (I) or (II).
  • the polymer may be a polyamide containing several units of formula (I) or (II) of different lengths, i.e. a pol amide corresponding to formula (III):
  • X, Y, n and R 4 to R 7 have the meanings given above, mi and m 2 , which are different, are chosen in the range from 1 to 1000, and p is an integer ranging from 2 to 300.
  • the units may be structured to form either a block copolymer, or a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer.
  • the units may be not only of different lengths, but also of different chemical structures, for example containing different groups Y.
  • the polymer may correspond to formula (IV): c(0)— X+SioJ— Si— X C(O) NH
  • R 4 to R 7 , X, Y, m l s n3 ⁇ 4, n and p have the meanings given above and Y 1 is different than Y but chosen from the groups defined for Y.
  • the various units may be structured to form either a block copolymer, or a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer.
  • the silicone polymer may also consist of a grafted copolymer.
  • the polyamide containing silicone units may be grafted and optionally crosslinked with silicone chains containing amide groups.
  • Such polymers may be synthesized with trifunctional amines.
  • the siloxane units may be in the main chain or backbone of the polymer, but they may also be present in grafted or pendent chains.
  • the siloxane units may be in the form of segments as described above.
  • the siloxane units may appear individually or in segments.
  • a copolymer of silicone polyamide and of hydrocarbon-based polyamide or a copolymer comprising units of formula (I) or (II) and hydrocarbon-based polyamide units, may be used.
  • the polyamide-silicone units may be located at the ends of the hydrocarbon-based polyamide.
  • the composition comprises at least one polyamide/polydimethylsiloxane polymer, especially a polymer of general formula (I) with an index m of greater than 50, in particular greater than 75 and especially of about 100.
  • the silicone polyamide of formula (I) has a weight-average molecular mass ranging from 10 000 to 500 000 g/mol.
  • X and Y independently represent a group chosen from linear C1-C20 and preferably C1-C10 alkylene groups.
  • polymers that may be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with Examples 1 to 3 of document US-A-5 981 680.
  • the nylon-611/dimethicone copolymer sold under the reference DC 2-8179 by Dow Corning is used as silicone polyamide.
  • the polymers and copolymers used in the composition of the invention advantageously have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 45°C to 190°C. Preferably, they have a temperature of transition from the solid state to the liquid state ranging from 70 to 130°C and better still from 80°C to 105°C.
  • the silicone polyamide may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 30% by weight and better still ranging from 2% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
  • silicone resins examples include:
  • siloxysilicates which may be trimethylsiloxy silicates of formula [(CH 3 ) 3 SiO] x (Si04/ 2 ) y (units MQ) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80,
  • polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted with another group.
  • polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in document US 5 246 694.
  • Resin MK polymer comprising CH 3 Si0 3 / 2 repeating units (units T), which may also comprise up to 1%) by weight of (CH 3 ) 2 Si0 2 / 2 units (units D) and having an average molecular weight of about 10 000 g/mol, or
  • Siloxysilicate resins that may be mentioned include trimethyl siloxysilicate resins (TMS) optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are sold under the reference SRI 000 by the company Momentive Performance Materials or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of trimethyl siloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name KF-7312J by the company Shin-Etsu or DC 749 and DC 593 by the company Dow Corning.
  • TMS trimethyl siloxysilicate resins
  • a siloxysilicate resin more particularly a trimethyl siloxysilicate resin, is used as silicone resin.
  • the silicone resin for instance the trimethyl siloxysilicate resin
  • the silicone resin is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 30%, or better still from 1% to 25% or even better still from 5% to 25% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the silicone resin, and especially the trimethyl siloxysilicate resin is present in a ratio such that the silicone polyamide/silicone resin mass proportion is between 0.25 and 1 and preferably between 0.33 and 1.
  • nylon-611/dimethicone is used as silicone polyamide and a trimethyl siloxysilicate resin is used as silicone resin.
  • the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one oil.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one volatile oil.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone oil, especially a cyclohexadimethylsiloxane.
  • composition may also comprise at least one nonvolatile oil.
  • composition according to the invention is free of nonvolatile oil.
  • the oil(s) may be present in a content ranging from 15% to 45% by weight and preferably from 20% to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • volatile oil means an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fiber in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile organic solvent(s) and volatile oils of the invention are volatile organic solvents and cosmetic oils that are liquid at room temperature, with a nonzero vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 ⁇ 3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • nonvolatile oil means an oil that remains on the keratin material at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and that especially has a vapor pressure of less than 10 ⁇ 3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils or fluoro oils, or mixtures thereof.
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur or phosphorus atoms.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched Cs-Ci6 alkanes, for instance Cs-Ci6 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), for instance isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4, 6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane and isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopar or Permethyl, branched Cs-Ci6 esters and isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile hydrocarbon-based oils for instance petroleum distillates, especially those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company Shell, may also be used.
  • the volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may also be chosen from linear Cs-Ci6 alkanes. Examples of linear Cs-Ci6 alkanes that may be mentioned include n- nonadecane (C9), n-decane (C 10 ), n-undecane (Cn), n-dodecane (C 12 ), n-tridecane (C 13 ), n- tetradecane (C 14 ), n-pentadecane (C 15 ) and n-hexadecane (C 16 ), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n-undecane (Cn) and of n-tridecane (C 13 ) sold under the reference Cetiol UT by the company Cognis.
  • Volatile oils that may also be used include volatile silicones, for instance volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, especially those with a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 ⁇ 10 ⁇ 6 m 2 /s) and especially containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made especially of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.
  • a composition according to the invention contains at least one volatile silicone oil, which is especially cyclic, and in particular an oil such as cyclohexadimethylsiloxane.
  • R represents an alkyl group containing from 2 to 4 carbon atoms, of which one or more hydrogen atoms may be substituted with a fluorine or chlorine atom.
  • oils of general formula (I) that may be mentioned are: - 3-butyl-l ,l ,l ,3,5,5,5-heptamethyltrisiloxane,
  • Volatile fluoro solvents such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane may also be used.
  • the composition comprises a content of volatile oil ranging from
  • composition according to the invention may comprise at least 5% by weight, especially 10%> by weight or even at least 15% by weight of volatile silicone oil(s).
  • composition may also comprise at least one nonvolatile oil, chosen especially from nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils and/or silicone oils and/or fluoro oils.
  • nonvolatile hydrocarbon-based oils that may especially be mentioned include:
  • oils of plant origin such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have varied chain lengths from C 4 to C 24 , these chains possibly being linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are especially wheatgerm oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, sesame seed oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame seed oil, marrow oil, rapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, saffiower oil, candlenut oil, passion flower oil and musk rose oil; or alternatively caprylic/capric acid triglycer
  • esters such as oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which Ri represents a linear or branched fatty acid residue containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents an in particular branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, on condition that Ri + R 2 ⁇ 10, for instance purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, alkyl or polyalkyl octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate and diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythr
  • - fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature, containing a branched and/or unsaturated carbon-based chain containing from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, for instance octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;
  • the nonvolatile silicone oils that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, that are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, for instance phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethy lsiloxy silicates .
  • PDMSs nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, that are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, the groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon
  • fluoro oils that may be used in the invention are, in particular, fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers or fluorosilicones, as described in document EP-A- 847 752.
  • composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous phase.
  • this aqueous phase must be used in an amount that is compatible with the pulverulent galenical form required according to the invention.
  • the water may be a floral water such as cornflower water and/or a mineral water such as Vittel water, Lucas water or La Roche Posay water and/or a spring water.
  • the aqueous phase may also comprise a polyol that is miscible with water at room temperature (25°C) chosen especially from polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol or diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (especially containing from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol (Ci-C 4 )alkyl ethers, mono-, di- or triethylene glycol (Ci-C 4 )alkyl ethers, and mixtures thereof.
  • polyols especially containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably containing from 2 to 10 carbon atoms and preferentially containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propy
  • Glycerol is most particularly suitable for use as a polyol.
  • the composition according to the invention may also comprise a polyol that is miscible with water at room temperature in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight and preferably ranging from 3% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Such polyols may promote the moisturization of the surface of the skin on which the composition is applied.
  • the composition according to the invention may comprise a monoalcohol containing from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol or isopropanol, especially in a content ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight and preferably ranging from 1% to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises less than 5% by weight and preferably less than 3% by weight of water relative to the total weight; preferably, the composition is free of water.
  • composition may comprise other ingredients (adjuvants) usually used in cosmetics, such as preserving agents, cosmetic active agents, moisturizers, UV screening agents, thickeners, surfactants and fragrances.
  • adjuvants usually used in cosmetics, such as preserving agents, cosmetic active agents, moisturizers, UV screening agents, thickeners, surfactants and fragrances.
  • the invention also relates to a cosmetic assembly comprising:
  • composition in accordance with the invention placed inside said compartment.
  • the container may be in any suitable form. It may especially be a bottle, a tube, ajar, a case, a can, a sachet or a box.
  • the closing member may be in the form of a removable stopper, a lid, a cap, a tear-off strip or a capsule, especially of the type comprising a body attached to the container and a cover cap articulated on the body. It may also be in the form of a member that selectively closes the container, especially a pump or a valve, for instance a clapper.
  • the composition is inside a leaktight container. Preparation process
  • composition according to the invention is preferably prepared according to the following procedure: A formulation base comprising the silicone polyamide and the silicone resin is prepared. This base may also comprise one or more oils, especially volatile oils, and also a gelling agent.
  • This formulation base is then mixed with a fatty phase, especially a volatile or nonvolatile silicone oil, using a blender or an extruder.
  • a fatty phase especially a volatile or nonvolatile silicone oil
  • the process comprises at least one step of controlled shear of all of the ingredients of the composition, advantageously at a temperature greater than or equal to the solid-liquid transition temperature of the silicone polymer.
  • any equipment or equipment combination for controlling a mechanical action that will blend the product gradually as it is prepared such as processes functioning continuously of scraped-surface exchanger type, or preferably of blender/twin-screw extruder type (referred to for simplicity as "extruder” in the rest of the present document) is suitable for use in the process according to the invention.
  • Extruders of blender/twin-screw extruder type are preferably used, these extruders being composed of the following elements:
  • At least two jackets independently temperature-regulated to a temperature ranging from 10°C to 300°C
  • variable-speed motor for modulating the intensity of the shear as a function of the spin speed of the screws.
  • the various ingredients may be incorporated at different temperatures in the course of the blending during cooling, at a temperature that is compatible with their stability.
  • the resin is mixed with part of the isododecane, and the mixture is allowed to swell.
  • phase B silicone polyamide
  • phase A is mixed with silicone polyamide, while stirring using a Moritz blender or under vigorous stirring with a Rayneri blender.
  • compositions of Examples 1 and 4 are obtained according to the following protocol:
  • the base is mixed with the silicone oil
  • composition forming the pulverulent phase is added, and the mixture is placed in an extruder.
  • Example 5 The composition of Example 5 is obtained according to the protocol indicated above.
  • the blusher formulation that follows was prepared especially from a white base as follows, according to the protocol indicated for Examples 1 and 4:

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
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  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
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Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition de cosmétique solide pour le maquillage et/ou les soins sous la forme d'une poudre comprenant, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, au moins : - une phase grasse contenant au moins un polyamide-silicone et une résine de silicone, et - au moins une phase pulvérulente contenant au moins une poudre de polyuréthane.
PCT/IB2011/054048 2010-09-17 2011-09-16 Composition de cosmétique solide pour le maquillage WO2012035513A1 (fr)

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FR1057468A FR2964870B1 (fr) 2010-09-17 2010-09-17 Composition cosmetique solide de maquillage
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US39031210P 2010-10-06 2010-10-06
US61/390,312 2010-10-06

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WO2014087183A1 (fr) * 2012-12-04 2014-06-12 L'oreal Composition cosmétique pulvérulente solide
WO2018165434A1 (fr) 2017-03-08 2018-09-13 Dow Silicones Corporation Composition cosmétique de longue durée comprenant un élastomère de silicone

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KR20240016429A (ko) * 2021-06-08 2024-02-06 로레알 플레이크 타입의 알루미늄 안료 및 플레이크 타입의 흑색 안료를 포함하는 메이크업용 조성물
FR3124699B1 (fr) * 2021-07-05 2024-04-26 Oreal Composition pour le maquillage, comprenant des pigments d’aluminium de type paillettes et des pigments noirs de type paillettes

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2014087183A1 (fr) * 2012-12-04 2014-06-12 L'oreal Composition cosmétique pulvérulente solide
US10660827B2 (en) 2012-12-04 2020-05-26 L'oreal Solid powdery cosmetic composition
WO2018165434A1 (fr) 2017-03-08 2018-09-13 Dow Silicones Corporation Composition cosmétique de longue durée comprenant un élastomère de silicone
US10918587B2 (en) 2017-03-08 2021-02-16 Dow Silicones Corporation Long lasting cosmetic composition comprising silicone elastomer

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