WO2016117640A1 - メーキャップ化粧料 - Google Patents
メーキャップ化粧料 Download PDFInfo
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- WO2016117640A1 WO2016117640A1 PCT/JP2016/051682 JP2016051682W WO2016117640A1 WO 2016117640 A1 WO2016117640 A1 WO 2016117640A1 JP 2016051682 W JP2016051682 W JP 2016051682W WO 2016117640 A1 WO2016117640 A1 WO 2016117640A1
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- Prior art keywords
- oil
- cosmetic
- mass
- makeup
- particles
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/24—Phosphorous; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/27—Zinc; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/08—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for cheeks, e.g. rouge
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
- A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
- A61Q1/10—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for eyes, e.g. eyeliner, mascara
Definitions
- the present invention relates to makeup cosmetics that produce vivid fluorescence and have a clear feeling (clear feeling). More specifically, the present invention relates to a cosmetic color material in which a predetermined material, an oil-soluble dye, and an oil are combined, and a makeup cosmetic containing the same.
- Lip cosmetics such as lipstick and gloss that color the lips, and makeup cosmetics such as teak (eye blush) or eye shadow are cosmetics that exhibit an important cosmetic effect that changes the impression of the user's appearance. Color is one of the key elements in selecting a product.
- makeup cosmetics that are brightly colored and have a transparent (clear) impression have been demanded. For example, lipsticks exhibiting high-luminance fluorescent color development have attracted attention.
- makeup cosmetics are blended with an oily base material and a coloring material (coloring agent), but it is the coloring material that is responsible for coloring when applied to the lips and skin.
- Color materials blended in cosmetics include organic synthetic dyes (also called tar dyes) and inorganic pigments, organic synthetic dyes are classified into dyes and organic pigments, and organic pigments are further divided into pigment dyes themselves. It is classified into lakes in which water-soluble or sparingly soluble dyes are insolubilized (Non-patent Document 1).
- Patent Document 1 a fluorescent lame agent composed of a flaky powder having at least one resin layer dyed with a fluorescent dye or fluorescent pigment is added to the makeup cosmetic, whereby the fluorescent dye or fluorescent pigment is added to the cosmetic. It is disclosed that the uniformity and stability of the fluorescent color are improved as compared with the case where it is blended directly. However, it is considered that it is the pigment that determines the appearance color (Non-Patent Document 1), and usually 1% by mass or more of the pigment is blended to define the hiding power appearance color and exhibit the hiding power. .
- the cosmetic disclosed in Patent Document 1 is a cosmetic whose appearance has been arranged by blending a fluorescent lame agent containing a dye or pigment that fluorescently develops in the appearance color determined by the pigment, Dyes or pigments having such properties are used as raw materials for lame agents.
- Patent Document 2 focuses on oil-soluble dyes in the color development of lipstick cosmetics, but in order to solve the problem of causing rough lips and discoloration of the appearance color due to dyeing of oil-soluble dyes conventionally used. Further, only a technique for blending perfluoropolyether with an oil-soluble dye is disclosed, and no mention is made of fluorescence coloring by an oil-soluble dye.
- Patent Document 3 discloses a makeup cosmetic in which fluorescent coloring is produced by blending an oil-soluble dye that does not emit fluorescence when dissolved or dispersed alone in combination with a polyamide powder having a predetermined molecular weight and a predetermined particle size. (Including lipstick).
- cosmetics containing oil-soluble dyes and polyamide powder have a strong hiding power and lack transparency. That is, a makeup cosmetic that can produce a bright fluorescent color and can give a clear feeling (clear feeling) has not been obtained until now.
- JP 2004-346025 A Japanese Patent No. 3409191 Japanese Patent No. 5312738
- An object of the present invention is to provide a novel makeup cosmetic that can produce a bright fluorescent color and can give a clear feeling (clear feeling).
- the present inventors have determined that particles of a specific material selected from hydroxyapatite, calcium carbonate, metal oxide (however, excluding iron oxide), and silica and a specific material It has been found that a makeup cosmetic that exhibits a vivid fluorescent color and is excellent in transparency (clear feeling) can be obtained by blending with an oil-soluble dye in combination, and the present invention has been completed.
- the present invention comprises (A) one or more oil-soluble dyes selected from the group consisting of Red No. 218, Red No. 223 and Orange No. 201, (B) Hydroxyapatite, calcium carbonate, metal oxide ( (Except iron oxide), particles of a specific material selected from silica, and (C) a makeup cosmetic containing an oil component and having a pigment content of 0.5% by mass or less. Furthermore, this invention also provides the color material for makeup
- the cosmetic color material of the present invention contains the components (A), (B), and (C).
- the make-up cosmetic according to the present invention is a combination of a specific oil-soluble dye and particles of a specific material, which enables vivid fluorescent color development based on a fluorescent dye that originally does not generate fluorescent color.
- the makeup cosmetic according to the present invention can give a clear fluorescence (clear feeling) while vividly developing a fluorescent color by suppressing the blending amount of the pigment to a predetermined value or less.
- the present invention is described in detail below.
- Makeup cosmetics The makeup cosmetics of the present invention are made of (A) oil-soluble dyes, (B) hydroxyapatite, calcium carbonate, metal oxides (except iron oxide), and specific materials selected from silica. It contains particles and (C) oil as essential components.
- Oil-soluble dye (component A) blended in the makeup cosmetic of the present invention is selected from oil-soluble dyes among colorants called organic synthetic pigments in the field of cosmetics.
- An oil-soluble dye comprising a fluorescein derivative, among which one or more selected from red 218 (tetrachlorotetrabromofluorescein), red 223 (tetrabromofluorescein), and orange 201 (dibromofluorescein) .
- the blending amount of the oil-soluble dye (component A) in the makeup cosmetic is preferably 0.0001 to 5.0 mass%, more preferably 0.001 to 3.0 mass%, based on the entire cosmetic.
- Particles of Specific Material Component B blended in the makeup cosmetic of the present invention is particles of a specific material selected from hydroxyapatite, calcium carbonate, metal oxide (excluding iron oxide), and silica. .
- the particles of the specific material (component B) used in the makeup cosmetic of the present invention are preferably solid, especially powder.
- the shape and particle size of the particles are not particularly limited, and can be selected from those usually blended in cosmetics.
- plate shapes including flake shapes, thin plate shapes, scale shapes, leaf pieces shapes, mica shapes, foil shapes, etc.
- spherical shapes including flake shapes, thin plate shapes, scale shapes, leaf pieces shapes, mica shapes, foil shapes, etc.
- spherical shapes columnar shapes, massive shapes, and the like are included.
- Hydroxyapatite Hydroxyapatite (sometimes abbreviated as “HAP”) is a calcium phosphate compound having an apatite structure, and has the following general formula: It has a structure represented by In conventional cosmetics, it is a component used as a polishing / scrub agent, a bulking agent and the like.
- the plate-like hydroxyapatite powder suitable for the present invention is a plate-like hydroxyapatite powder having an average particle size of 1 to 100 ⁇ m by laser diffraction method and a ratio of long side length to thickness (aspect ratio) of 2 to 200. It is done.
- Examples of the bulk hydroxyapatite powder suitable for the present invention include “KC-apatite” (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.).
- Calcium carbonate Calcium carbonate is a calcium carbonate salt (CaCO 3 ), and is a component used as a polishing / scrub agent, a buffering agent, a bulking agent, an opacifying agent and the like in conventional cosmetics. .
- the calcium carbonate powder includes heavy calcium carbonate powder obtained by mechanically pulverizing limestone and light calcium carbonate (precipitated calcium carbonate) produced by a chemical method, which is used in the present invention.
- a light calcium carbonate spherical powder having an average particle size of about 1 to 30 ⁇ m, more preferably 1 to 20 ⁇ m, and still more preferably 1 to 10 ⁇ m is preferably used.
- Examples of commercially available spherical calcium carbonate powder suitable for the present invention include “Karumaru SCS-M5 (average particle size 5 ⁇ m)” and “Karumaru SCS-M2 (average particle size 2 ⁇ m)” (both are Sakai Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.). Manufactured).
- the metal oxide used as Component B of the present invention is conventionally used as a white pigment or an ultraviolet scattering agent such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, aluminum oxide (alumina), and zirconium oxide. It does not contain iron oxide, which is a coloring pigment. Titanium oxide may be a rutile type or anatase type, and zinc oxide includes those produced by a dry method or a wet method.
- the particles of metal oxide (excluding iron oxide) in the present invention are preferably particles having an average particle diameter of 5 to 200 nm, more preferably 5 to 100 nm.
- the average particle size of the silica particles in the present invention is preferably 0.05 to 10 ⁇ m, more preferably 0.05 to 5 ⁇ m.
- porous silica particles used in the present invention for example, commercially available products such as Satinier M-5 (manufactured by JGC Catalysts & Chemicals Co., Ltd.) can be used.
- particles (component B) of the specific material in the present invention particles comprising only one kind of material selected from the hydroxyapatite, calcium carbonate, metal oxide (except iron oxide), and silica may be used.
- particles obtained by coating the surface of extender pigments such as talc, mica, and sericite with the specific material may be used.
- the particles of the specific material may be blended with one kind of particles of the specific material, or may be blended by combining two or more kinds of particles of the specific material.
- the blending amount of the particles (component B) of the specific material in the makeup cosmetic of the present invention is preferably 0.001 to 30% by mass, more preferably 0.01 to 10% by mass, and still more preferably based on the total cosmetic. 0.01 to 3% by mass, most preferably 0.01 to 1% by mass.
- Oil content (component C) blended in the makeup cosmetic of the present invention can be selected from oil components that are usually blended in makeup cosmetics.
- oils that can be blended include the following, but are not limited thereto.
- Solid oils include solid fats, waxes, hydrocarbons, and higher alcohols.
- solid fats such as owl, cacao butter, hydrogenated castor oil; waxes such as carnauba wax, beeswax, candelilla wax, jojoba wax: hydrocarbon waxes such as polyethylene wax, paraffin wax, ceresin and microcrystalline wax
- a higher alcohol such as behenyl alcohol, cetanol or batyl alcohol; a silicon wax or the like.
- Liquid oils include olive oil, avocado oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, evening primrose oil, jojoba oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, castor oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, tea seed oil, rice bran oil, germ Liquid oils such as oil; hydrocarbon oils such as squalane and liquid paraffin; isocetyl isostearate, cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2heptylundecyl palmitate, diisobutyl adipate, 2-hexyldecyl sebacate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl oleate, diisostearyl malate, ethylene glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, glyceride tri-2-heptylundecanoate, glyceryl diisostearate, glyceryl triisost
- the makeup cosmetic of the present invention preferably contains an ester oil as the oil (component C).
- an ester oil having a refractive index of 1.45 or more and a viscosity of 1,000 cps or more such as distearyl malate.
- polyglyceryl-2 isostearate reffractive index: 1.47; viscosity 6,540
- ditrimethylolpropane oligoester reffractive index: 1 .47; viscosity 2,380
- the makeup cosmetics of the present invention inhibit other effects (hereinafter also referred to as “optional components”) that are usually blended in makeup cosmetics to inhibit the effects of the invention. It can mix
- optional ingredients include colorants for makeup cosmetics, ingredients constituting the oily base material, and other optional ingredients.
- Organic dyes selected from organic dyes (excluding oil-soluble dyes of component A) and organic pigments (including pigment dyes and lakes), natural dyes, and inorganic pigments as components constituting the colorant (Colored pigments such as bengara, yellow iron oxide, ultramarine blue, etc .; except for white pigments (metal oxides) corresponding to component B).
- the blending amount of pigments is 0.5% by mass or less based on the entire cosmetics. Is preferable, and it is more preferable to set it as 0.4 mass% or less.
- an oil thickener or a gelling agent As a component constituting the oily base material, an oil thickener or a gelling agent can be mentioned.
- oil thickeners include dextrin fatty acid esters, glycerin fatty acid esters, and organically modified clay minerals.
- dextrin fatty acid esters include dextrin myristate, dextrin palmitate, (palmitic acid / 2-ethylhexanoic acid) dextrin, and the like.
- the glycerin fatty acid ester include glyceryl behenate, glyceryl octastearate, glyceryl eicoate and the like.
- optional components include functional pigments such as UV absorbers, surfactants, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives, polyhydric alcohols, lower alcohols, inorganic powders (external pigments, pearlescent pigments, photochromic pigments, etc. ; Except for silica particles corresponding to component B), organic powder, and various active ingredients.
- the extender pigment whose surface is coated with a specific material selected from hydroxyapatite, calcium carbonate, metal oxide (excluding iron oxide) and silica of component B belongs to component B and is an optional component. It is excluded from the extender pigment.
- the amount of these optional components is appropriately adjusted according to the form and function of the makeup cosmetic.
- the makeup cosmetic of the present invention may contain a small amount of water, but it is preferable to reduce the blending amount from the viewpoint of color stability over time. Therefore, the amount of water in the makeup cosmetic of the present invention is less than 1.5% by mass, preferably 1.0% by mass or less.
- the makeup cosmetic of the present invention exhibits an unprecedented unique effect of being excellent in transparency (clear feeling) while producing bright fluorescent color with high brightness. Therefore, the makeup cosmetics of the present invention are particularly suitable for lip cosmetics such as lipstick and gloss, point makeup cosmetics such as teak and eye shadow, especially oily makeup cosmetics. Note that lip balms, makeup bases, and foundations that are not mainly used for color development are not included in the makeup cosmetics of the present invention.
- the makeup cosmetic of the present invention can be produced according to a method widely used for conventional makeup cosmetics. That is, the essential components (A) to (C) and optional components can be mixed, stirred and mixed using a homomixer or the like while being heated, poured into a mold and cooled.
- components (A) to (C), which are essential components are stirred and mixed in advance to obtain a cosmetic color material, which is used together with the other components to produce a makeup cosmetic according to the general-purpose method.
- Cosmetic color material also provides a cosmetic color material particularly suitable for blending in the above makeup cosmetic.
- the cosmetic color material of the present invention comprises at least one specific material selected from oil-soluble dyes ("Component A”), hydroxyapatite, calcium carbonate, metal oxide (except iron oxide), and silica. Particles (“Component B”) and oil (“Component C”) are included.
- the blending amount of the oil-soluble dye (component A) in the cosmetic color material of the present invention is preferably 0.0002 to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.0005 to 8% by mass, based on the entire color material. is there.
- the blending amount of particles (component B) of at least one specific material selected from hydroxyapatite, calcium carbonate, metal oxide (excluding iron oxide) and silica in the cosmetic color material of the present invention is as follows:
- the content is preferably 0.002 to 60% by mass, more preferably 0.005 to 50% by mass, still more preferably 0.01 to 6% by mass, and most preferably 0.02 to 3% by mass. is there.
- the oil component constituting the cosmetic color material of the present invention may be a part or all of the oil component (component C) blended in the makeup cosmetic of the present invention.
- the oil-soluble dye (component A) is added. It is selected from oils that can be dissolved or dispersed.
- oils suitable for the coloring material of the present invention include paraffin, squalane, isoparaffin, dimethicone, methylphenylpolysiloxane, dimer dilinoleate (isostearyl / phytosteryl), dimer dilinoleate (phytosteryl / behenyl).
- Lauroylglutamate di (phytosteryl / octyldodecyl), glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate, glyceryl triisostearate, glyceryl tri (hydrogenated rosin / isostearic acid), diisostearyl malate, pentaerythrityl tetraylhexanoate , But not limited to, dipentaerythrityl hexahydroxystearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, and the like.
- the blending amount of the oil in the cosmetic color material of the present invention is preferably 30 to 99.99978% by mass, more preferably 42 to 99.9945% by mass, and still more preferably 80 to 99.50% by mass. . Moreover, you may contain the said oil thickener (gelling agent) etc. as needed.
- the cosmetic color material of the present invention preferably occupies 10 to 60% by mass, preferably 20 to 50% by mass, in a makeup cosmetic that blends it and produces a fluorescent color.
- the color material of the present invention is produced, for example, by dissolving or dispersing an oil-soluble dye (component A) in an oil component (component C), adding particles of a specific material (component B), and stirring and mixing while heating. can do.
- the heating temperature is preferably in the range of 80 ° C to 140 ° C, more preferably 90 ° C to 130 ° C, still more preferably 100 ° C to 120 ° C. That is, in the makeup material containing the coloring material and coloring material of the present invention, the (A) oil-soluble dye and the (B) particles of the specific material exist in a state of being directly dissolved or dispersed in the oil. For example, it can be clearly distinguished from a cosmetic formulated with an oil-soluble dye supported on a solid carrier (particles).
- a compounding quantity represents the mass% with respect to the whole quantity.
- Lipstick cosmetics were prepared with the compositions listed in Tables 1 and 2 below.
- the lipstick cosmetics in each example were prepared by the following two methods. (Production method 1) The ingredients listed in each table were heated to 80 to 140 ° C, stirred, mixed and degassed, then filled into a lipstick container and cooled to 5 ° C.
- Oil content in Table 1, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, methylphenyl silicone; in Table 2, polyethylene, microcrystalline wax, diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone), oil solubility Dye and hydroxyapatite, calcium carbonate, metal oxide (except iron oxide) or silica particles or nylon powder are used to dissolve or disperse the dye in oil, hydroxyapatite, calcium carbonate, metal oxide
- a cosmetic colorant was prepared by adding (excluding iron oxide) or silica particles or nylon powder and stirring and mixing while heating to 100 to 120 ° C. Thereafter, the obtained cosmetic colorant and the remaining components were stirred, mixed, defoamed while being heated to 80 to 140 ° C., and cooled to 5 ° C.
- the evaluation results according to the above criteria are ranked as follows, and the results of each example are also shown in Table 1.
- Examples 1 to 4 containing specific oil-soluble dyes (component A) and particles of specific materials (component B) are clear regardless of the production method. Fluorescent color was observed, and the transparency (clear feeling) was excellent. However, the fluorescent color was more vivid when produced according to Production Method 2. Further, even when a small amount (1% by mass) of water was blended, the stability of the color having no practical problem was shown (Example 5).
- Comparative Example 1 in which nylon powder was blended in place of the particles of the specific material was inferior in fluorescent coloration and could not obtain a clear feeling (clear feeling) even when either Production Method 1 or Production Method 2 was used. Further, Comparative Example 2 in which the organic pigment (Red No. 202) was added in an amount exceeding 0.5% by mass not only did not give a clear feeling (clear feeling) but also prevented fluorescent color development. On the other hand, the color change was remarkable in the comparative example 3 which mix
- Table 2 shows Examples 6 to 13 in which the combinations and blending amounts of (A) oil-soluble dye and (B) specific material particles were changed. As is apparent from the evaluation results shown in Table 2, the cosmetics of Examples 6 to 13 were satisfactory in both fluorescent color development and transparency (clear feeling).
- Formulation Example 1 Lip gloss Blending ingredients Blending amount (% by mass) 1. Liquid paraffin 10.0 2. Polyisobutene 10.0 3. Diisostearyl malate 10.0 4). Dextrin palmitate 10.0 5. Plate-like hydroxyapatite (a) 1.0 6). Orange 201 No.0.2 7). Iron oxide 0.1 8). Red No. 202 0.1 9. Mica titanium 2.0 10. Tocopherol appropriate amount11. Perfume appropriate amount 12. Diphenylsiloxyphenyl trimethicone Residue (a) “Plate HAP-SC” (manufactured by Taihei Chemical Industrial Co., Ltd.)
- Formulation Example 2 Eye shadow Blending component Blending amount (mass%) 1. Talc remaining 2. Mica 20.0 3. Boron nitride 10.0 4). Synthetic mica 10.0 5. Titanium oxide coated mica 5.0 6). Iron oxide 2.0 7). Squalane 2.0 8). Diethylpolysiloxane 2.0 9. Sorbitan monooleate 0.5 10. Red 218 0.01 11. Calcium carbonate (b) 1.5 12 Preservative appropriate amount13. Perfume appropriate amount (b) "Karumaru SCS-M5" (manufactured by Sakai Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.)
- Formulation Example 3 Teak Ingredient Ingredient Ingredient Amount (mass%) 1. Talc remaining 2. Polymethyl methacrylate 1.0 3. Silica 2.0 4). Boron nitride 3.0 5. Mica 10.0 6). Isoparaffin 3.0 7). Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 1.0 8). Sorbitan monooleate 1.0 9. Iron oxide 3.0 10. Red 223 0.1 11. Red 218 0.02 12 Bulky hydroxyapatite (c) 3.0 13 Preservative appropriate amount14. Perfume appropriate amount (c) "KC-apatite" (manufactured by Sumitomo Chemical Co., Ltd.)
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Abstract
Description
しかし、外観色を決定するのは顔料であると考えられており(非特許文献1)、通常は1質量%以上の顔料が配合され、隠蔽力外観色を定めると共に隠蔽力が発揮されている。特許文献1に開示される化粧料も、顔料によって定められた外観色に蛍光発色する染料又は顔料を含む蛍光ラメ剤を配合することにより外観をアレンジした化粧料であると解され、本来蛍光発色する性質を有する染料又は顔料がラメ剤の原料として用いられている。
即ち、鮮やかな蛍光発色が可能で、なおかつ透明感(クリア感)を与えることのできるメーキャップ化粧料は今日まで得られていなかった。
さらに本発明は、前記メーキャップ化粧料に配合される化粧用色材も提供する。本発明の化粧用色材は、前記成分(A)、(B)及び(C)を含む。
(1)メーキャップ化粧料
本発明のメーキャップ化粧料は、(A)油溶性染料、(B)ヒドロキシアパタイト、炭酸カルシウム、金属酸化物(ただし酸化鉄は除く)、及びシリカから選択される特定材料の粒子、及び(C)油分を必須成分として含有する。
本発明のメーキャップ化粧料に配合される油溶性染料(成分A)は、化粧料の分野において有機合成色素と呼ばれる色材の中で油溶性の染料から選択され、特に、フルオレセイン誘導体からなる油溶性染料、中でも、赤色218号(テトラクロロテトラブロモフルオレセイン)、赤色223号(テトラブロモフルオレセイン)、及び橙色201号(ジブロモフルオレセイン)から選択される1種又は2種以上である。
本発明のメーキャップ化粧料に配合される成分Bは、ヒドロキシアパタイト、炭酸カルシウム、金属酸化物(ただし酸化鉄は除く)、及びシリカから選択される特定材料の粒子である。
ヒドロキシアパタイト(「HAP」と略記される場合もある)は、アパタイト構造のリン酸カルシウム化合物であり、以下の一般式:
炭酸カルシウムは炭酸のカルシウム塩(CaCO3)であり、従来の化粧料においては研磨・スクラブ剤、緩衝剤、増量剤、不透明化剤などとして使用されている成分である。
本発明の成分Bとして用いられる金属酸化物は、酸化チタン、酸化亜鉛、酸化アルミニウム(アルミナ)、酸化ジルコニウムなどの、従来は白色顔料あるいは紫外線散乱剤として用いられている成分であり、着色顔料である酸化鉄は含まない。
酸化チタンは、ルチル型でもアナターゼ型でもよく、酸化亜鉛は乾式法又は湿式法で製造されたものを含む。
本発明の成分Bとして用いられるシリカ(無水ケイ酸)は、多孔質のシリカ粒子が好ましく用いられる。
本発明におけるシリカ粒子の平均粒径は、0.05~10μmが好ましく、0.05~5μmがより好ましい。
本発明のメーキャップ化粧料に配合される油分(成分C)は、メーキャップ化粧料に通常配合される油性成分から選択することができ。配合可能な油分として以下のものが例示できるが、これらに限定されるものではない。
任意成分には、メーキャップ化粧料の色材、油性基材を構成する成分及びその他の任意成分が含まれる。
なお、本発明のメーキャップ化粧料において優れた透明感(クリア感)を演出するために、顔料(有機顔料及び無機顔料)の配合量は化粧料全体に対して0.5質量%以下とするのが好ましく、0.4質量%以下とするのが更に好ましい。
油分増粘剤(ゲル化剤)としては、デキストリン脂肪酸エステル、グリセリン脂肪酸エステル、有機変性粘土鉱物等が例示できる。デキストリン脂肪酸エステルには、例えば、ミリスチン酸デキストリン、パルミチン酸デキストリン、(パルミチン酸/2-エチルヘキサン酸)デキストリン等が含まれる。グリセリン脂肪酸エステルには、例えば、ベヘン酸グリセリル、オクタステアリン酸グリセリル、エイコ酸グリセリル等が含まれる。
なお、本発明においては、成分Bのヒドロキシアパタイト、炭酸カルシウム、金属酸化物(ただし酸化鉄は除く)、及びシリカから選択される特定材料で表面被覆された体質顔料は成分Bに属し、任意成分の体質顔料から除外されるものとする。
本発明のメーキャップ化粧料は、少量の水は含んでいてもよいが、経時的な色の安定性の観点から、その配合量を少なくするのが好ましい。従って、本発明のメーキャップ化粧料における水の配合量は1.5質量%未満、好ましくは1.0質量%以下とする。
本発明は、上記のメーキャップ化粧料に配合するのに特に適した化粧用色材も提供する。本発明の化粧用色材は、油溶性染料(前記「成分A」)、ヒドロキシアパタイト、炭酸カルシウム、金属酸化物(ただし酸化鉄は除く)、及びシリカから選択される少なくとも1種の特定材料の粒子(前記「成分B」)及び油分(前記「成分C」)を含む。
また、必要に応じて、前記油分増粘剤(ゲル化剤)などを含有していてもよい。
本発明の化粧用色材は、それを配合して蛍光発色するメーキャップ化粧料において10~60質量%、好ましくは20~50質量%を占めるようにするのが好ましい。
即ち、本発明の色材及び色材を配合したメーキャップ化粧料においては、(A)油溶性染料及び(B)特定材料の粒子は、油分中に直接溶解又は分散された状態で存在しており、例えば、油溶性染料を固体担体(粒子)に担持させた状態で配合した化粧料とは明確に区別され得る。
下記の表1及び2に掲げた組成で口紅化粧料を調製した。
各例の口紅化粧料は以下の2通りの製法で調製した。
(製法1)各表に掲げた配合成分を80~140℃に加熱し、攪拌、混合、脱泡した後、口紅容器に充填し、5℃まで冷却した。
(製法2)各表に掲げた成分のうち、油分(表1においては、パラフィン、マイクロクリスタリンワックス、メチルフェニルシリコーン;表2においては、ポリエチレン、マイクロクリスタリンワックス、ジフェニルシロキシフェニルトリメチコン)、油溶性染料、及び、ヒドロキシアパタイト、炭酸カルシウム、金属酸化物(酸化鉄を除く)又はシリカの粒子あるいはナイロン粉末の各全量を用い、油分に染料を溶解又は分散し、ヒドロキシアパタイト、炭酸カルシウム、金属酸化物(酸化鉄を除く)又はシリカの粒子あるいはナイロン粉末を添加して100~120℃に加熱しながら攪拌混合して化粧用色材を調製した。その後、得られた化粧用色材と残り成分を80~140℃に加熱しながら攪拌、混合、脱泡し、5℃まで冷却した。
(1)蛍光発色
顕著な蛍光発色が見られる:4
蛍光発色が見られる:3
発色は見られるが蛍光発色ではない:2
発色が見られない:1
顕著な透明感(クリア感)がある:4
透明感(クリア感)がある:3
透明感(クリア感)が僅かに感じられる:2
透明感(クリア感)が無い(隠蔽感が強い):1
A:評価点合計が35~40
(蛍光発色については、合計点35~37をA-;合計点38~40をA+に分類した。)
B:評価点合計が25~34
C:評価点合計が15~24
D:評価点合計が10~14
表1の組成については、調製した化粧料を室温で保存した場合の色の変化を目視観察により評価した。
A:色の変化が全く見られなかった。
B:若干の色の変化がみられたが実用上は問題ない程度であった。
C:顕著な色の変化が見られた。
処方例1:リップグロス
配合成分 配合量(質量%)
1.流動パラフィン 10.0
2.ポリイソブテン 10.0
3.リンゴ酸ジイソステアリル 10.0
4.パルミチン酸デキストリン 10.0
5.板状ヒドロキシアパタイト(a) 1.0
6.橙色201号 0.2
7.酸化鉄 0.1
8.赤色202号 0.1
9.雲母チタン 2.0
10.トコフェロール 適量
11.香料 適量
12.ジフェニルシロキシフェニルトリメチコン 残余
(a)「板状HAP-SC」(太平化学産業社製)
配合成分1~5及び8の各全量を、100~120℃に加熱しながら攪拌混合して化粧用色材を調製した。その後、得られた化粧用色材と残り成分(6、7及び9~12)を80~140℃に加熱しながら攪拌、混合、脱泡し、冷却した。
配合成分 配合量(質量%)
1.タルク 残余
2.マイカ 20.0
3.窒化ホウ素 10.0
4.合成マイカ 10.0
5.酸化チタン被覆雲母 5.0
6.酸化鉄 2.0
7.スクワラン 2.0
8.ジエチルポリシロキサン 2.0
9.モノオレイン酸ソルビタン 0.5
10.赤色218号 0.01
11.炭酸カルシウム(b) 1.5
12.防腐剤 適量
13.香料 適量
(b)「かるまるSCS-M5」(堺化学工業社製)
配合成分1~6、12及び13を粉砕混合したところへ、7~11を100~120℃で加熱混合して化粧用色材としたものを加え、中皿に成型してアイシャドーを得た。
配合成分 配合量(質量%)
1.タルク 残余
2.ポリメタクリル酸メチル 1.0
3.シリカ 2.0
4.窒化ホウ素 3.0
5.マイカ 10.0
6.イソパラフィン 3.0
7.トリ2-エチルヘキサン酸グリセリル 1.0
8.モノオレイン酸ソルビタン 1.0
9.酸化鉄 3.0
10.赤色223号 0.1
11.赤色218号 0.02
12.塊状ヒドロキシアパタイト(c) 3.0
13.防腐剤 適量
14.香料 適量
(c)「KC-アパタイト」(住友化学社製)
配合成分1~5、9、13及び14を粉砕混合したところへ、6~8及び10~12を100~120℃で加熱混合して化粧用色材としたものを加え、中皿に成型してチークを得た。
Claims (6)
- (A)赤色218号、赤色223号及び橙色201号からなる群から選択される油溶性染料の1種又は2種以上、
(B)ヒドロキシアパタイト、炭酸カルシウム、金属酸化物(ただし酸化鉄は除く)、及びシリカから選択される特定材料の粒子、及び
(C)油分を含み、
顔料の配合量が0.5質量%以下であり、
水の配合量が1.5質量%未満であることを特徴とするメーキャップ化粧料。 - 前記(B)特定材料の粒子が、ヒドロキシアパタイト板状粉末、ヒドロキシアパタイト塊状粉末、炭酸カルシウム球状粉末、酸化チタン粉末、酸化亜鉛粉末、及びシリカ粉末から選択される、請求項1に記載のメーキャップ化粧料。
- 前記(A)油溶性染料の配合量が化粧料全体に対して0.0001~5質量%であり、前記(B)特定材料の粒子の配合量が化粧料全体に対して0.001~30質量%である、請求項1又は2に記載のメーキャップ化粧料。
- 口唇化粧料である、請求項1から3のいずれか一項に記載のメーキャップ化粧料。
- (A)赤色218号、赤色223号及び橙色201号からなる群から選択される油溶性染料の1種又は2種以上を0.0002~10質量%、
(B)ヒドロキシアパタイト、炭酸カルシウム、金属酸化物(ただし酸化鉄は除く)、及びシリカから選択される特定材料の粒子を0.002~60質量%、及び
(C)油分を30~99.9978質量%含むことを特徴とする、メーキャップ化粧料用色材。 - 請求項5に記載の色材を含むメーキャップ化粧料。
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