WO2016107990A1 - Procede de fabrication d'un article chaussant, article chaussant obtenu par ce procede, et machine servant a la fabrication d'un article chaussant - Google Patents

Procede de fabrication d'un article chaussant, article chaussant obtenu par ce procede, et machine servant a la fabrication d'un article chaussant Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2016107990A1
WO2016107990A1 PCT/FR2015/000220 FR2015000220W WO2016107990A1 WO 2016107990 A1 WO2016107990 A1 WO 2016107990A1 FR 2015000220 W FR2015000220 W FR 2015000220W WO 2016107990 A1 WO2016107990 A1 WO 2016107990A1
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
manufacturing
shape
machine
envelope
hot pressing
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/FR2015/000220
Other languages
English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Béatrice BOUCHER
Gérard GAUTIER
Original Assignee
Salomon S.A.S.
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Salomon S.A.S. filed Critical Salomon S.A.S.
Priority to US15/540,926 priority Critical patent/US20170340064A1/en
Priority to EP15823608.3A priority patent/EP3240449A1/fr
Priority to CA2971000A priority patent/CA2971000A1/fr
Priority to CN201580071855.6A priority patent/CN107105822A/zh
Publication of WO2016107990A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016107990A1/fr

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0245Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
    • A43B23/0255Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form assembled by gluing or thermo bonding
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0205Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
    • A43B23/0215Plastics or artificial leather
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0205Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the material
    • A43B23/024Different layers of the same material
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/0245Uppers; Boot legs characterised by the constructive form
    • A43B23/026Laminated layers
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B23/00Uppers; Boot legs; Stiffeners; Other single parts of footwear
    • A43B23/02Uppers; Boot legs
    • A43B23/04Uppers made of one piece; Uppers with inserted gussets
    • A43B23/042Uppers made of one piece
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43BCHARACTERISTIC FEATURES OF FOOTWEAR; PARTS OF FOOTWEAR
    • A43B5/00Footwear for sporting purposes
    • A43B5/06Running shoes; Track shoes
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43DMACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D25/00Devices for gluing shoe parts
    • A43D25/20Arrangements for activating or for accelerating setting of adhesives, e.g. by using heat
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A43FOOTWEAR
    • A43DMACHINES, TOOLS, EQUIPMENT OR METHODS FOR MANUFACTURING OR REPAIRING FOOTWEAR
    • A43D3/00Lasts
    • A43D3/02Lasts for making or repairing shoes
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29DPRODUCING PARTICULAR ARTICLES FROM PLASTICS OR FROM SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE
    • B29D35/00Producing footwear
    • B29D35/0054Producing footwear by compression moulding, vulcanising or the like; Apparatus therefor
    • BPERFORMING OPERATIONS; TRANSPORTING
    • B29WORKING OF PLASTICS; WORKING OF SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE IN GENERAL
    • B29DPRODUCING PARTICULAR ARTICLES FROM PLASTICS OR FROM SUBSTANCES IN A PLASTIC STATE
    • B29D35/00Producing footwear
    • B29D35/12Producing parts thereof, e.g. soles, heels, uppers, by a moulding technique
    • B29D35/126Uppers

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a method of manufacturing an article of footwear, which comprises synthetic materials.
  • the invention also relates to an article of footwear obtained by the method, as well as to a machine used for the manufacture of the article of footwear.
  • the upper generally comprises a number of parts, such as a side section, a medial area, a vamp, a tongue, a heel, a rear buttress, a front protection cap, a tightening device including passers-by and a lace, a lining. internal, or even other parts. In addition, some of these may include several parts.
  • the main problem in a traditional shoe is to assemble and put in a three-dimensional shape pieces cut and assembled flat.
  • the rod is associated, in known manner, with a mounting flange, to delimit a footwear element.
  • the rod is glued to the mounting flange by a layer of glue.
  • the mounting flange also called the first mounting, is relatively rigid, to resist the mounting process.
  • the gluing is done by pulling the rod to press it on the first of assembly, knowing that a form is inserted in the stem. This is called traditional form fitting. This technique allows to exert sufficient pressure during the heating of the glue, to obtain the footwear element.
  • a second method is to achieve the footwear element by joining the rod to the first mounting by means of a seam.
  • This is called the Strobel assembly.
  • the first assembly is here a flexible sole, which can be sewn, called Strobel sole.
  • the first assembly is part of the assembly.
  • the latter further comprises external parts, such as one or more damping layers, as well as a wear layer, provided for contacting the ground, which are generally fixed by gluing on the first mounting and on the rod mounted on form .
  • the sole comprises one or more inner layers, disposed in the footwear element, to perform protective functions in terms of hygiene, damping, arch support, or other.
  • the combination of the footwear element with the other components of the sole formation form the shoe.
  • a traditional shoe has certain disadvantages.
  • the shoe uses a large number of pieces, generally between forty and sixty. Because the number of pieces constituting the shoe is high, the number of manufacturing operations and the time required to conduct them are high. It usually takes forty minutes to an hour and thirty minutes to make a shoe.
  • shoes made according to classical techniques are complicated, both by the number of their constituents and by the number of manufacturing operations.
  • the applicant has proposed a new mode of construction of shoes, wherein the article of footwear comprises a first envelope, the first envelope extending in length from a rear end to a front end, in width between a lateral edge and a media edge I, and in height from a bottom to an upper end, the first envelope comprising son mechanically connected to each other, at least a portion of the son comprising at least one hot melt filament.
  • the yarns which comprise at least one hot-melt filament are distributed over the entire first envelope, and the shape of the first envelope is fixed by melting the yarns which comprise at least one hot-melt filament.
  • the first envelope can be shaped to have a geometry very similar to that of a foot, and that it therefore marries the foot very homogeneously.
  • An advantage that arises is increased comfort of the footwear according to the new construction method, compared to a traditional shoe.
  • the first envelope has a continuity of structure, in the sense that its inner surface and / or its external surface are essentially regular. Physical properties of the first envelope may vary according to areas of the latter, for example bending. As a result, the user is less embarrassed.
  • the synthesis of the above shows that the first envelope maintains the foot and provides a satisfactory comfort.
  • the first envelope is able to marry the deformations of the foot. This makes the footwear comfortable in any situation, whether static or dynamic.
  • a further consequence of the new construction mode is the reduced number of pieces to manufacture the footwear, even if it can be provided with some additional parts.
  • the first envelope alone is a minimalist set compared to a traditional footwear item.
  • the first envelope of the new construction mode is a single piece that replaces, alone, at least side and medial quarters, a vamp, a tab, a rear buttress, a first assembly, or even other parts. As a corollary, the new construction mode considerably reduces the number of manufacturing operations and the time required to carry them out.
  • the footwear is much simpler, in every sense of the term, a traditional shoe.
  • the structural simplicity of the new construction method does not reduce the number of technical functions performed by the footwear, compared to a traditional shoe.
  • the simplicity of structure is a source of technical improvements, in quality and quantity.
  • the new construction method is therefore advantageous and promising.
  • the general object of the invention is to further improve the manufacture of an article of footwear which comprises at least one envelope, for which the shape of at least one envelope is fixed by external heating.
  • the invention aims in particular to further improve the quality, in the sense that the manufacturing defects must be absent very widely or totally.
  • the invention also aims that the manufacturing process is even simpler, faster and economical.
  • the invention proposes a method of manufacturing an article of footwear, the article of footwear comprising at least one envelope whose shape is fixed by external heating, the manufacturing method comprising a reference step in which a first envelope is placed in place on a form, the first envelope comprising at least one at least partly thermofusible or thermoformable material, the shape extending in length from a rear end to a front end, in width between a lateral edge and a medial edge , and in height from a base to a top.
  • the manufacturing method according to the invention is characterized in that it comprises at least one manufacturing step, subsequent to the reference step, the manufacturing step comprising at least one hot pressing operation of at least a portion of the surface of the first envelope disposed on the form.
  • the first envelope comprises wires connected to each other mechanically.
  • the first envelope is hot pressed.
  • This causes, for example, a change of state and / or a bonding of the hot-melt or thermoformable material or materials, at the same time as the pressurization, of at least a portion of the first envelope.
  • One of the effects produced is that this part retains the geometry of the pressed part of the shape, or even of the entire shape in the case where one or hot pressures are exerted everywhere.
  • the footwear acquires its final geometric appearance directly during hot pressing.
  • the advantages that ensue include the simplicity and speed of manufacture, or the low cost of the item.
  • the invention proposes a machine for manufacturing an article of footwear, the machine comprising at least one manufacturing station arranged to perform at least one manufacturing operation on a form, the shape extending in length from a rear end to a front end, in width between a lateral edge and a medial edge, and in height from a base to a top.
  • the machine according to the invention is characterized in that the manufacturing operation comprises a step of pressurizing at least a portion of the surface of the form.
  • the machine implements the evoked method, in the sense that the first envelope placed on the form is hot pressed during the pressure of the form. This again causes, for example, a change of state and / or a bond, at the same time as the pressurization, of at least a part of the first envelope.
  • This part retains the geometry of the pressed part of the shape, or even of the entire shape in the case where one or hot pressures are exerted everywhere.
  • the machine gives the article of footwear its final geometrical appearance directly during hot pressing.
  • FIG. 1 is a front perspective view of an article of footwear, obtained by the manufacturing method according to the invention
  • FIG. 2 is a schematic perspective view of a blank used to manufacture a first envelope and a second envelope of the article of footwear according to FIG. 1
  • FIG. 3 is a front perspective view of a reinforcement intended to be integrated. to the article of footwear according to FIG.
  • FIG. 4 is a schematic view relating to the constitution of an envelope of the article of footwear according to FIG. 1,
  • FIG. 5 is another schematic view relating to the constitution of an envelope of the article of footwear according to FIG. 1,
  • FIG. 6 is another schematic view relating to the constitution of an envelope of the article of footwear according to FIG. 1,
  • FIG. 7 is a side view which relates to the manufacture of the article of footwear according to FIG. 1,
  • FIG. 8 is a perspective view which relates to the manufacture of the article of footwear according to FIG. 1
  • FIG. 9 is another perspective view which relates to the manufacture of the article of footwear according to FIG. 1
  • FIG. 10 is a diagrammatic view from above of a manufacturing station of a machine, for implementing the method according to the invention, the station being arranged to carry out a hot pressing operation of the end back of a shape, as well as a hot pressurizing operation of the front end of the form,
  • FIG. 11 is a schematic view of one side of the station according to FIG. 10,
  • FIG. 12 is a schematic view on another side of the station according to FIG. 10,
  • FIG. 13 is an enlarged partial view of FIG. 11, in a case of absence of pressure exerted on the shape,
  • FIG. 14 is similar to FIG. 13, in a case where pressure is exerted on the form
  • FIG. 15 is a schematic side view of another machine manufacturing station, the station being arranged to carry out an operation. hot pressurizing a lateral edge of the form, as well as an operation of pressurizing a medial edge of the shape under heat,
  • FIG. 16 is a diagrammatic view on another side of the station according to FIG. 15;
  • FIG. 17 is an enlarged partial view of FIG. 15, in a case of absence of pressure exerted on the shape;
  • FIG. 18 is similar to FIG. 17, in a case where pressure is exerted on the form
  • FIG. 19 is a schematic view from above of another manufacturing station of the machine, the station being arranged to carry out an operation. hot pressurizing the base of the form, as well as a hot pressing operation of the top of the form,
  • FIG. 20 is a schematic view of one side of the station according to FIG. 19,
  • FIG. 21 is a diagrammatic view on another side of the station according to FIG. 19,
  • FIG. 22 is an enlarged partial view of FIG. 20, in a case of absence of pressure exerted on the form,
  • FIG. 23 is similar to FIG. 22, in a case where pressure is exerted on the shape,
  • FIG. 24 is a longitudinal sectional view of a head provided for exerting the hot pressure, the head having an elastically deformable portion; ,
  • FIG. 25 is an external view of the head of FIG. 24, on the side of an active face
  • FIG. 26 is a longitudinal sectional view of another head provided for exerting the hot pressure, the head presenting there too. an elastically deformable part
  • FIG. 27 is an external view of the head of FIG. 26, on the side of an active face
  • FIG. 28 is a top view of a machine according to one of claims 16 to 27, for one embodiment in which the distribution of the manufacturing stations is horizontal
  • Fig. 29 is a view of one side of the machine according to the embodiment of Fig. 28;
  • Figure 30 is a side view of a machine according to one of claims 16 to 27 for an embodiment in which the distribution of the manufacturing stations is vertical.
  • the article of footwear is intended for walking or running on horizontal terrain or in the mountains.
  • other areas of application are possible, such as the practice of ball sports, racket sports, or other.
  • a footwear item 1 is provided to accommodate the foot of a user. It is agreed for the rest of the description to consider that the article of footwear 1 is a shoe even if, as will be seen in more detail, its structure is unusual.
  • the boot 1 extends in length, in a longitudinal direction L, between a rear end or heel 4 and a front end or tip 5, and in width, in a transverse direction W, between a lateral edge 6 and an edge medial 7.
  • the shoe 1 comprises a lower portion 10, provided to surround the foot, excluding any high portion. However, it may alternatively be considered a shoe comprising both a low portion and a high portion, the latter being provided to surround the ankle and possibly the lower leg.
  • the shoe 1 extends in height from a bottom 12 to an upper end 13, that is to say to the free end of the lower portion 10. The bottom is a subdivision of the shoe on which the foot is supported.
  • the shoe 1 is structured to allow a smooth running of the foot during walking, transmissions of sensory information, and impulses for support or receptions. This is why the shoe 1, or footwear, is relatively flexible.
  • the shoe 1 comprises a first casing 21 which extends in length, in the longitudinal direction L, from a rear end 24 to a front end 25, in width, in the transverse direction W, between a lateral edge 26 and a medial edge 27, and in height from a bottom 28 to an upper end 29.
  • the first envelope comprises for example son connected to each other mechanically.
  • at least a portion of the son comprises at least one hot melt filament, as will be seen later.
  • the first envelope may also be constituted not of son, but of any other material, the important thing being that it comprises a hot melt material and / or a thermoformable material.
  • the first envelope 21 gives shape to the boot 1.
  • the rear end 24, the front end 25, the lateral edge 26, the medial edge 27, the bottom 28 and the upper end 29 of the first envelope respectively delimit the rear end 4, the front end 5, the side edge 6, the medial edge 7, the bottom 12 and the upper end 13 of the article of footwear or shoe 1.
  • the minimalist structure adopted for the envelope 21 is pledge simplicity, lightness, and other benefits, as we will see later.
  • the boot 1 also comprises a second casing 31 which extends in length, in the longitudinal direction L, from a rear end 34 to a front end 35, in width, in the transverse direction W, between a lateral edge 36 and a medial edge 37, and in height from a bottom 38 to an upper end 39.
  • the second envelope 31 covers the foot too, like the first 21
  • the second envelope 31 is disposed outside the first 21 and thereby covers the foot indirectly.
  • the shape of the shoe 1 is given both by the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31. It will be better later thereafter the interest of using two envelopes.
  • the second envelope 31 comprises son connected to each other mechanically.
  • the son comprises at least one hot melt filament.
  • the second envelope may also be constituted not of son, but of any other material, the important thing being that it comprises a thermofusible material and / or a thermoformable material.
  • the second envelope 31 also gives shape to the shoe 1.
  • the rear end 34, the front end 35, the lateral edge 36, the medial edge 37, the bottom 38 and the upper end 39 of the second envelope 31 also delimit respectively the rear end 4, the front end 5, the lateral edge 6, the medial edge 7, the bottom 12 and the upper end 13 of the footwear or shoe 1.
  • the minimalist structure adopted for the envelope 31 is a guarantee of simplicity, lightness, and many other advantages, as we will see later.
  • each envelope 21, 31 is done by manufacturing a sleeve 41, that is to say in fact a flexible tube made for example of wires linked to each other mechanically.
  • the sleeve 41 is a blank for the realization of the article 1.
  • the sleeve 41 allows for both the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31.
  • the sleeve 41 extends in length since a first end 42 to a second end 43.
  • the first end 42 is closed by any technique known to those skilled in the art, such as for example a stitch after folding, the addition of a tip made of son linked to each other mechanically, or any equivalent.
  • the second end 43 for its part, is simply an opening.
  • the sleeve 41 makes it possible to manufacture the envelopes 21, 31 in one piece.
  • the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31 extend one another. This simplifies manufacturing by reducing the number of parts and the time required for implementation.
  • the footwear 1, or shoe may include a reinforcement 51.
  • this reinforcement is associated with the envelopes 21, 31 by interlocking at the time of manufacture of the shoe 1, to give it specific skills.
  • the reinforcement 51 is a piece which extends in length from a rear end 54 to a front end 55, in width between a lateral edge 56 and a medial edge 57, and in height from a bottom 58 to an end 59.
  • the reinforcement 51 has a length and a width similar to the lengths and widths of the envelopes 21, 31. Specifically, the reinforcement 51 extends, in relation to the first envelope 21, in length from the rear end 24 at the front end 25, in width between the lateral edge 26 and the medial edge 27, and in height from the bottom 28 towards the upper end 29. This allows, by definition, to strengthen the first envelope 21, and therefore the footwear 1, especially at the bottom 12 and the periphery of the bottom. However, for this type of shoe, the reinforcement can be omitted.
  • the reinforcement 51 carries a clamping device 61, which can be seen in FIG. 1.
  • the clamping device 61 comprises, for example, loops 62, located at the upper end 59, as well as a lace 63 and a blocking device 64, known to those skilled in the art. It is therefore possible to tighten or loosen the reinforcement 51 and, in doing so, to tighten or loosen the shoe 1, as it will appear better after.
  • the threads are associated with each other by any means. appropriate textile technique, such as knitting, weaving, braiding, or other.
  • appropriate textile technique such as knitting, weaving, braiding, or other.
  • knitting it is possible to use a circular loom single needle or double needle, a cylinder loom, or a straight loom.
  • Two knitting zones can be joined to each other by Intarsia technique or by embroidery.
  • Various decorative patterns can be obtained directly during knitting, by the Intarsia method, embroidery, Jacquard technique, or other.
  • Figure 4 symbolizes a traditional weave with first son 65 oriented in a first direction, second son 66 oriented in a second direction, the first 65 and second 66 son crossing to form a flexible mesh.
  • Figure 5 symbolizes a knitting here with three son 67, 68, 69 arranged in loops that interpenetrate. But, of course, many other arrangements are possible.
  • the sleeve 41 is for example manufactured with a straight loom, which allows to vary the sections, that is to say in fact the diameter of the sleeve, to make shape variations for the heel, to make openings for the passage of laces, to vary the density of the wall of the sleeve, or in particular to vary the tightening of the loops.
  • the rectilinear craft offers a wide range of adjustment possibilities, and it is suitable for making sleeves of all sizes, either in diameter or in length.
  • the straight line is more practical than the circular loom. Indeed, it works on a reduced range in the diameter of the sleeve.
  • the yarn may be a monofilament, obtained for example by extrusion of a hot melt synthetic material, such as a polyamide, a polyurethane, a polyethylene, or any equivalent material or the like.
  • a hot melt synthetic material such as a polyamide, a polyurethane, a polyethylene, or any equivalent material or the like.
  • the production of a filament is continuous, comparable to the silk filament produced by a spider.
  • the filament may be monocomponent, or mono-material, in the sense that its cross-section is regular.
  • the filament can also be multi-component, for example two-component.
  • a section Transverse of a filament shows a heart consisting of a first material, and a peripheral envelope which surrounds the heart, envelope consisting of a second material.
  • Each material can be hot melt, or only one can be. If both materials are, their melting temperatures are different.
  • the wire can be multi-filament. It is in this case obtained by association of several filaments. Such an association is represented by the diagram of FIG. 6.
  • all the filaments 70 are of the same nature, in the sense that each of them has the same melting point. But we can provide combinations of filaments of different kinds, some of which may be fusible and others not, or with different melting points.
  • the filaments are associated with each other by any known technique.
  • the yarn can be made in the form of a net of fibers.
  • a fiber is a filament of limited length.
  • the fibers are associated by close contact to form the net, by any known technique and in particular by torsion.
  • the maintenance of the fibers to each other is traditionally made by friction, especially with natural fibers such as cotton.
  • the maintenance of the fibers to each other is done either by friction, or by combination of friction and melt adhesion, or still completely by adhesion, because the invention uses hot melt materials or thermoformable.
  • the sleeve 41 is threaded onto a part 73, called shape, which is in the image of the foot of the user. It is specified that the shape extends in length from a rear end 74 to a front end 75, in width between a lateral edge 76 and a medial edge 77, and in height from a base 78 to a top 79.
  • the sleeve is applied on the form 73 in the manner of a sock on a foot.
  • the sleeve 41 is shaped by the shape 73 thanks to its elasticity, which is due to its constitution.
  • the reinforcement 51 is, according to the embodiment, fitted on the subdivision of the sleeve 41 which will become the first envelope 21.
  • the footwear 1, or shoe includes an outer sole 81.
  • the latter is intended for be supported on the ground and, as such, is structured to resist frictional wear and also to cushion shocks. It therefore comprises, for example, a wear layer 82 and a damping layer 83.
  • the shoe according to the invention is suitable for example very well for a runner.
  • the boundary between the first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31 is a fold 84 which delimits a wearing opening 85.
  • the periphery of the boot opening 85 is therefore delimited simply by folding the two envelopes 21, 31 one over the other. This means that this periphery has no seam or insert, and that the shoe 1 is not a source of discomfort for the user including at the opening 85.
  • the manufacturing method comprises a reference step in which a first envelope 21 is placed on a shape 73, the first envelope 21 comprising at least one material at least partially thermofusible or thermoformable, the shape 73 s extending in length from a rear end 74 to a front end 75, in width between a side edge 76 and a media edge! 77, and in height from a base 78 to a top 79.
  • the manufacturing method comprises at least one manufacturing step, subsequent to the reference step, the manufacturing step comprising at least one pressurizing operation at least a portion of the surface of the first envelope 21 disposed on the shape 73.
  • the reference step is that which was discussed before in the description of the footwear. Each manufacturing step will be presented after.
  • the first envelope 21 comprises son 65, 66, 67, 68, 69 linked to each other mechanically.
  • a second envelope 31 is placed on the shape 73, the second envelope 31 comprising at least one material at least partially thermofusible or thermoformable, and that in the manufacturing step, the hot pressing operation is performed on at least a portion of the surface of the second casing 31 disposed on the form.
  • the second envelope 31 comprises son 65, 66, 67, 68, 69 linked to each other mechanically.
  • first envelope 21 and the second envelope 31 are both on the shape 73, they undergo hot pressing simultaneously. This makes the manufacture of the footwear simpler and faster than if the envelopes were pressed one after the other.
  • a machine 91, 92 used for the manufacture of a footwear item 1 according to the invention, comprises at least one manufacturing station designed to perform at least one manufacturing operation on one form. 73, the shape extending in length from a rear end 74 to a front end 75, in width between a lateral edge 76 and a medial edge 77, and in height from a base 78 to a top 79.
  • the operation method of manufacture comprises a step of pressurizing at least a portion of the surface of the form, or at least part of a casing placed on the form. It should be understood that it is possible to operate the vacuum machine, that is to say in the absence of envelope placed on the form.
  • the hot pressurization causes a more or less significant melting of the son 65, 66, 67, 68, 69 which enter the constitution of the envelopes 21, 31.
  • the footwear retains the aspect imposed by the shape. In other words the footwear 1 has its final dimensions, those that allow him to accommodate a foot.
  • the manufacturing method according to the invention is such that, in the manufacturing stage, the pressure at hot causes a change of state and / or a bonding of part or all of the son of an envelope.
  • the manufacturing process can be implemented also in cases where one or more envelopes are devoid of fuse wires, or in cases where they include in only certain areas.
  • At least one manufacturing step comprises two hot pressing operations of at least a portion of the surface of the form. 73.
  • two hot pressing operations of at least a portion of the surface of the form 73 are performed simultaneously.
  • operations are performed to oppose the pressures relative to each other. This preserves the form 73 of stresses that could tend to move it away from a desired reference position, since the resultant of the pressures is low, or even zero. It is a question of balancing the efforts applied on the form. This contributes to a better reliability of the machine.
  • At least one manufacturing step comprises at least one shape-keeping operation.
  • the machine 91 comprises a manufacturing station 95 arranged to perform a hot press operation of the rear end 74 of the form 73, and an operation hot pressing of the front end 75 and the top 79 of the form.
  • this characteristic also applies to any embodiment of the machine, such as that referenced 92, which will be discussed later.
  • the manufacturing method comprises a manufacturing step, the manufacturing step comprising a hot pressurizing operation of the rear end 74 of the shape, as well as an operation of hot pressing of the front end 75 and the top 79 of the form 73.
  • the manufacturing station 95 is arranged to carry out a maintenance operation of the base 78 of the form 73.
  • the method of manufacture comprises a holding operation of the base 78 of the form 73.
  • the maintenance is carried out in part at least during the pressurization of the ends 74, 75 and the top 79. This stabilizes the position of the shape during the application of the pressures.
  • the machine 91 comprises a manufacturing station 96 arranged to carry out a heat-press operation of the lateral edge 76 of the shape 73, as well as an operation of pressurizing hot medial edge 77 of the form.
  • the manufacturing method comprises a manufacturing step, the manufacturing step comprising a hot pressing operation of the lateral edge 76 of the shape 73, as well as a hot pressing operation of the medial edge. 77 of the form 73. It is still considered that the first envelope 21, the reinforcing structure 51 and the second envelope 31 have been previously put in place on the shape 73.
  • the machine 91 comprises a manufacturing station designed to carry out a hot pressing operation of the base 78 of the shape 73, as well as a maintenance operation of the top 79 of the form.
  • the manufacturing method comprises a manufacturing step, the manufacturing step comprising a hot pressing operation of the base 78 of the shape 73, and a holding operation of the top 79 of the form 73
  • the first envelope 21, the reinforcing structure 51 and the second envelope 31 have been previously placed on the shape 73.
  • they 21, 51, 31 are finally joined to each other at the bottom 12 of the article of footwear, by the fusion of the son 65, 66, 67, 68, 69.
  • the joining of the envelopes together, or the joining of the reinforcement to one or all envelopes can also be performed by gluing.
  • the machine 91 comprises a first manufacturing station 95, arranged to perform a setting operation hot pressure of the rear end 74 of the form 73, and a hot pressing operation of the front end 75 and the top 79 of the form
  • the machine comprises a second manufacturing station 96, arranged for performing a hot pressing operation of the side edge 76 of the form, as well as a hot pressing operation of the medial edge 77 of the form
  • the machine comprises a third manufacturing station 97, arranged to perform a hot pressing operation of the base 78 of the form, and a holding operation of the top 79 of the form.
  • the manufacturing process comprises a first manufacturing step, the first manufacturing step comprising a hot pressing operation of the rear end 74 of the form 73, as well as a setting operation. hot pressure of the front end 75 and the top 79 of the form, the manufacturing method comprises a second manufacturing step, the second manufacturing step comprising a hot pressing operation of the lateral edge 76 of the form, as well as a heat pressurizing operation of the medial edge 77 of the form, and the manufacturing method comprises a third manufacturing step, the third manufacturing step comprising a hot pressing operation of the base 78 of the shape, as well as a holding operation of the top 79 of the shape.
  • the three manufacturing stations 95, 96, 97 are provided in a nonlimiting manner and are successively arranged in this order. As a result, the manufacturing steps take place in this order. This has the advantage of a low scrap rate.
  • the hot pressure is exerted by a head 101 which has an elastically deformable portion 102. It is appropriate to designate each of the heads of the machine 91 by the reference 101, for the sake of clarity, even if different heads have different structures. In the same spirit, it is appropriate to designate each of the elastically deformable parts by the reference 102, even if different parts have different structures.
  • the head comprises a container 103 closed by a membrane 102, the membrane constituting the elastically deformable portion, the container 103 housing a fluid 104.
  • the container is here a enclosure that has the appearance of an open box, that is to say without cover. In fact it is the membrane 102 which closes the container 103, to retain the fluid 104.
  • the container is for example made of a rigid material such as a metal, a metal alloy, a reinforced synthetic material or not, or any other material which has sufficient qualities of rigidity.
  • the membrane 102 for its part, is made of a material which gives it good bending deformation ability, and / or good reversible elastic deformation ability.
  • the membrane is made of silicone, polyurethane, rubber, any equivalent material, or any combination of these materials.
  • the membrane has for example a thickness of between 2 and 6 mm, knowing that good results have been obtained with a thickness of between 3.5 and 4.5 mm.
  • the fluid 104 finally, it can be a liquid or a gas. Good results have been obtained in cases where the fluid 104 is an oil.
  • This fluid that is to say here the oil, has the advantage of being able to be heated to various temperatures, especially high enough to cause the fusing of the fusible threads that form the envelopes 21, 31 as it has been seen before.
  • the oil is for example heated to temperatures between 120 and 210 degrees Celsius, knowing that good results have been obtained for temperatures between 140 and 180 degrees.
  • the active face 105 of the head operates at a temperature between 120 and 140 degrees Celsius, which allows to melt the son 65, 66, 67, 68, 69 just as necessary to obtain their joining together to others.
  • the application time of a head on the form 73, when the envelopes are put in place, is between 90 and 240 seconds, knowing that good results have been obtained for periods of application of the hot pressure included between 150 and 220 seconds.
  • the hot oil is placed in the container 103 closed by the membrane 102. It is for example provided inputs and outputs to adjust the amount of oil, and heating devices. to adjust the temperature of the oil in the container.
  • the heads are applied to the shape 73, or are instead remote, by any appropriate technology.
  • pneumatic cylinders 106 is suitable, the latter being here all designated by this reference 106 for reasons of convenience.
  • the membrane 102 has, in most cases, a convex active face 105.
  • the membrane 102 exerts a scrolling action on the shape.
  • the convex curvature of the membrane 102 as it moves away from the shape 73 becomes concave when applied to the shape.
  • This unwinding effect makes it possible to obtain a regular surface of the envelope or envelopes. In other words, the outer surface of the article of footwear 1 has no wrinkles, which is synonymous with quality. Because it has a deformable active face as we have just seen, we can consider that the head 101 is a deformable buffer.
  • the machine 91, 92 comprises several stations 95, 96, 97 arranged in a closed path. This facilitates its use by a labor limited in quantity.
  • the machine 91 For the machine 91 visible in its entirety in Figures 28 and 29, the distribution of manufacturing stations 95, 96, 97 is horizontal. This facilitates maintenance.
  • the machine 91 comprises a loading station 111, designed to accommodate a shape 73, covered by elements constituting the article of footwear if the machine is in the production phase.
  • the machine 91 comprises an unloading station 112, provided for the withdrawal of the form 73 which had previously been placed in the machine. This facilitates the use of the machine 91.
  • the distribution of the manufacturing stations 95, 96, 97 is vertical. This reduces the size of the machine.
  • several forms 73 are rotatably mounted on the same horizontal axis. The rotation of the shapes 73 allows them to move from one manufacturing station to another. It is therefore possible to perform a manufacturing step for one form at the same time as another manufacturing step for another form.
  • each manufacturing station 95, 96, 97 comprises at least one head 101 designed to exert hot pressure, the head having an elastically deformable portion 102. This allows each station to enjoy the benefits of the technology provided by the invention.
  • the structure of the machine 91, 92 may be substantially made of metal elements welded and / or secured to each other by screwing techniques, interlocking, or other.

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Materials Engineering (AREA)
  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Physical Education & Sports Medicine (AREA)
  • Footwear And Its Accessory, Manufacturing Method And Apparatuses (AREA)
PCT/FR2015/000220 2014-12-31 2015-12-02 Procede de fabrication d'un article chaussant, article chaussant obtenu par ce procede, et machine servant a la fabrication d'un article chaussant WO2016107990A1 (fr)

Priority Applications (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
US15/540,926 US20170340064A1 (en) 2014-12-31 2015-12-02 Method for manufacturing footwear, footwear produced using said method, and machine for manufacturing footwear
EP15823608.3A EP3240449A1 (fr) 2014-12-31 2015-12-02 Procede de fabrication d'un article chaussant, article chaussant obtenu par ce procede, et machine servant a la fabrication d'un article chaussant
CA2971000A CA2971000A1 (fr) 2014-12-31 2015-12-02 Procede de fabrication d'un article chaussant, article chaussant obtenu par ce procede, et machine servant a la fabrication d'un article chaussant
CN201580071855.6A CN107105822A (zh) 2014-12-31 2015-12-02 鞋制品制造方法、通过该方法制成的鞋制品以及用于制造鞋制品的机器

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
FR14/03051 2014-12-31
FR1403051A FR3031015B1 (fr) 2014-12-31 2014-12-31 Procede de fabrication d'un article chaussant

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WO2016107990A1 true WO2016107990A1 (fr) 2016-07-07

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Country Status (8)

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US (1) US20170340064A1 (zh)
EP (1) EP3240449A1 (zh)
CN (1) CN107105822A (zh)
AR (1) AR103326A1 (zh)
CA (1) CA2971000A1 (zh)
FR (1) FR3031015B1 (zh)
TW (1) TW201630545A (zh)
WO (1) WO2016107990A1 (zh)

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US11553759B2 (en) 2018-06-08 2023-01-17 Decathlon Method for producing a shoe and shoe that can be obtained by said method

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WO2017127449A1 (en) 2016-01-19 2017-07-27 Schaefer Emily B Footwear with felting transition between materials
CN114098223A (zh) 2016-01-19 2022-03-01 耐克创新有限合伙公司 具有材料间的刺绣过渡部的鞋类
TWI667965B (zh) * 2017-03-10 2019-08-11 薩摩亞商紘織國際有限公司 Method for manufacturing integrally formed shoe blank
US10711380B2 (en) 2017-07-13 2020-07-14 Under Armour, Inc. Article with embroidered tape segments
CN110573665B (zh) * 2017-08-04 2022-04-26 耐克创新有限合伙公司 由包括至少一个分层荚形物的针织部件形成的物品和针织部件
KR102359757B1 (ko) * 2017-11-22 2022-02-08 나이키 이노베이트 씨.브이. 신발류 제조용 순응 멤브레인
US20190166952A1 (en) * 2017-12-05 2019-06-06 Reebok International Limited Article of footwear with dispensed saddle
CN112261887B (zh) * 2018-04-10 2022-12-30 耐克创新有限合伙公司 用于鞋类制品的鞋面
US10786043B2 (en) * 2018-07-03 2020-09-29 Under Armour, Inc. Article with thermally bonded ribbon structure and method of making
US10758007B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2020-09-01 Under Armour, Inc. Article with thermally bonded ribbon structure and method of making
US10619280B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2020-04-14 Under Armour, Inc. Method of making article with ribbon structure and embroidered edges
US10736381B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2020-08-11 Under Armour, Inc. Article with directional tensioning
US10736380B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2020-08-11 Under Armour, Inc. Article with ribbon structure and embroidered edges
US10716362B2 (en) 2018-07-03 2020-07-21 Under Armour, Inc. Article with ribbon structure having nodes and links
US10993497B2 (en) 2018-11-15 2021-05-04 Under Armour, Inc. Article with ribbon loops for string lasting
CN109527712A (zh) * 2018-11-29 2019-03-29 重庆市鸿驰鞋业有限公司 一种羊皮鞋生产工艺
JP6744677B1 (ja) * 2019-11-25 2020-08-19 株式会社キタイ カスタムオーダーシューズの製造方法
USD958511S1 (en) * 2020-10-09 2022-07-26 Wolverine Outdoors, Inc. Footwear upper
USD957110S1 (en) * 2020-10-09 2022-07-12 Wolverine Outdoors, Inc. Footwear upper
CN114098232B (zh) * 2021-10-29 2023-04-11 丽荣鞋业(深圳)有限公司 铁板烧和换模一体设备
USD1007110S1 (en) 2022-03-23 2023-12-12 Mountain Origins Design LLC Footwear
USD1007826S1 (en) 2022-03-23 2023-12-19 Mountain Origins Design LLC Footwear
USD1008611S1 (en) 2022-03-23 2023-12-26 Mountain Origins Design LLC Footwear
USD1007825S1 (en) 2022-03-23 2023-12-19 Mountain Origins Design LLC Footwear

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US11553759B2 (en) 2018-06-08 2023-01-17 Decathlon Method for producing a shoe and shoe that can be obtained by said method

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
AR103326A1 (es) 2017-05-03
FR3031015A1 (fr) 2016-07-01
US20170340064A1 (en) 2017-11-30
CN107105822A (zh) 2017-08-29
TW201630545A (zh) 2016-09-01
FR3031015B1 (fr) 2017-04-28
CA2971000A1 (fr) 2016-07-07
EP3240449A1 (fr) 2017-11-08

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