WO2016093184A1 - Composition comprenant un hydrocarbure liquide, une huile de silicone aromatique, de la cire, et une substance grasse pâteuse - Google Patents

Composition comprenant un hydrocarbure liquide, une huile de silicone aromatique, de la cire, et une substance grasse pâteuse Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2016093184A1
WO2016093184A1 PCT/JP2015/084225 JP2015084225W WO2016093184A1 WO 2016093184 A1 WO2016093184 A1 WO 2016093184A1 JP 2015084225 W JP2015084225 W JP 2015084225W WO 2016093184 A1 WO2016093184 A1 WO 2016093184A1
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Prior art keywords
composition
weight
oil
composition according
polyol
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PCT/JP2015/084225
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English (en)
Inventor
Masako Shirai
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L'oreal
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Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to KR1020177014683A priority Critical patent/KR102092087B1/ko
Priority to CN201580065329.9A priority patent/CN106999418B/zh
Publication of WO2016093184A1 publication Critical patent/WO2016093184A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A61Q1/06—Lipsticks
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/31—Hydrocarbons
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/37—Esters of carboxylic acids
    • A61K8/375—Esters of carboxylic acids the alcohol moiety containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8111—Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/89—Polysiloxanes
    • A61K8/891—Polysiloxanes saturated, e.g. dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, C24-C28 methicone or stearyl dimethicone
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A61Q1/04—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments for lips
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/001—Preparations for care of the lips

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition, more particularly to a cosmetic solid composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising hydrocarbon oil, aromatic silicone oil, waxes, and pasty fatty substances in a particular content.
  • the present invention also relates to a use of such composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips.
  • WO 2013/191300 discloses a solid cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising :
  • nonvolatile silicone oil(s) from 43 to 90 % by weight of the total content of (a) nonvolatile silicone oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, wherein at least one of said non-volatile silicone oil(s) is a non-volatile phenylated silicon oil, and
  • WO 2012/165130 discloses a cosmetic for lips which is
  • a solid cosmetic for a lip comprises: (a) adhesion oil; (b) exudation oil, the viscosity of which is lower than that of the adhesion oil; and (c) wax
  • An objective of the present invention is to provide a composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips which produces a deposit having good color transfer resistance and showing shine effectively.
  • Another objective of the present invention is a use of such composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips .
  • composition according to the present invention can provide, a shiny deposit having. good color transfer resistance.
  • composition comprising:
  • the (d) pasty fatty substance comprises an ester of fatty acids and a branched polyol or dimer of polyol in which only a part of hydroxyl groups of the polyol or dimer of polyol is esterified with the fatty acids.
  • the fatty acids comprise two or more types of fatty acids .
  • the fatty acids further comprise a branched fatty acid and/or a hydroxyl fatty acid.
  • the polyol has from 3 to 12 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 4 to 10 hydroxyl groups, and more preferably from 5 to 8 hydroxyl groups .
  • the (a) hydrocarbon oil comprises an apolar hydrocarbon oil, preferably a non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil, and more preferably hydrogenated polyisobutene .
  • the (b) aromatic silicone oil is (b) aromatic silicone oil
  • the (a) hydrocarbon oil may be included in an amount of from 5 to 30 % by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight, more
  • composition preferably from 8% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (b) aromatic silicone oil may be included in an amount of from 43 to 90 % by weight, preferably from 45 to 70% by weight, more preferably from 50 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the (c) wax(es) may be included in an amount of from 3 to 30% by weight, preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the
  • the (d) pasty fatty substance (s) may be included in an amount of from 0.5 to 20% by weight, preferably . , from 1 to 18% by weight, 1 more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition according to the present invention is solid.
  • the composition according to the present invention is a cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips .
  • the present invention also relates to a use of the composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips,
  • composition according to the present invention comprises: (a) at least one
  • the (d) pasty fatty substance comprises an ester of fatty acids and a branched polyol or dimer of polyol in which only a part of hydroxyl groups of the polyol or dimer of polyol is esterified with the fatty acids.
  • composition according to the present invention can produce a deposit having improved color transfer resistance and showing shine effectively.
  • composition according to the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.
  • the composition according to the present invention may be in the form of a solid composition.
  • the composition may be for making up the skin and/or the lips, especially for facial or bodily skin; it may be a complexion product such as a foundation, a face powder or an eyeshadow; a lip product such as a lipstick or a lipcare product; a concealer product; blusher; eyeliner; a lip pencil or an eye pencil; a body makeup product.
  • the composition is intended for making up the lips and it is more pa-rb-i;cula-E'tyya- ⁇ lipsstick-: ( l-ips-t-ick «wa-nd ⁇
  • compositions under consideration according to the invention and used in the processes according to the invention are in solid form at 20°C.
  • solid characterizes the state of the composition at a temperature of 20 °C.
  • a solid composition according to the invention has, at a temperature of 20°C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) , a hardness of greater than 30 Nm -1 and preferably greater than 40 Nm -1 .
  • the hardness of a composition especially of lipstick wand type is measured according to the following protocol.
  • the stick of lipstick is stored at 20°C for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.
  • the hardness may be measured at 20 °C via the "cheese wire” method, which consists in transversely cutting a wand of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, by means of a rigid tungsten wire 250 ⁇ in diameter, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/minute.
  • the hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from the company Indelco-Chatillon .
  • the measurement is repeated three times and then averaged.
  • L is equal to the diameter (in meters) .
  • the stick is stored for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.
  • a solid composition according to the invention has a hardness at 20°C of greater than or equal to 30 Nm -1 , preferably greater than 40 Nm -1 .
  • the composition according to the invention especially has a hardness at 20°C of less than 500 Nm -1 , especially less than 400 Nm -1 and preferably less than 300 Nm "1 .
  • the composition according to the invention especially has a hardness value at 20°C comprised between 40 Nm -1 and 200 Nm ⁇
  • the hardness is comprised between 45 Nm “1 and 100 Nm "1 .
  • the composition under consideration according to the invention is an oil-in-oil type composition.
  • the (b) aromatic silicone oil(s) and the (a) hydrocarbon oil(s) are in a stable oil-in-oil state before application, without being separated from each other (that is no macroscopic phase separation of the (a) and (b) compounds) .
  • the (b) aromatic silicone oil comes up to the surface of the deposit, and this separated
  • aromatic silicone oil covers an adherent layer of the hydrocarbon oil. Therefore, the resulting composition has good transfer resistance (in particular color transfer resistance) .
  • composition according to the present invention can provide effectively
  • the oil-in-oil state of the present composition is not a (a) hydrocarbon oil in (b) aromatic silicone oil state.
  • the oil-in-oil state of the present composition is (b) aromatic silicone oil in (a) hydrocarbon oil state.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (a) at least one hydrocarbon oil. Two or more types of hydrocarbon oil may be used in combination.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises from 5% to 30% by total. weight of the hydrocarbon oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises from 5% to 25%, more preferably from 8% to 25% by weight of hydrocarbon oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • oil used herein means a water-immiscible non-aqueous compound that is liquid at room temperature (25 °C) and at
  • hydrocarbon oil (also called as “hydrocarbon-based oil” or “hydrocarbonated oil”) used herein means an oil formed essentially from, or even constituted by, carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen and nitrogen atoms. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.
  • the hydrocarbon oil is a non-volatile oil.
  • non-volatile oil means an oil whose vapour pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10 "3 mmHg (0.13 Pa) .
  • the hydrocarbon oil is an apolar oil.
  • apolar oil used herein means an oil whose solubility parameter at 25°C, 6 a , is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 172 .
  • the (a) hydrocarbon oil may be from plant, mineral or synthetic origin.
  • the (a) hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin.
  • the (a) hydrocarbon oil contains more than 16 carbon atoms.
  • said (a) hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from:
  • copolymers especially Indopol L-14,
  • the (a) hydrocarbon oil is selected from the greoup consisting of polybutenes, polyisobutenes, hydrogenated
  • polyisobutenes polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, and mixtures thereof. More preferably, the (a) hydrocarbon oil is hydrogenated polyisobutene .
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (b) at least one aromatic silicone oil. Two or more types of
  • aromatic silicone oil may be used in combination.
  • the composition according to the present invention comprises from 43 to 90 % by weight of the aromatic silicone oil, preferably between 45 and 70% by weight, more preferably between 50 and 70% by weight of the aromatic silicone oil, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • aromatic silicone oil also called as “phenyl silicone oil” or “phenylated silicone . .oil” used herein means silicone oil having at least one phenyl substituent.
  • the aromatic silicon oil is a non-volatile oil.
  • the aromatic silicone is preferably chosen among the compounds that are incompatible with (a) .
  • the term "incompatible oils” means that the mixing of these two oils does not lead to a homogeneous one-phase solution. The said mixing is performed with- the same weight amount of each oil.
  • oils are said to be "incompatible" when mixing them leads to a separation of phases according to the following protocols.
  • the two . oils to be evaluated are introduced (in the weight ratio desired for the composition) at room temperature into a conical-tipped plastic centrifuge tube (ref. Corning® 15mL PET Centrifuge Tubes, Rack Packed with Plug Seal Cap, Sterile (Product #430055) which is placed in a Vortex Genie 2 machine. Stirring is performed at speed 10 for 10 seconds, followed by manual inversion of the tube before replacing it in the Vortex machine. This cycle is repeated three times in succession. The mixture is then. left to stand at room temperature for 48 hours.
  • a conical-tipped plastic centrifuge tube ref. Corning® 15mL PET Centrifuge Tubes, Rack Packed with Plug Seal Cap, Sterile (Product #430055) which is placed in a Vortex Genie 2 machine. Stirring is performed at speed 10 for 10 seconds, followed by manual inversion of the tube before replacing it in the Vortex machine. This cycle is repeated three times in succession. The mixture is then. left to stand at room temperature for 48 hours.
  • the mixture of the two oils (5 g/5 g) is placed in an oven at 50°C for 30 minutes before performing the three stirring cycles described previously.
  • the mixture is observed using a phase- contrast microscope, at room temperature (about 25°C) . If a continuous phase and a dispersed phase in the form of drops are observed, the phases are said to be "separated" and the oils are considered as incompatible.
  • the composition comprises at least one (b) aromatic silicone which is incompatible with (a) .
  • the (b) aromatic silicone oil may be chosen from:
  • the aromatic silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six.
  • the aromatic silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five.
  • Me a group - OSiMe 3 and y is 0 or ranges between 1 and 1000, and z ranges between 1 and 1000.
  • y and z are such that compound (IV) is a non-volatile oil.
  • y ranges between 1 and 1000.
  • Use may be made, for example, of trimethyl siloxyphenyl
  • y is equal to 0.
  • Use may be made, for example, of phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane, sold especially under the reference Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556) .
  • DC556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid
  • Ri to Rio independently of each other, are saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched Ci-C 30 hydrocarbon-based radicals,
  • n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, with the proviso that the sum of m+n+q is other than 0.
  • the sum of m+n+q is between 1 and 100.
  • the sum of m+n+p+q is between 1 and 900 and better still between 1 and 800.
  • q is equal to 0.
  • Ri to Ri 0 independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched C1-C30, hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, and especially C1-C12 hydrocarbon- based radical, in particular C 3 -Ci 6 and more particularly C4-C10, or a monocyclic or polycyclic C 6 -Ci 4 and especially Ci 0 -Ci 3 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical.
  • Ri to Ri 0 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
  • Ri to Ri 0 may especially be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
  • Ci-C 30 hydrocarbon-based radicals preferably Ri to R 6 are a Ci-C 30 alkyl radical, an aryl radical or an aralkyl radical
  • n, and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, with the proviso that the sum of n+m is between 1 and 100.
  • Ri to R 6 independently of each other, represent a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched Ci-G 30 , hydrocarbon radical, preferably saturated, and especially C1 -C12 hydrocarbon- based radical, in particular C 3 -Ci 6 and more particularly C4-C10 , or a monocyclic or polycyclic C 6 -Ci 4 and especially C10-C13 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical.
  • hydrocarbon radical preferably saturated, and especially C1 -C12 hydrocarbon- based radical, in particular C 3 -Ci 6 and more particularly C4-C10 , or a monocyclic or polycyclic C 6 -Ci 4 and especially C10-C13 aryl radical, or an aralkyl radical.
  • Ri to R6 may each represent a methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, isopropyl, decyl, dodecyl or octadecyl radical, or alternatively a phenyl, tolyl, benzyl or phenethyl radical.
  • Ri to R6 may especially be identical, and in addition may be a methyl radical.
  • m 1 or 2 or 3
  • Ri J3 ⁇ 4/ R5 and R 6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical containing 1 to 6 carbon atoms,
  • R 3 and R 4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical
  • R 3 and R 4 are phenyl radicals
  • X is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical
  • n and p being integers equal to 1 or more, chosen so as to give the oil a weight-average molecular mass of less than 200,000 g/mol, preferably less than 150,000 g/mol and more preferably less than 100,000 g/mol.
  • silicone oils such as:
  • phenyl silicone oil preferably chosen from : Tetramethyl Tetraphenyl Trisiloxane (such as as PH-1554 HRI or Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid from Dow Corning) ,
  • trimethicones such as the phenyl trimethicone sold under the trade name DC556 by Dow Corning
  • phenyl dimethicones phenyl dimethicones
  • phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt) , KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt), KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt) , KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175cSt), KF-50-100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt) ) ,
  • trimethylsiloxysilicates such as the product sold under the name Dow Corning PH-1555 HRI
  • aromatic silicones are more preferably chosen from:
  • the weight-average molecular weight of the aromatic silicone oil according to the invention ranges from 500 to 10,000 g/mo1.
  • the (b) aromatic silicone oil(s) is/are chosen from one or more aromatic silicone oil(s) with no dimethicone part, or a mixture of one or more aromatic silicone oil having no dimethicone part and one or more aromatic silicone oil having at ' least one dimethicone part.
  • the weight ratio of the aromatic silicone oil having no dimethicone part to the aromatic silicone oil having at least one dimethicone part may be from 1:1 to 10:1, preferably from 2:1 to 7:1, and more preferably from 3:1 to 5:1.
  • the (b) aromatic silicone oil is trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane represented by the following formula (VIII) :
  • Trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane is, for example, manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1 , 3 , 5-trimethyl-l , 1 , 3 , 5 , 5- pentaphenyl trisiloxane; INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl
  • aromatic silicone oils having at least one
  • dimethicone part are as mentioned above, such as the compounds represented by the formula (IV), wherein y is not 0, formula (V), wherein p is not 0 and R3 and R 4 are CH 3 , and formula (VI) ,
  • R3 and R 4 are CH 3 , for example,
  • dimethicones diphenyl dimethicones (such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt), KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt), KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt) , KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175cSt), and KF-50- 100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt) ) .
  • diphenyl dimethicones such as KF-54 from Shin Etsu (400 cSt), KF54HV from Shin Etsu (5000 cSt), KF-50-300CS from Shin Etsu (300 cSt) , KF-53 from Shin Etsu (175cSt), and KF-50- 100CS from Shin Etsu (100 cSt) ) .
  • aromatic silicone oil (b) is chosen among aromatic silicone oils with no dimethicone part and their mixtures.
  • the (b) aromatic silicone oil is a mixture of trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane and diphenylsiloxy phenyltrimethicone .
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (c) at least one wax. Two or more waxes may be used in combination.
  • composition according to the invention comprises from 3 to 30% by weight of the waxes, preferably from 4 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 10% by weight of the waxes, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • wax used herein means a lipophilic compound that is solid at room temperature, with a solid/liquid reversible change of state, having a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C, which may be up to 200 °C and in particular up to 120°C.
  • the (c) wax that is suitable for the invention may have a melting point of greater than or equal to 45°C and in particular greater than or equal to 55°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed by thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax may be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by the company TA Instruments, according to the common technical knowledge in the art.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the wax may especially have a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 15 MPa and preferably ranging from 6 MPa to 15 MPa.
  • the hardness is determined by measuring the compression force, measured at 20 °C, using a texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company Rheo, equipped with a stainless-steel cylinder 2 mm in diameter, moving at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm/s, and
  • the wax is an apolar wax.
  • apolar wax used herein means a wax whose solubility parameter at 25°C as defined before, 5 a , is equal to 0 (J/cm 3 ) 1/2 .
  • solubility parameters in the Hansen three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by CM. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters” J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967) .
  • apolar wax means a wax that is formed exclusively from apolar wax and not from a mixture also
  • hydrocarbon-based waxes for instance microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite and polyethylene waxes.
  • hydrocarbon wax used herein represents a wax which is formed solely from carbon and hydrogen atoms, and are free of heteroatoms such as N, 0 and P.
  • Polyethylene waxes that may be mentioned include Performalene 500-L Polyethylene and Performalene 400 Polyethylene sold by New Phase Technologies.
  • An ozokerite that may be mentioned is
  • Ozokerite Wax SP 1020 P As microcrystalline waxes that may be used, mention may be made of Multiwax W 445® sold by the company Sonneborn and Microwax HW® and Base Wax 30540® sold by the company Paramelt.
  • composition according to the present invention comprises (d) at least one pasty fatty substance. Two or more pasty fatty substances may be used in combination.
  • composition according to the invention comprises from 0.5 to 20% by weight of the pasty fatty substances, preferably from 1 to 18% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight of the pasty fatty substances, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • pasty fatty substance within the meaning of the present invention, is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid change of state
  • the (d) pasty fatty substance of the present invention comprises an ester of fatty acids and a branched polyol or dimer of polyol. Furthermore, in the ester, only a part of hydroxyl groups of the branched polyol or dimer of polyol is esterified with the fatty acids .
  • the polyol in the ester includes branched polyol. Two or more different polyols can be used in combination.
  • the branched polyol may be aliphatic, cyclic, or aromatic.
  • the branched polyol is aliphatic branched polyol.
  • the branched polyol may comprise from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 6 to 16 carbon atoms.
  • the branched polyol in the ester may have from 3 to 12 hydroxyl groups, preferably from 4 to 10 hydroxyl groups, and more
  • the branched polyol is selected from among branched sugar alcohols.
  • the dimer of polyol may be a dimer of linear or branched polyol.
  • the dimer of polyol is the dimer of the branched polyol described herein.
  • branched polyol or dimer thereof in the ester include ethylene glycol, pentanetriol ,
  • pentaerythritol dipentaerythritol , neopentyl glycol, and their combination, and preferably dipentaerythritol.
  • the (d) pasty fatty substance comprises an ester in which only a part of the branched polyol or dimer thereof is esterified with the fatty acids.
  • ester compound in which only a part of the branched polyol or dimer thereof is esterified corresponds to an ester compound in which hydroxyl groups of the polyol or dimer thereof are not fully esterified. That is, the ester compound comprises a
  • the ester includes at least one unreacted hydroxyl group derived from the branched polyol/dimer thereof.
  • the ester includes two unreacted hydroxyl groups derived from the polyol or dimer thereof.
  • polyol residue or "dimer of polyol residue” used herein means a polyol/dimer from which a hydrogen atom has been removed from its hydroxyl group.
  • fatty, acid residue used herein means a fatty acid from which a hydroxyl group has been removed from its carboxyl group.
  • the fatty acids in the ester may comprise two or more types of fatty acids.
  • the fatty acids include at least one branched fatty acid.
  • the branched fatty acid may be a saturated or unsaturated branched aliphatic fatty acid.
  • the number of carbon atoms of the branched fatty acid may be from 4 to 30, preferably from 8 to 26, and more preferably from 12 to 22.
  • Such fatty acids include, but are not limited to, isostearic acid, isoarachidic acid, and octyldodecanoic acid, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty acids in the- ester include at least one hydroxyl fatty acid.
  • the hydroxyl fatty acid means hydroxylated aliphatic fatty acid.
  • Such hydroxyl fatty acid may have from 4 to 30 carbon atoms, for example from 8 to 26 carbon atoms or from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and have from 1 to 20 hydroxyl groups, for example from 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups or from 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups.
  • Two or more different hydroxyl fatty acids can be used in combination.
  • the hydroxyl fatty acid is a mono- hydroxylated fatty acid, such as 12-hydroxy stearic acid.
  • the fatty acids in the ester may include linear aliphatic fatty acids.
  • Such linear fatty acids may be saturated or unsaturated, and the number of carbon atoms of the fatty acid may be from 4 to 30, preferably from 8 to 26, and more preferably from 12 to 22.
  • the not-limiting examples of the additional linear fatty acids include hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2- ethylhexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid,
  • eicosanoic acid eicosanoic acid
  • heneicosanoic acid docosanoic acid
  • palmitoleic acid eicosanoic acid
  • the fatty acids in the ester compound are a mixture of the branched fatty acid, such as isostearic acid, isoarachidic acid, and
  • octyldodecanoic acid and the hydroxyl fatty acid, such as 12- hydroxy stearic acid.
  • the fatty acids are a mixture of 12-hydroxy stearic acid and isostearic acid.
  • the (d) pasty fatty substance is a tetra ester of
  • Tetrahydroxystearate/Tetraisostearate (trade name: Salacos-168EV, from NISSHIN OILLIO) .
  • composition according to the present invention may comprise other components usually used in cosmetic compositions for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips.
  • components may include, but not limited to, physiologically acceptable medium, oils other than components (a) and (b) ,
  • physiologically acceptable medium is intended to denote a medium that is suitable for the application of a cosmetic composition to the skin and/or the lips, for instance water, water-miscible solvent, or organic solvents commonly used in cosmetic compositions.
  • the physiologically acceptable medium (acceptable tolerance, toxicology and feel) is generally adapted to the nature of the support onto which the composition is to be applied, and also to the form in which the composition is to be conditioned.
  • composition used according to the invention is
  • anhydrous especially means that water is preferably not deliberately added to the composition, but may be present in trace amount in the various compounds used in the composition.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one non-aromatic silicone oil.
  • non-aromatic silicone oil means a silicon oil - having no phenyl. substituent.
  • non-aromatic silicone oils that may be mentioned include polydimethylsiloxanes ; alkyl
  • Dimthicone (INCI Name) corresponds to polydimethylsiloxane (chemical name) .
  • Non-aromatic silicone oils can be chosen from:
  • PDMS non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • PDMSs comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain, these groups each containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, such as cetyldimethicone sold under the commercial reference ABIL WAX 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt,
  • PDMSs comprising aliphatic and/or aromatic groups, or functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups, polyalkylmethylsiloxanes such as cetyldimethicone sold under the commercial reference ABIL WAX 9801 from Evonik Goldschmidt, or polyalkylmethylsiloxane optionally substituted with a
  • polyalkylmethylsiloxanes substituted with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups,
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one fluoro oil.
  • fluoro oil means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom.
  • the fluoro oils that may be used in the invention may be chosen from fluorosilicone oils, fluoro polyethers and fluorosilicones as described in document EP-A-847 752, and perfluoro compounds.
  • perfluoro compounds means compounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been replaced with fluorine atoms.
  • perfluoro oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of perfluorodecalins and
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more filler(s) .
  • fillers should be understood as meaning colorless or white, mineral or synthetic particles of any shape, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, irrespective of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve especially to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.
  • the fillers may be mineral or organic and of any shape, platelet- shaped, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.) Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, clay, titanium dioxide, tin oxide, bentone, fumed silica particles, optionally hydrophilic- or hydrophobic-treated, polyamide (Nylon®) powder (Orgasol® from Atochem) , poly-p-alanine powder and polyethylene powder, tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon®) powder,
  • silicone resin microbeads for example Tospearls® from Toshiba
  • calcium aluminium borosilicate precipitated calcium carbonate
  • magnesium carbonate magnesium hydrogen carbonate
  • hydroxyapatite hydroxyapatite
  • hollow silica microspheres Silica Beads® from Maprecos
  • microcapsules and metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate or magnesium myristate, and
  • They may also be particles comprising a copolymer, said copolymer comprising trimethylol hexyl lactone.
  • it may be a copolymer of hexamethylene diisocyanate/trimethylol hexyl lactone.
  • Such trimethylol hexyllactone crosspolymer particles are
  • Plastic Powder D-400® or Plastic Powder D-800® from the company Toshiki .
  • the filler may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20% by weight and better still from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions according to the invention may comprise at least one dyestuff (also known as a colouring agent) , which may be chosen from pigments, water-soluble or liposoluble dyes, nacres, and glitter flakes, that are well known to those skilled in the art, and mixtures thereof.
  • dyestuff also known as a colouring agent
  • pigments should be understood as meaning white or coloured, mineral or organic particles that are insoluble in an aqueous solution.
  • mineral pigments that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium oxide, zirconium oxide or cerium oxide, and also zinc oxide, iron oxide or chromium oxide, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.
  • a pigment is sold, for example, under the reference Coverleaf NS or JS by the company Chemicals and Catalysts, and has a contrast ratio in the region of 30.
  • the dyestuff may also comprise a pigment with a structure that may be, for example, of silica microsphere type containing iron oxide.
  • a pigment having this structure is the product sold by the company Miyoshi under the reference PC Ball PC-LL-100 P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide.
  • DPP diketopyrrolopyrroles
  • the nacres may be chosen from nacreous pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth
  • titanium mica coated with chromium oxide titanium mica coated with an organic dye and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. They may also be mica particles at the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or of organic dyestuffs.
  • nacres available on the market, mention may be made of the nacres Timica, Flamenco and Duochrome (based on mica) sold by the company Engelhard, the Timiron nacres sold by the company Merck, the Prestige mica-based nacres, sold by the company Eckart, and the Sunshine synthetic mica-based nacres, sold by the company Sun Chemical.
  • dyes should be understood as meaning compounds that are generally organic, which are soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in an aqueous-alcoholic phase.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble or liposoluble dyes.
  • the liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, ⁇ -carotene, Sudan brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow.
  • the water-soluble dyes are, for example, beetroot juice or methylene blue.
  • composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect as dyestuff.
  • this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic tint, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting
  • thermochromic agents thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, and also fibres, especially interference fibres. Needless to say, these various materials may be combined so as to afford the
  • the dyestuffs may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one additive usually used in cosmetics, chosen, for example,, from reducing agents, thickeners, film-forming agents that are especially hydrophobic, silicone elastomers, softeners,
  • emollients emollients, antifoams, antioxidants, moisturizers, UV-screening agents, preserving agents, ceramides, cosmetic active agents, peptizers, neutralizers , fragrances, proteins, vitamins,
  • propellants hydrophilic or lipophilic, film-forming or non-film- forming polymers; lipophilic or hydrophilic gelling agents, as a function of the intended use of the composition.
  • the above additives are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01% and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the present invention can be any composition according to the present invention.
  • aromatic silicone oil is added after (a) hydrocarbon oil, (c) wax, and (d) pasty fatty substance are well mixed.
  • the present invention also relates to a use of the composition according to the present invention for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising the application to the skin and/or the lips of the composition.
  • the present invention also provides a cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising
  • Such uses and processes according to the present invention can provide a shiny deposit having good color transfer resistance to the skin and/or the lips.
  • compositions in accordance with Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were prepared as solid lip makeup products.
  • the constituents are shown in Table 1 below. In Table 1, all
  • components are based on "% by weight" as active raw materials.
  • Example 1 The compositions of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 5 were obtained according to the following protocol:
  • component (b) was introduced.
  • the pigmentary material was incorporated into the mixture, then isohexadecane was introduced, and stirring continued until the mixture was homogeneous.
  • compositions were poured into moulds preheated to 45°C, to produce sticks 11.5 mm in diameter. The whole was placed at room temperature for 5 minutes, and then it was left to cool in a freezer for about 15 minutes to obtain test lipsticks.
  • the color transfer resistance was evaluated after applying the composition and rubbing the lower and the upper lips together for 5 seconds,, and by pressing the lips to a white ceramic cup 5 minutes after applying the compositions on the lips.
  • the composition was applied on Bio Skin (Beaulax) with a fixed number of strokes and the shine was measured by a gloss meter (GM- 268, MINOLTA) with the conditions of 60 degree illuminating angle and 60 degree acceptance angle.
  • the deposit amount was measured by its weight loss after
  • the lipstick obtained according to Example 1 was evaluated according to sensorial consumer tests on the following sensorial properties by 10 panelists:
  • Example 1 had good color transfer resistance and good gloss property, and thus it can provide a shiny deposit on the lips. Especially, while the deposit amount of Example 1 was relatively low compared to those of the comparative examples, it showed good shine. Therefore, it can be concluded that the composition according to Example 1 can provide shine on the lips effectively.
  • the lipstick obtained according to Example 1 was highly evaluated according to the sensorial consumer test because it produces :

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition, comprenant : (a) au moins un hydrocarbure liquide, (b) au moins une huile de silicone aromatique, (c) au moins une cire, et (d) au moins une substance grasse pâteuse, dans laquelle la (d) substance grasse pâteuse comprend un ester d'acides gras et un polyol ramifié ou un dimère de polyol dans lesquels seulement une partie des groupes hydroxyle du polyol ou du dimère de polyol est estérifiée avec les acides gras.
PCT/JP2015/084225 2014-12-08 2015-12-01 Composition comprenant un hydrocarbure liquide, une huile de silicone aromatique, de la cire, et une substance grasse pâteuse WO2016093184A1 (fr)

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KR1020177014683A KR102092087B1 (ko) 2014-12-08 2015-12-01 탄화수소 오일, 방향족 실리콘 오일, 왁스 및 페이스트성 지방 물질을 포함하는 조성물
CN201580065329.9A CN106999418B (zh) 2014-12-08 2015-12-01 包含烃油、芳族硅油、蜡和糊状脂肪物质的组合物

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FR3075633B1 (fr) * 2017-12-22 2019-12-06 Lvmh Recherche Compositions cosmetiques comprenant des spheroides anhydres disperses dans une phase siliconee
WO2021081859A1 (fr) * 2019-10-31 2021-05-06 L'oreal Composition anhydre solide servant au soin et/ou au maquillage de matières kératiniques

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WO2008012442A2 (fr) * 2006-07-28 2008-01-31 Stearinerie Dubois Fils Mélange d'esters partiels de monopentaérythritol, dipentaérythritol et tripentaérythritol, procédé pour leur obtention et produit cosmétique en contenant
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JP2016108280A (ja) 2016-06-20
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KR102092087B1 (ko) 2020-03-23
CN106999418A (zh) 2017-08-01
JP6723684B2 (ja) 2020-07-15

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