WO2015184965A1 - 一种轻薄针织面料 - Google Patents

一种轻薄针织面料 Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015184965A1
WO2015184965A1 PCT/CN2015/080476 CN2015080476W WO2015184965A1 WO 2015184965 A1 WO2015184965 A1 WO 2015184965A1 CN 2015080476 W CN2015080476 W CN 2015080476W WO 2015184965 A1 WO2015184965 A1 WO 2015184965A1
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Prior art keywords
yarn
frame
lattice
knitted fabric
fabric
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PCT/CN2015/080476
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
翁佛全
梁海燕
张晴
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Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
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Toray Fibers and Textiles Research Laboratories China Co Ltd
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Priority to JP2016570851A priority Critical patent/JP2017516925A/ja
Priority to CN201580005107.8A priority patent/CN105934544B/zh
Publication of WO2015184965A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015184965A1/zh
Anticipated expiration legal-status Critical
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    • D—TEXTILES; PAPER
    • D04—BRAIDING; LACE-MAKING; KNITTING; TRIMMINGS; NON-WOVEN FABRICS
    • D04B—KNITTING
    • D04B1/00—Weft knitting processes for the production of fabrics or articles not dependent on the use of particular machines; Fabrics or articles defined by such processes
    • D04B1/10—Patterned fabrics or articles

Definitions

  • the invention relates to a knitted fabric, in particular to a lightweight knitted fabric having a plaid pattern.
  • the light and thin fabrics currently on the market are classified into woven and knitted fabrics.
  • woven fabrics occupy most of the market share due to their light weight and high strength, especially in order to increase the apparent appearance of the fabrics, and by adjusting the fiber types and proportions of the warp and weft yarns, the plaid-shaped lightweight fabrics are greatly affected. Consumers love it, but the softness and stretchability of such fabrics are not enough to meet people's needs.
  • knitted fabrics are superior in flexibility and stretchability to woven fabrics, they are difficult to combine with both thinness and lightness. High burst strength, so the market share is less, but there are also many related developments.
  • a weft-knitted small square fabric disclosed in Chinese Patent Document CN201120289351.0 includes a horizontally arranged spun yarn woven area and a vertically arranged roving needle-drawing area, and the square effect is obvious, thereby improving the moisture wicking property of the fabric, The appearance is improved, the hand feels soft and the elasticity is good, but the fabric is a double-sided woven fabric.
  • the use of the thick yam is reduced to a certain extent, the weight of the fabric is reduced to a certain extent, but further improvement is needed.
  • Another example is a new type of hollow cloth disclosed in Chinese patent document CN201320459035.2.
  • the jacquard machine Through the jacquard machine, the human cotton woven area is formed into an opaque square small lattice, and the polyester monofilament woven area is formed into a transparent square small lattice.
  • Such a combination can increase the layering of the hollowed fabric and reduce the gram weight of the fabric, but the human cotton and the polyester monofilament Alternately used, the formed pattern tends to be more horizontal stripes; and the use of the jacquard machine also increases the processing cost accordingly.
  • the weaving cost of the single weft knitting machine is low, the gram weight of the obtained woven fabric is lower than that of the double woven fabric of the same specification, but the breaking strength is difficult to meet the requirements; and the single weft knitting machine has only four needle paths.
  • the horizontal reinforcing stripe structure can be easily realized, but the longitudinal reinforcing stripe is difficult to achieve.
  • an object of the present invention is to provide a single-face knitted fabric which is low in cost, soft to the touch, low in weight (lightweight), and high in strength.
  • the knitted fabric of the present invention is a single weft knitted fabric composed of a plaid pattern circulating unit; and the knitted fabric has a basis weight of 30 to 90 g/m 2 and a breaking strength of 300 KPa or more.
  • the knitted fabric of the invention solves the problem of low breaking strength of the single-face knitted fabric through the plaid pattern circulation design, improves the wearing performance of the fabric, and at the same time gives the fabric a more unique appearance, and solves the apparent monotonicity of the thin and light fabric.
  • the problem greatly satisfies people's pursuit of individualized clothing; and the hand feels soft and delicate, and the texture is light.
  • Figure 1 is a schematic diagram of a single-sided plaid pattern.
  • the light and thin knitted fabric of the present invention is a single weft weave composed of a plaid pattern circulation unit Things.
  • the plaid pattern circulation unit here is composed of a frame and a filling area inside the grid, wherein the frame (horizontal and longitudinal) is arranged in a circle by the same kind of yarn; the filling area inside the grid is made of another kind of yarn (such as different materials) Or the different deniers are arranged in a circle, the border yarn is not looped in this area, which produces a lattice effect, and at the same time ensures that the fabric is still qualified even if the weight is reduced.
  • the lightweight knit fabric of the present invention has a breaking strength of 300 KPa or more and a basis weight of 30 to 90 g/m 2 . Under the premise of ensuring the rupture strength is acceptable (JIS standard 294KPa), it is impossible to achieve a gram weight of 30g/m 2 or less.
  • the size of the plaid-shaped circulation unit is also related to the rupture strength and lightness of the thin fabric.
  • the number of coils of the vertical frame is 3 to 36, and the number of coils of the horizontal frame is not less than 5. If the number of coils of the vertical frame is less than 3 and the number of coils of the horizontal frame is less than 5, the size of the plaid pattern is small, and the apparent fineness of the frame is larger than the fineness of the apparent yarn of the filling area, and the filling is performed. The proportion of the apparent yarn in the area is reduced, so that the feel of the fabric becomes rough and the weight is increased, which is not conducive to weight reduction.
  • the size of the plaid pattern should be determined according to the fineness of the yarn of the frame.
  • the fineness of the yarn used in the lattice frame and the filling area must be low, taking into account the lightweightness of the fabric and the possibility of braiding conditions (the fineness of the non-elastic yarn is less than that of the 20D circular knitting machine).
  • the fine yarn of the frame is 30 to 80 denier, more preferably 40 to 60 denier when the filament is multifilament, and the fineness of the frame when the apparent yarn is a spun yarn is 80 to 100 pieces, more preferably 80 pieces.
  • Apparent yarn in the filling zone is filament
  • the fineness at the time of the yarn is 20 to 50 denier, more preferably 20 to 40 denier, and the fineness in the case where the apparent yarn in the packed region is a spun yarn is 80 to 100, more preferably 100.
  • the fineness of the apparent yarn of the filling zone is larger than the fineness of the apparent yarn of the frame, the surface of the fabric exhibits a vertical and horizontal groove effect, which is not conducive to the improvement of the breaking strength of the fabric, and thus the apparent yarn of the filling zone.
  • the proportion of the larger will affect the lightweight of the fabric. Therefore, it is required that the fineness of the frame appearance yarn of the present invention is larger than the fineness of the apparent yarn of the filling zone.
  • the fabric cannot be made lightweight.
  • the yarn used is a spun yarn
  • the strength of the spun yarn is lower than that of the filament multifilament, in order to obtain a fabric of the same strength, the spun yarn used has a fineness larger than that of the filament multifilament.
  • the fineness of the yarn in the filling zone is fine, and a strong sense of perspective can be obtained. It should be noted that, in the above, the fineness of the spun yarn is counted, and the higher the value of the count, the smaller the fineness of the yarn.
  • the fiber raw material of the lattice border apparent yarn and the fiber raw material of the lattice filling zone apparent yarn are not particularly limited, and may be chemical fibers or natural fibers.
  • the cross-sectional shape of the chemical fiber may be a circular shape, or may be a polygonal shape such as a triangle shape or a quadrangular shape; and may be full extinction, semi-dull, large light, or the like.
  • nylon fiber has high strength and wear resistance and good water absorption, which can impart high burst strength and wearing comfort to light and thin fabrics.
  • Polyester fiber has the characteristics of corrosion resistance, crispness, easy washing and quick drying, and it is good for light and thin fabrics.
  • the fiber raw material of the lattice border apparent yarn is preferably one of nylon, polyester, cotton or viscose.
  • the fiber raw material of the apparent filling yarn of the lattice filling zone is preferably at least selected from the group consisting of nylon, polyester, One of cotton or viscose; such as nylon/viscose blended yarn, polyester/viscose blended yarn, polyester/cotton blended yarn, nylon spun yarn, polyester spun yarn, pure cotton yarn, nylon filament Etc., but not limited to this.
  • the lattice frame serves as a shape retaining function in addition to the appearance aesthetics and the reinforcing function, so that the elastic yarn is not suitable; and the lattice filling area functions to ensure the lightweightness of the fabric, so There is no problem in using elastic yarns in the area.
  • the elastic yarn used herein is not particularly limited and may be a spandex bare yarn, a spandex-coated yarn, a spandex core yarn or a high-elastic filament (polybutylene terephthalate fiber, polyterephthalic acid).
  • the propylene glycol ester fiber, the polybutylene terephthalate fiber/polyparaphenylene glycol fiber, etc.) is preferably a spandex bare wire in an amount of 5% to 10%.
  • the lightweight fabric of the present invention has a light weight index of less than 0.3 g/m 2 ⁇ KPa, and when the strength and lightness index is above 0.3 g/m 2 ⁇ KPa, there are two cases where the gram of the fabric is greater than 90 g. /m 2 or the breaking strength is less than 300KPa; the smaller the lightness index, the better the combination of the lightweightness and the breaking strength of the fabric.
  • the weight of the existing thin and light single-knit fabric is generally 110 g/m 2 or more. Under the same conditions, the fabric of the invention has superior lightness and burst strength.
  • the plaid fabric formed by the needle stitching or the two different types of yarns has a lot of cracking strength, and the lattice stripe effect with vertical and horizontal convexity is formed, which is unique.
  • the appearance of the style in addition, also makes the fabric with excellent shape retention.
  • test methods of each parameter involved in the present invention are as follows:
  • a 100 cm 2 swatch was taken using a disk sampler, and the weight value (g) of the swatch was weighed, and the weight value *100 was calculated to obtain a weight of 1 square meter swatch, that is, gram weight (g/m 2 ) ).
  • Strength lightweight index (g/m 2 ⁇ kpa) gram weight (g/m 2 ) / breaking strength (kpa).
  • 30D-24f-full-dull nylon FDY (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) was selected as the lattice frame appearance yarn, 20D-12f-semi-matting nylon FDY (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) as The apparently-filled yarn of the grid-filled area was woven on a 32G Japanese Fukuhara single-sided circular knitting machine in a four-cycle circular structure to obtain the lightweight knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the first, third, and fourth roads are 30D nylon FDY, and the fourth road is all looped to form a horizontal frame of the lattice, the first stitches of the first and third roads are looped, and the remaining stitches are floated.
  • the grid longitudinal frame is formed for the cycle; the second path is 20D nylon FDY, and the first needle is a floating line, and the other needles are all looped to form an apparent yarn of the lattice filling area.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 79 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 310 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.25 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of coils of the vertical frame is three, and the horizontal frame is The number of coils is five, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • 80D-72f-full-dull nylon FDY (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) was selected as the lattice frame appearance yarn, 50D-36f-full matt nylon FDY (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) as Appearance yarn in the filling area, on 32G Japan Fukuhara single-sided circular knitting machine
  • the 72-way one-cycle tissue was woven to obtain the lightweight knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the odd road and the 72nd road are 80D nylon FDY
  • the 71st and 72nd roads all form a horizontal frame of the lattice
  • the first needle of other odd roads is looped
  • the remaining stitches are formed by the float loop.
  • the vertical frame of the grid; the even path is 50D nylon FDY, the first needle is the floating line, and the rest are all looped to form the lattice of the filling area of the apparent yarn.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 81 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 370 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.22 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of coils of the vertical frame is 36, and the horizontal frame is The number of coils is 36, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • 50D-36f-full-dull nylon FDY (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) is used as the lattice frame appearance yarn
  • 30D-24f-full matt nylon FDY (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.)
  • 20D-127C Spandex (Japan Leica Co., Ltd.) was used as the apparent yarn of the filling zone, and was woven on a 32G Japanese Fukuhara single-sided circular knitting machine with 72 channels as a circular structure to obtain the lightweight knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the odd road and the 72nd road are 50D nylon FDY, and the 71st and 72nd roads form a horizontal frame of the lattice, the first needle of other odd roads is looped, and the remaining stitches are floated.
  • the cycle forms a longitudinal frame of the lattice; the even path is 30D nylon FDY and spandex, and the first needle is a floating line, and the remaining all are looped to form a lattice filled surface apparent yarn.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 32 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 312 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.10 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of coils of the vertical frame is 36, and the horizontal frame is The number of coils is 36, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • 30D-24f-full-dull polyester FDY (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) is used as the lattice frame appearance yarn, 20D-12f-semi-dull polyester FDY (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.)
  • the apparent yarn of the filled area was woven on a 32G Japanese Fukuhara single-sided circular knitting machine in a four-cycle circular structure to obtain the lightweight knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the first, third, and fourth roads are 30D polyester FDY, and the fourth road is all looped to form a horizontal frame of the lattice, the first stitches of the first and third roads are looped, and the remaining stitches are floated.
  • the vertical frame of the lattice is formed by looping; the second way is 20D polyester FDY, and the first needle is a floating line, and the other needles are looped to form an apparent yarn of the lattice filling area.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 84 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 304 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.28 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of coils of the vertical frame is three, and the horizontal frame is The number of coils is five, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • 80D-48f full-dull polyester FDY (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) was selected as the lattice frame appearance yarn, 50D-36f-full-dull polyester FDY (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.)
  • the apparent yarn of the filled area was woven on a 32G Japanese Fukuhara single-sided circular knitting machine with 72 channels as one cycle, and the lightweight knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained.
  • the odd road and the 72nd road are 80D polyester FDY, and the 71st and 72nd roads are fully circled to form the horizontal frame of the lattice, the first needle of other odd roads is looped, and the remaining stitches are floated.
  • the vertical frame of the lattice is formed by looping; the even path is 50D polyester FDY, and the first needle is a floating line, and the rest are all looped to form a filling area of the grid.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 86 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 354 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.24 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of coils of the vertical frame is 36, and the horizontal frame is The number of coils is 36, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • 80S combed cotton yarn (made by Jiangsu Wuxi First Cotton Spinning Factory) is selected as the lattice frame appearance yarn, 100S combed cotton yarn (made by Jiangsu Wuxi First Cotton Spinning Factory) as the apparent yarn of the filling area, in 32G Japan Fukuhara
  • the circular knitting machine is woven with a 4-way one-cycle structure to obtain the lightweight knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the first, third, and fourth roads are 80S combed cotton yarns, and the fourth road is all looped to form a horizontal frame of the lattice, the first stitches of the first and third roads are looped, and the remaining stitches are floated.
  • the tuck is a longitudinal frame that forms a lattice in a loop; the second path is a 100S combed cotton yarn, and the first needle is a floating line, and the other stitches are looped to form an apparent yarn of the lattice filling area.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 89 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 334 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.27 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of coils of the vertical frame is three, and the horizontal frame is The number of coils is five, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • 80S combed cotton yarn (made by Jiangsu Wuxi First Cotton Spinning Factory) is selected as the lattice frame appearance yarn, 100S combed cotton yarn (made by Jiangsu Wuxi First Cotton Spinning Factory) as the apparent yarn of the filling area, in 32G Japan Fukuhara
  • the surface circular knitting machine was woven with 72 channels as a circular tissue to obtain the light and thin knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the odd road and the 72nd road are 80S combed cotton yarn, and the 71st and 72nd roads form a horizontal frame of the lattice, the first needle of other odd roads is looped, and the remaining stitches are float sets.
  • the circle is a vertical frame which forms a lattice by circulation; the even path is a 100S combed cotton yarn, and the first needle is a floating line, and the rest are all looped to form an apparent yarn of the filling area of the lattice.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 68 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 328 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.21 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of coils of the vertical frame is 36, and the horizontal frame is The number of coils is 36, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • 80S viscose spun yarn (made by Jiangsu Zhangjiagang Hehua Textile Co., Ltd.) was selected as the lattice frame appearance yarn, and 100S viscose spun yarn (manufactured by Jiangsu Zhangjiagang Hehua Textile Co., Ltd.) as the apparent yarn of the filling area.
  • the 32G Japan Fukuhara single-sided circular knitting machine was woven with a 4-way circular structure to obtain the lightweight knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the first, third, and fourth roads are 80S viscose yarns, and the fourth road is all looped to form a horizontal frame of the lattice, the first stitches of the first and third roads are looped, and the remaining stitches are floated.
  • the tuck is a vertical frame that forms a lattice in a loop; the second path is a 100S viscose yarn, and the first needle is a floating line, and the other stitches are all looped to form an apparent yarn of the lattice filling area.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 81 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 329 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.25 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of longitudinal coils of the vertical frame is three, and the horizontal border The number of coils is five, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • 80S viscose spun yarn (made by Jiangsu Zhangjiagang Hehua Textile Co., Ltd.) was selected as the lattice frame appearance yarn, and 100S viscose spun yarn (manufactured by Jiangsu Zhangjiagang Hehua Textile Co., Ltd.) as the apparent yarn of the filling area.
  • the 72-way one-cycle structure was woven to obtain the lightweight knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the odd road and the 72nd road are 80S combed cotton yarn, and the 71st and 72nd roads are fully looped to form the horizontal frame of the lattice, the first needle of other odd roads is looped, and the remaining stitches are floated.
  • the circle is a loop to form a vertical frame of the lattice; the even path is a 100S combed cotton yarn, and the first needle is a floating line, and the rest are all Looping forms the apparent area of the fill area of the grid.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 59 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 319 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.18 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of longitudinal coils of the vertical frame is 36, and the horizontal border The number of coils is 36, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • 100D-144f-full-dull polyester FDY (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) is used as the lattice frame appearance yarn, 30D-24f-full-dull polyester FDY (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.)
  • the apparent yarn of the filled area was woven on a 32G Japan Fukuhara single-sided circular knitting machine with a 36-cycle circular structure to obtain the lightweight knitted fabric of the present invention.
  • the odd road and the 36th road are 100D polyester FDY, and the 35th and 36th roads are fully looped to form the horizontal frame of the lattice, the first needle of other odd roads is looped, and the remaining stitches are floated.
  • the longitudinal frame of the lattice is formed by looping; the even path is 30D polyester FDY, and the first needle is a floating line, and the rest are all looped to form a filling area of the grid.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 90 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 360 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.25 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of coils of the vertical frame is 18, and the horizontal frame is The number of coils is 18, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • 80D-48f-full-dull polyester FDY (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) was selected as the lattice frame appearance yarn, 60D-36f-full-dull polyester FDY (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) as The apparent yarn of the filled area was woven on a 32G Japanese Fukuhara single-sided circular knitting machine with 72 channels as one cycle, and the lightweight knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained. Among them, the odd road and the 72nd road are 80D polyester FDY, and the 71st and 72nd roads are all formed into circles.
  • the horizontal border of the grid, the first stitch of the other odd roads is the loop, the remaining stitches are the vertical frame of the grid formed by the float loops; the even road is 60D polyester FDY, and the first stitch is the float line, and the rest All of the loops form the apparent area of the fill area of the grid.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 88 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 356 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.25 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of coils of the vertical frame is 36, and the horizontal frame is The number of coils is 36, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • 70D-48f-full-dull polyester FDY (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) is selected as the lattice frame appearance yarn, and 100S combed cotton yarn (manufactured by Jiangsu Wuxi First Cotton Spinning Factory) as the apparent yarn of the filling area.
  • the fabric was woven on a 32G Japanese Fuyuan single-sided circular knitting machine with 72 channels as one cycle, and the lightweight knitted fabric of the present invention was obtained.
  • the odd road and the 72nd road are 70D polyester yarns, and the 71st and 72nd roads form a horizontal frame of the lattice, and the first needles of other odd roads are looped, and the remaining stitches are floated.
  • the longitudinal frame of the lattice is formed by looping; the even path is a 100S combed cotton yarn, and the first needle is a floating line, and the rest are all looped to form a filling area apparent yarn of the lattice.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 70 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 335 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.21 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of coils of the vertical frame is 36, and the horizontal frame is The number of coils is 36, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • 30D-24f-full-dull nylon FDY (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) was selected as the lattice frame appearance yarn, 20D-12f-semi-matting nylon FDY (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) as Appearance yarn in the filling area, on 32G Japan Fukuhara single-sided circular knitting machine Weaving is carried out in a 2-way, one-cycle structure to obtain a light-knit fabric.
  • the first way is 30D nylon FDY, and all the stitches are circled to form a horizontal frame of the lattice, and the first stitch of the next cycle forms a longitudinal frame of the lattice;
  • the second way is 20D nylon FDY, and
  • the first needle is a floating line, and the other stitches are looped to form an apparent yarn of the lattice filling area.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 98 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 315 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.31 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of coils of the vertical frame is two, and the horizontal frame is The number of coils is four, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • 100D-36f-full-dull nylon FDY (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) was selected as the lattice frame appearance yarn, 60D-36f-total matte nylon FDY (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) as The apparent yarn in the filled area was woven on a 32G Japanese Fukuhara single-sided circular knitting machine with 72 channels as a circular structure to obtain a light-knit fabric.
  • the odd road and the 72nd road are 100D nylon FDY, and the 71st and 72nd roads are all formed into a horizontal frame of the lattice, the first needle of other odd roads is looped, and the remaining stitches are floated.
  • the cycle forms a vertical frame of the lattice; the even path is 60D nylon FDY, and the first needle is a floating line, and the rest are all looped to form an apparent superficial yarn of the lattice.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 113 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 380 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.30 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of coils of the vertical frame is 36, and the horizontal frame is The number of coils is 36, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • the first stitch of the stitch forms the longitudinal frame of the lattice; the second road is 20D polyester FDY, and the first One needle is a floating line, and the other stitches are looped to form an apparent yarn of the lattice filling area.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 103 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 302 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.34 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of coils of the vertical frame is two, and the horizontal frame is The number of coils is four, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • 100D-36f-full-dull polyester FDY (made by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.) is used as the lattice frame appearance yarn
  • 60D-36f-full-dull polyester FDY (manufactured by Toray Synthetic Fiber (Nantong) Co., Ltd.)
  • the apparent yarn of the filled area was woven on a 32G Japanese Fuyuan single-sided circular knitting machine with a loop of 72 roads to obtain a light-knit fabric.
  • the odd road and the 72nd road are 100D polyester FDY, and the 71st and 72nd roads form a horizontal frame of the lattice, the first needle of other odd roads is looped, and the remaining stitches are float loops.
  • the cycle forms a longitudinal frame of the lattice; the even path is 60D polyester FDY, and the first needle is a floating line, and the remaining all are looped to form a lattice filled surface apparent yarn.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 116 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 361 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.32 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of coils of the vertical frame is 36, and the horizontal frame is The number of coils is 36, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • 80S combed cotton yarn (made by Jiangsu Wuxi First Cotton Spinning Factory) as the lattice border Yarn
  • 100S combed cotton yarn (manufactured by Jiangsu No. 1 Cotton Spinning Factory) was used as the apparent yarn in the filling zone. It was woven on a 32G Japanese Fuyuan single-sided circular knitting machine with a 2-way one-cycle structure to obtain a light-knit fabric.
  • the first road is 80S combed cotton yarn, and all the stitches are circled to form a horizontal frame of the lattice.
  • the first stitch is looped to form a vertical frame of the lattice;
  • the second road is 100S combed cotton yarn.
  • the first needle is a floating line, and the other stitches are looped to form an apparent yarn of the lattice filling area.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 101 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 340 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.30 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of coils of the vertical frame is two, and the horizontal frame is The number of coils is four, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • 60S combed cotton yarn (made by Jiangsu Wuxi First Cotton Spinning Factory) is used as the lattice frame appearance yarn
  • 80S combed cotton yarn (made by Jiangsu Wuxi First Cotton Spinning Factory) as the apparent yarn of the filling area, in 32G Japan Fukuhara
  • the circular knitting machine is woven with a loop of 72 roads to obtain a light and thin knitted fabric.
  • the odd road and the 72nd road are 60S combed cotton yarn, and the 71st and 72nd roads all form a horizontal frame of the lattice in a circle, the first needle of other odd roads is a circle, and the remaining stitches are float lines.
  • the circle is a vertical frame which forms a lattice by circulation; the even path is an 80S combed cotton yarn, and the first needle is a floating line, and the remaining all are looped to form a lattice filling surface apparent yarn.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 112 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 341 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.33 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of coils of the vertical frame is 36, and the horizontal frame is The number of coils is 36, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • 80S viscose spun yarn (made by Jiangsu Zhangjiagang Hehua Textile Co., Ltd.)
  • the frame appearance yarn, 100S viscose spun yarn (made by Jiangsu Zhangjiagang Hehua Textile Co., Ltd.) is the apparent yarn in the filling area, and is woven on a 32G Japan Fukuhara single-sided circular knitting machine with a 2-way circular structure. Get a thin knit fabric.
  • the first road is 80S viscose spun yarn, and all the stitches are circled to form a horizontal frame of the lattice.
  • the first stitch of the stitch forms a vertical frame of the lattice;
  • the second road is 100S adhesive.
  • the spun yarn, and the first needle is a floating line, and the other stitches are looped to form an apparent yarn of the lattice filling area.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 99 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 330 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.30 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of coils of the vertical frame is two, and the horizontal frame is The number of coils is four, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • 60S viscose spun yarn (made by Jiangsu Zhangjiagang Hehua Textile Co., Ltd.) is used as the checkered yarn of the lattice frame, and 80S viscose spun yarn (made by Jiangsu Zhangjiagang Hehua Textile Co., Ltd.) is the apparent yarn of the filling area.
  • the 32G Japan Fukuhara single-sided circular knitting machine is woven with a 72-way circular structure to obtain a light-knit fabric.
  • the odd road and the 72nd road are 60S viscose spun yarn, and the 71st and 72nd roads are all looped to form a horizontal frame of the lattice, the first needle of other odd roads is looped, and the remaining stitches are floated.
  • the tuck is a vertical frame that forms a lattice in a loop; the even path is an 80S viscose spun yarn, and the first needle is the apparent yarn of the filling area in which all the other floats form a lattice.
  • the obtained fabric has a basis weight of 105 g/m 2 , a breaking strength of 323 KPa, and a light weight index of 0.33 g/m 2 ⁇ kpa; in a tartan-shaped circulation unit, the number of coils of the vertical frame is 36, and the horizontal frame is The number of coils is 36, and the performance parameters are shown in Table 1.
  • Example 1 and Example 2 it can be seen from Example 1 and Example 2 that the larger the fineness of the frame and the filling zone yarn, the larger the basis weight of the obtained fabric and the higher the breaking strength, and the combined result is that the value of the strength and lightness index is smaller.
  • the fiber material used in the frame is the same as the fiber diameter of the frame, the apparent yarn fineness of the filling zone, and the number of the loop-shaped loop frame coils.
  • the fiber raw material used is a small value of the strength and lightness index of the polyester.
  • Example 6 and Example 7 it can be seen from Example 6 and Example 7 that in a plaid pattern cycle, the smaller the number of frame loops, the larger the grammage of the resulting fabric, and the greater the rupture strength, and the overall result is that the value of the strength and lightness index is larger.
  • Comparative Example 1 Comparative Example 3, Comparative Example 5, and Comparative Example 7, when the longitudinal stitches of the frame were less than three and the lateral stitches were less than five, the resulting fabric had a high breaking strength, but the gram weight was relatively large.

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Abstract

一种轻薄针织面料，该针织面料为由格子花型循环单元组成的单面纬编物，该针织面料的克重为30~90g/m 2，破裂强度为300KPa以上。该面料中的格子花型循环单元由格子边框及格子内部的填充区组成，具有纵横凸出的格子条纹效果，且质地轻盈，透视感强，保型性强，成本低。

Description

一种轻薄针织面料 技术领域
本发明涉及一种针织面料，具体涉及一种具有格子花型的轻薄针织面料。
背景技术
从古至今，人们对服装的追求从未停止过，由最初的遮羞到现在的美观，由最初的保暖到现在的各种各样的功能。现如今，面对每年超高温的夏天，人们迫切需求一款既轻薄又柔软的服装面料。
目前市面上出现的轻薄面料分为机织类和针织类。其中机织类面料由于轻薄性好、强度高占据了大部分市场份额，特别是为了增加面料的表观美观度，通过调整经纬纱的纤维种类和配比形成的格子花型轻薄面料，深受广大消费者的喜爱，但此类面料的柔软性及伸展性不足，并不能完全满足人们的需求；针织类面料虽然柔软性及伸展性比机织类面料优越，但难以同时兼具轻薄性与高破裂强度，因此市场份额占据较少，不过也有不少相关开发。
如中国专利文献CN201120289351.0中公开的一种纬编小方格面料，包括水平排列的细纱编织区和竖直排列的粗纱抽针区，方格效应明显，提高了面料的吸湿导汗性、改善了表观风格，手感柔软、弹性好，但该面料为双面编织物，虽然通过粗细纱的配合使用在一定程度上降低了面料的克重实现了轻量化，但仍需进一步改善。
又如中国专利文献CN201320459035.2中公开的一种新型的镂空布， 通过提花机使人棉编织区形成不透明方形小格、涤纶单丝编织区形成透明方形小格，这样的组合可以增加镂空布的层次感、降低面料的克重，但由于人棉与涤纶单丝交替使用，所形成的花型更趋向于横条纹；而提花机的使用也相应地提高了加工成本。
另外，单面纬编机的编织成本低廉，所得编织物的克重相较于同规格的双面编织物要低，但破裂强度很难达到要求；并且单面纬编机只有四种针道，横向加强条纹组织能够轻易实现，但纵向加强条纹却难于做到。
发明内容：
针对上述问题，本发明的目的在于提供一种成本低廉、手感柔软、克重低(轻薄)、强度高的单面针织面料。
本发明的技术解决方案：
本发明的针织面料为由格子花型循环单元组成的单面纬编物；且该针织面料的克重为30～90g/m2，破裂强力为300KPa以上。
本发明的针织面料，通过格子花型循环设计，解决了单面针织面料破裂强度低的问题，提高了面料的服用性能；同时赋予面料更加独特的表观，解决了轻薄面料表观单调性的问题，极大地满足了人们对服装个性化追求；而且手感柔软细腻、质地轻盈。
附图说明
图1为单面格子花型示意图。
具体实施方式
本发明的轻薄针织面料，为由格子花型循环单元组成的单面纬编织 物。这里的格子花型循环单元由边框及格子内部的填充区组成，其中边框(横向、纵向)由同种纱线成圈排列而成；格子内部的填充区由另一种纱线(比如原料不同或者纤度不同)成圈排列而成，边框纱线在该区域内不成圈，从而产生格子效果，同时可以保证面料即便克重降低破裂强度也仍然合格。
本发明的轻薄针织面料的破裂强力为300KPa以上，克重为30～90g/m2。在保证破裂强力合格的前提下(JIS标准的规定为294KPa)，针织物的克重达到30g/m2以下是不可能的。
格子花型循环单元尺寸的大小亦关乎轻薄面料的破裂强力及轻薄性。本发明中每个格子花型循环单元中，优选纵向边框的线圈个数为3～36个，横向边框的线圈个数为不少于5个。如果纵向边框的线圈个数少于3个、横向边框的线圈个数少于5个的话，格子花型的尺寸偏小，且边框表观纱线纤度大于填充区表观纱线的纤度，填充区表观纱线所占的比例就会减少，以至于面料的手感变得粗糙，克重增加，不利于轻量化。格子花型大小应根据边框表观纱线的纤度而定，边框表观纱线纤度越大，可选用的格子花型也就越大；本发明的格子循环单元的横向边框的线圈个数更优选为5～36个(小提花机最多36针)。
为了获得轻薄的效果，格子边框以及填充区所使用的纱线的纤度必须要低，综合考虑面料的轻量性以及编成条件的可能性(非弹性纱线的纤度小于20D圆编机难以编织)，本发明优选边框表观纱线为长丝复丝时的纤度为30～80旦尼尔、更优选40～60旦尼尔；边框表观纱线为短纤纱时的纤度为80～100支、更优选80支。填充区表观纱线为长丝复 丝时的纤度为20～50旦尼尔、更优选20～40旦尼尔，填充区表观纱线为短纤纱时的纤度为80～100支、更优选100支。同时考虑到如果填充区表观纱线的纤度大于边框表观纱线的纤度的话，面料表面呈现纵横的凹槽效果，不利于面料的破裂强度的提高，而且这样一来填充区表观纱线的所占比重较大，会影响到面料的轻量性。所以要求本发明的边框表观纱线的纤度大于填充区表观纱线的纤度。边框和填充区表观纱线的纤度过大的话，面料无法实现轻量化。当所用纱线为短纤纱时，由于短纤纱的强度比长丝复丝要低，因此为了获得同等强度的面料，所用短纤纱的纤度要比长丝复丝大。另外，填充区的纱线纤度较细，可以获得较强的透视感。需要说明的是，上文中对于短纤纱的纤度以支数计，支数的数值越高，则纱线的纤度越小。旦尼尔和支数可按照“旦尼尔＝5315/支数”进行换算。
本发明的轻薄针织面料中，格子边框表观纱线的纤维原料、格子填充区表观纱线的纤维原料均没有特别限定，可以是化学纤维也可以是天然纤维。其中化学纤维的断面形状可以是圆形，也可以是三角形、四角形等异形形状；可以是全消光、半消光、大有光等。众所周知，尼龙纤维具有较高的强度和耐磨性以及良好的吸水性，可以赋予轻薄面料高破裂强度和穿着舒适性；涤纶纤维具有耐腐蚀、挺括、易洗快干的特点，赋予轻薄织物良好的保型性和“洗可穿”性；棉和粘胶纤维是天然纤维，具有纯天然的柔软特性以及优良的吸水性，是贴身内衣材料的优秀候选者。因此，格子边框表观纱线的纤维原料优选为尼龙、涤纶、棉或粘胶中的一种。格子填充区表观纱线的纤维原料优选至少选自尼龙、涤纶、 棉或粘胶中的一种；如尼龙/粘胶混纺纱、涤纶/粘胶混纺纱、涤纶/棉混纺纱、尼龙短纤纱、涤纶短纤纱、纯棉纱、尼龙长丝等，但不限于此。
考虑到最终产品的穿着舒适性，最好是赋予本发明轻薄针织面料一定的弹性。本发明中，格子边框除了提供表观美观性、加固功能外还充当着保形的作用，所以不适合使用弹性纱线；而格子填充区的作用是为了确保面料的轻量性，所以在该区域使用弹性纱线是没有问题的。这里所用弹性纱线没有特别限定，可以是氨纶裸丝，也可以是氨纶包覆纱、氨纶包芯纱或者高弹化纤长丝(聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯纤维、聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维、聚对苯二甲酸丁二醇酯纤维/聚对苯乙二醇酯纤维等)，优选氨纶裸丝，其含量5％～10％。
本发明的轻薄面料的强度轻量指数小于0.3g/m2·KPa，当强度轻量指数在0.3g/m2·KPa以上时，有可能会出两种情况，即面料的克重大于90g/m2或破裂强力小于300KPa；强度轻量指数越小越能体现面料的轻量性和破裂强力相结合的优越性。现有的轻薄单面针织面料的克重一般都在110g/m2以上，同等条件下，本发明面料的轻量性、破裂强度更加优越。相较于现有的同等编织条件下通过抽针或两种不同类型纱线交编形成的格子花型面料的破裂强度提高了很多，而且形成了具有纵横凸出的格子条纹效果，获得了独特的表观风格，另外也使面料具有优良的保型性。
实施例
下面结合实施例及比较例对本发明作进一步的描述。
本发明中所涉及的各参数的测试方法如下：
(1)克重
使用圆盘取样器刻下100cm2的布样，称重得到该布样的重量值(g)，将该重量值*100，计算得到1平方米布样的重量，即克重(g/m2)。
(2)破裂强力
根据JIS L1096(2010年)A法。
(3)强度轻量指数(g/m2·kpa)＝克重(g/m2)/破裂强力(kpa)。
实施例1
选用30D-24f-全消光尼龙FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为格子边框表观纱线，20D-12f-半消光尼龙FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为格子填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上以4路为一个循环的组织进行编织，得到本发明的轻薄针织面料。其中，第1、3、4路为30D尼龙FDY，且第4路全部成圈形成格子的横向边框，第1、3路的第一针为成圈、剩下的针数以浮线集圈为循环形成格子纵向边框；第2路为20D尼龙FDY，且第一针为浮线、其它的针数全部成圈形成格子填充区的表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为79g/m2、破裂强力为310KPa、强度轻量指数为0.25g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的线圈个数为3个，横向边框的线圈个数为5个，各性能参数见表1。
实施例2
选用80D-72f-全消光尼龙FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为格子边框表观纱线，50D-36f-全消光尼龙FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上 以72路为一个循环的组织进行编织，得到本发明的轻薄针织面料。其中，奇数路以及第72路为80D尼龙FDY，第71、72路全部成圈形成格子的横向边框，其它奇数路的第一针为成圈、剩下的针数为浮线集圈循环形成格子的纵向边框；偶数路为50D尼龙FDY，第一针为浮线、其余全部成圈形成格子的填充区表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为81g/m2、破裂强力为370KPa、强度轻量指数为0.22g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的线圈个数为36个，横向边框的线圈个数为36个，各性能参数见表1。
实施例3
选用50D-36f-全消光尼龙FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为格子边框表观纱线，30D-24f-全消光尼龙FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)、20D-127C氨纶(日本莱卡公司)作为填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上以72路为一个循环的组织进行编织，得到本发明的轻薄针织面料。其中，奇数路以及第72路为50D尼龙FDY，且第71、72路全成圈形成格子的横向边框，其它奇数路的第一针为成圈、剩下的针数以浮线集圈为循环形成格子的纵向边框；偶数路为30D尼龙FDY和氨纶，且第一针为浮线、其余全部成圈形成格子的填充区表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为32g/m2、破裂强力为312KPa、强度轻量指数为0.10g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的线圈个数为36个，横向边框的线圈个数为36个，各性能参数见表1。
实施例4
选用30D-24f-全消光涤纶FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为格子边框表观纱线，20D-12f-半消光涤纶FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上以4路为一个循环的组织进行编织，得到本发明的轻薄针织面料。其中，第1、3、4路为30D涤纶FDY，且第4路全部成圈形成格子的横向边框，第1、3路的第一针为成圈、剩下的针数以浮线集圈为循环形成格子的纵向边框；第2路为20D涤纶FDY，且第一针为浮线、其它的针数成圈形成格子填充区的表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为84g/m2、破裂强力为304KPa、强度轻量指数为0.28g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的线圈个数为3个，横向边框的线圈个数为5个，各性能参数见表1。
实施例5
选用80D-48f一全消光涤纶FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为格子边框表观纱线，50D-36f-全消光涤纶FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上以72路为一个循环的组织进行编织，得到本发明的轻薄针织面料。其中，奇数路以及第72路为80D涤纶FDY，且第71、72路全成圈以形成格子的横向边框，其它奇数路的第一针为成圈、剩下的针数以浮线集圈为循环形成格子的纵向边框；偶数路为50D涤纶FDY，且第一针为浮线、其余全部成圈形成格子的填充区表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为86g/m2、破裂强力为354KPa、强度轻量指数为0.24g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的线圈个数为36 个，横向边框的线圈个数为36个，各性能参数见表1。
实施例6
选用80S精梳棉纱线(江苏无锡第一棉纺厂制)作为格子边框表观纱线，100S精梳棉纱线(江苏无锡第一棉纺厂制)作为填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上以4路为一个循环的组织进行编织，得到本发明的轻薄针织面料。其中，第1、3、4路为80S精梳棉纱线，且第4路全部成圈形成格子的横向边框，第1、3路的第一针为成圈、剩下的针数以浮线集圈为循环形成格子的纵向边框；第2路为100S精梳棉纱线，且第一针为浮线、其它的针数成圈以形成格子填充区的表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为89g/m2，破裂强力为334KPa，强度轻量指数为0.27g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的线圈个数为3个，横向边框的线圈个数为5个，各性能参数见表1。
实施例7
选用80S精梳棉纱线(江苏无锡第一棉纺厂制)作为格子边框表观纱线，100S精梳棉纱线(江苏无锡第一棉纺厂制)作为填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上以72路为一个循环的组织进行编织，得到本发明的轻薄针织面料。其中，奇数路以及第72路为80S精梳棉纱线，且第71、72路全成圈形成格子的横向边框，其它奇数路的第一针为成圈、剩下的针数以浮线集圈为循环形成格子的纵向边框；偶数路为100S精梳棉纱线，且第一针为浮线、其余全部成圈以形成格子的填充区表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为68g/m2、破裂强力为328KPa、强度轻量指数为 0.21g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的线圈个数为36个，横向边框的线圈个数为36个，各性能参数见表1。
实施例8
选用80S粘胶短纤纱(江苏张家港和华纺织有限公司制)作为格子边框表观纱线，100S粘胶短纤纱(江苏张家港和华纺织有限公司制)作为填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上以4路为一个循环的组织进行编织，得到本发明的轻薄针织面料。其中，第1、3、4路为80S粘胶纱线，且第4路全部成圈形成格子的横向边框，第1、3路的第一针为成圈、剩下的针数以浮线集圈为循环形成格子的纵向边框；第2路为100S粘胶纱线，且第一针为浮线、其它的针数全部成圈以形成格子填充区的表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为81g/m2、破裂强力为329KPa、强度轻量指数为0.25g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的纵向线圈个数为3个，横向边框的线圈个数为5个，各性能参数见表1。
实施例9
选用80S粘胶短纤纱(江苏张家港和华纺织有限公司制)作为格子边框表观纱线，100S粘胶短纤纱(江苏张家港和华纺织有限公司制)作为填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上以72路为一个循环的组织进行编织，得到本发明的轻薄针织面料。其中，奇数路以及第72路为80S精梳棉纱线，且第71、72路全成圈以形成格子的横向边框，其它奇数路的第一针为成圈、剩下的针数以浮线集圈为循环以形成格子的纵向边框；偶数路为100S精梳棉纱线，且第一针为浮线、其余全部 成圈形成格子的填充区表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为59g/m2、破裂强力为319KPa、强度轻量指数为0.18g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的纵向线圈个数为36个，横向边框的线圈个数为36个，各性能参数见表1。
实施例10
选用100D-144f-全消光涤纶FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为格子边框表观纱线，30D-24f-全消光涤纶FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上以36路为一个循环的组织进行编织，得到本发明的轻薄针织面料。其中，奇数路以及第36路为100D涤纶FDY，且第35、36路全成圈以形成格子的横向边框，其它奇数路的第一针为成圈、剩下的针数以浮线集圈为循环形成格子的纵向边框；偶数路为30D涤纶FDY，且第一针为浮线、其余全部成圈形成格子的填充区表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为90g/m2、破裂强力为360KPa、强度轻量指数为0.25g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的线圈个数为18个，横向边框的线圈个数为18个，各性能参数见表1。
实施例11
选用80D-48f-全消光涤纶FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为格子边框表观纱线，60D-36f-全消光涤纶FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上以72路为一个循环的组织进行编织，得到本发明的轻薄针织面料。其中，奇数路以及第72路为80D涤纶FDY，且第71、72路全成圈以形成 格子的横向边框，其它奇数路的第一针为成圈、剩下的针数以浮线集圈为循环形成格子的纵向边框；偶数路为60D涤纶FDY，且第一针为浮线、其余全部成圈形成格子的填充区表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为88g/m2、破裂强力为356KPa、强度轻量指数为0.25g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的线圈个数为36个，横向边框的线圈个数为36个，各性能参数见表1。
实施例12
选用70D-48f-全消光涤纶FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为格子边框表观纱线，100S精梳棉纱线(江苏无锡第一棉纺厂制)作为填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上以72路为一个循环的组织进行编织，得到本发明的轻薄针织面料。其中，奇数路以及第72路为70D涤纶纱线，且第71、72路全成圈形成格子的横向边框，其它奇数路的第一针为成圈、剩下的针数以浮线集圈为循环形成格子的纵向边框；偶数路为100S精梳棉纱线，且第一针为浮线、其余全部成圈以形成格子的填充区表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为70g/m2、破裂强力为335KPa、强度轻量指数为0.21g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的线圈个数为36个，横向边框的线圈个数为36个，各性能参数见表1。
比较例1
选用30D-24f-全消光尼龙FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为格子边框表观纱线，20D-12f-半消光尼龙FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上 以2路一循环的组织进行编织，得到轻薄针织面料。其中，第1路为30D尼龙FDY，且所有针数全部成圈以形成格子的横向边框，下一个循环中第一针的成圈形成了格子的纵向边框；第2路为20D尼龙FDY，且第一针为浮线、其它的针数成圈形成格子填充区的表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为98g/m2、破裂强力为315KPa、强度轻量指数为0.31g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的线圈个数为2个，横向边框的线圈个数为4个，各性能参数见表1。
比较例2
选用100D-36f-全消光尼龙FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为格子边框表观纱线，60D-36f-全消光尼龙FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上以72路为一个循环的组织进行编织，得到轻薄针织面料。其中，奇数路以及第72路为100D尼龙FDY，且第71、72路全成圈形成格子的横向边框，其它奇数路的第一针为成圈、剩下的针数以浮线集圈为循环形成格子的纵向边框；偶数路为60D尼龙FDY，且第一针为浮线、其余全部成圈以形成格子的填充区表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为113g/m2、破裂强力为380KPa、强度轻量指数为0.30g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的线圈个数为36个，横向边框的线圈个数为36个，各性能参数见表1。
比较例3
选用30D-24f-全消光涤纶FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为格子边框表观纱线，20D-12f-半消光涤纶FDY(东丽合成纤维(南 通)有限公司制)作为填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上以2路一循环的组织进行编织，得到轻薄针织面料。其中，第1路为30D涤纶FDY，且所有针数全部成圈形成格子的横向边框，下一个循环中第一针的成圈形成了格子的纵向边框；第2路为20D涤纶FDY，且第一针为浮线、其它的针数成圈形成格子填充区的表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为103g/m2、破裂强力为302KPa、强度轻量指数为0.34g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的线圈个数为2个，横向边框的线圈个数为4个，各性能参数见表1。
比较例4
选用100D-36f-全消光涤纶FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为格子边框表观纱线，60D-36f-全消光涤纶FDY(东丽合成纤维(南通)有限公司制)作为填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上以72路位一个循环的组织进行编织，得到轻薄针织面料。其中，奇数路以及第72路为100D涤纶FDY，且第71、72路全成圈形成格子的横向边框，其它奇数路的第一针为成圈、剩下的针数以浮线集圈为循环形成格子的纵向边框；偶数路为60D涤纶FDY，且第一针为浮线、其余全部成圈形成格子的填充区表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为116g/m2、破裂强力为361KPa、强度轻量指数为0.32g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的线圈个数为36个，横向边框的线圈个数为36个，各性能参数见表1。
比较例5
选用80S精梳棉纱线(江苏无锡第一棉纺厂制)作为格子边框表观 纱线，100S精梳棉纱线(江苏无锡第一棉纺厂制)作为填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上以2路一循环的组织进行编织，得到轻薄针织面料。其中，第1路为80S精梳棉纱线，且所有针数全部成圈形成格子的横向边框，下一个循环中第一针的成圈形成格子的纵向边框；第2路为100S精梳棉纱线，且第一针为浮线、其它的针数成圈形成格子填充区的表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为101g/m2、破裂强力为340KPa、强度轻量指数为0.30g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的线圈个数为2个，横向边框的线圈个数为4个，各性能参数见表1。
比较例6
选用60S精梳棉纱线(江苏无锡第一棉纺厂制)作为格子边框表观纱线，80S精梳棉纱线(江苏无锡第一棉纺厂制)作为填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上以72路位一个循环的组织进行编织，得到轻薄针织面料。其中，奇数路以及第72路为60S精梳棉纱线，且第71、72路全部成圈形成格子的横向边框，其它奇数路的第一针为成圈、剩下的针数以浮线集圈为循环形成格子的纵向边框；偶数路为80S精梳棉纱线，且第一针为浮线、其余全部成圈形成格子的填充区表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为112g/m2、破裂强力为341KPa、强度轻量指数为0.33g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的线圈个数为36个，横向边框的线圈个数为36个，各性能参数见表1。
比较例7
选用80S粘胶短纤纱(江苏张家港和华纺织有限公司制)为格子边 框表观纱线，100S粘胶短纤纱(江苏张家港和华纺织有限公司制)为填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上以2路为一个循环的组织进行编织，得到轻薄针织面料。其中，第1路为80S粘胶短纤纱，且所有针数全部成圈形成格子的横向边框，下一个循环中第一针的成圈形成了格子的纵向边框；第2路为100S粘胶短纤纱，且第一针为浮线、其它的针数成圈形成格子填充区的表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为99g/m2、破裂强力为330KPa、强度轻量指数为0.30g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的线圈个数为2个，横向边框的线圈个数为4个，各性能参数见表1。
比较例8
选用60S粘胶短纤纱(江苏张家港和华纺织有限公司制)为格子边框表观纱线，80S粘胶短纤纱(江苏张家港和华纺织有限公司制)为填充区表观纱线，在32G日本福原单面圆编机上以72路为一个循环的组织进行编织，得到轻薄针织面料。其中，奇数路以及第72路为60S粘胶短纤纱，且第71、72路全部成圈形成格子的横向边框，其它奇数路的第一针为成圈、剩下的针数以浮线集圈为循环形成格子的纵向边框；偶数路为80S粘胶短纤纱，且第一针为浮线其余全部成圈形成格子的填充区表观纱线。
所得面料的克重为105g/m2、破裂强力为323KPa、强度轻量指数为0.33g/m2·kpa；一个格子花型循环单元中，纵向边框的线圈个数为36个，横向边框的线圈个数为36个，各性能参数见表1。
Figure PCTCN2015080476-appb-000001
由实施例1与实施例2可知，边框及填充区纱线的纤度越大，所得面料的克重越大、破裂强力越高，其综合结果是强度轻量指数的数值越小。由实施例1与实施例4、实施例2与实施例5可知，边框表观纱线纤度、填充区表观纱线纤度以及格子花型循环边框线圈个数相同时，所用纤维原料为尼龙比所用纤维原料为涤纶的强度轻量指数的数值小。
由实施例6与实施例7可知，一个格子花型循环中，边框线圈个数越少，所得面料的克重越大，破裂强力越大，其综合结果是强度轻量指数的数值越大。
由实施例10、11可知，边框的纵向线圈个数为3～36个、横向线圈个数不少于5个时，即便边框或者填充区所用纱线的纤度高些，只要填充区或者边框所用纱线的纤度低些，所得面料的克重及破裂强力也能满足要求。
由比较例1、比较例3、比较例5、比较例7可知，边框的纵向线圈小于3个、横向线圈少于5个时，所得面料的破裂强力虽然较高，但克重比较大。

Claims (6)

  1. 一种轻薄针织面料，其特征是：该针织面料为由格子花型循环单元组成的单面纬编物；且该针织面料的克重为30～90g/m2，破裂强力为300KPa以上。
  2. 根据权利要求1所述的轻薄针织面料，其特征是：所述格子花型循环单元的一个循环中，边框的纵向线圈个数为3～36个，横向线圈个数不少于5个。
  3. 根据权利要求1或2所述的轻薄针织面料，其特征是：所述格子花型循环单元中，边框表观纱线为长丝复丝时的纤度为30～80旦尼尔、边框表观纱线为短纤纱时的纤度为80～100支；填充区表观纱线为长丝复丝时的纤度为20～50旦尼尔、填充区表观纱线为短纤纱时的纤度为80～100支；且边框表观纱线的纤度大于填充区表观纱线的纤度。
  4. 根据权利要求1或2所述的轻薄针织面料，其特征是：所述边框表观纱线选自尼龙、涤纶、棉、粘胶纤维中的一种，所述填充区表观纱线至少选自尼龙、涤纶、棉、粘胶纤维中的一种。
  5. 根据权利要求4所述的轻薄针织面料，其特征是：所述填充区表观纱线中还含有氨纶。
  6. 根据权利要求1所述的轻薄针织面料，其特征是：所述针织面料的强度轻量指数小于0.3g/m2·KPa。
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CN113151960A (zh) * 2021-05-06 2021-07-23 青岛颐和针织有限公司 粗细抽针搭配的氨纶罗纹面料的编织方法
CN113564789A (zh) * 2021-06-22 2021-10-29 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 具有立体镂空效果的针织面料及其制作方法
CN114075711A (zh) * 2020-08-11 2022-02-22 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 一种针织面料
CN114635222A (zh) * 2022-03-01 2022-06-17 常熟华贸纺织科技有限公司 一种具有莫代尔手感的全棉空气层纺织方法
CN115369555A (zh) * 2022-08-31 2022-11-22 广东德润纺织有限公司 一种薄如蝉翼的纬编单面面料的制备方法
CN119145112A (zh) * 2024-10-29 2024-12-17 泉州海天材料科技股份有限公司 一种单层效应的高抗紫外遮热凉感纬编面料及其生产方法

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CN111719224A (zh) * 2020-06-30 2020-09-29 金华市真彩服饰有限公司 山羊绒亲肤暖衣针织面料
CN114075711A (zh) * 2020-08-11 2022-02-22 东丽纤维研究所（中国）有限公司 一种针织面料
CN113151960A (zh) * 2021-05-06 2021-07-23 青岛颐和针织有限公司 粗细抽针搭配的氨纶罗纹面料的编织方法
CN113564789A (zh) * 2021-06-22 2021-10-29 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 具有立体镂空效果的针织面料及其制作方法
CN113564789B (zh) * 2021-06-22 2024-04-30 信泰(福建)科技有限公司 具有立体镂空效果的针织面料及其制作方法
CN114635222A (zh) * 2022-03-01 2022-06-17 常熟华贸纺织科技有限公司 一种具有莫代尔手感的全棉空气层纺织方法
CN115369555A (zh) * 2022-08-31 2022-11-22 广东德润纺织有限公司 一种薄如蝉翼的纬编单面面料的制备方法
CN115369555B (zh) * 2022-08-31 2024-04-05 广东德润纺织有限公司 一种薄如蝉翼的纬编单面面料的制备方法
CN119145112A (zh) * 2024-10-29 2024-12-17 泉州海天材料科技股份有限公司 一种单层效应的高抗紫外遮热凉感纬编面料及其生产方法

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