WO2015180083A1 - Lotion tonique hydratante non grasse - Google Patents
Lotion tonique hydratante non grasse Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2015180083A1 WO2015180083A1 PCT/CN2014/078750 CN2014078750W WO2015180083A1 WO 2015180083 A1 WO2015180083 A1 WO 2015180083A1 CN 2014078750 W CN2014078750 W CN 2014078750W WO 2015180083 A1 WO2015180083 A1 WO 2015180083A1
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- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- composition
- weight
- skin
- daltons
- glycol
- Prior art date
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Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/34—Alcohols
- A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/8105—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of unsaturated aliphatic hydrocarbons having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
- A61K8/8111—Homopolymers or copolymers of aliphatic olefines, e.g. polyethylene, polyisobutene; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
Definitions
- the present invention is directed to a skin toner.
- Toner also known as "clear lotion” is a low viscosity personal care composition. Toner is typically applied to skin after a facial or skin cleanser is used and before a skin moisturizer is used. The use of toner has long been deemed as a supplementary step in the skin care regimen to neutralize the elevated pH of the skin surface which is caused by the facial or skin cleanser, and thereby prepare the skin for better absorption of the moisturizer.
- one aspect of the invention provides a skin toner composition
- a skin toner composition comprising: (a) 0.005% to 2%, preferably from 0.005% to 1%, alternatively from 0.01% to 0.1%, of a polysaccharide polymer by weight of the composition, wherein the polysaccharide polymer has a molecular weight greater than 750,000 Daltons, preferably greater than 1,000,000 Daltons; (b) 6% to 20%, preferably 7% to 15%, alternatively 8% to 10% of glycerin by weight of the composition; (c) 1% to 7%, preferably 2% to 6% of butylene glycol by weight of the composition; (d) 1% to 11%, preferably 2% to 10%, more preferably 4% to 8% pentylene glycol or a mixture
- Another aspect of the invention provides for a method of moisturizing skin comprising the step of applying a composition of the present invention to skin, preferably wherein the skin is facial skin or hand skin.
- a treatment regimen comprising the steps: cleansing skin; toning the cleansed skin with a composition of present invention, preferably wherein the skin is facial skin or hand skin; and optionally moisturizing the toned skin.
- the term "moisturization” and “hydration” are used herein interchangeably.
- the present invention comprises from 0.005% to 2%, preferably from 0.005% to 1%, alternatively 0.01% to 0.05%, alternatively from 0.01% to 0.1%, of a polysaccharide polymer by weight of the skin toner composition, wherein the polysaccharide polymers has a molecular weight greater than 750,000 Daltons, preferably greater than 1,000,000 Daltons, alternatively from 1,000,000 to 10,000,000 Daltons.
- the polysaccharide polymer has a main chain constructed from mannan.
- the polysaccharide has branches, preferably short branches of xylose and/or glucuronic acid.
- the polysaccharide polymer may comprise at least 10% glucuronic acid by weight of the polysaccharide polymer, preferably more than 15%, preferably more than 17% of glucuronic acid, alternatively not greater than 50% of the glucuronic acid by weigh of the polysaccharide polymer.
- a polysaccharide polymer is Tremella fuciformis sporocarp polysaccharide (INCI name) also known as Tremeall hyaluronic acid (CTFA name), and can be obtained from Shanghai Huiwen Biotech Co., Ltd.
- the skin toner composition comprises from 10 part per million (ppm) to
- the polysaccharide polymer preferably from 20 ppm to 80 ppm, more preferably from 30 ppm to 70 ppm, even more preferably from 40 ppm to 60 ppm, alternatively 50 ppm, alternatively combinations thereof, of the polysaccharide polymer in the composition.
- traditional thickeners such as hydroxyethylcellulose, xanthan gum, carbomer and the like, may be used to build a certain product texture.
- the many of these thickeners can contribute to the undesirable tackiness feel.
- the use of Tremella fuciformis sporocarp polysaccharide may contribute to a desirable texture but minimizes the tackiness feel.
- the present invention comprises from 6% to 20%, preferably 7% to 15%, alternatively 8% to 10% glycerin by weight of the skin toner composition.
- Glycerin is a known moisturizer but is also known to impart a greasy feel, i.e., tackiness.
- tackiness a greasy feel
- the formulations of the present invention deliver these benefits while minimizing tackiness.
- One advantage of the present invention is good hydration, parity with other formulations, at relatively lower concentrations of glycerol, with the additional benefit of minimizing tackiness.
- the present invention comprises from 0% to 5%, preferably from 0% to 4%, more preferably from 0% to 3%, alternatively from 0% to 2%, alternatively from 0% to 1%, alternatively from 0% to 0.5%, of ethanol by weight of the skin toner composition.
- the composition is substantially free or free of ethanol. It is observed that ethanol contributes to the tackiness in some high glycerol containing moisturizing compositions. This tackiness effect is not necessarily perceived immediately upon application of the composition to skin, but rather, it becomes more perceivable over time.
- the solvent effect of ethanol may be replaced, at least in part, by the optimizing the amount of butylenes glycol and pentylene glycol (or a mixture of pentylene glycol and dipropylene glycol).
- the present invention comprises from 1% to 7%, preferably 2% to 6%, of butylene glycol by weight of the skin toner composition.
- the present invention comprises from 1% to 11%, preferably 2% to 10%, more preferably 4% to 8% pentylene glycol or a mixture of dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol by weight of the skin toner composition.
- pentylene glycol or a mixture of dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol by weight of the skin toner composition.
- a mixture of dipropylene glycol and pentylene glycol is used.
- the present invention comprises from 0.1% to 5%, preferably 0.5% to 3%, alternatively from 1% to 2%, alternatively from 0.1 to 1.5%, alternatively from 1.1% to 4%, alternatively combinations thereof, of polyethylene glycol ("PEG") by weight of the skin toner composition.
- PEG polyethylene glycol
- Different molecular weights of PEG may be used, for example, from 100 Daltons to 4,000 Daltons, preferably from 100 Daltons to 3,000 Daltons.
- a mixture of lower and higher molecular weight PEGs are used.
- the lower molecular weight PEG is from 200 Daltons to 500 Daltons.
- the higher molecular weight PEG (of the mixture) is from 1,200 Daltons to 1,800 Daltons.
- this mixture is a 2: 1 to 1:2 weight ratio, respectively, more preferably about a 1: 1 weight ratio.
- PEG polyethylene glycol
- this mixture is a 2: 1 to 1:2 weight ratio, respectively, more preferably about a 1: 1 weight ratio.
- PEG-32 may enhance long lasting moisturization affects of glycerin, particularly at the relatively higher levels of glycerin herein described.
- the present invention comprises from 60% to 90%, preferably from 65% to 85%, more preferably from 70% to 80% of water by weight of the skin toner composition.
- the relatively high amount of water helps to contribute the relative low viscosity of the toner and the clear or translucent appearance of the toner composition (at least in some embodiments of the invention). Viscosity
- a viscosity of the present composition is within the range 1 mPa.s to 1,000 mPa.s, preferably from 1 mPa.s to 100 MPa.s, alternatively from 80 mPa.s, to 200 mPa.s.
- the product viscosity can be measured by a commercially available viscometer, e.g., BROOKFIELD DV II + Viscometer using a UL adapter and an LV spindle set.
- a rotation speed of 5 rpm should be used.
- a rotation speed of 50 rpm should be used.
- Optional adjunct ingredients may be added including, but not limited to, preservatives, chelators, perfumes, pH modifiers, pH buffers, solvents, diluents, viscosity modifiers, colorants, skin whitening active (e. g., 1% to 5% niacinamide by weight of the composition) and the like.
- the present invention is also directed to moisturizing or otherwise treating skin comprising the step of applying a composition of the present invention to skin, preferably by manually rubbing the composition (e.g., lotion) into the skin.
- a composition of the present invention can also be used as part of a treatment regimen.
- skin e.g., facial or hand
- the cleaned skin may be moisturized by the composition of the present invention.
- the present invention provides moisturizing benefits exceeding that of leading skin toner benchmarks for moisturizing benefits and yet also provides less tackiness.
- Table 1 provides the formulations of Inventive Example 1; and benchmarks for skin toner hydration including The Procter & Gamble Company's Olay® RegeneristTM Micro- sculpting Essence WaterTM sold in China and Shiseido's Aupres ® Timelock Energizer Lotion IITM; and Aupres® Whitening Energizer Lotion IITM also sold in China.
- Table 2 provides comparative data for hydration.
- Table 3 provides comparative data for tackiness. Chinese expert panelists are used for the research.
- Table 1 Formulations of inventive and benchmark products providing relevant component ingredients.
- the inventive skin toner composition is compared with the benchmarks, and differs in several key aspects.
- Olay® product does have almost twice the amount of Tremella fuciformis sporocarp polysaccharide as the inventive formulation and contains butylene glycol, Olay® does not have any: ethanol, glycerin, and polyethylene glycol.
- the Aupres® products although having a high level of glycerin and contain PEG and butylene glycol; these products do not have any Tremella fuciformis sporocarp polysaccharide, and pentylene glycol. Notably the Aupres® products have a high level of ethanol.
- the relevant ingredients of the Aupres® are obtained from the packaging ingredient list and from chemical analysis.
- Hydration of the inventive and three benchmark compositions are assessed.
- the relevant components are previously described in Table 1.
- Hydration test method is the well-known capacitance method (Corneometer CM 825), which is based on measurement of the capacitance of the skin surface.
- the measuring interdigital electrode indicates changes in capacitance of the skin due to variations in the moisture content of stratum corneum.
- Application of water on the skin surface is used as a control.
- the results are converted in arbitrary hydration units varying from 0 to 120. The higher the units, the more hydration is imparted to the skin by the formulation.
- Table 2 The results are provided in Table 2 below.
- inventive composition corneometer results increased by 53.5 units compared to the control (water) result at 15min, and still by 35.2 units after 40min.
- inventive formulation's corneometer result increased 39.3% and 51.6% at 15min, 48.5% and parity at 40min.
- Table 2 Hydration results from baseline vs. time of inventive composition and benchmarks.
- the inventive composition has less tackiness than the benchmark compositions (Olay® and Aupres ® benchmarks). Data is presented in Table 3 below.
- the test method for tackiness (or so called "greasy feel") is a descriptive analysis panel test. Blinded, monadic, single-use evaluations are conducted under controlled environmental conditions, by a trained expert panel (10 panelists) using standardized procedures. The grading is between 0-8 for the tackiness attribute. Tackiness is the perception of a sticky feel, i.e., fingers do not release easily when pressed against the skin surface. It is evaluated by pressing fleshy area of cheek with finger pads using light pressure ( ⁇ 28 grams), wherein 0 means non-tacky, 4 means moderate, and 8 means very much. In other words, the lower the grade, the less of the undesirable tackiness attribute.
- Each product sample is pre-measured (0.1ml) and is presented to the panelist by a moderator using syringe with the appropriate blinding code.
- Each product is presented on the center of cheek directly by each panelist.
- the panelists press the fleshy area just under the cheekbone in an upward motion with a light touch ( ⁇ 28 grams pressure). A grading value is then provided by the panelist.
- Table 3 Tackiness v. Time of Inventive Composition and Benchmarks.
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- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
L'invention concerne une composition de lotion tonique améliorée qui apporte à la peau les effets bénéfiques de l'humidification (c'est-à-dire, l'hydratation), sans laisser de sensation grasse sur la peau.
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/CN2014/078750 WO2015180083A1 (fr) | 2014-05-29 | 2014-05-29 | Lotion tonique hydratante non grasse |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
PCT/CN2014/078750 WO2015180083A1 (fr) | 2014-05-29 | 2014-05-29 | Lotion tonique hydratante non grasse |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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WO2015180083A1 true WO2015180083A1 (fr) | 2015-12-03 |
Family
ID=54697865
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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PCT/CN2014/078750 WO2015180083A1 (fr) | 2014-05-29 | 2014-05-29 | Lotion tonique hydratante non grasse |
Country Status (1)
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WO (1) | WO2015180083A1 (fr) |
Cited By (1)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN107446825A (zh) * | 2017-09-11 | 2017-12-08 | 华熙福瑞达生物医药有限公司 | 一株银耳菌株及其应用 |
Citations (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO1999049841A1 (fr) * | 1998-03-30 | 1999-10-07 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Compositions pour soins de la peau |
JP2005330257A (ja) * | 2004-04-19 | 2005-12-02 | Nippon Fine Chem Co Ltd | 化粧料 |
US20060222608A1 (en) * | 2005-04-01 | 2006-10-05 | Agricultural Research Institute | Edible tremella polysaccharide for skin care |
WO2013192004A2 (fr) * | 2012-06-21 | 2013-12-27 | L'oreal | Composition cosmétique libérant de l'eau |
-
2014
- 2014-05-29 WO PCT/CN2014/078750 patent/WO2015180083A1/fr active Application Filing
Patent Citations (4)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
WO1999049841A1 (fr) * | 1998-03-30 | 1999-10-07 | The Procter & Gamble Company | Compositions pour soins de la peau |
JP2005330257A (ja) * | 2004-04-19 | 2005-12-02 | Nippon Fine Chem Co Ltd | 化粧料 |
US20060222608A1 (en) * | 2005-04-01 | 2006-10-05 | Agricultural Research Institute | Edible tremella polysaccharide for skin care |
WO2013192004A2 (fr) * | 2012-06-21 | 2013-12-27 | L'oreal | Composition cosmétique libérant de l'eau |
Non-Patent Citations (3)
Title |
---|
"Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Revitalizing Essence Water", 22 August 2010 (2010-08-22), Retrieved from the Internet <URL:http://www.cosdna.com/chs/ cosmetic_364b38395.html> [retrieved on 20141127] * |
COSDNA: "Olay Regenerist Micro-Sculpting Revitalizing Essence Water", 1 December 2009 (2009-12-01), XP002755060, Retrieved from the Internet <URL:http://www.cosdna.com/eng/cosmetic_c4c926328.html> [retrieved on 20160226] * |
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; May 2012 (2012-05-01), KOSÉ: "Moisture Essence", XP002755371, Database accession no. 1790667 * |
Cited By (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
CN107446825A (zh) * | 2017-09-11 | 2017-12-08 | 华熙福瑞达生物医药有限公司 | 一株银耳菌株及其应用 |
CN107446825B (zh) * | 2017-09-11 | 2019-12-06 | 华熙生物科技股份有限公司 | 一株银耳菌株及其应用 |
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