WO2015086241A1 - Traitement capillaire contenant de l'huile et du polyéthylène glycol - Google Patents

Traitement capillaire contenant de l'huile et du polyéthylène glycol Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015086241A1
WO2015086241A1 PCT/EP2014/074279 EP2014074279W WO2015086241A1 WO 2015086241 A1 WO2015086241 A1 WO 2015086241A1 EP 2014074279 W EP2014074279 W EP 2014074279W WO 2015086241 A1 WO2015086241 A1 WO 2015086241A1
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Prior art keywords
oil
weight
formula
composition according
preferred
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PCT/EP2014/074279
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Marlene Battermann
Thomas Hippe
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2015086241A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015086241A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/39—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/002—Preparations for repairing the hair, e.g. hair cure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/24—Thermal properties
    • A61K2800/242—Exothermic; Self-heating; Heating sensation

Definitions

  • the invention relates to agents for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which contains in a cosmetic carrier at least one oil and a PEG compound.
  • Care products for keratinic fibers often have the disadvantage that they complain the hair and thus reduce its fullness. This problem occurs especially with products that are left in the hair (so-called leave-on products). In contrast, products that are rinsed out shortly after use (so-called rinse-off products) often do not have sufficient care potential. It is an object of the present invention to provide hair treatment compositions which sustain the hair sustainably, improve combability, shine and feel without complaining about the hairstyle. Ideally, this should be achieved with products that can be rinsed off the hair in a relatively short time after their application, as well as remain on the hair.
  • Another object of the present invention was to make the care experience even more apparent to the consumer, i. on the one hand to reinforce the care effects and on the other hand to underline a perceptible for the consumer feeling.
  • the present invention relates to compositions for the care of keratinic fibers, containing
  • compositions according to the invention are formulated as water-poor or anhydrous, i. they contain a maximum of 5 wt .-% of free water.
  • low in water or “anhydrous” is understood according to the invention as meaning that the compositions contain from 0 to a maximum of 5% by weight, preferably from 0 to a maximum of 2% by weight, of free water, based on the total composition Crystal water, water of hydration or similar molecularly bound water, which may be contained in the ingredients used, does not constitute free water for the purposes of the present application.
  • compositions according to the invention contain from 20 to 60% by weight of oil (s).
  • silicone oils in particular have proven to be suitable. Cyclic silicone oils like
  • Octamethyltetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane are very suitable, with decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (also referred to simply as cyclopentasiloxane) being a particularly suitable oil for the use according to the invention.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 5 to 50% by weight
  • Wt .-% preferably 7.5 to 47.5 wt .-%, more preferably 10 to 45 wt .-%, particularly preferably
  • linear silicones can be used as oil, wherein linear
  • Dimethicones are represented by the following structural formula (Sil):
  • Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (Sil .1):
  • the radicals R and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 daltons.
  • the viscosities are between 50 and 10,000,000 mm 2 / s measured at 25 ° C using a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970.
  • Preferred viscosities are between 100 and 350 mm 2 / s.
  • Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Sil .2)
  • x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10.
  • the dimethicones (Sil) are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 5 to 50% by weight, preferably 7.5 to 47.5% by weight, more preferably 10 to 45% by weight, particularly preferably 12.5 to 42.5 wt .-% and in particular 15 to 40 wt .-% based on the total composition.
  • Particularly preferred agents contain short-chain silicones of the formula (Sil .2) in which x is 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5. Extremely preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 5 to 50% by weight, preferably 7.5 to 47.5% by weight, more preferably 10 to 45% by weight, more preferably 12% by weight , 5 to 42.5 wt .-% and in particular 15 to 40 wt .-% octamethyltrisiloxane.
  • dimethiconols (Si8) can be used as oils.
  • the dimethiconols may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched.
  • Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8-I):
  • Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8 - II):
  • the radicals R and R 2 are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C 2 to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical.
  • the numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000.
  • the molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D.
  • the viscosities are between 100 and 350 mm 2 / s measured at 25 ° C using a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970.
  • Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 5 to 50% by weight, preferably 7.5 to 47.5% by weight, more preferably 10 to 45% by weight, more preferably 12% by weight , 5 to 42.5 wt .-% and in particular 15 to 40 wt .-% dimethiconol (s) included.
  • Oils in the context of the present invention are, for example, also vegetable oils such as acai oil, algae oil, amaranth seed oil, aniseed oil, annatto oil, apricot kernel oil, apple seed oil, argan oil, avellana oil, avocado oil, babacu oil, babassu oil, baobab oil, cottonseed oil, bitter almond oil, borage seed oil, Broccoli seed oil, camelina oil, cashew oil, cupuacu oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, fish oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, rose hip kernel oil, hemp seed oil, hazelnut oil, raspberry seed oil, elderflower seed oil, honeydew melon oil, jatropha oil, currant seed oil, St.
  • vegetable oils such as acai oil, algae oil, amaranth seed oil, aniseed oil, annatto oil, apricot kernel oil, apple seed oil, argan oil,
  • Any natural oil in particular any oil which is known as food or from the field of natural medicine, may be part of the composition according to the invention. Furthermore, according to the invention, a mixture of any of the aforementioned oils can also be used.
  • Preferred oils according to the invention are selected from apricot kernel oil, apple seed oil, argan oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, bitter almond oil, cashew oil, cupuacum oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, rose hip kernel oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, raspberry seed oil, elderflower seed oil, honeydew melon oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, cocoa oil, Coffee oil, camellia oil, cherry oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, laurel oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, mango butter, passion fruit oil, marula oil, melon oil, poppy seed oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, olive kernel oil, papaya seed oil, patchouli oil, peach kernel oil, plum kernel oil, pecan nut oil, perilla oil, pistachio nut oil, cranberry seed oil, Rice germ oil, rice oil, castor oil, sach
  • Particularly preferred oils are selected from apricot kernel oil, argan oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, bitter almond oil, cashew oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, rose hip kernel oil, hazelnut oil, raspberry seed oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cherry oil, coconut oil, laurel oil, macadamia nut oil, almond oil, mango butter, passion fruit oil, marula oil, Evening primrose oil, olive oil, olive kernel oil, patchouli oil, peach kernel oil, plum kernel oil, pecan nut oil, pistachio nut oil, sacha inchi oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, sweet almond oil, tea tree oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, wild rose oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil and mixtures thereof.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.125 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.15 to 5% by weight. %, more preferably 0.175 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 2 wt .-% natural oil (s) included.
  • triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
  • liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl -n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octy
  • ester oils are also suitable oils according to the invention.
  • Ester oils are the esters of C6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 fatty alcohols.
  • the monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred.
  • Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures.
  • fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures.
  • isopropyl myristate IPM Rilanit ®
  • isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester Cetiol ® SN
  • 2-ethylhexyl palmitate Cegesoft ® 24
  • stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester Cetiol ® 868
  • cetyl oleate glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ® LC)
  • n-butyl stearate oleyl erucate
  • isopropyl palmitate IPP Rilanit ®
  • oleyl Oleate Cetiol ®
  • hexyl laurate Cetiol ® A
  • di-n-butyl adipate Cetiol ® B
  • myrist IPM Rilanit ®
  • oils according to the invention are dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and diisotridecyl acelate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate , Propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate),
  • Neopentylglycol Finally according to the invention are also suitable symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol or Dicaprylyicarbonat (Cetiol ® CC).
  • suitable symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols for example glycerol or Dicaprylyicarbonat (Cetiol ® CC).
  • suitable oils are mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ®, ® Monomuls 90-L12 or Cutina ® MD.
  • the oils are preferably selected from the vegetable oils and the ester oils and mixtures thereof.
  • PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9 and PEG-10 lead in the compositions according to the invention in the application to a slight heat effect, which leads to improved perception of product performance and enhances the care effects of the compositions of the invention.
  • Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain - based on their weight - 42.5 to 67.5 wt .-%, preferably 45 to 65 wt .-%, more preferably 47.5 to 62.5 wt .-% and in particular 50 to 60 wt .-% polyethylene glycol (s) of the formula (I).
  • compositions comprise from 42.5 to 67.5% by weight, preferably from 45 to 65% by weight, more preferably from 47.5 to 62.5% by weight and in particular from 50 to 60% by weight, of PEG 7, PEG-8, PEG-9 or mixtures of two or all three of these three compounds
  • compositions of the invention may further contain other ingredients, e.g. effect further care effects or improve applicability.
  • compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.15 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.15 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 4% by weight, even more preferably 0.25 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.3 to 1 wt .-% of quaternary ammonium compound (s) from the group
  • radicals R are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or
  • polyquaternium 10 poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium compounds) and / or; vi) quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, and / or
  • polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, in particular Polyquaternium-7 and / or
  • copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate in particular Polyquaternium-11 and / or xii) vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers, in particular Polyquaternium-16 and / or
  • Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1 -2) are the first group of quaternary
  • radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different.
  • the radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:
  • branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
  • aryl or alkaryl radical for example phenyl or benzyl
  • the rest - (X - R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times.
  • n 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
  • -X- a hydroxyalkyl group of one to four carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups.
  • -X- are: -CHOH, -CHCH2OH, -CH2CHOH, -COHCHOH, -CHOHCOH, -CHCHOHCH3, -CH2COHCH3, -CH2CHOHCH2-, -C (CH 2 OH) 2, -CH2CHOHCH2OH, -CH2CH2CHOH, -CH2COHCH3 and Hydroxybutylreste, wherein the bond of -X- to R4 emanates from the free valency of the carbon atom in question
  • R6-0-CO- wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, or
  • R 7 -CO- wherein R 7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and optionally furthermore can be ethoxylated with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units,
  • A represents a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below.
  • the anion of all described cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO3 " , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as maleate , Fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.
  • Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ®, Stepantex® ®, Dehyquart® ®, ® and Armocare® Akypoquat ®.
  • the products Armocare ® VGH-70, Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® C-4046, Dehyquart ® L80, Dehyquart ® F-30, Dehyquart ® AU-35, Rewoquat ® WE18, Rewoquat ® WE38 DPG, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131 are examples of these esterquats.
  • Further inventively particularly preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat1-2) include
  • R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.
  • esterquats with tradenames Armocare ® VGH-70 are, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® L80, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131st
  • Tkat2 Another group are quaternary imidazoline compounds.
  • the formula (Tkat2) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.
  • the radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • the preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat2) contain for R the same hydrocarbon radical.
  • the chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms.
  • A is an anion as previously described.
  • Particular examples according to the invention are, for example available under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. Quaternium-91 is most preferred according to the invention.
  • Cationic surfactants of formula (Tkat1-1) are the third group of preferred quaternary ammonium compounds.
  • R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms optionally with one or more hydroxy groups may be substituted.
  • A is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide and methosulfates.
  • Examples of compounds of the formula (Tkat1) are lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate.
  • Particular preference is given to compounds having at least one cetyl or behenyl radical in the molecule.
  • cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium salts most preferably cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and behenyltrimethylammonium chloride.
  • Extremely preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they contain 0.15 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.11 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.12 to 2% by weight, even more preferably 0, 13 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.15 to 0.75 wt .-% alkyltrimethylammonium chloride (s), in particular cetyltrimethylammonium chloride contain.
  • s alkyltrimethylammonium chloride
  • the last group of quaternary ammonium compounds are amines and / or cationized amines, in particular amidoamines and / or cationized amidoamines.
  • the agents according to the invention comprise, in addition to at least one other of the quaternary ammonium compounds, at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas:
  • R2, R3 and R4 are each independently
  • hydroxyalkyl group having one to four carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH 2 CHOHCH 3, -CH (CH 2 OH) 2, -COH (CH 2 OH) 2 , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and
  • A is an anion as previously described and
  • n is an integer between 1 and 10.
  • R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means.
  • amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R2, R3 and / or R4 in the formula (Tkat3) are a radical according to the general formula CH2CH2OR5, wherein R5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyethyl or hydrogen may have.
  • the preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.
  • the alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.
  • Witcamine ® 100 Incromine ® BB, Mackine ® 401 and other Mackine ® grades, Adogen ® S18V, and as a permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat ® RTM 50, Empigen ® CSC, Swanol ® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat ® UTM 50, Schercoquat® ® BAS ® Lexquat AMG-BEO, or Incroquat ® behenyl HE.
  • All of the abovementioned quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic surfactants and can be used individually or in any desired combinations with each other, amounts of between 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably amounts of 0.01 to 7.5% by weight and very particularly preferably amounts of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.% Are included. The very best results are in amounts of from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent receive. These amounts are also not exceeded or exceeded when mixtures of cationic surfactants are used.
  • compositions according to the invention additionally contain a pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and / or a derivative thereof.
  • Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain 0.01 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.025 to 2.5 wt.%, More preferably 0.05 to 2 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.075 to 1, 5 wt .-%, still more preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 0.5 wt .-% of a Pyrrolidinoncarbonklare and / or a Pyrrolidinoncarbonklarederivates of formula (I)
  • R 4 is hydrogen, an alkali metal ion, an alkaline earth metal ion or an ammonium ion + NHR 5 R 6 R 7 , in which R 5 to R 7 independently of one another hydrogen, alkyl groups with 1 to 22 C atoms, hydroxyalkyl groups with 1 to 4 C atoms, alkenyl groups with 2 to 22 C atoms, acyl groups with 2 to 22 C atoms or optionally substituted aromatic groups with 6 to 10 C atoms Are atoms, and the remaining substituents R to R 3 are hydrogen or alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
  • cosmetic compositions containing 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 2.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 to 2 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.075 to 1, 5 wt .-% , even more preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 0.5 wt .-% 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and / or their sodium salt, more preferably.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention also contain, in addition to the combination of active substances according to the invention, further constituents customary in cosmetic compositions.
  • the selection of these ingredients generally depends on the intended use of the hair treatment agents.
  • compositions according to the invention contain fatty substances (fat) as further active ingredient.
  • Fat substances (fat) are understood to mean fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
  • fatty acids (Fatac) can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms.
  • isostearic acids such as the commercial products Emersol® 871 and Emersol® 875
  • isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor® IP 95
  • Other typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures.
  • Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • the amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean.
  • the amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.
  • fatty alcohols fatal
  • Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character.
  • the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction.
  • those fatty alcohol cuts which represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Such substances are known, for example, under the names Stenol®, e.g. Stenol® 1618 or Lanette®, e.g. Lanette® O or Lorol®, e.g. Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, e.g.
  • Crodacol® CS Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16 or Isocarb® 24 to be purchased.
  • wool wax alcohols such as are commercially available under the names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® or Fluilan®, can also be used.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.
  • waxes As natural or synthetic waxes (Fatwax), solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as, for example, apple wax or citrus wax, can be used according to the invention.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.
  • the total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.
  • compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors.
  • Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a .:
  • Vitamin B1 (thiamine)
  • Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)
  • Vitamin B3 the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin Bs pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone.
  • Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group.
  • Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols.
  • Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives.
  • Pantothenic acid is preferably used as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present invention.
  • Vitamin ⁇ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
  • the stated compounds of the vitamin B type are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.
  • Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • a particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are the betaines mentioned below: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, betalain, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and those described in the literature Betaine designated compound ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ trimethylglycine.
  • Carnitine, histidine, choline and betaine are preferably used.
  • the active ingredient used is L-carnitine tartrate.
  • compositions according to the invention contain biochinones.
  • suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s).
  • the preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:
  • compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges.
  • inventively preferred cosmetic agents characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).
  • Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline. In hair cosmetic preparations, caffeine is most preferred.
  • the cosmetic agent contains ectoine ((S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid.
  • agents which, based on their weight, are from 0.00001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight and in particular from 0.001 to 3% by weight, of the active compounds from Group formed by carnitine, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, a vitamin B series, a purine and its derivatives or physiologically acceptable salts.
  • a particularly preferred care additive in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention is taurine.
  • Taurine is understood to mean exclusively 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and a derivative to the explicitly mentioned derivatives of taurine.
  • Derivatives of taurine include N-monomethyltaurine, ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethyltaurine, tauryllysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithine, lysyl taurine and ornithyl taurine.
  • agents according to the invention which - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt .-% and In particular, 0.001 to 1, 0 wt .-% taurine and / or a derivative of taurine included.
  • the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can be formulated in a particularly natural and yet very effective way in their care performance.
  • customary preservatives can be dispensed with.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.
  • the agents according to the invention may contain at least one proteolipid of the formula (P-1)
  • R ' is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 24 carbon atoms
  • R means a protein, a peptide or a protein hydrolyzate
  • X is -C (O) O- or -N + (R m 2) R lv - or -N (R '") R IV - or -C (O) -N (R V ) R VI -,
  • the proteolipids are used in the agents according to the invention
  • Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention contain, by weight, 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.02 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight and in particular 0, 15 to 0.5% by weight of proteolipid (s)
  • the radical R " in formula (P1) represents a peptide or a protein or a protein hydrolyzate.
  • Preferred radicals R " are oligopetides which have at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu
  • amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.
  • the parenthetized hydrogen atom of the amino group, as well as the parenthetical group of the acid function means that the groups concerned may be present as such (then an oligopeptide having the relevant number of amino acids as shown (in the above) Formula 3) or that the amino acid sequence is present in an oligopeptide, which also comprises other amino acids - depending on where the other amino acid (s) is / are bound, the parenthetical components of the above formula by the / the other Replaced amino acid residue (s).
  • Oligopeptides in the sense of the present application are acid amide-like linked by peptide bonds condensation products of amino acids comprising at least 3 and a maximum of 25 amino acids
  • the molecular weight of the proteolipid contained in the inventive compositions vary.
  • Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the proteolipid has a molar mass of from 1000 to 30,000 Da, preferably from 1250 to 25,000 Da, more preferably from 1,500 to 20,000 Da and in particular from 2,000 to 15,000 Da.
  • oligopeptides are preferably used, which not only consist of the three glutamic acids, but contain further bound to this sequence amino acids. These additional amino acids are preferably selected from certain amino acids are while certain other agents according to the invention are less preferred. Thus, it is preferred that the radical R "used in the inventive compositions
  • Proteolipids does not contain methionine. It is further preferred if the radical R "of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention contains no cysteine and / or cystine.
  • Proteolipid does not contain aspartic acid and / or asparagine. It is further preferred if the remainder
  • the radical R " contains the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention tyrosine It is further preferred if the radical R " contains the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention leucine. It is further preferred if the radical R ' ' of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention comprises isoleucine.It is further preferred if the radical R '' of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention contains arginine. It is further preferred if the radical R " contains the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention valine.
  • a particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains tyrosine, which is preferably linked via its acid function to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence.
  • Cosmetic agents which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R "has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu, where the amino group is free or protonated and the carboxy groups
  • a further particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains isoleucine, which is preferably linked to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence via its amino function:
  • Cosmetic agents which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the proteolipids of the formula (I ) as the radical R " contained oligopeptide has at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile, wherein the amino group is free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be present freely or deprotonated.
  • Oligopeptides which have both the abovementioned amino acids (tyrosine and isoleucine) are preferred according to the invention.
  • Hair treatment agents according to the invention are particularly preferred in which the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R "has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile, where the amino group is free or protonated and the carboxy- Groups may be free or deprotonated.
  • oligopeptides additionally contain arginine, which is preferably bound to isoleucine.
  • Cosmetic agents which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R "has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg, the amino groups being free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.
  • Still further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain valine, which is preferably bound to the arginine.
  • Further preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R "has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val, the amino groups being free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.
  • Still further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, which is preferably bound to valine.
  • Cosmetic agents which are further preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R "has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu, where the amino groups free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.
  • Particularly preferred oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, which is preferably bound to the tyrosine.
  • Further preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R "has at least one amino acid sequence Leu-Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu, where the amino - Groups are free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.
  • cosmetic agents according to the invention which contain at least one proteolipd of the formula (I) in which R "has at least one amino acid sequence Leu-Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu, where the amino groups free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.
  • the radical R " in formula (P1) may be a peptide or a protein or a protein hydrolyzate, protein hydrolysates being preferred Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures which are obtained by acid, base or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins) According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • the radical R " is selected from keratin or keratin hydrolysates
  • Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one proteolipid of formula (P1) in which R " for keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate is.
  • particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one proteolipd of the formula (I) in which X is -N + (CH 3) 2 -CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2 - and R 'is - (CH 2 ) i7-CH 3 is.
  • preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one proteolipd of the formula (P1) in which X is -C (O) -O- and R 'is - (CH 2) 7 -CH 3.
  • protein hydrolysates in addition to the proteolipids. These enhance the effect of the proteolipids and in turn are amplified in their effects.
  • the protein hydrolyzates have been described above as R "detailed summary are preferred cosmetic composition of the invention which additionally -. Based on its weight - 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 7 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.0 wt .-% protein hydrolyzate (s), preferably keratin hydrolyzate (s) included.
  • Another object of the present invention is a method for the care of keratinic fibers, in which an agent is applied to the fibers and rinsed again after an exposure time, the agent - based on its weight - a) 0 to 5 wt .-% water .
  • Preferred methods according to the invention are characterized in that the agent is applied to moist keratinic fibers.
  • Another object of the present invention is the use of agents - based on their weight - a) 0 to 5% by weight of water,

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Abstract

L'invention concerne des produits de soin de fibres kératiniques contenant 0 à 5 % en poids d'eau, 20 à 60 % en poids d'huile(s) et 40 à 70 % en poids de polyéthylène glycol(s) de la formule (I), dans laquelle n = 6, 7, 8, 9 ou 10. Lesdits produits offrent à l'utilisateur une expérience de traitement plus nette, c'est-à-dire qu'ils renforcent l'effet traitant d'une part, et le soulignent d'autre part par une sensation perceptible par l'utilisateur.
PCT/EP2014/074279 2013-12-10 2014-11-11 Traitement capillaire contenant de l'huile et du polyéthylène glycol WO2015086241A1 (fr)

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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DE102013225372.9A DE102013225372A1 (de) 2013-12-10 2013-12-10 Wärmende Öl-Haarkur

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Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20080260655A1 (en) * 2006-11-14 2008-10-23 Dov Tamarkin Substantially non-aqueous foamable petrolatum based pharmaceutical and cosmetic compositions and their uses
EP2119435A1 (fr) * 2008-05-16 2009-11-18 Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetique Composition emolliente

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US20080260655A1 (en) * 2006-11-14 2008-10-23 Dov Tamarkin Substantially non-aqueous foamable petrolatum based pharmaceutical and cosmetic compositions and their uses
EP2119435A1 (fr) * 2008-05-16 2009-11-18 Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetique Composition emolliente

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