WO2015086230A1 - Lissage des cheveux à l'acide glyoxylique - Google Patents

Lissage des cheveux à l'acide glyoxylique Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2015086230A1
WO2015086230A1 PCT/EP2014/073854 EP2014073854W WO2015086230A1 WO 2015086230 A1 WO2015086230 A1 WO 2015086230A1 EP 2014073854 W EP2014073854 W EP 2014073854W WO 2015086230 A1 WO2015086230 A1 WO 2015086230A1
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Prior art keywords
fibers
polyquaternium
weight
acid
preferred
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PCT/EP2014/073854
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German (de)
English (en)
Inventor
Katharina KRAUSE
Torsten LECHNER
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Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
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Publication of WO2015086230A1 publication Critical patent/WO2015086230A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/04—Preparations for permanent waving or straightening the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair

Definitions

  • the invention relates to the technical field of reshaping keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.
  • the invention relates to an improved process for reshaping keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair.
  • keratin-containing fibers in principle all animal hair, e.g. Wool, Russian hair, angora hair, furs, feathers and products made therefrom or textiles.
  • the invention is preferred in the context of a
  • Hair shaping in particular the smoothing of curly human hair and wigs made therefrom used.
  • a permanent deformation keratin inconveniencer fibers is usually carried out so as to mechanically deform the fiber and determines the deformation by suitable means. Before and / or after this deformation, the fiber is treated with a keratin-reducing preparation. After a rinsing process, the fiber is then in the so-called fixing step with a
  • Oxidizer preparation is treated, rinsed and freed from the forming aids (e.g., winders, papillots) after or during the fusing step.
  • a mercaptan e.g. Ammonium thioglycolate
  • this part of the disulfide bridges of the keratin molecule cleaves to -SH groups, so that there is a softening of keratin fibers.
  • disulfide bridges are knotted in the hair keratin, so that the Keratinge Stahlge is fixed in the predetermined deformation.
  • the frizzy hair is either wound on a large diameter of usually wound more than 15 mm or the hair combed smooth under the action of the keratin-reducing composition.
  • the fiber is also possible to smooth the fiber on a smoothing board. Smoothing boards are usually rectangular boards, for example made of plastic.
  • the fiber is wetted with the keratin-reducing preparation.
  • Monosulfide bridges Depending on the concentration and duration of use of the alkaline reforming agent and protein chains are hydrolytically cleaved.
  • the pH of the alkaline reforming agent is usually in the range of 11-14, preferably 12-13.
  • the known shaping processes especially in the case of smoothing, have the disadvantage that the keratin-containing fiber is charged electrostatically.
  • the treatment with reshaping leads to an increased hydrophilicity of the hair, which complicates the manageability and the grip, the combability and gloss worsened.
  • the object of the invention is therefore to provide a shaping method for keratin-containing fibers, in particular for human hair, which provides a very good and lasting deformation result and at the same time minimizes the electrostatic charge and hydrophilization of the hair, cares for the fiber and protects the structure of the fiber.
  • Forming means before the forming process significantly minimizes the negative consequences of the transformation and in particular minimizes the electrostatic charge and hydrophilization of the hair.
  • the present invention is in a first embodiment, a method for reshaping, in particular for smoothing, keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, in which (i) a reshaping agent containing glyoxylic acid or its hydrate and / or its salts is applied to the keratinic fibers and left there
  • step (i) of the method according to the invention can be carried out directly, i. A few seconds to minutes before the actual transformation treatment, but it can also be maintained longer, if this should be desirable in individual cases.
  • the preferred exposure time in step (ii) is 30 seconds to 15 minutes.
  • the reaction time in step (ii) of the process according to the invention is preferably from 30 seconds to 10 minutes, more preferably from 1 to 5 minutes and in particular from 90 to 240 seconds.
  • the forming agent applied in step (i) is not rinsed off after the exposure time, but remains on the fiber.
  • the fiber can optionally be dried in step (ii), which can be done with longer exposure times of the forming agent by air drying. For shorter
  • the hair can be, for example, terry with a towel or preferably be blown. After completion of a terry step, a noticeable residual moisture remains in the hair.
  • step (iii) the fibers are mechanically deformed in step (iii), which can be done at room temperature or even with the application of heat.
  • the forming agents used in the process according to the invention contain glyoxylic acid or its hydrate and / or their salts.
  • Glyoxylic acid is represented by the formula
  • oxoacetic acid glyoxylic acid, ethanalic acid or oxoethanoic acid and consists of an aldehyde and a carboxy group. It is one of them
  • step (i) a)
  • Forming agent is applied, which, based on its weight, 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.25 to 5 wt .-%, even more preferably 0.5 to Contains 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.55 to 2 wt .-% glyoxylic acid.
  • glyoxylic acid instead of glyoxylic acid or in addition to its hydrate can be used.
  • This hydrate can be obtained by crystallization of glyoxylic acid from aqueous solution and can also be referred to as dihydroxyacetic acid:
  • step (i) a
  • Forming agent is applied, which, based on its weight, 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.25 to 5 wt .-%, even more preferably 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.55 to 2 wt .-% glyoxylic acid hydrate.
  • sodium glyoxylate and potassium glyoxylate have proven useful here.
  • step (i) a conversion agent is applied which, based on its weight, contains 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably 0, 25 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.55 to 2 wt .-% sodium glyoxylate.
  • step (i) a conversion agent is applied which, based on its weight, is more preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight , 25 to 5 wt .-%, even more preferably 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.55 to 2 wt .-% potassium glyoxylate.
  • the reforming agents used in the process according to the invention are preferably
  • step (i) a forming agent is applied, which, based on its weight, is 30 to 95% by weight, preferably 40 to 92.5% by weight, more preferably 50 to 90% by weight, even more preferably 60 to 87.5% by weight and in particular 70 to 85 Wt .-% water.
  • the conversion agents used in the process according to the invention may contain further ingredients, wherein the use of fatty substance (s) and cationic compounds has proven to be particularly suitable.
  • Fat substances are understood to mean fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components.
  • fatty acids can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. These include, for example, the isostearic acids, such as
  • Emersol ® 871 and Emersol ® 875 and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor ® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ® (Cognis) fatty acids.
  • Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid,
  • Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.
  • the amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean.
  • the amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous.
  • fatty alcohols fatal
  • fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural Fatty acids, which can usually be expected from a recovery of the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those
  • Fatty alcohol cuts which are a mixture of different fatty alcohols.
  • Substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®, for example, Lorol ® C8, Lorol C14 ®, Lorol C18 ®, ® Lorol C8-18, HD-Ocenol ®, Crodacol ® such as Crodacol ® CS, Novol ®, Eutanol ® G, Guerbitol ® 16, Guerbitol ® 18, Guerbitol ® 20, Isofol ® 12, Isofol ® 16, Isofol ® 24, Isofol ® 36, Isocarb ® 12, Isocarb ® 16 or lsocarb ® 24 for sale.
  • Stenol ® such as Stenol ® 1618 or Lanette ® such as Lanette ® O or Lorol ®
  • Lorol ® C8 Lorol C8-18
  • wool wax alcohols as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ®, White Swan ®, Coronet ® or Fluilan ® can be used according to the invention.
  • the fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.
  • waxes As natural or synthetic waxes (Fatwax), solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, microwaxes of PE or PP can be used according to the invention.
  • Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.
  • the amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.
  • the total amount of oil and fat components in the forming agents used in the process according to the invention is usually 0.5-75 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.
  • Preferred fatty substances are linear and branched, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols or natural fatty alcohol mixtures having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain such as decanol, octanol, octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol,
  • Myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, Caprinalkohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl, and their Guerbet alcohols and fatty alcohol cuts by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, Erdnu ßöl, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or from their transesterification with corresponding alcohols resulting fatty acid esters are produced and thus a mixture of different triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, Erdnu ßöl, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or from their transesterification with corresponding alcohols resulting fatty acid esters are produced and thus a mixture of different
  • fatty alcohols Represent fatty alcohols.
  • the fatty alcohols are usually used in amounts of 0.01 to 15 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 10 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.3 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total preparation.
  • Monoesters of fatty acids with alcohols having 6 to 24 carbon atoms and triglycerides of natural origin can likewise be used as fatty substances.
  • step (i) a conversion agent is applied which, based on its weight, is 0.15 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.15 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0 , 2 to 4 wt .-%, even more preferably 0.25 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.3 to 1 wt .-% of quaternary ammonium compound (s) from the group of tetraalkylammonium halides and / or
  • radicals R are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or
  • polyquaternium 10 poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium compounds) and / or; vi) quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, and / or
  • polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, in particular Polyquaternium-7 and / or
  • copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate in particular Polyquaternium-1 1 and / or xii) vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers, in particular
  • Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1 -2) are the first group of quaternary
  • radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different.
  • the radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:
  • branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or
  • aryl or alkaryl radical for example phenyl or benzyl
  • the rest - (X - R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times.
  • n 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,
  • -X- may be unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxyl groups.
  • -X- examples include: -CHOH, -CHCH2OH, -CH2CHOH, -COHCHOH,
  • R6 stands for: 1) R6-0-CO-, wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, or
  • R7-CO- wherein R7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units can be ethoxylated,
  • A represents a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below.
  • the anion of all described cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO3 " , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as maleate , Fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.
  • Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ®, Stepantex® ®, Dehyquart® ®, ® and Armocare® Akypoquat ®.
  • Dehyquart ® C-4046, Dehyquart ® L80, Dehyquart ® F-30, Dehyquart ® AU-35, Rewoquat ® WE18, Rewoquat WE38 ® DPG, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131 are examples of these esterquats.
  • Further inventively particularly preferred compounds of formula (Tkat1 -2) include
  • R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.
  • esterquats with tradenames Armocare ® VGH-70 are, as well as Dehyquart ® F-75, Dehyquart ® L80, Stepantex ® VS 90 and Akypoquat ® 131st
  • Tkat2 Another group are quaternary imidazoline compounds.
  • the formula (Tkat2) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.
  • radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms.
  • Hydrocarbon radical The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms.
  • A is an anion as previously described. Examples according to the invention are available, for example, under the INCI I names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. Quaternium-91 is most preferred according to the invention.
  • Cationic surfactants of the formula (Tkat1 -1) are the third group of preferred quaternary
  • R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms optionally with one or more hydroxy groups may be substituted.
  • A is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide and methosulfates.
  • Examples of compounds of formula (Tkatl) are Lauryltrimehtylammoniumchlorid,
  • Behenyltrimethylammonium salts most preferably cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and
  • Behenyltrimethylammonium Outermost preferred processes are characterized in that the conversion agent 0.15 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 1 to 2.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.12 to 2 wt .-%, even more preferred 0.13 to 1% by weight and especially 0.15 to 0.75% by weight
  • Alkyltrimethylammonium chloride in particular cetyltrimethylammonium chloride.
  • the last group of quaternary ammonium compounds are amines and / or cationized amines, in particular amidoamines and / or cationized amidoamines.
  • those used in the process according to the invention contain
  • Forming agent in addition to at least one further of the quaternary ammonium compounds at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas:
  • R 1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and
  • R2, R3 and R4 are each independently
  • A is an anion as previously described and
  • n is an integer between 1 and 10.
  • R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means.
  • amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R 2, R 3 and / or R 4 in the formula (Tkat3) are a radical according to the general formula CH 2 CH 2 OR 5, where R 5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyethyl or hydrogen may have.
  • the preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.
  • the alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition.
  • the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.
  • Examples of such commercial products according to the invention are Witcamine 100 ®, ® Incromine BB, Mackine ® 401 and other Mackine ® grades, Adogen ® S18V, and cationic permanently
  • Aminoamines Rewoquat ® RTM 50, Empigen ® CSC, Swanol ® Lanoquat DES 50, Rewoquat ® UTM 50, Schercoquat® ® BAS ® Lexquat AMG-BEO, or Incroquat ® behenyl HE.
  • All of the abovementioned quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic surfactants and can be used individually or in any desired combinations with each other, amounts of between 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably amounts of 0.01 to 7.5% by weight and very particularly preferably amounts of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.% Are included. The very best results are obtained with amounts of from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular reshaping agent used in the process according to the invention. These amounts are also not exceeded or exceeded when mixtures of cationic surfactants are used.
  • Another preferred group of ingredients of the reshaping agents used in the process according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors.
  • Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.
  • vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2).
  • the ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol.
  • vitamin A component according to the invention for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration.
  • the agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.
  • the vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a .:
  • Vitamin B1 (thiamine)
  • Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)
  • Vitamin B3 Under this designation are often the compounds nicotinic acid and
  • Nicotinic acid amide (niacinamide).
  • Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
  • Vitamin Bs pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone. Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of the invention which can be used according to the invention
  • Panthenols are especially the esters and ethers of panthenol as well as cationically derivatized Panthenole. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives. Pantothenic acid is preferably used as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present invention.
  • Vitamin Be pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal.
  • the said compounds of the vitamin B type in particular vitamin B3, Bs and Be, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
  • Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the conversion agents used in the process according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.
  • Vitamin E tocopherols, especially ⁇ -tocopherol.
  • Tocopherol and its derivatives including in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the conversion agents used in the process according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent , contain.
  • Vitamin F is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.
  • Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed.
  • Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
  • compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.
  • a particularly preferred group of ingredients in the reforming agents used in the process according to the invention are the betaines mentioned below: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, betalaines, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and those described in US Pat Literature referred to as betaine compound ⁇ , ⁇ , ⁇ -trimethylglycine.
  • Carnitine, histidine, choline and betaine are preferably used.
  • the active ingredient used is L-carnitine tartrate.
  • Forming agents used in the process according to the invention biochinones. In the imprinting
  • Forming agents used in accordance with the invention are suitable biochinones one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s) to understand.
  • the preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:
  • Coenzyme Q-10 is most preferred.
  • Preferred conversion agents used in the process according to the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower quantitative ranges.
  • the forming agent used in the process according to the invention is preferably characterized in that it - based on their weight - from 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt. % and in particular 0.01 to 0.1 wt .-% purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).
  • Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline. In hair cosmetic preparations, caffeine is most preferred.
  • Ectoin (S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid used in the process according to the invention.
  • agents which, based on their weight, are from 0.00001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight and in particular from 0.001 to 3% by weight, of the active compounds from Group formed by carnitine, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, a vitamin B series, a purine and its derivatives or physiologically acceptable salts.
  • a particularly preferred care additive in the forming agent used in the process according to the invention is taurine.
  • Taurine is understood to mean exclusively 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and a derivative to the explicitly mentioned derivatives of taurine.
  • Derivatives of taurine include N-monomethyltaurine, ⁇ , ⁇ -dimethyltaurine, tauryllysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithine, lysyl taurine and ornithyl taurine.
  • Particularly preferred conversion agents used in the process according to the invention which - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt. % and in particular 0.001 to 1, 0 wt .-% taurine and / or a derivative of the taurine included.
  • the forming agents used in the process according to the invention can be formulated in a particularly natural and yet very effective manner in their care performance.
  • it may even be otherwise customary Preservatives are dispensed with.
  • the plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and used as solvent in their recovery
  • Extracting agent or extractant mixture Extracting agent or extractant mixture.
  • the conversion agent used in the process according to the invention may contain at least one proteolipid of the formula (P-1)
  • R ' is a linear or branched, saturated or ungesnostittigten hydrocarbon radical having from 1 1 to 24 carbon atoms
  • R means a protein, a peptide or a protein hydrolyzate
  • X is -C (O) O- or -N + (R m 2) R lv - or -N (R '") R IV - or -C (O) -N (R V ) R VI -,
  • the proteolipids are used within certain amounts in the forming agents used in the process according to the invention.
  • Preferred conversion agents used in the process according to the invention contain, based on their weight, from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.15 to 0.5 wt .-% proteolipid (s).
  • R " in formula (P1) represents a peptide or a protein or a protein hydrolyzate
  • X -C (O) O-
  • R " is selected from the group consisting of keratin or keratin hydrolyzate.
  • Preferred radicals R " are oligopetides which have at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu
  • amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.
  • the parenthesized hydrogen atom of the amino group as well as the bracketed hydroxy group of the acid function means that the respective groups may be present as such (then an oligopeptide with the relevant number of amino acids as shown (in US Pat above formula 3) or that the amino acid sequence is present in an oligopeptide which also comprises further amino acids - depending on where the other amino acid (s) is / are bound, the parenthetical components of the above formula by the / replaced another amino acid residue (s).
  • Oligopeptides in the sense of the present application are acid amide-like linked by peptide bonds condensation products of amino acids comprising at least 3 and a maximum of 25 amino acids
  • the molecular weight of the proteolipide contained in the inventive agents vary .
  • Forming agents preferably used in the process according to the invention are characterized in that the proteolipid has a molecular weight of from 1000 to 30,000 Da, preferably from 1250 to 25,000 Da, more preferably from 1,500 to 20,000 Da and in particular from 2,000 to 15,000 Da.
  • Glutamic acids but have further, bound to this sequence amino acids. These other amino acids are preferably selected from certain amino acids, while certain other representatives are less preferred in the present invention.
  • radical R "of the proteolipids used in the conversion agents used in the process according to the invention contains no methionine It is further preferred if the radical R " of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention contains no cysteine and / or cystine.
  • radical R "of the proteolipids used in the transformants used in the process according to the invention contains no aspartic acid and / or asparagine, and it is further preferred if the radical R " of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention does not contain serine and / or Contains threonine.
  • the radical R " contains the proteolipids used in the transformants used in the process according to the invention tyrosine It is further preferred if the radical R " contains the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention leucine. It is further preferred if the R ' radical of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention contains isoleucine, and it is further preferred if the R ' radical in the im
  • Umformungsmitteln used proteolipids arginine. It is further preferred if the radical R " contains the proteolipid valine used in the conversion agents used in the process according to the invention.
  • radicals R " which are particularly preferred oligopeptides or amino acid sequences contained in the preferred oligopeptides are described below:
  • a particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains tyrosine, which is preferably linked via its acid function to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence.
  • Preferred reshaping agents used in the process according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R "has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu
  • amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.
  • Another particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains isoleucine, which is preferably linked to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence via its amino function.
  • Preferred reshaping agents used in the process according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R "has at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile
  • amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.
  • Oligopeptides which have both the abovementioned amino acids (tyrosine and isoleucine) are preferred according to the invention. Preference is given to using in the process according to the invention Forming agents in which in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R " contained
  • Oligopeptide at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile
  • amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.
  • oligopeptides additionally contain arginine, which is preferably bound to isoleucine.
  • Preferred transforming agents used in the process according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the radical R " contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I)
  • Oligopeptide at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg
  • amino groups may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.
  • oligopeptides additionally contain valine, which is preferably bound to the arginine.
  • Preferred reshaping agents used in the process according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R "has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val
  • amino groups can be free or protonated and the carboxy groups can be free or deprotonated.
  • oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, which is preferably bound to valine.
  • Preferred transformants used in the process according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R "has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu
  • amino groups can be free or protonated and the carboxy groups can be free or deprotonated.
  • oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, which is preferably bound to the tyrosine.
  • Preferred reshaping agents used in the process according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R "has at least one amino acid sequence Leu-Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu
  • amino groups can be free or protonated and the carboxy groups can be free or deprotonated.
  • Forming agents which contain at least one proteolipd of the formula (I) in which R "has at least one amino acid sequence Leu-Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu
  • amino groups can be free or protonated and the carboxy groups can be free or deprotonated.
  • the radical R " in formula (P1) may be a peptide or a protein or a protein hydrolyzate, protein hydrolysates being preferred
  • Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures which are obtained by acid, base or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins)
  • protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.
  • Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ® (Cognis), Promois® ® (Interorgana) Collapuron ® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ® (Croda) sold.
  • Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates.
  • Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ® (Cognis), diamine ® (Diamalt) ® (Inolex) and Crotein ® (Croda) available.
  • the radical R " is selected from keratin or keratin hydrolysates
  • Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one proteolipid of formula (P1) in which R " for keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate is.
  • particularly preferred conversion agents used in the process according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one proteolipd of the formula (I) in which X is --N + (CH 3 ) 2 - CH 2 --CH (OH) --CH 2 - and R 'is - (CH 2 ) i 7 -CH 3 is.
  • reshaping agent characterized in that they contain at least one proteolipd of the formula (P1) in which X is -C (O) -O- and R 'is - (CH 2 ) i 7-CH3.
  • protein hydrolysates in addition to the proteolipids. These enhance the effect of the proteolipids and in turn are amplified in their effects.
  • the protein hydrolyzates have been described above as R "detailed summary are preferred conversion agents used in the inventive method, in addition to -. Based on its weight - 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 7 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.25 to 2.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 2.0% by weight
  • the fibers are not rinsed, ie
  • Forming agent remains in the deformation on the fibers.
  • the fibers can be wet formed, but it is also possible to dry the fibers after the application of the forming agent and before the forming process.
  • Preferred processes according to the invention are characterized in that the fibers are dried in step (ii).
  • the drying can be done by means of a towel by terrying or preferably by using hot air, in particular by blow drying.
  • step (iii) of the process according to the invention ⁇ the fibers are deformed ⁇ step (iii) of the process according to the invention ⁇ .
  • the deformation in step (iii) may be assisted by heat, for example by heated hair curlers or, most preferably, by the use of a smoothing iron.
  • Processes according to the invention in which the fibers in step (iii) are subjected to a heat treatment at a temperature of 50 ° C to 350 ° C (preferably 80 ° C to 280 ° C, more preferably 100 ° C to 250 ° C, more preferably 140 ° C to 220 ° C) are preferred according to the invention.
  • Another object of the present invention is the use of glyoxylic acid or its hydrate and / or their salts for protecting keratin fibers, in particular human hair, in forming processes.
  • Another object of the present invention is the use of glyoxylic acid or its hydrate and / or their salts to prevent the electrostatic charge and the

Abstract

L'invention concerne un procédé de mise en forme, en particulier de lissage, de fibres contenant de la kératine, en particulier des cheveux humains, dans lequel on applique (i) et on laisse un agent de mise en forme, contenant de l'acide glyoxylique ou l'hydrate et/ou des sels de celui-ci, sur les fibres kératiniques, (ii) les fibres ne sont pas rincés, et éventuellement séché, au bout d'un certain temps d'exposition, (iii) on déforme les fibres mécaniquement sous l'action de la chaleur, ce qui minimise considérablement les conséquences négatives de la mise en forme et réduit en particulier la charge électrostatique et l'hydrophilisation des cheveux.
PCT/EP2014/073854 2013-12-13 2014-11-06 Lissage des cheveux à l'acide glyoxylique WO2015086230A1 (fr)

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DE102013225915.8A DE102013225915A1 (de) 2013-12-13 2013-12-13 Haarglättung mit Glyoxylsäure

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EP3290018B1 (fr) * 2016-08-31 2019-12-25 Kao Corporation Methode de traitement capillaire
EP3323408A1 (fr) * 2016-11-22 2018-05-23 Unilever PLC Méthode pour former des cheveux

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WO2011104282A2 (fr) * 2010-02-24 2011-09-01 Alderan S.A.S. Di D'ottavi Adele & C. Procédé de lissage semi-permanent de cheveux frisés, ondulés ou bouclés
WO2012010351A2 (fr) * 2010-07-20 2012-01-26 Alderan S.A.S. Di D'ottavi Adele & C. Procédé de lissage semi-permanent de cheveux frisés, crépus ou ondulés
WO2014016658A1 (fr) * 2012-07-25 2014-01-30 D Ottavi Adele Modification semi-permanente de la structure des fibres de kératine des cheveux par le biais de l'utilisation combinée de chaleur et de mélanges de substances organiques
WO2014068101A2 (fr) * 2012-11-05 2014-05-08 Kao Corporation Procédé de décoloration et de lissage des cheveux
WO2014068102A2 (fr) * 2012-11-05 2014-05-08 Kao Corporation Procédé de coloration et de lissage des cheveux
WO2014072645A1 (fr) * 2012-11-09 2014-05-15 L'oreal Procede de lissage des cheveux a partir d'une composition contenant de l'acide glyoxylique et/ou un de ses derives
WO2014072644A1 (fr) * 2012-11-09 2014-05-15 L'oreal Composition comprenant un compose dicarbonyle et procede de lissage des cheveux a partir de cette composition
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WO2012010351A2 (fr) * 2010-07-20 2012-01-26 Alderan S.A.S. Di D'ottavi Adele & C. Procédé de lissage semi-permanent de cheveux frisés, crépus ou ondulés
WO2014016658A1 (fr) * 2012-07-25 2014-01-30 D Ottavi Adele Modification semi-permanente de la structure des fibres de kératine des cheveux par le biais de l'utilisation combinée de chaleur et de mélanges de substances organiques
WO2014068101A2 (fr) * 2012-11-05 2014-05-08 Kao Corporation Procédé de décoloration et de lissage des cheveux
WO2014068102A2 (fr) * 2012-11-05 2014-05-08 Kao Corporation Procédé de coloration et de lissage des cheveux
WO2014072645A1 (fr) * 2012-11-09 2014-05-15 L'oreal Procede de lissage des cheveux a partir d'une composition contenant de l'acide glyoxylique et/ou un de ses derives
WO2014072644A1 (fr) * 2012-11-09 2014-05-15 L'oreal Composition comprenant un compose dicarbonyle et procede de lissage des cheveux a partir de cette composition
WO2014131470A1 (fr) * 2013-02-28 2014-09-04 Kao Corporation Composition et procédé pour le lissage semi-permanent des cheveux

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