WO2015086241A1

WO2015086241A1 - Hair conditioner containing oil and polyethylene glycol

Info

Publication number: WO2015086241A1
Application number: PCT/EP2014/074279
Authority: WO
Inventors: Marlene Battermann; Thomas Hippe
Original assignee: Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa
Priority date: 2013-12-10
Filing date: 2014-11-11
Publication date: 2015-06-18
Also published as: DE102013225372A1

Abstract

Care products for keratinous fibres, containing 0 to 5 wt.% water, 20 to 60 wt.% oil(s) and 40 to 70 wt.% polyethylene glycol(s) of formula (I) where n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10, provide an even more distinctive care experience for the user, i.e. they enhance the care effects and underscore the effects with a feeling that is perceptible to the user.

Description

HAARKUR CONTAINING OIL AND POLYETHYLENE GLYCOL

The invention relates to agents for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human hair, which contains in a cosmetic carrier at least one oil and a PEG compound.

Care products for keratinic fibers often have the disadvantage that they complain the hair and thus reduce its fullness. This problem occurs especially with products that are left in the hair (so-called leave-on products). In contrast, products that are rinsed out shortly after use (so-called rinse-off products) often do not have sufficient care potential. It is an object of the present invention to provide hair treatment compositions which sustain the hair sustainably, improve combability, shine and feel without complaining about the hairstyle. Ideally, this should be achieved with products that can be rinsed off the hair in a relatively short time after their application, as well as remain on the hair.

Another object of the present invention was to make the care experience even more apparent to the consumer, i. on the one hand to reinforce the care effects and on the other hand to underline a perceptible for the consumer feeling.

In an unpredictable manner has now been found that certain oil-based hair care products can be enhanced by the use of certain PEG compounds in their care performance and also lead in the application to a slight pleasant warming on the head of the user, what the achieved care effects on the one hand improved and, on the other hand, to be experienced in a unique way.

The present invention relates to compositions for the care of keratinic fibers, containing

a) 0 to 5% by weight of water,

b) 20 to 60% by weight 01 (e);

c) 40 to 70% by weight of polyethylene glycol (s) of the formula (I)

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

The compositions according to the invention are formulated as water-poor or anhydrous, i. they contain a maximum of 5 wt .-% of free water.

The term "low in water" or "anhydrous" is understood according to the invention as meaning that the compositions contain from 0 to a maximum of 5% by weight, preferably from 0 to a maximum of 2% by weight, of free water, based on the total composition Crystal water, water of hydration or similar molecularly bound water, which may be contained in the ingredients used, does not constitute free water for the purposes of the present application.

As an essential ingredient, the compositions according to the invention contain from 20 to 60% by weight of oil (s).

Among the oils, silicone oils in particular have proven to be suitable. Cyclic silicone oils like

Octamethyltetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane are very suitable, with decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (also referred to simply as cyclopentasiloxane) being a particularly suitable oil for the use according to the invention. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 5 to 50% by weight

Wt .-%, preferably 7.5 to 47.5 wt .-%, more preferably 10 to 45 wt .-%, particularly preferably

12.5 to 42.5 wt .-% and in particular 15 to 40 wt .-% cyclopentasiloxane.

With particular preference also linear silicones can be used as oil, wherein linear

Dimethicones are represented by the following structural formula (Sil):

(SiR ¹ ₃ ) - O - (SiR ² 2 - O -) x - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (Sil)

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (Sil .1):

The radicals R and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 daltons. The viscosities are between 50 and 10,000,000 mm 2 / s measured at 25 ° C using a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 100 and 350 mm 2 / s. By way of example, reference may be made here to the product "Dow Corning 200 having a viscosity of 50 to 350 mm 2 / s.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one silicone of the formula (Sil .2)

(CH3) 3 Si- [0-Si (CH3) 2] x-0-Si (CH ₃₎ 3 (Sil .2)

in which x is a number from 0 to 100, preferably from 0 to 50, more preferably from 0 to 20 and in particular 0 to 10. The dimethicones (Sil) are preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of 5 to 50% by weight, preferably 7.5 to 47.5% by weight, more preferably 10 to 45% by weight, particularly preferably 12.5 to 42.5 wt .-% and in particular 15 to 40 wt .-% based on the total composition.

Particularly preferred agents contain short-chain silicones of the formula (Sil .2) in which x is 1, 2, 3, 4 or 5. Extremely preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 5 to 50% by weight, preferably 7.5 to 47.5% by weight, more preferably 10 to 45% by weight, more preferably 12% by weight , 5 to 42.5 wt .-% and in particular 15 to 40 wt .-% octamethyltrisiloxane.

Finally, dimethiconols (Si8) can be used as oils. The dimethiconols may be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (Si8-I):

(SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) - O - (SiR ² 2 - O -) _x - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) (Si 8 - I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (Si8 - II):

The radicals R and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethiconols are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 350 mm 2 / s measured at 25 ° C using a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970.

Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 5 to 50% by weight, preferably 7.5 to 47.5% by weight, more preferably 10 to 45% by weight, more preferably 12% by weight , 5 to 42.5 wt .-% and in particular 15 to 40 wt .-% dimethiconol (s) included.

Oils in the context of the present invention are, for example, also vegetable oils such as acai oil, algae oil, amaranth seed oil, aniseed oil, annatto oil, apricot kernel oil, apple seed oil, argan oil, avellana oil, avocado oil, babacu oil, babassu oil, baobab oil, cottonseed oil, bitter almond oil, borage seed oil, Broccoli seed oil, camelina oil, cashew oil, cupuacu oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, fish oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, rose hip kernel oil, hemp seed oil, hazelnut oil, raspberry seed oil, elderflower seed oil, honeydew melon oil, jatropha oil, currant seed oil, St. John's wort oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, cocoa oil, coffee oil, camellia oil, Cherry oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, salmon oil, linseed oil, linseed oil, camelina oil, laurel oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, mango butter, passion fruit oil, marula oil, melon oil, poppy seed oil, evening primrose oil, mink oil, olive oil, olive kernel oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, papaya seed oil, patchouli oil, peach kernel oil, Plum kernel oil, pecan nut oil, perilla oil, pistachio oil, cranberry seed oil, rambutan oil, rapeseed oil, rice germ oil, rice oil, castor oil, sacha inchi oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, black cumin oil, mustard oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, squalone oil, sweet almond oil, tea tree oil, thyme l, grape seed oil, tung oil, to count Ucuubabutter, Vassouraöl, walnut, watermelon oil, wheat germ oil, meadowfoam seed oil, wild rose oil, Yakhaaröl, ylang ylang oil-or civet. This list is to be understood as an example. Any natural oil, in particular any oil which is known as food or from the field of natural medicine, may be part of the composition according to the invention. Furthermore, according to the invention, a mixture of any of the aforementioned oils can also be used. Preferred oils according to the invention are selected from apricot kernel oil, apple seed oil, argan oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, bitter almond oil, cashew oil, cupuacum oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, rose hip kernel oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, raspberry seed oil, elderflower seed oil, honeydew melon oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, cocoa oil, Coffee oil, camellia oil, cherry oil, coconut oil, pumpkin seed oil, laurel oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, mango butter, passion fruit oil, marula oil, melon oil, poppy seed oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, olive kernel oil, papaya seed oil, patchouli oil, peach kernel oil, plum kernel oil, pecan nut oil, perilla oil, pistachio nut oil, cranberry seed oil, Rice germ oil, rice oil, castor oil, sacha inchi oil, sea buckthorn fruit oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, black cumin oil, mustard oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, squalene oil, sweet almond oil, tea tree oil, grapeseed oil, ucuuba butter, walnut oil, watermelon oil, wheat enkeimöl, meadowfoam seed oil, wild rose oil and the liquid components of coconut oil. Particularly preferred oils are selected from apricot kernel oil, argan oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, bitter almond oil, cashew oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, rose hip kernel oil, hazelnut oil, raspberry seed oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cherry oil, coconut oil, laurel oil, macadamia nut oil, almond oil, mango butter, passion fruit oil, marula oil, Evening primrose oil, olive oil, olive kernel oil, patchouli oil, peach kernel oil, plum kernel oil, pecan nut oil, pistachio nut oil, sacha inchi oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, sweet almond oil, tea tree oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, wild rose oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil and mixtures thereof.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.125 to 7.5% by weight, more preferably from 0.15 to 5% by weight. %, more preferably 0.175 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 2 wt .-% natural oil (s) included.

Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.

Likewise, liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl -n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl-n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The commercially available compounds 1, 3-di (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S) and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be suitable.

Finally, ester oils are also suitable oils according to the invention. Ester oils are the esters of C6-C30 fatty acids with C2-C30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and its technical mixtures. Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, Gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).

Another group of suitable oils according to the invention are dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and diisotridecyl acelate and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate , Propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate),

Propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate,

Neopentylglycol. Finally according to the invention are also suitable symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example glycerol or Dicaprylyicarbonat (Cetiol ^® CC).

The last group according to the invention suitable oils are mono, - di- and trifatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol such as Monomuls 90-018 ^®, ^® Monomuls 90-L12 or Cutina ^® MD.

The oils are preferably selected from the vegetable oils and the ester oils and mixtures thereof.

As a further essential ingredient, the compositions according to the invention contain from 40 to 70% by weight of polyethylene glycol (s) of the formula (I)

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10

These compounds PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9 and PEG-10 lead in the compositions according to the invention in the application to a slight heat effect, which leads to improved perception of product performance and enhances the care effects of the compositions of the invention. Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain - based on their weight - 42.5 to 67.5 wt .-%, preferably 45 to 65 wt .-%, more preferably 47.5 to 62.5 wt .-% and in particular 50 to 60 wt .-% polyethylene glycol (s) of the formula (I).

Very particularly preferred compositions comprise from 42.5 to 67.5% by weight, preferably from 45 to 65% by weight, more preferably from 47.5 to 62.5% by weight and in particular from 50 to 60% by weight, of PEG 7, PEG-8, PEG-9 or mixtures of two or all three of these three compounds

Extremely preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, based on their weight, 42.5 to 67.5% by weight, preferably 45 to 65% by weight, more preferably 47.5 to 62.5% by weight. and in particular 50 to 60 wt .-% PEG-8 (n = 8 in the formula (I)).

The compositions of the invention may further contain other ingredients, e.g. effect further care effects or improve applicability.

Preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain 0.15 to 7.5% by weight, preferably 0.15 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.2 to 4% by weight, even more preferably 0.25 to 3 wt .-% and in particular 0.3 to 1 wt .-% of quaternary ammonium compound (s) from the group

') the tetraalkylammonium halides and / or

ii) the esterquats and / or ii) the quaternary imidazolines of the formula (Tkat2)

in which the radicals R are each independently a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms and A is a physiologically acceptable anion, and / or

iv) the amines and / or cationized amines and / or

v) poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium compounds) and / or; vi) quaternized cellulose derivatives, in particular Polyquaternium 10, Polyquaternium-24, Polyquaternium-27, Polyquaternium-67, Polyquaternium-72, and / or

vii) cationic alkyl polyglycosides and / or

viii) cationised honey and / or

ix) cationic guar derivatives and / or

x) polymeric dimethyldiallylammonium salts and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid, in particular Polyquaternium-7 and / or

xi) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, in particular Polyquaternium-11 and / or xii) vinylpyrrolidone-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid copolymers, in particular Polyquaternium-16 and / or

xiii) quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and / or

xiv) Polyquaternium-74,

xv) cationic alkyl oligoglucosides and / or

xvi) Polyquaternium-71

as well as their mixtures.

Esterquats according to the formula (Tkat1 -2) are the first group of quaternary

Ammonium compounds. R2

L

R1 N-X-R4

I

R3

(Tkat1-2)

Here, the radicals R1, R2 and R3 are each independently and may be the same or different. The radicals R1, R2 and R3 mean:

a branched or unbranched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or

a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or a cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxyl group, or

an aryl or alkaryl radical, for example phenyl or benzyl,

the rest (- X - R4), with the proviso that at most 2 of the radicals R1, R2 or R3 for this

Rest can stand:

The rest - (X - R4) is contained at least 1 to 3 times.

Where X stands for:

1) - (CH 2) n - with n = 1 to 20, preferably n = 1 to 10 and particularly preferably n = 1 - 5, or

2) - (CH 2 -CHR 5 -O) n - where n = 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 100, particularly preferably 1 to 50, and particularly preferably 1 to 20 with R 5 in the meaning of hydrogen, methyl or ethyl,

3) a hydroxyalkyl group of one to four carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, and which contains at least one and at most 3 hydroxy groups. Examples of -X- are: -CHOH, -CHCH2OH, -CH2CHOH, -COHCHOH, -CHOHCOH, -CHCHOHCH3, -CH2COHCH3, -CH2CHOHCH2-, -C (CH ₂ OH) 2, -CH2CHOHCH2OH, -CH2CH2CHOH, -CH2COHCH3 and Hydroxybutylreste, wherein the bond of -X- to R4 emanates from the free valency of the carbon atom in question

and R4 stands for:

1) R6-0-CO-, wherein R6 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and which optionally further with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units may be ethoxylated, or

2) R 7 -CO-, wherein R 7 is a saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched or cyclic saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may contain at least one hydroxy group, and optionally furthermore can be ethoxylated with 1 to 100 ethylene oxide units and / or 1 to 100 propylene oxide units,

and A represents a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion and is defined here as representative of all structures also described below. The anion of all described cationic compounds is selected from the halide ions, fluoride, chloride, bromide, iodide, sulfates of the general formula RSO3 ^" , wherein R has the meaning of saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, or anionic radicals of organic acids such as maleate , Fumarate, oxalate, tartrate, citrate, lactate or acetate.

Such products are marketed under the trademarks Rewoquat ^®, Stepantex® ^®, Dehyquart® ^®, ^® and Armocare® Akypoquat ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80, Dehyquart ^® F-30, Dehyquart ^® AU-35, Rewoquat ^® WE18, Rewoquat ^® WE38 DPG, Stepantex ^® VS 90 and Akypoquat ^® 131 are examples of these esterquats. Further inventively particularly preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat1-2) include

Betaine esters.

R8 corresponds in its meaning R7.

Particularly preferred are the esterquats with tradenames Armocare ^® VGH-70 are, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® L80, Stepantex ^® VS 90 and Akypoquat ^® 131st

Another group are quaternary imidazoline compounds. The formula (Tkat2) shown below shows the structure of these compounds.

The radicals R independently of one another each represent a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of the formula (Tkat2) contain for R the same hydrocarbon radical. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 to 21 carbon atoms. A is an anion as previously described. Particular examples according to the invention are, for example available under the INCII names Quaternium-27, Quaternium-72, Quaternium-83 and Quaternium-91. Quaternium-91 is most preferred according to the invention.

Cationic surfactants of formula (Tkat1-1) are the third group of preferred quaternary ammonium compounds.

(Tkatl)

In the formula (Tkatl), R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 each independently represent hydrogen, a methyl group, a phenyl group, a benzyl group, a saturated, branched or unbranched alkyl group having a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms optionally with one or more hydroxy groups may be substituted. A is a physiologically acceptable anion, for example halides such as chloride or bromide and methosulfates.

Examples of compounds of the formula (Tkat1) are lauryltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium bromide, cetyltrimethylammonium methosulfate, dicetyldimethylammonium chloride, tricetylmethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium methosulfate. Particular preference is given to compounds having at least one cetyl or behenyl radical in the molecule. Most preferred are cetyltrimethylammonium and behenyltrimethylammonium salts, most preferably cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and behenyltrimethylammonium chloride.

Extremely preferred cosmetic compositions are characterized in that they contain 0.15 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.11 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.12 to 2% by weight, even more preferably 0, 13 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.15 to 0.75 wt .-% alkyltrimethylammonium chloride (s), in particular cetyltrimethylammonium chloride contain.

The last group of quaternary ammonium compounds are amines and / or cationized amines, in particular amidoamines and / or cationized amidoamines. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the agents according to the invention comprise, in addition to at least one other of the quaternary ammonium compounds, at least one amine and / or cationized amine, in particular an amidoamine and / or a cationized amidoamine having the following structural formulas:

R1 - NH - (CH ₂₎ n - N ⁺ R ² R ³ R ⁴ A (Tkat3) wherein R 1 is an acyl or alkyl radical having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, which may be branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated, and wherein the acyl radical and / or the alkyl radical may contain at least one OH group, and

R2, R3 and R4 are each independently

1) hydrogen or

2) an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 C atoms, which may be identical or different, saturated or unsaturated, and

3) a branched or unbranched hydroxyalkyl group having one to four carbon atoms having at least one and at most three hydroxy groups, for example -CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CHOHCHOH, -CH ₂ CHOHCH 3, -CH (CH ₂ OH) 2, -COH (CH ₂ OH) ₂ , -CH 2 CHOHCH 2 OH, -CH 2 CH 2 CH 2 OH and hydroxybutyl radicals, and

A is an anion as previously described and

n is an integer between 1 and 10.

Preference is given to a composition in which the amine and / or the quaternized amine according to general formulas (Tkat3) is an amidoamine and / or a quaternized amidoamine, in which R1 is a branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 30 C atoms, which may contain at least one OH group means. Preference is given here to a fatty acid radical of oils and waxes, in particular of natural oils and waxes. Examples of these include lanolin, bees or candellila waxes.

Also preferred are those amidoamines and / or quaternized amidoamines in which R2, R3 and / or R4 in the formula (Tkat3) are a radical according to the general formula CH2CH2OR5, wherein R5 is the meaning of alkyl radicals having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, hydroxyethyl or hydrogen may have. The preferred size of n in the general formula (Tkat8) is an integer between 2 and 5.

The alkylamidoamines can both be present as such and converted by protonation in a correspondingly acidic solution into a quaternary compound in the composition. According to the invention, the cationic alkylamidoamines are preferred.

Examples of such inventive commercial products are Witcamine ^® 100, Incromine ^® BB, Mackine ^® 401 and other Mackine ^® grades, Adogen ^® S18V, and as a permanent cationic aminoamines: Rewoquat ^® RTM 50, Empigen ^® CSC, Swanol ^® Lanoquat DES-50, Rewoquat ^® UTM 50, Schercoquat® ^® BAS ^® Lexquat AMG-BEO, or Incroquat ^® behenyl HE.

All of the abovementioned quaternary ammonium compounds are cationic surfactants and can be used individually or in any desired combinations with each other, amounts of between 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably amounts of 0.01 to 7.5% by weight and very particularly preferably amounts of 0.1 to 5.0 wt.% Are included. The very best results are in amounts of from 0.1 to 3.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the particular agent receive. These amounts are also not exceeded or exceeded when mixtures of cationic surfactants are used.

In particular, it has been found to be preferred for the fineness of the spray pattern of sprayable preparations if the compositions according to the invention additionally contain a pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid and / or a derivative thereof. Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain 0.01 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.025 to 2.5 wt.%, More preferably 0.05 to 2 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.075 to 1, 5 wt .-%, still more preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 0.5 wt .-% of a Pyrrolidinoncarbonsäure and / or a Pyrrolidinoncarbonsäurederivates of formula (I)

in which at least one of the substituents R to R ³ is a group -COOR ⁴ , in which R ^{4 is} hydrogen, an alkali metal ion, an alkaline earth metal ion or an ammonium ion ⁺ NHR ⁵ R ⁶ R ⁷ , in which R ⁵ to R ⁷ independently of one another hydrogen, alkyl groups with 1 to 22 C atoms, hydroxyalkyl groups with 1 to 4 C atoms, alkenyl groups with 2 to 22 C atoms, acyl groups with 2 to 22 C atoms or optionally substituted aromatic groups with 6 to 10 C atoms Are atoms, and the remaining substituents R to R ^{3 are} hydrogen or alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Very particular preference is given here to 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and / or its sodium salt. Accordingly, cosmetic compositions containing 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.025 to 2.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05 to 2 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.075 to 1, 5 wt .-% , even more preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 0.5 wt .-% 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and / or their sodium salt, more preferably.

Of course, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention also contain, in addition to the combination of active substances according to the invention, further constituents customary in cosmetic compositions. The selection of these ingredients generally depends on the intended use of the hair treatment agents.

With particular preference the compositions according to the invention contain fatty substances (fat) as further active ingredient. Fat substances (fat) are understood to mean fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes, which can be in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion, and natural and synthetic cosmetic oil components. As fatty acids (Fatac) can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms. Preference is given to fatty acids having 10 to 22 carbon atoms. These include, for example, the isostearic acids, such as the commercial products Emersol® 871 and Emersol® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor® IP 95, as well as all other fatty acids sold under the trade names Edenor® (Cognis). Other typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The amount used is 0.1 - 15 wt.%, Based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.5-10% by weight, with amounts of 1-5% by weight being particularly advantageous. As fatty alcohols (fatal) it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with Ce - C30, preferably C10 - C22 and very particularly preferably C12 - C22 carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are known, for example, under the names Stenol®, e.g. Stenol® 1618 or Lanette®, e.g. Lanette® O or Lorol®, e.g. Lorol® C8, Lorol® C14, Lorol® C18, Lorol® C8-18, HD-Ocenol®, Crodacol®, e.g. Crodacol® CS, Novol®, Eutanol® G, Guerbitol® 16, Guerbitol® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol® 12, Isofol® 16, Isofol® 24, Isofol® 36, Isocarb® 12, Isocarb® 16 or Isocarb® 24 to be purchased. Of course, according to the invention, wool wax alcohols, such as are commercially available under the names Corona®, White Swan®, Coronet® or Fluilan®, can also be used. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 20% by weight.

As natural or synthetic waxes (Fatwax), solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, beeswaxes, candelilla waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as, for example, apple wax or citrus wax, can be used according to the invention. Microwaxes made of PE or PP. Such waxes are available, for example, from Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The amount used is 0.1-50 wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1 to 20 wt.% And particularly preferably 0.1 to 15 wt.% Based on the total agent.

The total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions according to the invention is usually 0.5-75% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35 wt .-% are preferred according to the invention.

Another preferred group of ingredients of the compositions according to the invention with the active ingredient complex according to the invention are vitamins, provitamins or vitamin precursors.

Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred, which are assigned to the groups A, B, C, E, F and H.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin Ai) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A2). The ß-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include u. a .:

Vitamin B1 (thiamine)

Vitamin B2 (riboflavin)

Vitamin B3. Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin Bs (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, panthenol triacetate, panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate, as well as cationic panthenol derivatives. Pantothenic acid is preferably used as a derivative in the form of the more stable calcium salts and sodium salts (Ca-pantothenate, Na-pantothenate) in the present invention.

Vitamin Ββ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

The stated compounds of the vitamin B type, in particular vitamin B3, Bs and ββ, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred. Vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is used in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, which include in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate, are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total agent.

Vitamin F. The term "vitamin F" is usually understood as meaning essential fatty acids, in particular linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid.

Vitamin H. Vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for which, however, the trivial name biotin has meanwhile prevailed. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

The compositions according to the invention preferably contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and H. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well as nicotinic acid amide and biotin are particularly preferred.

A particularly preferred group of ingredients in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention are the betaines mentioned below: carnitine, carnitine tartrate, carnitine magnesium citrate, acetyl carnitine, betalain, 1,1-dimethyl-proline, choline, choline chloride, choline bitartrate, choline dihydrogen citrate and those described in the literature Betaine designated compound Ν, Ν, Ν trimethylglycine.

Carnitine, histidine, choline and betaine are preferably used. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the active ingredient used is L-carnitine tartrate.

In a further embodiment preferred according to the invention, the compositions according to the invention contain biochinones. In the agents according to the invention, suitable biochinones are understood as meaning one or more ubiquinone (s) and / or plastoquinone (s). The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the following formula:

Coenzyme Q-10 is most preferred. Preferred compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivatives in narrower ranges. Here are inventively preferred cosmetic agents characterized in that they - based on their weight - 0.001 to 2.5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0025 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-% and in particular from 0.01 to 0.1% by weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s). Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine, adenine, guanine, uric acid, hypoxanthine, 6-purinethiol, 6-thioguanine, xanthine, caffeine, theobromine or theophylline. In hair cosmetic preparations, caffeine is most preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic agent contains ectoine ((S) -2-methyl-1, 4,5,6-tetrahydro-4-pyrimidinecarboxylic acid.

Particularly preferred according to the invention are agents which, based on their weight, are from 0.00001 to 10.0% by weight, preferably from 0.0001 to 5.0% by weight and in particular from 0.001 to 3% by weight, of the active compounds from Group formed by carnitine, coenzyme Q-10, ectoine, a vitamin B series, a purine and its derivatives or physiologically acceptable salts.

A particularly preferred care additive in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention is taurine. Taurine is understood to mean exclusively 2-aminoethanesulfonic acid and a derivative to the explicitly mentioned derivatives of taurine. Derivatives of taurine include N-monomethyltaurine, Ν, Ν-dimethyltaurine, tauryllysylate, taurine tartrate, taurine ornithine, lysyl taurine and ornithyl taurine.

Particularly preferred are agents according to the invention, which - based on their weight - 0.0001 to 10.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001 to 2.0 wt .-% and In particular, 0.001 to 1, 0 wt .-% taurine and / or a derivative of taurine included.

By using plant extracts as care substances, the hair treatment compositions according to the invention can be formulated in a particularly natural and yet very effective way in their care performance. Optionally, even otherwise customary preservatives can be dispensed with. The extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, witch hazel, hops, henna, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, linden, almond, aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, mango, apricot, lime , Wheat, kiwi, melon, orange, grapefruit, sage, rosemary, birch, mallow, valerian, meadowfoam, quenelle, yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa, ginger root and ayurvedic Plant extracts such as Aegle Marmelos (Bilwa), Cyperus Rotundus (Nagar Motha), Emblica Officinalis (Amalki), Morida Citrifolia (Ashyuka), Tinospora Cordifolia (Guduchi), Santalum album, (Chandana), Crocus Sativus (Kumkuma), Cinnamonum Zeylanicum and Nelumbo nucifera (Kamala), sweet grasses such as wheat, barley, rye, oats, spelled, corn, the various varieties of millet (millet, crab, millet as examples), cane, ryegrass, wi foxtail, smooth oat, Bouquet grass, meadow fescue, whistling grass, bamboo, cotton grass, lamprey grass, Andropogonodeae (Imperata Cylindrica also called grass of flame or cogon grass), buffalo grass, mud grass, canine grasses, love grasses, cymbopogon (lemongrass), oryzeae (rice), zizania (wild rice), marram grass, perennial oat , Honey grasses, quaking grasses, bluegrass, couch grass and Echinacea, especially Echinacea purpurea (L.) Moench, all types of wine as well as Perikarp preferred by Litchie chinensis.

The plant extracts can be used according to the invention both in pure and in diluted form. If they are used in diluted form, they usually contain about 2 to 80 wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent used in their extraction agent or extractant mixture.

It has been shown that certain proteolipids further enhance the effect of the combination according to the invention and further improve the viscosity and its long-term stability and the sprayability of the composition. As a further ingredient, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one proteolipid of the formula (P-1)

R ^' -XR ^" (PI),

in the

R ^'is a straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical having 1 to 24 carbon atoms,

R ^"means a protein, a peptide or a protein hydrolyzate,

X is -C (O) O- or -N ⁺ (R ^m 2) R ^lv - or -N (R '") R ^IV - or -C (O) -N (R ^V ) R ^VI -,

- R ^{m is} - (CH ₂ ) x-CH ₃ where x = 0-22 and

- R ^{IV is} -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - or - (CH ₂ ) x- where x = 0-22;

R ^v and R ^v independently represent -H or - (CH ₂ ) _X -CH 3 with x = 0-22;

with the proviso that R ^"is keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate when X is -C (O) O- Preferably within certain amounts, the proteolipids are used in the agents according to the invention Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention contain, by weight, 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.02 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2.5% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 1% by weight and in particular 0, 15 to 0.5% by weight of proteolipid (s) The radical R ^" in formula (P1) represents a peptide or a protein or a protein hydrolyzate. When X = -C (O) O-, R ^{"is selected} from the group of keratin or keratin hydrolyzate.

Preferred radicals R ^" are oligopetides which have at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu

wherein the amino group may be free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

In this formula as well as in the formulas below, the parenthetized hydrogen atom of the amino group, as well as the parenthetical group of the acid function, means that the groups concerned may be present as such (then an oligopeptide having the relevant number of amino acids as shown (in the above) Formula 3) or that the amino acid sequence is present in an oligopeptide, which also comprises other amino acids - depending on where the other amino acid (s) is / are bound, the parenthetical components of the above formula by the / the other Replaced amino acid residue (s).

Oligopeptides in the sense of the present application are acid amide-like linked by peptide bonds condensation products of amino acids comprising at least 3 and a maximum of 25 amino acids

In hair treatment compositions of the above-described preferred embodiment, the oligopeptide (= the radical R ^" ) comprises 5 to 15 amino acids, preferably 6 to 13 amino acids, particularly preferably 7 to 12 amino acids and in particular 8, 9 or 10 amino acids.

Depending on whether further amino acids are bound to the sequence Glu-Glu-Glu and depending on the nature of these amino acids and depending on the selection of the radicals R ^' and optionally R ^IN and R ^IV , the molecular weight of the proteolipid contained in the inventive compositions vary. Cosmetic agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the proteolipid has a molar mass of from 1000 to 30,000 Da, preferably from 1250 to 25,000 Da, more preferably from 1,500 to 20,000 Da and in particular from 2,000 to 15,000 Da.

As R ^{"oligopeptides} are preferably used, which not only consist of the three glutamic acids, but contain further bound to this sequence amino acids. These additional amino acids are preferably selected from certain amino acids are while certain other agents according to the invention are less preferred. Thus, it is preferred that the radical R ^"used in the inventive compositions

Proteolipids does not contain methionine. It is further preferred if the radical R ^"of the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention contains no cysteine and / or cystine.

It is further preferred if the radical R ^"used in the agents according to the invention

Proteolipid does not contain aspartic acid and / or asparagine. It is further preferred if the remainder

R ^"used in the inventive proteolipids no serine and / or threonine.

In contrast, it is preferred if the radical R ^" contains the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention tyrosine It is further preferred if the radical R ^" contains the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention leucine. It is further preferred if the radical R '^{' of} the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention comprises isoleucine.It is further preferred if the radical R ^{'' of} the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention contains arginine. It is further preferred if the radical R ^" contains the proteolipids used in the agents according to the invention valine.

The radicals R ^{"which are} particularly preferred oligopeptides or amino acid sequences contained in the preferred oligopeptides are described below:

A particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains tyrosine, which is preferably linked via its acid function to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence. Cosmetic agents which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu, where the amino group is free or protonated and the carboxy groups A further particularly preferred oligopeptide additionally contains isoleucine, which is preferably linked to the Glu-Glu-Glu sequence via its amino function: Cosmetic agents which are preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the proteolipids of the formula (I ) as the radical R ^" contained oligopeptide has at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile, wherein the amino group is free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be present freely or deprotonated.

Oligopeptides which have both the abovementioned amino acids (tyrosine and isoleucine) are preferred according to the invention. Hair treatment agents according to the invention are particularly preferred in which the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile, where the amino group is free or protonated and the carboxy- Groups may be free or deprotonated.

Further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain arginine, which is preferably bound to isoleucine. Cosmetic agents which are preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg, the amino groups being free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

Still further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain valine, which is preferably bound to the arginine. Further preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val, the amino groups being free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

Still further preferred oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, which is preferably bound to valine. Cosmetic agents which are further preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu, where the amino groups free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

Particularly preferred oligopeptides additionally contain leucine, which is preferably bound to the tyrosine. Further preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that the oligopeptide contained in the proteolipids of the formula (I) as the radical R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Leu-Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu, where the amino - Groups are free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

In summary, in particular, cosmetic agents according to the invention are preferred which contain at least one proteolipd of the formula (I) in which R ^"has at least one amino acid sequence Leu-Tyr-Glu-Glu-Glu-Ile-Arg-Val-Leu, where the amino groups free or protonated and the carboxy groups may be free or deprotonated.

As already mentioned, R ^{"is selected} from the group keratin or keratin hydrolyzate, if X = -C (O) 0-.

In all other cases, the radical R ^" in formula (P1) may be a peptide or a protein or a protein hydrolyzate, protein hydrolysates being preferred Protein hydrolysates are product mixtures which are obtained by acid, base or enzymatically catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins) According to the invention, protein hydrolysates of both vegetable and animal origin can be used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available. Preferably, irrespective of the choice of X in formula (P1), the radical R ^{"is selected} from keratin or keratin hydrolysates Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one proteolipid of formula (P1) in which R ^" for keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate is.

Particular preference is given to cosmetic agents according to the invention which contain at least one proteolipd of the formula (II) in which R ^{m is} -CH ₃ and R ^{IV is} - (CH ₂ ) x- where x = 0, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 stands. Furthermore, particularly preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one proteolipd of the formula (I) in which X is -N ⁺ (CH 3) 2 -CH 2 -CH (OH) -CH 2 - and R ^'is - (CH ₂ ) i7-CH ₃ is.

Likewise preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one proteolipd of the formula (P1) in which X is -C (O) -O- and R ^'is - (CH 2) 7 -CH 3.

It has proven advantageous to use protein hydrolysates in addition to the proteolipids. These enhance the effect of the proteolipids and in turn are amplified in their effects. The protein hydrolyzates have been described above as R ^"detailed summary are preferred cosmetic composition of the invention which additionally -. Based on its weight - 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 7 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.25 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 2.0 wt .-% protein hydrolyzate (s), preferably keratin hydrolyzate (s) included.

Another object of the present invention is a method for the care of keratinic fibers, in which an agent is applied to the fibers and rinsed again after an exposure time, the agent - based on its weight - a) 0 to 5 wt .-% water .

b) 20 to 60% by weight 01 (e);

c) 40 to 70% by weight of polyethylene glycol (s) of the formula (I)

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 contains.

With respect to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention mutatis mutandis applies to the means of the invention.

Particularly pronounced effects are achieved when the consumer applies the product according to the invention to damp hair. Preferred methods according to the invention are characterized in that the agent is applied to moist keratinic fibers.

Another object of the present invention is the use of agents - based on their weight - a) 0 to 5% by weight of water,

b) 20 to 60% by weight 01 (e);

c) 40 to 70% by weight of polyethylene glycol (s) of the formula (I)

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10

included, to strengthen the hair structure.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the use according to the invention, what has been said about the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

Claims

Patent claim:

1.) Agent for the care of keratinic fibers, containing

a) 0 to 5% by weight of water,

b) 20 to 60% by weight 01 (e);

c) 40 to 70% by weight of polyethylene glycol (s) of the formula (I)

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

2.) Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it - based on its weight - 5 to 50

Wt .-%, preferably 7.5 to 47.5 wt .-%, more preferably 10 to 45 wt .-%, particularly preferably 12.5 to 42.5 wt .-% and in particular 15 to 40 wt .-% Cyclopentasiloxane contains.

3.) Composition according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that it - be based on

Weight - 5 to 50 wt .-%, preferably 7.5 to 47.5 wt .-%, more preferably 10 to 45 wt .-%, particularly preferably 12.5 to 42.5 wt .-% and in particular 15 to Contains 40 wt .-% octamethyltrisiloxane.

4.) Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that it - be based on

Weight - 5 to 50 wt .-%, preferably 7.5 to 47.5 wt .-%, more preferably 10 to 45 wt .-%, particularly preferably 12.5 to 42.5 wt .-% and in particular 15 to 40 wt .-% dimethiconol (s).

5.) Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it - be based on

Weight - 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.125 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.15 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.175 to 4 wt .-% and in particular 0.2 to 2% by weight of natural oil (s).

6.) Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it - be based on

Weight - 42.5 to 67.5 wt .-%, preferably 45 to 65 wt .-%, more preferably 47.5 to 62.5 wt .-% and in particular 50 to 60 wt .-% polyethylene glycol (s) of Contains formula (I).

7.) Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it- related to be

Weight - 42.5 to 67.5 wt .-%, preferably 45 to 65 wt .-%, more preferably 47.5 to 62.5 wt .-% and in particular 50 to 60 wt .-% PEG-7, PEG Contains -8, PEG-9 or mixtures of two or all three of these three compounds.

8.) Composition according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that it - be based on

Weight - 42.5 to 67.5 wt .-%, preferably 45 to 65 wt .-%, more preferably 47.5 to 62.5 wt .-% and in particular 50 to 60 wt .-% PEG-8 (n = 8 in the formula (I)).

9.) Composition according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that it comprises at least one

Proteolipid of formula (Pl) contains R ^' -XR ^" (PI),

in the

R ^"means a protein, a peptide or a protein hydrolyzate,

X is -C (O) O- or -N ⁺ (R ^m 2) R ^lv - or -N (R '") R ^IV - or -C (O) -N (R ^V ) R ^VI -, R ^{m is} - (CH ₂ ) x-CH ₃ where x = 0-22 and

R ^{IV is} -CH ₂ -CH (OH) -CH ₂ - or - (CH ₂ ) x- where x = 0-22;

R ^v and R ^v independently represent -H or - (CH ₂ ) _X -CH 3 with x = 0-22; with the proviso that R ^"is keratin or a keratin hydrolyzate when X is -C (O) O-.

10.) Composition according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it - be based on

Weight - 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.02 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-% and in particular 0.15 to 0.5 wt .-% proteolipid (s).

11. ) Composition according to one of claims 9 or 10, characterized in that the radical R ^" in formula

(Pl) for a peptide or a protein or a protein hydrolyzate. Stands, wherein preferred R ^"are oligopetids having at least one amino acid sequence Glu-Glu-Glu

12.) A process for the care of keratinic fibers, in which an agent is applied to the fibers and rinsed off again after a contact time, characterized in that the agent - based on its weight - d) 0 to 5 wt .-% water,

e) 20 to 60% by weight 01 (e);

f) 40 to 70% by weight of polyethylene glycol (s) of the formula (I)

with η = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 contains.

13.) A method according to claim 9, characterized in that the agent is wet on moist keratin

Fibers is applied.

14.) Use of agents which - by weight - d) 0 to 5 wt .-% water,

e) 20 to 60% by weight 01 (e);

f) 40 to 70% by weight of polyethylene glycol (s) of the formula (I)

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10

included, to strengthen the hair structure.