WO2013125054A1 - Procédé permettant de traiter des fibres kératiniques - Google Patents

Procédé permettant de traiter des fibres kératiniques Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013125054A1
WO2013125054A1 PCT/JP2012/055312 JP2012055312W WO2013125054A1 WO 2013125054 A1 WO2013125054 A1 WO 2013125054A1 JP 2012055312 W JP2012055312 W JP 2012055312W WO 2013125054 A1 WO2013125054 A1 WO 2013125054A1
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Prior art keywords
keratin fibers
process according
composition
alkyl
heating
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PCT/JP2012/055312
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English (en)
Inventor
Boris Lalleman
Maxime De Boni
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L'oreal
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Priority to PCT/JP2012/055312 priority Critical patent/WO2013125054A1/fr
Publication of WO2013125054A1 publication Critical patent/WO2013125054A1/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/10—Preparations for permanently dyeing the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/411—Aromatic amines, i.e. where the amino group is directly linked to the aromatic nucleus
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/41—Amines
    • A61K8/415—Aminophenols
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
    • A61K2800/805—Corresponding aspects not provided for by any of codes A61K2800/81 - A61K2800/95

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a process for treating keratin fibers such as hair.
  • oxidative bases such as ortho- or
  • oxidative bases are generally combined with couplers. These bases and these couplers are colorless or weakly colored compounds which, combined with oxidizing products, can give rise to colored compounds through an oxidative condensation process.
  • an objective of the present invention is to provide a dyeing process which is based on oxidative dye(s) having both better level of color coverage of keratin fibers - but also offering more intense coloring - and resistance to external factors or agents.
  • the above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a process for treating keratin fibers, in particular hair, comprising the steps of:
  • composition comprising at least 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more oxidative dyes;
  • the process may further comprise the step of rinsing the keratin fibers after the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers and/or after the step of heating the keratin fibers.
  • the process may further comprise providing the keratin fibers with mechanical tension.
  • the occlusive space may be formed by at least one coating means.
  • the coating means may be rigid or flexible.
  • the coating means may comprise at least one member selected from the group consisting of a film and a sheet.
  • the keratin fibers may be heated at 60 °C to 150 °C during the step of heating the keratin fibers.
  • the keratin fibers may be heated by at least one heater providing at least one selected from the group consisting of hot air, hot steam, high frequency induction heating, microwave heating, infrared ray irradiation, laser, and flash lamp irradiation.
  • the above coating means may comprise the heater.
  • the oxidative dye may be selected from oxidation bases and couplers. It is preferable that the oxidation bases be selected from ortho- and para-phenylenediarnines, double bases, ortho- and para-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and acid addition salts thereof.
  • the couplers be selected from meta-aminophenols, meta-phenylenediamines, meta-diphenols, naphthols, heterocyclic couplers and acid addition salts thereof.
  • the composition may comprise the oxidative dye in an amount of 0.001 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition comprise at least one organic compound which is liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) with a value of Hansen solubility parameter ( ⁇ ) of
  • This organic compound may be chosen among C 5 -C 30 alkanols; alcohol ethers, particularly Q-C 4 ether of C 5 -C 30 alcohols, preferably saturated, optionally interrupted by one or more non vicinal ether groups; aliphatic esters of Q-C 4 carboxylic acids and C 3 -C 10 monoalcohols or C 3 -C 10 polyols, optionally interrupted by one or more non vicinal ether groups; aromatic ethers, particularly C 6 -C 10 , of Q-C 6 alkyl, optionally bearing a hydroxyl group; alkanol with aryl or oxyaryl substituting group, particularly wherein the aryl part is a C 6 -C 10 aryl, preferably C 6 , and the alkanol is a -C 4 alkyl; lactones particularly of formula (I)
  • R' represents a hydrogen, a (CrC 8 ) alkyl group, a (CrC 4 ) hydroxyalkyl group, n means 1, 2 or 3; alkylene carbonate of formula (II) :
  • composition may comprise at least one oxidizing agent.
  • the composition may comprise at least one synthetic direct dye and/or at least one natural direct dye.
  • compositions for treating keratin fibers at a temperature from 50 to 250 °C in an occlusive space comprising at least one oxidative dye as mentioned above in an amount of 0.001% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition may comprise at least one oxidizing agent.
  • kit for treating keratin fibers comprising:
  • At least one coating means to form an occlusive space
  • At least one heater to heat the keratin fibers to from 50 to 250 °C in the occlusive space
  • composition comprising at least 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more oxidative dyes, as previously defined, and optionally comprising at least one oxidizing agent.
  • oxidative dye(s) which can provide the keratin fibers with intense color, better level of color coverage, and resistance to external factors or agents such as a shampoo.
  • the above coloring process involves in heating keratin fibers in a closed or occlusive environment, which limits the evaporation of water or moisture from the keratin fibers and maintains the keratin fibers at a higher temperature in the wet state.
  • the present invention is a process for treating keratin fibers comprising the steps of:
  • composition comprising at least 0.001% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of one or more oxidative dyes;
  • the present invention can provide keratin fibers with more intense color, lower selectivity (better level of color coverage along with the keratin fibers from root to tip), and resistance to external factors or agents such as a shampoo. (Composition)
  • the composition used for the present invention contains at least one oxidative dye. Two or more types of the oxidative dye may be used in combination.
  • the oxidative dye can be selected from oxidation bases and couplers.
  • the oxidation base can be selected from those conventionally known in oxidation dyeing, preferably from the group consisting of ortho- and para-phenylenediamines, double bases, ortho- and para-aminophenols, heterocyclic bases and the acid addition salts thereof. There may be mentioned in particular:
  • Ri represents a hydrogen atom, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl radical, a monohydroxy(C 1 -C 4 alkyl) radical, a polyhydroxy-(C 2 -C 4 alkyl) radical, a (C 1 -C 4 )alkoxy(C 1 -C 4 )alkyl radical, a Q-C 4 alkylradical substituted with a nitrogen-containing group, a phenyl radical or a 4'-aminophenyl radical;
  • R 2 represents a hydrogen atom, a -C4 alkyl radical, a monohydroxy(Ci-C 4 alkyl) radical, a polyhydroxy(C 2 -C 4 alkyl) radical, a (Q-G alkoxyCQ-C ⁇ alkyl radical or a Q-C4 alkyl radical substituted with a nitrogen-containing group;
  • R ⁇ and R 2 may also form with the nitrogen atom carrying them a 5- or 6-membered
  • nitrogen-containing heterocycle optionally substituted with one or more alkyl, hydroxyl or ureido groups
  • R3 represents a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom such as a chlorine atom, a Ci-C 4 alkyl radical, a sulpho radical, a carboxyl radical, a monohydroxy(C 1 -C 4 alkyl) radical, a hydroxy(C 1 -C 4 alkoxy) radical, an acetylamino(C 1 -C 4 alkoxy) radical, a mesylamino(C 1 -C 4 alkoxy) radical or a carbamoylamino(C 1 -C 4 alkoxy) radical; and
  • R4 represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or a C1-C4 alkyl radical.
  • nitrogen-containing groups of formula (I) above there may be mentioned in particular the amino, monoiQ-C ⁇ alkylamino, (Ci-C ⁇ dialkylamino, (Ci-C 4 )trialkylamino,
  • para-phenylenediamines of formula (I) above there may be mentioned more particularly para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-chloro-paraphenylenediamine, 2,3-dimethyl-para-phenylenediamine, 2,6-dimemyl-para-phenylenediamine,
  • N-( -hydroxypropyl)-paraphenylenediamine 2-hydroxymemyl-para-phenylenediamine, N,N-dimethyl-3-methylpara-phenylenediamine,
  • para-phenylenediamines of formula (I) above there are most particularly preferred para-phenylenediamine, para-tolylenediamine, 2-isopropyl-paraphenylenediamine,
  • double bases is understood to mean compounds containing at least two aromatic rings on which amino and/or hydroxyl groups are carried.
  • double bases which can be used as oxidation bases in the dyeing compositions in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned in particular compounds corresponding to the following formula II), and their addition salts with an acid:
  • - Zj and Z 2 which are identical or different, represent a hydroxyl or -NH 2 radical which may be substituted with a Ci-C4 alkyl radical or with a linking arm Y;
  • the linking arm Y represents a linear or branched alkylene chain comprising from 1 to 14 carbon atoms, which may be interrupted by or which may end with one or more nitrogen-containing groups and/or one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen, sulphur or nitrogen atoms, and optionally substituted with one or more hydroxyl or Q-C 6 alkoxy radicals;
  • R 5 and 3 ⁇ 4 represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, a Q-C 4 alkyl radical, a monohydroxy(Ci-C 4 alkyl) radical, a polyhydroxy(C 2 -C 4 alkyl) radical, an amino(C 1 -C 4 alkyl) radical or a linking arm
  • R.7, 3 ⁇ 4, R.9, R 10 , Rn and R 12 which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a linking arm Y or a Ci-C 4 alkyl radical; it being understood that the compounds of formula (II) contain only one linking arm Y per molecule.
  • R 13 represents a hydrogen atom, or a halogen atom such as fluorine, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl,
  • R 14 represents a hydrogen atom, or a halogen atom such as fluorine, a Q-C 4 alkyl,
  • the ormo-aminophenols which can be used as oxidation bases in the context of the present invention are chosen in particular from 2-aminophenol, 2-amino-l-hydroxy-5-methylbenzene, 2-amino-l-hydroxy-6-methylbenzene, 5-acetamido-2-aminophenol, and their addition salts with acid.
  • heterocyclic bases which can be used as oxidation bases in the dyeing compositions in accordance with the invention, there may be mentioned more particularly pyridine derivatives, pyrimidine derivatives, pyrazole derivatives, and their addition salts with an acid.
  • pyridine derivatives there may be mentioned more particularly the compounds described for example in Patents GB 1,026,978 and GB 1,153,196, such as 2,5-diaminopyridine, 2-(4-memoxyphenyl)amitio-3 -aminopyridine, 2,3 -diamino-6-methoxypyridine,
  • pyrimidine derivatives there may be mentioned more particularly the compounds described, for example, in Patents DE 2 359 399; JP 88-169571; JP 91-10659 or patent application WO 96/15765, such as 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrirnidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-txiaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dmydroxy-5,6-diammopyrimidine,
  • pyrazolo[l,5-a]-pyrimidine-3,7-diamine 2,5-dimemyl-pyrazolo[l,5-a]-pyriniidine-3,7-diamine; pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrimidine-3,5-diamine; 2,7-dimemylpyrazolo[l,5-a]pyriniidine-3,5-diarnine; 3-ammopyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrimidin-7-ol; 3-ammo-pyrazolo[l,5-a]pyrimidin-5-ol;
  • heterocyclic bases which can be used as oxidation bases, there may be mentioned more particularly diaminopyrazolopyrazolones and especially
  • the couplers may be an oxidation coupler which can be selected from those conventionally known in oxidation dyeing, preferably from the group consisting of meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthols, heterocyclic couplers and the acid addition salts thereof.
  • the heterocyclic couplers may be selected from the group consisting of indole derivatives, indoline derivatives, sesamol and its derivatives, pyridine derivatives, pyrazolotnazole derivatives, pyrazolones, indazoles, benzirnidazoles, benzothiazoles, benzoxazoles, 1,3-benzodioxoles, quinolines and their addition salts with an acid.
  • couplers are more particularly chosen from 2,4-diamino-l-( -hydroxyethyloxy)benzene, 2-methyl-5-aminophenol, 5-N-(P-hydroxyethyl)amino-2-methylphenol, 3-aminophenol,
  • the addition acid salts of the oxidation bases and couplers are chosen in particular from hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, sulfates, citrates, succinates, tartrates, lactates, tosylates, benzenesulfonates, phosphates and acetates.
  • the composition used for the present invention contains an oxidative dye or dyes (oxidation base(s) and/or coupler(s)) in an amount of 0.001% by weight or more, and may contain, for example, 0.001 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions used for the present invention may also contain at least one additional dye which can be chosen among the direct dyes, more particularly the synthetic direct dyes and the natural direct dyes.
  • Non-limiting examples of appropriate synthetic direct dyes include neutral, anionic(acidic), and cationic dyes azo, methine, carbonyl, azine, nitro(hetero)aryl types or tri(hetero)arylmethane direct dyes, ⁇ ⁇ > ⁇ 8 and phthalocyanines, fluorescent dyes, alone or as mixtures.
  • dyes of the family of the carbonyls mention may be made, for example, of nonnatural dyes chosen from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anthranthrone, pyranthrone, pyrazolanthrone, pyrimidinoanthrone, flavanthrone, indanthrone, flavone, (iso)violanthrone, isoindolinone, benzimidazolone, isoquinolinone, anthrapyridone, pyrazoloquinazolone, perinone, quinacridone, quinophthalone, naphthalimide, antlirapyrirnidine, diketopyrrolopyrrole or coumarin dyes.
  • nonnatural dyes chosen from acridone, benzoquinone, anthraquinone, naphthoquinone, benzanthrone, anth
  • the dyes of the family of the cyclic azines mention may in particular be made of azine, xanthene, thioxanthene, fluorindine, acridine, (di)oxazine, (di)thiazine or pyronine dyes.
  • the nitro(hetero)aromatic dyes are more particularly nitrobenzene or nitropyridine direct dyes.
  • cationic or noncationic compounds optionally comprising one or more metals or metal ions, such as, for example, alkali and alkaline earth metals, zinc and silicon.
  • fluorescent dyes is understood to mean fluorescent compounds and optical brighteners.
  • the fluorescent dye is soluble in the medium of the composition.
  • Fluorescent dyes are fluorescent compounds which absorb visible radiation, for example, wavelengths ranging from 400 to 800 nm, and which are capable of re-emitting light in the visible region at a higher wavelength.
  • the fluorescent dyes useful for the present invention re-emit orange-colored fluorescent light. They exhibit, for instance, a maximum re-emission wavelength ranging from 500 to 700 nm.
  • Non-limiting examples of fluorescent dyes include compounds known in the art, for example, those described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, Release 2004, 7th edition, “Fluorescent Dyes” chapter.
  • the optical brighteners are colorless transparent compounds as they do not absorb in visible light but only in ultraviolet light (wavelengths ranging from 200 to 400 nanometers) and convert the energy absorbed into fluorescent light of higher wavelength emitted in the visible part of the spectrum, generally in the blue and/or green, that is to say in wavelengths ranging from 400 to 550 nanometers.
  • Optical brighteners are known in the art, for example, they are described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry (2002), “Optical Brighteners” and Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology (1995): “Fluorescent WMening Agents”.
  • the fluorescent dyes which can be used in the composition of the present disclosure include compounds known from the art, for example, those described in French Patent No. 2 830 189.
  • tetraazacarbocyanines quinone and in particular anthraquinone, naphthoquinone or benzoquinone direct dyes, or azine, xanthene, triarylmethane, indoamine, phthalocyanine and porphyrin direct dyes, alone or as mixtures.
  • these additional synthetic direct dyes are chosen from nitrobenzene dyes, azo, azomethine or methine direct dyes and tetraazacarbocyanines (tetraazapentamethines); alone or as mixtures.
  • quinone dyes such as lawsone and juglone
  • alizarin purpurin
  • laccaic acid carminic acid
  • kermesic acid purpurogallin
  • protocatechaldehyde indigo
  • sorghum isatin
  • betanin curcurninoids
  • spinulosin various types of chlorophyll and chlorophyllin
  • hematoxylin hematein
  • brazilein brazilin
  • safflower dyes such as carthamin
  • flavonoids such as rutin, quercetin, catechin, epicatechin, morin, apigenidin, and sandalwood
  • anthocyans such as apigeninidin and apigenidin
  • carotenoids tannins, orceins, santalins and cochineal carmine.
  • composition used for the present invention may contain at least one additional direct dye, natural or synthetic, in an amount of 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably 1 to 20% by weight, and more preferably 2 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition used for the present invention may contain at least one oxidizing agent. Two or more types of the oxidizing agent may be used in combination.
  • the oxidizing agent may be chosen from hydrogen peroxide, peroxygenated salts, and compounds capable of producing hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis.
  • the oxidizing agent can be chosen from aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates and ferricyanides and persalts such as perborates and persulphates.
  • At least one oxidase enzyme chosen, for example, from laccases, peroxidases and 2-electron oxidoreductases such as uricase may also be used as the oxidizing agent, where appropriate in the presence of the respective donor or co-factor thereof.
  • the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide, such as an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution.
  • the hydrogen peroxide concentration may range from 0.15 to 12% by weight such as from 0.6 to 9% by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing agent.
  • the concentration of compounds capable of forming hydrogen peroxide by hydrolysis may range from 0.1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing agent.
  • the oxidizing agent when the oxidizing agent is an aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, the oxidizing agent may contain at least one hydrogen peroxide stabilizer, which may be chosen, for example, from alkali metal and alkaline-earth metal pyrophosphates, alkali metal and
  • alkaline-earth metal stannates phenacetin and salts of acids and of oxyquinoline, for example, oxyquinoline. sulphate.
  • at least one stannate optionally in combination with at least one pyrophosphate is used.
  • the concentration of the hydrogen peroxide stabilizer(s) may range from 0.0001 to 5% by weight such as from 0.01 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing agent.
  • the concentration ratio of the hydrogen peroxide to the at least one stabilizer may range from 0.05:1 to 1,000:1, such as from 0.1:1 to 500:1 and further such as from 1:1 to 200:1.
  • the oxidizing agent may be present in the composition used for the present invention or may be applied to keratin fibers independently as the form of an oxidizing composition.
  • the amount of the oxidizing agent(s) in the composition used for the present invention or the oxidizing composition may range from 0.0001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 10% by weight, and more preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. It is preferable that the composition used for the present invention contain at least one organic compound which is liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) with a value of Hansen
  • solubility parameter ( ⁇ ) of less than 16 MPa at 25 °C Two or more types of the organic compound may be used in combination.
  • the organic compound is preferably capable of functioning as an organic solvent.
  • the ⁇ value is preferably less than 15 MPa at 25 °C
  • the ⁇ value is greater than 0.
  • the ⁇ value may be greater than 3 MPa at 25 °C, preferably greater than 4 MPa 1/2 at 25 °C, and more preferably greater than 5 MPa 1 2 at 25 °C.
  • the organic compounds such as organic solvents, having a value of the Hansen solubility parameter ⁇ as defined previously are, for example, described in the reference work "Hansen solubility parameters ⁇ A user's handbook", Charles M. Hansen, CRC Press, 2000, pages 167 to 185.
  • This value takes into account the solubility parameter ⁇ linked to the formation of hydrogen bonds. It is recalled that there are three main types of interactions in organic compounds, non-polar interactions, permanent dipole-dipole interactions and hydrogen bonding type interactions, the latter being the subject of the parameter that defines the organic compound preferably used in the present invention.
  • the organic compound be selected from the group consisting of C 5 -C 3 o alkanols; alcohol ethers, particularly Q-Q ether of C 5 -C 30 alcohols, preferably saturated, optionally interrupted by one or more non vicinal ether groups; aliphatic esters of Q-C4
  • R" represents a hydrogen atom, a (Q-Cs) alkyl group, a (Q-C 4 ) hydroxyalkyl group.
  • propylene carbonate is preferred.
  • organic compound be selected from propyleneglycol derivatives, aromatic alcohols and alkylene carbonates.
  • propyleneglycol derivatives mention may be made of propyleneglycol ethers having at least one free alcohol functional moiety, or propyleneglycol esters having at least one ether moiety.
  • aromatic alcohol means an alcohol having at least one hydroxyl group which does not directly bond to an aromatic moiety such as a benzene ring.
  • aromatic alcohols mention may be made of benzyl alcohol, phenyl ethanol, and phenyl propanol.
  • the composition used for the present invention may contain the organic compound(s) which is/are liquid at 25 °C and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) with a value of Hansen solubility parameter of less than 16 MPa at 25 °C in an amount of 0.1 to 80% by weight, preferably 1 to 50% by weight, and more preferably 2 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition used for the present invention may contain water.
  • the amount of water in the composition used for the present invention may be at least equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the amount of water may be at least equal to 70% relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition used for the present invention may contain at least one additional organic solvent different from the compounds with the value of the component ⁇ of the Hansen solubility parameter as defined previously.
  • additional organic solvent such as ethanol and isopropanol
  • Q-C 4 lower alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol
  • polyols such as propylene glycol or glycerol and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the above additional organic solvent(s) in the composition used for the present invention may vary between around 0.1 and 80% by weight, preferably between around 0.5 and 50% by weight, and more preferably between 1 and 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions used for the present invention may also contain various adjuvants
  • compositions for dyeing hair such as anionic, non-ionic, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers, or mixtures thereof, antioxidants, penetrating agents, sequestering agents, fragrances, buffers, dispersing agents, conditioning agents, film-forming agents, ceramides, preservatives and opacifying agents.
  • conditioning agent mention may be made of branched or unbranched, volatile or non- volatile linear or cyclic silicones. These silicones may be in the form of oils, resins or gums, they may in particular be polyorganosiloxanes that are insoluble in the cosmetically acceptable medium. Organopolysiloxanes are defined in greater detail in the work by Walter Noll, "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968) Academic Press. They may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point between 60 °C and 260 °C.
  • conditioning agent use can also be made of polymers such as the polyquaterniums 22, 6, 10, 11, 35 and 37 and hexadimethrine chloride.
  • the concentration of conditioning agent(s) in the composition used for the present invention may vary from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • compositions used for the present invention may contain, in addition, at least one thickening agent also known as "rheology modifiers".
  • This agent may be mineral or organic.
  • the organic thickening agents may be chosen from fatty acid amides (coconut diethanolamide or monoethanol-amide, oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid monoethanolamide), polymeric thickeners such as cellulose thickeners (hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), homopolymers crosslinked with acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and neutral, anionic, amphoteric or cationic associative polymers (polymers comprising hydrophilic zones, and hydrophobic zones having a fatty chain, that are capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with one another or with other molecules).
  • fatty acid amides coconut diethanolamide or monoethanol-amide, oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid monoethanol
  • the thickener is polymeric and is chosen from cellulose thickeners (hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropyl guar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), homopolymers crosslinked with acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid.
  • composition used for the present invention may furthermore contain at least one surfactant.
  • the surfactant(s) may be selected from the following (i) to (iv). (i) Anionic Surfactant(s)
  • anionic surfactant is understood to mean a surfactant only comprising anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These groups are preferably chosen among the -C(0)OH, -C(0)0 " , -SO3H,
  • anionic parts comprise a cationic counter-ion such as an alkaline metal, an alkaline-earth metal or ammonium.
  • anionic surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the invention: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoether sulfates, alkylarylpolyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkyl amide sulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, alpha-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amide sulfosuccinates, alkyl sulfoacetates, acylsarcosinate, acylglutamates, alkyl sulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates, N-acyltaurates, alkyl and polyglycoside polycarboxylic
  • These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then comprise preferably from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.
  • the salts of C 6 -C 24 alkyl and polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acid monoesters can be chosen among the C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and the C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates.
  • anionic surfactant(s) when they is/are in salt form, they can be chosen from alkaline metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts and preferably sodium, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols, or alkaline-earth metal salts such as magnesium salts.
  • alkaline metal salts such as sodium or potassium salts and preferably sodium, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular amino alcohols, or alkaline-earth metal salts such as magnesium salts.
  • amino alcohol salts mono-, di- and
  • 2-arnino-2-methyl-l-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-l,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxy-memyl)amino methane Preferably the alkaline or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts are used.
  • (C 6 -C 24 )alkyl sulfates (C 6 -C 24 )alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkaline metal, ammonium, amino alcohol and alkaline-earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds, is preferred.
  • non-ionic surfactants are themselves also compounds which are well known per se (in this respect see, in particular, "Handbook of Surfactants” by M. R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp. 116-178). Thus, they may especially be chosen from
  • alcohols non-limiting list
  • a-diols or alkylphenols that are polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated, having a fatty chain comprising, for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging, in particular, from 2 to 50.
  • polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising, on average, 1 to 5,
  • amphoteric or Zwitterionic Surfactant(s) may especially be (non-limiting list) derivatives of aliphatic secondary or tertiary amines in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain comprising 8 to 18 carbon atoms and containing at least one water-solubilizing anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C -C 20 )alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C 8 -C 2 o)alkylamido-(C 1 -C6) alkyl betaines or
  • Caprylamphodiacetate Disodium Capryloamphodiacetate, Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate, Disodium Lauroamphodipropionate, Disodium Capryl-amphodipropionate, Disodium
  • cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate by Rhodia Chirnie.
  • cationic surfactants mention may, in particular, be made (non-limiting list) of: salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, Irialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; imidazoline derivatives; or oxides of amines having a cationic nature.
  • the amount of surfactant(s) present in the composition used for the process of the present invention may vary from 0.01 to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the pH of the composition applied to the keratin fibers is generally between 2 and 13, preferably between 3 and 11 , and more preferably between 7 and 11. It may be adjusted to the desired value using acidifying or basifying agents commonly used in dyeing keratinous fibers or else using conventional buffer systems.
  • acidifying agents mention may be made, by way of example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, ortho-phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid and sulfonic acids.
  • mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, ortho-phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid and sulfonic acids.
  • basifying agents mention may be made, by way of example, of ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triemanolamines and also their derivatives, sodium or potassium hydroxide and compounds of formula below:
  • R2 R4 wherein R denotes an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted by a hydroxyl or a Q-C 4 alkyl radical, and Ri, R 2 , R 3 and t independently denote a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical or a Ci-C 4 hydroxyalkyl radical, which may be exemplified by 1,3-propanediarnine and derivatives thereof. Arginine, urea and monoethanolamine are preferable.
  • the process for treating keratin fibers according to the present invention can be performed by: applying onto the keratin fibers the composition as described above;
  • keratin fibers such as hair are subjected to a specific heating process which is performed in an occlusive space.
  • the heating process can be performed by any heating means which can be freely controlled to realize the temperature desired for the process.
  • the heating process may preferably be performed by using a special heating device or devices that can form an occlusive space to restrict the evaporation of evaporable components such as water in the above-described composition from keratin fibers and keep a predetermined temperature in the heating device throughout the process.
  • a special heating device or devices that can form an occlusive space to restrict the evaporation of evaporable components such as water in the above-described composition from keratin fibers and keep a predetermined temperature in the heating device throughout the process.
  • the evaporable components such as water in the above-described composition evaporate from the keratin fibers, most of the heat energy applied to the keratin fibers will be consumed by the evaporation, and therefore the temperature of the keratin fibers cannot increase up to the predetermined temperature until all evaporable components in the composition evaporate.
  • the above heating device may comprise a heat energy source being either in contact with keratin fibers or apart from keratin fibers, and at least one means to form an occlusive space surrounding the keratin fibers.
  • the heat energy source is used to heat keratin fibers.
  • the heat energy source may be at least one heater providing at least one selected from the group consisting of hot air, hot steam, high frequency induction heating, microwave heating, infrared ray irradiation, laser, and flash lamp irradiation.
  • the occlusive space may be formed by at least one coating means.
  • a plurality of coating means may be used.
  • the coating means may be rigid or flexible.
  • the coating means may comprise at least one member selected from the group consisting of a film and a sheet.
  • the material of the film or the sheet is not limited.
  • the film or the sheet may comprise a thermoplastic or thermosetting resin, a paper, a textile, a bonnet, a metal foil such as aluminum foil, and the like.
  • the film or sheet may be set on a heating rod, a heating bar or a heating plate which is covered by keratin fibers.
  • the coating means may comprise the heat energy source. Therefore, for example, the film or sheet which includes a heater may be set on a rod, a bar, or a plate which is covered by keratin fibers.
  • the occlusive conditions can restrict the evaporation of evaporable components such as water in the above-described composition applied to keratin fibers, and therefore the temperature of the keratin fibers can be increased higher than that obtainable by a conventional heating process or device for the keratin fibers in open conditions. Furthermore, the keratin fibers can be heated effectively, and the keratin fibers can be heated evenly.
  • the occlusive space may comprise apertures, the surface area of which is less than 5%, preferably less than 3% and more particularly less than 0.5% of the total surface area of the coating means.
  • the total surface area of the coating means comprises the surface area of, when it is present, an opening means for the coating means.
  • the apertures may be passages, holes or orifices, which may allow an exchange of air between the occlusive space and the exterior thereof, especially when the reaction such as forming vapor inside the occlusive space is too great.
  • a person skilled in the art could form the apertures such that the diffusion of heat in the occlusive space is not impaired.
  • the keratin fibers can be heated at 50°C to 230 °C, preferably 60 °C to 200 °C, more preferably 60 °C to 150 °C, more preferably 60 °C to 90 °C, during the step of heating the keratin fibers.
  • the heating process may be performed for an appropriate time which is required to treat the keratin fibers.
  • the time length for the heating process is not limited, but it may be from 1 minute to 2 hours, preferably 1 minute to 1 hour, and more preferably 1 minute to 30 minutes.
  • the time for heating may be from 5 to 20 minutes, preferably 10 to 15 minutes.
  • the keratin fibers may be rinsed after the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers and/or after the step of heating the keratin fibers.
  • mechanical tension may be applied to the keratin fibers. If mechanical tension is provided to keratin fibers, the treatment process according to the present invention may be performed as follows.
  • keratin fibers are subjected to mechanical tension.
  • the mechanical tension can be applied to the keratin fibers by any means to deform the keratin fibers to an intended shape.
  • the mechanical tension may be provided by at least one reshaping or mechanically tensioning means selected from the group consisting of a curler, a roller, a clip, a plate and an iron.
  • the reshaping or mechanically tensioning means may comprise at least one heater as described above. If the keratin fibers are rolled around a curler, this rolling-up may be performed on the entire length of the keratin fibers or, for example, on half the length of the keratin fibers. Depending on, for example, the desired hairstyle shape and amount of curls, the rolling-up may be performed with more or less thick locks.
  • the above-described composition is applied to the keratin fibers.
  • the application of the composition may be performed by any means, such as a brush and a comb.
  • the keratin fibers to which the mechanical tension has been applied should be treated with the composition. It may be possible that the keratin fibers are left as they are for a certain amount of time, if necessary.
  • the heat energy is applied to the keratin fibers under occlusive conditions as described above.
  • This process for permanent deformation of keratin fibers may be performed without any step of oxidizing the keratin fibers. Therefore, the time required for the process according to the present invention can be shorter than that for a conventional process which needs an oxidizing step.
  • the keratin fibers may be rinsed after the step of applying the composition onto the keratin fibers and/or after the step of heating the keratin fibers.
  • the time for the heating should not be limited.
  • the temperature can be set, adjusted and regulated by using one or more heating means, and may be measured with a memo-measurement probe such as Digital Surface Sensor Module, reference MT-144, sold by Sakaguchi E.H VOC Corp (Japan), set on the keratin fibers.
  • a memo-measurement probe such as Digital Surface Sensor Module, reference MT-144, sold by Sakaguchi E.H VOC Corp (Japan)
  • the probe is set on a single keratin fiber.
  • the probe be set on the part of the keratin fibers which directly contacts with the occlusive space, and more preferably, the probe be set on the part of the keratin fibers which directly contacts with the occlusive space and forms the curl end of the keratin fibers, if a curler is used.
  • the temperature is measured at atmospheric pressure of 101 ,325 Pa.
  • the temperature of the keratin fibers may be constant with a fluctuation of ⁇ 2 or 3 °C over the head, if the keratin fibers are hair, of an individual, and the probe may be set on any type of keratin fibers.
  • the constant temperature with a fluctuation of ⁇ 2 or 3 °C can be obtained for any type of hair, and the temperature of the hair can be controlled to be constant ⁇ 2 or 3 °C during the heating of the hair at a certain temperature.
  • the hair style becomes uniform and homogeneous for the entirety of the hair, and a further excellent hair style can be finally obtained.
  • the coating means may comprise one or more thermal insulating materials, and more advantageously, the coating means may consist of the material(s).
  • thermal insulating material means any material which has an electric conductivity of 0 to 1 W/m°C (PVC: 0.17 W/m°C).
  • the heating means may be adjusted such that the temperature measured on the keratin fibers is 50°C or more, more preferably 55°C to less than 150°C, and further more preferably less than 100°C. It is preferable that the heating be performed by heating via electrical resistance.
  • the coating means is impermeable with regard to the composition used in the step b).
  • At least one of the reshaping or mechanical tensioning means and at least one of the covering means may include a heater.
  • occlusive space means that when the coating means is placed on the reshaping or mechanical tensioning means, or vice versa, they together form a closed structure in which heat can diffuse, but heat cannot diffuse out of or is difficult to diffuse out of the closed structure. It is preferable that the coating means and the reshaping or mechanical tensioning means can form the occlusive space when they are set on the head, if the keratin fibers are hair.
  • the occlusive space may form a condensation cage in which water and a component or components in the composition used in the step b) may evaporate from the keratin fibers, adhere to the wall of the coating means, and drop onto the keratin fibers. This cycle may be repeated during the heating of the keratin fibers.
  • the keratin fibers can be always kept wet, and drying and deterioration of the keratin fibers will be prevented.
  • the formation of the occlusive space is an important characteristic of the present invention, because the keratin fibers in the occlusive space can be kept wet and the temperature of the keratin fibers can be kept constant.
  • the process of the present invention may comprise an additional step of tightening the coating means on the head of an individual, if the keratin fibers are hair, by an elastic cord, an extensible band, or a stretch.
  • the amount of a cosmetic component or components in the composition is advantageously reduced as compared to the processes in the prior art.
  • the amount of the cosmetic component(s) may be 0.3 to 3 % by weight of the composition.
  • a coating means may be placed on each hair curler as the reshaping or mechanically tensioning means, if the keratin fibers are hair.
  • each of the hair curlers if two or more hair curlers are used, may be covered individually by a coating means. It is advantageous to cover each hair curler because leaking to the scalp of the composition which has been applied onto keratin fibers in the step b) can be prevented.
  • a coating means may cover all hair curlers, if two or more hair curlers are used.
  • the coating means may cover the entirety of the head if the keratin fibers are hair.
  • the occlusive space formed in the step d) may be maintained during the step e).
  • the coating means may be removed only after the step e) or after the stopping of the heating in the step e).
  • the composition may be applied to keratin fibers before applying mechanical tension to the keratin fibers. It may be possible that the keratin fibers are left as they are for a certain amount of time, if necessary, before and/or after applying mechanical tension to the keratin fibers, before and/or after applying the above-described composition to the keratin fibers, and before and/or after heating the keratin fibers.
  • the keratin fibers may be fixed by oxidation after being taken out from the coating means.
  • the present invention also relates to use of a composition for treating keratin fibers at a temperature from 50 to 250 °C in an occlusive space, comprising at least one oxidative dye as mentioned above in an amount of 0.001 % by weight or more of the composition.
  • This composition may have the same technical features as those of the composition described above.
  • the composition may comprise at least one oxidizing agent.
  • the present invention also relates to a kit for treating keratin fibers, comprising:
  • At least one coating means to form an occlusive space
  • At least one heater to heat the keratin fibers to from 50 to 250 °C in the occlusive space
  • composition comprising at least one oxidative dye in an amount of 0.001% by weight or more of the composition, which may optionally comprise at least one oxidizing agent.
  • the coating means and the heater, as well as the composition in the kit, may be the same as those described above.
  • each of the other natural or permed hair swatch was rolled on a curler composed of a 1.7 cm diameter polyethylene cylinder covering an electric resistance. Then, the hair swatch on the curler was further covered with a
  • Example 1 It was also found that the color of the hair swatches according to Example 1 was less selective and more intense than that of the hair swatches according to Control 1. In particular, the Chinese hair swatch colored in accordance with Example 1 had further less selective and more brilliant color than that colored according to Control 1.

Abstract

La présente invention concerne un procédé permettant de traiter des fibres kératiniques, en particulier des cheveux, comprenant les étapes consistant à : appliquer sur les fibres kératiniques une composition comprenant au moins 0,001 % en poids, par rapport au poids total de la composition, d'un ou de plusieurs colorants oxydants ; placer les fibres kératiniques dans un espace occlusif ; et chauffer les fibres kératiniques à une température comprise entre 50 et 250 °C. La présente invention concerne un nouveau procédé de coloration pour fibres kératiniques, telles que les cheveux, basé sur une ou plusieurs colorations oxydantes pouvant donner une couleur plus intense aux fibres kératiniques avec un meilleur niveau de couverture de la couleur, une meilleure résistance aux facteurs ou agents externes tels qu'un shampooing.
PCT/JP2012/055312 2012-02-24 2012-02-24 Procédé permettant de traiter des fibres kératiniques WO2013125054A1 (fr)

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Cited By (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2019122850A1 (fr) * 2017-12-22 2019-06-27 Jemella Limited Procédé et appareil de coloration de fibres capillaires au moyen d'un rayonnement électromagnétique radiofréquence

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2019122850A1 (fr) * 2017-12-22 2019-06-27 Jemella Limited Procédé et appareil de coloration de fibres capillaires au moyen d'un rayonnement électromagnétique radiofréquence
CN111629707A (zh) * 2017-12-22 2020-09-04 洁美来有限公司 使用射频电磁辐射染色毛发纤维的方法和装置
GB2569647B (en) * 2017-12-22 2023-07-19 Jemella Ltd Method of dyeing hair fibres and kits and appliances for use in the same
US11872295B2 (en) 2017-12-22 2024-01-16 Jemella Limited Method and apparatus for dyeing hair fibres using radio frequency electromagnetic radiation

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