WO2013117551A1 - Cosmetic composition comprising silica aerogel particles and a clay - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition comprising silica aerogel particles and a clay Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013117551A1
WO2013117551A1 PCT/EP2013/052249 EP2013052249W WO2013117551A1 WO 2013117551 A1 WO2013117551 A1 WO 2013117551A1 EP 2013052249 W EP2013052249 W EP 2013052249W WO 2013117551 A1 WO2013117551 A1 WO 2013117551A1
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Prior art keywords
composition
weight
oil
μηη
clays
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PCT/EP2013/052249
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English (en)
French (fr)
Inventor
Raluca Lorant
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L'oreal
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Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to CN201380016752.0A priority Critical patent/CN104203198B/zh
Priority to BR112014019440A priority patent/BR112014019440A8/pt
Publication of WO2013117551A1 publication Critical patent/WO2013117551A1/en
Priority to IN7221DEN2014 priority patent/IN2014DN07221A/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/26—Aluminium; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/008—Preparations for oily skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns

Definitions

  • Cosmetic composition comprising silica aerogel particles and a clay
  • the present patent application relates to a composition for topical application comprising hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and at least one clay, and to the use of said composition in the cosmetic and dermatological fields, in particular for caring for or treating keratinous substances.
  • Clays are commonly used in cosmetics for their properties of purifying, cleaning and absorbing excess grease or impurities deposited on the skin.
  • Clays are used in particular in products such as purifying masks, cleansing products or in products for caring for the skin, in particular for greasy skin.
  • the Applicant Company has found, surprisingly, that the combination of a silica aerogel with clays makes it possible to overcome the disadvantages related to the use of clays and to obtain products exhibiting a uniform application and the absence of a "pilling" effect.
  • a subject matter of the present invention is a composition for topical application comprising hydrophobic silica aerogel particles and at least one clay.
  • composition of the invention is intended for topical application to the skin or superficial body growths, it comprises a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with all keratinous substances, such as the skin, nails, mucous membranes and keratinous fibers (such as the hair or eyelashes).
  • a physiologically acceptable medium that is to say a medium compatible with all keratinous substances, such as the skin, nails, mucous membranes and keratinous fibers (such as the hair or eyelashes).
  • composition of the invention makes it possible to obtain a uniform and pleasant application of the product without the appearance of little balls at the various stages of use of the product, whether during application, during drying or during removal, when a cleansing product is concerned (such as a wash-off mask).
  • a cleansing product such as a wash-off mask.
  • Another subject matter of the invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of keratinous substances which consists in applying, to the keratinous substances, a composition as defined above.
  • compositions are used in the cosmetic or dermatological field and in particular for caring for, protecting and/or making up the skin of the body or face or for caring for the hair.
  • Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.
  • sol-gel processes are generally synthesized via a sol-gel process in a liquid medium and then dried, usually by extraction with a supercritical fluid, the one most commonly used being supercritical C0 2 . This type of drying makes it possible to avoid shrinkage of the pores and of the material.
  • the sol-gel process and the various drying operations are described in detail in Brinker C.J. and Scherer G.W., Sol-Gel Science, New York, Academic Press, 1990.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention exhibit a specific surface per unit of weight (S w ) ranging from 500 to 1500 m 2 /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m 2 /g and better still from 600 to 800 m 2 /g, and a size, expressed as the volume- average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 1500 ⁇ , better still from 1 to 1000 ⁇ , preferably from 1 to 100 ⁇ , in particular from 1 to 30 ⁇ , more preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • S w specific surface per unit of weight
  • D[0.5] volume- average diameter
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a size, expressed as volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from 1 to 30 ⁇ , preferably from 5 to 25 ⁇ , better still from 5 to 20 ⁇ and even better still from 5 to 15 ⁇ .
  • D[0.5] volume-average diameter
  • the specific surface per unit of weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society, Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, which corresponds to international standard ISO 5794/1 (appendix D).
  • BET Brunauer-Emmett-Teller
  • the BET specific surface corresponds to the total specific surface of the particles under consideration.
  • the sizes of the silica aerogel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer of MasterSizer 2000 type from Malvern.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of nonspherical particles, an "effective" particle diameter.
  • This theory is described in particular in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles", Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention exhibit a specific surface per unit of weight (S w ) ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g and a size, expressed as the volume-average diameter (D[0.5]), ranging from
  • the silica aerogel particles used in the present invention can advantageously exhibit a packed density (p) ranging from 0.04 g/cm 3 to 0.10 g/cm 3 and preferably from 0.05 g/cm 3 to 0.08 g/cm 3 .
  • this density known as the packed density
  • this density can be assessed according to the following protocol:
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention exhibit a specific surface per unit of volume S v ranging from 5 to 60 m 2 /cm 3 , preferably from 10 to 50 m 2 /cm 3 and better still from 15 to 40 m 2 /cm 3 .
  • S v S w x p; where p is the packed density, expressed in g/cm 3 , and S w is the specific surface per unit of weight, expressed in m 2 /g, as defined above.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles according to the invention have an oil absorption capacity, measured at the wet point, ranging from 5 to 18 ml/g, preferably from
  • the absorption capacity measured at the wet point corresponds to the amount of oil which it is necessary to add to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
  • the oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/w.
  • the aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name: silica silylate) aerogels.
  • hydrophobic silica is understood to mean any silica, the surface of which is treated with silylating agents, for example with halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes, so as to functionalize the OH groups with silyl groups Si-Rn, for example trimethylsilyl groups.
  • silylating agents for example with halogenated silanes, such as alkylchlorosilanes, siloxanes, in particular dimethylsiloxanes, such as hexamethyldisiloxane, or silazanes
  • hydrophobic silica aerogel particles modified at the surface with trimethylsilyl groups trimethylsilylated silica
  • hydrophobic silica aerogels which can be used in the invention, for example, of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name: Silica silylate) by Dow Corning, the particles of which exhibit an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface per unit of weight ranging from 600 to 800 m 2 /g. Mention may also be made of the aerogels sold by Cabot under the references Aerogel TLD 201 , Aerogel OGD 201 , Aerogel TLD 203, Enova® Aerogel MT 1 100 and Enova Aerogel MT 1200.
  • the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content as active material ranging from 0.1 % to 15% by weight, preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight, better still from 1 % to 5% by weight and more preferably from 1 % to 3% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • Clays Clays are products which are already well known per se and which are described, for example, in the publication Mineralogie des argiles [Mineralogy of Clays], S. Caillere, S. Henin and M. Rautureau, 2nd Edition 1982, Masson, the teaching of which is included herein by way of reference.
  • clays of the family of the smectites such as laponite and montmorillonite
  • the family of the kaolinites such as kaolinite, dickite or nacrite
  • optionally modified clays of the family of halloysite, donbassite, antigorite, berthierine or pyrophyllite montmorillonites, beidellite, vermiculites, talc, ste
  • the clay or clays present in the composition of the invention can be natural or synthetic.
  • Natural clay is a sedimentary rock in large part composed of specific minerals, silicates, generally, of aluminum. Kaolin is thus a natural clay.
  • Clays can also be chemically modified by various compounds, such as acrylic acids, polysaccharides (for example carboxymethylcellulose) or organic cations.
  • Use is preferably made, in the context of the present invention, of clays which are cosmetically compatible with and acceptable to the hair, skin and/or scalp.
  • the clay employed is chosen from kaolinite, montmorillonites, saponites, laponites, bentonites, and in particular hectorites, and illites. Use will more particularly be made of mixtures of clays, and natural clays.
  • Mention may be made, as natural clay, of green clays, in particular rich in illite; clays rich in montmorillonite, known under the name of fuller's earth, or such as bentonites, or also white clays rich in kaolinite. Mention may in particular be made, as bentonites, of those sold under the names "Bentone 38 VCG”, “Bentone Gel CAO V", “Bentone 27 V” and “Bentone Gel MIO V” by Elementis.
  • Montmorillonites and smectites are hydrated aluminum and/or magnesium silicates. Mention may be made, as example, of the montmorillonite sold under the name Gel White H by Rockwood Additives and of the purified smectite sold under the name Veegum Granules by Vanderbilt. Mention may also be made of the montmorillonite sold under the name Kunipia G4 by Kunimine and the sepiolite Pangel S9 sold by Tolsa.
  • Talcs are hydrated magnesium silicates usually comprising aluminum silicate.
  • the crystal structure of talc consists of repeated layers of a sandwich of brucite between layers of silica. Mention may be made, as examples, of micronized magnesium silicate with a particle size of 5 microns, sold under the name Micro Ace P3 by Nippon Talc, or the talcs sold under the names Rose Talc and Talc SG-2000 by Nippon Talc, J 68 BC by US Cosmetics (Miyoshi), Luzenac 00 and Luzenac Pharma M by Luzenac and Talc JA-46R by Asada Milling.
  • the clay or clays are present in the composition in accordance with the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 % to 50% by weight, in particular from 1 % to 30% by weight and especially from 1 % to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition according to the invention can be provided in various formulation forms conventionally used for topical applications and in particular in the form of dispersions of the serum type, of emulsions with a liquid or semiliquid consistency of the milk type, obtained by dispersion of a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O/W) or vice versa (W/O), or of suspensions or emulsions with a soft, semisolid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or alternatively of multiple emulsions (W/O/W or 0/W/O), of microemulsions, or of vesicular dispersions of ionic and/or nonionic type.
  • These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods.
  • compositions used according to the invention can be more or less fluid and can have the appearance of a gel, a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a serum, a paste or a foam.
  • composition according to the invention is provided in the form of an anhydrous composition.
  • composition according to the invention is provided in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising a continuous oily phase and an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase or in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a continuous aqueous phase and an oily phase dispersed in said aqueous phase.
  • the composition of the invention is provided in the form of an emulsion of oil-in-water type (direct emulsion).
  • anhydrous is understood to mean a composition comprising a content of less than or equal to 1 % by weight of water, preferably of less than or equal to 0.5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of said composition, indeed even devoid of water. If appropriate, such small amounts of water may in particular be introduced by ingredients of the composition, which may comprise residual amounts thereof.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one fatty phase.
  • the proportion of the fatty phase can range, for example, from 30% to 99% by weight and preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the proportion of the fatty phase can range, for example, from 1 % to 80% by weight and preferably from 5% to 40% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • This indicated amount does not comprise the content of lipophilic surfactants.
  • the fatty phase includes any fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, generally oils, or which is solid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, such as waxes, or any pasty compound, which are present in said composition.
  • the fatty phase of the composition in accordance with the invention generally comprises at least one volatile or nonvolatile oil.
  • oil is understood to mean any fatty substance which is in liquid form at ambient temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile or nonvolatile oils can be hydrocarbon oils, in particular of animal or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils or their mixtures.
  • silicon oil is understood to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-0 group.
  • hydrocarbon oil is understood to mean an oil mainly comprising hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms.
  • nonvolatile oil is understood to mean an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa (0.01 mmHg).
  • nonvolatile oils can be chosen in particular from nonvolatile hydrocarbon oils, if appropriate fluorinated, and/or nonvolatile silicone oils.
  • nonvolatile hydrocarbon oil suitable for use in the invention of:
  • oils of vegetable origin such as phytosteryl esters, such as phytosteryl oleate, phytosteryl isostearate and lauroyl/octyldodecyl/phytosteryl glutamate, for example sold under the name Eldew PS203 by Ajinomoto, triglycerides composed of fatty acid esters of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C 4 to C 24 , it being possible for the latter to be linear or branched and saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, corn oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin
  • oils of formula RiCOOR 2 in which R-i represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular a branched hydrocabon chain, comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R-i + R 2 is > 10.
  • esters can in particular be chosen from esters, in particular fatty acid esters, such as, for example:
  • dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol CC from Cognis), cetearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2- ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate,
  • esters of dimer diols and of dimer diacids such as Lusplan DD-DA5 ® and Lusplan DD-DA7 ® , sold by Nippon Fine Chemical and described in patent application FR 03 02809,
  • fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature, comprising a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2- undecylpentadecanol,
  • ⁇ higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and their mixtures, and
  • dialkyl carbonates it being possible for the two alkyl chains to be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate, sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis,
  • nonvolatile silicone oils such as, for example, nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups which are pendent and/or at the ends of the silicone chain, which groups each have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes and (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyl trimethicones with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt, and their mixtures;
  • PDMSs nonvolatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones,
  • volatile oil is understood to mean an oil (or nonaqueous medium) which is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure.
  • the volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a nonzero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, especially having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 "3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1 .3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • the volatile hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C 8 -Ci 6 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the Isopar ® or Permethyl ® trade names.
  • hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular branched C 8 -Ci 6 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, for example the oils sold under the Isopar ® or Permethyl ® trade names.
  • volatile oils of volatile silicones, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 x 10 "6 m 2 /s), and having in particular from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and especially from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicones such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 x 10 "6 m 2 /s), and having in particular from 2 to 10 silicon atoms and especially from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, of dimethicones with viscosities of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane and their mixtures.
  • Use may also be made of volatile fluorinated oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and their mixtures.
  • the composition comprises at least one volatile oil (whether a silicone oil or a hydrocarbon oil).
  • pasty fatty substance is understood to mean a lipophilic fatty compound which exhibits a reversible solid/liquid change in state, which exhibits, in the solid state, an anisotropic crystalline arrangement and which comprises, at a temperature of 23°C, a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the starting melting point of the pasty fatty substance can be less than 23°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance, measured at 23°C, can represent from 9% to 97% by weight of the pasty fatty substance. This liquid fraction at 23°C preferably represents between 15% and 85% and more preferably between 40% and 85% by weight.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of a pasty fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments.
  • the measurement protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and is finally subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of pasty fatty substance is measured as a function of the temperature.
  • the melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the value of the temperature corresponding to the tip of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at 23°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by the latter in order to pass from the solid state to the liquid state.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when all of its mass is in crystalline solid form.
  • the pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form.
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), such as the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments, with a temperature rise of 5°C or 10°C per minute, according to the standard ISO 1 1357-3:1999.
  • DSC differential scanning calorimeter
  • the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the amount of energy required to make the pasty fatty substance change from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g.
  • the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state which it exhibits at 23°C, consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32°C preferably represents from 30% to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance, preferably from 50% to 100%, more preferably from 60% to 100% by weight of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty fatty substance is less than or equal to 32°C.
  • the liquid fraction of the pasty fatty substance measured at 32°C is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
  • the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32°C is calculated in the same way as the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23°C.
  • the pasty fatty substance is preferably chosen from synthetic fatty substances and fatty substances of vegetable origin.
  • a pasty fatty substance can be obtained by synthesis from starting materials of vegetable origin.
  • polyol ethers chosen from ethers of pentaerythritol and of polyalkylene glycol, ethers of fatty alcohol and of sugar, and their mixtures, the ether of pentaerythritol and of polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylene (5 OE) units (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), the ether of pentaerythritol and of polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene (5 OP) units (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and their mixtures, and more especially the PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil mixture, sold under the name Lanolide by Vevy, in which mixture the constituents are in a 46/46/8 ratio by weight: 46% PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% PPG-5 Pentaerythrity
  • the pasty fatty substance is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer.
  • copolymers such that the long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of from 1000 to 10 000, for example a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer, such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.
  • a polyoxyethylene/polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as the ethers of dodecanediol (22 mol) and of polyethylene glycol (45 OE) sold under the brand name Elfacos ST9 by Akzo Nobel.
  • - esters of a glycerol oligomer in particular diglycerol esters, especially condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which a portion of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols has reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as in particular those sold under the brand name Softisan 649 by Sasol,
  • esters of dimer diol and dimer diacid if appropriate esterified on their free alcohol or acid functional group(s) by acid or alcohol radicals, in particular dimer dilinoleate esters; such esters can be chosen in particular from esters with the following INCI nomenclature: bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl isostearyl dimer dilinoleate (Lusplan PI-DA or Lusplan PHY/IS-DA), phytosteryl/isostearyl/cetyl/stearyl/behenyl dimer dilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and their mixtures,
  • mango butter such as that sold under the reference Lipex 203 by AarhusKarlshamn, - hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil or mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as the soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed hydrogenated vegetable oil mixture, for example the mixture sold under the reference Akogel ® by AarhusKarlshamn (INCI name: Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil),
  • shea butter in particular that having the INCI name Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that sold under the reference Sheasoft ® by AarhusKarlshamn,
  • cocoa butter in particular that which is sold under the name CT Cocoa Butter Deodorized by Dutch Cocoa BV or that which is sold under the name Beurre De Cacao NCB HD703 758 by Barry Callebaut,
  • the pasty fatty substance is chosen from shea butter, cocoa butter, shorea butter, a soybean, coconut, palm and rapeseed hydrogenated vegetable oil mixture, and their mixtures, and more particularly those referenced above.
  • the waxes under consideration in the context of the present invention are generally deformable or nondeformable solid lipophilic compounds at ambient temperature (25°C) which exhibit a reversible solid/liquid change in state and which have a melting point of greater than or equal to 30°C which can range up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
  • ambient temperature 25°C
  • 30°C 30°C which can range up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.
  • the melting point corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in the standard ISO 1 1357-3; 1999.
  • the melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name MDSC 2920 by TA Instruments.
  • the measurement protocol is as follows:
  • a sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, it is then cooled from 100°C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally it is subjected to a second temperature rise ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
  • the variation in the difference in power absorbed by the empty crucible and by the crucible containing the sample of wax is measured as a function of the temperature.
  • the melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the tip of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature.
  • the waxes capable of being used in a composition according to the invention are chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin and their mixtures which are solid at ambient temperature. They can be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and/or silicone waxes.
  • hydrocarbon waxes such as natural beeswax (or bleached beeswax), synthetic beeswax, carnauba wax, rice bran wax, such as that sold under the reference NC 1720 by Cera Jamaica Noda, candelilla wax, such as that sold under the reference SP 75 G by Strahl & Pitsch
  • microcrystalline waxes such as, for example, the microcrystalline waxes having a melting point of greater than 85°C, such as the products HI-MIC® 1070, 1080, 1090 and 3080 sold by Nippon Seiro, ceresins or ozokerites, such as, for example, isoparaffins having a melting point of less than 40°C, such as the product EMW-0003 sold by Nippon Seiro, oolefin oligomers, such as the Performa V® 825, 103 and 260 polymers sold by New Phase Technologies, ethylene/propylene copolymers
  • the wax used in a composition in accordance with the invention exhibits a melting point of greater than 35°C, better still of greater than 40°C, indeed even of greater than 45°C or also of greater than 55°C.
  • the wax or waxes are chosen from polymethylene waxes; the silicone wax sold under the name Dow Corning 2501 Cosmetic Wax by Dow Corning (INCI name: bis-PEG-18 methyl ether dimethyl silane); beeswax; vegetable waxes, such as carnauba wax; the mixture of polyglycerolated (3 mol) vegetable (mimosa/jojoba/sunflower) waxes sold under the name Hydracire S by Gattefosse; or the hydrogenated castor oil sold under the name Antisettle CVP by Cray Valley.
  • the other fatty substances which can be present in the fatty phase are, for example, fatty acids comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid or palmitic acid, or fatty alcohols comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol and their mixtures (cetearyl alcohol).
  • the fatty phase can also comprise other compounds dissolved in the oils, such as gelling agents and/or structuring agents.
  • These compounds can in particular be chosen from gums, such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl C1 -4 alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; and silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the KSG names by Shin-Etsu, under the Trefil name by Dow Corning or under the Gransil names by Grant Industries; and their mixtures.
  • gums such as silicone gums (dimethiconol); silicone resins, such as trifluoromethyl C1 -4 alkyl dimethicone and trifluoropropyl dimethicone; and silicone elastomers, such as the products sold under the KSG names by Shin-Etsu, under the Trefil name by Dow Corning or under the Gransil names by Grant Industries; and their mixtures.
  • fatty substances can be chosen in a manner varied by a person skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture.
  • the aqueous phase comprises at least water.
  • the amount of aqueous phase can range from 0.1 % to 99% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 98% by weight, better still from 30% to 95% by weight and even better still from 40% to 95% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • the amount of water may represent all or a portion of the aqueous phase and it is generally at least 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably at least 50% by weight and better still at least 60% by weight.
  • the aqueous phase can comprise at least one hydrophilic solvent, such as, for example, substantially linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 8 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, propanol, butanol, isopropanol or isobutanol; polyols, such as propylene glycol, isoprene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol or polyethylene glycols and their derivatives, and their mixtures.
  • the emulsions generally comprise at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. The emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or 07W).
  • the emulsifiers are generally present in the composition in a proportion as active material ranging from 0.1 % to 30% by weight and preferably from 0.2% to 20% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • W/O emulsions for example, as emulsifiers, of dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and of dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C by Dow Corning or the oxyethylenated polydimethylsiloxane PEG-10 Dimethicone sold under the name KF-6017 by Shin-Etsu, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as the lauryl methicone copolyol sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning and the cetyl dimethicone copolyol sold under the name Abil EM 90 R by Goldschmidt, or the polyglyceryl-4 isostearate/cetyl dimethicone copolyol/hexyl laurate mixture sold under the name Abil WE 09 by Goldschmidt.
  • dimethicone copolyols such as the mixture
  • coemulsifiers can also be added thereto.
  • the coemulsifier can advantageously be chosen from the group consisting of polyol alkyl esters. Mention may in particular be made, as polyol alkyl esters, of glycerol and/or sorbitan esters, for example polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by Goldschmidt, sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI, sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by ICI, and their mixtures.
  • polyglyceryl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Isolan Gl 34 by Goldschmidt
  • sorbitan isostearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987 by ICI
  • sorbitan glyceryl isostearate such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986 by
  • O/W emulsions for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants and in particular esters of polyols and of fatty acid having a saturated or unsaturated chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say derivatives comprising oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene units, such as glyceryl esters of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; polyethylene glycol esters of C 8 - C 2 4 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; sorbitol esters of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers of C 8 -C 2 4 fatty alcohols, and their mixtures.
  • emulsifiers of nonionic surfactants and in particular esters of poly
  • glyceryl ester of fatty acid of glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono-, di- and/or tristearate) (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate) or glyceryl ricinoleate, and their mixtures.
  • polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid of polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol mono-, di- and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and their mixtures.
  • polyethylene glycol ester of fatty acid of polyethylene glycol stearate (polyethylene glycol mono-, di- and/or tristearate) and more especially polyethylene glycol 50 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-50 stearate), polyethylene glycol 100 OE monostearate (CTFA name: PEG-100 stearate) and their mixtures.
  • Use may also be made of mixtures of these surfactants, such as, for example, the product comprising glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by Uniqema, and the product comprising glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono/distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).
  • these surfactants such as, for example, the product comprising glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate, sold under the name Arlacel 165 by Uniqema, and the product comprising glyceryl stearate (glyceryl mono/distearate) and potassium stearate, sold under the name Tegin by Goldschmidt (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate SE).
  • fatty alcohol ethers for example, of polyethylene glycol ethers of fatty alcohol comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and in particular from 10 to 22 carbon atoms, such as polyethylene glycol ethers of cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or cetearyl alcohol (mixture of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol).
  • ethers comprising from 1 to 200 and preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylene groups, such as those with the CTFA name Ceteareth-20 or Ceteareth-30, and their mixtures.
  • sugar mono- or polyalkyl esters or ethers of methyl glucose isostearate, sold under the name Isolan-IS by Degussa Goldschmidt, or else sucrose distearate, sold under the name Crodesta F50 by Croda, and sucrose stearate, sold under the name Ryoto sugar ester S 1570 by Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods.
  • lipoamino acids and their salts such as monosodium and disodium acylglutamates, such as, for example, monosodium stearoyl glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft HS-1 1 PF, and disodium stearoyl glutamate, sold under the name Amisoft HS-21 P, by Ajinomoto.
  • compositions of the invention can comprise one or more of the adjuvants normal in the cosmetic and dermatological fields: hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents and/or thickeners; moisturizers; emollients; hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents; agents for combating free radicals; sequestering agents; antioxidants; preservatives; basifying or acidifying agents; fragrances; film-forming agents; fillers; and their mixtures.
  • the amounts of these various adjuvants are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration.
  • the amounts of active agents vary according to the desired objective and are those conventionally used in the fields under consideration, for example from 0.1 % to 20% and preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • composition in accordance with the invention additionally comprises at least one mattifying filler other than clays.
  • spherical organic powders for example, of polyamide powders and in particular Nylon® powders, such as Nylon-1 or Polyamide 12 powder, sold under the Orgasol names by Atochem; polyethylene powders; Teflon®; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer, sold by Dow Corning under the Polytrap name; expanded powders, such as hollow microspheres and in particular the microspheres sold under the Expancel name by Kemanord Plast or under the name Micropearl F 80 ED by Matsumoto; silicone resin microbeads, such as those sold under the Tospearl name by Toshiba Silicone; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name Microsphere M-100 by Matsumoto or under the name Covabead LH85 by Wackherr; ethylene/acrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the Flobea
  • fibers for example, of polyamide fibers, such as in particular Nylon 6 (or Polyamide 6) (INCI name: Nylon 6) fibers, Nylon 6,6 (or Polyamide 66) (INCI name: Nylon 66) fibers, or such as poly(p-phenylene terephthamide) fibers; and their mixtures.
  • polyamide fibers such as in particular Nylon 6 (or Polyamide 6) (INCI name: Nylon 6) fibers, Nylon 6,6 (or Polyamide 66) (INCI name: Nylon 66) fibers, or such as poly(p-phenylene terephthamide) fibers; and their mixtures.
  • the perlites which can be used in the context of the invention can be expanded perlites. They are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and they have the composition: 70.0%-75.0% by weight of silica Si0 2 ;
  • the perlite is ground, dried and then graded in a first step.
  • the product obtained known as perlite ore, is gray in color and has a size of the order of 100 ⁇ .
  • the perlite ore can subsequently be expanded (1000°C/2 seconds) to give more or less white particles.
  • the expanded perlite particles which can be used in the context of the invention can be obtained by the expansion process described in the patent US 5 002 698.
  • the expanded perlite particles used are ground; in this case, they are referred to as Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP). They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D 50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 ⁇ and preferably from 0.5 to 40 ⁇ .
  • EMP Expanded Milled Perlite
  • the perlite particles used exhibit a loose bulk density at 25°C ranging from 10 to 400 kg/m 3 (standard DIN 53468) and preferably from 10 to 300 kg/m 3 .
  • the mattifying fillers other than clays can be present in amounts ranging from 0% to 25% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferably still from 0.5% to 8% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • ascorbic acid and its derivatives such as 5,6-di-O- dimethylsilylascorbate (sold by Exsymol under the reference PRO-AA), the potassium salt of D,L-a-tocopheryl 2-L-ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Senju Pharmaceutical under the reference Sepivital EPC), magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate (sold by Roche under the reference Stay-C 50); phloroglucinol; enzymes; and their mixtures.
  • use is made, among oxidation-sensitive hydrophilic active agents, of ascorbic acid.
  • the ascorbic acid can be of any nature. Thus, it can be of natural origin in the powder form or in the form of orange juice, preferably orange juice concentrate. It can also be of synthetic origin, preferably in the powder form.
  • moisturizer agents such as protein hydrolyzates and polyols, such as glycerol, glycols, such as polyethylene glycols; natural extracts; antiinflammatories; procyanidol oligomers; vitamins, such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), the derivatives of these vitamins (in particular esters) and their mixtures; urea; caffeine; depigmenting agents, such as kojic acid, hydroquinone and caffeic acid; salicylic acid and its derivatives; o hydroxy acids, such as lactic acid and glycolic acid and their derivatives; retinoids, such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; hydrocortisone; melatonin; extracts of algae, of fungi, of plants, of yeasts or of bacteria; steroids; antibacterial active agents
  • moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolyzates and polyols, such as glycerol
  • the pillability of the compositions is evaluated according to the following protocol.
  • the products are evaluated by a beautician on half the face, on six models, having normal to combination skin, the application side being randomized. For each product,
  • 0.30 ml is applied by the beautician, using a standardized application action.
  • the beautician evaluates the pillability of the product during application, and then after application and drying for two minutes, using a specific pilling action (to and fro movements with the back of the hand over the cheek).
  • Pilling is defined as the presence of particles, it being possible for the amount of particles to be “Low”, “Medium” or “High”.
  • Example I Moisturizing cream (in the direct emulsion form)
  • Phase A is heated with stirring and then phase B is added with stirring to emulsify. Cooling is carried out down to AT and phases C and D are added.
  • Composition B according to the invention exhibits a lower pillability than the comparative composition A not comprising silica aerogel particles.
  • Example II Anti-aging regenerating cream in the W/O emulsion form
  • Phases A, B and C are prepared by homogenization under hot conditions (70°C) with stirring. Emulsification is carried out by dispersion of phase B in phase A with stirring of Moritz type, followed by addition of phase C. Cooling is carried out with slow stirring and addition of the fillers (phase D) at ambient temperature.
  • Composition D according to the invention exhibits a lower pillability than the comparative composition C not comprising silica aerogel particles.
  • Example III Mattifying moisturizing cream for greasy skin
  • Phase A and phase B are homogenized with stirring under hot conditions and then emulsification is carried out with stirring by pouring phase A into phase B. Cooling is carried out down to 40°C and then the aerogel (phase C) is added. Phase D is then added at ambient temperature.
  • Composition F according to the invention exhibits a lower pillability than the comparative composition E not comprising silica aerogel particles.
  • Phases A and B are homogenized at 70°C and emulsification is carried out by dispersion of phase A in phase B with stirring. Phase C is added at 60°C and then phase D is added at 25°C.
  • Composition H according to the invention exhibits a lower pillability than the comparative composition G not comprising silica aerogel particles.

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US20190328627A1 (en) * 2018-04-30 2019-10-31 L'oréal Cosmetic system containing an applicator and a gel composition
WO2022093642A1 (en) * 2020-10-29 2022-05-05 L'oreal Makeup composition
FR3117342A1 (fr) * 2020-12-10 2022-06-17 L'oreal Composition de maquillage
US11766389B2 (en) 2020-10-29 2023-09-26 L'oreal Makeup composition

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FR3060379B1 (fr) * 2016-12-19 2019-07-05 L'oreal Composition comprenant un polymere d'amps, de la montmorillonite, de la silice et du kaolin
FR3075051B1 (fr) * 2017-12-15 2019-11-08 L'oreal Emulsion inverse comprenant de l’aerogel de silice, un alkylpolyglycoside, et un alcool gras dont la chaine grasse est differente de celle de l’alkylpolyglycoside
FR3075605B1 (fr) * 2017-12-22 2020-05-22 L'oreal Utilisation d’une composition comprenant au moins un melange d’un tensioactif nonionique et d’un alcool gras et au moins une charge choisie parmi les silices, les silicates et les polyamides pour matifier les matieres keratiniques.
JP7596068B2 (ja) * 2019-12-24 2024-12-09 ロレアル 球状疎水性シリカエアロゲル並びに複合シリカ粒子及び／又は中空シリカ粒子を含む化粧用組成物
FR3152394A1 (fr) * 2023-08-28 2025-03-07 L'oreal Composition cosmétique comprenant une endolysine et des particules d’aérogel de silice hydrophobe

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US20190328627A1 (en) * 2018-04-30 2019-10-31 L'oréal Cosmetic system containing an applicator and a gel composition
US11364183B2 (en) * 2018-04-30 2022-06-21 L'oréal Cosmetic system containing an applicator and a gel composition
WO2022093642A1 (en) * 2020-10-29 2022-05-05 L'oreal Makeup composition
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