WO2013049580A2 - Composition de soins personnels comprenant un système d'émulsifiant naturel ne contenant pas d'agent émulsifiant à la silicone - Google Patents

Composition de soins personnels comprenant un système d'émulsifiant naturel ne contenant pas d'agent émulsifiant à la silicone Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2013049580A2
WO2013049580A2 PCT/US2012/057933 US2012057933W WO2013049580A2 WO 2013049580 A2 WO2013049580 A2 WO 2013049580A2 US 2012057933 W US2012057933 W US 2012057933W WO 2013049580 A2 WO2013049580 A2 WO 2013049580A2
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Prior art keywords
sucrose
personal care
care composition
actives
oil
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PCT/US2012/057933
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English (en)
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WO2013049580A3 (fr
Inventor
Catherine Le PHAM
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Elc Management Llc
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Priority to JP2014533398A priority Critical patent/JP2014528414A/ja
Priority to CN201280048292.5A priority patent/CN103857377A/zh
Priority to CA2849912A priority patent/CA2849912A1/fr
Priority to AU2012315760A priority patent/AU2012315760A1/en
Priority to KR1020147011211A priority patent/KR20140069276A/ko
Priority to EP12836681.2A priority patent/EP2760420A4/fr
Publication of WO2013049580A2 publication Critical patent/WO2013049580A2/fr
Publication of WO2013049580A3 publication Critical patent/WO2013049580A3/fr

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/062—Oil-in-water emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/604—Alkylpolyglycosides; Derivatives thereof, e.g. esters
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/608—Derivatives containing from 2 to 10 oxyalkylene groups
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/86—Polyethers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/59—Mixtures
    • A61K2800/596—Mixtures of surface active compounds

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to personal care compositions comprising an oil-in-water emulsifier system.
  • the emulsifier system may achieve a low-soaping index in personal care compositions which are free of silicone emulsifiers.
  • Volatile silicones and dimethicones are widely used as carriers or diluents for personal care and cosmetic applications. They enhance spreading and lubricating properties, evaporate quickly from the skin without cooling or stinging it, and leave it feeling pleasantly dry and smooth. They lubricate spray valves and roll-on applicators, ensure stick compositions spread smoothly, and prevent soaping and whitening during application. Therefore, silicones have traditionally been used in personal care compositions to provide one or more of the aforementioned benefits.
  • the present invention relates to a personal care composition in the form of an oil-in- water emulsifier system comprising at least one sucrose fatty acid ester and at least one nonionic surfactant, said composition having a soaping index of less than about 2.
  • weight percent may be denoted as "wt.%” herein.
  • compositions and methods/processes of the present invention can comprise, consist of, and consist essentially of the essential elements and limitations of the invention described herein, as well as any of the additional or optional ingredients, components, steps, or limitations described herein.
  • oil-soluble means that the material is soluble in oil.
  • the material should be soluble at 25°C at a concentration of at least 0.1% by weight of the oil solvent, preferably at least 1%, more preferably at least 5%, most preferably at least 15%.
  • oil-insoluble means that a material is not soluble in oil. Thus, the material is not miscible with oil.
  • polymer as used herein shall include materials whether made by polymerization of one type of monomer or made by two (i.e., copolymers) or more types of monomers.
  • personal care composition refers to compositions intended for topical application to the skin or hair and specifically excludes those compositions that are directed primarily to other applications such as hard surface cleansing, fabric or laundry cleansing, and similar other applications not intended primarily for topical application to the hair or skin.
  • personal care compositions of the present invention may include but are not limited to lotions, sunless tanner, sunscreen lotions, antiperspirants, deodorants, shave creams, face creams, color cosmetics, lipstick, mascara, blush, foundation, nail polish, and the like.
  • Rinse off compositions such as shampoo, conditioning shampoo, body wash, moisturizing body wash, shower gels, skin cleansers, cleansing milks, hair and body wash, in shower body moisturizer, pet shampoo, shaving preparations and cleansing compositions used in conjunction with a disposable cleansing cloth are also suitable.
  • silicone emulsifier means a silicone based ingredient which serves the purpose of suspending or dispersing other components of a personal care composition. Silicone emulsifiers, as defined herein, specifically do not include silicone- based ingredients which act as emollients, opacifiers, particulates, and the like, which are not intended to emulsify the composition.
  • solid particle means a particle that is not a liquid or a gas.
  • composition comprises less than about 5%, preferably less than about 3%, more preferably less than about 1% and most preferably less than about 0.1% of the stated ingredient.
  • free of as used herein means that the composition comprise 0% of the stated ingredient that is the ingredient has not been added to the composition, however, these ingredients may incidentally form as a byproduct or a reaction product of the other components of the composition.
  • water-soluble means that the polymer is soluble in water in the present composition.
  • the polymer should be soluble at 25°C at a concentration of at least 0.1% by weight of the water solvent, preferably at least 1%, more preferably at least 5%, most preferably at least 15%.
  • water-insoluble means that a compound is not soluble in water in the present composition. Thus, the compound is not miscible with water.
  • the personal care composition of the present invention is an oil-in-water emulsion comprising a continuous water phase and a discontinuous oil phase. Suitable emulsions may have a wide range of viscosities, depending on the desired product form. In certain embodiments, the personal care composition may have a viscosity of from about 1,000 cps (centipoise) to about 1,000,000 cps, or from about 5,000 cps to about 500,000 cps, or from about 10,000 cps to about 200,000 cps, or from about 15,000 cps to about 75,000 cps.
  • the personal care composition has a pH of from about 3 to about 9, or from about 4 to about 7.
  • the personal care composition may comprise at least about 2% of an oil phase.
  • the personal care composition may comprise from about 2% to about 75%, or from about 5% to about 35%), or from about 10%> to about 30%>, by weight of the composition, of an oil phase.
  • the oil phase component is preferably essentially silicone-free, ie contains no more than about 10%, preferably no more than about 5% by weight of silicon-based materials. It will be understood that the oil phase may contain small levels (eg. up to about 25%, preferably 10%>) of oil phase soluble emulsifier ingredients.
  • Suitable oil phase components for use herein include, for example, optionally hydroxy- substituted C.sub.8 -C. sub.50 unsaturated fatty acids and esters thereof, C.sub.l -C. sub.24 esters of C.sub.8 -C.
  • saturated fatty acids such asisopropyl myristate, cetyl palmitate and octyldodecylmyristate (Wickenol 142), beeswax, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols such as behenyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, hydrocarbons such as mineral oils, petrolatum and squalane, fatty sorbitan esters, lanolin and lanolin derivatives, animal and vegetable triglycerides such as almond oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, oil of apricot pits, walnuts, palm nuts, pistachio nuts, sesame seeds, rapeseed, cade oil, corn oil, peach pit oil,poppyseed oil, pine oil, castor oil, soybean oil, avocado oil, safflower oil, coconut oil, hazelnut oil, olive oil, grapeseed oil, and sunflower seed oil and Ci -C 24 esters of dimer and trimer
  • the personal care composition may comprise from about 25% to about 98%, or from about 65%) to about 95%>, or from about 70%> to about 90%>, by weight of the composition, of a water phase.
  • the water phase may be comprised entirely of water.
  • the water phase may comprise components other than water (i.e., non- water components), including, but not limited to, water-soluble moisturizing agents, conditioning agents, anti-microbials, humectants, and/or other water-soluble skin care actives, to impart an increased benefit to the keratinous tissue.
  • the water phase comprises a humectant such as glycerin and/or other polyols.
  • the personal care composition may be substantially water-free.
  • the personal care composition includes an oil-in-water emulsifier system comprising at least one sucrose fatty acid ester and at least one non- ionic surfactant.
  • the sucrose fatty acid ester is preferably selected from the group
  • sucrose dilaurate sucrose distearate, sucrose hexaerucate; sucrose hexaoleate/hexapalmitate/hexastearate, sucrose hexapalmitate, sucrose laurate; sucrose myristate, sucrose oleate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose pentaerucate, sucrose polybehenate, sucrose polylaurate, sucrose polylinoleate, sucrose polyoleate, sucrose polystearate, sucrose ricinoleate, sucrose stearate, sucrose tetraisostearate, sucrose tribehenate, sucrose trilaurate, sucrose tristearate, sucrose cocoate, sucrose polycottonseedate, sucrose polypalmate, sucrose polysoyate, and mixtures thereof.
  • the sucrose fatty acid ester is sucrose stearate.
  • the nonionic surfactant is selected from the group consisting of methyl glucose sesquisterate, PPG-20 methyl glucose ether, PPG-20 methyl glucose ether distearate, PEG- 120 methyl glucose dioleate and ethoxylated methyl glucose having from about 10 to about 20 repeating ethoxy units.
  • the nonionic surfactant is methyl glucose sesquisterate.
  • the emulsifier system herein surprisingly avoids the soaping effect evidenced by other personal care formulations.
  • formulators have traditionally used silicone, or specifically, dimethicone.
  • the emulsifier system herein is further surprising in that soaping may be reduced or eliminated in formulations which are substantially free of silicone emulsifiers.
  • the low-soaping effect is assisted by achieving a ratio of sucrose fatty acid ester to nonionic surfactant of from about 1 :3 to about 3: 1. In a preferred embodiment, the ratio of sucrose fatty acid ester to nonionic surfactant is about 1 : 1.
  • the term "emulsifier system" refers to the combination of both the sucrose fatty acid ester and nonionic surfactant.
  • the emulsifier system has an HLB from about 1.5 to 13.0, preferably from about 3.4 to 13.0, more preferably 3.4 to about 9.5, more preferably 3.4 to about 8.0.
  • the emulsifier system is present at a level ranging from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.25%> to about 8%, even more preferably from about 0.5% to about 7%, still even more preferably from about 1.0% to about 5%, and still even still more preferably from about 1.5% to about 4%, by weight of the personal or cosmetic care compositions.
  • HLB hydrophile-lipophile balance
  • HLB value of a surfactant as the mol % of the hydrophilic groups divided by 5, where a completely hydrophilic molecule (with no non-polar groups) had an HLB value of 20.
  • Other examples of how to calculate HLB values are described by Davies in Interfacial Phenomena, 2nd Edition, Academic Press, London, 1963 and by Lin in J Phys. Chem. 76, 2019-2013, 1972.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise one or more active ingredients.
  • actives include sugar amines, vitamin B3 compounds, vitamins, peptides, and sunscreens.
  • compositions of the present invention may comprise a sugar amine, also known as amino sugars, and their salts, isomers, tautomers and derivatives.
  • sugar amine also known as amino sugars, and their salts, isomers, tautomers and derivatives.
  • sugar amine refers to a pure sugar amine compound or a mixture of sugar amine compounds (e.g., extracts from natural sources or mixtures of synthetic materials) of synthetic or natural origin, including its isomers, tautomers, salts, and derivatives.
  • sugar amines useful herein include glucosamine, N-acetyl glucosamine, mannosamine, N-acetyl mannosamine, galactosamine, N-acetyl galactosamine, their isomers (e.g., stereoisomers), and their salts (e.g., HC1 salt).
  • the sugar amine is glucosamine, or D-glucosamine and N-acetyl glucosamine, or N-acetyl-D-glucosamine. Additionally, combinations of two or more sugar amines may be used.
  • the composition may comprise from about 0.01% to about 15%, alternatively from about 0.1% to about 10%, and alternatively from about 0.5% to about 5%, of a sugar amine.
  • compositions of the present invention may include a vitamin B3 compound.
  • vitamin B3 compound means a compound having the formula:
  • Vitamin B3 compounds are particularly useful for regulating skin condition as described in U.S. Pat. No. 5,939,082.
  • the vitamin B3 compound is niacinamide.
  • the composition may comprise from about 0.001% to about 20%, or from about 0.1% to about 10%, or from about 0.5%) to about 7%, by weight of the composition, of a vitamin B3 compound.
  • the composition of the present invention may comprise one or more vitamins, for example, to provide antioxidant and/or other nutritional benefits to the skin.
  • vitamins means vitamins, pro-vitamins, and their salts, isomers and derivatives.
  • the vitamins may include water soluble vitamins, for example, nicotinic acid, CI -CI 8 nicotinic acid esters, and nicotinyl alcohol; B6 compounds, such as pyroxidine; and B5 compounds, such as panthenol, or "pro-B5"); and Vitamin C compounds, including ascorbyl esters of fatty acids, and ascorbic acid derivatives, for example, ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and ascorbyl sorbate; and mixtures thereof.
  • the vitamins also may include those exhibiting limited solubility in water, such as Vitamin A compounds, and all natural and/or synthetic analogs of Vitamin A, including retinoids, carotenoids, and other compounds which possess the biological activity of Vitamin A; Vitamin D compounds; Vitamin E compounds, or tocopherol, including tocopherol sorbate, tocopherol acetate, other esters of tocopherol; Vitamin K compounds; and mixtures thereof.
  • the composition may comprise from about 0.0001% to about 20%, or from about 0.01% to about 15%, or from about 0.1% to about 10%, by weight of the composition, of a vitamin.
  • compositions of the present invention may include a peptide.
  • peptide refers to peptides containing ten or fewer amino acids and their derivatives, isomers, and complexes with other species such as metal ions (e.g., copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium, and the like).
  • metal ions e.g., copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium, and the like.
  • peptide refers to both naturally occurring and synthesized peptides.
  • the peptides are di-, tri-, terra-, penta-, and hexa- peptides, their salts, isomers, derivatives, and mixtures thereof.
  • useful peptide derivatives include, but are not limited to, peptides derived from palmitoyl-lysine-threonine (pal-KT) and palmitoyl-lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine (pal-KTTKS, available in a composition known as MATRIXYL®), palmitoyl-glycine-glutamine-proline-arginine (pal- GQPR, available in a composition known as RIGIN®), these three being available from Sederma, and Cu-histidine-glycine-glycine (Cu-HGG, also known as IAMIN®).
  • a further example includes carnosine (beta-alanine-histidine).
  • Preferred peptides include PROMATRIXYL, comprising palmitoyl pentapeptide-3 and PALESTRINA, comprising palmitoyl dipeptide-7, both available from Croda Inc.
  • the composition may comprise from about 1 x 10-6% to about 20%, or from about 1 x 10-5% to about 10%, or from about 1 x 10-4%) to about 5%, by weight of the composition, of a peptide.
  • compositions of the subject invention may comprise one or more sunscreen actives.
  • sunscreen active refers to oil-soluble sunscreens, insoluble sunscreens, and water-soluble sunscreens.
  • suitable oil-soluble sunscreens are disclosed in The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association's The International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, 10th Ed., Gottschalck, T. E. and McEwen, Jr., Eds. (2004), p. 2267 and pp.
  • Suitable insoluble sunscreens include methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl-phenol, titanium dioxide, zinc cerium oxide, zinc oxide, and derivatives and mixtures thereof.
  • suitable water-soluble sunscreens include phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid (PBSA), terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, (MexorylTM SX), benzophenone-4, ben- zophenone-5, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, cinnamidopropyl-trimonium chloride, methoxycinnamido-propyl ethyldimonium chloride ether, disodium bisethylphenyl triaminotriazine stilbenedisulfonate, disodium distyrylbiphenyl disulfonate, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, methoxycinnamido-propyl hydroxysultaine, methoxycinnamido-propyl laurdimonium tosylate, PEG-25 PABA (p-aminobenzo
  • compositions of this invention may comprise a safe and effective amount of a retinoid.
  • retinoid includes all natural and/or synthetic analogs of Vitamin A or retinol-like compounds which possess the biological activity of Vitamin A in the skin as well as the geometric isomers and stereoisomers of these compounds.
  • the retinoid is preferably selected from retinol, retinol esters (e.g., C2-C22 alkyl esters of retinol, including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate), retinal, and/or retinoic acid (including all-trans retinoic acid and/or 13-cis-retinoic acid), or mixtures thereof.
  • the retinoid is retinyl propionate.
  • the composition may comprise from about 0.001% to about 10%, or from 0.01% to about 1%, or from about 0.01% to about 0.5%, by weight of the composition, of a retinoid.
  • suitable actives include, but are not limited to, oil control agents, N-acyl amino acid compounds, tanning actives, anti-acne actives, desquamation actives, anti-cellulite actives, chelating agents, skin lightening agents, flavonoids, protease inhibitors, tyrosinase inhibitors, non-vitamin antioxidants and radical scavengers, preservatives, hair growth regulators, anti-wrinkle actives, anti-atrophy actives, minerals, phytosterols and/or plant hormones, anti-inflammatory agents, antimicrobials, and antifungals.
  • Further suitable actives include caffeine; tea extracts, e.g.
  • compositions of the present invention may comprise from about 0.001% to about 40%, by weight of the composition, of one or more particulate materials.
  • suitable powders include inorganic powders (for example, iron oxides, titanium dioxides, zinc oxides, silica), organic powders, composite powders, optical brightener particles, and mixtures of any of the foregoing.
  • These particulates can, for instance, be platelet shaped, spherical, elongated or needle-shaped, or irregularly shaped; surface coated or uncoated; porous or non-porous; charged or uncharged; and can be added to the current compositions as a powder or as a pre-dispersion.
  • the particulate material is hydrophobically coated.
  • Suitable organic powders particulate materials include, but are not limited, to polymeric particles chosen from the methylsilsesquioxane resin microspheres, e.g., TospearlTM 145A, (Toshiba Silicone); microspheres of polymethylmethacrylates, e.g., MicropearlTM M 100 (Seppic); the spherical particles of crosslinked polydimethylsiloxanes, e.g., TrefilTM E 506C or TrefilTM E 505C (Dow Corning Toray Silicone); spherical particles of polyamide, e.g., nylon-12, and OrgasolTM 2002D Nat C05 (Atochem); polystyrene microspheres, e.g., Dyno Particles, sold under the name DynospheresTM, and ethylene acrylate copolymer, sold under the name FloBeadTM EA209 (Kobo); aluminum starch octenylsucc
  • the composition of the present invention further may comprise interference pigments, including hydrophobically-modified interference pigments.
  • interference pigments means thin, plate-like layered particles having two or more layers of controlled thickness. The layers have different refractive indices that yield a characteristic reflected color from the interference of typically two, but occasionally more, light reflections, from different layers of the plate-like particle.
  • interference pigments are micas layered with about 50- 300 nm films of Ti02, Fe203, silica, tin oxide, and/or Cr203 and include pearlescent pigments.
  • Interference pigments are available commercially from a wide variety of suppliers, for example, Rona (TimironTM and DichronaTM), Presperse (FlonacTM), Englehard (DuochromeTM), Kobo (SK-45-R and SK-45-G), BASF (SicopearlsTM) and Eckart (PrestigeTM).
  • the average diameter of the longest side of the individual particles of interference pigments is less than about 75 microns, and alternatively less than about 50 microns.
  • Non-limiting examples of suitable colorants include iron oxides, ferric ammonium ferrocyanide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, and chromium oxide, phthalocyanine blue and green pigment, encapsulated dyes, inorganic white pigments, for example Ti02, ZnO, or Zr02, FD&;C dyes, D&;C dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  • Inorganic Sunscreens include iron oxides, ferric ammonium ferrocyanide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, and chromium oxide, phthalocyanine blue and green pigment, encapsulated dyes, inorganic white pigments, for example Ti02, ZnO, or Zr02, FD&;C dyes, D&;C dyes, and mixtures thereof.
  • Inorganic Sunscreens include iron oxides, ferric ammonium ferrocyanide, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, and chromium oxide, phthalocyanine blue and green pigment, encapsulated dyes, in
  • composition further may comprise from about 0.001% to about 10%, and alternatively from about 0.1% to about 5%, of an inorganic and/or oil-insoluble sunscreen.
  • suitable insoluble sunscreens include methylene bis-benzotriazolyl tetramethylbutyl-phenol, titanium dioxides, zinc cerium oxides, zinc oxides, and derivatives and mixtures thereof.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise from about 2% to about 70%, and alternatively 30% to about 50% of a non-polar emollient.
  • suitable non-polar emollients include silicone oils, hydrocarbon oils, and mixtures thereof.
  • Useful non-polar emollients in the present invention include natural, synthetic, saturated, unsaturated, straight chained, branched chained, linear, cyclic, aromatic, volatile, and nonvolatile non-polar emollients, and mixtures thereof.
  • Non-limiting examples of suitable non-polar hydrocarbons oils include mineral oils and branched chain hydrocarbons (such as commercially available, for example, under the tradenames PermethylTM (Permethyl CorporationTM) and IsoparTM (ExxonTM)).
  • suitable non-polar silicone oils include linear and cyclic dimethicones. Commercially available examples of these types of silicones include the Dow Corning 200 series, Dow Corning 344, and Dow Corning 345 (all available from Dow CorningTM Corp.); and SF1202, SF1204, and the ViscasilTM series (all available from the G.E. SiliconesTM).
  • Additional non-polar silicone oils include alkyl (for example, 2 carbons to 30 carbons) and aryl (for example, phenyl or styrenyl) substituted silicones, including by not limited to phenyl methicone, phenyl dimethicone, phenyl trimethicone, diphenyl dimethicone, phenylethyl dimethicone, hexyl dimethicone, lauryl dimethicone, cetyl dimethicone, stearyl dimethicone, bis-stearyl dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.
  • Hydrophobic Components Hydrophobic Components
  • the composition of the present invention may comprise from about 2% to about 75%, or from about 5% to about 35%, or from about 10%> to about 30%>, by weight of the composition, of a hydrophobic component.
  • the hydrophobic component may be derived from animals, plants, or petroleum and may be natural or synthetic (i.e., man-made).
  • Preferred hydrophobic components are substantially water-insoluble, more preferably essentially water- insoluble.
  • Preferred hydrophobic components are those having a melting point of about 25° C. or less under about one atmosphere of pressure.
  • Non-limiting examples of suitable hydrophobic components include those selected from the group consisting of mineral oil, petrolatum, esters, hydrocarbons, straight and branched chain hydrocarbons having from about 7 to about 40 carbon atoms, C1-C30 alcohol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids and of C2-C30 dicarboxylic acids, mono-, di- and tri-glycerides of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, alkylene glycol esters of C1-C30 carboxylic acids, propoxylated and ethoxylated derivatives, C1-C30 mono- and poly-esters of sugars and related materials, organopolysiloxane oils (polyalkylsiloxanes, cyclic polyalkylsiloxanes, trimethylsiloxysilicate, dimethiconols, polyalkylaryl siloxanes), vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils, animal fats and oils, silicone elastomers, and combinations thereof. These components are provided in further detail in
  • the emulsifier system herein surprisingly avoids soaping exhibited by many personal care compositions.
  • formulators have traditionally mitigated the soaping effect by using silicone, and specifically dimethicone, to minimize the appearance of a soapy film after application of the cosmetic composition.
  • the soaping effect is measured herein via a "Soaping Index".
  • the Soaping Index is based a 5 -point scale according to the comparative examples discussed hereinafter. About 0.5g of each sample formulation is applied to a user's forearm according to typical application by a consumer. The formulation which formed the greatest amount of soapy residue by visual inspection is assigned a "5". The remaining formulations are compared visually, side-by-side, and a value is assigned on a relative basis, with "5" being about identical to the highest soapy-residue forming formulation, and a "0" being substantially free of any soapy residue.
  • the present invention relates to a method for improving or regulating keratinous tissue condition.
  • this may be accomplished by providing the personal care composition described above and applying the composition to keratinous tissue in need of treatment.
  • Conditions to be improved or regulated include increasing the luminosity or "glow" of the skin, reducing the appearance of wrinkles and coarse deep lines, fine lines, crevices, bumps, and large pores; thickening of keratinous tissue (e.g., building the epidermis and/or dermis and/or sub-dermal layers of the skin, and where applicable the keratinous layers of the nail and hair shaft, to reduce skin, hair, or nail atrophy); increasing the convolution of the dermal-epidermal border (also known as the rete ridges); preventing loss of skin or hair elasticity, for example, due to loss, damage and/or inactivation of functional skin elastin, resulting in such conditions as elastosis, sagging, loss of skin or hair recoil from deformation; reduction
  • compositions herein may be formulated according to the following steps.
  • the oil phase (including oil-soluble ingredients) components are combined and mixed with a suitable mixer (e.g., Tekmar RW20DZM) and heated with stirring to a temperature of about 70-80° C. and this temperature is maintained.
  • a suitable mixer e.g., Tekmar RW20DZM
  • the water phase (including water-soluble ingredients) components are combined and mixed with a suitable mixer and are heated with stirring to about 70-80° C. and this temperature is maintained.
  • the oil phase mixture is then added to the water phase mixture and mixed well so as to emulsify the combination.
  • the emulsifier system of the oil phase and water phase components is allowed to cool to about 60° C. and then the optional ingredients are added to the emulsion with continuous mixing.
  • the emulsion is allowed to further cool to about 40° C.
  • the resulting emulsion is then milled using a suitable mill (e.g., with a Tekmar T-25) for about 5 minutes or until the product is uniform
  • Examples I-IX are formed according to the following steps.
  • the xanthan gum and glycerin are pre-mixed in a small vessel.
  • the aloe vera gel IX organic and water are combined, with mixing.
  • the xanthan gum/glycerin pre -mix is added to the aloe vera gel IX organic and water mixture in the larger vessel and mixed until uniform.
  • the betaine and sucrose stearate are then added to the large vessel with mixing, and the vessel is heated to 80 degrees Celsius. Mixing continues in this vessel (water phase) until the contents are uniform.
  • the methyl glucose sequisterate, helianthus annuus seed oil and butyrospermum parkii are added to a separate vessel with mixing and heated until 80 degrees (oil phase). When both the water and oil phases are uniform and the temperature is at 80 degrees Celsius, the oil phase is slowly added to the water phase with mixing. This combined mixture is then homogenized for the appropriately scaled time.
  • the batch is then set to cool. When the temperature of the batch reaches 30-35 degrees Celsius, Geogard 221, Pheohydrane G and Tocobiol are added. The batch is then mixed until uniform and cools further to 30 degrees Celsius.
  • xanthan gum 6 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50
  • Glyercin 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60 1.60
  • Betaine 7 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00
  • Example I The formulation of Example I above is compared to a Comparative Samples A, B, and C, respectively.
  • the Comparative Sample C which contains no dimethicone, has a high soap index when applied to skin. As demonstrated below, increasing levels of dimethicone reduce the incidence of high soaping.
  • the Comparative Sample A achieves parity to Example I, with respect to its Soapiness Index score, when it includes 3% of dimethicone.
  • Example I is free of silicone emulsifiers.
  • Betaine 14 1.00 1.00 1.00

Abstract

La présente invention concerne une composition de soins personnels qui se présente sous forme d'une émulsion huile dans eau comprenant au moins un ester d'acide gras de saccharose et au moins un tensioactif non ionique, ladite composition présentant un indice de savonnage inférieur à environ 2. Les compositions sont appropriées aux applications de conditionnement et d'hydratation et sont en outre sensiblement dépourvues d'agents émulsifiants à la silicone.
PCT/US2012/057933 2011-09-30 2012-09-28 Composition de soins personnels comprenant un système d'émulsifiant naturel ne contenant pas d'agent émulsifiant à la silicone WO2013049580A2 (fr)

Priority Applications (6)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP2014533398A JP2014528414A (ja) 2011-09-30 2012-09-28 シリコーン系乳化剤を含まない天然乳化剤系を用いたパーソナル組成物
CN201280048292.5A CN103857377A (zh) 2011-09-30 2012-09-28 具有不含硅酮乳化剂的天然乳化剂系统的个人组合物
CA2849912A CA2849912A1 (fr) 2011-09-30 2012-09-28 Composition de soins personnels comprenant un systeme d'emulsifiant naturel ne contenant pas d'agent emulsifiant a la silicone
AU2012315760A AU2012315760A1 (en) 2011-09-30 2012-09-28 Personal compositions with silicone emulsifier-free natural emulsifier system
KR1020147011211A KR20140069276A (ko) 2011-09-30 2012-09-28 실리콘 유화제-비함유 천연 유화제계를 갖는 개인 조성물
EP12836681.2A EP2760420A4 (fr) 2011-09-30 2012-09-28 Composition de soins personnels comprenant un système d'émulsifiant naturel ne contenant pas d'agent émulsifiant à la silicone

Applications Claiming Priority (2)

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US201161541703P 2011-09-30 2011-09-30
US61/541,703 2011-09-30

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WO2013049580A2 true WO2013049580A2 (fr) 2013-04-04
WO2013049580A3 WO2013049580A3 (fr) 2013-05-23

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JP (1) JP2014528414A (fr)
KR (1) KR20140069276A (fr)
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AU (1) AU2012315760A1 (fr)
CA (1) CA2849912A1 (fr)
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EP2760419A4 (fr) * 2011-09-30 2015-07-29 Elc Man Llc Composition de soins personnels comprenant un système d'émulsifiant naturel ne contenant pas d'agent émulsifiant à la silicone
US10532010B2 (en) 2014-04-17 2020-01-14 Avon Products, Inc. Volumizing mascara compositions

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CA2980908A1 (fr) * 2015-03-26 2016-09-29 Isp Investments Llc Compositions synergiques d'acide deshydroacetique et procedes pour reduire le jaunissement dans diverses compositions d'utilisateur final
WO2017027603A1 (fr) 2015-08-10 2017-02-16 Mary Kay Inc. Compositions topiques
WO2022132519A1 (fr) * 2020-12-14 2022-06-23 The Procter & Gamble Company Compositions cosmétiques comprenant des esters de saccharose et des solvants

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EP2760419A4 (fr) * 2011-09-30 2015-07-29 Elc Man Llc Composition de soins personnels comprenant un système d'émulsifiant naturel ne contenant pas d'agent émulsifiant à la silicone
US10532010B2 (en) 2014-04-17 2020-01-14 Avon Products, Inc. Volumizing mascara compositions

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JP2014528414A (ja) 2014-10-27
EP2760420A2 (fr) 2014-08-06
WO2013049580A3 (fr) 2013-05-23
KR20140069276A (ko) 2014-06-09
CA2849912A1 (fr) 2013-04-04
AU2012315760A1 (en) 2014-05-08
EP2760420A4 (fr) 2015-08-05
CN103857377A (zh) 2014-06-11

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