WO2024083568A1 - Composition comprenant un agent de criblage organique lipophile, un agent de criblage organique hydrophile, des particules sphériques de silice poreuse, des particules sphériques de cellulose et une poudre de n-acylaminoacide - Google Patents

Composition comprenant un agent de criblage organique lipophile, un agent de criblage organique hydrophile, des particules sphériques de silice poreuse, des particules sphériques de cellulose et une poudre de n-acylaminoacide Download PDF

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WO2024083568A1
WO2024083568A1 PCT/EP2023/078028 EP2023078028W WO2024083568A1 WO 2024083568 A1 WO2024083568 A1 WO 2024083568A1 EP 2023078028 W EP2023078028 W EP 2023078028W WO 2024083568 A1 WO2024083568 A1 WO 2024083568A1
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compounds
composition
water
composition according
organic
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PCT/EP2023/078028
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Aurélie PILLOT
Frédéric Simonet
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L'oreal
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/81—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions involving only carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds
    • A61K8/8141—Compositions of homopolymers or copolymers of compounds having one or more unsaturated aliphatic radicals, each having only one carbon-to-carbon double bond, and at least one being terminated by only one carboxyl radical, or of salts, anhydrides, esters, amides, imides or nitriles thereof; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A61K8/8158—Homopolymers or copolymers of amides or imides, e.g. (meth) acrylamide; Compositions of derivatives of such polymers
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/025—Explicitly spheroidal or spherical shape
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A61K8/0279—Porous; Hollow
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
    • A61K8/25—Silicon; Compounds thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/46—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur
    • A61K8/466—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing sulfur containing sulfonic acid derivatives; Salts
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
    • A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
    • A61K8/731—Cellulose; Quaternized cellulose derivatives
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/26—Optical properties
    • A61K2800/262—Transparent; Translucent
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent, at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent, at least three fillers that are different from each other, the first of which is chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, in particular spherical microparticles of porous silica, the second of which is chosen from spherical particles of cellulose, and the third of which is chosen from N-acylamino acid powders, the total amount of fillers chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose and N-acylamino acid powders being between 1% and 4% by weight, preferably between 2% and 4% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and the (spherical particles of cellulose + N-acylamino acid powders)/(spherical particles of porous silica) weight ratio being between 0.25 and 1.
  • photoprotective compositions are already known to date for protecting keratin materials, and more particularly the skin, against the harmful effects induced by UVA and/or UVB radiation. They mostly contain a combination of several organic or inorganic UV screening agents, conveyed in an oily phase and/or in an aqueous phase as anti-UV active agent and are generally proposed in a presentation form of emulsion or gel type.
  • UV screening agents do not lend themselves to easy production of compositions having a stabilized and pleasant texture.
  • formulations with high screening power can have uncomfortable or even unpleasant sensory aspects masking the freshness and comfort of the formulations.
  • the difficulty that comes with photoprotective formulations that have a high protection factor is often that of limiting or even avoiding a strong greasy and tacky feel, and thus a lack of lightness of the textures obtained, but also a white appearance on application, thus not being invisible on the skin.
  • UV screening agents may cause destabilization problems. This instability may even occasionally cause phase separation of the emulsion and/or a loss of viscosity of the composition, making the formulation inefficient or even unusable.
  • aqueous presentation forms have already been considered.
  • these aqueous compositions containing UV screening agents can have the drawback of being tacky and thus uncomfortable, but also very fluid.
  • the aim of the invention is to develop a product with an advantageous sensory feel, in particular with a melting sensory feel and a non-greasy and non-tacky finish, allowing a high daily photoprotection.
  • the present invention is specifically targeted at meeting these needs.
  • a subject the present invention is therefore a composition, and in particular a cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising:
  • the total amount of fillers chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose and N-acylamino acid powders being between 1% and 4% by weight, preferably between 2% and 4% by weight of the total weight of the composition, and
  • the (spherical particles of cellulose + N-acylamino acid powders)/(spherical particles of porous silica) weight ratio being between 0.25 and 1.
  • a photoprotective composition of one or more hydrophilic organic UV screening agents in combination with one or more lipophilic organic UV screening agents, of at least three fillers that are different from each other, the first of which is chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, in particular spherical microparticles of porous silica, the second of which is chosen from spherical particles of cellulose, and the third of which is chosen from N-acylamino acid powders, the total amount of fillers chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose and N-acylamino acid powders being between 1% and 4% by weight, and the (spherical particles of cellulose + N-acylamino acid powders)/(spherical particles of porous silica) weight ratio being between 0.25 and 1, makes it possible to obtain a galenic formulation with a strong photoprotective power, with good cosmetic properties, especially with
  • this composition makes it possible to obtain a galenic formulation which is stabilized, having a pleasant sensoriality for daily use and a strong anti-UV protective power.
  • this photoprotective composition advantageously makes it possible to combine properties which are generally antagonistic to each other.
  • a subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above, for caring for keratin materials, in particular bodily and/or facial skin.
  • Another subject of the invention is a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for making up and/or caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin of the body and/or the face, comprising at least the application to said keratin materials, of a composition as defined previously.
  • the invention also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for limiting the darkening of the skin and/or improving the colour and/or uniformity of the complexion, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.
  • It also relates to a non-therapeutic cosmetic process for preventing and/or treating the signs of ageing of a keratin material, comprising the application, to the surface of the keratin material, of at least one composition as defined previously.
  • composition in accordance with the invention exhibits good stability.
  • This stability can be evaluated macroscopically and/or microscopically, after storage for one week, one month, or two months, at ambient temperature (25°C), at 4°C, at 45°C or at 55°C.
  • a stable composition generally maintains its comfort and its sensorial signature on application over time. More specifically, the stability of a composition can be evaluated qualitatively for example by the absence of any phase-separation phenomenon on or appearance of crystals, or quantitatively through the monitoring of the change in parameters such as the viscosity or the pH.
  • the term “ SPF ” means: the sun protection factor, which measures the level of protection against UVB radiation.
  • the value of the SPF corresponds to the ratio between the minimum time necessary to obtain sunburn with an anti-sun composition and the minimum time without product. More specifically, the term “ SPF ” is defined in the article A new substrate to measure sunscreen protection factors throughout the ultraviolet spectrum , J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., 40, 127-133 (March/June 1989).
  • SPF Stress Protection Factor
  • the plate is the material to which the anti-sun composition is applied.
  • PMMA poly(methyl methacrylate)
  • the term “ PPD ” Persistent Pigment Darkening: is intended to mean the index characterizing the protection with respect to UVA radiation.
  • the “ PPD ” measures the colour of the skin observed 2 to 4 hours after exposure to UVA radiation. This method has been adopted since 1996 by the Japan Cosmetic Industry Association (JCIA) as the official test procedure for the UVA labelling of products and is frequently used by test laboratories in Europe and the United States (Japan Cosmetic Industry Association Technical Bulletin. Measurement Standards for UVA protection efficacy. Issued November 21, 1995 and effective as of January 1, 1996).
  • JCIA Japan Cosmetic Industry Association
  • composition according to the invention is intended for topical application and therefore contains a physiologically acceptable medium.
  • physiologically acceptable medium is understood here to mean a medium which is compatible with keratin materials.
  • keratin material is understood to mean in particular the skin, scalp, keratin fibres, such as the eyelashes, eyebrows, head hair and body hair, nails, mucous membranes, such as the lips, and more particularly the skin and mucous membranes (body, face, area around the eyes, eyelids, lips, preferably body, face and lips).
  • preventing or “prevention” is intended to mean, according to the invention, reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, the signs of ageing of a keratin material.
  • organic UVA screening agent is intended to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing at least UVA rays in the wavelength range of between 320 and 400 nm; it being possible for said molecules to likewise also absorb UVB rays in the wavelength range of between 280 and 320 nm.
  • organic UVB screening agent is understood to mean any organic chemical molecule capable of absorbing exclusively UVB radiation in the range of wavelengths of between 280 and 320 nm.
  • the composition is in the form of an emulsion.
  • emulsion means any macroscopically homogeneous, kinetically stable composition comprising at least two mutually immiscible phases; one being a dispersing continuous phase and the other being dispersed in said continuous phase in the form of droplets.
  • the two phases are kinetically generally stabilized by at least one emulsifying system generally comprising at least one emulsifying surfactant.
  • emulsions of oil-in-water type termed “direct”, constituted of a continuous aqueous dispersing phase and of a non-continuous oily dispersed phase
  • emulsions of water-in-oil type termed “inverse”, constituted of a continuous oily dispersing phase and of a non-continuous aqueous dispersed phase.
  • emulsions such as water-in-oil-in-water or oil-in-water-in-oil, also exist.
  • composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent and at least one hydrophilic organic UV screening agent.
  • organic lipophilic screening agent is intended to mean any cosmetic or dermatological organic compound for screening out UV radiation, which can be fully dissolved in molecular form in a liquid fatty phase or else which can be dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in a liquid fatty phase.
  • the lipophilic organic screening agents are chosen in particular from cinnamic compounds; anthranilate compounds; salicylic compounds; dibenzoylmethane compounds; benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; ⁇ , ⁇ -diphenylacrylate compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; benzalmalonate compounds, in particular those cited in patent US 5 624 663; benzimidazole derivatives; imidazoline compounds; bis-benzazolyl compounds, as described in patents EP 669 323 and US 2 463 264; methylenebis(hydroxyphenylbenzotriazole) compounds, as described in patent applications US 5 237 071, US 5 166 355, GB 2 303 549, DE 197 26 184 and EP 893 119; benzoxazole compounds, as described in patent applications EP 0 832 642, EP 1 027 883, EP 1 300 137 and DE 101 62 844; screening polymers and screening silicones, such as those described in
  • the lipophilic organic screening agent(s) is (are) chosen from salicylic compounds, dibenzoylmethane compounds, benzylidenecamphor compounds; benzophenone compounds; triazine compounds; benzotriazole compounds; and mixtures thereof.
  • lipophilic organic photoprotective agents of those denoted below under their INCI name and/or their chemical name.
  • Cinnamic compounds are Cinnamic compounds:
  • Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate sold especially under the trade name Parsol® MCX by DSM Nutritional Products;
  • Neo Heliopan E 1000® Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate sold under the trade name Neo Heliopan E 1000® by Symrise,
  • Ethylhexyl Salicylate sold under the name Neo Heliopan® OS by Symrise,
  • Octocrylene sold in particular under the trade name Uvinul® N 539 T by BASF,
  • Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone sold under the trade name Uvinul® M 40 by BASF,
  • Drometrizole Trisiloxane produced under the name Mexoryl® XL by Noveal,
  • Methylene bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol in particular in solid form, such as the product sold under the trade name MIXXIM BB/100® by Fairmount Chemical,
  • Polyorganosiloxane comprising benzalmalonate functions such as Polysilicone-15, sold under the trade name Parsol SLX® by Hoffmann-La Roche.
  • hydrophilic organic UV screening agent is understood to mean a water-soluble organic UV screening agent or a water-dispersible organic UV screening agent.
  • water-soluble organic screening agent is understood to mean any organic screening agent capable of being completely dissolved in molecular form in an aqueous liquid phase or of being dissolved in colloidal form (for example in micellar form) in an aqueous liquid phase.
  • water-dispersible organic screening agent means any organic screening agent that is capable of forming, in a liquid aqueous phase, a homogeneous suspension of particles with a volume-average size of less than 100 microns.
  • the volume-average size is determined by laser diffraction particle size analysis.
  • the composition comprises at least one water-soluble organic UV screening agent and at least one water-dispersible organic UV screening agent.
  • benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic) acid (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) and the various salts thereof, notably described in patent applications FR-A-2528420 and FR-A-2639347.
  • Mention may notably be made of benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as that produced under the name “Mexoryl® SX” by Noveal,
  • F denotes a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or a radical NH(R 1 ) 3 + in which the radicals R 1 , which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom, a C 1 to C 4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical or a group Mn + , Mn + denoting a polyvalent metal cation in which n is equal to 2 or 3 or 4, Mn + preferably denoting a metal cation chosen from Ca 2+ , Zn 2+ , Mg 2+ , Ba 2+ , Al 3+ and Zr 4+ . It is clearly understood that the compounds of formula (I) above can give rise to the “cis-trans” isomer around one or more double bond(s) and that all the isomers come within the context of the present invention.
  • - Z represents an organic residue of valency (l + n) comprising one or more double bonds placed such that it completes the system of double bonds of at least two benzazolyl groups as defined inside the square brackets so as to form a totally conjugated assembly;
  • - X’ denotes S, O or NR 6 ;
  • R 1 denotes a hydrogen atom, a C 1 to C 18 alkyl, a C 1 to C 4 alkoxy, a C 5 to C 15 aryl, a C 2 to C 18 acyloxy, or a group SO 3 Y or COOY;
  • radicals R 2 , R 3 , R 4 and R 5 which may be identical or different, denote a nitro group or a radical R 1 ;
  • R 6 denotes a hydrogen atom, a C 1 to C 4 alkyl or a C 1 to C 4 hydroxyalkyl
  • - Y denotes a hydrogen atom, Li, Na, K, NH 4 , 1/2Ca, 1/2Mg, 1/3Al or a cation resulting from the neutralization of a free acid group with an organic nitrogen base;
  • - m is 0 or 1;
  • - n is a number from 2 to 6;
  • - l is a number from 1 to 4.
  • 1,4-bis-benzimidazolyl-phenylene-3,3',5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid (INCI name: Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate) or a salt thereof, having the following structure, sold in particular under the name Neo Heliopan® AP by Symrise:
  • the water-soluble screening agent that is capable of absorbing UVA rays is benzene-1,4-bis(3-methylidene-10-camphorsulfonic acid) (INCI name: Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid) such as the product which is produced under the name Mexoryl SX by Noveal.
  • the water-soluble organic UVB screening agents that may be used according to the present invention are notably chosen from water-soluble cinnamic derivatives, such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid; water-soluble benzylidenecamphor compounds; water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds; water-soluble p-aminobenzoic (PABA) compounds; water-soluble salicylic compounds, and mixtures thereof.
  • water-soluble cinnamic derivatives such as ferulic acid or 3-methoxy-4-hydroxycinnamic acid
  • water-soluble benzylidenecamphor compounds water-soluble phenylbenzimidazole compounds
  • PABA water-soluble p-aminobenzoic
  • phenylbenzimidazole compounds such as 2-phenyl-1H-benzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid (INCI name: Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid) sold in particular under the trade name Eusolex 232 ® by Merck.
  • composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one mixed water-soluble screening agent capable of absorbing UVA and UVB rays.
  • the water-soluble UV screening agent is of sulfonic acid type, it is preferably associated with an organic base, such as an alkanolamine.
  • alkanolamine means a C 2 -C 10 compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function and at least one alcohol, generally primary alcohol, function.
  • suitable alkanolamines mention may be made of 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-1,3-propanediol (INCI name: Tromethamine) and triethanolamine.
  • 1,1'-(1,4-Piperazinediyl)bis[1-[2-[4-(diethylamino)-2-hydroxybenzoyl]phenyl]methanone] (CAS 919803-06-8), as described in application WO 2007/071584; this compound advantageously being used in micronized form (volume-average size of 0.02 to 2 ⁇ m), which may be obtained, for example, according to the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893 119, and in particular in the form of an aqueous dispersion.
  • aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume-average particle size ranging from 0.01 to 5 ⁇ m, more preferentially from 0.01 to 2 ⁇ m, and more particularly from 0.020 to 2 ⁇ m, with at least one alkylpolyglycoside surfactant having the structure C n H 2n+1 O(C 6 H 10 O 5 ) x H in which n is an integer from 8 to 16 and x is the average degree of polymerization of the unit (C 6 H 10 O 5 ) and ranges from 1.4 to 1.6, such as the aqueous dispersions described in patent GB-A-2 303 549, in particular the product sold under the trade name Tinosorb® M by BASF, or
  • aqueous dispersion of micronized particles having a volume-average particle size ranging from 0.02 to 2 ⁇ m, more preferentially from 0.01 to 1.5 ⁇ m, and more particularly from 0.02 to 1 ⁇ m, in the presence of at least one mono(C 8 -C 20 )alkyl ester of polyglycerol having a degree of glycerol polymerization of at least 5, such as the aqueous dispersions described in application WO2009/063392, in particular the product sold under the name Tinosorb WPGL by BASF,
  • naphthalenyl groups or polyphenyl groups used in micronized form which can be obtained, for example, by the micronization process described in applications GB-A-2 303 549 and EP-A-893119, and in particular in aqueous dispersion form, in particular 2,4,6-tris(biphenyl)triazine and 2,4,6-tris(ter-phenyl)triazine sold under the name Tinosorb® A2B by BASF and which is included in patent applications WO06/035000, WO06/034982, WO06/034991, WO06/035007, WO2006/034992, WO2006/034985,
  • the amount of water-dispersible organic UV screening agents is less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition comprises at least one water-dispersible organic UV screening agent in an amount of less than or equal to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the composition is free of water-dispersible organic UV screening agents.
  • the term “free of water-dispersible organic UV screening agents” is understood to mean an amount of water-dispersible organic UV screening agents of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferentially less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the weight ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and the lipophilic organic UV screening agents is greater than 0.3.
  • the weight ratio between the hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and the lipophilic organic UV screening agents is between 0.35 and 1.
  • compositions comprise at least one inorganic UV screening agent.
  • the inorganic UV screening agents which can be used in accordance with the present invention are metal oxide pigments. More preferentially, the inorganic UV screening agents of the invention are metal oxide particles having an average elementary particle size of less than or equal to 0.5 ⁇ m, more preferentially of between 0.005 and 0.5 ⁇ m, even more preferentially of between 0.01 and 0.2 ⁇ m, even better still between 0.01 and 0.1 ⁇ m and more particularly between 0.015 and 0.05 ⁇ m. They are in particular described in annex VI, updated on 22 September 2021, of EU regulation number 1223/2009 regarding cosmetic products, but are not limited to this list.
  • They can be chosen in particular from titanium oxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, zirconium oxide, cerium oxide or mixtures thereof.
  • Such coated or non-coated metal oxide pigments are described in particular in patent application EP-A-0 518 773.
  • commercial pigments mention may be made of the products sold by Croda, Tayca and Merck.
  • the metal oxide pigments may be coated or uncoated.
  • the coated pigments are pigments which have undergone one or more surface treatments of chemical, electronic, mechanochemical and/or mechanical nature with compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
  • compounds such as amino acids, beeswax, fatty acids, fatty alcohols, anionic surfactants, lecithins, sodium, potassium, zinc, iron or aluminium salts of fatty acids, metal alkoxides (of titanium or aluminium), polyethylene, silicones, proteins (collagen, elastin), alkanolamines, silicon oxides, metal oxides or sodium hexametaphosphate.
  • coated pigments are more particularly titanium oxides coated:
  • silica hydrate such as the product MT-100WP from Tayca
  • silica and alumina such as the products MT-500SA® and MT-100SA® from Tayca and TioveilTM AQ-N from Croda,
  • alumina and aluminium stearate such as the products MT-100TV®, MT-100Z ® and MT-01 ® from Tayca, the product SolaveilTM CT100 from Croda and the product Eusolex T-AVO ® from Merck,
  • TiO 2 pigments doped with at least one transition metal such as iron, zinc or manganese and more particularly manganese are in the form of an oily dispersion.
  • the oil present in the oily dispersion is preferably chosen from triglycerides including those of capric/caprylic acids.
  • the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles may also comprise one or more dispersants, for instance a sorbitan ester, such as sorbitan isostearate, or a polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid ester of glycerol, for instance Tri-PPG-3 myristyl ether citrate and polyglyceryl-3 polyricinoleate.
  • the oily dispersion of titanium oxide particles comprises at least one dispersant chosen from polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters of glycerol.
  • the uncoated titanium oxide pigments are for example sold by Tayca under the trade names MT-500B or MT-600B® or by Evonik under the name Degussa P 25.
  • the uncoated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
  • NanoArc® Zinc Oxide sold under the name NanoArc® Zinc Oxide by Nanophase Technologies.
  • coated zinc oxide pigments are, for example:
  • the uncoated cerium oxide pigments may be, for example, those sold under the name Rhodigard® W185 by Solvay.
  • composition in accordance with the invention comprises inorganic UV screening agents
  • coated or uncoated titanium oxide pigments are particularly preferred.
  • the composition is free of inorganic screening agents.
  • the expression “free of inorganic UV screening agents” is understood to mean an amount of inorganic UV screening agents of less than 2% by weight, preferably less than 1% by weight, and even more preferentially less than 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of hydrophilic organic UV screening agents in the composition is greater than or equal to 4% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of hydrophilic organic UV screening agents is between 4% and 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of hydrophilic organic UV screening agents in the composition is greater than or equal to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of hydrophilic organic UV screening agents is between 5% and 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the total amount of UV screening agents present in the composition is greater than or equal to 15% by weight of the total weight of the composition. According to one preferred embodiment, the total amount of UV screening agents present in the composition is between 15% and 35% by weight, preferably between 18% and 25% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • total amount of UV screening agents means the sum of the concentrations of each of the UV screening agents present in the composition, in particular lipophilic organic UV screening agents, hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and inorganic UV screening agents.
  • the composition comprises at least one filler chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, in particular spherical microparticles of porous silica, at least one filler chosen from spherical particles of cellulose, and at least one filler chosen from N-acylamino acid powders.
  • the total amount of fillers chosen from spherical particles of porous silica, spherical particles of cellulose and N-acylamino acid powders is between 1% and 4% by weight, preferably between 2% and 4% by weight of the total weight of the composition.
  • the (spherical particles of cellulose + N-acylamino acid powders)/(spherical particles of porous silica) weight ratio is between 0.25 and 1.
  • filler should be understood as meaning colourless or white and mineral or synthetic particles of any shape which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, whatever the temperature at which the composition is produced.
  • the fillers used in the present invention may be characterized by their specific surface area per unit mass or per unit volume, their size expressed as the volume-mean diameter D(4,3), their non-tapped density and/or their oil-absorbing capacity.
  • the specific surface per unit of weight can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method, known as the BET (Brunauer-Emmett-Teller) method, described in The Journal of the American Chemical Society , Vol. 60, page 309, February 1938, and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (Annex D).
  • BET Brunauer-Emmett-Teller
  • the BET specific surface area corresponds to the total specific surface area of the particles under consideration.
  • S V S W x ⁇ , where ⁇ is the tamped density, expressed in g/cm 3 , and S W is the specific surface per unit of weight, expressed in m 2 /g, as defined above.
  • this density can be assessed according to the following protocol, known as the tapped density protocol:
  • the oil-absorbing capacity measured at the wet point and denoted Wp, corresponds to the amount of oil which it is necessary to add to 100 g of particles in order to obtain a homogeneous paste.
  • the oil uptake corresponds to the ratio Vs/m.
  • the sizes of the fillers may be measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyser such as the MasterSizer 2000 machine from Malvern.
  • the data are processed on the basis of the Mie scattering theory.
  • This theory which is exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine, in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter.
  • This theory is in particular described in the publication by Van de Hulst, H.C., Light Scattering by Small Particles, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.
  • the fillers that may be used in the present invention have an oil-absorbing capacity of from 0.25 g/g to 3.5 g/g, preferably from 0.93 g/g to 2.5 g/g, or even from 1.25 g/g to 2.5 g/g.
  • the fillers that may be used in the present invention have a size, expressed as the volume-mean diameter D(4,3), ranging from 0.1 ⁇ m to 40 ⁇ m, preferably from 0.5 ⁇ m to 20 ⁇ m and even more preferentially from 1 ⁇ m to 16 ⁇ m.
  • the fillers used in the present invention have a non-tapped density ranging from 0.2 g/cm 3 to 2.2 g/cm 3 .
  • they have a specific surface area ranging from 30 m 2 /g to 1000 m 2 /g and more particularly from 150 m 2 /g to 800 m 2 /g.
  • the term “spherical particles” means particles in the form or substantially in the form of a sphere, which are insoluble in the medium of the composition according to the invention, even at the melting point of the medium (about 100°C).
  • the spherical porous silica particles are microparticles.
  • they Preferably, they have a size, expressed as the volume-mean diameter D(4,3), ranging from 0.5 to 30 ⁇ m, more particularly from 1 to 20 ⁇ m and preferentially from 1 to 16 ⁇ m.
  • silica microbeads of the following commercial products: Silica Beads SB-150, SB-300 or SB 700, preferentially SB 300 from Miyoshi Kasei; the Sunsphere range from Asahi Glass AGC Si-Tech, especially Sunsphere H-51 or Sunsphere 12L, Sunsphere H-201, H-52 and H-53; Sunsil 130 from Sunjin; Spherica P-1500 from Ikeda Corporation; Sylosphere from Fuji Silysia; the Silica Pearl and Satinier ranges from JGC Catalysts and Chemicals, more particularly Satinier M13 and M16, the silicas MSS-500 from Kobo, and more particularly MSS-500-20N, and also Silica Shells from Kobo.
  • Silica Beads SB-150, SB-300 or SB 700 preferentially SB 300 from Miyoshi Kasei
  • the Sunsphere range from Asahi Glass AGC Si-Tech, especially Sunsphere H-51 or Sunsphere 12L, Sunsphere H-201
  • the spherical cellulose particles which can be used in the context of the invention are microparticles.
  • they have a size, expressed as the volume-mean diameter D(4,3), ranging from 0.1 to 35 ⁇ m, preferably from 1 to 20 ⁇ m and more particularly from 4 to 15 ⁇ m.
  • spherical cellulose microparticles examples include the solid cellulose beads sold under the names Cellulobeads D-10, Cellulobeads D-5 and Cellulobeads USF by Daito Kasei Kogyo.
  • the N-acylamino acids can comprise an acyl group having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group.
  • the amino acid can, for example, be lysine, glutamic acid or alanine, preferably lysine.
  • the N-acylamino acid(s) comprise(s) an acyl group having from 10 to 14 carbon atoms. Preferably, it is a lauroyl group.
  • the N-acylamino acid powder may be a lauroyllysine powder such as the product sold under the name Amihope LL by Ajinomoto or the product sold under the name Corum 5105 S by Corum.
  • the fillers chosen from spherical porous silica particles, spherical cellulose particles and powders of an N-acylamino acid have a heterogeneous particle size, i.e. a large size distribution for a given size expressed as the volume-mean diameter.
  • composition in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one additional filler other than the spherical porous silica particles, the spherical cellulose particles and the powders of an N-acylamino acid.
  • composition according to the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic copolymer comprising at least one acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®).
  • AMPS® acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
  • copolymer is understood to mean, for the purposes of the invention, a polymer comprising at least two distinct monomer units.
  • hydrophilic polymer is understood to mean, for the purposes of the invention, a water-soluble or water-dispersible polymer.
  • water-soluble or water-dispersible means polymers which, when introduced into an aqueous phase at 25°C, at a weight concentration equal to 1%, make it possible to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous and transparent solution, i.e. a solution with a maximum light transmittance value, at a wavelength equal to 500 nm, through a sample 1 cm thick, of at least 60% and preferably of at least 70%.
  • the composition according to the invention comprises at least one crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymer comprising at least the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid monomer (AMPS®), in free form or in a form partially or totally neutralized with a mineral base (sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base, such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, such as arginine and lysine, and also a mixture of these compounds.
  • a mineral base sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia
  • organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine, basic amino acids, such as arginine and lysine, and also a mixture of these compounds.
  • They are preferably totally or almost totally neutralized, i.e. at least 90% neutralized.
  • the AMPS® copolymers according to the invention may be crosslinked or non-crosslinked.
  • crosslinked polymer is intended to mean a nonlinear polymer which is in the form of a three-dimensional network that is insoluble in water but swellable in water, leading to the production of a chemical gel.
  • the crosslinking agents can be chosen from the polyolefinically unsaturated compounds commonly used for the crosslinking of polymers obtained by radical polymerization.
  • the crosslinking agent is chosen from methylenebisacrylamide, allyl methacrylate and trimethylolpropane triacrylate (TMPTA).
  • TMPTA trimethylolpropane triacrylate
  • the degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 mol% to 10 mol% and more particularly from 0.2 mol% to 2 mol% relative to the polymer.
  • the monomers derived from 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid preferably correspond to the general formula below:
  • X + denotes a cationic counterion, in particular an alkali metal or alkaline-earth metal, or an ammonium, preferably ammonium, or a mixture of cations
  • R 1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical such as methyl, and R 1 preferably denotes a hydrogen atom.
  • the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention is (are) partially or completely salified in the form of the ammonium salt.
  • the 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid monomer(s) according to the invention is (are) completely salified, preferably in the form of the ammonium salt.
  • the AMPS® polymers that are suitable for use in the invention are water-soluble or water-dispersible.
  • they are copolymers obtained from AMPS® and from one or more hydrophilic or hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers and, if they are crosslinked, one or more crosslinking agents as defined above.
  • said copolymers include hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers, these monomers may or may not comprise fatty chains.
  • the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers do not comprise a fatty chain and are preferably present in small amounts.
  • the hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomers comprise at least one fatty chain.
  • fatty chain is understood to mean any hydrocarbon-based chain comprising at least 8 carbon atoms.
  • the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® copolymers according to the invention contain water-soluble ethylenically unsaturated monomers, hydrophobic monomers or mixtures thereof.
  • the water-soluble comonomers may be ionic or non-ionic. According to one particular embodiment of the invention, the water-soluble comonomers are non-ionic.
  • ionic water-soluble comonomers examples that may be mentioned include the following compounds, and salts thereof:
  • - R 1 is chosen from H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 and -C 3 H 7 ;
  • R 2 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, substituted with at least one sulfonate (-SO 3 - ) and/or sulfate (-SO 4 - ) and/or phosphate (-PO 4 2- ) group.
  • non-ionic water-soluble comonomers mention may be made in particular of:
  • N-vinyllactams including a cyclic alkyl group containing from 4 to 9 carbon atoms, such as N-vinylpyrrolidone, N-butyrolactam and N-vinylcaprolactam,
  • - R 3 is chosen from H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 and -C 3 H 7 ;
  • - X 2 is chosen from alkyl oxides of the type -OR 4 where R 4 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine); a hydroxyl (-OH) group; ether.
  • R 4 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, optionally substituted with a halogen atom (iodine, bromine, chlorine or fluorine); a hydroxyl (-OH) group; ether.
  • hydrophobic comonomers without a fatty chain mention may be made, for example, of:
  • styrene and derivatives thereof, such as 4-butylstyrene, ⁇ -methylstyrene and vinyltoluene;
  • silicone derivatives which, after polymerization, result in silicone polymers such as methacryloxypropyltris(trimethylsiloxy)silane and silicone methacrylamides;
  • - R 4 is chosen from H, -CH 3 , -C 2 H 5 and -C 3 H 7 ;
  • R 5 is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based radical containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.
  • the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS® copolymers of the invention preferably have a molar mass ranging from 50 000 g/mol to 100 000 000 g/mol, preferably from 80 000 g/mol to 100 000 000 g/mol, and even more preferably from 100 000 g/mol to 70 000 000 g/mol.
  • AMPS 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid
  • the water-soluble or water-dispersible AMPS copolymer comprises at least one monomer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS®), at least one monomer with a hydrophobic group and at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups
  • the hydrophobic group is a branched or unbranched, and saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based fatty acid chain comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms.
  • the copolymer(s) may be crosslinked in the presence of a crosslinking agent.
  • the AMPS copolymer(s) is (are) crosslinked.
  • the AMPS® copolymer(s) is (are) crosslinked with a crosslinking agent, and even more preferentially they are crosslinked with trimethylolpropane triacrylate.
  • the AMPS® copolymer(s) can also comprise at least one monomer bearing a hydrophobic group which is preferably an ethylenically unsaturated monomer comprising at least one fatty hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms, preferentially from 6 to 22 and more particularly from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is preferably chosen from the acrylates or acrylamides of formula below:
  • R 1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical, preferably methyl
  • Y denotes O or NH
  • R 2 denotes a hydrocarbon-based radical comprising from 6 to 50 carbon atoms and more preferably from 6 to 22 carbon atoms and even more preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms
  • x denotes a number ranging from 0 to 100.
  • Y denotes an oxygen atom
  • the R 1 group represents a methyl
  • x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.
  • the group R 2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • Y denotes an oxygen atom
  • the group R 1 represents a methyl
  • the group R 2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms
  • x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.
  • the hydrophobic monomer of formula 8 is tetraethoxylated (4EO) lauryl methacrylate, corresponding to the compound of formula 8 in which the group Y denotes O, the group R 2 represents an alkyl radical comprising 12 carbon atoms and x is equal to 4.
  • the monomer with a hydrophobic group is tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.
  • the AMPS® copolymer may comprise at least one monomer of formula 8 in which x is equal to 0, with Y representing an oxygen atom, the group R 1 representing a methyl, and the group R 2 representing an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms.
  • the monomer bearing a hydrophobic group is preferably lauryl methacrylate.
  • the AMPS® copolymer comprises at least one monomer of formula 8 in which x is equal to 0, with Y preferably denoting an oxygen atom, the group R 1 representing a methyl, and the group R 2 representing an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and at least one monomer of formula 8 in which Y denotes an oxygen atom, the group R 1 represents a methyl, the group R 2 represents an alkyl radical comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, and x represents an integer between 3 and 25, and x is preferably equal to 4.
  • the AMPS® copolymer comprises, as monomers with a hydrophobic group, lauryl methacrylate and tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate.
  • the AMPS® copolymer(s) also comprise at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer, which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups, preferably corresponding to the following general formula:
  • R 1 denotes a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 linear or branched alkyl radical, preferably R 1 denotes a hydrogen atom
  • R 2 denotes a C 1 -C 4 linear or branched alkyl radical
  • R 3 denotes a C 1 -C 4 linear or branched alkyl radical, preferably R 2 and R 3 denote a methyl.
  • the ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups is chosen from (meth)acrylamides such as acrylamide, (meth)acrylic acids and the esters ((meth)acrylates) thereof, such as 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, vinylpyrrolidones, N-(C 1 -C 4 )alkylacrylamides, and N,N-di(C 1 -C 4 )alkylacrylamides such as N,N-dimethylacrylamide.
  • (meth)acrylamides such as acrylamide, (meth)acrylic acids and the esters ((meth)acrylates) thereof, such as 2-hydroxyethyl acrylate, vinylpyrrolidones, N-(C 1 -C 4 )alkylacrylamides, and N,N-di(C 1 -C 4 )alkylacrylamides such as N,N-dimethylacrylamide.
  • the ethylenically unsaturated monomer which does not comprise any hydrophobic groups is N,N-dimethylacrylamide.
  • the AMPS® copolymer is chosen from copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, preferably completely salified, of N,N-dimethylacrylamide, of tetraethoxylated lauryl methacrylate and of lauryl methacrylate, preferably crosslinked, such as, for example, the copolymer sold under the name Sepimax Zen by SEPPIC, and of the INCI name Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6.
  • the composition comprises at least one copolymer of AMPS® and of hydroxyethyl acrylate, for instance the AMPS®/hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, such as that used in the commercial product sold under the name Simulgel NS® by SEPPIC (CTFA name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (And) Squalane (And) Polysorbate 60), or such as the product sold under the name Sodium Acrylamido-2-Methylpropanesulfonate/Hydroxyethyl Acrylate Copolymer, such as the commercial product Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC (INCI name: Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer).
  • the AMPS® copolymers(s) described above may be present in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight and even more preferably from 0.5% to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one oily phase.
  • the fatty phase can be constituted by all of the fatty substances conventionally used in the cosmetics or dermatological fields; it can comprise in particular at least one oil. It can also comprise at least one pasty compound and/or at least one wax and/or at least one fatty alcohol.
  • the fatty phase also comprises the lipophilic screening agent(s) present in the composition according to the invention.
  • oil is intended to mean any fatty substance that is in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • volatile oil refers to an oil that is capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the keratin fibre in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • volatile oil(s) of the invention is (are) volatile cosmetic oils, which are liquid at ambient temperature, having a non-zero vapour pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 -3 to 300 mmHg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg) and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).
  • non-volatile oil is intended to mean an oil that remains on the skin or the keratin fibre at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours, and that notably has a vapour pressure of less than 10 -3 mmHg (0.13 Pa).
  • hydrocarbon-based oil means any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally one or more heteroatoms, in particular nitrogen and oxygen.
  • these oils can in particular contain one or more ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and/or alcohol groups.
  • silicon oil is intended to mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom and especially at least one Si-O group.
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oils which can be used according to the invention, of:
  • hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as glyceride triesters, which are generally triesters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have varied chain lengths from C 4 to C 24 , it being possible for these chains to be saturated or unsaturated and linear or branched; these oils are in particular wheat germ oil, sunflower oil, grape seed oil, sesame oil, maize oil, apricot oil, castor oil, shea oil, avocado oil, olive oil, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, hazelnut oil, macadamia oil, jojoba oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, red kuri squash oil, pumpkin oil, blackcurrant oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, candlenut oil, passionflower oil or musk rose oil; or alternatively triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids, such as
  • synthetic esters such as the oils of formula RCOOR' in which R represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid comprising from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with the proviso that R + R' ⁇ 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoate, such as the product sold under the trade name Finsolv TN® or Witconol TN® by Witco or Tegosoft TN® by Evonik Goldschmidt, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate, such as the commercial product sold under the name X-Tend 226® by ISP, isopropyl lanolate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl is
  • fatty alcohols which are liquid at ambient temperature and which have a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain comprising from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol or 2-undecylpentadecanol;
  • C 12 -C 22 higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid or linolenic acid
  • carbonates such as dicaprylyl carbonate, such as the product sold under the name Cetiol CC® by Cognis;
  • non-volatile hydrocarbon oils which can be used according to the invention, preference will be given more particularly to glyceride triesters and in particular to caprylic/capric acid triglycerides, synthetic esters and in particular diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate, dicaprylyl carbonate, isononyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate, C 12 -C 15 alkyl benzoate, 2-ethylphenyl benzoate and fatty alcohols, in particular octyldodecanol.
  • the non-volatile hydrocarbon oils are chosen from diisopropyl adipate, diisopropyl sebacate, isopropyl palmitate and dicaprylyl carbonate.
  • hydrocarbon-based oils that may be used according to the invention, mention may notably be made of hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and notably branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes, such as C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane, the oils sold under the Isopar or Permethyl trade names, branched C 8 -C 16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.
  • C 8 -C 16 alkanes such as C 8 -C 16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also known as 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane or isohexadecane
  • n-dodecane C 12
  • n-tetradecane C 14
  • Sasol n-dodecane sold by Sasol respectively under the references Parafol 12-97 and Parafol 14-97®, and also mixtures thereof.
  • volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt® by Shell, can also be used.
  • the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and mixtures thereof.
  • the non-volatile silicone oils can be chosen in particular from non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, which groups are pendent and/or at the end of the silicone chain and each have from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, or phenylated silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl(methyldiphenyl)trisiloxanes or (2-phenylethyl)trimethylsiloxysilicates.
  • PDMSs non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes
  • phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl(trimethylsiloxy)diphenylsiloxanes, diphen
  • Volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned, for example, include volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those with a viscosity ⁇ 8 centistokes (8 ⁇ 10 -6 m 2 /s) and in particular containing from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups containing from 1 to 10 carbon atoms.
  • volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.
  • Use may also be made of volatile fluoro oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • volatile fluoro oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane, nonafluoromethoxybutane, decafluoropentane, tetradecafluorohexane, dodecafluoropentane, and mixtures thereof.
  • the fatty phase according to the invention can additionally comprise other fatty substances, mixed with or dissolved in the oil.
  • Another fatty substance which can be present in the oily phase can, for example, be:
  • a pasty compound such as polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, esters of a glycerol oligomer, arachidyl propionate, fatty acid triglycerides and derivatives thereof;
  • the overall fatty phase including all the lipophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, including the lipophilic screening agents, represents from 20% to 70% by weight and preferentially from 30% to 50% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition in accordance with the invention comprises at least one aqueous phase.
  • the aqueous phase contains water and optionally other water-soluble or water-miscible organic solvents.
  • An aqueous phase which is suitable for the invention can comprise, for example, a water chosen from a natural spring water, such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.
  • a natural spring water such as water from La Roche-Posay, water from Vittel, water from Saint-Gervais Mont-Blanc or waters from Vichy, or a floral water.
  • the water-soluble or water-miscible solvents that are suitable for the invention comprise, in addition to the short-chain alcohols, as defined above, diols or polyols, such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
  • diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether, glycerol and sorbitol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the overall aqueous phase including all the hydrophilic substances of the composition capable of being dissolved in this same phase, represents from 30% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • composition of the present invention may comprise at least one cosmetic active agent.
  • moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates, polyglycerin-3; natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives of said vitamins (in particular the esters) and mixtures thereof; urea; caffeine; salicylic acid and derivatives thereof; alpha-hydroxy acids such as lactic acid or glycolic acid, and mixtures thereof; retinoids such as carotenoids and vitamin A derivatives; algal, fungal, plant, yeast and bacterial extracts; enzymes; tightening agents; agents which act on the microcirculation, and mixtures thereof.
  • moisturizing agents such as protein hydrolysates, polyglycerin-3; natural extracts; vitamins such as vitamin A (retinol), vitamin E (tocopherol), vitamin C (ascorbic acid), vitamin B5 (panthenol), vitamin B3 (niacinamide), and derivatives of
  • the composition comprises at least one moisturizing agent. It is preferably polyglycerin-3.
  • composition of the present invention can also comprise conventional cosmetic adjuvants or additives, for example fragrances, chelating agents (for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA), preserving agents (for example chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, additional thickeners (such as polysaccharides), pH adjusters (for example triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), fillers (for example aluminium starch octenylsuccinate and polymethylsilsesquioxane) and mixtures thereof.
  • fragrances for example, chelating agents (for example, tetrasodium glutamate diacetate and disodium EDTA), preserving agents (for example chlorphenesin and phenoxyethanol) and bactericides, additional thickeners (such as polysaccharides), pH adjusters (for example triethanolamine, citric acid and sodium hydroxide), fillers (for example aluminium starch octenylsuccinate and polymethyl
  • the viscosity of the compositions in accordance with the invention, at 25°C and under atmospheric pressure is less than or equal to 500 mPa.s, preferably less than or equal to 300 mPa.s.
  • the viscosity is greater than or equal to 20 mPa.s, preferably greater than or equal to 100 mPa.s.
  • the viscosity can be measured at 25°C using a Rheomat RM180® rheometer from Maple Instruments, at a rotation speed of 200 rpm with a TV No. 2 spindle, after 10 minutes. The value of the viscosity is obtained in Pa.s.
  • compositions according to the invention can be prepared according to the techniques well known to those skilled in the art. They may in particular be in the form of a simple or complex emulsion (O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W), such as a cream, a milk or a cream gel.
  • a simple or complex emulsion O/W, W/O, O/W/O or W/O/W
  • the composition is in the form of an emulsion. It may in particular be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion (direct emulsion) or in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion (invert emulsion). Preferably, the composition is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.
  • compositions in the form of oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions are of the paddle or impeller, rotor-stator and HPH type.
  • the emulsions generally may contain at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or non-ionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture.
  • the emulsifiers are appropriately chosen according to the emulsion to be obtained (W/O or O/W).
  • W/O emulsifying surfactants of alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars; or silicone surfactants, for instance dimethicone copolyols, such as the mixture of cyclomethicone and dimethicone copolyol sold under the name DC 5225 C® by Dow Corning, and alkyl dimethicone copolyols, such as lauryl methicone copolyol, sold under the name Dow Corning 5200 Formulation Aid by Dow Corning, or cetyl dimethicone copolyol, such as the product sold under the name Abil EM 90R® by Goldschmidt and the mixture of cetyl dimethicone copolyol, polyglyceryl isostearate (4 mol) and hexyl laurate sold under the name Abil WE O9® by Goldschmidt.
  • One or more coemuls of alkyl esters or
  • nonsilicone emulsifying surfactants notably alkyl esters or ethers of sorbitan, of glycerol, of polyol or of sugars.
  • Polyol alkyl esters that may in particular be mentioned include polyethylene glycol esters, for instance PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel P135® by ICI.
  • glycerol and/or sorbitan esters examples include polyglyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Isolan GI 34® by Goldschmidt; sorbitan isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 987® by ICI; sorbitan glyceryl isostearate, such as the product sold under the name Arlacel 986® by ICI, and mixtures thereof.
  • O/W emulsions for example, as non-ionic emulsifying surfactants, of polyoxyalkylenated (more particularly polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids and of glycerol such as the esters of polyethylene glycol and of stearic acid having the INCI name PEG-100 Stearate, sold under the name Myrj S100-PA-(SG) by Croda; oxyalkylenated esters of fatty acids and of sorbitan; polyoxyalkylenated (in particular polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated) esters of fatty acids, optionally in combination with an ester of a fatty acid and of glycerol, such as the PEG-100 Stearate/Glyceryl Stearate mixture sold, for example, by ICI under the name Arlacel 165; oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated) esters of fatty acids
  • anionic surfactants making it possible to produce O/W emulsions, mention may be made of surfactants chosen from amino acids modified with at least one C 8 -C 30 , preferably C 8 -C 24 , hydrocarbon-based chain, and salts thereof, in particular acyl glutamic acids (INCI name: Acyl Glutamic Acid) or a salt thereof (acyl glutamates), such as stearoyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof, in particular Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (INCI name).
  • acyl glutamic acids INCI name: Acyl Glutamic Acid
  • acyl glutamates such as stearoyl glutamic acid or a salt thereof, in particular Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (INCI name).
  • Such compounds are sold under the name Amisoft by Ajinomoto and in particular under the references Amisoft CA, Amisoft LA, Amisoft HS 11 PF, Amisoft MK-11, Amisoft LK-11 and Amisoft CK-11, or alternatively under the name Eumulgin SG by Cognis.
  • anionic surfactants making it possible to produce O/W emulsions, mention may also be made of hydrophobically modified polysaccharides, in particular inulins modified with hydrophobic chains such as alkyl carbamate groups, in particular C 8 -C 18 alkyl carbamate groups, and more particularly lauryl carbamate groups.
  • the aqueous phase of this emulsion may comprise a non-ionic vesicular dispersion prepared according to known processes (Bangham, Standish and Watkins, J. Mol. Biol., 13, 238 (1965), FR 2 315 991 and FR 2 416 008).
  • compositions according to the invention have applications in a large number of treatments, in particular cosmetic treatments, of the skin, lips and hair, including the scalp, in particular for protecting and/or caring for the skin, lips and/or hair and/or for making up the skin and/or lips.
  • compositions according to the invention as defined above in the production of products for the cosmetic treatment of the skin, lips, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows and/or scalp, in particular of care products, sun protection products and makeup products.
  • the amounts of the ingredients present in the compositions are given as % by weight of starting materials, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic properties are evaluated by 4 individuals trained in the description of care products and trained in the Playtime & Touch protocol.
  • the sensory evaluation of the care products by this panel is performed as follows: the products are packaged in jars and tested on SkinFX synthetic skin. Within one and the same session, the samples are presented to each panel member at the same time. The experts place a drop of product (0.05 ml) on the back of the hand and spread the product for 15 seconds. After an additional 15 seconds, spreading is resumed, again for 15 seconds.
  • glidance, tackiness, greasiness (amount of film-forming agent on the fingers) and shininess are evaluated after 2 minutes 45 seconds, in total.
  • compositions are evaluated macroscopically (appearance, colour, odour, pH and viscosity) and microscopically at 1 week at 55°C and at 1 month at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C.
  • the macroscopic stability is assessed with the naked eye and the microscopic stability is assessed with a white light optical microscope.
  • SPDF sun protection factor
  • the in vitro UVA protection factor (PPD) of a sun protection product against UVA radiation is calculated mathematically by in vitro spectral modelling according to the protocol ISO 24443: 2012 (Fr).
  • Each composition is applied to six rough plates of PMMA, in the form of a homogeneous and even deposit in a proportion of 1 mg/cm 2 .
  • Each composition is spread using an automated robot which makes even and uniform movements on three plates termed HD6 (moulded granular plates) and three plates termed SB6 (sandy granular plates).
  • the plate is weighed before and after spreading. Once the spreading has been done on the six plates, the latter are left to stand in Thermo-Masters in the dark at 25°C for 30 minutes.
  • the measurements are carried out by means of a UV-1000S spectrophotometer from Labsphere. Nine measurements are carried out per plate, then the measurements are analysed using an Excel spreadsheet which provides the SPF and PPD values of the composition measured.
  • Phase Composition 1 A1 Water/Aqua 30 A1 Propanediol 3 A1 Complexing agent(s) 0.3 A1 Caprylyl Glycol 0.3 A2 PEG-20 0.2 A2 Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Amisoft HS 11 from Ajinomoto) 0.3 A2 Inulin Lauryl Carbamate (Inutec SL1 from Creachem) 0.3 A3 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232 from Merck) 7 A3 Sodium Hydroxide 1.02 B1 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68 from SEPPIC) 1.4 B1 Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Neo Heliopan OS from Symrise) 5 B1 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789 from DSM Nutritional Products) 3 B1 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tino
  • Phase A is prepared in the following manner:
  • phase A1 and A2 Introduction of the starting materials of phases A1 and A2 into a beaker and heating to 65°C with magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.
  • phase A3 Introduction of the starting materials of phase A3. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature at 65°C.
  • Phase B is prepared as follows:
  • phase B1 Introduction of the starting materials of phase B1 into a beaker and heating to 75°C with magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.
  • phase A is slowly poured into phase B with rotor-stator and scraper blade stirring.
  • phase D At a temperature ⁇ 30°C, addition of phase D and of the starting materials of phase E.
  • composition 1 Tackiness 1/5 (not tacky)
  • Greasiness 1/5 (not greasy)
  • Glidance 3/5 (like bare skin)
  • Shine 3.5/5 very slightly shinier than bare skin
  • Composition 1 according to the invention has good cosmetic qualities; it is in particular non-tacky and non-greasy.
  • compositions are prepared.
  • Phase Composition 2 3 4 A1 Water/Aqua 30 30 30 A1 Propanediol 3 3 3 A1 Complexing agent(s) 0.3 0.3 0.3 A1 Caprylyl Glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 A2 PEG-20 0.2 0.2 0.2 A2 Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Amisoft HS 11 from Ajinomoto) 0.3 0.3 0.3 A2 Inulin Lauryl Carbamate (Inutec SL1 from Creachem) 0.3 0.3 0.3 A3 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232 from Merck) 7 7 7 A3 Sodium Hydroxide 1.02 1.02 1.02 B1 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68 from SEPPIC) 1.4 1.4 1.4 B1 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789 from DSM Nutritional Products) 3 3 3 B1 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxy
  • Phase Composition 5 6 A1 Water/Aqua 30 30 A1 Propanediol 3 3 A1 Complexing agent(s) 0.3 0.3 A1 Caprylyl Glycol 0.3 0.3 A2 PEG-20 0.2 0.2 A2 Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Amisoft HS 11 from Ajinomoto) 0.3 0.3 A2 Inulin Lauryl Carbamate (Inutec SL1 from Creachem) 0.3 0.3 A3 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232 from Merck) 7 7 A3 Sodium Hydroxide 1.02 1.02 B1 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68 from SEPPIC) 1.4 1.4 B1 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789 from DSM Nutritional Products) 3 3 B1 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine (Tinosorb S from BASF) 3 3
  • Phase A is prepared in the following manner:
  • phase A1 and of phase A2 Introduction of the starting materials of phase A1 and of phase A2 and heating to 65°C with magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.
  • phase A3 Introduction of the starting materials of phase A3. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature at 65°C.
  • Phase B is prepared as follows:
  • phase B1 Introduction of the starting materials of phase B1 into a beaker and heating to 75°C with magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.
  • phase A is slowly poured into phase B with rotor-stator and scraper blade stirring.
  • phase D At a temperature ⁇ 30°C, addition of phase D and of the starting materials of phase E.
  • Composition 5 Viscosity in mPa.s 254 222 pH 6.7 ⁇ 0.3 6.8 ⁇ 0.3 Stability after 1 week at 55°C Stable Stable Sensoriality Not greasy, not shiny Not greasy, not shiny
  • compositions comprise a total amount of fillers of between 1% and 4% by weight with a (spherical cellulose particles + N-acylamino acid powders)/(spherical porous silica particles) weight ratio of between 0.25 and 1 (see Compositions 2, 5 and 6), said compositions have an optimum sensoriality as regards the greasy finish and the shininess.
  • compositions are prepared.
  • Phase Composition 7 8 A1 Water/Aqua 30 30 A1 Propanediol 3 3 A1 Complexing agent(s) 0.3 0.3 A1 Caprylyl Glycol 0.3 0.3 A2 PEG-20 0.2 0.2 A2 Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Amisoft HS 11 from Ajinomoto) 0.3 0.3 A2 Inulin Lauryl Carbamate (Inutec SL1 from Creachem) 0.3 0.3 A3 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232 from Merck) 7 7 A3 Sodium Hydroxide 1.02 1.02 B1 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68 from SEPPIC) 1.4 1.4 B1 Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Neo Heliopan OS from Symrise) - 5 B1 Octocrylene (Uvinul N 539 T from BASF) - 1 B1 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethan
  • Phase Composition 9 10 A1 Water/Aqua 30 30 A1 Propanediol 3 3 A1 Complexing agent(s) 0.3 0.3 A1 Caprylyl Glycol 0.3 0.3 A2 PEG-20 0.2 0.2 A2 Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Amisoft HS 11 from Ajinomoto) 0.3 0.3 A2 Inulin Lauryl Carbamate (Inutec SL1 from Creachem) 0.3 0.3 A3 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232 from Merck) 3 8 A3 Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid (Mexoryl SX from Noveal) - 4.55 A3 Sodium Hydroxide 0.46 1.39 B1 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68 from SEPPIC) 1.4 1.4 B1 Octocrylene (Uvinul N 539 T from BASF) 7 - B1 Butyl Methoxydibenzo
  • Phase A is prepared in the following manner:
  • phase A3 Introduction of the starting materials of phase A3. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature at 65°C.
  • Phase B is prepared as follows:
  • phase B1 Introduction of the starting materials of phase B1 into a beaker and heating to 75°C with magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.
  • phase A is slowly poured into phase B with rotor-stator and scraper blade stirring.
  • phase D At a temperature ⁇ 30°C, addition of phase D and of the starting materials of phase E.
  • Composition 7 Viscosity in mPa.s 254 286 pH 7.0 ⁇ 0.3 6.7 ⁇ 0.3 Stability after 1 week at 55°C Stable Stable Sensoriality: tacky 1/5 1/5 SPF 55.6 60.6
  • Composition 9 10 Viscosity in mPa.s 270 304 pH 7.1 ⁇ 0.3 6.8 ⁇ 0.3 Stability after 1 week at 55°C Stable Stable Sensoriality: tacky 2.5/5 2.5/5 SPF 60.3 60.2
  • compositions having a weight ratio between hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and lipophilic organic UV screening agents of between 0.3 and 1 are less tacky than the compositions having a weight ratio between hydrophilic organic UV screening agents and lipophilic organic UV screening agents of less than 0.3 (cf. Composition 9) or greater than 1 (cf. Composition 10).
  • compositions are prepared.
  • Phase Composition 14 15 A1 Water/Aqua 30 30 A1 Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (Eusolex 232 from Merck) 7 7 A1 Sodium Hydroxide 1.02 1.02 A1 Propanediol 3 3 A1 Complexing agent(s) 0.3 0.3 A1 PEG-20 0.2 0.2 A2 Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate (Amisoft HS 11 from Ajinomoto) 0.3 0.3 A2 Inulin Lauryl Carbamate (Inutec SL1 from Creachem) 0.3 0.3 B1 Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Cetearyl Glucoside (Montanov 68 from SEPPIC) 1.4 1.4 B1 Ethylhexyl Salicylate (Neo Heliopan OS from Symrise) 4.5 4.5 B1 Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789 from DSM Nutritional Products) 3 3 B1 Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxypheny
  • Phase A is prepared in the following manner:
  • phase A1 Introduction of the starting materials of phase A1 and heating to 65°C with magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.
  • phase A2 Introduction of the starting materials of phase A2. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained while maintaining the temperature at 65°C.
  • Phase B is prepared as follows:
  • phase B1 Introduction of the starting materials of phase B1 into a beaker and heating to 75°C with magnetic stirring. Dispersion until a clear mixture is obtained.
  • phase A is slowly poured into phase B with rotor-stator and scraper blade stirring.
  • Composition 11 12 13 Macroscopic physicochemical characterization Fluid, smooth and shiny, off-white, fragrant Fluid, smooth and shiny, off-white, fragrant Fluid, airy and shiny, off-white, fragrant Viscosity in mPa.s 270 391 278 pH 6.8 ⁇ 0.3 7.0 ⁇ 0.3 7.1 ⁇ 0.3 Centrifugation None to report None to report None to report Microscopic stability after 1 week at 55°C Stable Stable Stable Microscopic stability after 1 month at 4°C, 25°C and 45°C Stable Stable Stable Stable
  • Composition 14 15 Macroscopic physicochemical characterization Fluid, smooth and shiny, off-white, fragrant Fluid, smooth and shiny, off-white, fragrant Viscosity in mPa.s 374 295 pH 6.8 ⁇ 0.3 6.2 ⁇ 0.3 Centrifugation None to report Creaming Microscopic stability after 1 week at 55°C Unstable – Heterogeneous emulsion with different-size globules and loose edges Unstable – Heterogeneous emulsion with different-size globules and loose edges
  • compositions comprise an AMPS copolymer, in particular Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC (cf. Composition 11), Sepimax Zen from SEPPIC (cf. Composition 12) and Sepimax C from SEPPIC (cf. Composition 13), these have a better stability over time than when the compositions comprise an AMPS homopolymer such as Hostacerin AMPS from Clariant (cf. Composition 14) or an acrylic polymer such as Carbopol 980 Polymer from Lubrizol (cf. Composition 15).
  • an AMPS copolymer in particular Sepinov EMT 10 from SEPPIC (cf. Composition 11), Sepimax Zen from SEPPIC (cf. Composition 12) and Sepimax C from SEPPIC (cf. Composition 13).

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Abstract

La présente invention concerne donc une composition, et en particulier une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique, comprenant : a) au moins un filtre UV organique lipophile ; b) au moins un filtre UV organique hydrophile ; c) au moins une charge choisie parmi des particules sphériques de silice poreuse, en particulier des micro-particules sphériques de silice poreuse ; d) au moins une charge choisie parmi les particules sphériques de cellulose ; et e) au moins une charge choisie parmi les poudres de N-acylaminoacide ; la quantité totale de charges choisies parmi les particules sphériques de silice poreuse, les particules sphériques de cellulose et les poudres de N-acylaminoacide étant comprises entre 1 % et 4 % en poids, de préférence entre 2 % et 4 % en poids du poids total de la composition, et le rapport pondéral (particules sphériques de poudres de cellulose + N-acylaminoacide)/(particules sphériques de silice poreuse) étant compris entre 0,25 et 1.
PCT/EP2023/078028 2022-10-21 2023-10-10 Composition comprenant un agent de criblage organique lipophile, un agent de criblage organique hydrophile, des particules sphériques de silice poreuse, des particules sphériques de cellulose et une poudre de n-acylaminoacide WO2024083568A1 (fr)

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FR2210965A FR3141061A1 (fr) 2022-10-21 2022-10-21 Composition comprenant un filtre organique lipophile, un filtre organique hydrophile, des particules sphériques de silice poreuse, des particules sphériques de cellulose, et une poudre d’acide aminé N-acylé

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