WO2012081132A2 - Cosmetic composition - Google Patents

Cosmetic composition Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2012081132A2
WO2012081132A2 PCT/JP2010/073475 JP2010073475W WO2012081132A2 WO 2012081132 A2 WO2012081132 A2 WO 2012081132A2 JP 2010073475 W JP2010073475 W JP 2010073475W WO 2012081132 A2 WO2012081132 A2 WO 2012081132A2
Authority
WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
cosmetic composition
composition according
particles
phase
continuous phase
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/JP2010/073475
Other languages
French (fr)
Other versions
WO2012081132A3 (en
Inventor
Makoto Kawamoto
Original Assignee
L'oreal
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by L'oreal filed Critical L'oreal
Priority to PCT/JP2010/073475 priority Critical patent/WO2012081132A2/en
Priority to JP2013527400A priority patent/JP6334167B2/en
Publication of WO2012081132A2 publication Critical patent/WO2012081132A2/en
Publication of WO2012081132A3 publication Critical patent/WO2012081132A3/en

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Classifications

    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q1/00—Make-up preparations; Body powders; Preparations for removing make-up
    • A61Q1/02—Preparations containing skin colorants, e.g. pigments
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/0241—Containing particulates characterized by their shape and/or structure
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/04—Dispersions; Emulsions
    • A61K8/06—Emulsions
    • A61K8/064—Water-in-oil emulsions, e.g. Water-in-silicone emulsions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/40—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing nitrogen
    • A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/20—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of the composition as a whole
    • A61K2800/30—Characterized by the absence of a particular group of ingredients
    • A61K2800/33—Free of surfactant
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/60—Particulates further characterized by their structure or composition
    • A61K2800/61—Surface treated
    • A61K2800/612—By organic compounds

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, in particular with creamy texture.
  • a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion may take various forms such as W/O, O/W, W/O/W and 0/W/O. In most cases, emulsifiers or surfactants are essential for stabilizing the emulsion form.
  • emulsifiers have potential problems such as stimuli on the skin and poor feeling to touch (e.g., sticky feeling).
  • WO 98/42300 discloses a Pickering emulsion comprising fine particles which-have a particle diameter of less than 200 ran and are coated with silicone and the like.
  • An objective of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition in the form of a new Pickering emulsion in particular with creamy, texture, which can comprise no or only a small amount of emulsifier (s) but with good stability.
  • a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion comprising:
  • the particles are present at the interface between the continuous phase and the dispersed phases, and
  • the composition optionally comprises at least one emulsifier in an amount of 1 wt% or less relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the continuous phase is an oily phase
  • the dispersed phase is an aqueous phase
  • amphiphilic agent (s) surface-treated with the amphiphilic agent (s) .
  • the amphiphilic agent comprises at least one hydrophobicized amino acid.
  • the hydrophobicized amino acid may be a glutamic acid derivative or a condensate of a glutamic acid derivative and an amino acid.
  • the particles may comprise at least one inorganic material.
  • the inorganic material may be metal oxide.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention satisfies the following formula:
  • A denotes a mass amount of the (a) continuous phase
  • C denotes a mass amount of the (c) particles.
  • the ratio of the mass amounts of the (a) continuous phase, (b) dispersed phases, and (c) particles may be 15-35:40-75:3-25.
  • the continuous phase may comprise at least one non polar or low polar oil .
  • the continuous phase may comprise at least one rheological agent.
  • the dispersed phases may comprise at least one water-soluble polymer.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one at least one hydrophobic filler and/or at least one hydrophobic pigment.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one surface-untreated filler and/or at least one surface-untreated pigment.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises emulsifier (s)
  • the emulsifier (s) has/have an HLB value of 10 or less.
  • the invention also concerns a cosmetic process including a step of applying on keratinic material, in particular on skin, and preferably on face skin, a composition according to the invention.
  • the inventors performed diligent research and found that a cosmetic composition in the form of so-called Pickering emulsion can be stabilized by using particles which are relatively larger than those used in conventional Pickering emulsions, and which are
  • amphiphilic agent which may preferably comprise at least one hydrophobic!zed amino acid.
  • the present invention can provide a new Pickering emulsion which can comprise no or only a small amount of surfactant (s) but can show good stability.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can maintain uniform appearance and shows no or only a small amount of stimuli on the skin.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may have better stability as compared to conventional Pickering emulsions.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can show good creamy texture.
  • the particles are present at the interface between the continuous phase and the dispersed phases, and
  • the composition optionally comprises at least one emulsifier in an amount of 1 wt% or less relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used in a cosmetic process including a step of applying on keratinic materials, in particular skin, and preferably on face skin, the composition according to the present invention.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises a continuous phase and a dispersed phase, and is in the form of a water-in-oil (W/0) or oil-in-water (0/W) emulsion. Therefore, the continuous phase is an oily phase and the dispersed phase is an aqueous phase, when the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of a /O emulsion. On the other hand, the continuous phase is an aqueous phase and the dispersed phase is an oily phase, when the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion. It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of a W/O emulsion.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises particles which have a number-average particle size of 200 nm or more.
  • the average particle size of the particles is preferably 250 nm or more, more preferably 300 nm or more, and further more preferably 350 nm or more, and is preferably ⁇ or less, more preferably 800 nm or less, and further more preferably 500 nm or less.
  • the number-average particle size- may be measured by dynamic light scattering with, for example, Nicomp Z380.
  • the particles are preferably in the form of a solid. More preferably, the particles may be powders.
  • the powders may be pigments and/or fillers .
  • the pigments that have not been surface-treated have solubility in water of less than 0.01%, for example, less than 0.0001% at 20°C, and an absorption ranging from 350 to 700 nm, and in at least one embodiment, an absorption with a maximum.
  • the pigments that have not been surface-treated which are referred to hereinbelow as “pigment”
  • organic pigment means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments.
  • the organic pigment may be chosen, for example, from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone,
  • quinacridone perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone compounds.
  • the at least one organic pigment may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanin blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525-, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865,
  • These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described, for example, in European Patent No. 1 184 426.
  • These composite pigments may be composed, for instance, of particles comprising an inorganic nucleus at least partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one binder to fix the organic pigments to the nucleus.
  • pigmentary pastes of organic pigments such as the products sold by the company Hoechst under the names:
  • Vert Cosmenyl GG Pigment Green 7 (CI 74260);
  • the at least one pigment may also be chosen from lakes .
  • the term "lake” means insolublized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
  • the inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed may include, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
  • Non-limiting examples of organic dyes include cochineal carmine and the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380) , D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61570) , D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77002) , D&C Green 3 (CI 42053) , and D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090) .
  • D&C Red 21 CI 45380
  • D&C Orange 5 CI 45 370
  • D&C Red 27 CI 45 410
  • D&C Orange 10 CI 45 425
  • D&C Red 3 CI 45 430
  • D&C Red 4 CI 15 510
  • D&C Red 33 CI 17 200
  • the at least one pigment may also be a pigment with special effects.
  • pigments with special effects means pigments that generally create a non-uniform colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vivacity, and/or a certain lightness) that changes as a function of the conditions of observation (light, temperature, observation angles, etc.). They thus contrast with white or colored pigments that afford a standard uniform opaque, semi-transparent, or transparent shade.
  • thermochromic pigments and those with a high refractive index, such as nacres and flakes.
  • pigments with special effects include, but are not limited to, nacreous pigments, for instance, white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, for example, titanium mica- with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the above-mentioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • the at least one pigment may also be chosen from pigments with an interference effect that are not fixed onto a substrate, for instance, liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker) , and holographic interference flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from
  • Pigments with special effects may also comprise fluorescent pigments, whether these are substances that are fluorescent in daylight or that produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, sold, for example, by the company Quantum Dots Corporation.
  • Pigments with special effects may also comprise fluorescent pigments, whether these are substances that are fluorescent, in daylight or that produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments and thermochromic pigments.
  • the at least one pigment may also be an inorganic pigment, in a preferred embodiment.
  • inorganic pigment means any pigment that satisfies the definition in.Ullmann's encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments.
  • inorganic pigments comprise at least one inorganic material.
  • Non-limiting examples of inorganic pigments that are useful in the present invention include metal oxides such as zirconium oxides, cerium oxides, iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and titanium dioxide.
  • the following inorganic pigments may also be used: Ta 2 0 5 , T1 3 O 5 , Ti 2 0 3 , TiO, and Zr0 2 as a mixture with Ti0 2 , Zr0 2 , Nb 2 0 5 , Ce0 2 , and ZnS.
  • the at least one pigment is an inorganic pigment.
  • the inorganic pigment is metal oxide, such as titanium oxide and/or iron oxide.
  • the at least one pigment may also be a nacreous pigment such as a white nacreous pigment, for example, mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, a colored nacreous pigment such as mica coated with titanium and with iron oxides, mica coated with titanium and, for example, with ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and with an organic pigment as defined above, and also a nacreous pigment based on bismuth oxychloride.
  • a nacreous pigment such as a white nacreous pigment, for example, mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride
  • a colored nacreous pigment such as mica coated with titanium and with iron oxides
  • mica coated with titanium and, for example, with ferric blue or chromium oxide mica coated with titanium and with an organic pigment as defined above
  • a nacreous pigment based on bismuth oxychloride such as a white nacreous pigment, for example, mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxy
  • pigments may include the Cellini pigments sold by Engelhard (Mica-Ti0 2 -lake) , Prestige sold by Eckart ⁇ (Mica-Ti0 2 ) , and Colorona sold by Merck (Mica-Ti0 2 -Fe 2 0 3 ) .
  • multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicates, and aluminum, may be useful in accordance with the present disclosure.
  • filler means a substantially uncolored compound that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and insoluble in the various ingredients of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, even when these ingredients are brought to a temperature above room temperature.
  • the at " least one filler may be chosen from mineral and organic fillers .
  • the at least one filler may be particles of any form, for example, platelet-shaped, spherical, and oblong, irrespective of their crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, and orthorhombic) .
  • Suitable fillers that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may include, but are not limited to, talc; natural- or synthetic mica; silica; kaolin; polyamides (Nylon®), poly-p-alanine and polyethylene powders;
  • tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon®) powders; lauroyllysine; starch; boron nitride; acrylic acid polymer powders; silicone resin microbeads, for instance "Tospearls®” from the company Toshiba; bismuth oxychlorides; precipitated calcium carbonate; magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate; hydroxyapatite; hollow silica microspheres such as “Silica Beads SB 700®” and “Silica Beads SB 700®” from the company Maprecos, "Sunspheres H-33®”and “Sunspheres H-51®” from the company Asahi Glass; acrylic polymer microspheres such as those made from crosslinked acrylate copolymer "Polytrap 6603 Adsorber®” from the company RP Scherrer and those made from polymethyl methacrylate "Micropearl M100®” from the company SEPPIC; polyurethane powders such as the hex
  • the above-described particles have been surface-treated with at least one amphiphilic agent, -in particular the above-described particles have been partially or fully surface-treated with at least one amphiphilic agent. It is preferable that the particles are partially treated with the amphiphilic agent (s).
  • the particles are located between the continuous phase and the dispersed phase of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, to form a Pickering emulsion.
  • the dispersed phases preferably connect with each other via the particles.
  • the amphiphilic agent can provide particles with both hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties.
  • the particles Preferably, the particles have an amphiphilic- surface.
  • the amphiphilic agent may comprise at least one compound chosen from, for example, amino acids; waxes, for example, carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and derivatives thereof, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol,
  • hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and derivatives thereof anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example, aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polysaccharides, for example, chitosan, cellulose, and derivatives thereof; polyethylenes; (meth) acrylic polymers, for example, polymethyl methacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; proteins; alkanolamines .
  • the surface treatment is such that a. surface-treated pigment conserves its intrinsic pretreatment pigmenting properties and a surface-treated filler conserves its intrinsic pretreatment filling properties.
  • the inorganic substrates such as alumina and silica- onto which organic dyes are adsorbed are not surface-treated fillers for the purposes of the present invention.
  • the particles may be surface-treated with a mixture of amphiphilic agents, and/or may be subjected to several surface treatments with amphiphilic agents.
  • the surface-treated particles may be prepared according to surface-treatment techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art, or may be commercially available in the required form.
  • the surface-treated particles are coated with an organic layer.
  • the organic layer may be deposited on the particles by evaporation of solvent (s) , chemical reaction between the molecule (s) in the amphiphilic agent (s) or creation of a covalent bond between the molecule (s) in the amphiphilic agent (s) and the particles.
  • the surface treatment may thus be performed, for example, by chemical reaction of the amphiphilic agent (s) with the surface of the particles and creation of a covalent bond between the amphiphilic agent (s) and the particles. This method is especially described in USP 4578266.
  • Particles to which the amphiphilic agent (s) covalently or ionically bond(s) may be preferably used.
  • the amphiphilic agent (s) may represent from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and more preferably 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the surface-treated particles .
  • the amphiphilic agent comprises at least one hydrophobicized amino acid.
  • the hydrophobicized amino acid may be a glutamic acid derivative or a condensate of at least one glutamic acid derivative and an amino acid.
  • the glutamic acid derivative may be N-acylated glutamic acid or a salt thereof.
  • the salt mention may be made of metal salts, ammonium salts, and onium salts of an organic alkanolamine.
  • the metal Na, K, Ba, Zn, Ca, g, Fe, Zr, Co, Al and . Ti may be used.
  • the organic alkanolamine monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol,
  • the acyl group bound to the nitrogen atom of the glutamic acid may be derived from a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, isomyristic acid, palmitic acid, isopalmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachic acid, undecylenic acid, oleic acid, myristic acid, elaidic acid, linolic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, parm oil fatty acid, beef tallow fatty acid and resin acid (abietic acid)
  • the condensate of at least one glutamic acid derivative and an amino acid may be a condensate of N-acylated glutamic acid and an amino acid such as lysine, or a salt thereof.
  • the salt mention may be made of metal salts, ammonium salts and onium salts of an organic alkanolamine as mentioned above.
  • Sodium salt is preferable.
  • the acyl group bound to the nitrogen atom of the glutamic acid may be derived from a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms as mentioned above.
  • Laurie acid is preferable.
  • sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine Pellicer L-30 marketed by Asahi Kasei Chemicals
  • amphiphilic surface-treatments of the particles may be chosen from the following treatments:
  • PEG-silicone treatment for instance the AQ surface treatment sold by LCW;
  • a lauroyllysine treatment for instance the LL surface treatment sold by LCW;
  • microcrystalline cellulose and carboxymethylcell ' ulose treatment for instance the AC surface treatment sold by Daito;
  • an acrylate copolymer treatment for instance the APD surface treatment sold by Daito;
  • triisostearate treatment for instance the ASL treatment sold by Daito.
  • Amphiphilic agent (s) can be bound to particles ionically with metal salt or hydroxide whose metal can be selected from Mg, Al, Ca, Zn, for instance, aluminum hydroxide and magnesium chloride.
  • the treatment by disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide is more preferable.
  • the at least one surface-treated pigment may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention in total amounts generally ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, for example, from 0.1% to 25% by weight, or from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the at least one surface-treated filler may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention in total amounts ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, for example, from 0.1% to 30% by weight, or from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the oily phase in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used.
  • Oil means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid), at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
  • oils those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
  • the oil may be a non-polar or low polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil; or a mixture thereof.
  • a non-polar or low polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like
  • a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil
  • hydrocarbon oils examples include linear or branched hydrocarbons such as mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin) , paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, , and the like;
  • silicone oils mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane,
  • methylphenylpolysiloxane methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like
  • cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
  • vegetable oils mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
  • animal oils mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane.
  • ester oils mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl my
  • The. oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of animal or plant origin, mineral oils, synthetic oils such as ester oils and artificial triglycerides, silicone oils and hydrocarbons, in particular aliphatic hydrocarbons, provided that they are liquid at room temperature.
  • the amount of the oil may be 5 to 90 wt%, preferably 10 to 80 wt%, more preferably 20 to 70 wt%, and further more preferably 40 to 60 wt%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • the oily phase may comprise at least one fatty alcohol. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used.
  • fatty alcohol here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic carbon chain. It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be selected from any pure, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 8 -C 30 fatty alcohols.
  • C8-C30 fatty alcohols C12-C22 fatty alcohols are, for example, used.
  • C 16 -Ci8 fatty alcohols are more preferable.
  • lauryl alcohol Mention may be made among these of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amount of the higher alcohol may be 0.0001 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • the oily phase may have a low viscosity.
  • the viscosity can be measured at 25°C with the Rheomat 180 measuring device at 200 rpm (revolutions per minute) .
  • the Rheomat 180 is equipped with a different rotor according to the viscosities, for example with a rotor 3 for the range of viscosities from 0.2 to 4 Pa.s, and with a rotor 4 for the range of viscosities greater than 2 Pa.s.
  • This viscosity is generally measured 10 minutes after the rotation of the rotor has begun.
  • the viscosity of the oily phase can range, for example, from 1 to 500 Pa.s, and preferably from 10 to 100 Pa.s.
  • the oily phase may comprise at least one rheological agent.
  • This rheological agent is capable of thickening and/or gelling the oil phase. It may be present in an amount which is effective for increasing the viscosity of this phase, particularly until a solid gel is obtained, namely a product which does not flow under its own weight.
  • the rheological agent is advantageously selected from lipophilic gelling agents, organic gellers and mixtures thereof. If the rheological agent is a solid, the particle size of the rheological agent is preferably 300 nm or less, and more preferably 100 nm or less .
  • the lipophilic gelling agent may be organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular.
  • inorganic lipophilic gelling agent mention may be. made of optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a Cm to C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
  • the hydrophobic groups may be
  • silica treated in this way are named "silica silylate” according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995) . They are sold, for example, under the names Aerosil R812® by Degussa and CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by Cabot.
  • silica treated in this way are named "silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995) . They are sold for example under the names Aerosil R972®, Aerosil R974® by Degussa and CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by Cabot.
  • the hydrophobic pyrogenic silica preferably has a particle size,which can be nanometric to micrometric, ranging for example from 5 to 200 nm approximately.
  • the polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partly or completely crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes having a three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6, KSG16 and KSG18 by Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C by Dow-Corning, Gransil SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556, SR 5CYC gel, SR D F 10 gel, SR DC 556 gel from Grant Industries, SF 1204 and JK 113 by General Electric; ethylcellulose such as those sold under the name Ethocel by Dow Chemical; polyamides such as copolymers of a C 3 6 diacid condensed with ethylene-diamine, with a number-average molecular mass of approximately 6000, such as the compounds sold by Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100, gums, especially silicone gums, such as PDMS having a viscosity >100 000
  • non-polymeric molecular organic gelling agents also dubbed organic gellers, which are compounds whose molecules are capable of establishing, between themselves, physical interactions leading to self-aggregation of the molecules with formation of a 3D macromolecular network which is responsible for the gelation of the liquid fatty phase.
  • a liquid fatty phase in the sense of the invention is a fatty phase which is liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa) and is composed of one or more fatty substances which are liquid at ambient temperature, also called oils, which are generally mutually compatible.
  • the macromolecular network may result from the formation of a network of fibrils (owing to stacking or aggregation of organic geller molecules) , which immobilizes the molecules of the liquid fatty phase .
  • the physical interactions are diverse but exclude co-crystallization. These physical interactions are, in particular, interactions such as self-complementary hydrogen interactions, n interactions between unsaturated rings, dipolar interactions, coordination bonds with organometallic derivatives, and combinations thereof.
  • each molecule of an organic geller. can establish a number of types of physical interaction with a neighbouring molecule.
  • the molecules of the organic gellers according to the invention include at least one group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds and, better still, at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen bonds, at least one aromatic ring, and better still at least two aromatic rings, at least one or more bonds with ethylenic unsaturation and/or at least one or more asymmetric carbons .
  • the groups capable of forming hydrogen bonds are preferably selected from hydroxyl, carbonyl, amine, carboxylic acid, amide, urea and benzyl groups and combinations thereof.
  • the organic geller or gellers according to the invention are soluble in the liquid fatty phase after heating to give a transparent homogeneous liquid phase. They may be solid or liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
  • the molecular organic geller or gellers which can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are, in particular, those described in the document "Specialist Surfactants", edited by D. Robb, 1997, p. 209-263, Chapter 8 by P. Terech, European applications EP-A-1068854 and EP-A-1086945 or else application WO-A-02/47031.
  • diamides having hydrocarbon chains each containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, for example 6 to 18 carbon atoms, the said chains being unsubstituted or substituted by at least one substituent selected from ester, urea and fluoro groups (see application
  • EP-A-1086945) and in particular the diamides resulting from the reaction of diaminocyclohexane, in particular diaminocyclohexane in trans form, and an acid chloride such as, for example,
  • N, ' -bis (dodecanoyl) -1, 2-diamino-c- yclohexane the amides of N-acylamino acids such as the diamides resulting from the action of an N-acylamino acid with amines containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, those described in WO-93/23008, and especially the amides of N-acylglutamic acid in which the acyl group represents a C 8 to C22 alkyl chain, such as N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutyl amide, manufactured or sold by Ajinomoto under the name GP-1, and mixtures thereof.
  • the amides of N-acylamino acids such as the diamides resulting from the action of an N-acylamino acid with amines containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, those described in WO-93/23008, and especially the amides of N-acylgluta
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain from 1 to 50 wt%, preferably 1 to 20 wt%, of a rheological agent, relative to the total weight of the oily phase.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain from 0.1 to 10 wt%, better still from 1 to 5 wt%, of a rheological agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous medium in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise water.
  • the amount of water may be 70 wt% or less, preferably 5 wt% to 60 wt%, more preferably 10 wt% to 50 wt%, and further more preferably ' 20 wt% to 50wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
  • the aqueous medium may further comprise at least one organic solvent for solubilizing the compounds which might not be sufficiently soluble in water.
  • organic solvent Two or more organic solvent (s) may be used.
  • the organic solvent is preferably water-miscible .
  • the organic solvent there may be mentioned, for example, C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; glycols and glycol ethers such as
  • 2-butoxyethanol propylene glycol, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether of diethylene glycol; and aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol; analogous products; and mixtures thereof.
  • the organic solvent may be present in an amount ranging from 1 to 40 wt%, preferably from 5 to 30 wt%, and more preferably from 10 to 30 wt%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • ethanol may preferably be contained in an amount of 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, in order to have sufficient antiseptic effects. Furthermore, if the form of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a /O emulsion, the irritation due to ethanol would be surely prevented.
  • the aqueous phase may comprise at least one water-soluble or latex polymer.
  • water-soluble polymers examples include: proteins, for instance proteins of plant origin such as wheat proteins and soybean proteins;
  • proteins of animal origin such as keratin, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins; polymers of cellulose such as hydroxyethylcellulose,
  • acrylic polymers or copolymers such as polyacrylates or
  • vinyl polymers for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of maleic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;
  • polymers of natural origin which are optionally modified, such as: gum arabics, guar gum> xanthan derivatives, karaya gum;
  • glycoaminoglycans hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof
  • shellac resin shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums and copal resins;
  • mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate
  • polysaccharides such as xanthane gum, pullulan and pectine;
  • polyaminoacids such as polyglutamic acid
  • the water soluble polymer may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10 wt%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt%, and more preferably from 1 to 2 wt%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • the amounts of the above particles, oily phase and aqueous phase in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are not limited as long as they form a Pickering emulsion.
  • A denotes a mass amount of the (a) continuous phase
  • C denotes a mass amount of the (c) particles.
  • the “mass” in the above formula may mean “weight”.
  • the stability of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be impaired.
  • the creamy texture may also be impaired by other ranges.
  • the ratio of the mass amounts of the (a) continuous phase, (b) dispersed phases, and ' (c) particles is 15-35:40-75:3-25, further more preferably 25-35:40-60:10-20.
  • the "mass” in the above may mean "weight”.
  • the stability or creamy texture of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be impaired.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises no emulsifier.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can comprise a very small amount, i.e., 1 wt% or less, preferably 0.1 wt% or less, more preferably 0.01 wt% or less, and further more preferably 0.001 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one emulsifier.
  • Two or more emulsifiers may be used.
  • the addition of the emulsifier (s) may improve the stability of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • the ' emulsifier may be selected from nonionic, cationic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants. It is preferable that emulsifier is a nonionic surfactant.
  • the HLB value of the emulsifier is 10 or less.
  • the HLB value of a mixture of two or more emulsifiers is determined by the weight average of the HLB values of the emulsifiers.
  • non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of 10 or less be selected from the group consisting of alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols or fatty acids that are polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated and have a fatty chain;
  • copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides; polyglycerolated fatty amides;
  • polyethoxylated fatty amines polyethoxylated fatty amines; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; (C6-C24) alkylpolyglycosides ;
  • N- (C6-C24) alkylglucamine derivatives N- (C6-C24) alkylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides; and
  • N- (C10-C14) acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides provided that they have an HLB value of 10 or less.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophobic filler and/or at least one hydrophobic pigment .
  • the particle size of the hydrophobic filler or pigment is preferably 200 nm or more, preferably 300 nm or more, and 10 urn or less, and preferably 5 or less.
  • the hydrophobic fillers and/or pigments may be surface-treated with at least one hydrophobicizing agent such as silicones.
  • the amount of the hydrophobic fillers and/or pigments may range from 0.1 % to 10% by weight or from 1% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one surface-untreated filler and/or at least one surface-untreated pigment.
  • the particle size of the . surface-untreated filler or pigment is preferably 200 nm or more, preferably 300 nm or more, and 10 um or less, and preferably 5 um or less.
  • the amount of the surface-untreated fillers and/or pigments may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight or from 0.1% to 2% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention. It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises no surface-untreated particles.
  • the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of other agents, known previously elsewhere in oxidation dyeing, such as various common adjuvants, for instance sequestering agents such as EDTA and etidronic acid, UV screening agents, silicones, organomodified silicones (such as with amine groups) , preserving agents, ceramides, pseudoceramides, vitamins or provitamins, for instance panthenol, opacifiers, etc.
  • agents known previously elsewhere in oxidation dyeing, such as various common adjuvants, for instance sequestering agents such as EDTA and etidronic acid, UV screening agents, silicones, organomodified silicones (such as with amine groups) , preserving agents, ceramides, pseudoceramides, vitamins or provitamins, for instance panthenol, opacifiers, etc.
  • the amount of the above other agents may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight or from 0.1% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
  • Example 1 surface treated pigments
  • Comparative Example 1 non surface treated pigments
  • liquid foundations in the form of an emulsion in the form of W/0, according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1.
  • the numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in the Tables are all based on weight percentage.
  • ASL-treated iron oxide Sodium- Dilauramidoglutamide lysine treated iron oxide (DAITO KASEI)
  • DAITO KASEI Sodium- Dilauramidoglutamide lysine treated iron oxide
  • Example 1 The stability of the emulsion according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was observed by optical microscope.
  • the emulsion according to Example 1 was uniform and had good shape of emulsion particles during the observation.
  • the shape of emulsion particles according to Comparative Example 1 was not spherical and the emulsion particles were broken in a few minutes . If uniformity was maintained, it was evaluated as "Good”, whereas if.uniformity was not maintained, it was evaluated as "Poor". The results are shown in Table 1.
  • Example 2 with different gellers and amphiphilic surface treated pigments
  • Comparative Example 2 with silicone surface treated pigments
  • the make-up bases, in the form of an emulsion, according to Examples 2 and 3, and Comparative Example 2, shown in Table 2, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 2.
  • the numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in the Tables are all based on "parts by weight”.
  • the materials in Phase A2 were mixed with a discontinous mil for 30 minutes to obtain a pigment dispersion wherein the number-average particle size around 200-300nm.
  • This dispersion was mixed with the materials in Phase Al with MORITZ at 2000rpm.
  • the materials in Phase B were put into the mixture of the materials in Phase Al and A2, mixing at 3000 rpm with MORITZ. And then, the materials in Phase C were put into this mixture to prepare a W/O emulsion.
  • Example 2 The sensory evaluation was performed for Example 2 and Comparative Example 2, and it was found that Example 2 is more creamy, less sticky and conforms to the skin better than Comparative Example 2.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion comprising: a) a continuous phase; b) a dispersed phase; and c) particles having a number-average particle size of 200 nm or more, which are surf ace- treated with at least one amphiphilic agent, wherein the particles are present at the interface between the continuous phase and the dispersed phases, and the composition optionally comprises at least one emulsifier in an amount of 1 wt% or less relative to the total weight of- the composition.

Description

DESCRIPTION
COSMETIC COMPOSITION
TECHNICAL" FIELD
The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion, in particular with creamy texture.
BACKGROUND ART
A cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion may take various forms such as W/O, O/W, W/O/W and 0/W/O. In most cases, emulsifiers or surfactants are essential for stabilizing the emulsion form.
However, emulsifiers have potential problems such as stimuli on the skin and poor feeling to touch (e.g., sticky feeling).
Pickering reported {J. Chem. Soc. 1907, 9, 2001) an emulsion stabilized with powder particles. Since then, some emulsions stabilized by powder particles and containing no or only a small amount of emulsifier (s) , which are so-called Pickering emulsions, have been proposed. For example, WO 98/42300 discloses a Pickering emulsion comprising fine particles which-have a particle diameter of less than 200 ran and are coated with silicone and the like.
However, in some cases, the stability of such a Pickering emulsion is impaired, and therefore, a new design for stabilizing a Pickering emulsion has been desired.
DISCLOSURE OF INVENTION
An objective of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition in the form of a new Pickering emulsion in particular with creamy, texture, which can comprise no or only a small amount of emulsifier (s) but with good stability.
The above objective of the present invention can be achieved by a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion comprising:
a) a continuous phase;
b) a dispersed phase; and
c) particles having a number-average particle size of 200 rati or more which are surface-treated with at least one amphiphilic agent, wherein
the particles are present at the interface between the continuous phase and the dispersed phases, and
the composition optionally comprises at least one emulsifier in an amount of 1 wt% or less relative to the total weight of the composition.
It is preferable that the continuous phase is an oily phase, and the dispersed phase is an aqueous phase.
It is preferable that the particles have been partially
surface-treated with the amphiphilic agent (s) .
It is preferable that the amphiphilic agent comprises at least one hydrophobicized amino acid. The hydrophobicized amino acid may be a glutamic acid derivative or a condensate of a glutamic acid derivative and an amino acid.
The particles may comprise at least one inorganic material. The inorganic material may be metal oxide.
It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention satisfies the following formula:
1.5<{B/ (A-C) }<8 wherein
A denotes a mass amount of the (a) continuous phase;
B denotes a mass amount of the (b) dispersed phases; and
C denotes a mass amount of the (c) particles.
In the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, the ratio of the mass amounts of the (a) continuous phase, (b) dispersed phases, and (c) particles may be 15-35:40-75:3-25.
The continuous phase may comprise at least one non polar or low polar oil .
The continuous phase may comprise at least one rheological agent.
The dispersed phases may comprise at least one water-soluble polymer.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one at least one hydrophobic filler and/or at least one hydrophobic pigment.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may further comprise at least one surface-untreated filler and/or at least one surface-untreated pigment.
If the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises emulsifier (s) , it is preferable that the emulsifier (s) has/have an HLB value of 10 or less. The invention also concerns a cosmetic process including a step of applying on keratinic material, in particular on skin, and preferably on face skin, a composition according to the invention.
BEST- MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION
The inventors performed diligent research and found that a cosmetic composition in the form of so-called Pickering emulsion can be stabilized by using particles which are relatively larger than those used in conventional Pickering emulsions, and which are
surface-treated or coated with at least one amphiphilic agent which may preferably comprise at least one hydrophobic!zed amino acid.
Thus, the present invention can provide a new Pickering emulsion which can comprise no or only a small amount of surfactant (s) but can show good stability. Thus, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can maintain uniform appearance and shows no or only a small amount of stimuli on the skin.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may have better stability as compared to conventional Pickering emulsions. In addition, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can show good creamy texture.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention is characterized by comprising:
a) a continuous phase;
b). a dispersed phase; and
c) particles having a number-average particle size of 200 nm or more, which are surface-treated with at least one amphiphilic agent, wherein
the particles are present at the interface between the continuous phase and the dispersed phases, and
the composition optionally comprises at least one emulsifier in an amount of 1 wt% or less relative to the total weight of the composition.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention can be used in a cosmetic process including a step of applying on keratinic materials, in particular skin, and preferably on face skin, the composition according to the present invention.
Hereinafter, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention will be explained in a more detailed manner.
(1) Form of Emulsion
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises a continuous phase and a dispersed phase, and is in the form of a water-in-oil (W/0) or oil-in-water (0/W) emulsion. Therefore, the continuous phase is an oily phase and the dispersed phase is an aqueous phase, when the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of a /O emulsion. On the other hand, the continuous phase is an aqueous phase and the dispersed phase is an oily phase, when the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion. It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is in the form of a W/O emulsion.
(2) Particles
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises particles which have a number-average particle size of 200 nm or more. The average particle size of the particles is preferably 250 nm or more, more preferably 300 nm or more, and further more preferably 350 nm or more, and is preferably Ιμπι or less, more preferably 800 nm or less, and further more preferably 500 nm or less. The number-average particle size- may be measured by dynamic light scattering with, for example, Nicomp Z380.
The particles are preferably in the form of a solid. More preferably, the particles may be powders. The powders may be pigments and/or fillers .
The pigments that have not been surface-treated have solubility in water of less than 0.01%, for example, less than 0.0001% at 20°C, and an absorption ranging from 350 to 700 nm, and in at least one embodiment, an absorption with a maximum.
The pigments that have not been surface-treated, which are referred to hereinbelow as "pigment" , may be an organic pigment . As used herein, the term "organic pigment" means any pigment that satisfies the definition in Ullmann's encyclopedia in the chapter on organic pigments. The organic pigment may be chosen, for example, from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone,
phthalocyanin, metal complex, isoindolinone, isoindoline,
quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, and quinophthalone compounds.
The at least one organic pigment may be chosen, for example, from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanin blue, sorghum red, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, and 74160, the yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, and 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, and 74260, the orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, and 71105, the red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525-, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, and 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives as described, for example, in French Patent No. 2 679 771.
These pigments may also be in the form of composite pigments as described, for example, in European Patent No. 1 184 426. These composite pigments may be composed, for instance, of particles comprising an inorganic nucleus at least partially coated with an organic pigment and at least one binder to fix the organic pigments to the nucleus.
Other examples may include pigmentary pastes of organic pigments such as the products sold by the company Hoechst under the names:
Jaune Cosmenyl IOG: Pigment Yellow 3 (CI 11710) ;
Jaune Cosmenyl G: Pigment Yellow 1 (CI 11680);
Orange' Cosmenyl GR: Pigment Orange 43 (CI 71105) ;
Rouge Cosmenyl R* ' : Pigment Red 4- (CI 12085) ;
Carmine Cosmenyl FB: Pigment Red 5 (CI 12490);
Violet Cosmenyl RL: Pigment Violet 23 (CI 51319);
Bleu Cosmenyl A2R: Pigment Blue 15.1 (CI 74160);
Vert Cosmenyl GG: Pigment Green 7 (CI 74260); and
Noir Cosmenyl R: Pigment Black 7 (CI 77266) .
The at least one pigment may also be chosen from lakes . As used herein, the term "lake" means insolublized dyes adsorbed onto insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.
The inorganic substrates onto which the dyes are adsorbed may include, for example, alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.
Non-limiting examples of organic dyes include cochineal carmine and the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45380) , D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61570) , D&C Yellow 10 (CI 77002) , D&C Green 3 (CI 42053) , and D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090) .
An additional non-limiting example of a lake is the product known under the following name: D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1). The at least one pigment may also be a pigment with special effects. As used herein, the term "pigments with special effects" means pigments that generally create a non-uniform colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain vivacity, and/or a certain lightness) that changes as a function of the conditions of observation (light, temperature, observation angles, etc.). They thus contrast with white or colored pigments that afford a standard uniform opaque, semi-transparent, or transparent shade.
Two types of pigment with special effects exist: those with a low refractive index, such as fluorescent, photochromic, and
thermochromic pigments, and those with a high refractive index, such as nacres and flakes.
Examples of pigments with special effects include, but are not limited to, nacreous pigments, for instance, white nacreous pigments such as mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, colored nacreous pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, for example, titanium mica- with ferric blue or with chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the above-mentioned type, and also nacreous pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.
The at least one pigment may also be chosen from pigments with an interference effect that are not fixed onto a substrate, for instance, liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker) , and holographic interference flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from
Spectratek) . Pigments with special effects may also comprise fluorescent pigments, whether these are substances that are fluorescent in daylight or that produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, sold, for example, by the company Quantum Dots Corporation.
Pigments with special effects may also comprise fluorescent pigments, whether these are substances that are fluorescent, in daylight or that produce an ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments and thermochromic pigments.
The at least one pigment may also be an inorganic pigment, in a preferred embodiment. As used herein, the term "inorganic pigment" means any pigment that satisfies the definition in.Ullmann's encyclopedia in the chapter on inorganic pigments. Preferably, inorganic pigments comprise at least one inorganic material.
Non-limiting examples of inorganic pigments that are useful in the present invention include metal oxides such as zirconium oxides, cerium oxides, iron oxides, chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue, and titanium dioxide. The following inorganic pigments may also be used: Ta205, T13O5, Ti203, TiO, and Zr02 as a mixture with Ti02, Zr02, Nb205, Ce02, and ZnS.
In a particular embodiment, the at least one pigment is an inorganic pigment. Preferably, the inorganic pigment is metal oxide, such as titanium oxide and/or iron oxide.
The at least one pigment may also be a nacreous pigment such as a white nacreous pigment, for example, mica coated with titanium or with bismuth oxychloride, a colored nacreous pigment such as mica coated with titanium and with iron oxides, mica coated with titanium and, for example, with ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica coated with titanium and with an organic pigment as defined above, and also a nacreous pigment based on bismuth oxychloride. Examples of such pigments may include the Cellini pigments sold by Engelhard (Mica-Ti02-lake) , Prestige sold by Eckart · (Mica-Ti02) , and Colorona sold by Merck (Mica-Ti02-Fe203) .
In addition to nacres on a mica support, multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicates, and aluminum, may be useful in accordance with the present disclosure.
As used herein, the term "filler" means a substantially uncolored compound that is solid at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, and insoluble in the various ingredients of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, even when these ingredients are brought to a temperature above room temperature.
The at" least one filler may be chosen from mineral and organic fillers . The at least one filler may be particles of any form, for example, platelet-shaped, spherical, and oblong, irrespective of their crystallographic form (for example lamellar, cubic, hexagonal, and orthorhombic) .
Suitable fillers that may be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may include, but are not limited to, talc; natural- or synthetic mica; silica; kaolin; polyamides (Nylon®), poly-p-alanine and polyethylene powders;
tetrafluoroethylene polymer (Teflon®) powders; lauroyllysine; starch; boron nitride; acrylic acid polymer powders; silicone resin microbeads, for instance "Tospearls®" from the company Toshiba; bismuth oxychlorides; precipitated calcium carbonate; magnesium carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate; hydroxyapatite; hollow silica microspheres such as "Silica Beads SB 700®" and "Silica Beads SB 700®" from the company Maprecos, "Sunspheres H-33®"and "Sunspheres H-51®" from the company Asahi Glass; acrylic polymer microspheres such as those made from crosslinked acrylate copolymer "Polytrap 6603 Adsorber®" from the company RP Scherrer and those made from polymethyl methacrylate "Micropearl M100®" from the company SEPPIC; polyurethane powders such as the hexamethylene diisocyanate and trimethylol hexyl lactone copolymer powder sold under the name "Plastic Powder D-400®" by the company Toshiki; glass or ceramic microcapsules; metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, for instance, from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate, lithium stearate, zinc laurate, and magnesium myristate; microcapsules of methyl acrylate or methacrylate polymers or copolymers, or alternatively, vinylidene chloride and acrylonitrile copolymers, for instance "Expancel®" from the company Expancel; elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane powders such as those sold under the name "Trefil Powder E-506C" by the company Dow Corning; and mixtures thereof.
According to the present invention, the above-described particles have been surface-treated with at least one amphiphilic agent, -in particular the above-described particles have been partially or fully surface-treated with at least one amphiphilic agent. It is preferable that the particles are partially treated with the amphiphilic agent (s). The particles are located between the continuous phase and the dispersed phase of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, to form a Pickering emulsion. The dispersed phases preferably connect with each other via the particles.
The amphiphilic agent can provide particles with both hydrophilic and hydrophobic properties. Preferably, the particles have an amphiphilic- surface.
The amphiphilic agent may comprise at least one compound chosen from, for example, amino acids; waxes, for example, carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and derivatives thereof, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol,
hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and derivatives thereof; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example, aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polysaccharides, for example, chitosan, cellulose, and derivatives thereof; polyethylenes; (meth) acrylic polymers, for example, polymethyl methacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; proteins; alkanolamines .
For the purposes of the present invention, the surface treatment is such that a. surface-treated pigment conserves its intrinsic pretreatment pigmenting properties and a surface-treated filler conserves its intrinsic pretreatment filling properties. For example, the inorganic substrates such as alumina and silica- onto which organic dyes are adsorbed are not surface-treated fillers for the purposes of the present invention.
The particles may be surface-treated with a mixture of amphiphilic agents, and/or may be subjected to several surface treatments with amphiphilic agents.
The surface-treated particles may be prepared according to surface-treatment techniques that are well known to those skilled in the art, or may be commercially available in the required form.
Preferably, the surface-treated particles are coated with an organic layer. The organic layer may be deposited on the particles by evaporation of solvent (s) , chemical reaction between the molecule (s) in the amphiphilic agent (s) or creation of a covalent bond between the molecule (s) in the amphiphilic agent (s) and the particles.
The surface treatment may thus be performed, for example, by chemical reaction of the amphiphilic agent (s) with the surface of the particles and creation of a covalent bond between the amphiphilic agent (s) and the particles. This method is especially described in USP 4578266.
Particles to which the amphiphilic agent (s) covalently or ionically bond(s) may be preferably used.
The amphiphilic agent (s) may represent from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and more preferably 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the surface-treated particles .
It is preferable that the amphiphilic agent comprises at least one hydrophobicized amino acid. The hydrophobicized amino acid may be a glutamic acid derivative or a condensate of at least one glutamic acid derivative and an amino acid.
The glutamic acid derivative may be N-acylated glutamic acid or a salt thereof. As the salt, mention may be made of metal salts, ammonium salts, and onium salts of an organic alkanolamine. As the metal, Na, K, Ba, Zn, Ca, g, Fe, Zr, Co, Al and. Ti may be used. As the organic alkanolamine, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methylpropanol,
2-amino-2-methyl-l, 3-propanediol and triisopropanolamine may be used. The acyl group bound to the nitrogen atom of the glutamic acid may be derived from a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, isomyristic acid, palmitic acid, isopalmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, arachic acid, undecylenic acid, oleic acid, myristic acid, elaidic acid, linolic acid, linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, parm oil fatty acid, beef tallow fatty acid and resin acid (abietic acid)
The condensate of at least one glutamic acid derivative and an amino acid may be a condensate of N-acylated glutamic acid and an amino acid such as lysine, or a salt thereof. As the salt, mention may be made of metal salts, ammonium salts and onium salts of an organic alkanolamine as mentioned above. Sodium salt is preferable. The acyl group bound to the nitrogen atom of the glutamic acid may be derived from a saturated or unsaturated fatty acid having 8 to 22 carbon atoms as mentioned above. Laurie acid is preferable. Thus, for example, sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine (Pellicer L-30 marketed by Asahi Kasei Chemicals) is preferable as the above condensate.
The amphiphilic surface-treatments of the particles may be chosen from the following treatments:
- a PEG-silicone treatment, for instance the AQ surface treatment sold by LCW;
- a lauroyllysine treatment, for instance the LL surface treatment sold by LCW;
- a lauroyllysine dimethicone treatment, for instance the LL/SI surface treatment sold by LCW;
- a disodium stearoyl glutamate treatment, for instance the NAI surface treatment sold by Miyoshi;
- a dimethicone/disodium stearoyl glutamate treatment, for instance the SA/NAI surface treatment sold by Miyoshi;
- a microcrystalline cellulose and carboxymethylcell'ulose treatment, for instance the AC surface treatment sold by Daito;
- an acrylate copolymer treatment, for instance the APD surface treatment sold by Daito;
- a sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine treatment, for instance the ASL treatment sold by Daito; and
- a sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine/isopropyl titanium
triisostearate treatment, for instance the ASL treatment sold by Daito.
Amphiphilic agent (s) can be bound to particles ionically with metal salt or hydroxide whose metal can be selected from Mg, Al, Ca, Zn, for instance, aluminum hydroxide and magnesium chloride.
The treatment by disodium stearoyl glutamate (and) aluminum hydroxide is more preferable.
Other treatments with a sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine, or a sodium dilauramidoglutamide lysine/isopropyl titanium
triisostearate, are also more preferable.
The at least one surface-treated pigment may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention in total amounts generally ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, for example, from 0.1% to 25% by weight, or from 1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
The at least one surface-treated filler may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention in total amounts ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, for example, from 0.1% to 30% by weight, or from 1% to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
(3) Oily Phase
The oily phase in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil. Two or more oils may be used.
Here, "Oil" means a fatty compound or substance which is in the form of a liquid or a paste (non-solid), at room temperature (25 °C) under atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) .
As the oils, those generally used in cosmetics can be used alone or in combination thereof. These oils may be volatile or non-volatile.
The oil may be a non-polar or low polar oil such as a hydrocarbon oil, a silicone oil, or the like; a polar oil such as a vegetable or animal oil and an ester oil; or a mixture thereof.
As examples of hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear or branched hydrocarbons such as mineral oil (e.g., liquid paraffin) , paraffin, vaseline or petrolatum, , and the like;
hydrogenated polyisobutene, isoeicosan, and decene/butene
copolymer; and mixtures thereof.
As examples of silicone oils, mention may be made of, for example, linear organopolysiloxanes such as dimethylpolysiloxane,
methylphenylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, and the like; cyclic organopolysiloxanes such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, and the like; and mixtures thereof.
As examples of vegetable oils, mention may be made of, for example, linseed oil, camellia oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, avocado oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, safflower oil, jojoba oil, sunflower oil, almond oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, and mixtures thereof.
As examples of animal oils, mention may be made of, for example, squalene and squalane. As examples of ester oils, mention may be made of, for example, diisopropyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl hexanoate, ethyl laurate, cetyl octanoate, octyldodecyl octanoate, isodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl propionate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl octanoate, 2-ethylhexyl caprylate/caprate, methyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, isohexyl laurate, hexyl laurate, isocetyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl oleate, glyceryl tri (2-ethylhexanoate) , pentaerythrithyl tetra (2-ethylhexanoate) , 2-ethylhexyl succinate, diethyl sebacate, and mixtures thereof.
The. oil may be selected from the group consisting of oils of animal or plant origin, mineral oils, synthetic oils such as ester oils and artificial triglycerides, silicone oils and hydrocarbons, in particular aliphatic hydrocarbons, provided that they are liquid at room temperature.
The amount of the oil may be 5 to 90 wt%, preferably 10 to 80 wt%, more preferably 20 to 70 wt%, and further more preferably 40 to 60 wt%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
The oily phase may comprise at least one fatty alcohol. Two or more fatty alcohols may be used.
The term "fatty alcohol" here means an alcohol having a long aliphatic carbon chain. It is preferable that the fatty alcohol be selected from any pure, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C8-C30 fatty alcohols.
Among the C8-C30 fatty alcohols, C12-C22 fatty alcohols are, for example, used. C16-Ci8 fatty alcohols are more preferable.
Mention may be made among these of lauryl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, undecylenyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidonyl alcohol and erucyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or a mixture thereof (e.g. , cetearyl alcohol) as well as behenyl alcohol, -can be used as a fatty component.
The amount of the higher alcohol may be 0.0001 to 30% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 20% by weight, and more preferably 0.01 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
The oily phase may have a low viscosity. The viscosity can be measured at 25°C with the Rheomat 180 measuring device at 200 rpm (revolutions per minute) . The Rheomat 180 is equipped with a different rotor according to the viscosities, for example with a rotor 3 for the range of viscosities from 0.2 to 4 Pa.s, and with a rotor 4 for the range of viscosities greater than 2 Pa.s. This viscosity is generally measured 10 minutes after the rotation of the rotor has begun. When measured under the conditions indicated above, the viscosity of the oily phase can range, for example, from 1 to 500 Pa.s, and preferably from 10 to 100 Pa.s.
The oily phase may comprise at least one rheological agent.
This rheological agent is capable of thickening and/or gelling the oil phase. It may be present in an amount which is effective for increasing the viscosity of this phase, particularly until a solid gel is obtained, namely a product which does not flow under its own weight.
The rheological agent is advantageously selected from lipophilic gelling agents, organic gellers and mixtures thereof. If the rheological agent is a solid, the particle size of the rheological agent is preferably 300 nm or less, and more preferably 100 nm or less .
The lipophilic gelling agent may be organic or mineral, polymeric or molecular.
As an inorganic lipophilic gelling agent, mention may be. made of optionally modified clays, such as hectorites modified with a Cm to C22 fatty acid ammonium chloride, such as hectorite modified with distearyldimethylammonium chloride.
Mention may also be made of optionally surface-hydrophobicized pyrogenic silica whose particle size is less than 1 urn. It is possible in effect to modify chemically the surface of the silica, by a chemical reaction which brings about a decrease in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, it is possible to substitute the silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: in that case a hydrophobic silica is obtained. The hydrophobic groups may be
- trimethylsiloxyl groups, obtained in particular by treating pyrogenic silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane . Silicas treated in this way are named "silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995) . They are sold, for example, under the names Aerosil R812® by Degussa and CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by Cabot.
- dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, obtained in particular by treating pyrogenic silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethydichlorosilane . Silicas treated in this way are named "silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995) . They are sold for example under the names Aerosil R972®, Aerosil R974® by Degussa and CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by Cabot.
The hydrophobic pyrogenic silica preferably has a particle size,which can be nanometric to micrometric, ranging for example from 5 to 200 nm approximately.
The polymeric organic lipophilic gelling agents are, for example, partly or completely crosslinked elastomeric organopolysiloxanes having a three-dimensional structure, such as those sold under the names KSG6, KSG16 and KSG18 by Shin-Etsu, Trefil E-505C or Trefil E-506C by Dow-Corning, Gransil SR-CYC, SR DMF10, SR-DC556, SR 5CYC gel, SR D F 10 gel, SR DC 556 gel from Grant Industries, SF 1204 and JK 113 by General Electric; ethylcellulose such as those sold under the name Ethocel by Dow Chemical; polyamides such as copolymers of a C36 diacid condensed with ethylene-diamine, with a number-average molecular mass of approximately 6000, such as the compounds sold by Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100, gums, especially silicone gums, such as PDMS having a viscosity >100 000 centistokes, galacto-mannans containing from one to six and better still from two to four hydroxyl groups per saccharide unit, substituted by a saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, such as guar gum alkylated with Ci to C6 alkyl chains and better still Ci to C3 alkyl chains, and mixtures thereof.
As a preferred lipophilic gelling agent, use is made of non-polymeric molecular organic gelling agents, also dubbed organic gellers, which are compounds whose molecules are capable of establishing, between themselves, physical interactions leading to self-aggregation of the molecules with formation of a 3D macromolecular network which is responsible for the gelation of the liquid fatty phase.
A liquid fatty phase in the sense of the invention is a fatty phase which is liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg or 105 Pa) and is composed of one or more fatty substances which are liquid at ambient temperature, also called oils, which are generally mutually compatible.
The macromolecular network may result from the formation of a network of fibrils (owing to stacking or aggregation of organic geller molecules) , which immobilizes the molecules of the liquid fatty phase .
The ability to form this network of fibrils, and hence to gel, depends on the nature (or chemical class) of the organic geller, on the nature of the substituents carried by its molecules for a given chemical class, and on the nature of the liquid fatty phase.
The physical interactions are diverse but exclude co-crystallization. These physical interactions are, in particular, interactions such as self-complementary hydrogen interactions, n interactions between unsaturated rings, dipolar interactions, coordination bonds with organometallic derivatives, and combinations thereof. In general, each molecule of an organic geller. can establish a number of types of physical interaction with a neighbouring molecule. Thus, advantageously, the molecules of the organic gellers according to the invention include at least one group capable of establishing hydrogen bonds and, better still, at least two groups capable of establishing hydrogen bonds, at least one aromatic ring, and better still at least two aromatic rings, at least one or more bonds with ethylenic unsaturation and/or at least one or more asymmetric carbons . The groups capable of forming hydrogen bonds are preferably selected from hydroxyl, carbonyl, amine, carboxylic acid, amide, urea and benzyl groups and combinations thereof.
The organic geller or gellers according to the invention are soluble in the liquid fatty phase after heating to give a transparent homogeneous liquid phase. They may be solid or liquid at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.
The molecular organic geller or gellers which can be used in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are, in particular, those described in the document "Specialist Surfactants", edited by D. Robb, 1997, p. 209-263, Chapter 8 by P. Terech, European applications EP-A-1068854 and EP-A-1086945 or else application WO-A-02/47031.
Among these organic gellers mention may be made in particular of the amides of carboxylic acids, especially tricarboxylic acids, such as cyclohexane-tricarboxamides (see European patent application
EP-A-1068854) , diamides having hydrocarbon chains each containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, for example 6 to 18 carbon atoms, the said chains being unsubstituted or substituted by at least one substituent selected from ester, urea and fluoro groups (see application
EP-A-1086945) , and in particular the diamides resulting from the reaction of diaminocyclohexane, in particular diaminocyclohexane in trans form, and an acid chloride such as, for example,
N, ' -bis (dodecanoyl) -1, 2-diamino-c- yclohexane, the amides of N-acylamino acids such as the diamides resulting from the action of an N-acylamino acid with amines containing 1 to 22 carbon atoms, such as, for example, those described in WO-93/23008, and especially the amides of N-acylglutamic acid in which the acyl group represents a C8 to C22 alkyl chain, such as N-lauroyl-L-glutamic acid dibutyl amide, manufactured or sold by Ajinomoto under the name GP-1, and mixtures thereof.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain from 1 to 50 wt%, preferably 1 to 20 wt%, of a rheological agent, relative to the total weight of the oily phase. Preferably the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may contain from 0.1 to 10 wt%, better still from 1 to 5 wt%, of a rheological agent, relative to the total weight of the composition.
(4) Aqueous Phase
The aqueous medium in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise water. The amount of water may be 70 wt% or less, preferably 5 wt% to 60 wt%, more preferably 10 wt% to 50 wt%, and further more preferably' 20 wt% to 50wt%, relative to the total weight of the composition.
The aqueous medium may further comprise at least one organic solvent for solubilizing the compounds which might not be sufficiently soluble in water. Two or more organic solvent (s) may be used. The organic solvent is preferably water-miscible . As the organic solvent, there may be mentioned, for example, C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; glycols and glycol ethers such as
2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether of diethylene glycol; and aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and phenoxyethanol; analogous products; and mixtures thereof.
The organic solvent may be present in an amount ranging from 1 to 40 wt%, preferably from 5 to 30 wt%, and more preferably from 10 to 30 wt%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
In particular, ethanol may preferably be contained in an amount of 10% by weight or more, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention, in order to have sufficient antiseptic effects. Furthermore, if the form of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a /O emulsion, the irritation due to ethanol would be surely prevented.
According to one embodiment of the present invention, the aqueous phase may comprise at least one water-soluble or latex polymer.
Examples of water-soluble polymers that may be mentioned include: proteins, for instance proteins of plant origin such as wheat proteins and soybean proteins;
proteins of animal origin such as keratin, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins; polymers of cellulose such as hydroxyethylcellulose,
hydroxypropyl-cellulose, methylcellulose and
ethylhydroxyethylcellulose;
acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or
polymethacrylates;
vinyl polymers, for instance polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of maleic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and of crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;
polymers of natural origin, which are optionally modified, such as: gum arabics, guar gum> xanthan derivatives, karaya gum;
alginates and carrageenans;
glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and derivatives thereof;
shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammar resins, elemi gums and copal resins;
deoxyribonucleic acid;
mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate,
polysaccharides such as xanthane gum, pullulan and pectine;
polyaminoacids such as polyglutamic acid; and
mixtures thereof.
The water soluble polymer may be present in an amount ranging from 0.01 to 10 wt%, preferably from 0.1 to 5 wt%, and more preferably from 1 to 2 wt%, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
(5) Amounts of Components
The amounts of the above particles, oily phase and aqueous phase in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention are not limited as long as they form a Pickering emulsion.
It is preferable for the cosmetic composition according to the present invention to satisfy the following formula:
1.5<{B/ (A-C) }<8■ wherein
A denotes a mass amount of the (a) continuous phase;
B denotes a mass amount of the (b) dispersed phases; and
C denotes a mass amount of the (c) particles. The "mass" in the above formula may mean "weight".
If the above formula is not satisfied, the stability of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be impaired. The creamy texture may also be impaired by other ranges. It is more preferable for the cosmetic composition according to the present invention that the ratio of the mass amounts of the (a) continuous phase, (b) dispersed phases, and '(c) particles is 15-35:40-75:3-25, further more preferably 25-35:40-60:10-20. The "mass" in the above may mean "weight".
If the above ratio is not within the above range, the stability or creamy texture of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention may be impaired.
(6) Emulsifier (s)
It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises no emulsifier. However, it is possible that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention can comprise a very small amount, i.e., 1 wt% or less, preferably 0.1 wt% or less, more preferably 0.01 wt% or less, and further more preferably 0.001 wt% or less, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one emulsifier. Two or more emulsifiers may be used. The addition of the emulsifier (s) may improve the stability of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
The' emulsifier may be selected from nonionic, cationic, anionic and amphoteric surfactants. It is preferable that emulsifier is a nonionic surfactant.
According to the present invention, it is preferable that the HLB value of the emulsifier is 10 or less.
It should be noted that the HLB value of a mixture of two or more emulsifiers is determined by the weight average of the HLB values of the emulsifiers.
It is preferable that the non-ionic surfactant having an HLB value of 10 or less be selected from the group consisting of alcohols, alpha-diols, alkylphenols or fatty acids that are polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated and have a fatty chain;
copolymers of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide; condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide with fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides; polyglycerolated fatty amides;
polyethoxylated fatty amines; ethoxylated fatty acid esters of sorbitan; fatty acid esters of sucrose; fatty acid esters of polyethylene glycol; (C6-C24) alkylpolyglycosides ;
N- (C6-C24) alkylglucamine derivatives; amine oxides; and
N- (C10-C14) acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides, provided that they have an HLB value of 10 or less.
Other Components The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one hydrophobic filler and/or at least one hydrophobic pigment .
The particle size of the hydrophobic filler or pigment is preferably 200 nm or more, preferably 300 nm or more, and 10 urn or less, and preferably 5 or less.
The hydrophobic fillers and/or pigments may be surface-treated with at least one hydrophobicizing agent such as silicones.
When they are present, the amount of the hydrophobic fillers and/or pigments may range from 0.1 % to 10% by weight or from 1% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one surface-untreated filler and/or at least one surface-untreated pigment.
The particle size of the . surface-untreated filler or pigment is preferably 200 nm or more, preferably 300 nm or more, and 10 um or less, and preferably 5 um or less.
When they are present, the amount of the surface-untreated fillers and/or pigments may range from 0.01% to 5% by weight or from 0.1% to 2% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention. It is preferable that the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises no surface-untreated particles.
The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may also comprise an effective amount of other agents, known previously elsewhere in oxidation dyeing, such as various common adjuvants, for instance sequestering agents such as EDTA and etidronic acid, UV screening agents, silicones, organomodified silicones (such as with amine groups) , preserving agents, ceramides, pseudoceramides, vitamins or provitamins, for instance panthenol, opacifiers, etc.
The amount of the above other agents may range from 0.01% to 10% by weight or from 0.1% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the cosmetic composition according to the present invention.
EXAMPLES
The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, which however should not be construed as limiting the scope of the present invention.
Example 1 (surface treated pigments) and Comparative Example 1 (non surface treated pigments)
The liquid foundations, in the form of an emulsion in the form of W/0, according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1, shown in Table 1, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1. The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in the Tables are all based on weight percentage.
Table 1
Figure imgf000022_0001
ASL-treated iron oxide: Sodium- Dilauramidoglutamide lysine treated iron oxide (DAITO KASEI) The materials in Phase A were mixed with a discontinous mil for 30 minutes to obtain a pigment dispersion wherein the number-average particle size around 200-300nm. The materials in Phase B were put into the pigment dispersion, mixing at 3000 rpm with MORITZ . And then, the materials in Phase C were put into this mixture to prepare a W/O emulsion.
[Emulsion Stability]
The stability of the emulsion according to Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 was observed by optical microscope. The emulsion according to Example 1 was uniform and had good shape of emulsion particles during the observation. However, the shape of emulsion particles according to Comparative Example 1 was not spherical and the emulsion particles were broken in a few minutes . If uniformity was maintained, it was evaluated as "Good", whereas if.uniformity was not maintained, it was evaluated as "Poor". The results are shown in Table 1.
Examples 2 , Example 3 (with different gellers and amphiphilic surface treated pigments) and Comparative Example 2 (with silicone surface treated pigments)
The make-up bases, in the form of an emulsion, according to Examples 2 and 3, and Comparative Example 2, shown in Table 2, were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 2. The numerical values for the amounts of the components shown in the Tables are all based on "parts by weight".
Table 2
Figure imgf000024_0001
*1: BENTONE 38 VCG (ELEMENTIS)
*2: AEROSIL R 972 (EVONIC DEGUSSA)
*3: NAI pigments (MIYOSHI)
*4: SI-01 pigments (DAI O) *5: A mixture of n-undecane and n-tridecane as prepared in the patent application WO2008/155059
The materials in Phase A2 were mixed with a discontinous mil for 30 minutes to obtain a pigment dispersion wherein the number-average particle size around 200-300nm. This dispersion was mixed with the materials in Phase Al with MORITZ at 2000rpm. The materials in Phase B were put into the mixture of the materials in Phase Al and A2, mixing at 3000 rpm with MORITZ. And then, the materials in Phase C were put into this mixture to prepare a W/O emulsion.
[Emulsion Stability]
The stability of the emulsion according to Examples 2 and 3 as well as Comparative Example 2 was observed by optical microscope. The emulsions according to Example 2 and 3 were uniform, and had good shape of emulsion particles during the observation. However, the shape of the emulsion according to Comparative Example 2 was not spherical and some emulsion particles were broken in 1 minute. If uniformity was maintained, it was evaluated as "Good", whereas if uniformity was not maintained, it was evaluated as "Poor". The results are shown in Table 2.
[Sensory Evaluation]
The sensory evaluation was performed for Example 2 and Comparative Example 2, and it was found that Example 2 is more creamy, less sticky and conforms to the skin better than Comparative Example 2.

Claims

1. A cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil or
oil-in-water emulsion comprising:
a) a continuous phase;
b) a dispersed phase; and
c) particles having a number-average particle size of 200 nm or more, which are surface-treated with at least one amphiphilic agent,
wherein
the particles are present at the interface between the continuous phase and the dispersed phases, and
the composition optionally comprises at least one emulsifier in an amount of 1 wt% or less relative to the total weight of the composition.
2. The cosmetic composition according to Claim 1, wherein the continuous phase is an oily phase, and the dispersed phase is an aqueous phase.
3. The cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 or 2, wherein the particles have been partially surface-treated with the amphiphilic agent (s).
4. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, wherein the amphiphilic agent comprises at least one
hydrophobicized amino acid.
5. The cosmetic composition according to Claim 4, wherein the hydrophobicized amino acid is a glutamic acid derivative or a condensate of at least one glutamic acid derivative and an amino acid.
6. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, wherein the particles comprise at least one inorganic material.
7. The cosmetic composition according to Claim 6, wherein the -inorganic material is metal oxide.
8. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, wherein it satisfies the following . formula:
1.5<{B/ (A-C) }<8 wherein
A denotes a mass amount of the (a) continuous phase;
B denotes a mass amount of the (b) dispersed phases; and C denotes a mass amount of the (c) particles.
9. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, wherein the ratio of the mass amounts of the (a) continuous phase, (b) dispersed phases, and (c) particles is 15-35:40-75:3-25.
10. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 2 to 9, wherein the continuous phase comprises at least one non polar or low polar oil.
11. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 2 to 10, wherein the continuous phase comprises at least one rheological agent .
12. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 2 to 11, wherein the dispersed phases comprise at least one water-soluble
. polymer. ... .
13. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 12, wherein the particles comprise at least one hydrophobic filler
' and/or at least one hydrophobic pigment .
14. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, wherein the composition further comprises at least one surface-untreated filler and/or at least one surface-untreated pigment.
15. The cosmetic composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 14, wherein the emulsifier has an HLB value of 10 or less.
16. A cosmetic process including a step of applying on keratinic materials, in particular skin, and preferably on face skin, a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15.
PCT/JP2010/073475 2010-12-17 2010-12-17 Cosmetic composition WO2012081132A2 (en)

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EP3656444A1 (en) * 2018-11-20 2020-05-27 Johan Engblom Stabilized oil-in-water emulsion
CN112469500A (en) * 2018-06-13 2021-03-09 三菱化学食品株式会社 Oil-in-water pickering emulsion
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CN105228579A (en) * 2013-05-14 2016-01-06 莱雅公司 Cosmetic composition
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CN112469500B (en) * 2018-06-13 2024-07-02 三菱化学株式会社 Oil-in-water Pickering emulsion
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WO2012081132A3 (en) 2012-11-15
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