WO2011117642A2 - A haircare product - Google Patents

A haircare product Download PDF

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Publication number
WO2011117642A2
WO2011117642A2 PCT/GB2011/050596 GB2011050596W WO2011117642A2 WO 2011117642 A2 WO2011117642 A2 WO 2011117642A2 GB 2011050596 W GB2011050596 W GB 2011050596W WO 2011117642 A2 WO2011117642 A2 WO 2011117642A2
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WO
WIPO (PCT)
Prior art keywords
haircare product
extract
hair
haircare
product according
Prior art date
Application number
PCT/GB2011/050596
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French (fr)
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WO2011117642A3 (en
Inventor
Nicola Summer
Original Assignee
International Hair Cosmetics (Uk) Limited
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Publication date
Application filed by International Hair Cosmetics (Uk) Limited filed Critical International Hair Cosmetics (Uk) Limited
Publication of WO2011117642A2 publication Critical patent/WO2011117642A2/en
Publication of WO2011117642A3 publication Critical patent/WO2011117642A3/en

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • A61K8/498Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/671Vitamin A; Derivatives thereof, e.g. ester of vitamin A acid, ester of retinol, retinol, retinal
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/678Tocopherol, i.e. vitamin E
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/92Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
    • A61K8/922Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof of vegetable origin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9794Liliopsida [monocotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/006Antidandruff preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/12Preparations containing hair conditioners

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a product for application to hair. More particularly, the present invention relates to a haircare product.
  • Hair is generally any thread-like growth of the epidermis of a living being. More specifically, hair is a slender, elongate structure, mostly composed of keratins (fibrous, structural proteins), arising by proliferation of cells from the Malpighian layer of the epidermis in mammals (Larousse Dictionary of Science and Technology, 1995).
  • hair is composed of cuboid epithelial cells which become cornified by impregnation with keratin.
  • the outer cortex of hair contains varying amounts of the pigment melanin which determines hair colour.
  • the medulla of the hair may contain air bubbles, and as the number increases with age and melanin production falls off the hair becomes grey. Blood capillaries supply the growing hair with nourishment and remove waste substances.
  • the upper part of the hair projects beyond the epidermis and is kept supple by sebum, an oily secretion produced by sebaceous glands which open into the hair follicle.
  • Sebum contains fatty acids, waxes and steroids, and spreads along the hair and onto the skin where it keeps the follicle free from dust and bacteria, as well as forming a thin waterproof layer on the skin. This not only prevents water loss from the skin but also prevents water entering the skin. (Biological Science 1 & 2, Green et al., Cambridge University Press, 1994).
  • UV light from exposing hair to the sun, can act to damage hair by, for example, initiating reactions between the proteinaceous hair and other chemicals present in hair and on the scalp.
  • Dandruff from flaky skin cells on the scalp, can be unsightly.
  • An aqueous chlorinated environment from swimming in chlorinated swimming pools, can damage hair.
  • Airborne pollution produced by motor vehicles, factories, etc., can act to impart contaminants to hair. It is common for people to dye their hair, e.g. to provide themselves with a particular style or to hide the greying of their hair; hair dyes often contain chemicals which can act to damage hair and affect its appearance. Paints, e.g. from decorating, and other chemicals often come into contact with hair.
  • a common feature of these non-limiting examples of potentially damaging environments for hair is that hair often comes into contact with free radicals.
  • free radicals are formed by the homolytic cleavage of covalent bonds.
  • Homolytic cleavage can be induced by, for example, UV light, energising and breaking a covalent bond.
  • the separate parts formed by homolytic cleavage are highly reactive because they each have an unpaired electron. Generally, each unpaired electron will react with another molecule, thereby starting a radical chain reaction.
  • a radical chain reaction can be divided into three different parts:
  • Initiation A net increase in the number of free radicals. This can be started, for example, by UV light homolytically cleaving a covalent bond.
  • Termination When two free radicals react together, pairing two free electrons, there is a net decrease in the number of free radicals.
  • Free radicals play a part in biological systems. Some free radical reactions are essential to the preservation of life, e.g. in cell signalling. However, some free radical reactions in biological systems can have a negative effect on the preservation of life. For example, the reaction of free radicals with DNA can lead to unwanted mutations in DNA sequences which can ultimately lead to cancers, or other damaging conditions. Furthermore, the reaction of free radicals with hair, for example with the proteinaceous components of hair, can cause damage to hair. Free radicals damage hair by reacting with and breaking inter alia the protein structure (e.g. keratin) of hair. Weak hair types are particularly susceptible to the damage caused by free radicals because they are already weakened compared to normal or average hair.
  • protein structure e.g. keratin
  • the haircare products of the present invention act to reverse the negative effects on hair of the day-to-day environment. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the haircare products of the present invention act to mop-up and mitigate the effects of free-radicals present in hair and on the scalp which are produced as a result of the day-to-day environment. More specifically, the components of the haircare products of the present invention, either alone or in combination, act to mop-up and mitigate the effects of free-radicals present in hair and on the scalp which are produced as a result of the day-to-day environment.
  • a haircare product comprising Camellia Sinesis (Green Tea) extract, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter) extract, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate) and retinyl palmitate (vitamin A palmitate). It is believed that the haircare product of the present application at least addresses some of the problems associated with known products which are used to alleviate and/or mitigate the damage caused to hair, in particular damaged hair, by the day-to-day environment.
  • the haircare product comprises Camellia Sinesis (Green Tea) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt %, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter) extract in 0.015 wt % to 0.055 wt %, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate) in 0.045 wt % to 0.055 wt % and retinyl palmitate (vitamin A palmitate) in 0.045 wt % to 0.055 wt %.
  • Camellia Sinesis Green Tea
  • Butyrospermum Parkii Shea butter
  • the haircare product comprises Camellia Sinesis (Green Tea) extract in 0.005 wt %, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter) extract in 0.05 wt %, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate) in 0.05 wt % and retinyl palmitate (vitamin A palmitate) in 0.05 wt %.
  • Camellia Sinesis Green Tea
  • Butyrospermum Parkii Shea butter
  • tocopheryl acetate vitamin E acetate
  • retinyl palmitate vitamin A palmitate
  • the haircare product comprises Camellia Sinesis (Green Tea) extract in 0.005 wt %, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter) extract in 0.02 wt %, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate) in 0.05 wt % and retinyl palmitate (vitamin A palmitate) in 0.05 wt %.
  • Camellia Sinesis Green Tea
  • Butyrospermum Parkii Shea butter
  • tocopheryl acetate vitamin E acetate
  • retinyl palmitate vitamin A palmitate
  • the haircare product further comprises Spathodea
  • Campanulata (fire tulip) extract further preferably, wherein the haircare product comprises Spathodea
  • the haircare product further comprises Adansonia Digitata (Baobab) extract.
  • the haircare product comprises Adansonia Digitata
  • the haircare product further comprises Phoenix Dactylifera (date) extract.
  • the haircare product comprises Phoenix Dactylifera (date) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt %.
  • the haircare product further comprises Hibiscus Sabdariffa (hibiscus) extract.
  • the haircare product comprises Hibiscus
  • the haircare product further comprises Aframomum Melegueta (African pepper) extract.
  • the haircare product comprises Aframomum Melegueta (African pepper) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt %.
  • the haircare product further comprises Khaya Senegalensis (mahogany wood) extract.
  • the haircare product comprises Khaya Senegalensis (mahogany wood) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt %.
  • the haircare product further comprises Tamarindus Indica (tamarind) extract.
  • the haircare product comprises Tamarindus Indica (tamarind) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0025 wt %.
  • the haircare product further comprises Cyperus Papyrus (papyrus) extract.
  • the haircare product comprises Cyperus Papyrus
  • the haircare product further comprises sodium PCA.
  • the haircare product further comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of:
  • At least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of sodium cocoyl isethionate, stearic acid, decyl glucoside, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and cocamidopropyl betaine;
  • At least one viscosity builder selected from the group consisting of
  • At least one moisturiser wherein the moisturiser is C12-13 alkyi lactate;
  • At least one emollient selected from the group consisting of glycol cetearate, glyceryl stearate and urea;
  • At least one emulsion stabiliser wherein the emulsion stabiliser is magnesium aluminium silicate;
  • pH regulator is citric acid
  • At least one preservative selected from the group consisting of
  • At least one conditioner selected from the group consisting of behentrimonium chloride, centrimonium chloride and polyquaternium-68;
  • At least one anti-dandruff agent selected from the group consisting of decylene glycol, climbazole and myristamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate; at least one fragrance selected from the group consisting of fragr. K/88999, fragr. K/88983, fragr. K/88987, fragr. K/88985 and fragr. K/889002;
  • solubiliser wherein the solubiliser is PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil; a nourisher, wherein the nourisher is panthenol;
  • a restructurer wherein the restructurer is hydrolyzed oat (Avena Sativa) protein;
  • repairer is allantoin
  • UV filter is benzophenone-4;
  • the haircare product is a shampoo, a hair mask, a hair conditioner, a hair active restructurant, a hair pH rebalancer or a scalp fluid.
  • the haircare product is a shampoo and the shampoo is a hydro-revive shampoo, a nutri-restore shampoo, a volume- enhance shampoo, an anti-dandruff shampoo or a deep cleanse shampoo.
  • the haircare product is a hair mask and the hair mask is a hydro-revive hair mask or a nutri-restore hair mask.
  • the haircare product is a conditioner and the conditioner is a hydro-revive conditioner, a nutri-revive conditioner, an anti-dandruff conditioner or a volume-enhance leave-in conditioner.
  • a haircare product with the formulation of any one of formulations 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 , 12, 13 or 14 disclosed in the tables.
  • Camellia sinensis is the species of plant whose leaves and leaf buds are used to produce tea. It is of the genus Camellia, a genus of flowering plants in the family Theaceae. White tea, green tea, oolong, pu-erh tea and black tea are all harvested from this species, but are processed differently to attain different levels of oxidation. Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter) extract
  • Butyrospermum parkii commonly known as shea tree, is a tree indigenous to Africa.
  • the shea fruit consists of a thin, tart, nutritious pulp that surrounds a relatively large, oil-rich seed from which is extracted shea butter.
  • Tocopheryl acetate also known as vitamin E acetate, is often used as a vitamin supplement, and has the molecular formula C 3 iH 52 03 (for 'a' form) (structure from the CAS® registry):
  • This compound is the ester of acetic acid and tocopherol (vitamin E). It is often used in dermatological products such as skin creams.
  • Tocopheryl acetate is used as an alternative to tocopherol itself because the phenolic hydroxyl group is blocked, providing a less acidic product. It is believed that the acetate is slowly hydrolyzed once it is absorbed into the skin, regenerating tocopherol and providing protection against the sun's ultraviolet rays.
  • Retinyl palmitate or vitamin A palmitate, is the ester of retinol (vitamin A) and palmitic acid, with formula C 36 H 6 o0 2 (figure from the CAS® registry):
  • Retinyl palmitate is a synthetic alternative for retinyl acetate in vitamin A supplements, and is available in oily or dry forms. It is a common vitamin supplement, available in both oral and injectable forms for treatment of vitamin A deficiency.
  • Retinyl palmitate is also a constituent of some topically-applied skin care products. After its absorption into the skin, retinyl palmitate is converted to retinol, and ultimately to retinoic acid (the active form of vitamin A present in Retin-A).
  • Campanulata (fire tulip) is commonly known as the African tulip tree or Flame-of-the-forest.
  • the tree has reddish-orange or crimson campanulate flowers. Manufacturing protocol for each formulation:
  • Tables 1 , 2 and 3 detail different formulations according to different embodiments of the present invention.
  • the names of the ingredients, assigned by the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (INCI), in the formulations are given in the left hand column of each table.
  • Each formulation has been assigned a number, e.g. the ingredients of formulation 1 are listed in the column below the heading 1.
  • the amount of each ingredient is provided in weight % (also referred to in this specification as wt %).
  • Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate and Stearic Acid were added and the resultant mixture was stirred relatively slowly until the mixture was uniform.
  • uniform it is meant that, prior to stirring, the mixture was a liquid solution with floating particles of a solid (e.g. Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate); when the temperature was increased the particles melted and a uniform emulsion was formed, i.e. all ingredients fully melted.
  • fully melted it is meant that substantially all of the solid starting components melted and formed an emulsion.
  • Glycol Cetearate and Behenyl Alcohol were added and the resultant mixture was stirred relatively slowly until the mixture was uniform and all ingredients fully melted.
  • Decyl Glucoside, C12-13 Alkyl Lactate and PEG-150 Distearate were added and the resultant mixture was stirred relatively slowly until the mixture was uniform and all ingredients fully melted.
  • Citric Acid was then added and the resultant mixture allowed to cool.
  • Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract Spathodea Campanulata Flower Extract, Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract, Phoenix Dactylifera (Date) Fruit Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract,
  • PEG-150 Distearate was added and the resultant mixture stirred until all ingredients were fully melted.
  • Centrimonium Chloride was added, resulting in the formation of an emulsion.
  • the resultant mixture was stirred until thick and uniform, i.e. an emulsion was formed.
  • Citric Acid was added and the resultant mixture stirred and permitted to cool.
  • Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone along with the following, where required (i.e. in accordance with the particular formulation): Fragr. K/88999, Fragr. K/88983, Fragr. K/88987, Fragr. K/88985 and/or Fragr. K/89002.
  • the resultant mixture was stirred until uniform, i.e. until substantially all of the liquids are incorporated into a creamy emulsion.
  • Citric Acid Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Spathodea Campanulata Flower Extract, Khaya
  • Senegalensis Wood Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate and Sodium PCA were then added and the resultant mixture stirred until uniform, i.e. until substantially all of the constituents of the mixture were solubilised.
  • Dactylifera (Date) Fruit Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Hydrolyzed Oat (Avena Sativa) Protein, Allantoin and Benzophenone-4.
  • the resultant mixture was stirred until uniform, i.e. the liquids were solubilised.
  • PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and, where required (i.e. in accordance with each particular formulation) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Fragr. K/88987 and Fragr. K/88985 were pre-mixed to form a pre-mixture.
  • the pre-mixture was stirred from a turbid mixture until clear.
  • the pre-mixture was then added to the resultant mixture in the vessel and the resultant mixture stirred until uniform; after addition of the pre-mixture, the solution became hazy, the hazy mixture was stirred until it became clear.
  • Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate and Fragr. K/89002 were pre-mixed and stirred from a turbid mixture to a clear mixture.
  • the pre-mix formulation was then added to the mixture in the vessel and the resultant mixture stirred until uniform; after addition of the pre-mixture, the solution became hazy, the hazy mixture was stirred until it became clear.
  • Butyrospermum Parkii Shea butter extract, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate), retinyl palmitate (vitamin A palmitate) and Spathodea Campanulata (fire tulip) extract. It is believed that this combination of five ingredients provides a synergistic combination which acts against hair damage;
  • this combination of ingredients provides a combination which acts to provide a net decrease in the number of undesirable free radicals in hair and on scalps.
  • this combination of five ingredients react with free radicals and quench undesirable chain reactions which can lead to hair damage.
  • haircare products of the present invention acts to provide softer, more manageable hair, with improved strength and/or gloss, when compared to the effect of known products.
  • Formulation 1 is a hydro-revive shampoo.
  • a hydro-revive shampoo is a shampoo which acts inter alia to moisturise hair, and is particularly useful in moisturising dry hair and coarse hair.
  • Baobab extract is included in this hydro- revive shampoo because Baobab extract contains carbohydrates, which leave the hair moisturised and softer in comparison to before application, and also in comparison to the application of other known shampoos, e.g. the shampoo sold by MASTEY® under the name Traite.
  • Formulation 2 is a hydro-revive mask.
  • a hydro-revive mask is a mask which acts inter alia to moisturise hair.
  • a mask is conditioner which is thicker and creamier compared to standard conditioners, generally with a greater healing effect, which acts inter alia to moisturise hair, and is particularly useful in moisturising dry hair and coarse hair.
  • Baobab extract is included in this hydro- revive mask because Baobab extract contains carbohydrates, which leave the hair moisturised and softer.
  • Formulation 3 is a hydro-revive conditioner.
  • a hydro-revive conditioner is a conditioner which acts inter alia to moisturise hair, and is particularly useful in moisturising dry hair and coarse hair.
  • Baobab extract is included in this hydro- revive conditioner because Baobab extract contains carbohydrates, which leave the hair moisturised and softer.
  • Formulation 4 is a nutri-restore shampoo.
  • a nutri-restore shampoo is a shampoo which acts inter alia to nourish all hair types, and is particularly useful in treating weak and thin hair to make it stronger and thicker in comparison to before application, and also in comparison to the application of other known shampoos, e.g. the shampoo sold by Mastey® under the name Restore.
  • Hibiscus extract is included in this nutri-restore shampoo because Hibiscus extract contains fruit acids, which act to leave hair stronger and smoother.
  • Formulation 5 is a nutri-restore mask.
  • a nutri-restore mask is a mask which acts inter alia to nourish all hair types, and is particularly useful in treating weak and thin hair to make it stronger and thicker.
  • Hibiscus extract is included in this nutri-restore mask because Hibiscus extract contains fruit acids, which act to leave hair stronger and smoother.
  • Formulation 6 is a nutri-restore conditioner.
  • a nutri-restore conditioner is a conditioner which acts inter alia to nourish all hair types, and is particularly useful in treating weak and thin hair to make it stronger and thicker.
  • Hibiscus extract is included in this nutri-restore conditioner because Hibiscus extract contains fruit acids, which act to leave hair stronger and smoother.
  • Formulation 7 is a volume-enhance shampoo.
  • a volume-enhance shampoo is a shampoo which acts inter alia to volumise all hair types, and is particularly useful in volumising fine hair.
  • Date extract is included in this volume-enhance shampoo because date extract contains fruit acids, which act to leave the hair full of body and more resistant to the effects of inter alia combing, chemical treatments and hair straighteners.
  • Formulation 8 is an anti-dandruff shampoo.
  • An anti-dandruff shampoo is a shampoo which acts inier alia to prevent the formation, and alleviate the build up of, dandruff in hair.
  • African pepper extract is included in this anti-dandruff shampoo because is contains anti-bacterial essential oils.
  • the known literature describes the effectiveness of the anti-bacterial essential oils, but the anti-dandruff mechanism has not been proven.
  • Climbazole is included in this anti-dandruff shampoo because it is an anti-dandruff agent.
  • Formulation 9 is an anti-dandruff conditioner.
  • An anti-dandruff conditioner is a conditioner which acts inter alia to prevent the formation, and alleviates the build up of, dandruff in hair. African pepper extract is included in this anti- dandruff conditioner because it contains anti-bacterial essential oils.
  • Formulation 0 is a deep cleanser shampoo.
  • a deep cleanser shampoo is a shampoo which acts inter alia to cleanse and purify hair to a greater degree than standard shampoo.
  • African mahogany wood extract is included in this deep cleanser shampoo because it has astringent properties which act to deeply cleanse hair without damaging the cuticles of hair.
  • Formulation is a volume-enhance leave-in conditioner.
  • a volume-enhance leave-in conditioner is a conditioner which acts inter alia to volumise hair, in particular such a conditioner is used to volumise fine hair.
  • Date extract is included in this volume-enhance leave-in conditioner because date extract contains fruit acids, which act to leave the hair full of body and more resistant to the effects of inter alia combing, chemical treatments and hair straighteners.
  • Formulation 12 is an active restructurant.
  • An active restructurant is a product which acts inier alia to deeply repair hair, and is particularly useful in repairing damaged hair.
  • Oat peptides are included in this active restructurant because they provide proteins to restore original structure to the proteins of damaged hair.
  • Formulation 13 is a pH rebalances
  • a pH rebalancer is a product which acts inter alia to restore the natural pH of hair. Magnesium salts are included in this pH rebalancer because they act to prevent the damage caused to hair by the pH imbalances resulting from chemical treatments.
  • Formulation 14 is a scalp fluid.
  • a scalp fluid is a product which acts inter alia as an active anti-dandruff lotion. African pepper extracts and phospholipids are included in this scalp fluid because they act against the formation of dandruff.
  • Sodium PCA is a moisturising agent and is not essential to the present invention.
  • each of the formulations detailed in the tables were tested on 10 different subjects' hair.
  • the 10 different subjects in each case had different hair types; 4 had fine hair, 4 had treated (e.g. dyed) hair, and 2 had normal hair.
  • the shampoos were applied to the subjects' hair in aqueous conditions, massaged for 1 to 2 minutes and then rinsed away.
  • the conditioners and masks were applied, left for 5 minutes and then rinsed away.
  • the leave-in conditioners, restructurant, rebalancer and scalp fluid were applied and not rinsed away, i.e. left in the hair to leave naturally over a period of time, e.g. 10 minutes to 24 hours, 0 minutes to 12 hours, 10 minutes to 6 hours, 10 minutes to 5 hours, 10 minutes to 4 hours, 10 minutes to 3 hours, 10 minutes to 2 hours, 10 minutes to 1 hours, 10 minutes to 30 minutes or 10 minutes to 20 minutes.
  • half-and-half tests were carried out to compare the effect of the formulations of the present invention with known haircare products, which products are said to have anti-damage effects.
  • a half-and- half test half of a subject's hair is applied with a first product, whilst the other half of the subject's hair is applied with a different product.
  • the formulations of the present invention were compared to known products of Mastey®'s haircare range, Hayashi System®'s 911 haircare range and Kerastase®'s haircare range. In all cases, the formulations of the present invention were found to improve a subject's hair more than the known formulations.
  • each of the formulations of the present invention was found to result in hair which was softer and more manageable than the same hair (i.e. the other half of a subject's hair) applied with known formulations.
  • the treated hair was less oily, lighter and shinier, when compared to the same hair treated with known formulations.
  • the shampoo formulations of the present invention resulted in more foam and the hair was left softer.
  • the conditioner formulations and the mask formulations of the present inventions gave more shine, greater combability and better resistance to hair; after each treatment the hair in each subject was evidently easier to comb and looked shinier and smoother.
  • the leave-in conditioners of the present invention gave less buildup and more gloss.
  • the formulations of the present invention resulted in hair being softer and lighter.
  • the formulations of the present invention resulted in hair being more conditioned and less oily.
  • a subject's hair was clean, soft and manageable. Once dried the hair was shiny, smooth, soft and healthy. During the application a soft creamy lather was produced which was rinsed out easily. In cases of dry hair, the shampoo did not worsen the condition, as can be seen with standard, known shampoos.
  • the conditioners of formulations 3, 6 and 9 were applied on damp hair, left for 3-5 minutes and rinsed thoroughly. The subject's hair was soft and easy to comb after the rinsing and when dried it was shiny, smooth, soft and healthy.
  • the anti-dandruff conditioner of formulation 9 resulted in an evident reduction of dandruff flakes compared to pre-application of the anti-dandruff shampoo of formulation 9; after application there was no worse itching or irritation. On all hair types, the conditioners showed no build-up effect. This is particularly helpful with fine hair types because they are particularly susceptible to buildup.
  • the leave-in conditioner of formulation 1 1 left the hair in good condition in comparison to before application, and also in comparison to the application of other known leave-in conditioners, e.g. the leave-in conditioners sold by MASTEY® under the names HC Formula, LiquidPac and Magnesium. On all hair types, the leave-in conditioner showed no build-up effect. This is particularly helpful with fine hair types because they are particularly susceptible to build-up.
  • the scalp fluid of formulation 14 caused no irritation when applied to sensitised scalps, with a remarkable decrease of flakes.
  • the masks of formulations 2 and 5 leave hair soft, smooth and easier to comb than prior to application of the masks.
  • the active restructurant of formulation 12 was found to improve the body and the strength of the hair to which it was applied.
  • the pH rebalancer of formulation 13 was found to prevent and/or reverse damage caused to hair by chemical treatment, e.g. hair dyes, and to restore the natural pH of hair, even at the cuticle surface.

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Abstract

The present invention relates to a haircare product, in particular a haircare product for treating damaged hair.

Description

Title: A haircare product
Description of Invention The present invention relates to a product for application to hair. More particularly, the present invention relates to a haircare product.
Hair is generally any thread-like growth of the epidermis of a living being. More specifically, hair is a slender, elongate structure, mostly composed of keratins (fibrous, structural proteins), arising by proliferation of cells from the Malpighian layer of the epidermis in mammals (Larousse Dictionary of Science and Technology, 1995).
In more detail, hair is composed of cuboid epithelial cells which become cornified by impregnation with keratin. The outer cortex of hair contains varying amounts of the pigment melanin which determines hair colour. The medulla of the hair may contain air bubbles, and as the number increases with age and melanin production falls off the hair becomes grey. Blood capillaries supply the growing hair with nourishment and remove waste substances. The upper part of the hair projects beyond the epidermis and is kept supple by sebum, an oily secretion produced by sebaceous glands which open into the hair follicle. Sebum contains fatty acids, waxes and steroids, and spreads along the hair and onto the skin where it keeps the follicle free from dust and bacteria, as well as forming a thin waterproof layer on the skin. This not only prevents water loss from the skin but also prevents water entering the skin. (Biological Science 1 & 2, Green et al., Cambridge University Press, 1994).
Hair mostly consists of protein, although, as stated above, there are other components, e.g. melanin which gives hair its colour. Thus, any substance which can react with protein can act to damage hair. 11 050596
It is common for people to care for their hair. In particular, people wash their hair regularly, preferably on a daily basis. Caring for one's hair is beneficial so that inter alia bacteria are washed away. In other words, it is preferable to wash one's hair regularly to maintain personal hygiene. In washing one's hair, it is common to apply a specialised soap called shampoo. It is also common to apply a conditioner to hair after washing so that hair is smoothed.
In addition to bacteria, other undesirable materials can build up in hair as a result of a being's day-to-day environment. Hair can experience numerous different environments, as detailed in the following non-limiting examples. All of these environments can act to damage hair.
UV light, from exposing hair to the sun, can act to damage hair by, for example, initiating reactions between the proteinaceous hair and other chemicals present in hair and on the scalp. The build up of grease, produced by sebaceous glands on the scalp, can act to give hair a dirty appearance. Dandruff, from flaky skin cells on the scalp, can be unsightly. An aqueous chlorinated environment, from swimming in chlorinated swimming pools, can damage hair. Airborne pollution, produced by motor vehicles, factories, etc., can act to impart contaminants to hair. It is common for people to dye their hair, e.g. to provide themselves with a particular style or to hide the greying of their hair; hair dyes often contain chemicals which can act to damage hair and affect its appearance. Paints, e.g. from decorating, and other chemicals often come into contact with hair.
A common feature of these non-limiting examples of potentially damaging environments for hair is that hair often comes into contact with free radicals. Often free radicals are formed by the homolytic cleavage of covalent bonds. Homolytic cleavage can be induced by, for example, UV light, energising and breaking a covalent bond. Through homolytic cleavage, one molecule is separated into two separate parts, each of the separate parts formed by the homolytic cleavage having one free electron. The separate parts formed by homolytic cleavage are highly reactive because they each have an unpaired electron. Generally, each unpaired electron will react with another molecule, thereby starting a radical chain reaction. A radical chain reaction can be divided into three different parts:
(i) Initiation: A net increase in the number of free radicals. This can be started, for example, by UV light homolytically cleaving a covalent bond.
(ii) Propagation: The free radicals produced go on to react with other molecules to form other radicals, but there is no net increase in free radicals.
(iii) Termination: When two free radicals react together, pairing two free electrons, there is a net decrease in the number of free radicals.
Free radicals play a part in biological systems. Some free radical reactions are essential to the preservation of life, e.g. in cell signalling. However, some free radical reactions in biological systems can have a negative effect on the preservation of life. For example, the reaction of free radicals with DNA can lead to unwanted mutations in DNA sequences which can ultimately lead to cancers, or other damaging conditions. Furthermore, the reaction of free radicals with hair, for example with the proteinaceous components of hair, can cause damage to hair. Free radicals damage hair by reacting with and breaking inter alia the protein structure (e.g. keratin) of hair. Weak hair types are particularly susceptible to the damage caused by free radicals because they are already weakened compared to normal or average hair. The damage caused to hair has been detailed inter alia in the following articles: J. Photochem. Photobiol. B., 74, 109-117 (2004); Dermatol. Nurs., 7, 361-369 (1995). On a day-to-day basis, hair comes in contact with different environments which can lead to the formation of free radicals in hair and on the scalp. For example, UV light can energise contaminants in the hair, thereby forming free radicals. In another example, hydrogen peroxide, and related compounds, can be used to bleach hair blonde whilst at the same time generating free radicals in hair and on the scalp. The generation of free radicals causes damage to the hair and scalp.
Although there is currently no multi-purpose haircare product which alleviates the damage caused to hair from the day-to-day environment, a number of formulations are known which are applied to alleviate hair damage. Some known formulations used to treat damaged hair include products sold by Mastey®, Kerastase® and Hayashi System®'s 91 1 range. As will be appreciated, there is a need for new compositions and products, which can be applied to hair and which alleviate the damage caused to hair through the day-to-day environment.
It is believed that the haircare products of the present invention act to reverse the negative effects on hair of the day-to-day environment. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the haircare products of the present invention act to mop-up and mitigate the effects of free-radicals present in hair and on the scalp which are produced as a result of the day-to-day environment. More specifically, the components of the haircare products of the present invention, either alone or in combination, act to mop-up and mitigate the effects of free-radicals present in hair and on the scalp which are produced as a result of the day-to-day environment.
According to a first aspect of the present invention, there is provided a haircare product, comprising Camellia Sinesis (Green Tea) extract, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter) extract, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate) and retinyl palmitate (vitamin A palmitate). It is believed that the haircare product of the present application at least addresses some of the problems associated with known products which are used to alleviate and/or mitigate the damage caused to hair, in particular damaged hair, by the day-to-day environment.
Preferably, wherein the haircare product comprises Camellia Sinesis (Green Tea) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt %, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter) extract in 0.015 wt % to 0.055 wt %, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate) in 0.045 wt % to 0.055 wt % and retinyl palmitate (vitamin A palmitate) in 0.045 wt % to 0.055 wt %.
Further preferably, wherein the haircare product comprises Camellia Sinesis (Green Tea) extract in 0.005 wt %, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter) extract in 0.05 wt %, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate) in 0.05 wt % and retinyl palmitate (vitamin A palmitate) in 0.05 wt %.
Advantageously, wherein the haircare product comprises Camellia Sinesis (Green Tea) extract in 0.005 wt %, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter) extract in 0.02 wt %, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate) in 0.05 wt % and retinyl palmitate (vitamin A palmitate) in 0.05 wt %.
Preferably, wherein the haircare product further comprises Spathodea
Campanulata (fire tulip) extract. Further preferably, wherein the haircare product comprises Spathodea
Campanulata (fire tulip) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt %.
Advantageously, wherein the haircare product further comprises Adansonia Digitata (Baobab) extract.
Preferably, wherein the haircare product comprises Adansonia Digitata
(Baobab) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt %. Further preferably, wherein the haircare product further comprises Phoenix Dactylifera (date) extract.
Advantageously, wherein the haircare product comprises Phoenix Dactylifera (date) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt %.
Preferably, wherein the haircare product further comprises Hibiscus Sabdariffa (hibiscus) extract.
Further preferably, wherein the haircare product comprises Hibiscus
Sabdariffa (hibiscus) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt %.
Advantageously, wherein the haircare product further comprises Aframomum Melegueta (African pepper) extract.
Preferably, wherein the haircare product comprises Aframomum Melegueta (African pepper) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt %.
Further preferably, wherein the haircare product further comprises Khaya Senegalensis (mahogany wood) extract.
Advantageously, wherein the haircare product comprises Khaya Senegalensis (mahogany wood) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt %.
Preferably, wherein the haircare product further comprises Tamarindus Indica (tamarind) extract.
Further preferably, wherein the haircare product comprises Tamarindus Indica (tamarind) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0025 wt %. Advantageously, wherein the haircare product further comprises Cyperus Papyrus (papyrus) extract.
Preferably, wherein the haircare product comprises Cyperus Papyrus
(papyrus) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt %.
Further preferably, wherein the haircare product further comprises sodium PCA. Advantageously, wherein the haircare product further comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of:
at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of sodium cocoyl isethionate, stearic acid, decyl glucoside, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and cocamidopropyl betaine;
at least one viscosity builder selected from the group consisting of
cocamidopropyl betaine, myristyl alcohol, PEG-150 distearate, PEG/PPG-
120/10 trimethylolpropane trioleate and behenyl alcohol;
at least one moisturiser, wherein the moisturiser is C12-13 alkyi lactate;
at least one emollient selected from the group consisting of glycol cetearate, glyceryl stearate and urea;
at least one emulsion stabiliser wherein the emulsion stabiliser is magnesium aluminium silicate;
at least one pH regulator wherein the pH regulator is citric acid;
at least one preservative selected from the group consisting of
methylchloroisothiazoline and methylisothiazoline;
at least one conditioner selected from the group consisting of behentrimonium chloride, centrimonium chloride and polyquaternium-68;
at least one anti-dandruff agent selected from the group consisting of decylene glycol, climbazole and myristamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate; at least one fragrance selected from the group consisting of fragr. K/88999, fragr. K/88983, fragr. K/88987, fragr. K/88985 and fragr. K/889002;
a solubiliser, wherein the solubiliser is PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil; a nourisher, wherein the nourisher is panthenol;
a restructurer, wherein the restructurer is hydrolyzed oat (Avena Sativa) protein;
a repairer, wherein the repairer is allantoin;
a UV filter, wherein the UV filter is benzophenone-4; and,
at least one solvent selected from the group consisting of alcohol denat. water.
Preferably, wherein the haircare product is a shampoo, a hair mask, a hair conditioner, a hair active restructurant, a hair pH rebalancer or a scalp fluid.
Further preferably, wherein the haircare product is a shampoo and the shampoo is a hydro-revive shampoo, a nutri-restore shampoo, a volume- enhance shampoo, an anti-dandruff shampoo or a deep cleanse shampoo. Advantageously, wherein the haircare product is a hair mask and the hair mask is a hydro-revive hair mask or a nutri-restore hair mask.
Preferably, wherein the haircare product is a conditioner and the conditioner is a hydro-revive conditioner, a nutri-revive conditioner, an anti-dandruff conditioner or a volume-enhance leave-in conditioner.
In a further aspect of the present invention, there is provided a haircare product with the formulation of any one of formulations 1 , 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11 , 12, 13 or 14 disclosed in the tables.
Some of the components of the haircare products of the present invention, together with their sources, are set out below.
Camellia Sinesis (Green Tea) extract
Camellia sinensis is the species of plant whose leaves and leaf buds are used to produce tea. It is of the genus Camellia, a genus of flowering plants in the family Theaceae. White tea, green tea, oolong, pu-erh tea and black tea are all harvested from this species, but are processed differently to attain different levels of oxidation. Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter) extract
Butyrospermum parkii, commonly known as shea tree, is a tree indigenous to Africa. The shea fruit consists of a thin, tart, nutritious pulp that surrounds a relatively large, oil-rich seed from which is extracted shea butter.
Tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate)
Tocopheryl acetate, also known as vitamin E acetate, is often used as a vitamin supplement, and has the molecular formula C3iH5203 (for 'a' form) (structure from the CAS® registry):
Figure imgf000010_0001
This compound is the ester of acetic acid and tocopherol (vitamin E). It is often used in dermatological products such as skin creams.
Tocopheryl acetate is used as an alternative to tocopherol itself because the phenolic hydroxyl group is blocked, providing a less acidic product. It is believed that the acetate is slowly hydrolyzed once it is absorbed into the skin, regenerating tocopherol and providing protection against the sun's ultraviolet rays.
Retinyl palmitate (vitamin A palmitate)
Retinyl palmitate, or vitamin A palmitate, is the ester of retinol (vitamin A) and palmitic acid, with formula C36H6o02 (figure from the CAS® registry):
Figure imgf000011_0001
Retinyl palmitate is a synthetic alternative for retinyl acetate in vitamin A supplements, and is available in oily or dry forms. It is a common vitamin supplement, available in both oral and injectable forms for treatment of vitamin A deficiency.
Retinyl palmitate is also a constituent of some topically-applied skin care products. After its absorption into the skin, retinyl palmitate is converted to retinol, and ultimately to retinoic acid (the active form of vitamin A present in Retin-A).
Spathodea Campanulata (fire tulip) extract
Spathodea Campanulata (fire tulip) is commonly known as the African tulip tree or Flame-of-the-forest. The tree has reddish-orange or crimson campanulate flowers. Manufacturing protocol for each formulation:
Tables 1 , 2 and 3 detail different formulations according to different embodiments of the present invention. The names of the ingredients, assigned by the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook (INCI), in the formulations are given in the left hand column of each table. Each formulation has been assigned a number, e.g. the ingredients of formulation 1 are listed in the column below the heading 1. In all of the formulations, the amount of each ingredient is provided in weight % (also referred to in this specification as wt %).
The following processes detail the steps to prepare the formulations detailed in Tables 1 , 2 and 3. In the methods described below, the amounts of each ingredient are given in the tables.
Formulations 1 , 4, 7 and 8
To a vessel, appropriately sized to safely hold the final formulation, Aqua was added and heated to 75Ό. Magnesium Aluminium Sili cate was added and the resultant mixture stirred vigorously for 20-30 minutes.
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate and Stearic Acid were added and the resultant mixture was stirred relatively slowly until the mixture was uniform. By uniform it is meant that, prior to stirring, the mixture was a liquid solution with floating particles of a solid (e.g. Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate); when the temperature was increased the particles melted and a uniform emulsion was formed, i.e. all ingredients fully melted. By fully melted it is meant that substantially all of the solid starting components melted and formed an emulsion. Glycol Cetearate and Behenyl Alcohol were added and the resultant mixture was stirred relatively slowly until the mixture was uniform and all ingredients fully melted.
Decyl Glucoside, C12-13 Alkyl Lactate and PEG-150 Distearate were added and the resultant mixture was stirred relatively slowly until the mixture was uniform and all ingredients fully melted.
Citric Acid was then added and the resultant mixture allowed to cool.
At 35 , the following were added, where required ( i.e. in accordance with each particular formulation): Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Spathodea Campanulata Flower Extract, Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract, Phoenix Dactylifera (Date) Fruit Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract,
Aframomum Melegueta Seed Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Sodium PCA, Decylene Glycol and/or Climbazole. The resultant mixture was stirred until uniform. Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone were added, along with the following, where required (i.e. in accordance with each particular formulation): Fragr. K/88999, Fragr. K/88983, Fragr. K/88987, Fragr. K/88985 and/or Fragr. K/89002. The resultant mixture was stirred until uniform.
Finally, Cocamidopropyl Betaine was added and the resultant mixture stirred until uniform.
Formulations 2, 3, 5. 6 and 9
To a vessel, appropriately sized to safely hold the final formulation, Aqua was added and heated to 75 . Myristyl Alcohol, Beheny I Alcohol and Glyceryl Stearate were added and the resultant mixture stirred until all ingredients were fully melted. C12-13 Alkyl Lactate (where required, i.e. in accordance with the particular formulation) and Behentrimonium Chloride (where required, i.e. in accordance with the particular formulation) were added and the resultant mixture stirred until all ingredients were fully melted.
PEG-150 Distearate was added and the resultant mixture stirred until all ingredients were fully melted.
Centrimonium Chloride was added, resulting in the formation of an emulsion. The resultant mixture was stirred until thick and uniform, i.e. an emulsion was formed.
Citric Acid was added and the resultant mixture stirred and permitted to cool.
At 35 the following were added, where required (i .e. in accordance with the particular formulation): Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Spathodea
Campanulata Flower Extract, Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Aframomum Melegueta Seed Extract,
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Tamarindus Indica Extract, Cyperus Papyrus Stem Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Sodium PCA, Climbazoie and/or Myristamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate. The resultant mixture was stirred until uniform, i.e. until substantially all of the liquids were incorporated into a creamy emulsion.
Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone along with the following, where required (i.e. in accordance with the particular formulation): Fragr. K/88999, Fragr. K/88983, Fragr. K/88987, Fragr. K/88985 and/or Fragr. K/89002. The resultant mixture was stirred until uniform, i.e. until substantially all of the liquids are incorporated into a creamy emulsion.
Formulation 10
To a vessel, appropriately sized to safely hold the final formulation, Decyl Glucoside and PEG/PPG- 20/10 Trimethylolpropane Trioleate were added and stirred slowly to mix the two ingredients. Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate and Fragr. K/88999 were added after mixing and the resultant mixture was stirred until uniform, i.e. the stirring solubilised the fragrance into the ingredients: the solution was first hazy and became clear with stirring.
Aqua was then added and the resultant mixture stirred until uniform, i.e. Aqua made the resultant mixture less concentrated but the solution remained clear.
Citric Acid, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Spathodea Campanulata Flower Extract, Khaya
Senegalensis Wood Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate and Sodium PCA were then added and the resultant mixture stirred until uniform, i.e. until substantially all of the constituents of the mixture were solubilised.
Finally, Cocamidopropyl Betaine was added and the resultant mixture stirred until uniform; the solution remained clear but the viscosity increased relative to prior to addition of Cocamidopropyl Betaine.
Formulations 11 , 12 and 13
To a vessel, appropriately sized to safely hold the final formulation, Aqua and where required (i.e. in accordance with each particular formulation) the following: Polyquaternium-68 (a thick liquid), Cetrimonium Chloride (a liquid), Citric Acid (a powder), Urea (pellets), Methylchloroisothiazolinone (a liquid) and Methylisothiazolinone (a liquid) were added. The resultant mixture was stirred until uniform, i.e. the solids and liquids were all solubilised.
The following were then added, where required (i.e. in accordance with the particular formulation): Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Spathodea
Campanulata Flower Extract, Adansonia Digitata Fruit Extract, Phoenix
Dactylifera (Date) Fruit Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Panthenol, Sodium PCA, Hydrolyzed Oat (Avena Sativa) Protein, Allantoin and Benzophenone-4. The resultant mixture was stirred until uniform, i.e. the liquids were solubilised.
In a separate container, appropriately sized to safely hold a pre-mix formulation, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and, where required (i.e. in accordance with each particular formulation) Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Fragr. K/88987 and Fragr. K/88985 were pre-mixed to form a pre-mixture. The pre-mixture was stirred from a turbid mixture until clear.
The pre-mixture was then added to the resultant mixture in the vessel and the resultant mixture stirred until uniform; after addition of the pre-mixture, the solution became hazy, the hazy mixture was stirred until it became clear.
Formulation 14
To a vessel, appropriately sized to safely hold the final formulation, Aqua, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Spathodea Campanulata Flower Extract, Aframomum Meiegueia Seed Extract, Myristamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, Panthenol, Sodium PCA and Allantoin were added and the resultant mixture stirred until uniform, i.e. until the liquids were solubilised.
In a separate container, appropriately sized to hold a pre-mix formulation, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter),
Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate and Fragr. K/89002 were pre-mixed and stirred from a turbid mixture to a clear mixture.
The pre-mix formulation was then added to the mixture in the vessel and the resultant mixture stirred until uniform; after addition of the pre-mixture, the solution became hazy, the hazy mixture was stirred until it became clear.
Alcohol Denat. was added to the resultant mixture and then final mixture was stirred until uniform and the liquids were solubilised. The function of each formulation is now described:
All of the formulations discussed below, and included in the tables, share five common ingredients, namely Camellia Sinesis (Green Tea) extract,
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter) extract, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate), retinyl palmitate (vitamin A palmitate) and Spathodea Campanulata (fire tulip) extract. It is believed that this combination of five ingredients provides a synergistic combination which acts against hair damage;
particularly, and without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that this combination of ingredients provides a combination which acts to provide a net decrease in the number of undesirable free radicals in hair and on scalps. In more detail, it is believed that this combination of five ingredients react with free radicals and quench undesirable chain reactions which can lead to hair damage.
Application of the haircare products of the present invention, as detailed below, acts to provide softer, more manageable hair, with improved strength and/or gloss, when compared to the effect of known products.
Formulation 1 is a hydro-revive shampoo. A hydro-revive shampoo is a shampoo which acts inter alia to moisturise hair, and is particularly useful in moisturising dry hair and coarse hair. Baobab extract is included in this hydro- revive shampoo because Baobab extract contains carbohydrates, which leave the hair moisturised and softer in comparison to before application, and also in comparison to the application of other known shampoos, e.g. the shampoo sold by MASTEY® under the name Traite. Formulation 2 is a hydro-revive mask. A hydro-revive mask is a mask which acts inter alia to moisturise hair. A mask is conditioner which is thicker and creamier compared to standard conditioners, generally with a greater healing effect, which acts inter alia to moisturise hair, and is particularly useful in moisturising dry hair and coarse hair. Baobab extract is included in this hydro- revive mask because Baobab extract contains carbohydrates, which leave the hair moisturised and softer.
Formulation 3 is a hydro-revive conditioner. A hydro-revive conditioner is a conditioner which acts inter alia to moisturise hair, and is particularly useful in moisturising dry hair and coarse hair. Baobab extract is included in this hydro- revive conditioner because Baobab extract contains carbohydrates, which leave the hair moisturised and softer.
Formulation 4 is a nutri-restore shampoo. A nutri-restore shampoo is a shampoo which acts inter alia to nourish all hair types, and is particularly useful in treating weak and thin hair to make it stronger and thicker in comparison to before application, and also in comparison to the application of other known shampoos, e.g. the shampoo sold by Mastey® under the name Restore. Hibiscus extract is included in this nutri-restore shampoo because Hibiscus extract contains fruit acids, which act to leave hair stronger and smoother.
Formulation 5 is a nutri-restore mask. A nutri-restore mask is a mask which acts inter alia to nourish all hair types, and is particularly useful in treating weak and thin hair to make it stronger and thicker. Hibiscus extract is included in this nutri-restore mask because Hibiscus extract contains fruit acids, which act to leave hair stronger and smoother. Formulation 6 is a nutri-restore conditioner. A nutri-restore conditioner is a conditioner which acts inter alia to nourish all hair types, and is particularly useful in treating weak and thin hair to make it stronger and thicker. Hibiscus extract is included in this nutri-restore conditioner because Hibiscus extract contains fruit acids, which act to leave hair stronger and smoother.
Formulation 7 is a volume-enhance shampoo. A volume-enhance shampoo is a shampoo which acts inter alia to volumise all hair types, and is particularly useful in volumising fine hair. Date extract is included in this volume-enhance shampoo because date extract contains fruit acids, which act to leave the hair full of body and more resistant to the effects of inter alia combing, chemical treatments and hair straighteners.
Formulation 8 is an anti-dandruff shampoo. An anti-dandruff shampoo is a shampoo which acts inier alia to prevent the formation, and alleviate the build up of, dandruff in hair. African pepper extract is included in this anti-dandruff shampoo because is contains anti-bacterial essential oils. The known literature describes the effectiveness of the anti-bacterial essential oils, but the anti-dandruff mechanism has not been proven. Climbazole is included in this anti-dandruff shampoo because it is an anti-dandruff agent.
Formulation 9 is an anti-dandruff conditioner. An anti-dandruff conditioner is a conditioner which acts inter alia to prevent the formation, and alleviates the build up of, dandruff in hair. African pepper extract is included in this anti- dandruff conditioner because it contains anti-bacterial essential oils.
Climbazole is included in this anti-dandruff shampoo because it is an anti- dandruff agent. Formulation 0 is a deep cleanser shampoo. A deep cleanser shampoo is a shampoo which acts inter alia to cleanse and purify hair to a greater degree than standard shampoo. African mahogany wood extract is included in this deep cleanser shampoo because it has astringent properties which act to deeply cleanse hair without damaging the cuticles of hair.
Formulation is a volume-enhance leave-in conditioner. A volume-enhance leave-in conditioner is a conditioner which acts inter alia to volumise hair, in particular such a conditioner is used to volumise fine hair. Date extract is included in this volume-enhance leave-in conditioner because date extract contains fruit acids, which act to leave the hair full of body and more resistant to the effects of inter alia combing, chemical treatments and hair straighteners.
Formulation 12 is an active restructurant. An active restructurant is a product which acts inier alia to deeply repair hair, and is particularly useful in repairing damaged hair. Oat peptides are included in this active restructurant because they provide proteins to restore original structure to the proteins of damaged hair.
Formulation 13 is a pH rebalances A pH rebalancer is a product which acts inter alia to restore the natural pH of hair. Magnesium salts are included in this pH rebalancer because they act to prevent the damage caused to hair by the pH imbalances resulting from chemical treatments.
Formulation 14 is a scalp fluid. A scalp fluid is a product which acts inter alia as an active anti-dandruff lotion. African pepper extracts and phospholipids are included in this scalp fluid because they act against the formation of dandruff.
All of the formulations discussed above, and included in the tables, all contain sodium PCA. Sodium PCA is a moisturising agent and is not essential to the present invention.
All of the formulations discussed above, and included in the tables, all contain aqua. Aqua is a solvent and is not essential to the present invention.
Trials:
With a view to confirming the efficacy of the different embodiments (i.e.
formulations) of the present invention, each of the formulations detailed in the tables were tested on 10 different subjects' hair. The 10 different subjects in each case had different hair types; 4 had fine hair, 4 had treated (e.g. dyed) hair, and 2 had normal hair.
The shampoos were applied to the subjects' hair in aqueous conditions, massaged for 1 to 2 minutes and then rinsed away.
The conditioners and masks were applied, left for 5 minutes and then rinsed away. The leave-in conditioners, restructurant, rebalancer and scalp fluid were applied and not rinsed away, i.e. left in the hair to leave naturally over a period of time, e.g. 10 minutes to 24 hours, 0 minutes to 12 hours, 10 minutes to 6 hours, 10 minutes to 5 hours, 10 minutes to 4 hours, 10 minutes to 3 hours, 10 minutes to 2 hours, 10 minutes to 1 hours, 10 minutes to 30 minutes or 10 minutes to 20 minutes.
In all cases, the subjects commented that their hair was softer and more manageable than compared to prior to application of each particular product. In every case, an improvement in the strength and gloss of each subjects' hair was observed.
On the same subjects, half-and-half tests were carried out to compare the effect of the formulations of the present invention with known haircare products, which products are said to have anti-damage effects. In a half-and- half test, half of a subject's hair is applied with a first product, whilst the other half of the subject's hair is applied with a different product. The formulations of the present invention were compared to known products of Mastey®'s haircare range, Hayashi System®'s 911 haircare range and Kerastase®'s haircare range. In all cases, the formulations of the present invention were found to improve a subject's hair more than the known formulations. In particular, application of each of the formulations of the present invention was found to result in hair which was softer and more manageable than the same hair (i.e. the other half of a subject's hair) applied with known formulations. After application of the haircare products of the present invention, the treated hair was less oily, lighter and shinier, when compared to the same hair treated with known formulations. Compared to the known Mastey® products, e.g. sold under the names Traite, Restore, Enove and Use Me First: the shampoo formulations of the present invention resulted in more foam and the hair was left softer. The conditioner formulations and the mask formulations of the present inventions gave more shine, greater combability and better resistance to hair; after each treatment the hair in each subject was evidently easier to comb and looked shinier and smoother. The leave-in conditioners of the present invention gave less buildup and more gloss.
Compared to the known Kerastase® products, e.g. sold under the names Bain Satin, Bain de force, Masque volumactive, Masquintense, Sublimateur Jour, the formulations of the present invention resulted in hair being softer and lighter.
Compared to the known Hayashi System® 911 products, e.g. sold under the names Conditioner and Texturizing rinse, the formulations of the present invention resulted in hair being more conditioned and less oily.
After application of the shampoos of formulations 1 , 4, 7, 8, 10 a subject's hair was clean, soft and manageable. Once dried the hair was shiny, smooth, soft and healthy. During the application a soft creamy lather was produced which was rinsed out easily. In cases of dry hair, the shampoo did not worsen the condition, as can be seen with standard, known shampoos. The conditioners of formulations 3, 6 and 9 were applied on damp hair, left for 3-5 minutes and rinsed thoroughly. The subject's hair was soft and easy to comb after the rinsing and when dried it was shiny, smooth, soft and healthy. The anti-dandruff conditioner of formulation 9 resulted in an evident reduction of dandruff flakes compared to pre-application of the anti-dandruff shampoo of formulation 9; after application there was no worse itching or irritation. On all hair types, the conditioners showed no build-up effect. This is particularly helpful with fine hair types because they are particularly susceptible to buildup.
The leave-in conditioner of formulation 1 1 left the hair in good condition in comparison to before application, and also in comparison to the application of other known leave-in conditioners, e.g. the leave-in conditioners sold by MASTEY® under the names HC Formula, LiquidPac and Magnesium. On all hair types, the leave-in conditioner showed no build-up effect. This is particularly helpful with fine hair types because they are particularly susceptible to build-up.
The scalp fluid of formulation 14 caused no irritation when applied to sensitised scalps, with a remarkable decrease of flakes.
The masks of formulations 2 and 5 leave hair soft, smooth and easier to comb than prior to application of the masks.
The active restructurant of formulation 12 was found to improve the body and the strength of the hair to which it was applied.
The pH rebalancer of formulation 13 was found to prevent and/or reverse damage caused to hair by chemical treatment, e.g. hair dyes, and to restore the natural pH of hair, even at the cuticle surface.
As can be seen from the above results, it is clear that a product in accordance with the present invention is able to reverse and alleviate the damage caused to hair by its day-to-day environment. When used in this specification and claims, the terms "comprises" and "comprising" and variations thereof mean that the specified features, steps or integers are included. The terms are not to be interpreted to exclude the presence of other features, steps or components.
The features disclosed in the foregoing description, or the following claims, or the accompanying drawings, expressed in their specific forms or in terms of a means for performing the disclosed function, or a method or process for attaining the disclosed result, as appropriate, may, separately, or in any combination of such features, be utilised for realising the invention in diverse forms thereof.

Claims

Claims
1. A haircare product, comprising Camellia Sinesis (Green Tea) extract, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter) extract, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate), retinyl palmitate (vitamin A palmitate) and Spathodea Campanulata (fire tulip) extract.
2. A haircare product according to claim 1 , wherein the haircare product comprises Camellia Sinesis (Green Tea) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt %, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter) extract in 0.015 wt % to 0.055 wt %, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate) in 0.045 wt % to 0.055 wt % and retinyl palmitate (vitamin A palmitate) in 0.045 wt % to 0.055 wt %.
3. A haircare product according to claim 2, wherein the haircare product comprises Camellia Sinesis (Green Tea) extract in 0.005 wt %,
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter) extract in 0.05 wt %, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate) in 0.05 wt % and retinyl palmitate (vitamin A palmitate) in 0.05 wt %.
4. A haircare product according to claim 2, wherein the haircare product comprises Camellia Sinesis (Green Tea) extract in 0.005 wt %,
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter) extract in 0.02 wt %, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E acetate) in 0.05 wt % and retinyl palmitate (vitamin A palmitate) in 0.05 wt %.
5. A haircare product according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the haircare product comprises Spathodea Campanulata (fire tulip) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt %.
6. A haircare product according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the haircare product further comprises Adansonia Digitata (Baobab) extract.
7. A haircare product according to claim 6, wherein the haircare product comprises Adansonia Digitata (Baobab) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt %. 8. A haircare product according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the haircare product further comprises Phoenix Dactylifera (date) extract.
9. A haircare product according to claim 8, wherein the haircare product comprises Phoenix Dactylifera (date) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt %. 0. A haircare product according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the haircare product further comprises Hibiscus Sabdariffa (hibiscus) extract.
11. A haircare product according to claim 10, wherein the haircare product comprises Hibiscus Sabdariffa (hibiscus) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt
%.
12. A haircare product according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the haircare product further comprises Aframomum Melegueta (African pepper) extract.
13. A haircare product according to claim 12, wherein the haircare product comprises Aframomum Melegueta (African pepper) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt %.
14. A haircare product according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the haircare product further comprises Khaya Senegalensis (mahogany wood) extract. 15. A haircare product according to claim 14, wherein the haircare product comprises Khaya Senegalensis (mahogany wood) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt %.
16. A haircare product according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the haircare product further comprises Tamarindus Indica (tamarind) extract.
17. A haircare product according to claim 16, wherein the haircare product comprises Tamarindus Indica (tamarind) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0025 wt %.
18. A haircare product according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the haircare product further comprises Cyperus Papyrus (papyrus) extract.
19. A haircare product according to claim 18, wherein the haircare product comprises Cyperus Papyrus (papyrus) extract in 0.0045 wt % to 0.0055 wt %.
20. A haircare product according to any one of claims 1 to 19, wherein the haircare product further comprises sodium PCA.
21. A haircare product according to any one of claims 1 to 20, wherein the haircare product further comprises at least one selected from the group consisting of:
at least one surfactant selected from the group consisting of sodium cocoyl isethionate, stearic acid, decyl glucoside, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and cocamidopropyl betaine;
at least one viscosity builder selected from the group consisting of
cocamidopropyl betaine, myristyl alcohol, PEG-150 distearate, PEG/PPG- 120/10 trimethylolpropane trioleate and behenyl alcohol;
at least one moisturiser, wherein the moisturiser is C12-13 alkyl lactate;
at least one emollient selected from the group consisting of glycol cetearate, glyceryl stearate and urea;
at least one emulsion stabiliser wherein the emulsion stabiliser is magnesium aluminium silicate;
at least one pH regulator wherein the pH regulator is citric acid; at least one preservative selected from the group consisting of
methylchloroisothiazoline and methylisothiazoline;
at least one conditioner selected from the group consisting of behentrimonium chloride, centrimonium chloride and polyquatemium-68;
at least one anti-dandruff agent selected from the group consisting of decylene glycol, climbazole and myristamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphate; at least one fragrance selected from the group cons/sting of fragr. K/88999, fragr. K/88983, fragr. K/88987, fragr. K/88985 and fragr. K/889002;
a solubiliser, wherein the solubiliser is PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil;
a nourisher, wherein the nourisher is panthenol;
a restructurer, wherein the restructurer is hydrolyzed oat (Avena Sativa) protein;
a repairer, wherein the repairer is allantoin;
a UV filter, wherein the UV filter is benzophenone-4; and,
at least one solvent selected from the group consisting of alcohol denat. water.
22. A haircare product according to any one of claims 1 to 21 , wherein the haircare product is a shampoo, a hair mask, a hair conditioner, a hair active restructurant, a hair pH rebalancer or a scalp fluid.
23. A haircare product according to claim 22, wherein the haircare product is a shampoo and the shampoo is a hydro-revive shampoo, a nutri-restore shampoo, a volume-enhance shampoo, an anti-dandruff shampoo or a deep cleanse shampoo.
24. A haircare product according to claim 22, wherein the haircare product is a hair mask and the hair mask is a hydro-revive hair mask or a nutri-restore hair mask. 25. A haircare product according to claim 22, wherein the haircare product is a conditioner and the conditioner is a hydro-revive conditioner, a nutri-revive conditioner, an anti-dandruff conditioner or a volume-enhance leave-in conditioner.
26. A haircare product with the formulation of any one of formulations 1 , 2, 3,4,5,6,7,8,9, 10, 11, 12, 13 or 14 disclosed in the tables.
27. Any novel combination of features disclosed herein.
PCT/GB2011/050596 2010-03-25 2011-03-24 A haircare product WO2011117642A2 (en)

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CN106726991A (en) * 2016-12-29 2017-05-31 日昇昌科技有限公司 A kind of baobab fruit oil wash shampoo and preparation method thereof
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CN111631983B (en) * 2019-03-01 2023-02-03 广州旭妆生物科技有限公司 Softening and repairing hair care composition and application thereof
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GB2478967B (en) 2016-11-02

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