RU2179844C1 - Lotion composition for washing - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology. SUBSTANCE: lotion composition in question contains sodium laurethsulfate, cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl glucoside, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, moistening additives, 40% solution PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate in propylene glycol, PEG-40 hydronized castor oil, disodium salt ethylenediamine- N, N, N',N'-tetra-acetic acid 2-aqeous food citric acid of the highest and 1st sort, germaben II, perfumery composition, dyestuffs and drinking water, additionally, it contains biologically active additives and triclosane, and distilled glycerol PK-94 as a moistening additive or propylene glycol. The gel foundation created softly purifies facial skin. The use of different combinations of triclosane, allantoin, provitamin B5, plant extracts and plankton enables to apply gels purposefully: for normal, greasy and problematic skin types. EFFECT: higher efficiency of lotion composition. 5cl, 3 tbl, 5 ex

Description

 The invention relates to the field of cosmetology and relates to means for cleansing and washing the skin.

 Known liquid body cleanser, Henkel KbaA, Germany [1].

The tool contains, weight. %: 4-10 non-skin irritating surfactants, which are a mixture of anionic surfactants (C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ -alkyl and Na and Mg oleyl sulfates), betaine surfactants and non-ionic surfactants; 0.5-2 thickeners - esters of fatty acids and polyalkylene glycols or their ethers (for example, PEG distearate containing 100-200 glycol ether groups); 0.5-1 solubilizer of the oil component and dye; 1-2 preservatives - a mixture of Na benzoate, p-hydroxybenzoic acid ester and phenoxyethanol, taken in a weight ratio of 1: (0.5-2) :( 0.5-2). The composition may also contain 0.1-1 wt.% NaCl or MgCl ₂ .

 In the domestic market, the closest to the claimed composition is a foam for washing, manufactured by AOOT "Ural gems" [2].

 Facial cleanser contains sodium lauryl sulfate as an anionic surfactant, coconut oil fatty acid diethanolamides as non-ionic surfactants, refined olive and coconut oils as refining additives, glycerin and urea as moisturizing additives, and PEG oleate as thickeners 400, emulsion waxes, glycerol monostearate, cosmetic stearin, contains triethanolamine, Trilon B, preservatives - 2-bromo-2-nitropropanediol-1,3 and paraform, perfume and water.

 The foam contains a hard surfactant - sodium lauryl sulfate and paraform as a preservative. These components have a severe irritating effect on the skin.

 The objective of the invention was the creation of gels of mild action to cleanse the skin and wash, taking into account the condition and various types of skin: normal, oily, problematic (skin teenagers).

This problem was solved due to the creation of a soft washing base of gels using both traditional types of raw materials: anionic surfactants - sodium laureth sulfate, amphoteric surfactants - cocamidopropyl betaine, solubilizer - PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, moisturizing additives - glycerol distilled PK-94 or propylene glycol, and new types of raw materials: non-ionic surfactants - lauryl glucoside, overdosing additives - PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, thickener - 40% solution of PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate in propylene glycol and additional input composition gels individual combinations of extracts of plants, plankton, allantoin, provitamin B _5, and triclosan (see Table 1).

 The inventive composition for washing, containing sodium laureth sulfate (in terms of 100%), cocamidopropyl betaine (in terms of 100%), lauryl glucoside (in terms of 100%), PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, moisturizing additives, 40% PEG-55 solution propylene glycol oleate in propylene glycol, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, disodium salt of ethylenediamine-N, N, N ', N'-tetraacetic acid 2-aqueous, food citric acid - premium and 1 grade, hermaben II, perfume, dyes and drinking water, characterized in that it additionally contains a biologically act Willow additives and triclosan, as moisturizing additives, contains distilled glycerin PK-94 or propylene glycol.

As biologically active additives, the composition for washing contains: allantoin, provitamin B ₅ (panthenol), water-alcohol extract of chamomile (flowers and leaves), or water-alcohol-glycerin extract of chamomile (flowers and leaves), or propylene glycol extract of chamomile (flowers and leaves), plankton extract, witch hazel extract, aloe extract, water-alcohol extract of calendula, or water-alcohol-glycerin extract of calendula, or propylene glycol extract of calendula, water-alcohol extract of horsetail, or water-alcohol-glycerin th horsetail extract, or propylene glycol extract of horsetail, water-alcohol extract of burdock, or aqueous-alcoholic-glycerine extract of burdock, burdock extract or propylene glycol.

 We give a description of the main raw materials used.

 Anionic surfactant - sodium laureth sulfate. Trademarks: Texaron N 70 (Cognis) and Genapol LRO Paste (Clariant), Germany - raw materials for detergents with high foaming properties in both hard and soft water.

[RO- (CH ₂ —CH ₂ —O) ₂ —SO ₃ ] ^- Na ⁺
R = C ₁₂ / C ₁₄
Amphoteric surfactant - cocamidopropyl betaine, brand name - Genagen CAB (Clariant), Germany.

R - жирные кислоты кокосового масла
Кокамидопропилбетаин - поверхностно-активное вещество, увеличивающее вязкость системы и хорошо совместимое с кожей, особенно в сочетании с анионоактивными ПАВ.Cocamidopropyl Betaine

R - Coconut Oil Fatty Acids
Cocamidopropyl betaine is a surfactant that increases the viscosity of the system and is well compatible with the skin, especially in combination with anionic surfactants.

 Nonionic surfactant - lauryl glucoside, trademark - Plantacare 1200 UP (Cognis, Germany).

Lauryl Glucoside
Alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) - nonionic surfactants (surfactants) are different from the classic nonionic surfactants - ethoxylated fatty alcohols.

Основное отличие заключается в том, что и гидрофобная, и гидрофильная части молекулы АПГ изготовлены из сырья, природные ресурсы которого относительно легко восполнимы. Источниками крахмала, из которого в дальнейшем получают глюкозу, выступают рис, картофель или пшеница, а жирные спирты получают из кокосового или пальмового масла. Продуктом каталитической реакции между глюкозой и жирными спиртами и являются АПГ.

The main difference is that both the hydrophobic and hydrophilic parts of the APG molecule are made from raw materials, the natural resources of which are relatively easily replenished. Sources of starch, from which glucose is subsequently obtained, are rice, potatoes or wheat, and fatty alcohols are obtained from coconut or palm oil. The product of the catalytic reaction between glucose and fatty alcohols are APG.

 When APG is combined with other surfactants, a synergistic effect is observed, which allows to reduce the concentration of the main surfactants and thereby improve the dermatological characteristics of the finished product while maintaining good consumer properties.

 APG has the least irritating effect on the skin compared to other surfactants.

 The combination of three surfactants - sulfoethoxylate, cocamidopropyl betaine and APG - possesses optimal dermatological properties. In addition, this triple combination is characterized by the best foaming [3].

 PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are used as extinguishing and solubilizing additives.

 PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, trade poppies: Cetiol HE (Cognis) or REWODERM ES 90 (Goldschmidt), Germany.

Прозрачное светло-желтое гидрофильное масло с легким специфическим запахом. Преимущественно используется в качестве пережиривающего компонента в поверхностно-активных очищающих препаратах и в качестве солюбилизатора эфирных масел и других активных агентов.

Transparent light yellow hydrophilic oil with a slight specific odor. It is mainly used as an extinguishing component in surface-active cleansing preparations and as a solubilizer of essential oils and other active agents.

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, trademarks - Cremophor RH 40 (BASF) or Tagat R 40 (Goldschmidt), Germany
PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, a non-ionic solvent emulsifier, is used to solubilize perfume compositions and other low-polar substances in water, as well as water-alcohol solutions.

 The thickener - ANTIL 141 liguid (product of Goldschmidt, Germany) - is a 40% solution of PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate in propylene glycol.

The main active ingredient is polyoxyethylene propylene glycol dioleate or according to STFA: PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate
ANTIL 141 liguid (according to the company) is used as a thickening agent for aqueous surfactant solutions such as shampoos, bath foams, detergents and liquid soaps. It is compatible with all standard anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. It can be used in the range of pH 5 to 8, the usual pH for skin cleansing products.

 ANTIL 141 liguid shows good dermatological compatibility, and this property is best manifested in especially mild formulations based on anionic / betaine mixtures.

 In addition to the thickening effect, ANTIL 141 liguid is also a moderate solubilizer. The increase in the solubilizing effect of surfactants helps to obtain clear solutions with a high content of perfume compositions and essential oils.

 Preservative Germaben II is a viscous liquid.

 Dissolved in propylene glycol, the combination of urea diazolidinyl with methyl paraben and propyl paraben is effective against gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, as well as against fermentation and mold. This preservative is especially effective in protecting complex formulations containing proteins, organic acids, and plant extracts.

The basic composition of the claimed composition for washing includes:
- anionic surfactant - sodium laureth sulfate;
- amphoteric surfactant - cocamidopropyl betaine;
- nonionic surfactant - lauryl glucoside;
- extinguishing additive - PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate;
- solubilizer - PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil.

 - thickener - a solution of PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate in propylene glycol.

 The created gel base gently cleanses the skin from dirt and makeup, providing a refreshing effect on the skin of the face.

The use of various combinations of allantoin, provitamin B ₅ , triclosan, plant extracts or plankton allows you to create purifying gels targeted action (see table. 1):
- for normal skin (examples 1, 2 and 5);
- for oily skin (example 3);
- for problem skin (example 4).

 The gels for normal (examples 1, 2 and 5) and oily skin (example 3) are foamed in the palm of your hand with a little water, applied to the face, then washed off with water.

 A small amount of gel for problem skin (example 4) is applied to wet skin, avoiding the eye area, then rinse thoroughly with water. Apply daily morning and evening.

A gentle washing gel (example 1) for normal skin does not contain soap and dyes, gently and effectively cleanses the skin and removes makeup. Allantoin and natural glycerin, which are part of the gel, in combination with provitamin B ₅ restore the skin's natural moisture level and give it smoothness and elasticity. Chamomile extract has a calming and anti-inflammatory effect. The gel contains Trilon B, softening hard water; panthenol and allantoin, which protect the skin from overdrying.

 The cleansing gel for washing normal skin (example 2), thanks to the unique properties of its plankton extract, revitalizes skin cells, gives them energy and vitality.

 The main active regenerating ingredient is plankton extract - GP4G, manufactured by the French company Seporga.

 SEPORGA'S GP4G is a marine active ingredient obtained biologically from specific zooplankton: Artemia Salina.

 It is a colorless or slightly yellowish odorless mobile fluid.

 GP4G consists of phosphorylated nucleotides, which are the main component of diguanosine tetraphosphate, a high-energy substance.

Благодаря наличию высокоэнергетических фосфорилированных связей GP4G имеет удивительный энергетический потенциал. GP4G стимулирует клеточный метаболизм, "пробуждает" старые клетки, является источником гуанина, гуанозина, фосфора - исходных элементов для построения клеток кожи.Diguanosine tetraphosphate

Due to the presence of high-energy phosphorylated bonds, GP4G has an amazing energy potential. GP4G stimulates cell metabolism, “wakes up” old cells, is a source of guanine, guanosine, phosphorus - the starting elements for building skin cells.

 Due to the unique properties of the propylene glycol extract of witch hazel, which is part of the cleansing gel for washing oily skin (example 3), the gel has a light astringent effect, tones and soothes the skin.

 Witch hazel Virginia is a wild shrub plant. Bark, flowering branches, leaves serve as raw materials for extracts in which witch hazel is a main component, a derivative of gallonic acid and glucose. Pharmacological and cosmetic properties of the extract are astringent, tonic and bactericidal activity. Causes narrowing of blood vessels, reduces the secretion of sebaceous glands. It is widely used in creams, cleansing lotions for the face, in hair care products, especially with oily seborrhea [4].

 Washing gel for problem skin (example 4) does not contain soap, gently and deeply cleanses pores from dirt, excess fat and helps reduce the number of bacteria that cause acne and blackheads.

Allantoin, which is part of the gel, in combination with provitamin B ₅ preserves the skin's natural moisture level, protecting it from overdrying and giving it smoothness and elasticity.

Provitamin B ₅ (panthenol) has a healing and moisturizing effect.

 The combination of triclosan with marigold extracts, horsetail and burdock root has a pronounced antibacterial, soothing and refreshing effect.

 Water-alcohol-glycerin extract of marigold flowers (calendula) contains essential oil, carotenoids, carotene, acids - malic, pentadecyl and traces of salicylic. Calendula preparations are used in practical medicine mainly externally for the treatment of purulent wounds, burns, long-term non-healing ulcers, fistulas, with epidermophytosis, eczema, furunculosis, etc. [5].

 Water-alcohol-glycerin extract of burdock root contains inulin polysaccharide, proteins, fat, essential oil, palmitic and stearic acids, sitosterol, tannins and bitter substances. Burdock is very often consumed in various inflammatory processes; for the treatment of skin lesions - eczema, acne, furunculosis, as anti-inflammatory and absorbable in deep pyoderma of the skin [6].

 Water-alcohol-glycerin extract of horsetail contains alkaloids, carotene, vitamin C, malic, oxalic, aconitic acid, silicic acid, calcium salts, proteins, carbohydrates, fatty oil, tannins, bitterness and resins. It is used as an astringent and anti-inflammatory agent for the treatment of long-term non-healing wounds [7].

 The gel for washing (example 5) contains aloe extract, which increases the tolerance (endurance) of the skin, which is often washed, removes the feeling of tightness, softens and moisturizes the skin. A film is formed on the skin that promotes prolonged nutrition of the skin with vitamins contained in aloe extract.

 The polysaccharides contained in aloe extract make it a valuable raw material for the cosmetic and pharmaceutical industries. The presence of polysaccharides explains the softening, moisturizing, film-forming, regenerating and wound healing properties of Aloe vera gel.

Dyes
Based on Instruction 76/768 / EEC, June 1991, Appendix IV-Part 1, all dyes used in gels are approved for use in cosmetics. The nomenclature of dyes is indicated in accordance with the international catalog Color Index (CI) 14720 - tropeolin O, 16185 - acid red 27, 16255 - acid red 18, 17200 - red D&C 33, 19140 - tartrazine, 42051 - patent blue V, 42090 - erioglucin, 47005 - quinoline yellow, 74180 - organic direct turquoise lightfast (see table 2).

 The technology of obtaining compositions for washing.

Gels for washing normal and oily skin (examples 1-3 and 5) are prepared according to one technology: water is loaded into the reactor and heated to a temperature of 80-85 ^o C. Then, allantoin and disodium acid ethylenediamine-N, N, N ', N '-tetraacetic acid 2-aqueous (Trilon B) and stirred until complete dissolution of the products.

Then, cooling is turned on, and when the temperature reaches 50-55 ^o C, lauryl glucoside (in terms of 100%), sodium laureth sulfate (in terms of 100%), cocamidopropyl betaine (in terms of 100%), PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, distilled glycerin are loaded PC-94 or propylene glycol, a dye solution and a 40% solution of PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate in propylene glycol. All loaded raw materials are thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous mass.

 Then, cold water is added in small portions to the reactor with thorough constant stirring.

When the temperature reaches 30-33 ^o C, panthenol, citric acid, plant extracts or plankton extract, preservative and perfume composition are loaded into the reactor.

 Bring water to the required volume, mix thoroughly and take a sample for analysis. The finished mass is analyzed in accordance with the requirements of regulatory documentation.

 Upon receipt of the analysis results, the mass is pumped into the collection and transferred to the packaging.

The gel for washing problem skin (example 4) is prepared as follows: water is loaded into the reactor and heated to a temperature of 80-85 ^° C. Then, allantoin and disodium salt of ethylenediamine-N, N, N ', N'-tetraacetic acid 2-aqueous (Trilon B) and mix from complete dissolution of the products.

Then, cooling is turned on, and when the temperature reaches 50-55 ^o C, lauryl glucoside (in terms of 100%), sodium laureth sulfate (in terms of 100%), cocamidopropyl betaine (in terms of 100%), triclosan solution, dye solution and 40% are loaded a solution of PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate in propylene glycol, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, distilled glycerin PK-94 or propylene glycol and a 40% solution of PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate in propylene glycol. All loaded raw materials are thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous mass.

 Then, cold water is added in small portions to the reactor with thorough constant stirring.

When the temperature reaches 30-33 ^o C, the plant extracts, citric acid solution, preservative, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and perfume composition are loaded into the reactor. Further - similarly to examples 1-3 and 5.

 Experimental batches of cleansing gels for washing the skin have been developed.

 The inventive compositions for washing the skin (gels) have undergone experimental and clinical trials at the test laboratory center of the Institute of Plastic Surgery and Cosmetology of the Ministry of Health of Russia and the Institute of Beauty.

 Experimental studies were carried out on 16 laboratory animals - white outbred male rats weighing 190-225 g. The irritating and sensitizing effect of gels was studied, subacute toxicity with 21 cutaneous applications. Gels do not cause a general toxic effect on the animal organism, as evidenced by the results of a comparative analysis of behavior, dynamics of body weight, state of internal organs, skin, hair of the experimental and control groups.

 At autopsy, no pathological changes in the internal organs were revealed (kidneys, lungs, spleen, heart).

 Clinical trials were conducted on 20 clinically healthy individuals without a burdened allergic history at the age of 14 to 25 years old - for example 4 (gel for problem skin) and aged 20 to 55 years for all other gels (examples 1-3 and 5) .

 The gel for problematic skin is easily applied to moisturized skin with the formation of foam. Well cleanses the skin from surface contamination. The skin after application becomes clean, smooth and becomes matte.

 The course application of the gel for problem skin for 2 weeks helps to eliminate the phenomena of skin irritation, dries acne elements. There is a pronounced decrease in grease.

 Gels (examples 1-3 and 5) have good washing properties, do not irritate the mucous membrane of the eyes and skin, and help cleanse the skin from surface contamination.

 The skin after application becomes soft, smooth, there is no sensation of skin tightening.

Literature
1. Liquid body cleanser. Flussige Korperreinigungsmittel: Application 19813057 Germany, IPC ⁶ A 61 K 7/50 / Pujol Galiano M., Lapena M., Scholz W., Schosser C., Henkel KbaA. - 19813057.0; Declared March 25, 1998; publ. 09/30/1999.

2. RF patent 2111739, cl. A 61 K 7/48, publ. 05/27/1998, BI 15, prototype
3. The journal "Cosmetics and Medicine" 4/98, p.33-39.

 4. Explanatory dictionary of perfumes and cosmetics. M.: Cosmetics and Medicine 2000, volume II, p. 52.

 5. B. G. Volynsky et al. Plants in Medicine, ed. Saratov University, 1989, p.168-169.

 6. B. G. Volynsky et al. Plants in Medicine, ed. Saratov University, 1989, p. 240-241.

 7. B. G. Volynsky et al. Plants in Medicine, ed. Saratov University, 1989, p. 251-252.

Claims (5)

 1. A washing composition containing sodium laureth sulfate (in terms of 100%), cocamidopropyl betaine (in terms of 100%), lauryl glucoside (in terms of 100%), PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, moisturizing additives, 40% PEG- solution 55 propylene glycol oleate in propylene glycol, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, disodium salt of ethylenediamine-N, N, N ', N'-tetraacetic acid 2-aqueous, food grade citric acid and 1 grade, hermaben II, perfume, dyes and drinking water, characterized in that it further comprises biologically active substances bavki and triclosan as wetting additive comprises glycerol distilled PC-94 or propylene glycol. 2. The composition according to p. 1, characterized in that the biologically active additives are selected from the group consisting of plant extracts, plankton extract, allantoin and provitamin B ₅ .  3. The composition according to p. 1 or 2, characterized in that the plant extracts are selected from the group consisting of a water-alcohol extract of chamomile (flowers and leaves) or a water-alcohol-glycerol extract of chamomile (flowers and leaves), or a propylene glycol extract of chamomile (flowers and leaves), witch hazel extract, aloe extract, water-alcohol extract of calendula or water-alcohol-glycerin extract of calendula, or propylene glycol extract of calendula, water-alcohol extract of horsetail, field or water-alcohol-glycerin horsetail extract field or propylene glycol extract of horsetail field, water-alcohol extract of burdock or water-alcohol-glycerol extract of burdock, or propylene glycol extract of burdock.  4. The composition according to any one of paragraphs. 1-3, characterized in that the dyes are selected from the group consisting of 14720 - tropeolin O, 16185 - acid red 27, 16255 - acid red 18, 17200 - red D & C 33, 19140 - tartrazine, 42051 - patent blue V, 42090 - Erioglucin, 47005 - quinoline yellow, 74180 - Organic direct turquoise lightfast. 5. The composition according to any one of paragraphs. 1-4, characterized in that it contains by weight: sodium laureth sulfate (in terms of 100%) - 0.50-3.00%, cocamidopropyl betaine (in terms of 100%) - 1.00-3.00%, lauryl glucoside (in terms of 100%) - 2.00-6.00%, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate - not more than 2.00%, distilled or propylene glycol glycerin - 0.50-2.00%, allantoin - 0.05 -0.50%, provitamin B ₅ - not more than 0.50%, triclosan - not more than 0.50%, 40% solution of PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate in propylene glycol - 0.50-2.00%, water-alcohol chamomile extract (flowers and leaves) or water-alcohol-glycerin chamomile extract (flowers and leaves), or propylene glycol Chamomile extract (flowers and leaves) - not more than 2.00%, plankton extract - not more than 1.00%, witch hazel extract - not more than 2.00%, aloe extract - not more than 2.00%, water-alcohol calendula extract or water-alcohol-glyceric extract of calendula, or propylene glycol extract of calendula - not more than 2.00%, water-alcohol extract of horsetail, or water-alcohol-glyceric extract of horsetail, or propylene glycol extract of horsetail, not more than 2.00% burdock alcohol extract or water-alcohol-glycerin burdock extract, or propylene glycol burdock stitch extract - not more than 2.00%, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil - not more than 1.50%, disodium salt of ethylenediamine-N, N, N ', N'-tetraacetic acid 2-aqueous - 0.0005-0 , 50%, food grade citric acid and 1 grade - 0.02-0.60%, perfume composition - 0.10-1.00%, hermaben II - 0.30-1.50%, drinking water - the rest, dyes - not more than 85 g / t.

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