RU2252013C1 - Purifying washing gel - Google Patents

Abstract

FIELD: cosmetology.

SUBSTANCE: the suggested gel contain sodium laurethsulfate, amphoteric SAS, lauryl glucoside, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, moisturizing additives, allantoin, thickening agents, PEG-40 hydrogenized castor oil, PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate or PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate or methyl glucose dioleate, trilon B, dietary citric acid, conserving agents, perfumery composition and water. As SAS one should apply pantenol, plankton extract and hydrolyzed silk protein, and, also, honey extract or hydrolyzed milk protein. Components should be taken at a certain quantitative ratio. Purifying gel is safe, causes no irritating and allergic action and makes skin to be silky and more elastic.

EFFECT: higher efficiency of application.

1 cl, 1 tbl

Description

The invention relates to the field of cosmetology and relates to means for cleansing and washing the skin. Such products sold on the domestic market include the following products:

- Purifying gel “Purete de Nimfea”, Yves Rocher, France;

- facial cleansing gel with Aloe, Oriflame International;

- cleansing gel “Bio-Calmill”, Yves Rocher, France;

- composition for washing of JSC “Freedom”, Moscow, Russia.

The closest in composition and consumer properties to the claimed is a composition for washing JSC “Cosmetic Association“ Freedom ”, Moscow, Russia [1], containing anionic surfactants - sodium laureth sulfate; amphoteric surfactant - cocoamidopropyl betaine; lauryl glucoside; extinguishing additive - PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate; moisturizing additives - distilled glycerin PK-94 or propylene glycol, biologically active additives - plant extracts, plankton, allantoin, provitamin B ₅ ; antibacterial additive - triclosan; thickener - 40% solution of PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate in propylene glycol; solubilizer - PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil; disodium salt of ethylenediamine-N, N, N ', N'-tetraacetic acid 2-aqueous (Trilon B); pH regulators - food citric acid, premium and 1 grade; preservatives - hermaben II, perfume composition, dyes and drinking water.

Products that play on the strings of “naturalness” are becoming an increasingly significant factor in the global cosmetic market. The word “natural” can now be found on almost every second label. Consumers, in turn, are actively interested in what is written there and what they apply to the skin and hair. To meet the aspirations of consumers, the cosmetics industry and commodity companies are actively looking for appropriate ingredients in the world around them.

The declaration of commitment to nature, orientation to it, is the standard, philosophy and starting point for product development. The concept of “natural” is like the banner of the creator of a product, which indicates that science serves nature, and not vice versa [2].

These principles of creating cosmetic products with the maximum possible use of natural products are guided by the specialists of OJSC “KO“ Freedom ”.

The task of the inventors was to create gels of mild action to cleanse the skin and wash, preserving the natural level of moisture of the skin, tonic, nourish and soften it.

This problem was solved due to the introduction of soft surfactants, including nonionic surfactants — lauryl glucoside, obtained by catalytic reaction from products of natural origin — glucose (from starch) and fatty alcohols (from coconut oil), and biologically active additives: plankton extract or extract honey, hydrolyzed silk or milk protein.

The specialists of the association developed a program of elite cosmetics DIAMANT®, including: a cleansing gel for washing, two shampoos - for frequent use and for weakened hair; two rinsing rinses - for frequent use and for weakened hair; bath foam + cream (two in one); shower gel + cream with silk protein; two types of toilet soap - for dry and sensitive skin and for normal skin; cleansing milk / tonic for dry and sensitive skin; eye cream; lifting cream for dry and sensitive skin; lifting cream for normal and combination skin.

The cosmetic series “Milk and Honey”, including: shower gel, nourishing cream mask, body milk, hand cream, anti-aging cream, also includes cleansing gel for washing.

DIAMANT ^® and "Milk and Honey" gels, similar in composition to surface-active substances, differ mainly in biologically active additives.

Cleansing gel for washing DIAMANT ^®

1. Cleansing gel for washing, containing sodium laureth sulfate, amphoteric surfactants, lauryl glucoside, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, moisturizing additives - distilled glycerin PK-94, allantoin, thickeners, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, trilon B, acid lemon food, premium and 1 grade, preservative, perfume composition and water, characterized in that it additionally contains cocamphodiacetate or sodium cocamphoacetate as amphoteric surfactants, and as a moisturizing agent the product additionally contains 1,2-propylene glycol, panthenol, plankton extract and hydrolyzed silk protein as additional dietary supplements, PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate or PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate as thickeners, additionally contains methyl chloroisoisiazole, methylisothiazolone, magnesium chloride and magnesium nitrate in the following ratio of components, wt.%:

Sodium laureth sulfate (in terms of 100%) 0.50-6.00

Disodium cocoamphodiacetate or sodium

cocoamphoacetate (in terms of 100%) 0.50-7.00

Lauryl glucoside (in terms of 100%) 1.00-8.00

PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate 0.10-4.00

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.10-4.00

Glycerin distilled PK-94 or

1,2-propylene glycol 0.10-4.00

Allantoin 0.05-5.00

Panthenol 0.10-3.00

Plankton Extract 0.10-3.00

Hydrolyzed Silk Protein 0.05-3.00

Propylene glycol and PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate,

or PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate,

or PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate 0.50-4.00

Trilon B 0.0005-1.00

Food citric acid, the highest and I grade 0,02-2,00

Perfume composition 0.10-1.00

Propylene glycol, urea diazolidinyl,

methyl paraben, propyl paraben or

methylchloroisothiazolone, methylisothiazolone,

magnesium chloride, magnesium nitrate 0.30-1.50

Drinking water up to 100

2. The cleansing gel for washing according to claim 1 is characterized in that it additionally contains pearlescent additives - PEG-3 distearate and sodium laureth sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate, glycol distearate and cocamide MEA, or glycol distearate, laureth-4 and cocamidopropyl betaine, or sodium laureth sulfate , glycol distearate, MEA cocamide and Laureth-10, as biologically active additives contains honey extract and hydrolyzed milk protein in the following ratio, wt.%:

PEG-3 distearate and sodium laureth sulfate,

or sodium laureth sulfate, glycol distearate and

cocamide MEA, or glycol distearate, laureth-4 and

cocamidopropyl betaine, or sodium laureth sulfate,

glycol distearate, MEA cocamide and Laureth-10 1.00 -7.00

Honey Extract 0.10-1.00

Hydrolyzed Milk Protein 0.10-1.00

Amphoteric surfactants are selected from the group consisting of disodium

cocoamphodiacetate or sodium cocoamphoacetate.

Disodium cocoamphodiacetate REWOTERIC AM 2C NM (Goldschmidt), Miranol C2M (Rhodia) is an amphoteric organic substance corresponding to the formula

where RCO is a fatty acid isolated from coconut oil.

Belongs to the class of alkyl amides of alkyl amines. It is used as a cleansing water-soluble surfactant and foam stabilizer.

Sodium cocoamphoacetate is a trademark of REWOTERIC AM C (Goldschmidt), Miranol Ultra C32 (Rhodia).

R - coconut oil fatty acids.

These are surfactants that increase the viscosity of the system and are well compatible with the skin, especially in combination with anionic surfactants.

Nonionic surfactants - lauryl glucoside, trademark Plantacare 1200 UP Cognis.

Alkyl polyglucosides (APGs) - nonionic surfactants (surfactants) differ from the classic nonionic surfactants - ethoxylated fatty alcohols

The main difference is that both the hydrophobic and hydrophilic parts of the APG molecule are made from raw materials, the natural resources of which are relatively easily replenished. Sources of starch, from which glucose is subsequently obtained, are rice, potatoes or wheat, and fatty alcohols are obtained from coconut or palm oil. The product of the catalytic reaction between glucose and fatty alcohols are APG.

When APG is combined with other surfactants, a synergistic effect is observed, which allows to reduce the concentration of basic surfactants and thereby improve the dermatological characteristics of the finished product while maintaining good consumer properties.

The combination of three surfactants - sulfoethoxylate, cocamidopropyl betaine and APG - possesses optimal dermatological properties. In addition, the triple combination is characterized by the best foaming [3].

The combination of disodium cocoamphodiacetate, which has the least irritating effect on the skin, and lauryl glucoside, which has the least irritating effect on the mucous membrane of the eyes, gives soft, “sparing” properties to DIAMANT® and “Milk and Honey” gels, thereby creating the best conditions for face wash.

PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate and PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil are used as exfoliating / solubilizing additives.

PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, trademarks: Cetiol HE (Cognis) or TEGOSOFT GS (Goldschmidt), Germany.

Transparent light yellow hydrophilic oil with a slight specific odor. It is mainly used as an extinguishing component in surfactant cleansing preparations and as a solubilizer of essential oils and other active agents.

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, Cremophor RH 40 (BASF) or Tagat R 40 (Goldschmidt) trademarks, Germany.

PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, a non-ionic solvent emulsifier, is used to solubilize perfume compositions and other low-polar substances in water, as well as water-alcohol solutions.

As biologically active additives, cleansing gels for washing contain: allantoin, panthenol, plankton extract and hydrolyzed silk protein (DIAMANT®) or honey extract and hydrolyzed milk protein (“Milk and Honey”).

Allantoin, which is part of the gels, in combination with panthenol, preserves the skin's natural moisture level, protects it from overdrying, gives it smoothness and elasticity, in addition, it has a healing effect.

Thanks to the unique properties of its plankton extract, the cleansing gel for washing DIAMANT® revitalizes skin cells, gives them energy and vitality.

Plankton extract (trademark - SEPORGA S GP4G) is a marine active ingredient obtained biologically by the French company Seporga from a specific zooplankton: Artemia Salina.

GP4G consists of phosphorylated nucleotides, which are the main component of diguanosine tetraphosphate, a high-energy substance.

Due to the presence of high-energy phosphorylated bonds, GP4G has a high energy potential. GP4G stimulates cell metabolism, “wakes up” old cells, is a source of guanine, guanosine, phosphorus - the starting elements for building skin cells.

Hydrolyzed silk protein refers to proteins of plant origin, which, penetrating into the deeper layers of the skin, make up for the deficiency of their native proteins and restore moisture balance in the skin.

“Milk and Honey” Cleansing Cleansing Gel contains honey extract and hydrolyzed milk protein.

Honey Extract - Melhydran® is produced by Laboratories Serobiologiques (Cognis) This is a bioactive cosmetic supplement that is an optimal regulator of skin moisture.

Honey Extract (Melhydran® LS 4420) is a natural moisturizing and emollient complex containing the components that make up natural honey and nectar.

The main components of the honey extract: glucose, fructose, sucrose, maltose, nitrogenoses, electrolytes, trace elements, aromatic substances, lactic acid, gluconic acid.

Melhydran® LS 4420 has a targeted effect on the epidermal stratum corneum:

- prolongs skin hydration (active effect lasts more than 24 hours),

- being a barrier, reduces dehydration of the skin,

- smoothes and restores the microrelief of the skin.

Thus, honey extract enhances the moisturizing and plasticizing role of water, which contributes to:

- maintaining and restoring the flexibility, elasticity and stretch of the skin,

- the skin becomes soft, velvety, turgor and comfortable condition improve,

- the skin acquires optimal properties: transparency, luminescence and brightness.

When using honey extract to care for rough, dry skin, poorly retaining moisture-containing agents, the ability of the horny layers to retain moisture is enhanced, thereby the skin roughness is reduced, it becomes more elastic due to increased cellular bonds, velvety properties appear, the complexion improves, and the condition appears comfort.

Hydrolyzed milk protein contains natural milk polypeptides in active form. They protect the skin from the harmful effects of the environment due to the physiological effects of milk components, such as lactoglobulin, lactalbumin, lactoferrin, lactose and other components.

The thickener is selected from the group consisting of: propylene glycol (s) PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate, PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate.

ANTIL 141 liguid (product of Goldschmidt, Germany) is a 40% solution of PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate in propylene glycol.

The main active ingredient is polyoxyethylene propylene glycol dioleate or according to STFA: PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate.

ANTIL 141 liguid (according to the company) is used as a thickening agent for aqueous surfactant solutions such as shampoos, bath foams, detergents and liquid soaps. It is compatible with all standard anionic, cationic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. It can be used in the range of pH 5 to 8, the usual pH for skin cleansing products.

ANTIL 141 liguid shows good dermatological compatibility, and this property is best manifested in especially mild formulations based on anionic / betaine mixtures.

In addition to the thickening effect, ANTIL 141 liguid is also a moderate solubilizer. The increase in the solubilizing effect of surfactants helps to obtain clear solutions with a high content of perfume compositions and essential oils.

PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate - Glucamate LT, Amerchol.

INSI: PEG-120 Methylglucose Trioleate (and) Propylene Glycol (and) water.

PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate - Glucamate DOE-120, Amerchol.

INSI: PEG-120 Methylglucose Dioleate.

These products are highly effective viscosity regulators for use with numerous anionic surfactants (such as ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth-2 sulfate, triethanolamine lauryl sulfate) and amphoteric surfactants in shampoos and liquid soaps.

Not only do they not irritate the eyes themselves, but when added to surfactant systems they significantly reduce eye irritation.

These thickeners allow you to get uniform in structure cosmetic products with a viscosity optimal for use.

Pearlescent additives are selected from the group consisting of:

PEG-3 distearate and sodium laureth sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate, glycol distearate and cocamide MEA, or glycol distearate, laureth-4 and cocamidopropyl betaine, or sodium laureth sulfate, glycol distearate, cocamide MEA and laureth-10.

PEG-3 distearate and sodium laureth sulfate - Genapol TSM, Clariant.

Sodium laureth sulfate, glycol distearate and MEA cocamide - Genapol PGM, Clariant.

Glycol distearate, laureth-4 and cocamidopropyl betaine - Euperlan PK 3000 AM, (Cognis).

Sodium laureth sulfate, glycol distearate, MEA cocamide and Laureth - 10 Euperlan PK771 Benz, (Cognis).

Cleansing gels for washing DIAMANT® and “Milk and honey” are mixed in the palm of your hand with a small amount of water, applied to the face, then washed off with water.

Thanks to the unique properties of its plankton extract, the cleansing gel for washing DIAMANT® revitalizes skin cells, gives them energy and vitality.

Honey extract and hydrolyzed milk protein were used as biologically active additives in the Cleansing Gel for washing “Milk and Honey”.

This gel can be used to care for rough, dry skin, poorly retaining moisture-containing products. At the same time, the ability of the horny layers to retain moisture is enhanced, thereby the roughness of the skin is reduced, it becomes more elastic due to the strengthening of cellular bonds, the properties of velvety are manifested.

Natural polypeptides of milk in active form protect the skin from the harmful effects of the environment.

Table 1 shows examples of cleansing gel formulations for washing:

Table 1 name of raw materials Cleansing gel for washing option 1 Cleansing gel for washing option 2 Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Sodium laureth sulfate (in terms of 100%) 0.50 6.00 0.50 6.00 Disodium cocoamphodiacetate or sodium cocoamphoacetate (in terms of 100%) 0.50 7.00 0.50 7.00 Lauryl glucoside (in terms of 100%) 1.00 8.00 1.00 8.00 PEG-3 distearate and sodium laureth sulfate, or sodium laureth sulfate, glycol distearate and cocamide MEA, or glycol distearate, laureth-4 and cocamidopropyl betaine, or sodium laureth sulfate, glycol distearate, cocamide MEA and laureth-10 1.00 7.00 PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate 0.10 4.00 0.10 4.00 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.10 4.00 0.10 4.00 Distilled glycerin PK-94 or 1,2-propylene glycol 0.10 4.00 0.10 4.00 Allantoin 0.05 5.00 0.05 5.00 Panthenol 0.10 3.00 0.10 3.00 Propylene glycol and PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate, or PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate, or PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate 0.50 4.00 0.50 4.00 Plankton extract 0.10 3.00 Hydrolyzed Silk Protein 0.05 3.00 - - Honey extract - - 0.10 1.00 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein - 0.10 1.00 Trilon B 0,0005 1.00 0,0005 1.00 Food citric acid, premium and I grade 0.02 2.00 0.02 2.00 Perfumery composition 0.10 1.00 0.10 1.00 Propylene glycol, urea diazolidinyl, methyl paraben, propyl paraben or methyl chloroisotiazolone, methyl isothiazolone, magnesium chloride and magnesium nitrate 0.30 1,50 0.30 1,50 Drinking water up to 100 up to 100

The technology of obtaining cleansing gel for washing DIAMANT®

Water is charged into the reactor and heated to a temperature of 80-85 ° C. Allantoin and Trilon B are then charged and mixed until the products are completely dissolved.

Then, cooling is turned on, and when the temperature reaches 50-55 ° С, lauryl glucoside (in terms of 100%), sodium laureth sulfate (in terms of 100%), disodium cocoamphodiacetate (in terms of 100%), PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, glycerin are loaded distilled PK-94 or 1,2-propylene glycol, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and a 40% solution of PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate in propylene glycol. All loaded raw materials are thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous mass.

Then, cold water is added in small portions to the reactor with thorough constant stirring.

When the temperature reaches 30-33 ° C, panthenol, plankton extract, hydrolyzed silk protein, citric acid, preservative and perfume composition are loaded into the reactor.

Bring water to the required volume, mix thoroughly and take a sample for analysis. The finished mass is analyzed for compliance with regulatory requirements.

Upon receipt of the results of the analysis, the mass is pumped into the collection and transferred to the packaging.

The technology for cleansing gel for washing “Milk and honey”

Water is charged into the reactor and heated to a temperature of 60-70 ° C. Allantoin and Trilon B are then charged and mixed until the products are completely dissolved.

Then, cooling is turned on, and when the temperature reaches 50-55 ° С, lauryl glucoside (in terms of 100%), sodium laureth sulfate (in terms of 100%), disodium cocoamphodiacetate (in terms of 100%), PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, glycerin are loaded distilled PK-94 or 1,2-propylene glycol, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil and a 40% solution of PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate in propylene glycol. All loaded raw materials are thoroughly mixed until a homogeneous mass is obtained, then PEG-3 distearate is added.

Then, cold water is added in small portions to the reactor with thorough constant stirring.

When the temperature reaches 30-33 ° C, panthenol, honey extract, hydrolyzed milk protein, citric acid, preservative and perfume composition are loaded into the reactor.

Bring water to the required volume, mix thoroughly and take a sample for analysis. The finished mass is analyzed for compliance with regulatory requirements.

Upon receipt of the results of the analysis, the mass is pumped into the collection and transferred to the packaging.

Cleansing gels for washing are packed in plastic bottles with a flip-top cap.

Experimental batches of cleansing gels for washing have been developed.

The inventive cleansing gels for washing passed experimental and clinical trials in an accredited test laboratory center of the Institute of Beauty (certificate No. GSEN.RU.TSOA.163 Registered in the State Register No. POCC RU.0001.510381 of July 23, 1998).

Clinical trials conducted on 20 patients for 30 days showed that the gels are harmless, do not have irritating and allergenic effects, do not have general toxic, skin-irritating and sensitizing effects. Cleansing gels for washing differ from the prototype:

- the introduction of cocoa amphodiacetate disodium or sodium cocoa amphoacetate into the formulation, the advantage of which is good tolerance of the mucous membrane of the eyes and, thanks to it, the effectiveness of non-degreasing additives preventing dry skin is increased.

- containing in the composition of proteins and honey extract, which restore the moisture balance in the skin, enhance its elasticity and give it silkiness.

Literature

1. RU 2179844 C1, A 61 K 7/48, 7/00, publ. BI No. 6, 02.27.2002 (prototype).

2. SÕFW-Joumal (Russian version), 6/2002, pp. 4-13.

3. H. Hensen et al. Cosmetic Products Based on Alkyl Polyglycosides, Cosmetics & Medicine, 4/98, pp. 33-39.

Claims (2)

1. Cleansing gel for washing, containing sodium laureth sulfate, amphoteric surfactants, lauryl glucoside, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, moisturizing additives, allantoin, thickeners, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, trilon B, citric acid, preservative methylparaben , a perfume composition and water, characterized in that it additionally contains cocamphodiacetate disodium or cocoamphoacetate disodium as amphoteric surfactants; it contains distill glycerin as a moisturizing additive PC-94 or 1,2-propylene glycol, panthenol, plankton extract and hydrolyzed silk protein as dietary supplements, propylene glycol and PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate or PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate or PEG-120 methyl glucose as thickeners dioleate, as preservatives, additionally contains propylene glycol diazolidinyl urea propyl paraben or methylchloroisothiazolone, methyl isothiazolone, magnesium chloride and magnesium nitrate in the following ratio, wt.%: Sodium laureth sulfate (in terms of 100%) 0.50-6.00 Disodium cocoamphodiacetate or sodium cocoamphoacetate (in terms of 100%) 0.50-7.00 lauryl glucoside (in terms of 100%) 1.00-8.00 PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate 0.10-4.00 PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil 0.10-4.00 Glycerin distilled PK-94 or 1,2-propylene glycol 0.10-4.00 Allantoin 0.05-5.00 Panthenol 0.10-3.00 Plankton Extract 0.10-3.00 Hydrolyzed Silk Protein 0.05-3.00 Propylene glycol and PEG-55 propylene glycol oleate or PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleate or PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate 0.50-4.00 Trilon B 0.0005-1.00 Food citric acid 0.02-2.00 Perfume composition 0.10-1.00 Propylene glycol, urea diazolidinyl, methyl paraben, propyl paraben or methyl chloro- isothiazolone, methylisothiazolone, magnesium chloride, magnesium nitrate 0.30-1.50 Drinking water Up to 100 2. Cleansing gel for washing according to claim 1, characterized in that it further comprises pearlescent additives-PEG-3 distearate and sodium laureth sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate, glycol distearate and cocamide MEA, or glycol distearate, laureth-4 and cocamidopropyl betaine, or sodium laureth sulfate, glycol distearate, MEA cocamide and Laureth-10, as dietary supplements, contains honey extract and hydrolyzed milk protein in the following ratio, wt.%: PEG-3 distearate and sodium laureth sulfate or sodium laureth sulfate, glycol distearate and cocamide MEA, or glycol distearate, laureth-4 cocamidopropyl betaine or sodium laureth sulfate glycol distearate, MEA cocamide and Laureth-10 1.00-7.00 Honey Extract 0.10-1.00 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein 0.10-1.00